  A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Y Z Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv ABDOMEN, sow’s udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance ABROTANUM, —ONUM, —ONUS the herb lad’s love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. ? 3, also APSINTHIUM ABSINTHIATUS, —UM, flavored with wormwood, ? 3 ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. ? 3 ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ? 3 ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, ? 138, 139, 147 ACETABULUM, a “vinegar” cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see Measures ACETUM, vinegar ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones ACINUS, —UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, ? 145; also see STYRIO ACOR, —UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste ACUS, same as ACICULA Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138 ADULTERAM, “tempting” dish, ? 192 Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; ? 6, 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive Advertising cooked ham, ? 287 Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6 Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. 5-6 AENEUM, a “metal” cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141 Aethiopian Cumin ? 35 “AFFE” (Ger.) Monkey; ? 55; also see Caramel Coloring AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs) AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. ? 291 seq., 355, 364, 495 AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer Albino, writer, p. 10 ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; —— OVORUM, the “whites” of egg; —— PIPER, white pepper, etc. Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury Alexandrine dishes ? 75, 348, seq. ALICA, spelt. ? 200 ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purÉe of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. ? 57 AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; ? 57, 59 Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil AMYGDALA (—UM) Almonds, ? 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7 ANAS, a duck or drake; ? 212-17. ANATEM, ? 212; ANATEM EX RAPIS, ? 214 Anchovy, a small fish; ? 147; cf. APUA. —— forcemeat, ? 138; —— sauce and GARUM (which see) ? 37; —— omelette ? 147 ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise ANGULARUS, a “square” dish or pan ANISUM, anise, pimpinella ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, ? 234; —— JUS CANDIDUM ? 228 ANTIPASTO, “Before the Meal,” modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil APER, see APRUS APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO Aphricocks, ? 295 APHROS, ? 295 APHYA, see APUA Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9 Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252 Apicius, pp. 7, 9 Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9 APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. ? 104 APOTHERMA (—UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. ? 57; cf. TISANA APPARATUS, preparation; —— MENSAE, getting dinner ready Appetizers. ? 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The “moveable appetizer” of Apicius is very elaborate, p. 210 Appert, FranÇois, ? 24, father of the modern canning methods Apples, ? 22, 171 AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; —— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, rain w. AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks’ names ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon ARTOCREAS, meat pie ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM Asa foetida, use of —— ? 15, p. 23 ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, ? 72, —— and figpecker, ? 132, —— custard pie, ? 133 ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. ? 266-270 ASSUS, roast ASTACUS, a crab or lobster Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq. Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158 ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. ? 218, seq. AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ? 157, 461, 462 AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ? 229-30, —— NE LIQUESCANT, ? 233 BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; —— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, etc. Bacon, ? 285-90; see also SALSUM BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. ? 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ——, FABAE, etc. ? 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, ? 431 Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 Bantam Chicken, ? 237 Barracuda, a fish, ? 158 BARRICA, ? 173 BarthÉlemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8 Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270 BASILICUM, basil Bavarian Cabbage, ? 87 Beans, ? 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green —— ? 247; —— sautÉ, ? 203; —— in mustard, ? 204 Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio Beef, p. 30; shortage of —— diet, p. 30 Beets, ? 70, 97, 98, 183 Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258 Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq. BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, ? 70 Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana Birds, Book VI, ? 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling —— ? 229, 230 BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters Boiled Dinners, ? 125 BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ? 183 Bordelaise, ? 351 Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268 BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ? 60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, ? 60, 61, 172 BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ? 431, 481 Bouquet garni, ? 138 BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater Brain Sausage, ? 45 Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ? 29, 170, p. 273 BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; —— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, sea kale (?) Bread, Alexandrine, ? 126; Picentian ——, ? 125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234 Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ? 376 Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182 Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ——, ? 172, 200, 201 BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s bread, hard tack BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ? 285, 304-8 BULBI FRICTI, ? 308 BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR CABBAGE, ? 87-92, 103; p. 188 CAELIUS, see Coelius Calamary, cuttlefish, ? 405, p. 343 CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress CALLUM, CALLUS (—— PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. ? 9, 251, 255 CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, ? 3, where Vermouth was made CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, ? 43 CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen CANCER, crab Canning, ? 23-24 CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274 CAPON, ? 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, ? 