INDEX.

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A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Z

A.
Abbey of Veruela, 384.
Abiell, Guillermo, 311;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 507.
AcuÑa, Bishop Luis de, 25 and note, 26.
Adam, Juan, bell-founder, 350.
Agata, Sta., church of, at Barcelona, 312.
Ajimez windows, meaning of term, 269;
examples of, at Segovia, 193;
at Valencia, 269, 270;
at Tarragona, 289;
at Barcelona, 316;
at Gerona, 334, 335;
near Manresa, 340;
at LÉrida, 361.
Alagon, town of, 391.
Alava, Juan de, architect, 86.
AlcalÁ de Henares: church of SS. Just y Pastor, 199;
university, 201;
church of San Ildefonso, 201;
bishop’s palace, 201.
Alcantara, bridge of, 210, 211 note, 230.
Alcazar, the, at Segovia, 187;
at Toledo, 211.
Alfonso, son of Juan II., his monument in the chapel of Miraflores, 42.
——, Rodrigo, architect, 251.
Almansa, 259.
AlmudÉvar, castle of, 362 and note.
Altar-frontals at Valencia, brought from St. Paul’s, London, 267;
in the collegiata at Manresa, 344.
Altars, old, 89, 240, 387.
Amiens, cathedral at, date of, 109.
Ana, Sta., collegiate church of, at Barcelona, 295.
Andino, CristÓbal, worker in iron, 60, note.
Antholin, San, cathedral of, at Palencia. 57;
church of, at Medina del Campo, 161;
at Segovia, 192.
Antigoni, Antonio, his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 509.
Antigua, la, church of, at Valladolid, 69;
at Guadalajara, 202.
Anton, San, church of, at Barcelona, 314.
Aqueduct, Roman, at Segovia, 181;
at Tarragona, 274;
modern, near Tafalla, 402.
Aquitaine and Auvergue, type of church common in, in the twelfth century 415.
Aragon, kingdom of, provinces composing it, 411.
Arandia, Juan de, architect, 71.
Aranjuez, 209, 259.
Architects, Juntas of, at Salamanca, 85, 459;
at Zaragoza, 266 note, 370;
at Gerona, 320, 456;
others, 460.
——, the old Spanish, their main object, 420.
——, Viilanueva’s list of, employed on the cathedral at Gerona, 319, note.
——, Spanish, of the middle ages, 448-464;
Petrus de Deo, his work at San Isidoro, Leon, 448;
Raymundo of Monforte de Lemos, his contract with the Chapter of Lugo, 449;
Mattheus, master of the works at Santiago cathedral, 449;
Raymundo, a “Lambardo,” employed on Urgel cathedral, 450;
Pedro de Cumba, architect of LÉrida cathedral, 451;
Pedro de PeÑafreyta, his successor, 452;
Maestro Ponce, 452;
Jayme Fabre, his works at Barcelona and Palma, 453;
Pedro Zacoma, employed on San Feliu, Gerona, 453;
Juan Garcia de Laguardia, master-mason of Navarre, 454;
Guillermo Çolivella, 454;
Juan Franck, 455;
Lucas Bernaldo de Quintana, his contract for rebuilding the church at Gijon, 455;
Junta of, at Gerona, 456;
Guillermo Sagrera, his works at PerpiÑan and Palma, 457;
Guillermo Vilasolar, his agreement to complete work commenced by Sagrera, 457;
appointment of architect to Calaborra cathedral, 458:
Juan Norman appointed to Seville cathedral, 458;
succeeded by Maestro Jimon, 459;
Juan de Escobedo at Segovia, 459;
Pedro Compte, his works at Valencia, 459;
Anton Egas and Alfonso Rodriguez, their plan for a new cathedral at Salamanca, 459;
Junta of at Salamanca, 459;
Rodrigo Gil de HontaÑon appointed, 460;
report on the state of the works by three architects, 460;
other Juntas of, 460;
Benedicto Oger and Domingo Urteaga, their contracts for erecting churches, 461;
Felipe de BorgoÑa, superintends works at Burgos, 461, note;
Jayme Castayls, statues by, 461, note;
Berengario Portell and Gil de Siloe, works of, 462;
few cases of competition among, 462;
usual practice of, 462;
question between ourselves and them, 463;
clerical architects, 464.
Architects, sculptors, and builders of churches, catalogue of, 471.
Architectural terms supplied by Arabs, 209.
Argenta, Bart., architect, 319.
Arnoldo, Cardinal, 57.
Artesinado work, meaning of, 220, note.
Assas, Manuel de, quoted, 213, notes.
Astorga, walls of, 129;
cathedral, 129.
Avila: situation, 162;
walls and towers, 162;
cathedral, 163;
church of San Vicente, 170;
San Pedro, 176;
church and convent of San TomÁs, 178.
Aya, Martin de la, sculptor, 20, note.
——, Rodrigo, 20, note.
B.
Badajoz, Juan de, architect, 85, 126, 128.
Balaguer, Pedro, architect, 265, 350.
Baldachin, at Gerona, 327.
Barbastro, cathedral of, 362.
Barcelona, 291;
convent and church of San Pablo del Campo, 292;
church of San Pedro de las Puellas, 294;
collegiata of Sta. Ana, 295;
cathedral, 296-307;
chapel of Sta. Lucia, 304;
Bishop’s palace, 307;
church of Sta. Maria del Mar, 307;
Sta. Maria del Pino, 309;
SS. Just y Pastor, 309;
San Jayme, 311;
Sta. Agata, 312;
N. S. del Carmen, 313;
San Miguel, 314;
San Anton, 314;
San GerÓnimo, 314;
Casa Consistorial, 314;
Casa de la Disputacion, 316;
Lonja, 316;
building intended for a cloth-hall, 317;
the Mole, 317.
Barcelonette, 292.
BartolomÉ, Maestro, sculptor, 275, 285 note.
——, San, church of, at Toledo, 229.
Bayonne, cathedral, 7.
Bells, 251, 346, 350.
——, wheel of, at Toledo, 255;
at Barcelona, 306;
at Gerona, 328;
at Manresa, 345.
Benavente: appearance of the town, 102;
church of Sta. Maria del Azogue, 102;
San Juan del Mercador, 103;
ruins of castle, 104.
Benito, San. monastery and church of, at Valladolid, 71, 72.
Bernardo, Archbishop of Toledo, 79.
——, Bishop of Toledo, 233, note.
——, Bishop of SigÜenza, 204.
——, Brother, architect, 275.
——, de Vallfogona, architect, 285, note.
Berruguete, name given to his work, 49, note;
his so-called chef-d’oeuvre, 74;
his work at Toledo, 253.
Betanzos, town of, 136.
Biarritz, 7.
Bidart, church at, 8, note.
Bishops, French, in Spain, 79, 92, 204, 235.
——, Junta of, at Leon, 108.
Blas, San, chapel of, in Toledo cathedral, 251.
Blay, Pedro, architect, 316.
Boffiy, Guillermo, architect, 320, 322;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 512.
Boix, Bernardo, mason, 265.
Bonife, Matias, sculptor, 305, note.
BorgoÑa, Felipe de, architect, 24, 252, 461 note.
——, Juan de, painter, 20, 169 note.
Bricks, employment of, in Spanish buildings, 76, 216, 220, 227, 337, 371, 379, 385, 439;
mostly used by the Moors, 440.
Bridges: at Zamora, 92;
at Toledo, 210, 211 note, 230, 232 and note;
at Tudela, 398 note.
Building materials used in Spain, 438.
Bull-fight at Madrid, 198;
at NÎmes, 199.
Burgos, drive to, 7;
approach to, 10;
cathedral described, 12-34;
churches of San Nicolas, 44;
San Esteban, 46;
San Gil, 50;
San Lesmes, 52;
San Juan, 52;
San Lucas, 52;
San Pablo, 53;
La Merced, 53;
convents of San Juan, 52;
San Pablo, 52;
La Merced, 53;
domestic architecture, 54;
gateway of Sta. Maria, 54;
general character of the cathedral, 426.
Butterfield, Mr., his church of St. Alban, London, 447, note.
C.
Campanas, las, old church near, 402.
Campero, Juan, architect, 86, 184, 186.
Canet, Antonio, his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 506.
Cantarell, Giralt, architect, 343.
Capilla mayor, meaning of, 17.
Capuchins, church of the, at Lugo, 134.
Carlos, architect, 370.
Carmen, N. S. del, church of, at Barcelona, 313;
at Manresa, 345.
Carpentry, Moorish, 443.
Carpintero, MacÍas, architect, 71.
CarreÑo, architect, 160.
Cartagena, Bishop Alfonso de, 26.
Casandro, architect, 163.
Cascante, pilgrimage church at, 376.
Cashel, St. Cormack’s chapel at, an example of an edifice built for permanence, 421.
CastaÑeda, Juan de, 24.
Castayls, Maestro Jayme, sculptor, 275, 285 note, 461 note.
Castile, kingdom of, provinces composing it, 411.
Castles, Spanish, 437.
Catalina, Sta., chapel of, in San Isidoro, Leon, 125;
remarkable paintings in, 127.
Catalogue of dated examples of Spanish buildings, 467;
of architects, sculptors, and builders of churches, 471.
CataluÑa, its architecture and architects, 291;
large churches of, 429.
Cathedrals:
Burgos, 12;
Palencia, 57;
Valladolid, 66;
Salamanca, old, 78;
new, 85;
Zamora, 92;
Leon, 105;
Astorga, 129;
Lugo, 131;88, 93, 174, 229, 276, 294, 362, 365.
Domingo, San, church of, at Lugo, 135.
E.
Ebro, church on the, opposite to Miranda, 9;
valley of the, 391.
Ecclesiologist, the, quoted, 95.
Egas, Anton, architect, 85, 459.
——, Enrique de, architect, 72, 370, 460.
Elne, church at, 337.
Embroidery, carved imitations of, 89, 240.
——, remarkable specimens of, at La CoruÑa, 138;
Valencia, 267;
MondoÑedo, 267;
Manresa, 344;
Durham, 345, note.
England, commerce of, with the south of Spain, 427, note;
perfection of her village churches, 427, note;
scarcity of large town churches in, 429.
Engracia, Sta., church of, at Zaragoza, 374.
Enrique of Narbonne, architect, 319.
“Era,” the, of Augustus CÆsar, 19, note.
Escobedo, Juan de, architect, 459.
Escorial, the, 179.
Escuder, Andres, architect, 298.
Esia, valley of the, 105.
Esteban, San, churches of, at Burgos, 46;
at Segovia, 187.
Eugenio, San, church of, at Toledo, 229.
Eulalia, Sta., chapel of, in Barcelona cathedral, 299.
Exchange at Palma, contract for, 514.
F.
Fabre, Jayme, architect, 297, 453;
his agreement with the sub-Prior and brethren of San Domingo, at Palma, 500.
Faisans, Ile de,

8.
Farm-labourers, Valencian, their costume, 260.
Favariis, Jacobo de, architect, 319.
FÉ, Sta., church of, at Toledo, 229.
Feliu, San, church of, at Gerona, 331.
Ferrandis, Martin, organ-builder, 307.
Figueras, cathedral at, 336.
Florentesi, Micer Domenico Alexandro, sculptor, 179.
Fonda, the, 4.
Font, Juan, architect, 343, 370.
Ford, Mr., on the cathedral of LÉrida, 347.
Forment, Damian, sculptor, 364 and note, 373.
Fornelles, 335.
Fountains Abbey, Chapter-house at, 278, note.
Francesco, San, church of, at Palencia, 63.
Franck, Juan, architect, 265, 455.
Freemasons, belief in peripatetic bodies of, probably erroneous, 464.
French churches, list of the more remarkable, having the same general characteristics as the cathedral at Santiago, 146, note;
copies of, in Spain, 417.
Fuenterrabia, distant view of, 8.
Furniture of Spanish churches, 433.
G.
Gallegan peasantry, wretched state of, 140;
at Santiago, on Sunday, 148.
Gallego, Juan, architect, 185.
Galleries in Spanish churches, 45, 49, 53, 68, 73, 178, 186, 256, 383, 406.
Galtes, CÁrlos, de Ruan, architect, 350.
Garcia, Alvar, architect, 163.
Gateways and walls of old towns:
Burgos, 54;
las Huelgas, 38;
Zamora, 101;
Leon, 109, 127;
Astorga, 129;
Lugo, 135;
Avila, 163;
Segovia, 192;
AlcalÁ, 201;
SigÜenza, 208;
Toledo, 211, 230;
Valencia, 268;
Tarragona, 274;
Gerona, 329;
Hostalrieb, 335;
Veruela, 384;
Olite, 400;
Pamplona, 402.
Gelmirez, Diego, Archbishop of Santiago, 143.
Gerona: cathedral, 318-329;
town walls, 329;
church of San Pedro de los Galligans, 329;
another church, 331;
San Daniel, 331, note;
San Feliu, 331;
domestic remains, 334.
—— cathedral, reports on plan for completion of, 501.
GerÓnimo, San, church of, at Barcelona, 314.
Gil, San, church of, at Burgos, 50.
Gomar, Francisco, sculptor, 288.
Gomez, Alvar, architect, 251.
Gonzalez, Bishop, 108.
Granja, la, palace at, 180.
Granollers, church at, 335.
Grao, port of Valencia, 271.
Gregorio, San, college of, at Valladolid, 71, 75.
Guadalajara:
church of Sta. Maria, 202;
San Miguel, 202;
la Antigua, 202;
palace del Infantado, 203.
Guadalupe, Pedro de, architect, 58.
Guadarrama, Sierra de, 5, 180, 195.
——, village, 195.
Gual, BartolomÉ, architect, 298;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 506.
Guas, Bonifacio de, builder, 185.
——, Juan de, builder, 185.
Guinguamps, Joannes de, his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 510.
Guiniel, Pedro, architect, 199.
H.
Hatton Garden, Italian church in, 45, note.
Heraldry, love of, in Spain, 22, 75, 203, 256, 379.
Herrera, architect, 66, 76, 179.
Honecort, Wilars de, architect, 424.
HoutaÑon, Juan Gil de, architect, 86, 182, 460.
——, Rodrigo Gil de, architect, 182, 201, 460.
Host, perpetual exposition of the, at Leon, 126;
at Lugo, 133.
Hostalrich, 335.
Huelgas, las:
convent of, 34;
village, 35;
church, 35;
solemnities at, 39;
corpse of Juan II. at, 40.
Huesca:
college and palace, 362;
cathedral, 363;
church of San Pedro, 365;
San Martin, 367;
San Juan, 367.
I.
Ildefonso, San, church of, at AlcalÁ, 201;
chapel of, in Toledo cathedral, 250.
Infantado, palace del, at Guadalajara, 203.
Inns, Spanish, 3.
Inquisition established at Toledo, 217 note, 219 note.
Iron lectern, 50.
—— pulpit, 51, 96.
—— screens, 60, 73, 241, 253, 305, 404.
Irun, church at, 8.
Isabel, Sta., church of, at Toledo, 229.
Isidoro, San, church of, at Leon, 121;
miracles of, legend concerning, 122.
J.
Jaca, cathedral at, 368.
James, St., cathedral of, at Compostella, 141.
——, festival and tomb of the apostle, 157.
Jayme, San, church of, at Barcelona, 311.
Jews, spoliation of, at Avila, 178, note;
conversions and persecution of, at Toledo, 217 note, 219 note;
numerous bodies of them, 221.
Jimon, Maestro, architect, 459.
JoÁnes, Juan, painter, 197, 443.
Joseph, S., chapel of, in the cathedral of Santiago, 147.
Juan, Don, son of Ferdinand and Isabella, his tomb, 179.
—— II., funeral of, 40.
—— II. and Isabel, their monument in the chapel of Miraflores, 42.
——, San, church and convent of, at Burgos, 52;
church at Zamora, 100, note;
at Benavente, 103;
at Segovia, 192;
at Toledo, 256;
at PerpiÑan, 337;
at LÉrida, 347, 360;
at Huesca, 367;
monastery and church near Huesca, 368.
Juni, Juan de, sculptor, 68.
Junquera, la, Parroquia at, 336.
Juntas of architects. See Architects.
Just y Pastor, SS., churches of, at AlcalÁ, 199;
at Barcelona, 309.
L.
Laguardia, Juan Garcia de, “Master-Mason,” 454.
Lambardo, meaning of the term, 450, note.
Lasteyrie, Ferdinand, on votive crowns at Toledo, 212 note.
Lavinia, SeÑor, architect, 106.
Lectern, iron, in San Esteban, Burgos, 50;
brass, in Toledo cathedral, 253.
Leocadia, Sta., church of, at Toledo, 227, 228.
Leon, road to, from Benavente, 105;
cathedral described, 105-121;
church of San Isidoro, 121-128;
chapel of Sta. Catalina, 124;
character of the city, 128;
convent of San Marcos, 128.
Leonardo, San, church of, at Zamora, 100.
LÉrida: the town, 346;
cathedral, 347-359;
fragment of defensive building, 359;
church of San Lorenzo, 359;
San Juan, 360;
Romanesque house, 361;
inn, 361, note;
date of recovery of, from the Moors, 410.
Lesmes, San, church of, at Burgos, 52.
Levi, Samuel, 219 and note, 221.
Light, admission of, in Spanish churches, 34, 49, 81, 82, 87, 111, 129, 134, 152, 179, 183, 186, 300, 369, 403.
Llobet, Martin, stone-cutter, 265.
Lonja (Exchange), the, at Valencia, 270;
at Barcelona, 316.
Loquer, Miguel, sculptor, 305, note.
Lorenzo, San, church of, at Segovia, 192, note;
at LÉrida, 347, 359.
Lucas, San, church of, at Burgos, 52.
Lucia, Sta., chapel of, in Toledo cathedral, 246;
in Barcelona cathedral, 304.
Lugo: wall, 131;
cathedral, 131;
church of the Capuchins, 134;
San Domingo, 135;
walls and fountains, 135.
Luine, San, church of, at Segovia, 191.
Luna, Don Alvaro de, tomb of, and his wife, in Toledo cathedral, 252.
M.
Madrid: entrance to, 195;
palace, 195;
Armeria, 196;
Museo, pictures, 196;
bull-fight, 198.
Magdalena, la, churches of: at Valladolid, 71, 72;
at Zamora, 97;
at Toledo, 226;
at Tarazona, 382;
at Tudela, 397.
Mahomedan buildings in Toledo, list of, 213, note.
Mallorca, influence of an artist of, on mediÆval architecture, 429.
Manresa, situation of, 340;
the Collegiata, 340;
altar-frontal in, 344;
church del Carmen, 345.
Manrique, Bishop of Leon, 107.
Manta, the, described, 271.
Mantilla, instance of the national love for the, 272.
Maravedi, value of, in middle ages, 449, note.
Marcos, San, church of, at Salamanca, 90;
convent at Leon, 128.
Maria, Sta., churches of:
at Burgos, 13;
de las Huelgas, 34;
at Valladolid, 67;
at Zamora, 100;
at Benavente, 102;
at la CoruÑa, 136;
at Guadalajara, 202;
at Toledo, 217;
at Barcelona, 307, 310;
at Cervera, 346;
at Tudela, 391;
at Olite, 398;
de Naranco, near Oviedo, 413.
Martin, San, bridge of, at Toledo, 232;
story concerning, 232, note.
——, churches of:
at Valladolid, 70;
at Salamanca, 91;
at Segovia, 190;
at Huesca, 367.
Martinez, Gregorio, painter, 20, note.
Masons, Spanish, 438.
Matienzo, Garci m.html#page_329" class="pginternal">329;
at Huesca, 365;
at Olite, 400.
Pelayo, D., Bishop of Oviedo, 163.
PeÑafreyta, Pedro de, architect, 349, 452.
Permanence the main object of old Spanish architects, 420;
neglected in England now, 421.
PerpiÑan, capture of, 336, note;
church of San Juan, 337;
old house, 337.
Picture-gallery at Madrid, 196.
Pisa, Francisco de, quoted, 256 note.
Pituenga, Florin de, architect, 163.
Plans of early churches, whence derived, 414.
Plans, original, of MediÆval architects, 85, 303, 460.
Plastering, at Segovia, 192, 194;
Toledo, 217.
Plateresque work, explanation of, 49, note.
Poblet, monastery and church of, 289 and note.
Polido, Pedro, architect, 185.
Ponce, Maestro, 452.
Ponferrada, 130.
Portell, Berengario, architect, 462.
Posada, the, described, 3.
Prescott, historian, quoted, 213, note.
Prie-dieu, 59.
Puerta del Cuarte, Valencia, 269.
—— del Sol, Toledo, 231.
—— de Serranos, Valencia, 269.
—— de Visagra, Toledo, 231.
Pulgar, Hernando del, quoted,

