Six months precisely from the day of the first landing of the Americans in Japan, the mail having arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of the squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. On the morning of the 14th of January, the black smoke rolling away from their funnels, announced steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers as were to be seen in any waters—the Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and the old Mississippi steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a sight that the harbor of Hong Kong had never before witnessed, and will no doubt be many a day before it shall see again. At half-past ten in the morning, everything being ready, agreeably to signal the ships got under way, the Susquehanna leading out, and the Powhatan and Mississippi following, with the Lexington and Southampton in tow. As the flag-ship passed the Winchester, the English admiral manned his rigging, cheered, and fired a parting salute, which was returned promptly.

The first part of the run we had fine steamingweather. We stood up to Breaker Point on the China coast, and then headed across the channel for the south end of the island of Formosa. In three days this land was in sight, and we ran past it on a lovely evening, with the cultivation and fine growth of trees in full view. The setting sun soon lit up gorgeously the whole picture, and nature in its beauty having no barbaric phase, one could scarcely realize that a spot so lovely to the sight, was the home of a lot of throat-cutting, piratical Chinese refugees. Before daylight disappeared, we saw the lonely spike-headed Velo Rete rocks, standing in mid-ocean, a dreaded thing to mariners, and right ahead was visible the conical little island of Botel Tobago.

At night we passed the island of Sammassama, inhabited by a peculiar people. In two days more we had rough, stormy weather, and the ships in tow were cast off to proceed under sail. The navigation among the islands on the northeastern side of Formosa, owing to the currents, becomes very intricate.

On the night of the 19th we could hear the breakers, on the reef surrounding the island of Typinsan, on which the Providence, English twenty-gun ship, was wrecked in 1790. We passed the Amakarimas on the 21st, and in the evening the three steamers anchored in the roads of Napa, Loo-Choo, where we found the razee Macedonian, the sloop-of-war Vandalia, and the storeship Supply. In a few days the two other storeships arrived, and the weather became very rough. The sea broke and tumbled furiously in over the reefs, while the ships rolled at their moorings, and communication by boat between them was almost discontinued.

About this time a young assistant engineer of the Susquehanna died, and the boats that accompanied the body for burial ashore, had to row through the heavy sea. Pity but that he had been left at Macao, from which place he had written to his friends not to write him again as he would soon be home. Poor fellow, it was his long home he soon went to.

The boisterous weather continuing, the carpenters were unable to transfer a deck cabin from the Susquehanna to the Powhatan, to which vessel it was in contemplation to transfer the flag, or to discharge the coal from the Supply and land it.

The Mississippi having been as deep as usual with her coal, on leaving Hong Kong, and rolling heavily in her run from that place, was found, while laying at her anchors, to leak from twenty-two to twenty-four inches of water, in twenty-four hours, which was deemed sufficient by those on board, considering how flat a floor the ship had.

On the 31st of January, the weather having become more favorable, agreeably to order, the Macedonian, Vandalia, Southampton, and Lexington, got under way and stood handsomely out of the harbor, bound on their first visit to Japan. An exploration party by land, left, on the same morning, for the northern part of the island, where it had been said powder was manufactured, and that there was coal. The result of the exploration was the bringing back some of the “coal blossom,” from which some were sanguine, that there was coal on the island. It will be many a day before any steamer will cross the Pacific in the latitude of Loo-Choo; and Napa will never be the place selected for coaling.

During the night a poor devil of a Loo-Chooan paddled off to the Susquehanna, soliciting safety, from some on shore, whom he motioned, were going to kill him. Not having previously, “declared his intention in the United States,” it was not possible to get up another Koszta affair! His canoe was hoisted on board, and the man put under the sentry’s charge. The converted missionary at Napa—Dr. Bettelheim, expressed the belief, that the poor creature was a spy. This opinion was not at all surprising from the Dr., who never displayed amiability toward the population, and in answer to an inquiry about their history, or their upper classes, his response was “They are all liars—not a word of truth in them.” This feeling appeared to be entirely reciprocated by the Loo-Chooans, to whom his presence appeared most distasteful.

When other mediums than himself were adopted for the procurement of eatables, &c., we generally found, that we succeeded better. The Loo-Chooans are not in a condition to receive gospel-truth, and his efforts at proselyting were all well known in Japan, and any protection, that we might appear to extend to him, or the slightest, even apparent co-operation with him, were not at all calculated to advance the desires of our government with the Japanese. Besides this, it is said, that some, temporarily connected with the squadron, distributed “Yesoo” or religious tracts among the people, during our stay, which was not adventitious for our objects with a people, to whom in his letter, to allay their ever-active suspicions, in the first paragraph, the president had deemed it necessary to say, that the envoy he had sent them was “no missionary of religion.” Certain it is that no attempt at increasing the field of missionary labor, among the jealous, tenacious, and suspicious Niphon race, who chiefly inhabit the northwest islands of the Pacific, can ever go pari passu with efforts to establish treaty relations and commercial intercourse, unless like Mohammed preaching against the idols of the Kaaba, the cimetar gleams in one hand, while the Good Book is upheld by the other.

Dr. Bettelheim having received intelligence from England, of being superseded by another missionary, named Moreton, was with his family tendered a passage in the Supply to China. He left behind more patients than proselytes; poor patients, grateful for the physical assistance, which his Esculapian art had enabled him to extend to them, when afflicted with the noxious diseases of the island. This medicinal aid was, no doubt, often extended under difficulty—the want of faith in the remedy by the afflicted, and the sneers of the bystanding native Hippocrates. I remember on one occasion, being attracted by a group, who gathered around a white-headed old native, who had fallen apparently in a fit. As he lay stretched upon the ground, some held up his head at intervals, and attempted to give him chah or warm tea to drink, while a native Sangrado, was leopardizing him with mochsa burning. Dr. Bettelheim, who was by, thought the man should be bled, but he said, “If I bleed him, and he recovers, they will say, the mochsa cured him; if I bleed him and he dies, they will declare I killed him.”

It was understood that the commodore had purchased or procured from the authorities, the place on shore at Tumai, where our coal had been stored, and over which a shed had been erected. It was left in charge of an acting master’s mate, who had command of a number of invalid seamen, quartered in a building not far off. The American flag floated over the coal shed, for the first time, on the 5th of February.

During this visit the people appeared rather more friendly than usual. We took our walks as formerly to the castellated and beautiful Sheudi. The vernacular had been slightly acquired by the juveniles; a small boy in a school counted twelve for me in English quite plainly, while others desiring to display the activity peculiar to juvenility, when scrambling for coppers, would say as you passed, “American—how do you do?”

On the 3d of February, the commodore with a suite and military escort similar to the one of June 6th preceding, paid another official visit to the palace at Sheudi: a proceeding anything else than devoutly wished for by the prince-regent. The palace-gates were opened and we were ushered into the former hall of audience. On this occasion a number of American gold and silver coin were left with them, for which they were informed, that on the return of the squadron, they were to give an equivalent in similar metals of their currency. They would gladly have avoided this, but they felt themselves the victims of a gently-forcible suasion, that there was no getting around.

A banquet was spread as before, and as each guest left the building, an attendant functionary at the door handed him a red slip of paper written on in the mandarin character, which proved to be kind of hospitality shares, and on their presentation at the city of Napa, entitled the holder to a “cumshaw” of a pipe and pouch, and bundle of paper.

