THE first eight sauces are what we term Foundation sauces; but to facilitate and simplify the making of all kinds of made dishes, I have throughout this work principally referred to the Brown Sauce (No. 1), and the White Sauce (No. 7), which are the two sauces I daily and principally use. The others are of course very good, and sometimes necessary; but being more complicated, I would recommend that they be left to culinary artists, who can easily surmount this difficulty. The two above-mentioned sauces require nothing but a little care and attention; if well made, you will have little trouble with the smaller sauces; for the foundation sauces being well made, the smaller ones require little more than the ingredients directed for them, to give them their proper flavour; but if badly made, it would injure the whole dinner. The above-named sauces will keep four or five days in summer, and a week in winter, by adding a quart of light broth, and boiling them up every day in summer, and every other day in winter.

The following proportions in the foundation sauces are sufficient for a large dinner; but of course where so much is not required, a quarter, or even a smaller quantity can be made.

The colour of the brown sauce ought to be as near as possible to that of the horse-chesnut, whilst the white sauce should be of the colour of rich cream. If possible, nothing but the best flour should ever be used for a roux, which is the French culinary term for thickening; for inferior or new flour loses its strength by boiling, and your sauce would become thin and watery: but if such be the case, you should make more roux, to obviate this difficulty, which must be well mixed with a little cold stock, poured into the sauce, and all boiled together till you have obtained the consistency directed.

No. 1. Brown Sauce.

Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham cut into slices, which lay over the onions; having ready cut in large slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire; let it remain a quarter of an hour, then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze, then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown glaze; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light stock (No. 133), then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on the corner, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees, to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again, and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin, (by filling up the stewpan again with water you will have then an excellent second stock—for filling up stocks for soups or sauces, this remark also applies to every description of stocks;) if by any misfortune the stock should become thick, clarify it as directed (No. 134).

Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan, (which is the best for this purpose,) place it over the fire, stirring it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a few spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135).

No. 2. Espagnole Sauce.

Put half a pound of butter into a large thick-bottomed stewpan, and cover the bottom with good slices of ham about a quarter of an inch in thickness; then cut up two legs of veal into as large slices as possible, (having twenty pounds of meat,) but reserving the nut, or noix, for flanks or entrÉes, (see No. 565;) put the meat without any of the bone into the stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire for twenty minutes, then shake it round, to prevent the ham sticking to the bottom; cover it over quite close, then put a few ashes upon the fire; put the stewpan again over it, shaking it round occasionally, and once or twice turning the whole mass round together with a wooden spoon until the bottom is covered with a light glaze; prick the meat with a fork to let out the gravy, and with it remove the bottom pieces to the top; replace it upon the fire, shaking it round occasionally until each piece of meat be covered with a clear brown glaze; then fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133); add six onions (in one of which you have stuck six cloves), twelve peppercorns, two blades of mace, two carrots, a good bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; when it boils place it on the corner of the stove, skim it, and add two ounces of salt; let it boil rather quickly, adding two quarts of water by degrees, which will facilitate the abstraction of all the fat in skimming; boil it two hours, then pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin. Make a roux, and terminate your sauce as described in the last.

No. 3. Brown Sauce from all sorts of meat.

Knowing by experience the difficulty of getting meat for stock in the country, especially veal, I will, for the convenience of families, give a receipt for brown sauce, to be made from rabbits, poultry, trimmings of mutton, beef, pork, or even venison; (but to every ten pounds of meat required, use twelve, as it is not so succulent as beef or veal.) In Scotland I was compelled to use venison even for beef-tea; this may appear rather strange, but it is no less true; for although the wealth of my employer would have enabled me to have anything required for my use, money could not purchase it at the time required. The mock beef-tea had of course a wild flavour, but it was still very palatable. Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, upon which lay ten large onions peeled and cut in halves, then put in what trimmings of meat or poultry you may have, proceed exactly with it as directed for brown sauce (No. 1), but using stock or water in proportion to the quantity of meat; the same precaution must be used likewise with the quantity of roux used for thickening.