166 CAPPAR, caper CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca CAPPARUS, CARABUS, ? 397 CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; ? 346-8 CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress Cardoons, ? 112-4 CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, ? 112-3 CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. ? 35 CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway CARICA (—— FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, which see CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; ? 35 CARO, flesh of animals, ? 10; —— SALSA, pickled meat CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; ? 121-3 CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage CARYOPHYLLUS, clove Casa di Forno, Pompeii, “House of the Oven,” illustration, p. 2 CASTANEA, chestnut, ? 183 seq. Catesby, writer, ? 322 Catfish, ? 426 CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia Caul Sausage, Kromeski, ? 45 CAULICULOS, ? 87-92; also Col— cul— and coliclus Cauliflower, ? 87 Caviare, see STYRIO Celery, ? 104 Celsinus, a Roman, ? 376-7 —— AUGURALIS, —— PONTIFICALIS, —— CAPITOLINA, —— PERSICA, ——SYBARITICA, —— CAMPANAE, —— CEREALIS, —— SALIARIS, ——TRIUMPHALIS, —— POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it —— PHILOSOPHICA, —— PLATONICA, —— LACONICA, —— RUSTICA, ——CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the —— ICCI is that of a downright miser. —— HECATES is a hectic meal, ——TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, —— DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a —— SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner —— NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. —— DUBIA, ? 139, is the “doubtful meal” The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had “earned” a bite There are further CENAE, such as —— DAPSILIS, —— PELLOCIBILIS, —— UNCTA, —— EPULARIS, —— REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, ? 46 CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus CERVUS, stag, venison, ? 339-45 Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII CHAMAE, cockles Chamois, ? 346 seq. Charcoal used for filtering, ? 1 CHARTREUSE, ? 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian monks and CarÊme “Chasseur,” ? 263 Cheese, cottage, ? 303; also see CASEUS Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I Chestnuts, ? 183-84a Chicken, PULLUS Chimneys on pies, ? 141 Chipolata garniture, ? 378 CHOENIX, a measure,—2 SEXTARII, ? 52 Chops, ? 261 CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, ? 92 Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38 CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, ? 207-209 Cicero, famous Roman, ? 409 CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke CINNAMONUM, cinnamon CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, ? 65 CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM CITREUS, citron tree CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17 CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough CNECON, ? 16 CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, “cockles,” periwinkles, COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook COCULUM, a cooking vessel COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see COLADIUM, —EDIUM, —ESIUM, —OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see Colander, illustration of a, p. 58 COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, ? 87-92 COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. ? 73 COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58 COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, —A, squab, ? 220. Also used as an endearing term Columella, writer on agriculture; —— on bulbs, ? 307; —— mentioning Matius, ? 167 COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives “swimming” in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool Combination of dishes, ? 46 Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272 Commodus, a Roman, ? 197 CompÔte of early fruit, ? 177 CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked “in the shell” or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; ? 194-98, 411. —— APICIANA, ? 195; —— DE PISA, ? 196; —— COMMODIANA, ? 197; —— FARSILIS, ? 199 CONCHICLATUS, ? 199 CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer CONYZA, the viscous elecampane The cook’s work place (formerly ATRIUM, the “black” smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth The German and Swedish for “kitchen” are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words “cook” and “KOCH” are directly related to COQUUS A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek—“MAGEIROS”—plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself “chief cook,” although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb “to knead,” which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, “that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors.” The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two “ENTREMETIERS.” The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA—what’s the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, “Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!” Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, “What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?” From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the “maÎtre d’hÔtel” of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. “The RÔle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks” by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and “Roman Cooks” by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273 COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7 COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, ? 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355 Copper in Vegetable Cookery, ? 66 Copyists and their work, p. 14 COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, —IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, —IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook COR, heart CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract Corn, green, ? 99 CORNUTUS, horn-fish, ? 442 CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus COTANA, see COCTANA COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig’s tails COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, ? 163 COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, ½ sextarius COTURNIX, quail COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor Court-bouillon, ? 37, 138 Cow-parsnips, p. 188, ? 115-122, 183 COXA, ? 288 Crabs, ? 485; crabmeat croquettes, ? 44 Crane, ? 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, ? 214-17 CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182 CREMORE, DE—, ? 172 CRETICUM HYSOPUM, ? 29, Cretan hyssop CROCUS, —OS, —ON, —UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron Croquettes, ? 42, seq. Cucumber, CUCUMIS, ? 82-84 CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, ? 73-80, 136 CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, ? 237 Cumberland sauce, ? 345 CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, —US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, ? 