256 note.
Pulpits, iron:
in San Gil, Burgos, 51;
at Durham, 51, note;
in Zamora cathedral, 96.
Q.
Quintana, Lucas Bernaldo de, architect, 455.
R.
Railways, Spanish, 56.
Raymundo, a “Lambardo,” 450.
——, Maestro, of Monforte de Lemos, architect, 131, 449.
Reims, cathedral at, date of, 109.
Reja, meaning of, 17.
Renaissance school in Spain, works of the, little to be admired, 432.
—— work, specimens of:
in San Esteban, Burgos, 49;
cloister at Santiago, 151;
tomb in San TomÁs, Avila, 179;
in SigÜenza cathedral, 205, 207;
in Barcelona cathedral, 305;
in Figueras cathedral, 336;
in collegiata at Manresa, 344;
at LÉrida, 361;
at Zaragoza, 374;
at Veruela, 388;
at Pamplona, 403.
“Restoration,” 27, note;
little practised in Spain, 432.
Reus, 273, 289, 461.
Ribero-Rada, Juan de, architect, 88.
Rodrigo, Archbishop, quoted, 233, notes.
——, Maestro, wood-carver, 252.
Rodriguez, Alfonso, architect, 85, 147, 459.
——, D. Ventura, architect, 404.
——, Gaspar, architect, 60, note.
——, Juan, Canon of Segovia, his account of the cathedral, 182, 489.
——, Jusepe, illuminator, 18, note.
Romanesque work, specimens of:
near Miranda, 9;
at Santiago, 153;
at Tarragona, 278;
at Barcelona, 307;
at Elne, 337;
near Tarrasa, 340;
at Manresa, 341;
at LÉrida, 361;
at Jaca, 368;
at Sta. Cruz de los Seros, 368;
at Veruela, 387;
at Pamplona, 407.
Roman, San, church of, at Segovia, 191;
at Toledo, 216, 224.
Roofing of Spanish churches, 168, 239 and note, 302, 342, 354, 435.
Roque, Maestro, architect, 298.
Round churches, Salamanca, 90;
Segovia, 184.
Ruesga, Juan de, builder, 57 note, 186.
Ruiz, Martin, architect, 88.
S.
Sagrera, Guillermo, architect, 324, 337, 457;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 509;
his contract for the Exchange at Palma, 514.
Salamanca:
arrival at, 78;
the old cathedral, 79;
new cathedral, 85;
walls and dilapidated buildings, 90;
church of San Marcos, 90;
San Martin, San Matteo, 91;
documents relating to the construction of the new cathedral at, 482.
Salas, church at, 367.
SalÓrzano, Martin de, 57, note.
Salvador, San, cathedral of, at Avila, 163.
Sanchez, Martin, wood-carver, 40, 41, note.
——, Pedro, 46, note.
Sancii, architect, 332.
Santa Maria, Bishop Pablo de, account of, 52.
Santiago, church of, at la CoruÑa, 138;
at Toledo, 228;
chapel of, in Toledo cathedral, 252;
chapel of, in Tarazona cathedral, 382.
—— de Compostella, journey to, 140;
situation of the city, 141;
cathedral described, 141-158;
compared with S. Sernin, Toulouse, 145;
festival of S. James, 157;
Mass in the cathedral, 158;
other churches, streets, hospital, 158.
——, warrant of Ferdinand II. concerning cathedral of, 489.
SantiaÑes de, Pravia, church at, 413.
Santillana, Juan de, painter on glass, 42.
Saravia, Rodrigo de, architect, 86.
Saturnino, San, church of, at Pamplona, 406.
Screens in Toledo cathedral, subjects carved on, 495.
Sculpture in Spain, 436;
in modern buildings, 446.
—— of subjects and figures in churches:
Burgos, 18, 20, 28, 30, 31, 33, 42, 47, 52;
Palencia, 63;
Valladolid, 75;
Zamora, 95;
Benavente, 103;
Leon, 115, 116, 119, 120, 125;
Lugo, 134;
la CoruÑa, 137;
Santiago, 151, 154;
Avila, 167, 172, 175;
Segovia, 186, 189;
Toledo, 248-252, 257;
Valencia, 262, 263;
Tarragona, 282, 286;
Barcelona, 294, 306, 310, 315, 316;
LÉrida, 355;
Huesca, 364, 365, 367;
Tarazona, 383;
Tudela, 395, 396, 397, 398;
Olite, 399, 401;
Pamplona, 404, 405, 407.
Sebastian, San, 8;
church of San Vicente at, 9.
Segre, river, 346.
Segovia:
Roman aqueduct, 181;
cathedral, 181;
church of the Templars (Vera Cruz), 184;
convent of El Parral, 185;
the Alcazar, 187;
walls and gates, 187;
church of San Esteban, 187;
San Millan, 187;
San Martin, 190;
San Roman, 191;
San Facundo, 191;
Sta. Trinidad, 191;
San Nicolas, 191;
San Luine, 191;
San Antholin, 192;
San Juan, 192;
San Miguel, 192;
San Lorenzo, 192, note;
specimens of plaster-work, 192, 193;
Moresque tower, 193.
——, memoir of the Canon Juan Rodriguez on the cathedral of, 490.
Sernin, S., church of, at Toulouse, compared with cathedral of Santiago, 145.
Seu, the, at Zaragoza, 369.
Seville, date of its recovery from the Moors, 410.
Siloe, Diego de, 28.
——, Gil de, architect, 22, 42, 43, 462.
SigÜenza:
cathedral, 204;
gardens, 208.
Smith’s work in Spanish churches, 305.
Spain:
the north of, little explored, 1;
drawbacks to travelling in, exaggerated, 1;
fitting season for travelling in, 2;
inns and food, 2;
scenery, 5;
places visited by author, 5;
increased facilities for travelling in, 6;
characteristic of landscapes in, 92;
duration of Visigothic rule in, 409;
duration of Moorish rule in, 409;
Moors and Christians in, 409, 410;
subdivision of the country, 410;
portions of, not conquered by Moors, 410;
states in, in the fifteenth century, 411;
early Moorish and Christian buildings in, 412;
commerce of, with England, 427, note;
sculpture of, 436;
domestic architecture of the middle ages in, 436;
castle s of, 437.
Spanish architects of the middle ages, 448.
—— buildings, catalogue of dated examples of, 467.
Stained glass in church at Miraflores, 42;
in Leon cathedral, 120;
in Avila cathedral, 170;
in Segovia cathedral, 183;
in Toledo cathedral, 248, 254;
in Gerona cathedral, 328;
in Pamplona cathedral, 404.
Steeples, examples of:
Burgos, 26;
las Huelgas, 38;
San Esteban, Burgos, 47;
Palencia, 62, 64;
Valladolid, 68, 70;
Salamanca, 88;
Zamora, 93, 99, 100;
Benavente, 103;
Leon, 114, 127;
Lugo, 134;
la CoruÑa, 137;
Santiago, 146;
Avila, 167, 172, 174;
Segovia, 183, 187, 191, 192;
SigÜenza, 206;
Toledo, 225, 226, 251;
Valencia, 264;
Tarragona, 281;
Barcelona, 302, 310, 312, 314;
Gerona, 321, 325, 333, 339;
Fornelles, 335;
Granollers, 335;
Figueras, 336;
la Junquera, 336;
Elne, 337;
Tarrasa, 340;
Manresa, 342;
Cervera, 346;
LÉrida, 265, 352;
Huesca, 367;
Sta. Cruz de los Seros, 368;
Zaragoza, 266.
Valencia:
arrival at, 260;
cathedral, 261;
the Micalate, 264;
embroidered altar frontals, 267;
walls and gates, 268;
domestic remains, 269;
ajimez windows, 269;
features of the city, 271;
date of its recovery from the Moors, 410.
Valent, BartolomÉ, builder, 265.
Valladolid:
arrival at, 65;
great Plaza and town-hall, 65;
cathedral, 66;
church of Sta. Maria la Antigua, 67;
San Martin, 70;
San Pablo, 71, 74;
San Benito, 71, 72;
la Magdalena, 72, 75;
college of San Gregorio, 71, 75;
of Sta. Cruz, 71;
Moorish archway, 76;
museum, library, university, 76.
Vallbona, monastery and church of, 289 and note.
Vallejo, Juan de, architect, 24.
Valleras, Arnaldo de, architect, 340;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 508.
Vallfogona, Petrus de, his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 504.
Vall-llebrera, Pedro de, architect, 346.
Valmeseda, Juan de, sculptor, 59.
Velasco, Constable, palace of the, at Burgos, 54.
Vergara, 9.
Veruela, ride from Tarazona to, 383;
abbey at, 384.
Vicente, San, churches of: at San Sebastian, 9;
at Zamora, 99; at Avila, 170.
——, his tomb at Avila, 175.
Vilasolar, Guillermo, architect, 457.
Villa-Amil, M., quoted, 95.
Villafranca del Vierzo,

130.
—— de Panades, 273.
Villalba, 180.
Villia Espepa, chancellor of Navarre, monument to him and his wife in Tudela cathedral, 396.
Viollet le Duc, M., value of his writings, 242 note.
Vique, city of, 339.
Visigoths in Spain, remains of their works in Toledo, 214;
votive crowns of their king Reccesvinthus, 212;
duration of their rule, 409.
Visquio, GerÓnimo, Bishop of Salamanca, 79.
Vitoria, 9.
W.
Wages of architects, &c., in the middle ages, 20, 41, 42, 58, 60, 61, 71, 72, 131, 144, 169, 185, 186, 265, 266, 270, 297, 298 and note, 305 note, 319, 332 note, 349, 449-462.
Waring, Mr., his view of the cloister at las Huelgas, 38 note.
Westminster Abbey, example of the internal arrangement of a Spanish church offered by, 418.
Windows in churches, undue number of, 111, 112.
Wren, Sir Christopher, 67;
anecdote of, 370 note.
X.
Xulbe, Joannes de, architect, 304;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 503.
——, Paschasius de, architect, 324;
his report on plan for completion of Gerona cathedral, 503.
Z.
Zacoma, Pedro, architect, 333, 453.
Zamora:
entrance to, 92;
cathedral, 92;
church of San Isidoro, 97;
la Magdalena, 97;
San Miguel, 99;
San Vicente, 99;
San Leonardo, 100;
Sta. Maria de la Horta, 100;
ruined church, 100;
San Juan, San Pedro, 100 note;
walls, 101;
bridge, 101;
Gothic house, 101.
Zaragoza:
old cathedral, 369;
church of San Pablo, 373;
Torre Nueva, 373;
another church, 374;
Renaissance buildings, 374;
church of Sta. Engracia, 374;
date of its recovery from the Moors, 410.

THE END.

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS.

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
Die Christliche KÜnst in Spanien=> Die Christliche Kunst in Spanien {fn pgvii}
Simple buttresses divide the bays of the clerestory.=> Simple the buttresses divide the bays of the clerestory. {pg 126}
They are to be seen on a sunday=> They are to be seen on a Sunday {pg 148}
the onter built in 1109=> the outer built in 1109 {pg 230}
sarista secundas, Joannes de Boscho=> sacrista secundas, Joannes de Boscho {pg 513}

FOOTNOTES:

[1] I have quoted this book throughout as “Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp.”

[2] Die Christliche Kunst in Spanien. Leipzic, 1853.

[3] EspaÑa Artistica y Monumental, por Don G. P. de Villa Amil y Don P. de la Escosura. Paris, 1842.

[4] Recuerdos y Bellezas de EspaÑa, por F. J. Parcerisa, 1844, &c.

[5] Monumentos ArquitectÓnicos de EspaÑa; publicados Á expensas del Estado, bajo la direccÇon de una Comision especial creada por el Ministerio de Fomento.—Madrid, 1859-65, and still in course of publication.

[6] The church, at Bidart, between Bayonne and the French frontier, is quite worth going into. It has a nave about forty-five feet wide, and three tiers of wooden galleries all round its north, west, and south walls. They are quaint and picturesque in construction, and are supported by timbers jutting out upwards from the walls, not being supported at all from the floor.

[7] Plate I. This (as are all the other plans in this book) is made from my own rapid sketches and measurements. It is necessarily, therefore, only generally correct. But I believe that it, and all the others, will be found to be sufficiently accurate for all the purposes for which they are required. Without ground-plans it is impossible to understand any descriptions of buildings; and they are the more necessary in this case, seeing that, with the exception of very small plans of Burgos and Leon Cathedrals, there is probably no illustration of the plan of any one of the churches visited by me ever yet published in England. I have drawn all the plans to the same scale, viz., fifty feet to an inch. This is double the scale to which the plans in Mr. Fergusson’s ‘History of Architecture’ are drawn; and though it would facilitate a comparison of the Spanish with other ground-plans illustrated by him to have them on the same scale, I found it impossible to show all that I wanted in so very small a compass.

[8] I have not thought it necessary to draw these ruinous additions to the early design. That they are additions is easily proved by the way in which they are tied with bands of iron to the early shafts, as well as by the complete difference in style. The original work is fortunately intact behind the added pinnacles, and there is nothing conjectural in its restoration.

[9] The Chapter entered into a contract with one Jusepe Rodriguez for these books; but Philip II. insisted upon his being set free from this contract in order that he might work for him on the books for the Escorial, where he wrought from A.D. 1577 to A.D. 1585. Cean Bermudez, Dice. Hist. de las Bellas Artes en EspaÑa. Some illustrations of initial letters in the Burgos books are given by Mr. Waring in his ‘Architectural Studies in Burgos.’

[10] ‘EspaÑa Sagrada,’ vol. xxvi. p. 301. G. G. DÁvila, ‘Teatro Ecclesiastico de las Yglesias de EspaÑa,’ iii. 65, says that Maurice was a Frenchman; and he mentions the consecration by him of the Premonstratensian Church of Sta. Maria la Real de Aguilar de Campo, on the 2nd Kal. Nov. 1222.

[11] Esp. Sag., xxvii. 306; ‘Memorial in the Archives at Burgos,’ ii. fol. 57. The era 1259 answers to A.D. 1221. The “era” so frequently occurring in Spanish records precedes the year of our Lord by thirty-eight years, and is, in fact, the era of the Emperor CÆsar Augustus. See ‘Cronicas de los Reyes de Castilla,’ vol. i. p. 31, and ‘EspaÑa Sagrada’ vol. ii. pp. 23 et seq., for an explanation of this computation, which is constantly used as late as the middle of the fourteenth century in all Spanish inscriptions and documents.

[12] Esp. Sag., xxvii. 313.

[13] Esp. Sag., xxvi. 315.