No. 4. For thickening Brown Sauce without making a roux.

Make your stock as directed in either of the three last receipts, (according to circumstances;) if sixteen quarts, bake two pounds of the best flour in a moderate oven, without letting it brown; sift it, and when quite cold mix it into a thin paste with two quarts of cold stock; mix it by degrees, getting it as smooth as possible; have the stock for your sauce boiling in a stewpan upon the fire, into which pour in the paste, keeping it stirred until it boils; then set it at the corner of the stove; let it simmer an hour and a half; skim it well, then place it upon a brisk fire, and add a few chopped mushrooms, boil it very quickly, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then pass it through a tammie as before, and use it where required.

No. 5. VeloutÉ.

This sauce has stood for a century as a foundation sauce in the highest class of cookery, and may be admired for its utility, and the delicacy of its flavour; but I have avoided referring to it in almost every receipt on account of the expense attached to it and its tedious fabrication. According to the old system, it requires two days to complete it; one for the simmering of the stock, and the other for the sauce. I have here, however, succeeded in simplifying it, by which the aroma of its component parts are better preserved than when subject to so long boiling.

Put six tablespoonfuls of oil in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it over the bottom, then lay in twenty pounds of veal in large slices, (from knuckles or the under part of legs,) an old fowl, two carrots, six onions, (in one of which you have stuck six cloves,) two blades of mace, four pounds of good ham, and a bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and place the stewpan upon a sharp fire; when it begins to form large bubbles, stir the whole round with a large wooden spoon; place some ashes upon the fire, and some live charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan; take off the lid occasionally, and stir the meat round, prick it, and when each piece is covered with a light white glaze fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133), or water, add a quarter of a pound of salt, if water, but only three ounces, if stock; when upon the point of boiling, stand it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer for two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, and adding a little cold water every now and then, to clarify it and keep its quantity; pass it through a fine cloth into a basin; then in another stewpan have a pound of fresh butter, which melt upon a slow fire, stirring in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes (but do not let it change colour), add the trimmings of half a pottle of mushrooms; stir it round another minute, then take it off the fire and keep stirring it until about half cold; then pour in the stock all at once, keeping it stirred quickly; place it over a sharp fire, and stir it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed; pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold; when wanted, take the quantity you require, reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with half a pint of cream or boiled milk.

This sauce, when well made, should be as white as ivory; it is used for removes or entrÉes of poultry, and may be substituted for white sauce in any of these receipts.

No. 6. VeloutÉ, a plainer way.

Well oil the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut twelve pounds of veal in dice, (lamb trimmings or rabbits may be used with it,) and two pounds of lean ham also cut in dice; put the whole into the stewpan with three onions, a carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round occasionally, (the fire should be sharp at first, but very slow at the finish,) until the meat and the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a pound of flour, mix it well with the meat, then fill up the stewpan with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or water; add three ounces of salt, if with water, but two if with stock, and keep moving it round until upon the point of boiling, when place it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed; then pass it through a hair sieve into a basin, and again through a tammie into another stewpan; add a few chopped mushrooms; stir it over the fire until it is reduced to a proper consistency, (this sauce is quickly done, and full of flavour;) finish with a pint of cream or boiling milk, and use it as directed in the last.

No. 7. Veal Stock, White Sauce, or Bechamel.

Cut twelve pounds of knuckles of veal into large dice, with two pounds of lean ham; well butter the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, (some of the bones of the knuckles may be included in the weight of the meat, but not much,) with three large onions, one carrot, a blade of mace, four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in half a pint of water, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a clear white glaze, then fill it up with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or nine of water; add three ounces of salt, and when upon the point of boiling, place it on the corner of the fire; let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it skimmed, and adding cold water occasionally, to keep the quantity, then pass it through a fine cloth into a basin;[3] then in another stewpan have one pound of fresh butter, melt it over a slow fire and stir in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes, but do not let it change colour; then take it from the fire, stirring it until half cold, then pour in the stock, stirring it quickly all the time; place it over a sharp fire, keep stirring, and boil it for half an hour; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and a quart of boiling milk; boil it ten minutes longer, then pass it through a tammie into a basin; stir it occasionally until cold, and use it where required.