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, ? 178 CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a “cooper” is a man who makes them CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric Custard, brain, ? 27; —— nut, ? 128, 142; —— of vegetables and brain, ? 130; —— of elderberries, ? 134; —— rose, ? 135; see also ? 301 Cuttle-fish, ? 42, 406-8 CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, ? 131 CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, ? 163, see also Malus CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, ? 87-9-92 CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene DACTYLIS, long, “finger-like” grape or raisin; —US, long date, fruit of a date tree, ? 30 DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, ? 30. Either fresh or dried Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271 Dates, stuffed, ? 294 DAUCUM, —US, —ON, a carrot DE CHINE, see Dasheen “Decline of the West,” p. 17 DECOQUO, to boil down DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, “Tooth-Fish,” ? 157, 459-60 Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125 Desserts, absent, p. 43 Desserts, Apician, ? 143, 294, seq. DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, ? 432 Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252 Didius Julianus, ? 178 Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273 Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37 Diocles, writer, ? 409 Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141 Dipper, illustrated, p. 3 Disguising foods, ? 133, pp. 33-4 Distillation, see Vinum Dormouse, ? 396 Doves, p. 265 Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8 Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16 Duck, p. 265, ? 212-3; —— with turnips, ? 214-7 DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, ? 16, 216, 294-6 Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24 Dumpling of pheasant, ? 48; —— and HYDROGARUM, ? 49; —— with broth, plain, ? 52, 181 DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; —— PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, ? 28 Early fruit, stewed, ? 177 ECHINUS, sea-urchin, ? 412-17 Economical methods: flavoring, ? 15 EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton EDULA, chitterlings Eel, ? 466-7 Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93 Eggs, ? 326-28; —— fried, ? 336; —— boiled, ? 327; —— poached, ? 328; —— scrambled with fish and oysters, ? 159 Eglantine, ? 171 Egyptian Bean, ? 322; also see CYAMUS ELAEOGARUM, ? 33 Elderberry custard, ? 135 ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. —US, —UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish “covered over”; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, ? 431 Endives, ? 109 Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana EntrÉes, potted, ? 54, 55; —— sauces, ? 56; —— of fish, poultry and sausage, ? 139; —— of fowl and livers, ? 175 EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273 ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, ? 338 ESCULENTES, things good to eat ESTRIX, she-glutton ESUS, eating EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235 Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234 EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats) FABA, bean, pulse. —— AEGYPTIACA, ? 322; —— IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; —— VITELLIANA, ? 189, 193 FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, ? 202; —— FRICTAE, ? 203; —— EX SINAPI, ? 204 Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268 “Fakers” of manuscripts, p. 13 FALSCHER HASE, ? 384 FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal Farce, forcemeat, ? 131 FARCIMEN, sausage, ? 62-64 FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten FARINA, meal, flour, ? 173; —OSUS, mealy FARNEI FUNGI, ? 309 FARRICA, ? 173 FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, ? 207 FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, ? 131 FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, ? 166, 366 FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, ? 166, 366 FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, ? 206 FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ? 259-60 FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ? 132 FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig Field herbs, ? 107; Field salad, ? 110; a dish of field vegetables, ? 134 Fieldfare, a bird, ? 497 Figpecker, a bird, ? 132 Figs, to preserve, ? 22 Filets Mignons, ? 262 Filtering liquors, ? 1 FinanciÈre garniture, ? 166, 378 Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ? 147 Fine spiced wine, ? 1 Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of Book X; —— boiled, ? 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; —— fried, herb Flaccus, a Roman, ? 372 Flamingo, ? 220, 231-2 Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ? 323, 396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182 FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, ? 114, 121 Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34 Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, ? 6, 7, 134, 147; Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, ? 470; —— and livers, ? 174; various dishes and sauce, ? 218, seq. Picking ——, ? 233; Removing disagreeable odors from ——, ? 229-30 French Dressing, ? 112 French Toast, ? 296 FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ? 131 FRITTO MISTO (It.), ? 46 Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ? 42, seq. FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156 FRUGES, farinaceous dishes Fruit dishes, ? 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; —— dried, Summary, p. 370 FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley Frying, ? 42, seq. Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS —— FARNEI, ? 309, seq. FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2 GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, poulterer GALLUS, cock Game of all kinds, sauce for, ? 349 GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ? 153 GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see Gardener, The—Title of Book III, ? 377 Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G. G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the “vile concoctions,” but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc. —— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257 Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261 Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see Schola Apitiana, p. 206 GETHYUM, —ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273 GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the “G” by medieval scribes GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc. Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ? 127 GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, ? 396 Gluttons, p. 11 Goat, wild, ? 346, seq. —— liver, ? 291-3 Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270 GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151 Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, ? 228 Grapes, to keep, ? 