CONTENTS

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CHAPTER PAGE
STEPPING WESTWARD
I STEPPING WESTWARD 3
II BIFURCATED BUFFALO 21
III CLEVELAND CHARACTERISTICS 40
IV MORE CLEVELAND CHARACTERISTICS 48
MICHIGAN MEANDERINGS
V DETROIT THE DYNAMIC 65
VI AUTOMOBILES AND ART 77
VII THE MÆCENAS OF THE MOTOR 91
VIII THE CURIOUS CITY OF BATTLE CREEK 105
IX KALAMAZOO 121
X GRAND RAPIDS THE "ELECT" 127
CHICAGO
XI A MIDDLE-WESTERN MIRACLE 139
XII FIELD'S AND THE "TRIBUNE" 150
XIII THE STOCKYARDS 164
XIV THE HONORABLE HINKY DINK 173
XV AN OLYMPIAN PLAN 181
XVI LOOKING BACKWARD 187
"IN MIZZOURA"
XVII SOMNOLENT ST. LOUIS 201
XVIII THE FINER SIDE 221
XIX HANNIBAL AND MARK TWAIN 237
XX PIKE AND POKER 253
XXI OLD RIVER DAYS 267
THE BEGINNING OF THE WEST
XXII KANSAS CITY 275
XXIII ODDS AND ENDS 291
XXIV COLONEL NELSON'S "STAR" 302
XXV KEEPING A PROMISE 313
XXVI THE TAME LION 323
XXVII KANSAS JOURNALISM 337
XXVIII A COLLEGE TOWN 345
XXIX MONOTONY 365
THE MOUNTAINS AND THE COAST
XXX UNDER PIKE'S PEAK 379
XXXI HITTING A HIGH SPOT 400
XXXII COLORADO SPRINGS 417
XXXIII CRIPPLE CREEK 434
XXXIV THE MORMON CAPITAL 439
XXXV THE SMITHS 454
XXXVI PASSING PICTURES 465
XXXVII SAN FRANCISCO 474
XXXVIII "BEFORE THE FIRE"

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