[14] Ponz states that Bishop Pascual de Fuensanta (1497-1512) moved the stalls from the Capilla mayor (i.e. choir) to the middle of the church; and Florez, Esp. Sag. xxvi. 315 and 413, makes the same statement.

[15] Ponz, ‘Viage de EspaÑa,’ xii. 28, says that the sculptures of this Retablo were executed by Rodrigo de la Aya and his brother Martin between A.D. 1577 and 1593 at a cost of 40,000 ducats; and that Juan de Urbina (a native of Madrid), and Gregorio Martinez of Valladolid, painted and gilded it for 11,000 ducats in three years, finishing in A.D. 1593.

[16] Esp. Sag., xxvi. 331.

[17] The chapel of the Visitation was built by Bishop Alonso de Cartagena, 1435-56. The chapel of Sta. Ana was built by Bishop Luis AcuÑa y Osorio, 1457-95. The chapel of Sta. Catalina in the Cloister is said to have been built in the time of Enrique II.—Caveda, Ensayo Historico, 379-80.

[18] Cod. M., No. 9.

[19] Noticias de los Arquitectos y Arquitectura de EspaÑa, vol. i., 206-7.

[20] Florez, Esp. Sag. xxvi. 393, says: “A MS. which I have says that Bishop Luis AcuÑa y Osorio (1457-95) reformed the fabric of the transept in the middle of the church with eight turrets, which became a ruin in the middle of the following century.”

[21] A view of the west front in A.D. 1771 shows the three western doors in their old state; they had statues on the door-jambs, and on the piers between them.—Esp. Sag. xxvi. p. 404.

[22] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. 105, 106.

[23] It was well that I used the word “delighted” when I wrote this page, for this passage no longer delights me as it did. I visited Burgos again last (1863), and found the Cathedral undergoing a sort of restoration; masons cleaning up everything inside, and by way of a beginning outside they had widened the passage to the south door, so as to make it square with and of the same width as the doorway; to do this a slice had been cut off the bishop’s palace, at some inconvenience to the bishop, no doubt, the result of doing it being simply that much of the beauty and picturesqueness of the old approach to the church is utterly lost for ever. Of one thing, such an unsuccessful alteration satisfies me—little indeed as I require to be satisfied on the point,—and this is, that in dealing with old buildings it is absolutely impossible to be too conservative in everything that one does. Often what seems—as doubtless this thing did to the people of Burgos—the most plain improvement is just, as this is, a disastrous change for the worse. And when we find old work, the reason for or meaning of which we do not quite perceive, we cannot be wrong in letting well alone. It is to be hoped that Spain is not now going to undergo what England suffered from James Wyatt and others, and what she is still in many places suffering at the hands of those who follow in their steps!

[24] In A.D. 1257 the king gave a piece of land opposite his palace (now the Episcopal Palace) to the Dean of Burgos. Was not this for the erection of the cloisters?

[25] One of the buttresses of the north transept is seen in the western alley of the cloister. On the face of it still remains one of the original dedication crosses—a cross pattÉe enclosed in a circle.

[26] On the east side these recessed arches have a very rich foliage in their soffeits.

[27] The coffer of the Cid is that which he filled with sand, and then pledged for a loan from some Jews, who supposed it to be full of valuables; afterwards he honestly repaid the borrowed money, and hence, perhaps, the coffer is preserved, the first part of the transaction being unquestionably not very worthy of record.

[28] Manrique, Anales Cisterciences, iii. 201.

[30] The nuns’ choir in the nave is, according to Florez, “the most capacious of all that are known in cathedrals and monasteries.” Esp. Sag., xxvi. 582.

[31] The organ in All Saints, Margaret Street, has the pipes of one stop similarly placed; but I know no old English example of this arrangement.

[32] Mr. Waring and M. Villa Amil have both published drawings of the inner cloister. The drawing of the latter is evidently not to be trusted; but from Mr. Waring’s view I gather that the arches are round, resting on coupled shafts, with large carved capitals. Mr. Waring calls them Romanesque, but in his drawing they look more like very late Transitional work, probably not earlier than A.D. 1200. They appear to be arranged in arcades of six open arches between larger piers, and with such a construction the cloister could hardly have been intended for groining. The famous cloister at Elne, near Perpignan, with those of Verona Cathedral, S. Trophine at Arles, Montmajeur, and Moissac, are examples of the class from which the design of such a cloister as this must have been derived, and its character is therefore rather more like that of Italian work, or work of the South of France, than that of Northern France or England.

[33] EspaÑa Sagrada, xxvii. 611-14.

[34] EspaÑa Sagrada, xxvi. 350, 359.

[35] An interesting account of this meeting is given in Cronicas de los Reyes de Castillos, i. p. 481-3.

[36] That it was “of no diocese” was expressly recorded among the titles borne by the Abbess, and given by Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, xii. 65.

[37] See the account at length in Esp. Sag., xxvii. 393 and 558.

[38] These stalls are like late Flemish work, but wrought by a Spaniard, Martin Sanchez, circa A.D. 1480, who received 125,000 maravedis for his labour.

[39] See Cean Bermudez, Dicc. Hist., vi. 171.

[40] A decidedly hyperbolical inscription is quoted by Ponz, in which the Chapel of Miraflores is called a Temple, “second to none in the world for monuments, beauty and curiousness.”—Ponz, Viage de Esp., xii. 61. The remark might fairly have been made if had referred only to the monuments.

[41] Quoted by Cean Bermudez, Dicc. Hist., iv. 378.

[42] There is an illustration of this monument in Mr. Waring’s book.

[43] See EspaÑa Sagrada, xxvii. 559. Cean Bermudez, Dicc. Hist. iv. 324, vi. 285, and Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 106 and 121.

[44] “Nobilis Vir Gonsalvus Polauco, atque ejus conjux Eleonora Miranda hujus sacri altaris auctores hoc tumulo conquiescunt:” “Obiit ille anno 1505 hÆc vero 1503.”

[45] I fear I must add that Roman Catholics still seem to be fond of western galleries; for one of the most recent, and I hope the most hideous of their works, the new Italian church in Hatton Garden, has, in addition to all its other faults, the glaring one of a western gallery fitted up like an orchestra, whilst the part of the floor which, according to all old usage, was given to the choir to sing praises to God, seems from the aspect of the chairs with which it is filled to be reserved for the more “respectable” part of the congregation! Extremes meet, and this Italian church would be easily convertible, as it would be most suitable, to the use of the baldest form of Dissent!

[46] Ponz, Viage de Esp., xii. 21, gives an inscription on one of the towers of the castle, which states that Pedro Sanchez, “Criado y Ballistero,” servant and archer to the King (Enrique II.), was its Mayordomo during its construction in the year 1295.

[47] In Braun and Hohenburgius’ ThÉÂtre des Villes, A.D. 1574, there is a view of Burgos, which must have been drawn somewhat earlier as the Chapel of the Constable is not shown in the cathedral: San Esteban is represented with a spire on its tower.

[48] I particularly refer here to our colonial cathedrals, in which I wish that the founders would from the first contemplate the erection of all the proper subordinate buildings, as well as that of the church itself; and also to those large town churches which we may hope to see built before long, and served by a staff of clergy working together and encouraging each other.

[49] i.e. the north side, which would be the side of the Gospel ambon if it faced in the right direction. As I never saw these galleries used, I do not know how the ambons were really appropriated.

[50] The work of Berruguete and his school is so called in Spain from its plate-like delicacy of work in flat relief. For Renaissance work it has a certain air of rich beauty, not often attained in other lands; and, indeed, it is only a debt of justice due to the architects of Spain from the time of Berruguete in 1500 to that of the ponderously Pagan Herrera towards the end of the same century, to say, that whatever faults may be found with their overgreat exuberance and lavish display of decoration, they nevertheless possessed rare powers of execution, and a fertility of conception (generally, it must be owned, of very ugly things), for which they may well be envied by their school now, as they were in their own day. Indeed, if the revivers of Renaissance in these days ever think of such a thing as importing a new idea, I wish heartily that they would go to Spain and study some of her 16th century buildings.

[51] The similar but rather earlier iron lectern preserved in the HÔtel Cluny, at Paris, is well known. See an illustration of it from a drawing of mine in the second volume of ‘Instrumenta Ecclesiastica’ of the Ecclesiological Society.

[52] The curious cemetery at Montmajeur, near Arles, is full of graves excavated in the rock, and cut out just so as to receive the body; so too are all our own old stone coffins. See also the illuminations illustrating the burial office so constantly introduced in books of “Hours.”

[53] Vol. xxvii. p. 675.

[54] This is a very common Flemish custom; but whether the Flemings borrowed it from Spain, or vice versÂ, I cannot say.

[55] Iron pulpits were not unknown in England in the middle ages. There was one in Durham Cathedral. See ‘Ancient Rites of Durham,’ p. 40.

[56] A drawing of this door is given by Mr. Waring, ‘Architectural Studies in Burgos,’ pl. 39.

[57] EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xxvi. p. 382-387, and vol. xxvii. p. 540.

[58] “Qui venerandus Pontifex hanc ecclesiam cum sacristia et capitulo suis sumptibus Ædificavit.”—EspaÑa Sagrada, xxvi. p. 387. The cloister was rebuilt by Alonso de Burgos, Bishop of Palencia, cir. 1480-99.—G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl. ii. 174.

[59] The inscription on the monument of Gonsalvo, Bishop of SigÜenza, contained the following passage: “Hic venerandus Pontifex fuit filius, ex legitimo matrimonio natus, Reverendi Pontificis DÑi Pauli,” &c.

[60] Ceau Bermudez, Arq. y Arquos. de EspaÑa, i. 103.

[61] In ‘L’Univers Pittoresque, Espagne,’ vol. xxxi. pl. 54, is a view of the ruin of the west end (apparently) of the convent of Carmelites at Burgos; it is a very richly sculptured and panelled front of the most florid kind of latest Pointed, and in a ruinous state.

[62] The first stone of the cathedral was laid on the 1st of June, 1321, by Cardinal Arnoldo, legate of Juan XXII., assisted by Juan II., Bishop of Palencia, and six other bishops, among whom was the Bishop of Bayonne; “and the first prebendary who had charge of the works (‘obrero’) in this holy church was Juan Perez de Aceves, Canon and Prior of Usillos, who assisted in laying the first stone with the legate and the bishops.”—G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl. ii. 159.

[63] In 1504 the conclusion of the cathedral of Palencia was undertaken by Martin de SolÓrzano, an inhabitant of Sta. Maria de Haces, under the condition that he should finish his work in six years, with stone from the quarries of Paredes del Monte and Fuentes de Valdepero. SalÓrzano, however, died in 1506, and Juan de Ruesga, a native of Segovia, finished it.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 142.

[64] Gil Gonzalez DÁvila, ‘Iglesia de Palencia,’ fol. 164, gives a letter from the Chapter to the Bishop D. Sancho de Rojas, begging for money for the work. The Chapter state that the stalls are to cost 76,000 maravedis, and that they are the work of “Maestro Centellas,” and that they propose to adorn the Bishop’s seat with four achievements of arms. The bishop at the time this letter was written was at Valencia, assisting at the wedding of Alonso, Prince of Gerona, and the daughter of King D. Enrique III.—G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl. ii. 164.

[65] Cean Bermudez, Dicc. Hist., vol. ii. p. 236.

[66] Ibid., vol. v. p. 121.

[67] Also in his (D. Sancho de Rojas, A.D. 1397 to A.D. 1411) time was built the Capilla mayor, which is now the “Parroquia” of the church.—G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl., ii. 164.

[68] CristÓbal Andino made the Reja of the Capilla mayor in A.D. 1520 for 1500 ducats, and in 1530 the screen for 430 ducats, and Gaspar Rodriguez made that of the Coro in 1555 for the sum of 3600 gold ducats, paid by the bequest of Bishop D. Luis Cabeza de Vaca.

[69] Cean Bermudez, ‘Arq. Esp.’ i. 60, says the date 1535 exists on the door from the church to the cloister: and G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Ecc., ii. p. 171, says that in the time of D. Juan Rodriguez de Fonseca (translated to Burgos in A.D. 1514) the greater part of the chapels from the crossing downwards were built, as also the cloister and Chapter-house. The same bishop gave the stairs leading to the well of S. Antholin, repaired the dormitories, and gave to the sacristy a rich set of altar vestments (terno) of brocade, four tapestries of ecclesiastical history, and four others of “Salve Regina.”

[70] The stained glass which once adorned the church was executed by Diego de Salcedo in 1542, at the price of 100 maravedis each palm (cada palmo).—Cean Bermudez, Dicc. Hist., vol. iv. p. 304.

[71] This rare arrangement is seen in the church of the Frari at Venice, and in the church of the Capuchins at Lugo.

[72] Madoz, Dicc. de EspaÑa.

[73] It should be compared, for instance, with the church of the Eremitani at Padua, and the church of San Fermo Maggiore at Verona.

[74] We put up at the Fonda de Paris, in the Plaza Sta. Ana—a good inn, kept by some natives of Belliuzona, who took a good deal of trouble for me, and whose hotel may safely be recommended.

[75] ‘Viage de EspaÑa,’ vol. xi. p. 38.

[77] The Retablo of the high altar is (except the figure of the Blessed Virgin) a work of Juan de Juni (circa A.D. 1556-1583). He had studied under Michael Angelo, and was either an Italian or a Fleming. I am sorry to differ from Mr. Ford as to the merits of this artist; but I must say that I never saw figures so violently twisted and distorted, so affected and unnatural, or coloured decorations so gaudy and contemptible as those in which he indulged. At the same time, his works are so characteristic of his period and school as to deserve examination, even if they provoke contempt.

[78] Historia de Valladolid, vol. ii. p. 181.

[79] Sagrador y Vitores, Hist. de Valladolid, vol. ii. p. 186.

[80] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp. i. 109.

[81] Sagrador y Vitores, Hist. de Valladolid, ii. 263-268.

[82] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp. i. 128.

[83] Enrique de Egas built the Hospital of Sta. Cruz, at Toledo, between 1504 and 1514. His work at Valladolid is still half Gothic; a few years later, at Toledo, it is completely Renaissance in style. It is seldom that we can trace this radical change of style in the work of the same man.

[84] Little meets the eye, but still I have had several new establishments of regular clergy pointed out to me, and the Church in Spain is already, no doubt, regaining something of what she has lost in revolutions and wars.

[85] Handbook of Spain, vol. ii. p. 572.

[86] Berruguete was not dissatisfied with his work. In a letter from him to AndrÉs de NÁgera (given by Sagrador y Vitores in his History of Valladolid, vol. ii. p. 257) he expresses his own extreme satisfaction in the most unreserved way.

[87] The remarkable brick buildings of Toulouse and its neighbourhood are similarly constructed; so, too, are those not less remarkable works at LÜbeck and elsewhere in the north of Germany.

[89] It is doubtful whether this surname is correct, and whether it is not old Spanish for “Vixit” in the inscription on his tomb.—Ford, Handbook, p. 521.

[90] Teatro Eccl., iii. 236-8.

[91] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. 21.

[92] G. G. DÁvila, Teat. Eccl., iii. 344.

[94] The statues at the angles of the lantern are of our Lord, the B. V. M., an angel, and a bishop.

[95] Don Miguel, priest of San Juan, Medina del Campo, made a donation to the church in A.D. 1178, to complete the work of the cathedral. The Chapter-house is probably of about this date or a little later.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. 23.

[96] I use the modern terms, which seem to express their offices. The original words are J. G. de HontaÑon, “maestro de canteria para maestro principal, y en Juan Campero, cautero, para aparejador.”

[97] Two inscriptions on stones on the church give the dates of its commencement and first use.

“+ Hoc Templum inceptum est anno a nativitate Domini millesimo quingentesimo tercio decimo die Jovis duodecima mensis Maii.”

“+ Pio. IV. Papa, Philippo II. Rege. Francisco Manrique de Lara, Episcopo, ex vetere ad hoc templum facta translatio xxv. Martii anno a Cristo nato 1560.”—G. G. DÁvila, Teat. Ecc., iii. 320, 344.

[98] It will be seen presently that in the somewhat similar cathedral at Zamora the Romanesque steeple occupies precisely the same position as this. It is possible that when the Junta sat the steeple they spoke of was of the same age as the old church, and that it has been subsequently recast in Renaissance.

[99] Yet I think a more careful search would be rewarded, for we know of the consecration of several churches at an early date, and Mr. Ford speaks of them as still existing.

Church of San Nicholas, consecrated 11 Kal. Nov. 1192.
Do. San Pedro, do. Nov. 1202.
Church of Sta. Maria de los Caballeros, consecrated Nov. 1214.
Do. San Emilian, do. Nov. 1226.
Do. S. Michael, do. Nov. 1238.
—G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl., iii. pp. 272-4.

[101] G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccl., ii. 397. DÁvila’s statement, supported by the inscription on his tomb, is that Bernardo was the first Bishop of Zamora; but this does not appear to accord exactly with the result at which Florez arrives. His statement is that GerÓnimo was the first Bishop of Zamora after a long hiatus, that he was succeeded by Bernardo, and that both these bishops were appointed by Bernard of Toledo, and both were natives of PÉrigord. The fact seems to be that GerÓnimo was Bishop of Valencia, and had to fly thence when the Moors regained possession after the Cid’s death, and that he was then made Bishop of Salamanca. It is certainly not a little curious that two of the eleventh-century bishops of Zamora should have come from a district where all the vaulting is more or less domical, and that we should have in their cathedral one of the most remarkable examples of a domed church. It will be recollected that nearly the same facts have been mentioned in regard to Salamanca. See Esp. Sag., vol. xiv. pp. 362-368, and p. 79 ante.