On the 7th of February the three steamers left Loo-Choo for Japan. On getting outside of the harbor a sail hove in sight, which proved to be the sloop-of-war Saratoga from Shanghae. We lay to for an hour and a half, getting from her in boats, bullocks and provisions that she had brought. At five in the evening we were off the northern part of Loo-Choo island—“Mellville,” which had been surveyed by Captain Beechy, R.N., and resurveyed by boats from our squadron.

We got, after leaving Loo-Choo, what the sailors call a good “slant” of wind, and ran free under canvass as well as steam. On the night of the 11th it came on thick and chilly, and found us groping our way among the chain of islands just southward of Ohosima. One steamer was unable to discern the lights of another, and the midnight navigation was not rendered any more pleasurable by the corybantic sea, or the reflection that during the day we had discovered dangerous rocks poking their points above the water, not laid down upon the charts, which would punch a hole in the bottom of a ship with no compunction. But it is remarkable what indifference or philosophy takes possession of those, who are accustomed to plough the great deep, upon such occasions. They may know the peril of the locality in which they are sailing, yet they turn in as usual; sleep and snore, and reck not of what may come.

The next morning was Sunday: we had left Japan on that day, and we were now returning to it. The sun came up bright and clear, but the air had become very cold, and penetrated the ear painfully as we stood upon deck, because of the transition from the more genial temperature of Loo-Choo, which we had left a few days before. On our right hand was Ohosima—the smoke slowly ascending from its volcano like incense from nature’s altar, while right ahead of us were the mountain ranges of the shore of Japan wrapped in snow—yes snow, a thing we had not laid eyes on for many a month before:—

so this even chilling remembrance, brought up a warmth of recollection of our own country.

Having drifted a good deal during the night, daylight found us opposite the wrong bay—that of Kawatsoo, instead of Yedo. But lucky so it was, for on approaching, two ships were descried in under the land. On reaching signal distance we made out the numbers, flying at their mast-heads, to be those of the Macedonian and Vandalia. The latter vessel, being the nearest, soon telegraphed the flag-ship “ashore is the Macedonian,” this vessel the night before, when thick and hazy, having gotten on a reef. When we came up she had thrown over a number of things to lighten her, and had slung and buoyed her guns too, to let them go, if necessary. Signal was made for the three ships to come to anchor. In the afternoon, the sea being smoother, the Mississippi was directed to pull the Macedonian off the reef, which she did finely, parting one hawser in the undertaking. The ships remained at this anchorage for the night. Before sundown, most opportunely, the Lexington hove in sight. The Southampton, more lucky than the other sailing-vessels, had made the bay of Yedo, and her true, old sailor-commander had run up it, as far as the sailing-chart furnished him, laid down. The Japanese on shore, who knew of the grounding of the Macedonian, had gone up to where the Southampton lay, and informed them of an American ship with a white streak around her, being ashore, and with a native chart, they pointed out the spot, where she was. Captain Boyle despatched a launch with an officer to her assistance, though the arrival of the steamers, rendered it unnecessary.

No sight could have exceeded in magnificence the one presented by Foogee Yama at daylight, the next morning. The clouds that had obscured it the evening before had disappeared with the night. The air was clear; the mountain seemed to have moved nearer during darkness; its mantle of snow, divided by rugged ravines, was more plain; and when the moon was setting, and sharply defining one side with its chill, cold rays, the sun, in all his state, came up upon the other, and burnished with brilliant glory the huge cone as it swelled up into the sky.

We entered the bay of Yedo in the morning of the 13th of February, the Susquehanna towing the Vandalia; the Powhatan, the Lexington; and the Mississippi, having more towing-power from greater face of wheel and immersion of paddle, the Macedonian. As before, the batteries were ready, and guns shotted; but instead of proceeding cautiously, as on the occasion of our former visit, the line of ships ran directly past their forts and into their inner bay, not stopping until reaching what had been called “American anchorage,” on our first reconnoissance, about ten miles above the port of Uraga, off the island of Natse. The storeship Southampton had arrived there some days before. We had scarcely anchored when some Japanese officials came off to the flag-ship to welcome the commodore and officers back to Japan. They verified the intelligence we had received through the Russians before leaving China—that of the death of the emperor Minamoto Jyekosi, and the accession to the throne of his son, with the title Minamoto Yosisaki-sei-tai-seogun. It was very soon discovered from them, to our surprise, that their government was prepared to return an affirmative response to the demands and requests contained in the letter of our president. They informed the commodore that a building had been erected, and preparations made to receive him at Uraga, where they said was a high functionary who would deliver to him the imperial answer to the president’s letter, and begged that he would move his squadron down to that place.

The commodore, through his captain of the fleet, peremptorily refused to accede to this request, on the ground that the anchorage there was too much exposed at that season of the year; and requested them to inform their government that a suitable place for his interviews with those appointed to confer with him, must be selected in the vicinity of the then anchorage of his squadron, otherwise, if he moved at all, it would be to ascend the bay in the direction of Yedo.

Several days were allowed to elapse before the Japanese consented to change the location for the negotiations. The weather proved quite rough, but the boats of the squadron, under that most admirable officer and gentleman, Lieutenant W.L. Maury, continued to make soundings and cross-bearings in the direction of the city. On one day the weather proved so rough, that the surveying-boats and their parties, unable to get back to their own ships, remained with the Southampton all night, which vessel had been moved further out and higher up to triangulate upon.

The Mississippi was heeled with her guns, and her shot and shell temporarily transferred to the Susquehanna, to get at her leak. The broad-pennant was transferred from the latter ship to the Powhatan; state-department cherry cordial was freely set out for visiting Japanese officers aboard of the flag-ship; and the Vandalia, with Fleet-Captain Adams, was sent down to Uraga to have an interview with the governor of the place, and to tender a passage up to the squadron, to the high functionary with the imperial answer at that place. This was declined. They said that thus far they had yielded to us, and it was but right that we should do so in some things to them, especially as they had already erected houses for reception and negotiation at Uraga.

It was well known that “nulla vestigia retrorsum,” should be the motto in dealing with these people; and the Japanese finding that the American “Mahomet would not come to the mountain,” decided that the “mountain should go to Mahomet,” and so consented to the removal of their buildings higher up the bay. It so happened, that just at the time that the Vandalia appeared in sight on her return with the declension of the Japanese, that the remainder of the squadron had gotten underway to move ten or twelve miles higher up to the more land-locked anchorage off Kana Gawa, or river Kana, and the Japanese believing there to be an immediate concert of action, and our surveying-boats having approached to within a very few miles of their great capital, very readily acquiesced in our requests.

On the 22d of February the different ships fired a salute in honor of the day. The atmosphere was the purest, and it was a fit presence in which to honor the memory of George Washington—Foogee-Yama, with its mantle of snow, towered upon the sight, its ermine of the elements typifying the purity of his character; and its great height, the eminence which he attained in the eyes of the world.

The spot selected for the erection of the buildings for the conferences, was on the beach of the village of Yokohama, or compost town, in the small bight of Kawa-saki, and separated from the city of Kanagawa by the little river Kana. This place was quite sheltered by a projecting bluff below. The Japanese, as could be seen through a glass at two and a half miles distant, set to work in the erection of the buildings on shore, with a Babel-like activity; and the ships of the squadron moved in closer and formed a crescent line in their anchorage, agreeably to buoys previously established.