19 Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq. Greek monographs, p. 43 Green beans, p. 247, ? 202, 206 Greens, green vegetables, ? 99 Grimod de la ReyniÈre, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa Gruel, p. 210; ? 172, 200-1, seq. —— and wine, ? 179-80 GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ? 212-3; —— EX RAPIS, ? 215-6 Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263 GuÉgan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq. GULA, gluttony Habs, R., writer, p. 18 HALEC, see ALEC HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356 HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60 HAPANTAMYNOS, ? 497 Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ? 28 Hare, B. VIII, ? 382, seq. —— imitation, ? 384; —— braised, ? 382-3; —— different dressings, ? 383; —— Stuffed, ? 384, 91; —— white sauce for, ? 385; —— lights of, ? 386-7; —— liver, ? 170; —— in its own broth, ? 388; —— smoked Passenianus, ? 389; —— tidbits, kromeskis, ? 390; —— boiled, ? 393; —— spiced sauce, ? 393; —— sumptuous style, ? 394; —— spiced, ? 395 Haricot of lamb, ? 355 HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence “harpoon.” Cf. FURCA “Haut-goÛt” in birds, to overcome it, ? 229-30 Headcheese, ? 125 Heathcock, ? 218, seq. HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11 Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156 HERBAE RUSTICAE, ? 107 Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ? 25 Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43 Hip, dog-briar, ? 171 HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ? 229-30 Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ? 323, 396, who raised animals for the table HISPANUM, see Oleum HOEDUS, see HAEDUS HOLERA, pot herbs, ? 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, ? 99 Home-made sweets, ? 294 Honey cakes, ? 16 Honey Refresher, ? 2; —— cake, ? 16; —— to renew spoiled, ? 17; testing quality of, ? 18; —— pap, ? 181; see also Chap. XIII, Book VII Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, ? 455 HORDEUM, barley Horned fish, ? 442 Hors d’oeuvres, ? 174; cf. GUSTUS HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ? 378 House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ? 307; title page of his 1542 edition, p. 265 Hunter style, ? 263 HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and water, ? 172 HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, ? 35 HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, ? 29 IECUR, JECUR, liver; ? 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19 Ill-smelling fish sauce, ? 9; ditto birds, ? 229-30 Indian peas, ? 187 Ink-fish, ? 405 INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, ? 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; —ARIUS, sausage maker INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, ? 109 INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort Italian Salad, ? 123 IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I. JardiniÈre, ? 378 JECINORA, ? 291 Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ? 205 Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261 John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel Julian Meal Mush, ? 178 Keeping meat and fish, ? 10-14, seq. Kettner, writer, p. 38 Kidney beans, ? 207-8 King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267 Kromeskis, ? 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24 LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ? 147, 152, 455-7 LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, dairyman LACTES, small guts, chitterlings LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ? 105, 109-11 LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle Lamb, ? 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last Will,” ? 376 Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30 Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41 Langoust, ? 485 LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ? 455 LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, ? 26 Larding, ? 394 LARIDUM, LARDUM, ? 147, 290; cf. SALSUM There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, ? 15 LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, ? 365, 373 LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf La Varenne, French cook, p. 16 Leeks, p. 188, ? 93-6; —— and beans, ? 96 LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book V LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ? 183-4 LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress LEPOREM MADIDUM, ? 382, seq. —— FARSUM, ? 384; —— PASSENIANUM, ? 389; —— ISICIATUM, ? 390; —— FARSILEM, ? 391; —— ELIXIUM, ? 392; —— SICCO SPARSUM, ? 394; —— LEPORIS CONDITURA, ? 393-5 LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ? 382-395 Lettuce, B. V, ? 105, 109-111; —— and endives, ? 109; —— purÉe of, ? 130 LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, ? 250 Lex Fannia, ? 166 Liaison, liÉ, ? 54; cf. AMYLARE LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, ? 251 LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc. LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370 Liquids, Summary of, p. 370 Liver kromeskis, ? 44; fig-fed, of pig, ? 259-60; —— and lungs, ? 291-3; —— hash, ? 293; —— of fish, see GARUM and Pollio Lobster, ? 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ? 42, 405 LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, ? 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, ? 61; see also LONGANO Lucretian Dish, ? 151 Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C. LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ? 286; LUMBELLI, ? 255 Lung, ? 291-2 LUPINUS, lupine LUPUS, fish, ? 158 MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher MACELLUM, market MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated MACTRA, trough for kneading dough MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS Mallows, ? 86 MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. ? 18, 20. See also CITRUM It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery MALUM PUNICUM, ? 20, 21; —— CYDONIUM, ? 21; —— GRANATUM, ? 20; —— MEDICUM, ? 24; —— ROSEUM, ? 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as “Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la ReyniÈre, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age Marcellus, a Roman physician, ? 29 MARJORANA, marjoram Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342 MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound Martial, writer, p. 10, ? 307, 461 (on bulbs) Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935 Mason, Mrs., a writer, ? 126 MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M. Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, ? 167; apples named after him, ibid. MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, ? 126, 480 Meal mush, Book V, ? 178 Meat ball, ? 261, seq. —— with laser, ? 472-3; meat, boiled, stewed, ? 271; keeping of, ? 10, 13; how to make pickled meat sweet, ? 12; to decorate or garnish, ? 394, (see marinade); meat pudding, ? 42; —— loaf, ? 