[102]

Fit domus hista quidem, veluti Salomonica capridem
Huc adhibite fidem: domus hÆc successit eidem.
Sumptibus, et magnis viginti fit tribus annis.
A quo fundatur, Domino faciente sacratur.
Anno millessimo, centessimo, septuagesimo.
Quarto completur, Stephanus, qui fecit habetur.
Alfonsus imperator, Rex Septimus fundavit.
G. G. DÁvila, Teat. Eccl., ii. 397-8.

The same historian says that King Fernando I. rebuilt the city of Zamora with very strong walls in 1055.—ii. 395.

[103] This I suppose is the chapel of San Ildefonso, founded in 1466 by the Cardinal D. Juan de Mella, Bishop of Zamora.

[104] M. Villa-Amil, who gives a view of this transept, has converted this arcade into a row of windows, presented the doorway with a sculptured tympanum, and entirely altered the character of the archivolt enrichment.

[105] On the north side, the figures and inscriptions are as follow:—

  • 1. Abel. Vox sanguinis.
  • 2. Abraam. Tres vidit; unum adoravit.
  • 3. Joseph. Melius est ut venundetur.
  • 4. Melchisedec. Rex Salem proferens panem et vinum.
  • 5. Job. De terra surrecturus sum.
  • 6. Aaron. Invenit germinans.
  • 7. Samson. De (comedente exivit cibus).
  • 8. Samuel. Loquere Domine.
  • 9. David. Dominus dixit ad me, Filius.
  • 10. Jeremias. Dominus.
  • 11. Ezekiel. Porta hÆc.
  • 12. Oseas (with cross botonnÉe on breast). Addam ultra.
  • 13. Amos. Super tribus.
  • 14. Micheas. Percutient maxillam.
  • 15. Abacuc. Exultabo in Deo Jesu meo.
  • 16. Sophonias. Juxta est dies.
  • 17. Zacharias. Jesus erat.
  • 18. Nabuchodonosor. Quartus similis Filio Dei.
  • 19. Virgilius Bucol. Progenies.

On the south side:—

  • 1. Moyses. Prophetam excitabit.
  • 2. Isaac. Vox quidem vox.
  • 3. Jacob. Non auferetur Sceptrum de Juda.
  • 4. Balaam. Orietur stella ex.
  • 5. Gedeon. Si ros solo.
  • 6. Helias. Ambulavit in fortitudine.
  • 7. HelisÆus. Vade, et lavare septies.
  • 8. Salomon. Levent servi mei.
  • 9. Tobias. Jherusalem.
  • 10. Isayas. Ecce Virgo concipiet.
  • 11. Baruch. Statuam Testamentum illis.
  • 12. Daniel. Septuaginta hebdomades.
  • 13. Johel. Magnus enim dies Domini.
  • 14. Jonas. De ventre.
  • 15. Naum. Ecce super.
  • 16. Ageus. Veniet desideratus.
  • 17. Malachias. A solis ortu usque ad.
  • 18. Caiaphas. Expedit vobis.
  • 19. Centurio. Vere Filius.

[106] See plan, Plate VIII.

[107] The western doorways of Salisbury Cathedral are emphatically mere “holes in the wall,” and very characteristic, too.

[108] I add Dr. Neale’s notes of two churches here which I did not discover.

“San Juan de la Puerta Nueva. Principally of Flamboyant date, has a square east end. The whole breadth of the church is here under one vault, the span somewhere about sixty feet. The north porch, separated by a parclose from the chapel of the Cross, has an excellent Transitional door. The western faÇade has a middle-pointed window of five lights.

“San Pedro. Has had its originally-distinct nave and aisles thrown into one in Flamboyant times, and vaulted with an immense span.”

[109] Nevertheless, Dr. Neale describes it as existing, and so, no doubt, it does.—‘An Ecclesiological Tour,’ Ecclesiologist, vol. xiv. p. 361.

[110] See plan, Plate VIII.

[111] There is an inscription on the south-east buttress of the transept which, I believe, refers to the date of the church; but, unfortunately, though I noticed it, I forgot to write it down.

[112] See Catologo de los Obispos de Leon. Cixila II. Esp. Sag., xxxiv. 211.

[113] In a deed of the 20th March, A.D. 1175, mention is made of Pedro Cebrian, “Maestro de la Obra de la Catedral,” and of Pedro Gallego, “Gobernador de las Torres.” It is possible, of course, that Cebrian may have been the architect of the new cathedral if it was commenced between 1181 and 1205, but I do not believe that this was the case; and the real architect was, more probably one who is thus mentioned in the book of Obits of the cathedral: “Eodem die VII. idus Julii, sub era MCCCXV. obiit Henricus, magister operis,” and who, dying in the year 1277, may well have designed the greater portion of the work. At a later date, in 1513, Juan de Badajoz was architect of the cathedral, and may probably have finished one of the steeples.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 37, 38.

[114] “Hoc tempore,” he says, “ampliata est fides Catholica in Hispania, et licet multi Regnum Legionense bellis impeterent, tamen EcclesiÆ regalibus muneribus ditatÆ sunt in tantum, ut antiquÆ destruerentur EcclesiÆ, quÆ magnis sumptibus fuerant fabricatÆ, et multo nobiliores et pulchriores in toto Regno Legionensi fuudarentur. Tunc reverendus Episcopus Legionensis Manricus ejusdem Sedis Ecclesiam fundavit opere magno, sed eam ad perfectionem non duxit.”

[115] “Cum igitur,” they say, “ad fabricam EcclesiÆ SauctÆ MariÆ Legionensis quÆ de novo construitur, et magnis indiget sumptibus, propriÆ non suppetant facultates, universitatem vestram rogamus,”—“quatenus de bonis vobis a Deo collatis eidem fabricÆ pias eleemosynas de vestris facultatibus tribuatis, ut per hÆc, et alia bona opera, quÆ inspirante Deo feceritis, ad eterna possitis gaudia pervenire.” This indulgence is preserved in the archives of the cathedral.—EspaÑa Sagrada, xxxv. p. 269.

[116] “Cum igitur Ecclesia BeatÆ MariÆ Legion. Sedis Ædificetur de novo opere quamplurimum sumptuoso, et absque fidelium adminiculo non possit feliciter consummari, universitatem vestram monemus et exhortamur in Domino,” &c. &c.; “ut per subventionem vestram, quod ibidem inceptum est, ad effectum optatum valeat pervenire,” &c., given in the general Council of Leon, 10 Kal. Aug. A.D. 1273.—EspaÑa Sagrada, xxxv. p. 270.

[118] So, at least, I was assured by the superintendent of the works at the cathedral. Some of the material I saw was no doubt tufa; but some of it seemed to me to be an exceedingly light kind of concrete. The vaulting of Salisbury Cathedral is similarly constructed. I do not know whether at Beauvais the same expedient was adopted to lessen the weight.

[119] The three crucifixes at the entrance to the cemetery at Nuremberg will be remembered by all who have ever seen them; and such a group would have made a fitting centre for such a cloister as this at Leon.

[120] This conceit is illustrated more elaborately than I have elsewhere seen it in a palace near San Isidoro, where the angle windows are designed and executed in a sort of perspective, which is inexpressibly bad in effect.

[121] Not a crucifix.

[122] Witness Mr. E. Burne Jones’s beautiful picture over the altar of S. Paul, Brighton, and Mr. D. G. Rossetti’s at Llandaff.

[123] Teatro Ecclesiastico, i. p. 365.

[124] “Hic requiescit Petrus de Deo, qui superÆdificavit Ecclesiam hanc. Iste fundavit pontem, qui dicitur de Deus tamben: et quia erat vir mirÆ abstinentiÆ et multis florebat miraculis, omnes eum laudibus prÆdicabant. Sepultus est hic ab Imperatore Adefonso et Sancia Regina.” Esp. Sag., xxxv. p. 356. G. G. DÁvila, Teatro Eccles., i. p. 340. DÁvila adds the words “servus Dei” before the name of the architect.

[125] See Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. p. 14.

[126] The whole of this deed of endowment is interesting. I quote a few lines only, which have some interest, as bearing, among other things, on the Gothic crowns found at Guarrazar, and mentioned at p. 212. “Offerimus igitur” “ornamenta altariorum: id est, frontale ex auro puro opere digno cum lapidibus smaragdis, safiris, et omnia genere pretiosis et olovitreis: alios similiter tres frontales argenteos singulis altaribus: Coronas tres aureas: una ex his cum sex alfas in gyro, et corona de Alaules intus in ea pendens: alia est de anemnates cum olivitreo, aurea. Tertia vero est diadema capitis mei,” &c. &c.—Esp. Sag., xxxvi., Appendix, p. clxxxix.

[127] “Sub era millesima centesima octuagesima septima, pridie nonas Martii, facta est Ecclesia Sancti Isidori consecrata per manus Raymundi ToletanÆ Sedis Archiepiscopi, et Joannis Legionensis episcopi,” &c. &c.—Teatro Eccl., vol. ii., p. 243. See also the similar inscription on a stone in San Isidoro.—Esp. Sag., vol. xxxv. p. 207.

[128] Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, xi. p. 234.

[130] E.g. Segovia, Avila, Salamanca, Benavente, LÉrida.

[131] So, at least, says Cean Bermudez, but without giving his authority.

[132] Pallares Gayoso, Hist. de Lugo, from the black book in the archives.

[133] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 25.

[135] A.D. 1577.—Madoz, Dicc.

[136] Teatro Eccl., iii. 182, 183.

[138] The following inscription remains on one of the columns on the north side of the nave:—

SANTA : MARIA : RECE
AB : ESTE : PIAR : DE : FON
DO : A TE : CIMA : CON : LA
METADE : DOS : AR
COS : CA : QUELQUE : O :
PAGON : EN : VIII. : IDUS
JULII : ERA : MCCC : XL.

From which it appears that this column, with the halves of the two arches springing from it, was built in A.D. 1302. On another column on the same side is an inscription recording the erection of the Chapel of the Visitation in A.D. 1374.

[140] EspaÑa Sagrada, xix. p. 91.

[141] Historia del Apostol Sanctiago, by Mauro Castella Ferrer, p. 463.

[142] The latter document in particular has much architectural interest, and is worth transcribing in part, on account of its reference to these early buildings, and their materials and furniture. It commences as follows:—

“In nomine Domini nostri Jesu Christi, edificatum est Templum Sancti Salvatoris, et Sancti Jacobi Apostoli in locum Arcis Marmoricis territorio GalleciÆ per institutionem gloriosissimi Principis Adefonsi III. cum conjuge Scemena sub Pontifice loci ejusdem Sisnando Episcopo.” (877-903.) “Supplex egregii eximii Principis Ordonii proles ego Adefonsus Principi cum prÆdicto antistite statuimus Ædificare domum Domini et restaurare Templum ad tumulum sepulchri Apostoli, quod antiquitus construxerat divÆ memoriÆ Dominus Adefonsus Magnus ex petra et luto opere parvo. Nos quidem inspiratione divina adlati cum subditis ac familia nostra adduximus in sanctum locum ex Hispania inter agmina Maurorum, quÆ eligimus de Civitate EabecÆ petras marmoreas quas avi nostri ratibus per Pontum transvexerunt, et ex eis pulchras domos Ædificaverunt, quÆ ab inimicis destructÆ manebant. Unde quoque ostium principale Occidentalis partis ex ipsis marmoribus est appositum: supercilia vero liminaris Sedis invenimus sicut antiqua sessio fuerat miro opere sculpta. Ostium de sinistro juxta Oraculum BaptistÆ et Martyris Joannis quem simili modo fundavimus, et de puris lapidibus construximus columnas sex cum basibus todidem posuimus, ubi abbobuta tribunalis est constructa, vel alias columnas sculptas supra quas portius imminet de oppido Portucalense ratibus deportatas adduximus quadras, et calcem unde sunt ÆdificatÆ columnÆ decem et VIII. cum aliis columnelis marmoreis simili modo navigio.”—EspaÑa Sagrada, xix. p. 344, Appendix.

[143] Handbook of Spain, pp. 600-605.

[144] The authors of the ‘Manual del Viagero en la Catedral de Santiago’ are, however, not quite of this opinion. They say of it, “The monument which we examine belongs not to Santiago, to Galicia, to Spain, but is the patrimony of the Christian religion, of the Catholic world; since in all fervent souls something remains of the ancient and fervent faith of our forefathers.” This guide-book, by the way, is one of the worst I ever met with.

[145] The twentieth volume of ‘EspaÑa Sagrada’ is entirely occupied with the reprint of this chronicle.

[146] Histor. Compost, lib. iii. cap. 1.

[147] “Postquam supradictus Episcopus,” “ad Ecclesiam Patroni sui B. Jacobi Apostoli rediens, circa eam indefessam solicitudinem exhibuit.” “Reversus itaque a supradicta expeditione, vetustissimam Ecclesiolam obrui prÆcepit, quÆ intra immensam novÆ ecclesiÆ capacitatem imminente ruina lapsum minabatur. HÆc in longitudinem ad altare B. Jacobi protendebatur ab illo pilari qui juxta principalem ecclesiÆ parietem, et secus unum de quatuor principalibus pilaribus existit, in sinistra parte superiorem partem chori ingredientibus pone relinquitur, et juxta fores pontificalis Palatii Ecclesiam introeuntibus, recta fronte opponitur, et in alia parte, id est in dextera, a pilari opposito supradicto pilari usque ad idem altare: latitudo vero illius eadem quÆ modo et chori est. Destructa illa Ecclesia in era I.C.L.” (A.D. 1112.) “quÆ quasi obumbraculum totius EcclesiÆ esse videbatur, Chorum satis competentem ibidem composuit, qui usque in hodiernum diem Dei gratia et B. Jacobi per industriam ejusdem Episcopi optimi Cleri excellentia egregie decoratur. Ipse quoque Episcopus, utpote sapiens architectus, in ejusdem chori dextro capite fecit supereminens pulpitum, in quo Cantores, atque Subdiacones officii sui ordinem peragunt. In sinistro vero aliud, ubi lectiones et Evangelia leguntur. Est autem B. Jacobi specialis et prÆclara nova ecclesia incÆpta Era I. C. XVI.—V. idus Jul.” (A.D. 1078.) Histor. Compost., lib. i. cap. 78.

[148] The Archbishop’s words were as follows:—“Fratres, nostra ecclesia non nostris sed Dei gratia et nostri Patroni Beatissimi Apostoli Jacobi meritis maximi et celeberrimi est nominis, et ultra portus et citra portus pro ditissima et nobilissima reputatur.” “QuÆlibet Sedes ultra portus pulchriora et valentiora Ædificia habet quam nostra,” &c. &c.—Hist. Compost., lib. iii. cap. 1.

[149] Histor. Compost., lib. ii. cap. 64.

[150] Ibid., lib. iii. cap. 36.

[151] See Appendix.

[152] Before this time, in 1161, Master Matthew had built the bridge of Cesures in Gallicia.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 33.

[153] “Era: millena: nova: vicies: duodena.”

[154] By a strange coincidence, S. Sernin boasts of having, among the bones of several of the apostles, those of S. James; though, of course, this would be strongly denied at Compostella.

[155] The church from which the cathedral at Santiago was copied is one of a considerable number in France, all of which have the same general characteristics. I have already given some description of them in a paper read before the Royal Institute of British Architects in 1861, and published in their Transactions. The following list of some of the more remarkable examples will show both their date and locale:—Conques, completed in A.D. 1060; S. Etienne, Nevers, commenced in A.D. 1063, consecrated A.D. 1097; S. Eutrope, Saintes, consecrated in A.D. 1096; S. Genes, A.D. 1016-1120; S. Hilary, Poitiers, A.D. 1049; Montierneuf, Poitiers, A.D. 1069-1096; S. Radigonde, Poitiers, A.D. 1099; S. Amable, Riom, A.D. 1077-1120; S. Sernin, Toulouse, A.D. 1060-1096; Cluny, A.D. 1089-1131; Dorat (Haute Vienne) and BÉnÉvente (Creuse), A.D. 1150-1200; S. Saturnin; Volvic; Issoire; S. Nectaire; N. D. du Port, Clermont Ferrand, circa A.D. 1080-1160; Brioude, A.D. 1200. There is a church of similar construction at Granson, on the lake of NeufchÂtel. These churches agree generally in their plans, but especially in those of their chevets (which almost invariably have chapels in the alternate bays only). Their sections are also alike, the triforia galleries being always vaulted with a continuous half-barrel or quadrant vault, and they have no clerestories. No doubt they were always intended to receive stone roofs, without any use of timber; and this mode of covering has been carefully restored recently at N. D. du Port, Clermont Ferrand.

[156] This faÇade was designed by D. Ventura Rodriguez, in 1764.

[157] The ground-plan of this chapel is shown on Plate IX., above the plan of the cathedral.

[158] The sacristan will not trouble himself to show this chapel, and it was by a mere accident that I discovered its existence. The keys are kept by the carpenter of the chapter, whose shop is below the chapter-house.

[159] The seminario on the west, the hospital on the north, and the College of San JerÓnimo on the south side.

[160] This is the Puerta Santa, and is only opened by the archbishop in years of jubilee.

[161] It is just open to doubt whether the small circular window over the other is original, but I think the similarity to S. Sernin is in favour of its being so, in spite of some awkwardness in the mode of its introduction, which would otherwise have inclined me to doubt it.

[162] See the illustration of this doorway in the frontispiece.

[163] I could not discern the meaning of a rite the people perform here. They kneel down and put the thumb and three fingers of one hand into some cavities just fitted for them in the sculpture of the central shaft, and then with the other hand throw sand down the throats of the monsters. Some people evidently did this much to their own satisfaction, whilst an acolyte called my attention to the practice as being curious and unintelligible.

[164] EspaÑa Sag., vol. xix.