While the buildings were being gotten ready, a number of their fast-sailing, sharp, copperplated and tassel-prowed boats, some quite ornamentally painted, came off and moved round the ships, their inmates not being allowed to come alongside by their government’s cruisers, peering all they could. The sterns of these boats are open, or indented to the distance of a foot or so in their build, they believing, perhaps, that the eddying water at this point serves to propel the craft. The tall, square masts of their boats, when not under sail, rests on a kind of gallows at the stern. At one corner of the stern is an upright bamboo-pole to which, like a tavern-keeper’s sign, is attached by strips, a cotton or provincial flag; if it be a government or customhouse boat, the flag is of white cotton with a horizontal black stripe through the centre of it. On the other corner is a similar arrangement, from which is suspended the universal paper lantern, differing from the Chinese in lifting up, instead of opening out like an umbrella. The rowers of these boats are athletic men, who appear very indifferent to cold, and in the chilliest weather their cotton garments are most epigrammatic in character.

The Japanese officials, or gentlemen, who came off to the ships were politely received and kindly entertained, at which they seemed gratified, and, after the manner of their land, indicated their appreciation by bringing from time to time little presents of lacquered-ware, &c. I don’t remember to have seen anything else but the most quiet and gentle manner in any of these visiters, except in the case of an impertinent little officer of artillery, who it would have been as well to have shown the gangway. This fussy little animal, who rejoiced in a flaming pair of big brocade breeches, being a consumptive, according to the Æsculapian theory of his country, left all “the hair on the top of his head,” which according to our theory is the “place where hair ought to be.” He had, however, the cheroot-cigar-looking tuft of hair laying horizontal, and end pointing forward. This fussy little person pryed into everything about the ship with rude curiosity. He came and went from the cabin without decorum, and examined huffily officers’ state-rooms, without solicitation. The only point of interest in the diminutive animal was, that he appeared to understand quite well, how a howitzer in battery should be worked.

A dinner was given on the Susquehanna, by her commander, to Yezimon, governor of the province of Uraga, and a suite of ten others, among whom was the little peripatetic consumptive of the artillery. The Japanese being accustomed to the use of the chop-sticks at their meals—which are not of ivory as the Chinese, but lacquered black—were a little awkward at first in the use of the Christian assistants of knife and fork, but it did not take them long to acquire the requisite facility, when they made up for lost time. The cherry cordial, of which they are very fond, did not go untasted, and champaigne was by no means neglected by them. Accustomed to the small saki-cup, they admired the contents more than the size of our glasses. When any health was proposed, the Japanese—as if using the staghead-pattern cup dug up at Pompeii—turned their goblets upside down on the table, to show the absence of heel-taps.

The health of their emperor was drank, for which the governor, through his interpreter, returned thanks and gave the health of the president of the United States; and after his own health had been given, he gave the health of the commodore (not present). This was all very well apparently, but I shrewdly suspect that for the hint, they were indebted to Mr. A. L.C. Portman, who was present and interpreted from the Dutch, in which they preferred conversing at all times: he is too conversant with the proper etiquette of such occasions, to let this surmise go unindulged in. They remained at the table some two hours, during which time one of their number present, “by request,” sang a Japanese song—if a kind of a cross between the half wail, half-vocal screech of the Chinese, a boy dragging a stick over the palings after him, and a severe asthma, may be called a song. In return one of the lieutenants of the ship present, sang “Ginger Blue.” “Ginger Blue” sang in the hermetic empire! What impertinence, O Jonathan! to indulge in such refrains before the potentate presence that once required knocking of head from a Russian count! Thy good friend the London Times, will “condemn thee to everlasting redemption for this,” and when it learns it, how many additional articles will appear in its columns headed “More American Wit.”

Yezimon, on leaving the ship where he had been so handsomely entertained, remarked that he hoped he would have the opportunity of reciprocating the courtesies which had been shown them, when the friendship (treaty) had been made; they would then see more of us, and we more of them and their towns. As customary, they left a number of little presents, consisting of confections in small wooden boxes, and flowers, and little birds on miniature trees, made with shells. Their specimens of spun-glass did not equal in whiteness and fineness what we see at home.

While at dinner, they laid aside their two swords. I had a very good opportunity of examining them in the cabin of the Mississippi. The Damascus may not equal them; but they evinced much surprise when I showed them the temper of this far-famed blade, by an engraving, in which the point of one appeared so bent as to be put through the guard. The Japanese blade is of the most magnificent steel; it has the back shaped like that of a razor, and the edge is equally as sharp, and so highly polished that they look black instead of bright, and the breath disappears from their surface, as from the face of the finest mirror. The hilts were without “basket” of any kind, and about a foot in length, intended to be grasped, when in use, with both hands. They were covered with the skin of the shark, or the corrugated plaice, wrapped in silk cord in diamond shapes, and ornamented with amulets in the shape of small animals, made of gold, boxwood, red coral, or bronze. The guard, which was a circle of bronze, was decussated, and frequently had an image of a fly entangled in a web. The blade has little curve, and is contained in a scabbard of wood finely lacquered, and ornamented with purple cord.

The Japanese interpreter present spoke English tolerably; said he had learned it from an American at Nangasaki, but took good care not to mention that this American was one of the sailors whom the United States ship Preble took from them in 1849, who had been held by them in captivity. They were very desirous of getting dictionaries and grammars in English. They were offered a passage to the United States in one of the steamers; they said “No; they would come when they could build ships”—indicating the three masts with their fingers, and the yards by crossing them. Two of the party ascended as high as the main-top.

The houses on shore progressed, and were being built without any palisade enclosure, as had been agreed on. On the 4th of March we had a slight fall of snow, and the air was cool. The Japanese, with the ships’ casks, brought off in their boats, from some place of their river, water to fill our tanks. They brought two kinds, and desired us to choose between them. Everything in Japan having any connection with strangers, is deemed a matter of such importance, that the water-boats were always accompanied by others with municipal officials. They were entertained with cakes and tea and wine; and were quite curious in examining each portion of the ship. They did not understand why we should have brought so many vessels. They told us that the Russian squadron had been at Nangasaki, and left there on the 12th of February. At that time they declared their intention of making a treaty with the “American States” alone. They would present their fans on which they desired some sentiment to be written, and many of them took away the marginal aphorisms of a pocket-dictionary. Their own cards were presented, written perpendicularly on strips of paper, such as Mr. Olee-ke-chay-suo, or Mr. To-ta-ro-sa-koo-ka. They were very polite in writing names in Japanese characters in our books. I requested one to write a name on the title-page of a Book of Common Prayer, which happened to have a steel engraving of the cross upon it. He had dipped his camel’s-hair pencil into his portable inkstand, passed the point through his lips, and was about to write when his eye rested upon the cross; he instantly shook his head, threw the book upon the table, nor could he be induced to touch it again.

Some of the officers who visited the shore near the buildings, brought flowered branches of the wild Camellia Japonica, which is native here. Upon being put on the table near a stove, they sent forth a pleasant perfume. The leaf here is of the deepest and most lovely green; but the flower, though as large, had not the same delicacy of petal—perhaps owing to exposure to the cold winds—as the same flower, after hot-house nurture, in the United States.

On the 6th of March a mariner died on the Mississippi of an affection of the brain. The sloop-of-war Saratoga, after a boisterous passage from Shanghae, and being blown off from the mouth of the bay of Yedo, arrived and anchored in the line. This dropping in of the ships and the subsequent arrival of another, the Japanese did not understand, and perhaps thought with Macbeth:—

The 8th of March had been selected for the landing of the commodore to meet the Japanese commissioners at Yokohama, but there was very little of the excitement or interest felt in this landing, that attached to the first, in July preceding, except on the part of those from the ships, that had not been to Japan on the previous occasion. Then there was some doubt and uncertainty; the Japanese might or might not attempt the Golownin game on us; they say now, they were prepared for us then as enemies, they now receive us as friends: besides this we had now taken exactly the measurement of their foot, and our force was treble as great.