384, 172 Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient —— diet, p. 31; ancient —— supply, p. 31 Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31 Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31 Medicinal formulae in Apicius, ? 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70, 71, 108, 111, 307 Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266 MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey MELCAE, ? 294, 303 MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, ? 2 MELO, small melon, B. III, ? 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon Melon, ? 85 MENSA, repast, see CENA “Menu,” cf. Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. 235 Merling, see MERULA MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, “mere,” “merely”; hence MERUM VINUM, —— OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc. Milan edition, Colophon, p. 260 Milk Toast, ? 171 Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. 60 Minced dishes, Book II Mineral salts in vegetables, ? 71, 96 MINUTAL, a “small” dish, a “minutely” cut mince; —— MARINUM, ? 164; —— TARENTINUM, ? 165; —— APICIANUM, ? 166; —— MATIANUM, ? 167; —— DULCE, ? 168; —— EX PRAECOQUIS, ? 169; —— LEPORINUM, ? 170; —— EX ROSIS, ? 171; —— of large fruits, ? 169 MITULIS, IN, ? 418 Mixing bowls, see Crater Monk’s Rhubarb, ? 26 “Monkey,” ? 55 Moralists, ancient, see Review MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, etc., cf. ? 38 Morsels, ? 261, seq., 309, seq. MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, ? 38, 221 MUGIL, sea-mullet, ? 159, 419, 424, 425 Mulberries, ? 24 Mullet, see MULLUS, ? 148, 428, 443-4 MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; —— ACETUM, honey-vinegar Munich Ms. XVIII Apiciana MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. 356, ? 448-53, 484 MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish Mush, ? 178 Mushrooms, B. III, ? 121, 309-14; —— Omelette, ? 314 Muskrat, ? 396 Mussels, ? 418 MUSTEIS PETASONEM, ? 289 MUSTEOS AFROS, ? 295 MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; —— VINUM, must, new wine; —— OLEI, new oil MYRISTICA, nutmeg MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called “pepper” and so used instead of pepper MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice NAPKINS, individual, see MAPPA NAPUS, p. 188, a turnip, navew, ? 100-1 NASTURTIUM, the herb cress NECHON, ? 16 Neck, roast, ? 270 NEPATA, cat-mint; —— MONTANA, mountain mint; see MENTHA Nero, emperor, p. 11 Nettles, ? 108 New York codex, No. I, Apiciana Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. 8, p. 268 NITRIUM, ? 66 NOVENDIALES, see CENA NUCEA LASERIS, ? 16; also see LASER NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, ? 92 NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, guinea hen, which see Nut custard, turn-over, ? 129, 143; —— porridge, ? 297-9; —— pudding, ? 298, 299, 230; —— meal mush, ? 300 Nuts, Summary of, p. 236 NUX, p. 236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; —— JUGLANDIS, walnut; —— PINEIS, —— PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; —— MUSCATA, nutmeg OBLIGABIS, ? 83; also see AMYLARE OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, OPSON OBSONATOR, steward OBSONIUM, OP—, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread OCIMUM, —YMUM, —UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of clover OENOGARUM, wine and GARUM (which see), a wine sauce, ? 33, 146, 465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O. OENOMELI, wine and honey OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer’s place, who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a “Hamburger Steak,” a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, collop, also various other “dainty” dishes, consisting principally of meat “INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT”—Cato; the ancient equivalent for our “’twixt cup and lip there is many a slip” ? 261; —— APICIANA, ? 262; —— APRUGNEA MORE, ? 263; —— ALIAE, ? 264-5; —— LASERATA, ? 271; —— GARATAS, ? 471-74; —— ASSAS, ? 472, 473 Oil substitute, ? 9; —— oil, to clarify for frying ? 250 OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, ? 99; see OLUS OLIVA, olive, ? 30, 91; to keep olives green, ? 30 OLUSATRUM, see OLUS Omelette with sardines, ? 146; —— with mushrooms, ? 314; —— SoufflÉe, ? 302 OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, ? 43, 47 Onions, ? 304-8 OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover Opossum, ? 396 ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; —— origany; —— VINUM, wine flavored with O. ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see RISUM OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of Book V Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, ? 261, are the ancient “Hamburgers”; this seems to confirm the assumption that the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls OSTREA, oyster, ? 15, 410; —RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place for keeping oysters Ostrich, ? 210-11 Oval pan, illustration, p. 159 Oval service dish, p. 43 Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, ? 348-50 OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, ? 302 OXALIS, sorrel OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine Oxford Mss., Apiciana X, XI OXYGALA, curdled with curds OXYGARUM, vinegar and GARUM, which see, ? 36, 37 OXYPORUS, easily digested, ? 34 OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc. Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, ? 41 Oysters, how to keep, ? 14, 410, 411 Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. 158 PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots PALUMBA, wood pigeon, ? 220 Pan with decorated handle, p. 73 Panada, ? 127 PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice like LASER and FERULA PANDECTES, —ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of Book IV PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, ? 126 Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. 155, 159 PAPAVER, poppy-seed; —— FICI, fig-seed PARADOXON, CONDITUM, ? 1 Parboiling, ? 119 Parrot, ? 231-2 Parsnips, ? 121-3 PARTHIA, ? 191, 237, 364; a country of Asia Passenius, —anus, an unidentified Roman, ? 389 PASSUM, raisin wine PASTINACA, —CEA, parsnip, carrot, ? 121-3; also a fish, the sting-ray Pastry, absent, p. 43 PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often confused with PATINA, which see, so that it has become difficult to distinguish between the two terms PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf. PATINARIUS PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as the scullion who washes them PATINA APICIANA, ? 141; —— APUA, ? 138-9, 146; —— DE ASPARAGIS, ? 132-33; —— DE CYDONIIS, ? 163; —— EX LACTE, ? 140; —— EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, ? 147; —— FRISILIS, ? 131; —— EX RUSTICIS, ? 134; —— DE ROSIS, ? 136; —— DE LACERTIS, ? 152; —— DE LUPO, ? 158; —— DE PERSICIS, ? 160; —— EX URTICA, ? 162; —— EX SOLEIS, ? 154; —— EX PISCIBUS, ? 155-7, 486; —— MULLIS, ? 148; —— QUIBUSLIBET, ? 149; —— ALIA PISCIUM, ? 150; —— SOLEARUM EX OVIS, ? 487; —— QUOTIDIANA, ? 122, 142; —— VERSATILIS, ? 129, 143; —— ZOMORE, ? 153; —— DE PIRIS, ? 161; —— DE SORBIS, ? 159; —— DE SAMBUCO, ? 