[165] This practice illustrates the intention of the singular pilgrimage chapel at the west end of Lapworth church, Warwickshire, which has two newel staircases to its small upper chamber, evidently intended to facilitate the passage of a crowd of people.

[166] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 105.

[167] “Don Juan of Medina, Bishop of Segovia, Abbat of Medina, President of the Cortes, Chancellor of Valladolid, ordered this chapel to be made in the year 1503. Laus Deo.”

[168] The walls near San Vicente are 42 feet high by 14 feet thick, and the towers of the gateway upwards of 60 feet in height.

[169] Ariz, Historia de Avila, part ii. p. 13. Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, xii. 308-9.

[170] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 18.

[171] EspaÑa Sagrada, xxxviii. p. 134.

[172] See ground-plan, Plate X.

[173] See ground-plan, Plate XXIII.

[174] Teatro Eccl. ii. 258. DÁvila, among the celebrities of Avila, includes himself, “the least of all, Pulvis et umbra.” One is surprised to find in his account of his own town so little really original matter as to the history or the date of its buildings.

[175] Juan de BorgoÑa contracted on March 23, 1508, to paint five pictures which were lacking in this Retablo, receiving 15,000 maravedis for each, and binding himself to finish them by All Saints’ Day of the same year.

[177] See the illustration of San Esteban, Segovia.

[178] Teatro Eccl. ii. 230.

[179] Teatro Eccl. ii. 229.

[180] Teatro Eccl. ii. 230.

[181] “In 1465 the sepulchre of the martyrs was made by donations from the Catholic kings, prelates,” &c. D. Andres H. Gallejo, ‘Memoria sobre la Basilica de San Vicente,’ p. 13. This date can only refer to the canopy.

[182] The following inscriptions on churches in Avila are given by G. G. DÁvila. On a stone in San Nicolas, “In honorem B. Nicolai dedicavit hanc ecclesiam Jacobus Abulensis Episcopus, &c. &c., vi. Kal. Novembris, era MCC.XXXVI.” On a stone in San Bartolomeo, “In honorem S. Bartholomei Apost. dedicavit hanc ecclesiam Petrus Episcopus, &c. &c., vii. idus Decembris, MCCXLVIII.” The same bishop consecrated San Domingo in 1240.

[183] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 113. This convent is said to have been founded by the Catholic monarchs entirely with the confiscated goods of Jews.

[184] Cean Bermudez, Dicc., &c., de los Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, vol. ii. p. 125.

[185] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 214.

[186] Here lies Rodrigo Gil de HontaÑon, Master of the Works of this Holy Church. He died the 31st of May, 1577. He set the first stone, which the Bishop D. Diego de Ribera laid on the 8th of June, 1525.

[188] See ground-plan, Plate VIII.

[189] Colmenares (Historia de la insigne Ciudad de Segovia; Segovia. 1637) gives the date of the first foundation 1447, but the buildings do not seem to have been begun before 1474, and the vaulting was finished in 1485.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 111.

[190] These particulars are all given in Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. pp. 111, 120, 146.

[192] See ground-plan, Plate VIII.

[193] San Millan is said to have been founded in A.D. 923, and similar early dates are given for Sta. Columba and San Esteban: none of them, I believe, retain any features of so great an antiquity.

[194] I did not see the church of San Lorenzo. It has three eastern apses, and an arcaded cloister on the western and southern sides, some of the arches being round and some pointed. The detail is all of the same kind as in other examples here, with much delicate imitation of natural foliage.—See Illustration in Monos. Arqos. de EspaÑa.

[195] The illustration of this courtyard is engraved from a photograph.

[196] See ground-plan, Plate XIII.

[197] Teatro Eccl., vol. i. pp. 131-148.

[198] See an illustration of this window on the ground-plan of SigÜenza Cathedral, Plate XIII.

[199] Hoc. claustrum. a. fundamentis, fieri, maudavit. Reverendissimus. Dominus. B. Carvaial. Car. S. +. in. Jerusalem. patriarcha. Ierosolimitan. episcopus. Tusculan. Antistes. hujus. alme. basilice. quod. cempletum. fuit. de. mense. Novembris. anno. Salutis. M.C.C.C.C.C.V.II. procurante. D. Serrano. Abbate. S. Columbe. ejusdem. ecclesiÆ. operario.

[200] B: Carvaial: Car: S: +: eps: Saguntin:

[201] Teatro Eccl., i 161.

[202] SeÑor Cabezas, a commissionaire, to be heard of at the Fonda de Lino, may be recommended. He knows all the most interesting churches, as well as the Moorish remains; and to see these last it is indispensable to have some conductor who knows both them and their owners.

[203] This castle is said by Ponz to have been built by Archbishop Tenorio, circa 1340.—Viage de EspaÑa, i. 163.

[204] It seems that the bridge of Alcantara fell down in the year 1211, and when it was repaired Enrique I. built a tower for the better defence of the city, as is recorded in an inscription given by Estevan de Garibay as follows: “Henrrik, son of the king Alfonso, ordered this tower and gate to be made, to the honour of God, by the hand of Matheo Paradiso in the era 1255” (A.D. 1217). In A.D. 1258 the king D. Alonso “el Sabio” rebuilt the bridge, and put the following inscription on a piece of marble over the point of the arch: “In the year 1258 from the incarnation of Lord Jesus Christ, was the grand deluge of water, which commenced before the month of August, and lasted until Thursday the 26th of December; and the fall of rain was very great in most lands, and did great damage in many places, and especially in Spain, where most of the bridges fell; and among all the others was demolished a great part of that bridge of Toledo, which Halaf, son of Mahomet Alameri, Alcalde of Toledo, had made by command of Almansor Aboaamir Mahomet, son of Abihamir, Alquazil of Amir Almomenin Hixem; and it was finished in the time of the Moors, 387 years before this time; and the king, D. Alonso, son of the noble king D. Fernando, and of the queen DoÑa Beatriz, who reigned in Castile, had it repaired and renovated; and it was finished in the eighth year of his reign, in the year of the Incarnation 1258.” Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. p. 254-255. The bridge was restored again by Archbishop Tenorio in 1380, and fortified in 1484 by Andres Manrique.—Ford, Handbook of Spain, p. 783.

[205] I must mention in this place one very curious collection of relics of the age of the Gothic kings of Spain. This is the marvellous group of votive crowns discovered in 1858 in a place called La Fuente de Guarrazar, in the environs of Toledo, and which were immediately purchased by the Emperor of the French for the Museum of the HÔtel de Cluny. They consist of five or six crowns, with crosses suspended from them, and three smaller crowns without crosses. They are of gold, and made with thin plates of gold stamped with a pattern, and they have gold chains for hanging them up by, and are adorned with an infinity of stones. They have been illustrated in a volume published by M. F. de Lasteyrie, with explanatory text. I cannot do better than quote the conclusions at which he arrives: “(1) The crowns found at Guarrazar are eminently votive crowns. (2) They have never been worn. (3) Their construction belongs probably to the age of Reccesvinthus and the episcopate of S. Ildefonso, who excited so great a devotion to the Blessed Virgin in Spain. (4) One of the crowns was offered by Reccesvinthus (whose name, formed in letters suspended from its edge, occurs on it); possibly the next in size may have been given by the queen, and the rest by their officers. (5) The place from which they came was a chapel called N. Dame des Cormiers. (6) All of the crowns, though found in Spain, appear to belong to an art of the same northern origin as the conquering dynasty which then occupied the throne. They certainly give the idea of an extraordinary skill in the gold-smiths’ art at this early period (circa 650-672), and it is probable that they had been buried where they were found at the time that the Moors entered Toledo as conquerors in A.D. 711.”—See Description du TrÉsor de Guarrazar, &c., par Ferdinand de Lasteyrie, Paris, 1860. Since this discovery some other crowns have been found in the same neighbourhood, and these are, I believe, preserved at Madrid. They have been described in a short paper in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, to which I must refer my readers. The crowns preserved at the HÔtel Cluny certainly form one of the greatest attractions in that attractive collection. They are in a singularly perfect state of preservation. Their workmanship is rather rude, and they all appear to be of as nearly as possible the same age and manufacture. There can be no question that M. F. de Lasteyrie is right in saying that they were never worn as crowns; they were designed for suspension before an altar, and most of them have crosses hanging from them. The largest crown—that of Reccesvinthus, is formed of two plates of gold, the inner plate plain, the outer pierced, beaten up, and set with very large stones. The plates of gold in many cases are stamped with a pattern. At the top and bottom of the plate which forms the coronet is a narrow band of cloisonnÉe gold, the spaces in which seem to have been filled with glass or red-coloured enamel. The largest crown is eight-and-a-half inches in diameter, and has a splendid jewelled cross suspended from its centre, and the name of the king in large Roman letters hung by chains from its lower edge, and formed of cloisonnÉe gold. When I see such work done in the seventh century, and then look at modern jeweller’s work, I am tempted to think that the much vaunted progress of the world is not always in the right direction. Gold and silver ornaments were exported from Spain to so considerable an extent, that the tiara of the Pope, being richly wrought with precious metal, was called Spanoclista.—Masdeu, Hist. Critica.

[206] “The Christians, in all matters exclusively relating to themselves, were governed by their own laws, administered by their own judges. Their churches and monasteries (rosÆ inter spinas) were scattered over the principal towns, and their clergy were allowed to display the costume and celebrate the pompous ceremonial of the Romish religion.”—Prescott, Hist. of Ferdinand and Isabella, vol. i. p. 5.

[207] Sta. Justa (founded in 554), Sta. Eulalia (559), San Sebastian (601), San Marcos (634), San Lucas (641), San Torcuato (700), and Nuestra SeÑora del Arribal were the churches so granted for the use of the Mozarabic Liturgy. See D. Manuel de Assas, ‘Album Art. de Toledo,’ Art. II., and D. Sisto Ramon Parro, ‘Toledo en la Mano,’ p. 167 et seq.

[208] “The most remarkable buildings which illustrate the Mahomedan architecture in Toledo are the following:—The Mosque, now church of Cristo de la Luz, the Synagogues Sta. Maria la Blanca and El Transito, the church of San Roman—probably once a Mosque or Synagogue—the gateways De Visagra and Del Sol, and one on the Bridge of Alcantara, the Alcazar, the Palace of D. Diego, the Casa de Mesa, the Taller del Moro, the Temple (No. 10, Calle de San Miguel), the College of Saint Catherine, the house No. 17, Calle de las Tornerias, the ruins of the Palace of Villena, those of St. Augustine, of San GinÉs, the Baths de la Cava, the Castle of San Servando (or Cervantes), the Palace of Galiena, and finally the Churches of SS. Ursula, Torcuato, Isabel, Marcos, Justo, Juan de la Penitencia, Miguel, Magdalena, Concepcion, Sta. FÉ, Santiago, Cristo de la Vega (or Sta. Leocadia), SS. TomÉ and BartolomÉ.”—D. Manuel de Assas, Album Artist. de Toledo, and Toledo Pintoresca, Don J. Amador de los Rios. There are other remains, and among them a very fine room behind the house, No. 6, Calle la Plata.

[209] Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 210, gives a view of the considerable remains of a Roman aqueduct. I believe these have now entirely disappeared.

[210] There is a view in Villa Amil’s work of this interior, but the scale of the figures introduced is so much too small as to increase largely the apparent size of the building; otherwise the drawing is fairly correct. The illustration which I give is borrowed from Mr. Fergusson’s ‘Handbook of Architecture,’ and is from a drawing by M. Girault de Prangey.

[211] I find that Archbishop Rodrigo consecrated the church of San Roman on the 20th of June, 1221. See his Historia de Rebus HispaniÆ, in EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. ii. p. 23.

[212] San Vicente Ferrer is said to have converted more than 4000 Toledan Jews in one day in the year 1407; and in 1413 a vast number were converted in Zaragoza, Calatayud, and elsewhere in the north of Spain. One cannot but fear that coming events in this case cast their shadows before them, and that the Jews had a shrewd suspicion of the coming of the edict of 1492, by which 170,000 Jewish families were ordered to leave the kingdom if they would not be baptized. The establishment of the Inquisition was the necessary consequence of such an edict. See Don J. Amador de los Rios, Estudios sobre los Judios de EspaÑa, pp. 84, 106, 156.

The illustration which I give of the interior of this synagogue is borrowed from Mr. Fergusson’s ‘Handbook of Architecture.’ The original view is in M. Villa-Amil’s work, and gives a fairly correct representation of the general effect of the building.

[213] Said to have been so called on account of the passing-bell rung at the death of any of the Knights of Calatrava, to which it belonged after A.D. 1492; but more probably owing to its possession of a picture of the Assumption, the church having sometimes been called Nuestra SeÑora del Transito. It is also called San Benito. See D. Man. de Assas, Alb. Art. de Toledo.

[214] For some notice of Samuel Levi, and the inscriptions in the Synagogue, see Don JosÉ Amador de los Rios, Estudios sobre los Judios de EspaÑa, pp. 52-7. Translations of these long and curious Hebrew inscriptions are given by D. F. de Rades y Andrada in his Chronicle of Calatrava, pp. 24, 25.

[215] The capture of Granada, on Jan. 2nd, 1492, and the expulsion of the Jews at the end of July in the same year, were jointly recorded over the door “del Escribanos” at the west end of the cathedral; and at the same time so great was the zeal for the Christian faith that nothing else was tolerated anywhere in Spain, and least of all here under the eye of the Primate. Yet it is more than doubtful whether the country gained in any way—moral or material—by such a measure; it lost its most skilled workmen, its most skilled agriculturists; and the gloom-inspiring effect of the necessary Inquisition, seems permanently to have fixed itself on Spanish art and manners. 170,000 families of Jews, at the time of their expulsion, were compelled to leave the kingdom in four months, or be baptized.—Don J. A. de los Rios, Estudios s. l. Judios, p. 156.

[216] From artesa, a kneading-trough; a carved ceiling, made in the shape of an inverted trough. This term is usually applied by Spanish writers to this class of roof, and I follow Mr. Ford’s example in adopting it, as we have no term which exactly represents it.

[217] Viage de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 41.

[218] EspaÑa Art. y Mon., vol. i. p. 78.

[219] I am aware that in saying this I blame myself as much as any one else. The truth is, that so violent is the popular prejudice on some points that he must be a bold architect who ventures to run counter to it; and I am quite sure that the first brick building I erect with the brickwork executed in the proper way will be met by a storm of abuse from all sides. This is a great snare to most of us. Nothing is more easy than to secure popular applause in architecture. If we abstain from study, thought, or over-labour about the execution of every detail, we may still do what every one will agree is right and proper, because it has been done five hundred times before; but if we only give a fair amount of all three we are sure to meet with plenty of critics who never give any of either, and who hate our work in proportion to their own incapacity to criticize it from their old standpoint.

[220] A good illustration of San TomÉ is given in Villa Amil, vol. ii.

[221] Toledo en La Mano, pp. 249 et seq. Escosura in Villa Amil, vol. ii. p. 51.

[222] Ford’s Handbook, p. 777.

[223] see ante, p. 210.

[224] An inscription was put up in the time of Philip II. giving the history of the bridge, and stating that it had been rebuilt by Pedro Tenorio, the archbishop: “Pontem cujus ruinÆ in declivis alveo proxime visuntur, fluminis inundatione, quÆ anno Domini MCCIII. super ipsum excrevit, diruptum Toletani in hoc loco Ædificaverunt. Imbecilla hominum consilia, quem jam amnis lÆdere non poterat, Petro et Henrico fratribus pro regno contendentibus interruptum, Petrus Tenorius archiepiscopus Toletan. reparÂdum curavit.”

A quaint story is told of the building of this bridge. The architect whilst the work was going on perceived that as soon as the centres were removed the arches would fall, and confided his grief to his wife. She with woman’s wit forthwith set fire to the centring, and when the whole fell together all the world attributed the calamity to the accident of the fire. When the bridge had been rebuilt again she avowed her proceeding, but Archbishop Tenorio, instead of making her husband pay the expenses, seems to have confined himself to complimenting him on the treasure he possessed in his wife.—Cean Bermudez, Not. de los Arquos., &c., vol. i. p. 79.

[225] A stone was found in the 16th century with this inscription on it:—

IN NOMINE DNI CONSECRA
TA ECCLESIA SCTE MARIE
IN CATHOLICO DIE PRIMO
IDUS APRILIS ANNO FELI
CITER PRIMO REGNI DNI
NOSTRI GLORIOSISSIMI H
RECCAREDI REGIS ERA
DCXXV

This stone is still preserved, and is interesting as a proof that a church was standing here in the year 587.

[226] Bernard, the first bishop, after the expulsion of the Moors was sent from France, at the request of the king, by Hugo, Abbot of Cluny. The story of this seizure of the mosque is as follows: “Regina Constantia hortante de revete adscitis militibus Christianis, majorem Mezquilam ingressus est Toletanam, et eliminata spurcitia Mahometi, erexit altaria fidei ChristianÆ, et in majori turri campanas ad convocationem fidelium collocavit.” The king came back forthwith in great wrath, determined to burn both queen and archbishop, and riding into the city was met by a crowd of Moors, to whom he cried out that no injury had been done to them, but only to him who had solemnly given his oath that their mosque should be preserved to them. They, however, prudently begged him to let them release him from his oath, whereat he had great joy, and riding on into the city the matter ended peacefully.—Archbishop Rodrigo, De Rebus HispaniÆ, lib. vi. cap. xxiii.