The following memorandum order was issued:—

About 11 o’clock in the morning of the 8th, preparation being complete, twenty-nine boats of the different ships, with officers and crews armed and equipped agreeably to the order, were formed in a line abreast according to rank of commanders, and pulled ashore, presenting a beautiful sight. The number landing, including officers, was about five hundred. The commodore not long after, left the flag-ship in a white barge, under a minister’s salute of seventeen great guns from the Macedonian, he going ashore in the capacity of “Special Ambassador.” On reaching the beach, as before, he was received by his officers, and with American national airs from the bands. The column of escort was then formed, and all marched to the reception-house—a short distance. A large field around the buildings had been screened off with striped cotton cloth, of black and white, while the common people of the village were kept back by ropes, extending from a growth of fine trees to the water’s edge. A Japanese guard of honor with lances, were drawn up on the right in rear of our line of marines and sailors, and a cordon of the sharp government boats lined the beach to the left.

The high officers, who had been appointed to treat with Commodore Perry, were:

Hayashi Daigaku, no-kami; chief commissioner to form the treaty, and member of council.

Ido, Prince of Tsu-Sima, second commissioner.

Izawa, Prince of Mima Saki, third commissioner.

Tsudzuki Suruga, no-kami, Prince of Suruga, fourth commissioner.

Udono, Mimbu Sheyoyu, member of board of revenue, fifth commissioner.

TakenoÜchi Shitaro, member of board of revenue, sixth commissioner.

Matsusaki Michitaro, seventh commissioner.

The chief Japanese interpreter was Moriyama Yenoske, and Hori Tatsnoske, and Namura Gohachiro, were two other interpreters. “No-kami” means a very learned man; one into whose head no more information can be gotten.

The first, second, third, fifth, and seventh commissioners acted.

On entering the hall, the commodore was received by the five commissioners. The party being seated, the flag of Japan was run up on board the Powhatan, and saluted with twenty-one guns from the launches, after which another salute of seventeen guns was given to the Japanese high commissioners, which the Japanese say, they took as a great compliment.

The room of reception and audience was in a white pine-building, unpainted. You entered by a flight of three steps. On either side the room was lighted through white oiled paper in the place of glass, placed in frames resembling sash-work. The extreme end of the room was concealed by a large blue flag, having in its centre in white, the Japanese coat-of-arms, composed of three quarter-moons, whose horns unite so as to form a circle, around which at intervals, was entwined a small wreath. The walls of the entrance were covered with paper screens, having on them the Japanese deified or sacred bird, the crane, perched on leafless trees. The floor was covered with mats, or rather straw-cushions, they being some three inches thick, bound on the edges, and very springy, when walked on. Along the entire length of the room, were placed low benches for seats, in front of which nearly as low, were narrow tables covered with red cotton cloth. The temperature of the room was regulated by charcoal in full heat, placed in copper-pans as “braziers,” resting in lacquered stands with gilt and ornamental legs, distributed along the centre of the floor. The company being seated—the Americans on the left and the Japanese functionaries on the right, the Japanese interpreter received a message from his prince, with his nose about two inches from the matting, and then dragging or sliding himself À la Turk by the use of his arms, to where the commodore was seated, told Mr. Portman, his clerk, in Dutch, to say to the commodore, that the prince was glad to see him, and hoped his health was better. This civility was returned in like manner. They then went to business: they desired to know what number of persons the commodore wished to have retire with him in the conference: commodore said, he wished a room for five, and named the captain of the fleet, Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, author of the “Middle kingdom,” his son—his secretary, and Mr. Portman, who interpreted in Dutch. They retired into another room in the rear, whose entrance was concealed by a purple flag. The interview lasted some three hours, during which time the following answer to the president’s letter was received:—

The commissioners expressed themselves prepared to commence discussions upon the various points contained in the letter from the president, presented last year, and also to receive any further propositions that the commodore might wish to make—that in the determination of the emperor to make some modification in their laws of seclusion, he relied upon the friendly disposition of the Americans toward Japan; and as such negotiations were entirely novel to them, they would trust with confidence to the commodore’s superior experience, to his generosity, and his sense of justice.

Commodore Perry was fully satisfied on all points suggested by him, which were in accordance with Mr. Webster’s letter of instructions to Commodore Aulick, accompanying the first letter to the emperor. A draft treaty, in English, Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese, was put into the hands of the Japanese commissioners, who said that it would receive due consideration; but the old emperor had died since Commodore Perry was there last year, and his successor was a young man, who would require to consult his council before coming to a determination, and the commodore was reminded that the Japanese did not act with the same rapidity as Americans did.

After these preliminaries had been gotten through, the commodore made known to the commissioners, that a man had been dead on the Mississippi for two days, and he desired to know, whether he could not bury him on an island lower down the bay, which we had already surveyed, and called after the great statesman, “Webster Island.” They objected strongly to this, and said, if we would deliver the body to them at Uraga, some twenty-six miles below, that they would have it safely conveyed to Nangasaki on the island of Kiusu, a distance of five hundred miles, and there inter it in the burying-ground, which they have allowed the Dutch. The commodore would not consent to this, when they agreed to permit the burial on shore just abreast of our anchorage. They said, they would have the spot fenced in; most probably because hereafter it would be tabooed ground with them.

When the commissioners and commodore retired, the officers of the escort, who remained, were treated with tea and confections. After these thin-cooked meats, some bearing great favor to fried snakes, cut in slips so thin that the hinges of one’s jaw would become tired, long before his appetite became satisfied, were placed before them on lacquered plates. This repast produced much disappointment with the officers; they had paid two official visits to the prince-regent of Loo-Choo island—a dependency of Japan, and on one occasion were entertained by him with as many as thirteen different soups at one feast, and arguing from “man to master,” they anticipated twenty-six different kinds of soups, when they got their knees under Japanese pine. To those who were sharp-set, the entertainment of Timon of Athens could not have been much less satisfactory.

Equi-distant on the tables, were lacquered trays supported with feet, on which were placed of the same material, heavy ornamental silver “tea-pots,” containing saki, while the tea was served in thin-lacquered cups, resting—to keep the heat from the hand—on circular pieces of bamboo, resembling the dice-box of a backgammon-board. The Japan lacquer—and this being a part of the “service” of royalty, must have been a fair specimen of it, did not strike me as being incomparably superior to that of the Chinese, as I had supposed.

When the repast was concluded some Japanese amateur-artists from Yedo, who had come down from the city in the suite of the commissioners, made crayon sketches of many of the officers, and seemed to labor under the impression, that the only thing necessary to make a good American portrait was to draw a large nose, and sketch the balance of the features around it. Their essays at representing flowers—the Japonica for instance, were much better.

While on shore, I took the opportunity of making a closer inspection of the Japanese troops, who were standing in line in a neighboring field. They did not present as good an appearance as when drawn up at Gorihama, the year before. They did not seem as athletic as the Tartar troops I saw at the fort back of Canton, or at Shanghae; and it appears to me, that even if they were armed with the percussion-musket, or the modern Minie rifle, instead of the antiquated matchlock, old Dutch muskets, &c., as they are, still their unsoldierly costume, would prevent, that freedom and quickness of movement, and celerity in the use of offensive weapons, that now-a-days constitute effective troops.