135; —— DE CUCURBITIS, ? 137 PAVO, peacock, ? 54 Peaches, a dish of, ? 160 Peas, p. 247, ? 185-6, 190-2; —— a tempting dish of, ? 192; —— Indian, ? 187; —— purÉe of peas, cold, ? 188; —— or beans À la Vitellius, ? 189, 193; —— in the pod, Apician style, ? 194-6; —— in the pod À la Commodus, ? 197; purÉe of peas with brains and chicken, ? 198 PECTINE, scallop, ? 52 Peeling young vegetables, ? 69 PELAMIS, young tunny, ? 426, 444 Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. 17, 18, 257-58 PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, ? 85 Pepper, ? 1; —— for other spices, ? 143, 177, 295, seq. PERCA, perch, ? 446 Perch, ? 446 PERDICE, IN, ? 218 PERDRIX, partridge, ? 218, seq., 499 PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, ? 287, 288 PERSICUM, peach, ? 29, 160; —US, peach-tree Persons named in recipes, pp. 11, 21 PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, ? 289 Petits pois À la franÇaise, ? 185 Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. 3, 7, 11, 15 PETROSELINUM, parsley PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, ? 197 PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, ? 207 PHASIANUS, pheasant; —ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, ? 49, p. 265 Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana I PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, ? 220, 231-2 Picentinian bread, ? 126 Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. 257-8, Apiciana, Nos. 21-22, p. 272 Picking birds, ? 233 Pie chimneys, ? 141 Pig, see PORCELLUM PIPER, pepper; —— NIGRUM, black p.; —— VIRIDUM, green p., ? 134; “pepper” for other spices, ? 143, 177, 295, seq. —ATUS, prepared with p. PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum PIRUM, pear, ? 160-1 PISA, —UM, peas, pea, ? 185, seq., 190-2, 195-8; —— FARSILIS, ? 186; —— INDICAM, ? 187; —— FRIGIDA, ? 188; —M VITELLIANAM, ? 189, 193; —— ADULTERAM, ? 192 PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, ? 476-7; —— SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, ? 475; —— ASSOS, ? 478; —— OENOTEGANON, ? 479, 81; —— IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, ? 486; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ? 433, 434, 435, 436, 454; —— AURATA, ? 461; —— ASSA, ? 462; —— OENOGARUM, ? 464-5 PISTACIUM, —EUM, pistache PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see COQUUS Pitch, for sealing of vessels, ? 25 PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake Plaster in bread, p. 39 Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. 8, 9, 19, Apiciana No. 6, and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by J. D. Vehling. Cf. Cibarium, Cornum, Corvus, Frictella, Merula, Morus, Passer, Ranae, Risum, Sturnus, Styrio, Thinca, Thymus, Zanzerella Plato, writer, p. 12 Platters, Roast, p. 219; Athene, p. 158 Plautus, writer, p. 147; —— naming cooks, ? 484; Plautian Latinity, ? 153 Plumage of birds as a decoration, ? 213 Plums, ? 22 Plutarch, writer, pp. 3, 66, 128 Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. 20 POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, ? 178 POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody POLYPUS, the fish polypus, ? 410 POLYTELES, POLI—, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; “RecherchÉ” food; Title of Book VII Pomegranates, to keep, ? 20 Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. 2 Pompeii, city, description of, see Review. Innkeeper at —— advertising ham, ? 287; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., see list of illustrations POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf. MALUM, p. 370 PONTUS, Black Sea Region Pork, p. 285; —— and onions À la Lucretius, ? 151; —— skin, cracklings, ? 251-55; —— udder, ? 251; —— tenderloin, ? 251-255; —— tails and feet, ? 251; —— fig-fed, ? 259; —— cutlets, Hunter Style, ? 263; —— paunch, ? 285; —— loin and kidneys, ? 286; —— shoulder, ? 287-88; —— fresh ham, ? 289; —— bacon, ? 290; —— Salt —— ? 290; —— forcemeat, ? 366 Porker, The ——’s Last Will and Testament, ? 376 Porridge, Books IV, V, ? 172, 178; —— and wine sauce, ? 179; —— another, ? 180 PORRUM, —US, leek, ? 93, 96; “SECTILE ——”—Martial PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water Pot Roast, ? 270 Potherbs, to keep, ? 25, 188, see OLUS Potted EntrÉes, ? 54 POTUS, drink PRAECOQUO, —OCTUS, —OCIA, “cooked beforehand,” also ripened too early, but the present kitchen term is “blanching,” or “parboiling.” Cf. PRAEDURO Preserving (keeping of) meats, ? 10-12; —— fried fish, ? 13; —— fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., ? 19-24, 28, 29, 30; —— grapes, ? 19; —— honey cakes, ? 16; —— mulberries, ? 24; —— oysters, ? 14; —— pomegranates, ? 20; —— pot herbs, ? 25; —— quinces, ? 21; —— sorrel, sour dock, ? 26; —— citron, ? 23; —— truffles, ? 27; —— vegetable purÉe, ? 106 Press, wine illustration, p. 92 Processing, ? 19-24 PRUNA, live, burning coal Pudding, ? 60 PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, chicken, ? 51, 2-7, 213, 235-6, seq.; —— RAPTUS, note 1, ? 140 PULLUM PARTHICUM, ? 237; OXYZOMUM, ? 238; —— NUMIDICUM, ? 239; —— LASERATUM, ? 240; —— ELIXUM, ? 242; —— CUM CUCURBITIS, ? 243; —— CUM COLOCASIIS, ? 244; —— VARDANUM, ? 245; —— FRONTONIANUM, ? 246; —— TRACTOGALATUM, ? 247; —— FARSILIS, ? 248; LEUCOZOMUM, ? 250 PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, ? 67-71 PULMO, lung, ? 29 PULPA, —MENTUM, ? 42, 134; also PULMENTUM PULS, —E, PULTICULUM, Books IV, V, a porridge, polenta, ? 178, seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, ? 178; —— OENOCOCTI, ? 179; —— TRACTOGALATAE, ? 181 PULTARIUS, a bowl, a “cereal” dish, ? 104 Pumpkin, B. III, ? 73-80; —— pie, ? 137; —— fritters, ? 176; —— like dasheens, ? 74; —— Alexandrine Style, ? 75; —— boiled, ? 76; —— fried, ? 77; —— 78; —— mashed, ? 79; —— and chicken, ? 80 PurÉe of lettuce, ? 130 PYRETHRUM, —ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory QUARTARIUS, a measure (which see), ¼ pint Quenelles, ? 131 Rabbit, ? 54 Radishes, ? 102 RagoÛt of brains and bacon, ? 147; —— financiÈre, ? 166 RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p. 343, ? 403-4; Raie au beurre noir, ? 404 Raisins, ? 30 Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke of genius Rankin, E. M., writer, see COQUUS RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, ? 26, 100-1 RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, ? 102 Ray, fish, ? 403-4 RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up Redsnapper, ? 448 Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, ? 170, 166 Relishes, ? 174-5 RENES, ? 286 ReyniÈre, Grimod de la —— writer, p. 3, see MAPPA RHOMBUS, fish, turbot RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt Roasts, Roasting, p. 285, ? 266-70 Roman Beauty Apple, ? 136 Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. 182 Roman Vermouth, ? 3 ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; —— VINUM, rose wine, ? 4-6; —— without roses, ? 6 Rose pie, see MALUM ROSEUM, also ? 136, 171 Rose wine, ? 4-6 ROSMARINUS, rosemary RUBELLIO, fish, ? 447 RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. Styrio RUTA, rue; —— HORTENSIS, garden r.; —— SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; —— RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its stimulating properties Rye, ? 