[227] “In the era 1264 (A.D. 1226) the king D. Fernando, and the archbishop Don Rodrigo, laid the first stones in the foundation of the church of Toledo.”—Anales Toledanos III. Salazar de Mendoza, in the prologue to the Chronicle of Cardinal D. Pedro Gonzalez de Mendoza, says that the function took place on the 14th Aug. 1227, the eve of the Assumption. The archbishop, in his History, lib. ix. cap. 13, says that the work was carried on to the great admiration of the people: “Et tunc jecerunt primum lapidem” (the Toledo MS. has lapides) “Rex et Archiepiscopus Rodericus in fundamento ecclesiÆ ToletanÆ, quÆ in forma mexquitÆ” (of a mosque) “À tempore Arabum adhue stabat: cujus fabrica opere mirabili de die in diem non sine grandi admiratione hominum exaltatur.” It is vexatious to find the archbishop who laid the first stone writing a history of his own times, and saying nothing throughout the entire volume beyond these few words about his cathedral. No one seems to be able to judge what will interest another age. Most of the archbishop’s facts are rather insignificant, and what thanks would we not have given him for any information as to the building of one of the grandest churches of the age!—See his History—finished in 1243—in vol. iii. of Coll. Patrum Ecc. ToletanÆ, Madrid, 1795.

[228] It is preserved in the Chapel of St. Catherine.—See Blas Ortiz, Summi Templi Toletani graphica Descriptio.

[229] I venture to speak with great positiveness about some features of detail. It is possible enough that architects in various countries may develop from one original—say from a Lombard original—groups of buildings which shall have a general similarity. They may increase this similarity by travel. But in each country certain conventionalities have been introduced in the designing of details which it is most rare to see anywhere out of the country which produced them. Such, e.g., are the delicate differences between the French and English bases of the thirteenth century, nay even between the bases in various parts of the present French empire. These differences are so delicate that it is all but impossible to explain them; yet no one who has carefully studied them will doubt, when he sees a French moulding used throughout a building, that French artists had much to do with its design.

[230] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., &c., vol. i. pp. 253-4; and Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, passim.

[231]

Width in
clear of
Walls.
Length in
clear.
Width of
Nave from
c to c
of Columns.
feet. in. feet. feet. in.
Toledo[A] 178 0 395 50 6
Milan[B] 186 0 395 50 6
Cologne[B] 130 0 405 44 0
Paris[A] 110 0 400 48 0
Bourges[A] 128 0 370 49 0
Troyes[A] 124 0 395 50 0
Chartres[C] 100 0 430 50 0
Amiens[D] 100 0 435 49 0
Reims[C] 95 0 430 48 0
Lincoln[C] 80 0 468 45 0
York[C] 106 0 486 52 0
Westminster[C] 75 0 505 38 0

A: Five aisles, exclusive of chapels between buttresses.
B: Three aisles, exclusive of chapels between buttresses.
C: Five aisles.
D: Three aisles.

[232] The north-west tower only was built, and this long after the original foundation of the church (i.e. circa 1380-1440). Blas Ortiz, speaking of the foundation of the Mozarabic chapel at the west end of the opposite (south) aisle, says it was placed “in extrema Templi parte, ubi coeptÆ turris fundamenta surgebant.” The four western bays of the nave are no doubt rather later in date than the rest of the church, but they follow the same general design, and are not distinguishable on the ground-plan. My ground-plan of this enormous cathedral is deficient in some details; but my readers will pardon any departure from absolute accuracy in every part, when they consider how much useless labour the representation of every detail entails in such a work, and how impossible it would be for any one without a great deal of time at his disposal to do more than I have done. I am not aware that any plan of this cathedral has ever before been published. I omitted to examine a detached chapel—that I believe of the “Reyes Nuevos”—but with this exception, I think my plan shows the whole of the old portion of the work quite accurately.

[233] The account given by Blas Ortiz (who wrote his description of the cathedral in the time of Philip II.) ought to be given here, because it seems to show that in his time the roofs were not entirely covered with stone, but, as at present, with tile roofs in some parts above the stone. “EcclesiÆ testudines,” he says, “candidÆ sunt, muniunt eas, et ab imbribus aliisque incommodis protegunt tabulata magna (sive contiguationes) artificiose composita, fulcris statura hominis altioribus suffulta, tectaque partim tegulis, partim lateribus ac planis lapidibus. TurriculÆ lapideÆ in modum pyramidum erectÆ, e singulis (inquam) pilis per totum Ædificium exeunt, quÆ sacram Basilicam extrinsecus pulcherrimam faciunt.”—Descrip. Temp. Toletani, cap. xxi.

[234] M. Viollet le Duc’s articles in the Dictionnaire de l’Architecture FranÇaise on the planning of French churches are extremely valuable, as indeed is all that he writes; and I take the opportunity afforded me by the aid which he has thus given me in the consideration of this question, to express the gratitude which I suppose every student of Christian art feels for what he has done towards promoting its right study.

[235] That ingenious form of vault invented by modern plasterers, in which the transverse arch gives all the data for the shape of the diagonal rib, which is consequently neither a true pointed arch, nor a true curve of any kind, is, of course, the worst of all forms; and it might be thought unnecessary to utter a protest against it, were it not that we see some of our best modern buildings disfigured beyond measure by its introduction. Nothing is simpler than a good vault. The best rule for it is to make a good diagonal arch and a good transverse arch, and the filling in of the cells is pretty sure to take care of itself.

[236] I refer my readers to Chapter XX. for an account of the curious likeness between this plan and one by Wilars de Honecort.

[238] Toledo Pintoresca, p. 87.

[239] I take the height of nave from Blas Ortiz. He gives the dimensions of the church in Spanish feet as follows:—Length, 404; breadth, 202; height, 116 feet.

[240] Compendio del Toledo en la Mano, p. 182.

[241] The western bay, on the north side, has a monument with a gable, and the spandrels between it and the side pinnacles crowded with tracery mainly composed of cusped circles. The second bay, counting from the north-west, has in the tympanum over the cusped arch figures of the twelve apostles; and over them, our Lord, with angels holding candles and censers on either side. The monument in the third bay has figures of twelve saints, and above them the coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The fourth or eastern bay has a modern altar, which conceals completely the old work. The fifth bay has a Renaissance tomb of a bishop. The sixth, the same monument as in the second and third bays, with figures of twelve female saints, and above them the Resurrection, and the Last Judgment. The seventh bay corresponds with the first, which is opposite it; and the eighth bay contains the arch of communication with the choir aisle.

[242] Archbishop Don Pedro Tenorio was one of the most munificent of the archbishops of Toledo. In addition to the cloister and chapel of San Blas he is said to have built the castle of San Servando, the bridge of San Martin, and the convent of Mercenarios in Toledo. Besides which, he built castles and forts on the frontier of the kingdom of Granada, and erected the town of Villafranca with its famous bridge “del Arzobispo.”

[243] There are twelve bells, of which the largest is San Eugenio. There are some old lines which show its fame:—

CampaÑa la de Toledo,
Iglesia la de Leon,
Reloj el de Benavente
Rollos los de Villalon.

[244] It is said that a number of designs were sent in competition for this monument, and that from among them that of Pablo Ortiz was selected, and a contract entered into for its erection on January 7th, 1489.—Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, iii. 284.

[245] These later stalls have the following inscription:—

“Signa, tum marmorea, tum ligna coelavere:
Hine Philippus Burgundio
Ex adversum Berruguetus Hispanus
Certaverunt, tum artificium ingenia.
Certabunt semper spertatorum judicia.”

But for their whole history see Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, v. 230. BorgoÑa carved the stalls on the Gospel side, Berruguete those on the Epistle side of the choir.—Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, i. 59. This same Felipe de BorgoÑa was architect of the lantern of Burgos cathedral.

[246] The Reja east of the Coro was designed by Domingo Cespides, by order of the Chapter, to whom he presented a model made in wood by Martinez, a carpenter.—Toledo Pintoresca, p. 40.

[247] Alonso de Covarrubias, Maestro Mayor from 1534 to 1536, mentions among his works the removal of most of the Retablos, which, he says, produced a “detestable effect.” For an account of the Retablo of the principal altar, and the names of the men who executed it, see Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, i. 65. It was designed in 1500. See also the Life of Juan de BorgoÑa, in Diccin., &c., de las Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 163.

[248] I find the following interesting account of the colours used during the different seasons of the ecclesiastical year given by Blas Ortiz, Descriptio Templi Toletani, pp. 387, 388:—

White.—The Nativity and Resurrection of our Lord, and the feasts of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Virgins.

Red.—Epiphany, Pentecost, Festivity of Holy Cross, Apostles, Evangelists, and Martyrs, and the Victory of Benamarin.

Green.—In the procession on Palm Sunday, and the Solemnity of S. John Baptist.

Saffron, or light Yellow.—On Feasts of Confessors, Doctors, and Abbots.

Blue.—Trinity Sunday, and many other Sundays.

Ash-colour.—Ash-Wednesday.

Violet.—Advent and Lent, wars, and troubles.

Black.—For the Passion of our Lord, and for funerals. And besides these all sorts of colours mixed with gold on the festival of All Saints, on account of their diversity of character, and on the coming of the king or archbishops of Toledo, or of legates from the Pope.

[249] Hernando del Pulgar, in the ‘Cronica de los muy Altos y Esclarecidos Reyes Catolicos’ (part ii. cap. 65), records the erection of the church in accomplishment of a vow made after the battle of Toro; and D. Francisco de Pisa, in his ‘Descripcion de la Imperial Ciudad,’ says that Ferdinand and Isabella intended to be buried here. They changed their intention in favour of the chapel they built at Granada after the conquest.

[250] Said to be portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella.—Toledo en la Mano, p. 137.

[251]

ANNO DOMINI M.CC.LXII. X. KAL. JUL. FUIT
POSITUS PRIMUS LAPIS IN ECCLESIA BEATÆ
MARIÆ SEDIS VALENTINÆ PER VENERABILEM
PATREM DOMINUM FRATREM ANDREAM TERTIUM
VALENTINÆ CIVITATIS EPISCOPUM.

[252] This doorway ought to be compared with the south door of the nave of LÉrida cathedral, the detail of which is so extremely similar to it that it is impossible, I think, to doubt that they were the work of the same men.

[253] Madoz gives the same date.—Dicc. Geo. Esp. HistÓrico.

[254] The illustration which I give of this lantern is borrowed from Mr. Fergusson’s ‘Handbook of Architecture.’

[255] Noticias de los Arquitectos, &c., vol. i. p. 256.

[256] Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 31.

[257] L’an 1238, lorsque Jaques I. Roi d’Arragon assiÉgoit Valence, qui etait au pouvoir des Mores, il dÉclara que les premiers qui l’emporteroient auroient l’honneur de donner les poids, les mesures, et la monnaye de leur ville À ceux de Valence; lÀ dessus ceux de LÉrida s’y jettÈrent les premiers, et prirent la ville. C’est pourquoi, lorsqu’on repeupla Valence, ils y envoyÈrent une colonie, leurs mesures, et leur monnaye, dont on s’y sert encore aujourd’hui; et la ville de Valence reconnoit celle de LÉrida pour sa mÈre.—Les DÉlices de l’Espagne, iv. 613. Leyden, A.D. 1715.

[258] Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, iv. 21, 22.

[259] Valdomar also built the chapel “de los Reyes,” in the convent of San Domingo, commenced 18th June, 1439, and completed 24th June, 1476. This convent is now desecrated, and I did not see it, but it is said still to contain a good Gothic cloister.

[260] Pedro Compte is mentioned as having been invited by the Archbishop of Zaragoza to a conference with four other architects as to the rebuilding of the Cimborio of his cathedral, which had fallen down in 1520.

[261] Viage de Esp., vol. iv. pp. 29, 30.

[262] Spain boasts other like treasures, e.g.—a figure still preserved at MondoÑedo, and which is still called “la Yuglesa,” because brought from St. Paul’s.—See Ponz, Viage de EspaÑa, vol. iv. p. 43.

[263] Handbook of Spain, i. 367.

[264] Cean Bermudez, Arqua. y Aquos. de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 139.

[265] In May, 1862.

[266] Tarragona is the see of an archbishop, who claims to be equal, if not superior, to the Archbishop of Toledo. Practically, of course, he is nothing of the kind, yet he carries the assertion of his dignity so far that I noticed a Mandamos of the Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo hung up in the Coro, in which his title “Primada de las EspaÑas,” and the same word in “Santa Iglesia Primada,” were carefully scratched through in ink.

[267] EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xxv. p. 214.

[268] Historia de los Condes de Barcelona, p. 183.

[269] The Chapter-house at Fountains Abbey has one of the largest collections of masons’ marks I have ever seen, and in this case they are of much value, as proving how large was the number of skilled masons employed on this one small building at the same time. At Tarragona I saw nothing like the same variety of marks.

[270] See p. 388.

[271] See illustrations of these on the ground-plan of Tarragona Cathedral, Plate XV.

[272] See detail of this pavement on Plate XV.

[273] In 1278 M. BartolomÉ wrought nine figures of the Apostles for the faÇade; and in 1375 M. Jayme Castayls agreed to execute the remainder. His contract is made under the direction of Bernardo de Vallfogona, acting as architect to the Chapter, and father probably of the man of the same name who was consulted about Gerona cathedral, and who executed the reredos of the high altar at Tarragona in A.D. 1426, and died in A.D. 1436.

[274] The stalls of the Coro were executed between A.D. 1479 and 1493, by Francisco Gomar of Zaragoza.

[275] See the illustration of this marble pavement on Plate XV.

[276] Vallbona has a very fine Romanesque cruciform church with eastern apses and a low central octagonal lantern; Poblet was an early cross church with a fourteenth-century central lantern, and a cloister of the same age; and Sta. Creus is an early church with a fourteenth-century cloister, which has a projecting chapel with a fountain in it on one side similar to that at Veruela.—Parcerisa, Recuerdos, &c.

[277] There is a good inn here, the Fonda del Europa. But beware of the Fonda de los Cuatro Naciones, which is dirty and bad. Tarragona may be reached easily by steamboats from Barcelona. They go twice a week in five or six hours, I believe.

[278] He was buried here, and this inscription was formerly in the church: “Sub hac tribuna jacet corpus condam Wilfredi comitis filius Wilfredi, simili modo condam comitis bonÆ memoriÆ, Dimittat ei DÑs. Amen. Qui obiit, vi. Kal. Madii sub era DCCCCLII.” (A.D. 914).

[279] San Cucufate del VallÉs is not far from Barcelona; it has a fine early cloister somewhat like that of Gerona Cathedral, an early church with parallel triapsidal east end, octagonal lantern and tower on south side.—See illustrations in Parcerisa, Recuerdos, &c., de Esp. CataluÑa, ii. 23, &c.

[280] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 12.

[281] According to Ford it was built by Guillermo II., Patriarch of Jerusalem, in imitation of the church of the Holy Sepulchre.—Handbook for Travellers in Spain, p. 416. It was one of the churches founded by the Order of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem after the year 1141, in which they sent emissaries to Spain for the purpose.—Viage Literario Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xviii. 139. The necrology of the monastery contained the obit of a canon who came from Jerusalem, called Carfilio, as follows: “Obiit Caifilius frater Saucti Sepulchri, qui edificavit ecclesiam sanctÆ AnnÆ.—Viage Lit., xvii. 144. See ground-plan of this church on Plate XVII.

[283] The inscription on the right hand of this door is as follows:—

+ In: noie: DÑi: nri: Ihu : Xri: ad. honore. + Sce: Trinitatis: Pats. et. Filii. et. Sps. Sci. ac. Beate. Virginis: Marie. et Sce. crucis. Sce. q. Eulalie. Virginis. et. Martiris. Xri. ac. civis Barchn. cujus. som. corpus. in ista. requiescit. sede. opus. istius. ecce. fuit. inceptum. Kl. Madii aÑo. DÑi. M.CCXCVIII. regnate. illustrissimo. DÑo. Jacobo. rege. Aragonu. Valn. Sardinie. Corsice. + comite. Q. Barchinone.

The other inscription is on the left side of the same door:—

In. noie. DÑi. nri. Ihu. Xri. Kds. Novebr. anno. DÑi. M.CCC.XXIX. regnante. DÑo. Alfoso. rege. Aragonu. Valecie. Sardinie. Corsice. ac. comite. Barchn. opus. hujus. sedis. operabatur. ad. laude. Dei. ac. Bte. M Sce + Sceq. Eulaie.

[284] The inscription which records the depositing of the body of Sta. Eulalia in the crypt below the choir in A.D. 1339, says that “el Maestro” Jayme Fabra and the masons and workmen of the church, Juan Berguera, Juan de Puigmolton, Bononato Peregrin, Guillen Ballester, and Salvador Bertran, covered the urn with a tomb and canopy of stone.—Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 63. Diego, Historia de los Condes de Barcelona, pp. 298-301.

[285] “The directors of the work of the new temple,” says S. Furio (Diccionario historico de los Professores de las Bellas Artes en Mallorca, p. 55), “agreed to give to the architect, Master Jayme, eighteen sueldos a week for the whole of his life, as well when he was ill as well; and during the work, in case he should have to go on matters of business to Mallorca—his country—the Chapter bound themselves to pay him his travelling expenses and maintenance as well going as returning. They promised also to give a house rent free for him and his family, and two hundred sueldos annually for clothing for him and his children.

[286] Mr. Wyatt Papworth’s very learned and complete dissertation on this subject in the Transactions of the Royal Institute of British Architects may be referred to as the best paper that has been published on the architects of our old buildings. I shall reserve what I have to say on this subject for the last chapter of this volume.