In my limited reconnoissance, I took occasion to pull some of the family Camellia Japonicas, that were growing wild. One of the two-sworded gentry seeing me standing near the beach, with a bunch in my hand, desired to know the name of the flower in “American.” Upon being told he repeated the word until he got our pronunciation quite accurately, and then wrote it down in a small soft-paper book with a camel’s hair pencil, they always going provided with these, together with a small bronze ink-holder, and a handle to contain the pencil, at a short distance not unlike a small pipe, with the bowl downward. I retorted his question and requested the name of the flower in “Nip-pon,” as they called their country. He said, “T’su-bi-ki.” The “illustrious stranger”—wearied me more than himself with the number of his queries. I had to catalogue nearly every article in my wardrobe in English for him, which he invariably noted down. Upon showing him my watch, he pronounced the word “chronometer” quite plainly; and on espying when the case was opened, my name engraved on the back, he wanted to know what it was. Touching myself I pronounced my name, which he wrote down, but hardly succeeded in repeating. They can not say “l,” but call it “r.” The word “glove,” which they call “grove,” is too much for them.

In the interview, the subject of supplying us with coal was broached, which they gave a favorable response to, and promised to have some specimen, of what coal they had, ready for inspection in a short time. This contrasted strongly with the dissimulation practised by them during the stay of the “Preble” at Nangasaki in 1849. Then, those Japanese who came on board, affected the greatest curiosity in looking at the coal in the armorer’s forge; they were much surprised at the heated rocks, and one of them asked permission to take ashore a piece of the coal, which he carefully wrapped in paper.

The next day Japanese officials were aboard of the Mississippi, and held interviews there with the captain of the fleet, with regard to furnishing fresh provisions to the ships.

During the forenoon, the mayor of Uraga, and the interpreter and other officials came aboard, and accompanied the men sent to dig the grave for the man who had died, to point out the spot on shore. The burial, which took place some hours after, with the consent of the authorities who were standing by, and in the presence of thousands of the population, accompanied with the religious service of Christians, was an event of much significance, when the inscription that was put by the Japanese over the massacred Christians at Simabara is recollected: “So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so bold as to come to Japan; and let all know that the king of Spain himself, or the Christian’s God, or the great God of all, if he violates this command, shall pay for it with his head.” The settled oppugnation to Christianity, of more than two hundred years, was broken through with this burial from an American man-of-war.

Not having been present at the interment, I am indebted, for an account of it, to the chaplain of the Mississippi—a man of great energy of character, and who, in addition to his clerical duties on board ship, occupied himself with literary labor, and with an indomitable perseverance and love for scientific discovery, during the whole cruise, at every hour of the night, addressed himself to the task of observing the various phases of what has been called the zodiacal light; and to his midnight labor and zeal, the astronomical world may yet be indebted for a solution of the vexed question about this light.

“Our preparations were for an interment exactly after our usual method upon the occasion of the burial of a marine. A great many of the officers would have liked to have gone, and some applied for permission; but it was thought best to give the occasion no unusual eclat, while at the same time nothing was to be omitted.

“About three o’clock, after ‘all hands’ had been called to ‘bury the dead,’ and the chaplain had read from the gangway the customary passage of the Scripture, we left the ship in two boats, with the flags at half-mast; the first contained Captain Slack of the marine corps, assistant-surgeon Lynah, and myself, in uniform and gown; and the other boat having the dead body, with a guard of honor, consisting of a corporal and six marines. We landed at a spot designated—a quarter of a mile south of the landing-place of yesterday, and in front of a large village—Yokohama, the whole shore being lined with villagers who had come to gaze. The mayor of Uraga, interpreter, &c., received us there. I had expected that on their seeing me in my official costume, and first knowing that there was a Christian minister on their shore and among them, that there would be a recoil, and that they would shrink from me as from something poisonous. But there was no such thing. On the contrary, they came up successively and gave me their hand for a shake. (They have learned our salutation, and seem to be fond of it). The interpreter, pointing to my prayer-book, asked if it was for ceremonies over the dead, and smiled as before, when I told him that it was. The marines were formed in line and received the body with presented arms, when the procession was formed and moved on: marines with reversed arms; fife and muffled-drum playing the Dead March; the chaplain; coffin borne by four marines; their captain, surgeon, hospital-steward, and six or eight sailors. Our way lay through the village, and the occasion seemed to excite quite a holy-day among them; everybody, men, women, and children, running and gaining good places for seeing, and squatting down on the ground till we had passed, when they would run and gain another place for observation if they could. The street through which we passed was, however, kept clear, and at intervals I noticed new boards stuck up, with inscriptions, probably to warn people from intruding on our way. But the people, even women and children, showed no fear nor any hesitation in coming near us, or in being seen themselves; and some shops that we passed were kept open as usual. I saw myself often pointed out, being doubtless recognised by my gown and book as the clergyman of the party, but it was without any exhibition of displeasure on their countenance; but as they would look at any other curiosity. I saw one woman hold up her little child to see me, and the thought passed through my mind that, if it should live to maturity, it would probably see many wonderful changes in Japan.

“Our way led quite through the village, at the further end of which, on a wooded hill at our left, was a temple with two different flights of steps leading up to it, and ornamented gateways below. Through the further of these gateways, I now saw a Buddhist priest in his officiating costume emerge, and perceived that he took his way toward some fresh earth—the grave, a little beyond.

“They had selected for the interment a very pretty spot about a hundred yards from the village, and closely adjoining an old burying-ground of their own. We found the Buddhist priest seated there, but he attempted no interference with our religious ceremonies, which I commenced (all uncovering), as we approached the grave.

“The scene, at this time, was an exceedingly interesting one; even apart from its being the first breaking through of the Japanese settled opposition to Christianity. The hills here formed a semi-circular sweep, and at one end of the semicircle we were standing. On the opposite side, on the heights above, was the Buddhist temple. The sides of these hills, and the whole sweep of the crest were covered with people, quiet, and attentive spectators of what was going on.

“Close to us stood the Japanese officials, just below the grave. The marines in line on the other side, and near them on a mat sat the old Buddhist priest, with a little table before him, on which were a number of papers, &c., with incense burning in their midst. Everybody was quiet and attentive while we went through our usual service for the solemn burial of the dead. Then the marines fired three volleys over the grave. As the first volley was given there was a half shout on the hills around, as if giving vent to deep observation and pent-up curiosity, the number of which was computed by one of our officers at two thousand.

“While they were filling up the grave, I asked permission to examine their burying-ground, which they readily gave, the interpreter also going with me and explaining the several parts. Against the side of the hill is a range of sculptured stones, which he said were their gods; some had bas-reliefs of figures like human beings on them. Across the space were lines of small head-stones—some of these also with human figures sculptured in bas-relief on their front, others with inscriptions. These were commemorative of individuals buried below; and when I observed to the interpreter that the space for each body was very small, he replied that the dead in Japan were buried in a sitting posture.

“I then went down to the Buddhist priest, a venerable-looking man of about seventy-five years of age, who was very friendly and showed me his rosary, half of the beads in which were glass, and half wood; also his book.