99 SABUCO, see SAMBUCO SAL, salt. Laxative salt, ? 29; “For many ills,” ibid. Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. 38 Salad, ? 109-11; —— dressing, ? 112-3; Italian —— ? 122 Salcisse, ? 41 SALINUM, salt cellar Salmasius, Codex of ——, see Apiciana, III SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, ? 381 Salsicium, ? 41 Salt, laxative, ? 29; “for many ills,” ibid.; —— meat, to make sweet, ? 12; —— fish, ? 144, seq., 427, seq.; —— balls, ? 145 SALVIA, SALVUS, sage Sanitary measures, see MAPPA SAPA, new wine boiled down SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; —— ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared rose flavor SARCOPTES, title of Book II SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, ? 146, 419, 420, 480; —— CONDITAE, ? 480; SARDAM FARSILEM, ? 419; —— Sardine omelette, ? 146 Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. 7 Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. 155, 159, 73, 231 Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. 22, 24, 26, 27; —— for roasts, ? 267-70; —— for partridge, ? 499; —— crane and duck, ? 215; —— for fowl, ? 218-28 Sauces. Bread Sauce, ? 274; Brine, ? 284; —— for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, ? 437-39; —— for boiled fish, ? 433-6, 454; —— for broiled mullet, ? 442-3; —— boiled meats, ? 271-3; —— for roasts, ? 267, seq.; English ——, ? 267; —— for broiled murenas, ? 448-51; Dill ——, ? 283; Herb —— for fried fish, ? 432; —— for Horned fish, ? 441; —— for lacertus, ? 455-7; —— perch, ? 446; —— redsnapper, ? 447; —— dory, ? 461-2; —— for suckling pig, ? 379; —— young tunny, ? 444-5, 459; —— for tooth-fish, ? 460-1, 486; —— shellfish, ? 397; —— for venison, ? 339, 349; —— for wild sheep or lamb, ? 350; White ——, ? 276, 277; Wine —— for fish, ? 464; Tasty —— for conger, ? 441; —— for tidbits, ? 276-82; —— for sea-scorpion, ? 463; —— for eel, ? 440, 466-7 Saucisse, ? 41 Sauerbraten-Einlage, ? 11 Sausage, p. 172, ? 41, 45, 60-65, 139, 165 Savonarola, Michaele, p. 273 Scalding poultry, ? 233 Scallops, ? 46 SCANDIUS, chervil SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. 16-17, p. 34, 25, 270 seq. Science confirming ancient methods, p. 32 SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, ? 43, 485 SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, ? 463, 475 SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. Coquus SCRUPULUM, SCRI—, a weight, which see Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, ? 23, 25 Sea Barb, ? 482-3; —— Bass, ? 158, 447; —— Eel, ? 484; —— food, p. 343; —— stew, Baian style, ? 432; —— mullet, ? 157; —— nettles, ? 162; —— perch, ? 447; —— pike, ? 158; —— urchin, ? 413-4; —— scorpion, ? 475 Sea-scorpion with turnips, ? 475 Sea water, ? 8 Seasoning, see flavoring Seeds, Summary of, p. 236 SEL, see SIL SEMINIBUS, DE, p. 236 Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. 3, 11, 15 SEPIA, cuttle-fish, ? 406-9 SERPYLLUM, wild thyme Service berry, ? 159 SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb SEXTARIUS, a measure, which see, ? 1 Sforza Ms. Apiciana XIII Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. 125 Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. 273 Shore Dinner, ? 46 Sicardus Ms. Apiciana XIV Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. 258, seq., also see Tacuinus Signerre, Colophon, p. 260 SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as LASERPITIUM, which see, ? 32 SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, ? 426 SIMILA, —AGO, fine wheat flour SINAPIS, mustard “Singe,” ? 55 SION, —UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip SITULA, hot water kettle Skate, ? 403-4 Slang in ancient text, p. 19 Slaughter, cruel methods of, ? 259, 260 Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. 60 Sloe, see PRUNUM Smelts, ? 138-39 SMYRNION, —UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander Snails, ? 323-5 Soda, use of —— to keep vegetables green, ? 66 Soft cabbage, ? 103-6 SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, ? 154, 487; SOLEARUM PATINA, ibid. SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. SORBET Sorrel, ? 26 Sour Dock, ? 26 Soups, ? 178, seq. Sow’s womb, matrix, udder, belly, ? 59, 172, 251-8 Soyer, Alexis, chef, 35 Sparrow, see PASSER SpÄtzli, ? 247 Spelt, ? 58-9 Spengler, O., writer, p. 17 SPICA, a “spike,” ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI Spiced Fruit, ? 177 Spices, Summary of, pp. 234-5; spicing, ancient and modern, ? 15, 276-77, 385, seq. Spoiling, to prevent food from—see Book I, and Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, ? 229-30, 233 SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, ? 46 SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and grown close together SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf. SPONDYLIUM and notes pertaining thereto Sprats, ? 138-9 Sprouts, cabbage ——, ? 89-92 Squash, ? 73-80 Squill, ? 485 Squirrel, ? 396 Stag, ? 339-45 Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., ? 50 Starr, Frederick, see introduction STATERAE, steelyards for measuring Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273 Stewed Lacertus, ? 152; —— meats, p. 285, ? 356, seq. Stewpots, illustrated, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235 String beans and chick-peas, ? 209 STRUTHIO, ostrich, ? 210-11 Studemund, W., writer, p. 19 Stuffed pumpkin fritters, ? 176; —— chicken or pig, ? 199; —— boned kid or lamb, ? 360 These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the following notes to STYRIO tend to show how far advanced was Platina in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th century in France He writes “DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS NUC MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO HORU, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCIU, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUÀM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE.” As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: “SALEM INDERE MEMENTO!—don’t forget the salt!” Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L’Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this “ragoÛt” as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save CarÊme, the best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls “Kavia.” Says he: “LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L’ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU’ AUX RUSSES—this stew, according to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled thereabouts.” Shakespeare, in speaking about “Caviare to the General” apparently was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la ReyniÈre, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in “Ein new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587” on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian gentlemen “... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FÜR EINEN VNGERISCHEN HERRN.” SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork Suckling Pig, see PORCELLUS Sugar and pork, ? 