[287] It is rather difficult to ascertain the exact value of the sums mentioned in these documents—a sueldo and a dinero being both disused. The former is said to have been a piece of eight maravedis, the latter a small copper coin. This at the present day would be only a little over threepence a day. In A.D. 1350 we find William de Hoton, the master-mason at York Minster, receiving 2s. 6d. a week—as nearly as may be the same wages that Roque received. Hoton had also a premium of 10l. a year and a house, and liberty to undertake other works. Fabric Rolls of York, Surtees Soc., p. 166. At Exeter, in the year 1300, Master Roger, the master-mason, received 30s. a quarter, or about 2s. 4d. a week. Fabric Rolls of Exeter, in Dr. Oliver’s Lives of the Bishops of Exeter, pp. 392-407.

[288] Given in EspaÑa Sagrada, xxix. p. 314, in facsimile. In the edition of 1859, engravings both of the shrine and of the crypt are given.

[289] Villanueva, Viage Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xviii. 157.

[290] The account of the building of Segovia Cathedral, given in the Appendix, mentions the provision of rooms for this purpose.

[291] Parcerisa, Recuerdos, &c., de EspaÑa. CataluÑa, i. 57.

[292] Viage Lit., xviii. 145.

[293] The lower range of stalls was made in 1457, by Matias Bonife, for fifteen florins for labour for each. In his contract with the Chapter he agrees to carve all the seats, but “in no wise any beasts or subjects.” In 1483 Miguel Loquer made the pinnacles of the upper stalls. The Chapter disputed the goodness of his work, and he died—partly of disgust, apparently—during the lengthy dispute. The Chapter then named arbiters, who, after a formal examination, pronounced them to contain grave defects.—Parcerisa, Recuerdos, &c., CataluÑa, i, p. 59.

[294] Here, in 1519, Charles V. celebrated an installation of the Golden Fleece—the only one ever held in Spain.—Ford’s Handbook, p. 413.

[295] Viage Lit., xviii. p. 142.

[297] In nomine DÑi nostri Jesu Christi ad honorem sanctÆ MariÆ fuit inceptum opus fabricÆ ecclesiÆ BeatÆ MariÆ de Mari die Annuntiationis ejusdem, viii. Kal. Aprilis Anno Domini MCCCXXVIII.

[298] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 61.

[299] Recuerdos, &c., CataluÑa, i. p. 66.

[302] Viage Literario Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xviii. 161.

[303] Arq. de EspaÑa.

[304] Recuerdos, &c., de EspaÑa, CataluÑa, vol. i.

[305] An inscription is given by Villanueva, Viage Literario, xviii. 162, said to be cut on the jamb of the side doorway, which records the consecration of this church on June 17th, 1453.

[306] See Appendix.

[307] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 55. But Diego, ‘Historia de los Condes de Barcelona,’ p. 316, puts the foundation in A.D. 1293.

[308] Villanueva, Viage Literario, xviii. 165, mentions the convent of San Francisco as still existing (in 1851).

[309] Parcerisa, Recuerdos, &c., CataluÑa, i. p. 107.

[310] See previous page.

[311] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., i. 70.

[312] Hala de paÑos.

[313] See EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. pp. 2-3. See also the deed executed by Bishop Roger in 1015. “Nostra necessitate coacti causa Ædificationis prÆdictÆ ecclesiÆ, quÆ satis cognitum cunctis est esse destructa, &c.”—Esp. Sag., xliii. p. 423.

[314] See the act of consecration, EspaÑa Sagrada, xliii. pp. 432-437, which declares the church to have been rebuilt “a fundamentis.”

[315] Esp. Sag., vol. xliv. p. 43.

[316] “Capitulum Gerundense in cerca nova ecclesiÆ Gerundensis more solito congregatum, statuit, voluit et ordinavit, quod caput ipsius ecclesiÆ de novo construeretur et edificaretur, et circumcirca ipsum novem cappellÆ fierent, et in dormitorio veteri fieret sacristia. Et cura ipsius operis fuit commissa per dictum capitulum, venerabilibus Raimundo de Vilarico, archidiacono, et Amaldo de Monterotundo, canonico.”—EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. p. 3.

[317] “Dimitto etiam ad caput prÆdictÆ ecclesiÆ, vel ad cimborium argenteum faciendum, desuper altare BeatÆ MariÆ ilia decem millia solidurum Barchinon: quÆ ad illud dare promisseram jam est diu.”—Will of Guillermo Gaufredo, Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vol. xii. p. 184.

[318] Esp. Sag., vol. xliv. pp. 51, 320, 322.

[319] “Pateat universis,” “quod die LunÆ 4 Idus Marti intitulata anno Domini 1346. Reverendus in Christo Pater” “S. Tarrachonensis ecclesiÆ archiepiscopus, altare majus BeatissimÆ Virginis MariÆ cathedralis Gerundensis ecclesiÆ a loco antiquo ipsius ecclesiÆ in quo construtum erat in capite novo operis ejusdem ut decuit translatum est,” &c. “De quibus omnibus ad perpetuam rei memoriam venerabilis vir Dominus Petrus Stephani Presbiter de capitulo et operarius memoratÆ ecclesiÆ mandavit unum et plura fieri instrumenta per me Notarium infrascriptum prÆsentibus ad hoc vocatis testibus,” &c. &c.—EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. pp. 373, 374.

[320] Or “sueldos,” Parcerisa. “Sous,” V. le Duc. = 1500 francs at the present day.

[321] Register entitled Curia del Vicariato de Gerona, Liber notulorum ab anno 1320, ad 1322, fol. 48, quoted in Esp. Sag. xlv. p. 373. See also Viollet le Duc, Dictionnaire RaisonnÉ, i. p. 112. F. J. Parcerisa, ‘Recuerdos y Bellezas de EspaÑa,’ CataluÑa, i. 146, says that the work was commenced in 1316, and that Enrique of Narbonne died in 1320.

[322] The list of architects given by D. J. Villanueva (Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xii. p. 172 et seq.) does not agree with this. The first he mentions is Jayme de Taverant, a Frenchman from Narbonne (and no doubt identical with Jaques de Favariis), in 1320. Francisco de Plana, a Catalan, held the post after him, and was removed in 1368 in favour of Pedro Coma (de Cumba), who was employed also at San Feliu, Gerona; and in 1397 Pedro de San Juan, “de natione PicardiÆ,” was employed. Guillermo Boffiy succeeded him; in 1427 Rollinus Vautier, “diocesi Biterrensis,” was master of the works, and in 1430 Pedro Cipres succeeded him.

[323] The original is in the Liber Notularum. It is reprinted in EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xlv., appendix, pp. 227 to 244. Cean Bermudez has again reprinted it in Arq. de EspaÑa, vol. i. pp. 261 to 275; and D. J. Villanueva in the appendix to vol. xii. of the Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, prints it in the original Catalan dialect.

[324] This key-stone has a sculpture of San Benito.—EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xliv. p. 420.

[326] EspaÑa Sagrada, xliii. p. 200, and Appendix, p. 453.

[327] In my first design for the Crimean Memorial church which I am building at Constantinople, I had a vault thirty-eight feet in clear span, and this was objected to by a really accomplished critic as too bold and hazardous an experiment! What would have been said then of a vault twice as wide?

[328] I subjoin the dimensions of some of the largest French and other churches, in order that the dimensions of the nave of Gerona may be really appreciated.

Albi 58 feet between the walls.
Toulouse Cathedral 63 do.
S. Jean PerpiÑan 60 do.
Amiens 49 centre to centre of column of nave.
Paris 48 do.
Bourges 49 do.
Chartres 50 do.
Cologne 44 do.
Narbonne 54 do.
Canterbury 43 do. do. of choir.
York 52 do. do. of nave.
Westminster Abbey 38 do.

[329] Liber Notularum, fol. 31.

[330] The church was originally intended to have octagonal towers at the angles of the west front. Of these the south-west tower has been built up in Pagan style, and the north-west has never been built.

[331] EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xlv. p. 8. Villanueva, Viage Lit., xii. 175, gives the name of this artist as Antonio Claperos “obrer de ymagens.”

[332] See the description of this silver frontal in EspaÑa Sagrada, vol. xlv. p. 8. The Historia de S. Narciso y de Gerona, by P. M. Roig y Yalpi, is quoted as authority for the statements given. See also the act of consecration of the cathedral in A.D. 1038 (EspaÑa Sagrada, xliii. p. 437), in which among the list of signatures at the end occurs the following passage:—“S. Ermessendis comitissÆ quÆ eadem die ad honorem Dei et Matris EcclesiÆ trescentas auri contulit uncias ad auream construendam tabulam;” and in a necrologium, from 1102 to 1313, occur the following entries: “1254. Pridie Kalendas Februarii obiit Guillelmus de Terradis, sacrista major, qui tabulam argenteam altari BeatÆ MariÆ Cathedralis fieri fecit.” “1229. Kalendis Martii obiit Ermesendis Comitissa quÆ hanc sedem ditavit et tabulam auream ac crucem Deo et BeatÆ MariÆ obtulit, et ecclesiam multis ornamentis ornavit.”

[333] “Hic jacet Amaldus de Solerio, Archidiaconus Bisalduenensis qui etiam suis expensis propriis fecit fieri cimborium seu coopertam argenteam super altaro majori ecclesiÆ Gerundensis. Obiit autem anno Dni. M.CCCXX. sexto, viii. Kal. Augusti.”

[334] See note3, p. 319.

[335] See Martene de Antiq. Eccl. Rit., lib. i. cap. iv. art. 3.

[336] “Galligans; in the old Latin, Galli Cautio. The name is taken from a little stream which washes its walls and falls into the OÑa.”—Don J. Villanueva, Viage Lit., &c., xiv. 146.

[337] See ground-plan on Plate XVIII.

[338] Don J. Villanueva, Viage Literario, xiv. p. 150, asserts that these cloisters are not earlier than the fourteenth century, though I notice that some of the inscriptions which he gives from them are of earlier date.

[339] Parcerisa describes this little church as that of S. Daniel, but I was unable on the spot to learn its dedication. I believe, however, that its dedication is to S. Nicolas, and that S. Daniel is a larger church of later date. In EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. p. 185 et seq., some account is given of the foundation of S. Daniel. This took place in 1017, Bishop Roger having sold the church to Count Ramon, and Ermesendis his wife, for 100 ounces of gold, which were to be spent on the fabric of the cathedral. The Countess, after the death of the Count, endowed the church, and the deed still preserved recounts how that “Ego Ermesendis inchoavi prÆdictam ecclesiam edificare et Deo auxiliante volo perficere.” An architectural description of the present church is given by Villanueva, Viage Literario, xiv. 158, from which it seems that it is a Greek cross in plan, and mainly of the fourteenth century, with an altar in a crypt below the high altar, constructed in 1343: and if this account is correct, this small twelfth-century church cannot be S. Daniel.

[340] S. Felix.

[341] EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. p. 41.

[342] Extract from the book entitled “Obra = Recepte et Expense, ab anno 1365;” It.: Solvi discº. R. Egidii Not. Gerunde v die Septembris, anno M.CCC.LX.VIII., pro instrumento facto inter Capitalum hujus Eccle. et P. Zacoma magistrum operis Cloquerii noviter incepti et est certum quod in isto instrumento continentur in efectu ista.—Pº, Quod ille proficue procuret ipsum opus dictum evitando expensas inordinatas quantum in ipso fuerit, et hoc juravit. It.: Quod aliud opus accipere non valeat sine licencia operarii. It.: Quod quotiescumque fuerit in ipso opere factus apparatus operandi quod vocatus quocumque opere dimisso operetur in nostro opere: in premissis fuit exceptum opus Pontis majoris in quo jam prius extitit obligatus et convenit quando ipso fuerit in ipso opere Pontis vel in alio quod una hora diei sine lexiare—videat illos qui operabuntur vel parabunt lapides desbrocar in ipso opere. Et est sibi concessum dare pro qualibet die faoner quod fuerit in opere predicto IIII SS. et uni ejus famulo I vel II secundum ministeria ipsorum.—It.: Ulteris ammatian dare sibi de gratia CXL SS. (sueldos), segons lo temps empero que obraran. Car per lo temps que no obraran en lo Cloquer ne en padrera no deu res pendrer mes deu esser dedecet dels dets CXL SS. pro rata temporis, et quantitatis.”—EspaÑa Sagrada, App., xlv. p. 248. See Spanish translation do., p. 73. In an old Kalendar, of Gerona, printed in EspaÑa Sagrada, xliv. p. 399, is the following paragraph, which refers to the works of Pedro Zacoma:—“An. 1368 fuit inceptus lo Pont non de mense Madii; Á 9 Aug. ejusdem anni fuit inceptus lo Cloquer de Saut Fehu.”

[343] A memorandum in the book of the ‘Obra,’ under date 1385, describes the various works in the fortification then in progress, and mentions “P. Comas, maestro mayor,” EspaÑa Sagrada, xlv. p. 45. Parcerisa, Recuerdos y Bellezas de EspaÑa, CataluÑa, says that the spire was finished in 1581. But I think he has been misled by some repairs of the steeple rendered necessary after the destruction of the upper part of the spire in this year by lightning, and mentioned in the Actas Capitulares.

[344] Roussillon belonged to the Kings of Aragon from A.D. 1178. PerpiÑan was taken, after a vigorous resistance, by Louis XI. in 1474, restored to Spain, and finally taken by the French in A.D. 1642.

[345] An illustration of this organ is given in M. Viollet le Duc’s Dictionary of French Architecture.

[346] Viage Literario Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vol. xiv. p. 106.

[347] Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vii. 179.

[349] Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vii. 180.

[350] The subjects are as follows:—

  • 1. The Marriage of the Blessed Virgin.
  • 2. The Annunciation.
  • 3. The Salutation.
  • 4. The Nativity.
  • 5. The Adoration of the Magi.
  • 6. The Flight into Egypt.
  • 7. The Presentation in the Temple.
  • 8. The Dispute with the Doctors.
  • 9. The Money-changers driven out of the Temple.
  • 10. The Crucifixion.
  • 11. The Entry into Jerusalem.
  • 12. The Last Supper.
  • 13. The Agony in the Garden.
  • 14. The Betrayal.
  • 15. Our Lord before Pilate.
  • 16. The Scourging.
  • 17. Our Lord bearing His Cross.
  • 18. The Resurrection.
  • 19. The Descent into Hell.

The subjects begin at the upper left-hand corner, and are continued from left to right, the subjects 1 to 9 being on the left, and 11 to 19 on the right of the Crucifixion.

[351] To those who know them I need hardly say that the remains of the Anglo-Saxon vestments found in S. Cuthbert’s tomb, and preserved at Durham, are perhaps the most exquisitely delicate works in existence—so delicate that a magnifying glass is necessary in order to understand at all the way in which the work has been done. This Florentine work, of a later age, quite makes up in art for what it lacks in minute delicacy of execution when compared with S. Cuthbert’s vestments.

[352] Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, ix. p. 17.

[353] I do not forget the successful defence of LÉrida, in the sixteenth century, against the Prince de CondÉ; it is one of which the people may well be proud: but this was before the desecration of the cathedral.

[354] Vol. xlvii. De la Santa Iglesia de LÉrida en su estado moderno. Su autor el Doctor Don Pedro Sainz de Baranda.

[355] I give a few notes from the rules of this church as agreed on at the Synods. In 1240: No priest to say mass more than once in a day, save in case of great necessity. Priests to administer the sacrament of penance in the sight of all in the church. Godchildren are prohibited from marrying the children of their god-parents of baptism or confirmation. Mendicants are forbidden to celebrate on portable altars (super archas). Clergy are ordered to have a piscina near the altar, where, after receiving, they may wash their hands and the chalice. In a Synod held in 1318, it is ordered that, as many corpses are interred in churches which ought not to be, for the future none shall be so save that of the patron, or of some one who has built a chapel or endowed a chaplain.

[356] “Anno Domini MCCIII. et xi. Cal. Aug. sub Innocentio Papa III. venerabili, Gombaldo huic ecclesiÆ presidente inclitus Rex Petrus II. et Ermengandus Comes Urgullen. primarium istius fabricÆ lapidem posuerunt, Berengario Obicionis operario existente. Petrus Percumba Magister et fabricator.”—Esp. Sag. xlvii, p. 17.

[357] Viage Lit., vol. xvi, p. 81.

[358] “Anno DÑi MCCLXXVIII. ii Cal. Novembris Dominus G. de Montecatheno ix Ilerd. Eps. consecravit hanc Eccm. et concessit xl dies indulgencie per omnes octavas et constituit ut festum dedicationis celebraretur semper in Dominica prima post festum S. Luce.”—EspaÑa Sagrada, xlvii. p. 33.

[359] Viage Lit., vol. xvi, p. 83.

[360] “Cum nos concesserimus dari operi claustri Ecclesie Sedis civitatis Illerde sex mille pedras somadals de petraria domus predicte de Gardenio: ideo vobis dicimus et mandamus quatenus dictas sex mille pedras de dicta petraria operario dicte Ecclesie recipere libere permitatis convertendas seu imponendas in opere supradicto. Datum Illerde duodecimo calendas Septembris anno Domini M.CCC.X.—Ex. Arch. reg. Barc. grat. 9 Jacob. II. fol. 145b.

[361] Esp. Sag., xlvii, p. 46.

[362] Ibid., p. 47.

[363] The inscription on this bell was as follows:—“Christus. Rex. venit. in. pace. et. Deus. homo. factus. est. Chtus. vincit. Chtus. regnat. Chtus. ab. omn. mal. nos. defendat. Fuit. factum. per magistrum. Joannem. Adam. anno. DÑi. 1418 in mense. Aprili.—Viage Lit. Á las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xvi. 89.

[364] See plan, Plate XX.

[365] There are said to be three doorways from the cloister to the church.—Viage Lit., xvi. 86.

[366] See reference to this porch at p. 349.

[367] As, e.g., at S. Etienne, Nevers.

