CONTENTS

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CHAPTER I
PAGE
Montevideo 1
Experience in landing. Population of the city. Conservativeness of the inhabitants. Gambling establishment at Playa Ramirez. Train ride to Colonia.
CHAPTER II
Buenos Aires 21
Population of the city. Streets and architecture. High cost of living. Hotels. Beverages. Street beggars and vagabonds. Mariano Moreno College. Habit of not bathing. Jews. La Plata.
CHAPTER III
San Luis 62
Appearance of the city. Capitol. Plazas. Hotels. Neighboring country. Character of the natives. Train ride to Mendoza.
CHAPTER IV
Mendoza 78
Viticulture. Fruit growing. Wheat. Population and appearance of the city. Earthquake of 1861. Cerrito de la Gloria. Hotels. Aconcagua. Cacheuta. Across the Andes. Arrival in town of Los Andes.
CHAPTER V
Salta and TucumÁn 101
Train ride to Salta. Lerma Valley. Province of Salta. Chuchu fever. Population of the city of Salta. 20th of February Club. Churches and San Francisco Monastery. Population of the city of TucumÁn. Capitol. Governor Padilla. Heat of the city. Hotel Savoy. Kirwin the photographer. Villa NouguÉs.
CHAPTER VI
CÓrdoba 130
Province of CÓrdoba. Description of the city of CÓrdoba. Great number of consumptives. Breweries. Streets, religious edifices, and hotels. Sierra de CÓrdoba. Cosquin. Locust pest. Rosario; its hotels. Pergamino. Mercedes.
CHAPTER VII
Asuncion 155
Train ride from Buenos Aires. Population of Paraguayan districts and towns. Don Eduardo Schaerer. Currency. Colonnades. Pavement of Asuncion's streets. Oratory of Lopez. Climate, rains, and reptiles. Madame Lynch. Hotels. Mangrullo Cemetery. Market-place. Cigars. Low cost of living. Asuncene womanhood. Unmorality. Ypacara-i.
CHAPTER VIII
To the Source of the Paraguay River 195
River scenery. Villa Concepcion. San Salvador. State of Matto Grosso. CorumbÁ. Lawlessness. By water to CuyabÁ. City of CuyabÁ. Huber. Detour to source of river. Bog and pool. Huber becomes ill; his death. Diamantino. Return to Buenos Aires by river. Yerba matÉ.
CHAPTER IX
Santiago 226
Republic of Chile. Central Valley. Longitudinal railways. Paucity of factories. Breweries. The Chileno. Illegitimacy. Fiesta of the Angelito. Reception in Santiago. Compactness of the city; its streets. Installation of the president. Military parade. American ambassador. Hotels. High death rate. General Cemetery. Apoquindo.
CHAPTER X
Baths of Cauquenes. ChiloÉ Island. Lake Nahuel. Huapi 263
Rancagua. Baths of Cauquenes. Hostelry. Horseback ride to Los Lirios. Linares. PanimÁvida. Araucania and its native inhabitants. Temuco. Valdivia. Osorno. Fire at Osorno. Ancud. Castro. Lake Llanquihue. El Tronador Puella. Puerto Blest. Lake Nahuel Huapi. San Carlos de Bariloche.
CHAPTER XI
ChillÁn. Ascent of the Volcano ChillÁn 312
Description of the city. Hotel de France. Earthquake. ChillÁn Viejo. Birthplace of O'Higgins. Journey to Las Termas de ChillÁn. Establishment of Las Termas. Gambling. Episode of the administrator's brother. Snowfields and glaciers. Eruption of volcano. Don Vicente Mendez U. CuricÓ.
CHAPTER XII
Northward to Antofagasta by Rail. CopiapÓ, Antofagasta, and Iquique 347
Greenberg's adventure. San Felipe. Jahuel. Palm groves. Choapa Valley. Illapel. La Serena. Vallenar. Oasis of CopiapÓ. Retrogressant provincial capital. Professor Platner. Desert. Prosperity of Antofagasta. Strict prohibition laws. Bubonic plague. Pestilential Tocopilla. Description of Iquique.
CHAPTER XIII
Arica to Ilo Overland, via Tacna, Tarata, and Moquegua. Mollendo 387
Dr. Petit. Morro of Arica. Dispute between Chile and Peru over Tacna and Arica. Architect Pitaud. Description of Tacna. Peculiar architecture. Hotel Raiteri. Don Santiago Carmona. Caplina Valley. Ascending the Andes, Tarata. Parish priest. Tales of buried treasure. Hacienda Carmona. Ticalco and Sama Valleys. Stupidity of Peruvian jefe politico. Ilabaya. Dishonest cholo and Prat's spree. Don JosÉ Vergara. Moquegua. Ilo. Stinking Mollendo. Arrival at Callao.
CHAPTER XIV
Lima 434
Architecture of Callao. Mixed population of Lima and its seaport. Origin of Lima. Rimac River. Interesting city. Its population. Confusion of street names. Concepcion Market. Religious edifices and procession of El Milagro. Hotels and cafÉs. Difficulty in getting money changed. Crookedness of post office officials. General Cemetery. Viceroys of Peru.
CHAPTER XV
Across the Cordillera to the Rio Tambo 470
Departure from Oroya. Acro

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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