151; use of —— in ancient Rome, see SACCARUM Suidas, writer, p. 11 SUMEN, ? 257; —— PLENUM, ? 258 Sumptuous dishes, ? 285 Sweet dishes, home-made, ? 294-6 Sweet MINUTAL, ? 168 SYRINGIATUS, ? 360 TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. 138; —— round, id., p. 122 TAMNIS, —US, TAMINIUS, wild grape TANACETUM, tansy Taranto, Tarentum, city, ? 165; —ian sausage, ? 140; —— Minutal, ? 165; see also LONGANO Taro, dasheen, ? 74, 154, 172, 200, 244, 322; see COLOCASIA Tarpeius, a Roman, ? 363 TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL Tempting Dish of Peas, A ——, ? 192 TERENTINA, ? 338 Tertullian, writer, p. 3 TESTA, —U, —UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole TESTICULA CAPONUM, ? 166 TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as good eating TETRAPES, —US, four-footed animals; title of Book VIII THALASSA, the sea; title of Book IX, treating of fish Theban ounce, ? 3 THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp. 72, 90 Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. 18 THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, ? 60 THYMBRIA, savory; see SISYMBRIUM, SATUREIA and CUNILA; also see THYMUS THYNNUS, tunny-fish, ? 426, 457-8 Tidbits, p. 285, ? 261, seq.; —— of lamb or kid, ? 355 Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. 262; Lyons, p. 263; ZÜrich, p. 265; London, p. 267 Toasting, ? 129 Tooth-fish, ? 157 Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of 1541, text, p. 14 TORPEDO, —IN, —INE, ? 403-4 TORTA, cake, tart; —— ALBA, cheese cake Toulouse garnish, compared, ? 378 TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, spÄtzli, etc.); —— PULLUS, a young chicken pie TRACTUM, ? 181 Traianus, a Roman, ? 380; also Traganus, Trajanus Traube, writer, p. 19 Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose “Banquet” is the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp. 8, 11 Tripod, illustration, p. 40 TRITICUM, —EUS, —INUS, wheat, of wheat TROPHETES, erroneously for AËROPTES, Gr. for fowl, title of Book VI Truffles, ? 27, 33, 315-321, 333; cf. TUBERA TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert made of prunes Tunny, fish, ? 427, 458, 459; Baby, ? 420, 424, 425, 426; Salt, ? 427 TURDUS, thrush, ? 497 Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See Guinea Hen and Meleagris Turnover dish, ? 129 TURTUR, “turtle” dove, ? 218, seq., 498; —— ILLA, young t., an endearing term TURSIO, TH—, ? 145 TYROPATINA, ? 301 TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, eggs, spices—ingredients resembling our “Long Island Rabbit,” ? 137, 143, 180, 439; see TARICA, ? 144, 428 UDDER, ? 251 UNCIA, ounce, equals 1/12 lb.; also inch, -/12 UNGELLAE, ? 251-5 foot Urbino, Duke of, p. 269 URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; —ULA, small vessel; also a liquid measure, containing half of an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve SEXTARII; see measures URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, ? 108, 162 U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, ? 322 UVA, grape, ? 19; Uvam passam Phariam, ? 97 Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. 3, 8 Vanilla, ? 15 VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. 12 Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family name, ? 245 Varro, a writer, ? 70, 307, 396, p. 21 VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; —CULUM, a small v.; —— VITREUM, glass v., ? 23 Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. 13 Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. 254, seq., Incipit facsimile, p. 253 Veal Steak, p. 314, ? 351, 2; —— FricassÉe, ? 353, 4 Vegetable Dinner, ? 67-9, 71, 145, 188; —— purÉe, ? 103-6; —— peeling of young v., ? 66; to keep v. green, ? 67, 188; —— and brain pudding, ? 131 Vehling, J. D., see Introduction; V. collection, p. 257 Venison, ? 339-45 VENTREM, AD ——, ? 68, 69, 70, 71; —ICULUM, ? 285 VERMICULI, “little worms,” noodles, vermicelli Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different kinds of, ? 3, seq. VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. 18 VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch VICTUS, way of life, diet; —— TENUIS, reduced diet Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. 12, 21, 234 V. NIGRUM, “black wine,” may be muddy wine in need of clarification; there is some slight doubt about this point. It appears that the vintner of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy stuff upon his customers than his colleague of today who is very much restricted by law and guided by his reputation VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling grape wine, any home-made wine fermented or fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, —— PALMEUM, —— EX CAROTIS, —— EX MILII SEMINE, —— EX LOTO, —— EX FICO, —— EX PUNCICIS, —— EX CORNIS, —— EX MESPILIS, —— EX SORBIS, —— EX MORIS, —— EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, —— EX PIRIS, —— EX MALIS, (cf. Pliny), resembling our cider, perry, berry wines and other drink or liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, ? 5, are laxatives; —— ORIGANUM is wine flavored with origany; etc., etc. It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew the art of distillation to the extent as perfected by the Arabs centuries later and brought to higher perfection by the medical men and alchymists of the middle ages Violet Wine, ? 5 Virility, supposed stimulants for, ? 307, 410 VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, ? 351-4 Vitellius, emperor, p. 11, ? 189, 193, 317 VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young calf. “Calf’s sweetbreads”—Danneil Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. 21, 23, 27, pp. 13, 18, 19, 273 Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. 266 Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, 54; Plutarch’s essay on flesh eating, Martial, Ep. XII, 56 and VII, 19
Weighing fluids, ? 471 Welsh rabbit, see ZANZERELLA Whiting, ? 419 Wild Boar, ? 329, seq., 338; —— sheep, ? 348; —— goat, ? 346, seq. Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. Preface, p. 37; cf. Apiciana I, pp. 254, 257; cf. Garum Wine, fine spiced, ? 1; Rose, ? 4; —— without roses, ? 6; —— Violet, ? 5; —— To clarify muddy, ? 8; —— New—boiled down, DEFRITUM, ? 21; —— sauce for truffles, ? 33; —— Palm, ? 35; —— of Carica figs, ? 55; —— sauce for fig-fed pork, ? 259, 260; —— fish, ? 479; cf. VINUM Wine pitcher, illustration, p. 208; —— press, illustration, p. 92; —— storage room in Pompeii, illustration, p. 124; —— Dipper, p. 3; —— Crater, p. 140 Wolf, Rebekka, writer, ? 205, seq. Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ? 52 Woodcock, ? 218, seq. Wood-pigeon, ? 218, seq. Writers, ancient, on food, pp. 3, 4 YEAST, ? 16 ZAMPINO, ? 338 ZEMA, ZU—, ZY—, a cook pot for general use ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, ZOMOTEGANITE—a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, ? 153. The GANON, —A, —ITE, is the name of an unidentified fish, the supposed principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. Oenoteganon [End of Index and Vocabulary] [INDICIS FINIS] |
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