“The interpreter opened the papers and showed us their contents, and stated that the Buddhist had come there ‘as a compliment to Mr. Williams’ (Williams having been the name of the deceased). On the little table, in addition to the incense-box, and some rolls of unknown material and paper, were also a bowl of cooked rice, a covered vessel filled with saki, and a small gong. The priest now commenced his ceremonies, sometimes touching the gong, sometimes stirring the saki; while he thumbed his beads, and then muffling his hands in his robe and bowing his head, he read some prayers in a low, unintelligible voice. His outer dress was a pouch of very rich brocade silk covered with fanciful figures.

“After putting head and foot boards with inscription to the grave; and covering it in our usual manner, we left the Buddhist priest still engaged at his ceremonies and set out on our return, the crowds gathering around as before, and all very civil and polite, so with drum and fife playing we returned to our boats.”

Conferences were now held daily, and negotiations progressed slowly, but harmoniously.

It was agreed that everything official, that transpired at these interviews, should be committed to writing that nothing might be misunderstood, nor retracted.

On the days of assembling, an imperial barge with a canopy and gaudy streamers, moving like the stately boat of some Doge, towed by a number of boats, conveyed the high commissioner and suite from Kanagawa to the place of meeting.

Among the presents intended for the emperor was a small railroad-track, with locomotive-tender, car, &c., and a magnetic telegraph, which were erected and put in operation on shore.

These excited a great deal of interest among the Japanese, particularly the latter, when they were made to comprehend its utility in the transmission of intelligence. Communications were made in their presence in the English, Japanese, and Dutch languages. They were also delighted with the railroad, when they saw the engine and car flying round the track at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but thought it would be impossible to construct them to advantage in Japan owing to the very uneven surface of the country.

Nearly two centuries ago, the Jesuits in China seeing how necessary the protection of the government was for their propagandism, made a number of things to amuse and excite the curiosity of the emperor Kang-hi. One of their inventions resembled the modern locomotive, though on the Ericsson plan; it was made, like the locomotive presented to the emperor of Japan, at Yokohama, to run in a circle also. In the large old folio history of China, from the French of Du Halde, printed in London one hundred and nineteen years ago (a copy of which is in the possession of John V.L. M’Mahon, Esq., of Baltimore), I find the following:—

“The Pneumatick Machines also, did not less excite the Emperor’s curiosity:

“They caused a Waggon to be made of light Wood about two Foot long: in the middle of it they placed a Brazen Vessel full of live coals, and upon that an Æolipile, the wind of which came down through a little Pipe upon a sort of a wheel made like the sails of a Wind mill; this little wheel turned another with an Axle tree, and by that means set the Waggon in Motion for two hours together. But lest room should be wanting to proceed constantly forward it was contrived to move circularly.”

Negotiations having progressed harmoniously, on the 13th of March launches were sent alongside of the storeships, and the presents for the Japanese being put in them, the captain of the Macedonian with a suite of officers, pulled ashore, and delivered them pro forma to the authorities. They were afterward pleasantly entertained by them. The Japanese must have formed a rather exaggerated opinion of the quantity of the presents intended for them by the Americans—judging from the size of the room set apart for their reception. They were given to understand that these were tokens of amity, not a tribute.

The presents for the emperor consisted of, among other things:—

A railway with steam-engine; a magnetic telegraph; a surf-boat; a life-boat; a printing-press; a fine lorgnette; a set of Audubon’s American Ornithology, splendidly bound; plates of American Indians; maps of different states of America; agricultural implements, with all the modern improvements; a piece of cloth; a bale of cotton; a stove; rifles, pistols, and swords; champagne, cordials, and American whiskey.

And for the empress (presuming there was one):—

A telescope; a lorgnette in a gilded case; a lady’s toilet-box, gilded; a scarlet velvet dress; a changeable silk dress flowered; a splendid robe; Audubon’s illustrated works; a handsome set of China; a mantelpiece clock; a parlor stove; a box of fine wines; a box of perfumery; a box of fancy soaps.

Among the presents, perhaps the one most valued, was a copy of Webster’s complete dictionary, to the imperial interpreter. To the high officers were given books, rifles, pistols, swords, wines, cloths, maps, stoves, clocks, and cordials, the latter of which they fully appreciated; and as regards clocks, when it was proposed to bring an engineer from shipboard to set them agoing, the Japanese said there was no occasion for that, for they had clockmakers in Yedo who understood them perfectly. They were curious to know, however, if Ericsson’s caloric engine, of which they had heard, had been successful. There were also given them a quantity of Irish potatoes, and an hydraulic-ram.

We had now been lying in their waters a month; the necessity for the reference of many things to Yedo, caused the negotiations to drag their weary length along. Diplomatizing may have been all very well for those engaged in it, and getting a munch of something fresh the while on shore, but the enchantment lent to those confined on board and compelled to watch proceedings with a spy-glass, or take exercise on a hurricane-deck, was very slight indeed. The supply of eatables brought from China had disappeared; ship’s rations were ubiquitous upon the table; and the appetite of an American exceeding, or at his ordinary meals consuming as much as four Japanese, the scanty supply of watery vegetables, a few pounds of fish, sweet potatoes, and chickens which had attained their majority, and upon whose muscular thighs neither the molars nor incisors of the most assiduous masculine chewer could make any impression—which negotiation obtained from shore—when distributed by signal from a storeship among a whole squadron, went but a little way. We were undergoing all the annoyances of a state of siege, without any of its excitements. And “Oh! it is sweet for one’s country to die,”—but not of short commons.

The Japanese said they had no objection to the officers going ashore to walk about the towns of Yokohama and Kanagawa, but trusted they would not for the present go further; the people had not become used to strangers, and their presence might produce unnecessary excitement among them.

The chaplain of the Susquehanna was ashore on the 14th, and took a long stroll, not getting aboard until ten o’clock at night. Had he made the best of his time he might have had a sight of the city of Yedo, but he spent some two or three hours in going to and fro in Kanagawa, and an adjoining place, which enabled the wily Japanese authorities time to communicate his whereabouts to the commodore, and to make complaint of it. He visited the very populous city of Kanagawa, and also Kasacca.

At a wave of the hand of the Japanese officials who accompanied him, the crowds of people opened a clear passage in the centre of the street for him. He entered some of the houses, which he found primitive in their furniture and arrangements, but, compared with other oriental dwellings of the same class, neat, clean, and comfortable. In some of them he observed clocks of Japanese manufacture. He also visited several temples, which though smaller than in China, have more gilding on their walls, and ornaments on their idols, and generally are in better order. The priests as well as the people were distinguished for their courtesy.

The cities thus visited were not only very extensive (estimated to be six miles long), but had wide, well-formed streets. As he was returning, a Japanese officer put into his hands an order from the commodore for all officers to return on board, and shortly afterward a courier, mounted on a splendid black horse, delivered a similar despatch, and finding it was understood and acted on, turned round and galloped back again to report the approach of the American officer, who concluded his journey by torch-light, and found on his arrival that everything that had occurred had been noted, even the number of buttons on his coat being recorded. On his route he met the escort and train of some high functionary, supposed to number some two thousand. They were supposed to be conveying to Yokohama the few presents which they said the emperor could only now send, for want of time to prepare others.

The negotiations, which were interrupted by the equinoctial gale, were resumed on the 17th of March. The commodore wished them to give us three or four ports; his squadron was a powerful one; but if he carried back an unsatisfactory answer to his government it would send another and a larger one for a different purpose. The Japanese were willing to give us one port then, and another in five years; they said they could not grant a port in the island of Yezo—hitherto called Matsmai—without consulting the prince of that department. To this, it was replied, “Give the port in the island of Niphon, and the squadron would go to see the prince of Matsmai.”