[368] “During the episcopate of Romeo de Cescomes, 1361-80, the work of the principal altar was ordered to be concluded, and it was forbidden to say mass there from All Saints’ day till the following month of May, 1376.”

[369] See plan, Plate VIII.

[370] There is a very fair inn at LÉrida, the Parador de San Luis, pleasantly situated on the bank of the Segre; and the railway from Barcelona to Zaragoza, passing by LÉrida, makes it easy of access.

[371] Parcerisa, Recuerdos y Bellezas de EspaÑa, Aragon, p. 120.

[372] AlmudÉvar has a picturesque castle, with a chapel on its eastern side, but I was unable to examine it.

[373] Cean Bermudez (Arq. i. 83) says that the work was commenced in A.D. 1400, and not finished until A.D. 1515.

[374] See plan, Plate XXI.

[375] It will be seen that the plan is exactly the same as that of the church of Las Huelgas, Burgos (see Plate II.), and the cathedral at Tudela (Plate XXIV.).

[376] This reredos cost 5500 crowns (escudos) or libras jaquesas.—- Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 218.—Damian Forment is said to have studied under Donatello, which seems, however, on a comparison of dates, to have been all but impossible. The epitaph on his monument in the cloister here described him as “arte statuaria PhidiÆ, Praxitelisque Æmulus,” a statement which must be accepted with the reserve usual in such cases.—Bellas Artes en EspaÑa, ii. p. 132.

[377] See Ainsa, Historia de Huesca, lib. 4.

[378] See ground-plan on Plate XXI.

[379] Parcerisa, Aragon, p. 157.

[380] Views of Jaca and San Juan de la PeÑa are given by F. J. Parcerisa, ‘Recuerdos y Bellezas de EspaÑa,’ Aragon.

[381] Seu, Sedes, See.

[382] I am reminded by this of a curious passage of somewhat similar character in the life of Sir Christopher Wren, which is to be gathered out of the entries in the old parish books of St. Dionis Backchurch, Fenchurch-street. Here Sir Christopher built a steeple, and when it was nigh completion the grave question arose whether they should have an anchor for a weather-cock. Sir Christopher preferred it, and some of the parishioners, of course, opposed it. They appealed to the bishop, and after many interviews it was at last decided that the bishop should meet them at Sir Christopher’s at 8 o’clock a.m. to settle the matter, Sir Christopher’s “gentleman” (who was always treated to something to drink by the churchwarden when he came to the church) having made the engagement. The bishop was punctual to his appointment, but Sir Christopher seems to have gone out for an early walk and forgotten all about it; and finally, the Bishop of London, having waited an hour for the great man, retired in despair, but ordered Sir Christopher’s weathercock to be adopted.

[383] The following inscription on the Cimborio fixes the date of it’s completion: “Cimborium quo hoc in loco Benedictus Papa XIII. Hispanus, patria Arago, gente nobili Luna exstruxerat, vetustate collapsum, majori impensa erexit amplissimus, illustrisque Alphonsus Catholici Ferdinandi, CastellÆ, Arago, utriusque SiciliÆ regis filius, q. gloria finatur, anno 1520.”

[384] Don P. de la Escosura (EspaÑa Art. y Mon.), iii. 93, attributes this tower and the church to the twelfth century, but, I feel confident, without good ground for doing so, as far as the former is concerned.

[385] Vol. ii., plate 45.

[386] Madoz, xiv. pp. 595-599.

[388] The fact is worthy of record, because in these days, though it is often manifestly convenient to use a different material from that which was used by our ancestors, there are many well-disposed people who object to such a course, as being an unwarrantable departure from old precedents; yet, if our forefathers’ example is to be followed, we ought to do as they would have done in our circumstances.

[389] His name occurs in an inscription on it.

[390] Madoz, vol. xv. p. 685.

[392] See ground-plan, Plate XXIV.

[393] The lead flÊche in a similar position at Reims cathedral will no doubt be remembered by many of my readers. No doubt, however, this work at Tudela is earlier, and being of stone is even more remarkable.

[394] There is, I believe, a fine old bridge of seventeen arches over the Ebro, near Tudela: unfortunately I did not see it.

[395] See illustration on next page.

[396] I believe a portion of the old cloister remains. I was not aware of this, and seeing the fine late cloister, assumed, unfortunately, that there was nothing else to be seen.

[398] Arq. de EspaÑa, i. p. 83.

[399] See ground-plan on Plate XXV.

[400] Morales, lib. 12, cap. 76.

[401] See p. 212.

[402] Noticias de los Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 1-14.

[403] Esp. Sag., vol. xxxvii. p. 86-7.

[404] Recuerdos y Bellezas de Esp., Ast. y Leon, p. 76 and 244.

[405] See the account of it in the Historia Compostellana, lib. i. cap. 78.

[406] See p. 331. I am not certain as to the dedication. I refer to the small church near San Pedro de los Galligans.

[407] For illustration, &c., see p. 366, and Plate XXI.

[408] Both these churches are planned upon precisely the same system of proportions founded upon the equilateral triangle. Taking the width of the nave and aisles as the base, the apex of the triangle gives the centre from which the vault of the nave is struck; and all the subordinate divisions are also so exactly marked that there is hardly room for doubt that the system was distinctly recognised, and intentionally acted on.

[409] The Monistrol I refer to is the village between S. Etienne and Le Puy, and not the place of the same name at the foot of Monserrat, in CataluÑa.

[410] E.g., St. Albans, Winchester Cathedral, St. Cross Chapel.

[411] The parallel holds good in very small matters. At Westminster the clergy and choir assemble in the choir, and begin the service so soon as the clock strikes. In several Spanish churches the same custom obtains. I think it would be a great gain if the metal screens across the transepts were moved so as to form the narrow central passage from the choir to the altar, so common in Spain. They would then have some meaning and use, which they certainly have not now.

[413] The design of this chevet is almost a repetition of that of the church at AveniÈres, near Laval, which is said to have been commenced as early as A.D. 1040, though most of it is certainly later by a century than this.

[414] I might perhaps add Tarazona Cathedral to this list.

[415] See ground-plan, Plate XIV.

[416] The round portion of the Temple Church, London, has its aisle groined with alternate bays of square and triangular outline. The latter have no ribs, and are constructed differently from those at Toledo.

[417] Facsimile of the Sketch-book of Wilars de Honecort. Eng. edit. Edited by Professor Willis. Plate XXVIII.

[418] Beauvais cathedral was commenced in A.D. 1225.

[419] See the plan, Plate I. The chapel marked B is, I think, the only original one; and this repeated five times will probably give the exact plan of the original chevet.

[420] The commerce of the south of Spain with England was considerable; and it is just possible that some of the middle-pointed work in Valencia may have an English origin. The English sovereigns encouraged the Catalan traders by considerable immunities to frequent their ports during the fourteenth century.—Macpherson, ‘Annals of Commerce,’ i. 502, &c.

[421] I speak only of town churches here: our little English village churches are the most perfect in the world, so thoroughly characteristic, and at the same time so suitable for their work, that we may always study them with greater gain than any others elsewhere in Europe.

[422] See frontispiece. In so small an engraving—putting out of view the extreme difficulty of getting a faithful transcript of a careful sketch of sculpture—it is impossible to do justice to such a work; and I must ask my readers rather to accept my statement than to pass judgment by aid only of the illustration.

[423] See p. 283, and illustrations on ground-plan, Plate XV.

[424] See p. 366.

[425] See p. 381.

[426] See p. 215.

[427] See ground-plan, Plate IV.

[428] See illustration of this battlement at Las Huelgas, No. 4, page 38, and on the walls at Veruela, No. 48, page 384.

[429] ‘Annals of the Artists of Spain,’ 1848.

[430] The paintings at Leon seem to me to be such as one might expect at the hands of Dello Delli. He is said to have made Seville his place of residence during the many years that he spent in Spain. But the period of his abode there is just that during which the paintings at Leon were executed.

[431] See the short account of these painters in Mr. Stirling’s ‘Annals of the Artists of Spain,’ vol. i. chap. ii.

[432] I venture to regard the stern simplicity of Mr. Butterfield’s noble church of St. Alban as his silent protest against the vulgarity in art to which I here refer. Without any sculpture, this church is from first to last the work of a great master of his art, and one for which his brother artists owe him a great debt of gratitude.

[433] See Appendix. The maravedi was, I believe, a more valuable coin than it is now, so that it is difficult to say what amount of money at the present day this grant really represents.

[434] This inscription is referred to at p. 144.

[435] I do not know the meaning of this term; it is evidently the name of a trade or calling, and probably corresponds with “masons,” as distinguished from “wallers;” the two terms, “Lambardos” and “Cementarios,” being used somewhat in opposition to each other.

Cementarios is one of the earliest terms used in documents referring to English buildings, and no doubt would be properly translated by the word “mason;” but in the case of the Urgel contract, it seems there were to be several “Lambardos,” and, as “Cementarios” were only to be employed if absolutely necessary, there must have been some distinction between them, which was more probably of grade or degree than of profession. Possibly the “Lambardos” may have been members of a guild, “Cementarios” common masons.

[436] This contract is given by Don J. Villanueva, Viage Literario a las Iglesias de EspaÑa, vol. ix. pp. 298-300. I extract from it the parts which are especially interesting:—

Ego A. Dei Gratia Urgellensis episcopus, cum consilio et comuni voluntate omnium canonicorum Urgellensis ecclesiae, commendo tibi Raymundo Lambardo opus beatae Mariae, cum omnibus rebus tam mobilibus quam immobilibus, scilicet, mansos, alodia, vineas, census, et cum oblationibus oppressionum et penitentialium, et cum elemosinis fidelium, et cum numis clericorum, et cum omnibus illis, quae hucusque vel in antea aliquo titulo videntur spectasse sive spectare ad prephatum opus beatae Mariae. Et preterea damus tibi cibum canonicalem in omni vita tua, tali videlicet pacto, ut tu fideliter et sine omni enganno claudas nobis ecclesiam totam, et leves coclearia sive campanilia, unum filum super omnes voltas, et facias ipsum cugul bene et decenter cum omnibus sibi pertinentibus. Et Ego R. Lambardus convenio Domino Deo, et beatae Mariae, et domino episcopo, et omnibus clericis Urgellensis ecclesiae, qui modo ibi sunt, vel in antea erunt, quod hoc totum, sicut superius scriptum est, vit comite, perficiam ab hoc presenti Pascha, quod celebratur anno dominicae incarnationis M.º C.º LXXV.º, usque ad VII. annos fideliter, et sine omni enganno. Ita quod singulis annis habeam et teneam ad servitium beatae Mariae, me quinto, de Lambardis idest IIII. lambardos et me, et hoc in yeme et in estate indesinenter. Et si cum istis potero perficere, faciam, et si non potero addam tot cementarios, quod supra dictum opus consumetur in prephato termino. Post VII. vero annos, cum iam dictum opus, divina misercordi opitulante, complevero, habeam libere et quiete cibum meum dum vixero, et de honore operis et avere stem in voluntate et mandamento capituli postea. Preterea nos, tam episcopus, quam canonici, omnino prohibemus tibi Raymundo Lambardo, quod per te, vel per submisam personam, non alienes vel obliges aliqua occasione quicquam de honore operis, quae modo habet, vel in antea habebit. De tuo itaque honore, quem nomine tuo adquisisti, et de avere, fac in vita et in morte quod tibi placuerit post illud septennium. Si forte, quod absit, tanta esterilitas terrae incubuerit, quod te nimium videamus gravari, liceat nobis prephato termino addere secundum arbitrium nostrum, ne notam periurii incurras. Sed aliquis vel aliqui nostrum praedictam relaxationem sacramenti facere tibi non possit, nisi in pleno capitulo, comuni deliberatione et consensu omnium. Et quicquid melioraveris in honore operis, remaneat ad ipsum opus. Si vero pro melioracione honoris operis oporteret te aliquid impignorare vel comutare, non possis hoc facere sine consilio et conveniencia capituli. Juro ego R. Lambardus, quod hoc totum, sicut superius est scriptum, perficiam, et fidelitatem et indempnitatem canonicae beatae Mariae Urgellensis ecclesiae pro posse meo, per Deum, et haec sancta evangelia = Sig + num R. Lambardi, qui hoc iuro, claudo et confirmo = Sig + num domni Arnalli Urgellensis episcopi,” &c. &c.

[437] E.g. at San CristÓbal de Ibeas—

Eia M. C. LXX.
Fuit hoc opus fundatum
Martino Abbate regente
Petrus Christophorus
Magister hujus operis fuit.

Or another at Ciudad Rodrigo—

Aqui yace Benito Sanchez,
Maestro que fue de esta obra, e
Dios le perdone. Amen.

So too the inscription given at p. 234 of the architect of Toledo. The same term was used extensively at the same time over the greater part of Europe.

In France we have these among others:—“Ci git Robert de Couey, Maitre de Notre Dame et de Saint Nicaise, qui trÉpassa l’an 1311.” In A.D. 1251, at Rouen, “Walter de St. Hilaire, Cementarius, magister operis,” is mentioned; and in A.D. 1440, in the same city, we have this inscription: “Ci git M. Alexandre de Berneval, Maistre des Œuvres de Massonerie au Baillage de Rouen et de cette Église.” In Italy the same term was commonly used, as, e.g., in the Baptistery at Pisa, which has the inscription, “Deotisalvi magister hujus operis;” and again in the church at Mensano near Siena, which has “Opus quod videtis Bonusamicus magister fecit.” But in England, according to Mr. Wyatt Papworth, who has devoted much pains to the elucidation of the subject, the term “Master of the works” appears to be very seldom employed, and sometimes of the officer called the “operarius” in Spain, rather than of the architect.

[438] Villanueva, Viage Lit. xxi. 106.

[439] Fabre is spoken of in the inscription on the shrine as Jacobus “Majoricarum, cum suis consortibus.”

[440] These fabric rolls contain the names of Martin Mayol, G. Scardon, Bernardo Desdons, and Jayme Pelicer, as painters of pictures between A.D. 1327 and 1339.

[441] See p. 319.

[442] See p. 332.

[443] See p. 57.

[444] See p. 349, note 1.

[445] Villanueva, Viage Lit. a las Iglesias de EspaÑa, xvi. 99, says that “Lapicida” does not really mean a cutter of stones, which would be described as “pica petras.” In vol. xxi. p. 107, however, he speaks of “Lapicida” as the Latin term corresponding to “picapedres” in the vulgar tongue; and he says sculptors of figures called themselves “Imaginayres.”

[446] See p. 265.

[447] The contract is given at length by Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 257-61.

[448] See the translation of these documents in the Appendix.

[449] This sum would probably be equal to about 90l. or 100l. per annum at the present day.

[450] Other plans still preserved in Spain are, the original design for the church of San Juan de los Reyes, Toledo, and that for the west front of Barcelona Cathedral. I have tried in vain to obtain copies of these plans.

[451] Arq. de EspaÑa, i. 282-4.

[452] We have accidental evidence of the fact that HontaÑon was an architect, for the “Master of the Works” of La Magdalena, Valladolid, contracted in A.D. 1570 to build the tower and body of the church according to his plan for a specified sum. But it will be observed that the date of this agreement is very late, and that, whilst the maker of a plan had become an architect in the modern sense of the word, the Maestro Mayor had descended to be, in fact, nothing more than the contractor for the work, also in the modern sense. Somewhat in the same way, we know that when the lantern of Burgos Cathedral fell, in A.D. 1539, Felipe de Borgoua was summoned from Toledo to superintend the two cathedral masters of the works: from which it seems probable that they executed the work which Borgoua designed. So again at an earlier date, in A.D. 1375, Jayme Castayls executed some statues for the west front of Tarragona cathedral, under the direction of Bernardo de Vallfogona, the Maestro Mayor.

[453] Bellas Artes en EspaÑa. This catalogue of artists includes those who lived before the year 1500, the names of fifty sculptors, thirty painters, several silversmiths, workers in stained glass, and others.

[454] See p. 252.

[455] See p. 182.

[456] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., vol. i. p. 285.

[457] Cean Bermudez. Arq. de Esp., vol. i. p. 286.

[458] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de Esp., vol. i. p. 287.

[459] In the margin of this paragraph is written, in the hand of Maestro Juan del Ribero Rada,—“It has been built square.” The word ‘Trascoro’ seems to be used here of the east end of the church.

[460] From Cean Bermudez, Not. de los Arq. y Arquos de EspaÑa, vol. i. p. 293-299.

[461] The sense of this word is given in Connelly and Higgins’s Dictionary, as “the substitute of the chief architect of the building, who places the workmen and distributes the materials according to the arrangements of the plan.”

[462] Cean Bermudez, vol. i. p. 300.

[463] Ibid., vol. i. p. 315.

[464] Ibid., vol. i. p. 317.

[465] Sagrario.—This, I think, sometimes means the chapel, commonly called the Parroquia, or Chapel of the Cathedral Parish.

[466] This subject occurs in the well-known illustrations of Queen Mary’s Psalter, 2 B. VII., at the British Museum library. It is described as “Here GOD reposes on His throne with His angels.”

[467] This subject occurs in the ‘Biblia Pauperum,’ with the following inscription:—“Legitur in Apocalypsi xxiº Capº et in iiiº Ysaya xiiii Capº quod lucifer cecidit per superbiam de celo cum omnibus suis adherentibus.”

[468] This interrogatory, and the declarations of the twelve architects, are in the Catalan idiom in the original, and are translated into Castilian by Fr. JosÉ de la Canal, Esp. Sag. xiv. pp. 227-244. I have thought it best to give an English translation.

[469] “Cana,” a measure of two ells Flemish.

[470] A “cana” equals two yards and three inches Spanish measure.

[471] Cean Bermudez, Arq. de EspaÑa, i. pp. 276-279.

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