On the 19th of March the squadron was increased by the arrival of the storeship Supply, from China. She brought us the intelligence of a naval engagement between the Russians and the Turks; but the disappointment of many in not getting letters was great, and they thought

The Japanese having offered the harbor of Simoda, in the province of Idzoo, as one of the ports for American ships to visit, the Vandalia and Southampton were sent down to that place, to make a reconnoissance, and to report upon its facilities of entrance, and capacity. The weather was raw, rough, squally, and rainy. Agreeably to instructions from the government, received before leaving China—a wise thing, as naval commanders are always very chary, and not at all disposed to render any more facilities to the foreign diplomatic agents of the country, than they can help, on the 25th of the month, the steam-frigate Susquehanna left Japan for Hong Kong, to convey the new American commissioner to such of the Cinque ports as he desired to visit.

On the same day there was a landing, not for purposes of negotiation, but for the reception of the presents from the Japanese, which consisted of lacquered cabinets, desks, some silks, bags of rice, &c., not very numerous or at all comparable in use or value to those given them. On this occasion there was quite a number of officials present, who were compelled to manifest curiosity, when they saw the beautiful little locomotive, with its highly-finished rosewood car, complete in all the customary furniture, driven by a charcoal-fire alone, at a rate of a mile in three minutes, around a circular track of three hundred feet. The Americans were entertained with the contests in the ring of some Japanese athletes. These men were of great stature and much obesity, but their limbs displayed none of the angular muscularity, of a Monsieur Paul, lifting his cannon or resisting the draught of horses, or the pugilistic activity of the American Tom Hyers and Sullivans, who could no doubt whale them with little difficulty. These men are in the pay of princes, and have such designations as “Giant of the North,” &c. Their hair is gathered upon their head, as others of their country, though not shorn, perhaps to prevent their Samsonian qualities being affected. In front of their persons, which is otherwise unclothed, they wear a scarf, with the insignia of the prince they serve upon it. They commence with an exhibition of their strength, such as throwing with each hand over the shoulder, or lying on the ground, and somerseting with large straw-bags containing two hundred pounds of rice each. Then came the trial of the ring, not more than eight feet in diameter, and made of rice straw. Before commencing the combatants squatted and rubbed their knees, as if to assure themselves of their strength, and then rubbed a little dust under each arm, something like an infuriated cow, when she throws it on her back, and then with a grunt they closed, and though the claret was occasionally drawn, and great welts were raised upon the shoulders, yet there did not appear much of that belicosity, descriptions of which have graced some of the columns of the papers of our own country, since the infusion into it of Bill Poole blackguardism. The effort was rather to get one another out of the ring, when the effort ends. After being sufficiently amused at this intellectual display, the commodore and party returned aboard.

Nearly every day, some of the Japanese officials came off to the flag-ship to arrange in the preparation of the treaty, that matters might be facilitated during the formal interviews held ashore. Chief at such times, on their part, was Moriyama Yenoske, the imperial interpreter in the Dutch language; indeed he was the man of the treaty, so far as the Japanese were concerned; to his friendly regard to the Americans, his clear appreciation of propositions, and the accurate conveyance of them to the minds of the commissioners by his translations, we are much indebted.

On the 27th an entertainment was given to the commissioners on board of the flag-ship. It was the first time that the Japanese imperial flag floated from the mast-heads of foreign men-of-war. The guests came off about three o’clock in the afternoon. On passing the Mississippi they received a salute of seventeen great guns. They first went aboard of the Macedonian, when her crew were beat to general quarters, and the broadside-guns of the ship, together with her large “pivots,” exercised before them. From here they went to the flag-ship Powhatan, but some of them, who had changed from their steady-moving boats, by invitation, to our buoyant and lively ones, did not have their appetites for the repast that awaited them, improved by the qualmy motion. On the Powhatan they were shown the exercise and rapid firing of the twelve-pounder howitzers, in which they appeared to take much interest. They then partook of a dinner, which had been spread for them: the commissioners dining with the commodore, and the rest of the company from tables spread under the awnings of the quarter-deck. The Japanese did full justice to the dishes before them, and when partaken to satiety, they aided the disappearance of the food, after the manner of their country, by wrapping up and taking away an occasional pie or sweetmeat of which they are very fond. Music from the band regaled the occasion, and as the hermetics drained their draughts of champagne and cordial down, they became very social, if not confidential, and proposed frequent sentiments of friendship between “Nipong” and America. With such a people, John Barleycorn is very potent: particularly in treaty-making. At night on the forecastle the Japanese witnessed a capital Ethiopic performance, at which they appeared much amused. Indeed their stoic gravity had pretty well left them before this hour, and one of them, during the evening, indulged in a polka under the hurricane-deck with a very intelligent midshipman. They left at an early hour for the shore, and after a salute from the Saratoga, their flag was hauled down. One of the commissioners had a fancy for a large cake, which was given him by the commodore, together with some cordial, to be sent ashore the next day. During the night one of the orderlies at the cabin-door stole and made away with the cake. Not wishing to give the Japanese the bad idea of our men, that the mention of this theft might produce, the diplomacy was resorted to of telling the Japanese, when presenting the wine, that it was an American custom to present cake in the evening; by which time, another one had been made, and was sent ashore.

On the last day of March, the ships having gotten back from Simoda, and made their report as to that harbor, the commodore had his last official interview ashore, with the commissioners, at Yokahama, Kanagawa, when after much difficulty, and talking, and debate as to the wording, the following treaty was signed:—

“The respective plenipotentiaries” did not sign.

The night before the signing of the treaty, the officials were aboard of the flag-ship until a very late hour, composing with great care the various prepared copies of the treaty, as they had been enrolled. In the Japanese copy they discovered an error in the formation of one character, which they desired to be altered to prevent as they said, any misconstruction hereafter. They did not understand the “ratification” of treaties: with them an obligation once signed, was full and complete, and they did not see any necessity for any supplementary action by the contracting parties.

After the signing of the treaty the commodore intimated his purpose of going up to Yedo and saluting the emperor; if he could not reach the city in his steamers, he could in the ship’s boats. To this they objected. They were told if they had objections, they should have included them in the treaty.

This treaty, it will be seen, is not one of commerce, but of friendship or amity. It is said that the Japanese had some objection to signing their copy with the words “Lord Jesus Christ” in it. It was understood, that Hakodade was not to be visited by the squadron, until fifty days had elapsed from the date of signing.

The Japanese were desirous of knowing from our fleet-captain, whether the English and the French were coming up to Japan, when the American squadron should have left: the answer was, we did not know.

There was something rather mysterious about Yezimon, the little deputy-governor of Uraga. At the time of our first visit, he took quite a conspicuous part in all the intercourse, but on our return, it appears, he had to pale his ineffectual fire before greater luminaries. Very little was seen of him, indeed, if he was seen at all on our return. The great familiarity and sociability that he had displayed when on board of our ships had probably gotten him into trouble. The officials declined saying anything about him; when he was asked for, and one of the officers informed them that he had a Colt’s revolver which he desired to present to Yezimon before leaving, they said they had rather that it should not be done, and added, that they could not speak about him.

On the 4th of April, after an absence from the United States of over four years, the sloop-of-war Saratoga left for home. In her went as passenger Commander H.A. Adams, captain of the fleet—bearing to the United States, by way of the Sandwich Islands and the Californian route, copies of the treaty in English and Japanese, and three copies in Dutch certified to by A.L.C. Portman, Esq., and Moriyama Yenoske, intended to be the first intelligence home of the completion of the treaty. There also went home in her a number of invalid officers who had undergone the enervation and emaciation produced by the heat and diseases of an East India climate. As the Saratoga passed out she fired her parting salute, and was cheered by the remaining ships of the squadron, the bands playing “Home, Sweet Home!” in a manner that caused each heart to heave. Every one who thought of the long while she had been out, wished fair winds to fill her sails, and Heaven speed her!

The interpreter, and others, continued their friendly visits to the ships, wearing when the weather was bad, a singular rain-cloak called meno, made up of a number of tassels of a kind of mountain fern, pendent from the junction of meshes knit from the same material, and having outside a covering of green silk network. They would tell us in answer to the question “Could we now see the emperor?” “No; too young man.” They had told us that it would require some days before they could arrange a bazar at Simoda, where we might be able to procure specimens of their lacquer-ware, porcelain, &c.; and in the meantime our surveying-boats, when the weather would permit, were kept constantly going.

The 10th of April, being the birthday of the commodore, I suppose he wished to signalize it by a nearer approach to the city of Yedo, and accordingly early in the morning a signal was thrown out for the squadron to get under way, which was done, the Mississippi leading up the bay, and the Powhatan and the sailing ships following, with the exception of the Lexington, which got aground just as her anchor was away. This movement being perceived from shore, the Japanese interpreters Moriyama Yenoske, Hernyama, Gohara, and Namura Gohachiro, third interpreter, at once rowed off under much excitement. The latter came aboard of the Mississippi, the others went on board of the flag-ship; where they ascertained the commodore’s intention of going higher up the bay, Yenoske objected most strenuously, urging that the lives of each of the commissioners, and himself, were in danger for not preventing (?) it, or remonstrating against it; or previously advising their government; they said they could not tell but it was not possible to calculate the consequences. In reply, the commodore said that his instructions from the president were to go up to Yedo, and that he would have done so, but for the feelings of friendship that he entertained for the commissioners who preferred Yokohama for holding the conferences. They gave it to be understood that the anchoring of the ships off Yedo, would at once require of them the performance of the “Hari Kari,” or happy despatch—that they would be necessitated to this, according to a custom which it was no use to argue against, to save themselves and those related to them from dishonor; and that such was the case with each of the commissioners.

Hari Kari, meaning “happy despatch,” is the act of disembowelling one’s self with a sword, among the Japanese. The young man, of any family pretensions, is early indoctrinated in the art of self-destruction. He is also instructed as to the occasions and circumstances when this form of suicide is appropriate for a gentleman, either to preserve himself or those connected with him from dishonor. It is given him strictly in charge, to remember that the wearing of the badge of his position—two swords—is also typical of his courage; perhaps as Napoleon said, that he who cares nothing for his own life is master of that of others; and that one of these swords, like the dagger of Brutus, is for himself, when his country shall need his death. He desires that it shall be said of him, what Malcolm says of Cawdor:—

Or as Decitas said of Anthony:-

The commodore promised that the two steamers should only go up in sight of Yedo, and without dropping anchor, return. This quieted their apprehensions considerably. About twelve o’clock, when we had gotten a distant view of the great city, the water suddenly shoaled so as to prevent our further progress, when the boats that had been sounding ahead were recalled, the steamers put about, and the whole squadron proceeded directly down the bay to the anchorage off Nati Sima, or as called by us, Webster island, with the exception of the Mississippi that was sent to the assistance of the Lexington, but that ship having kedged off, we towed her to where the remaining ships had anchored.

Poor Namura Gohachiro, the third interpreter, who was aboard of us during the day’s movements, looked the while like a man whose time had come. He evinced no interest in anything that was going on around him, and during the day did not look over the side. He complained of sickness, and Jamaica ginger gave him no relief; he put aside his two swords, and lay on the cabin sofa; his great inquietude lasted until we had dropped anchor off Webster island, when he experienced the greatest relief, going over the side into his boat, which we had towed during the day, looking like one from around whose neck the halter had been taken.

The yearly number of those who now commit the Hari Kari, or “happy despatch,” in Japan, is estimated at four hundred.

The principal cause of the alarm of the Japanese officers, on the approach of the ships to Yedo, was in some anticipated outbreak on the part of its rabble, who must comprise a great number in a city of over fourteen hundred thousand inhabitants. These lazzaroni have more than once threatened the stability of the government; a huge unmanageable mob threatening destruction, and deaf to reason; a horrid hydra easily moved, but controlled only with great power and force. The effect upon such a population of the novel sight of two large steamers off their city, who in addition to other engines of destruction, were believed to have on board steam-guns, can be easily imagined, especially when the mob never expected to see such a sight again. Then, too, they are more eager after novelty because of having been kept in ignorance by the stringent laws against foreigners; and they have been taught that they are beneath laws.

Such is the intense curiosity of the Japanese character, and the great rush to gratify it, that at one time, before the signing of the treaty, there was as many as seventy thousand people from all parts of the country, congregated in Kanagawa and its immediate vicinity, eager to get a look at our ships, and endeavoring to get aboard. To furnish a pretext for their assemblage near the place of negotiations, many resorted to the ruse of offering their services to the authorities, in the event of the negotiations with the Americans, taking a hostile turn. Many of the princes of the empire, anxious to see the ships and not being able to get permission or authority to do so, resorted to the plan of getting on board by going disguised in the suite of Moriyama Yenoske, the chief interpreter. On one occasion—April 4th—a number of Japanese gentlemen of rank, having obtained permission to visit the ships, it was surmised, and upon very good authority, that the young emperor himself had been aboard. His features would probably not be known to one of his subjects outside of his immediate attendants or council. The boldness and tact with which they manage nayboen matters is remarkable. The interpreters were always very cautious, and never committed themselves by giving information. A great many of the better class Japanese, who came aboard, were able to write, and sometimes speak a little Dutch (Holland), and generally expressed themselves with much correctness.

The next morning, after anchoring off Nati Sima, the Macedonian was despatched to the Bonin islands with some agricultural implements, and to look after some men, with orders to join us at Simoda.

While our surveying boats were running their line of soundings, and triangulating in the vicinity of the anchorage, some of the officers, in other boats, paid visits to Webster island, which afforded a fine opportunity for exercise, besides being a very pretty view. Before returning to the ships, we pulled into a number of little inlets and small bays near by. The hill-sides were well wooded, and the deep green of the thorough cultivation on terraces and steppes was delightful to the eye. In some obscure coves, were built stone piers for landing, and a number of junks had been beached, and their owners were preparing them, or firing their bottoms, that the sea slime might be removed and their speed increased. In others, the fronts of large quarries of sandstone, and what appeared to be fuller’s earth, approach the edge of the water. The latter was cut away in square blocks, leaving the face of the hills like the smooth masonry of a curtain-wall and bastion.

On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia and Lexington having preceded us, the Powhatan and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the bay of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships as we went, after passing Sagama cape, the two ships stood over in the direction of Ohosima, that the bearings of that island might be taken, and then headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay of Kawatsu on our right hand. The volcano on Ohorima was not in a state of eruption, as when we passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape Idzoo, and by three o’clock were up with Rock island, that marks the mouth, and ran into the harbor of Simoda. This place from having been visited in May, 1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own sailing ships, which preceded us, were no novelty to the people, but the approach of the Powhatan and Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow entrance, filled the height on either side with a throng, looking for the first time, and with wonder, on steamships.