This sauce is easily made, full of flavour, and has a very good appearance.

No. 8. Sauce Allemande; (or German Sauce blanche.)

Is made from either of the three foregoing sauces. Put three quarts in a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire; reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred the whole time, it will then be very thick; have the yolks of six eggs in a convenient sized basin; mix the sauce with them by degrees, and turn it again into the stewpan; stir it again over the fire until the yolks are quite done, which will take about five minutes; have three pints of stock reserved from the original sauce, with which mix it by degrees; also add a pint of boiling milk, but do not make it too thin; boil it again ten minutes, then pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold.

Use it for entrÉes or removes of poultry, either hot or cold; but for cold removes of poultry it is best adapted.

This sauce never looks greasy; it will keep four or five days.

No. 9. Demi-Glace.

Put two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with one quart of consommÉ (No. 134), one ounce of glaze, four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), place it over the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner, let it simmer very fast, skim it well, and reduce it to a clear light glaze, with sufficient consistence to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon; then put it by in a basin, and use it where directed.

All thin sauces are or will become very much in vogue; they invigorate the appetite without overloading the stomach; and are, consequently, more wholesome; all brown sauces are preferable for meat or game entrÉes, and in some instances, which you will see, for poultry; but of course the arrangement of your tables would prevent you serving all white or all brown entrÉes.

For families who have their entrÉes placed upon the table at the same time as the soup and fish, a thin sauce is much preferable; for if even the sauce should retain the same degree of heat it was served at, it will become much thicker by standing; but a sauce served thick if allowed to remain becomes almost uneatable.

No. 10. Sauce au jus d’Estragon.

Put two spoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommÉ (No. 134), add a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place it over the fire and let it reduce very fast until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add thirty fresh leaves of tarragon, let it just boil up and it is ready for use. Do not make it too long before you require to use it, or the tarragon would spoil the appearance of the sauce.

No. 11. Jus d’Estragon clair.

Put two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place it over the fire, let it boil, then add a quart of consommÉ (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), reduce it to half, season with a little sugar and pepper, finish with leaves of tarragon, as in the last.

No. 12. Sauce au jus de Tomates.

Put an onion in slices into a stewpan with two sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, one clove, four sprigs of parsley, two ounces of lean ham, and one ounce of butter; stir them round over a slow fire until becoming rather brown, then add a spoonful of Chili vinegar, ten of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten of consommÉ (No. 134), boil altogether about ten minutes, skim it, then add ten spoonfuls of very bright preserved tomates, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a very little scraped garlic; season with a little cayenne pepper and salt; boil altogether five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, set it upon the fire, boil and skim it. Use it where directed.

No. 13. Sauce au jus de Champignons.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace, (No. 9), into a stewpan with six of consommÉ (No. 134), and a little sugar; place it upon the fire and reduce it to a clear light demi-glaze; skim it well, then have chopped six good fresh mushrooms, throw them into the sauce, boil them ten minutes, then rub them through a tammie; put it again into a stewpan, warm it, but do not let it boil; after you have passed it, if made in the morning, warm it in your bain marie when required.

No. 14. Sauce demi-provenÇale.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with sixteen of consommÉ (No. 134), place it over a sharp fire, reduce it to two thirds, skim it, scrape half a clove of garlic with a knife, and put it into the sauce with a little sugar, boil it again two minutes, and it is ready for use.

No. 15. Sauce au jus piquant.

Put two spoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with three of vinegar; reduce it to half over the fire, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommÉ (No. 134), boil it about a quarter of an hour, skim it well, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and when again forming a light glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, and a little cayenne pepper; it must not boil afterwards.

No. 16. Sauce au jus d’Echalote.

Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place it over a sharp fire a couple of minutes, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommÉ (No. 134), boil, skim, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar and cayenne pepper. Serve where directed.

No. 17. Sauce au jus d’Orange.

Take the rind from an orange as thinly as possible, take off all the pith, and cut it into thin strips, three quarters of an inch in length; boil them five minutes in water, and drain them upon the back of a hair sieve; then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it over the fire to the consistency of demi-glace, then add the rind of the orange and a little sugar, boil it another five minutes, and when ready to serve add a little of the juice of the orange.

No. 18. Sauce au jus de Bigarades.

Proceed as directed in the last, but substituting a Seville orange for the sweet one, and boiling the rind ten minutes instead of five.

No. 19. Jus liÉ demi Currie.

Peel and cut in slices a large onion, some carrot, turnip, two apples, and two ounces of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two cloves, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, parsley, and one ounce of butter; put the stewpan over a slow fire, stir them round occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of the best curry powder, mix it well, then add ten of consommÉ (No. 134) and eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), boil altogether, then rub it through a tammie; put it in another stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim it well, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when add a little sugar and cayenne if required, but that must depend entirely upon taste.

No. 20. Jus liÉ aux Concombres.

Prepare three middling-sized cucumbers, as directed (No. 103), then put two ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half one of chopped onions, into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter is melted add the cucumbers, which pass over the fire until tender and slightly tinged; then put them out upon a cloth, put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into another stewpan with six of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it until rather thickish; then add the cucumbers, boil them two minutes, season with a saltspoonful of salt, and the half of one of pepper, skim it, and it is ready to serve.

No. 21. Jus liÉ aux Truffles.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with ten of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it until it becomes again a demi-glace, then add six middling-sized French preserved truffles, cut in thin slices, with a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, simmer gently ten minutes, it is then ready to serve.

No. 22. Jus liÉ aux Anchois.

Put six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with three of consommÉ (No. 134), and one of brown gravy (No. 135), place it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 78), stir it in quickly, but do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be made only at the time of serving.

No. 23. Jus liÉ aux fines Herbes.

Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; stir them over the fire until lightly browned; then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and eight of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skim it well, then add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms, with a little cayenne pepper, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; boil altogether five minutes, and finish with the juice of half a lemon; it is then ready for use.

No. 24. Jus liÉ aux petits Navets.

Scoop four large turnips with a scoop about double the size of a pea; when done, wash and well dry them upon a cloth, then put a little powdered sugar into a convenient sized stewpan; place it upon the fire, when it melts and becomes slightly tinged, throw in an ounce of butter and the turnips, place them over a slow fire, tossing them over occasionally until slightly browned; then in another stewpan put ten spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9,) and six of consommÉ, then add your turnips; let it simmer upon the corner of the fire, keeping it skimmed until the turnips are done; add a little more seasoning, if required, and it is ready for use.

No. 25. Jus liÉ aux Olives.

Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with the same of salad oil; pass them five minutes over a slow fire, then add a teaspoonful of port wine, eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skimming it well, then have twenty fine olives, turn them, taking out their stones, so that they resume their original shape, put them into the stewpan with a little sugar, boil them two minutes, and the sauce is ready. Should the olives be too salt, soak them a short time in warm water.

No. 26. Sauce aux fines Herbes.

Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until getting rather brownish, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and one of preserved tomates; season with a little sugar, cayenne, and salt, if required. When ready to serve add the juice of half a lemon.

No. 27. Sauce piquante.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with four of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; let them boil together a few minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), stir it quickly over a sharp fire until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins; it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be seasoned rather high with cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt.

No. 28. Sauce Robert.

Peel and cut up four middling-sized onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until rather brown; then add two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), let it simmer at the corner of the stove ten minutes; skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until rather thick; finish it with two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, a little sugar, and salt, if required.

No. 29. Sauce Robert demi-provenÇale.

Put the same quantity of onions into a stewpan as in the last, but using two tablespoonfuls of salad oil instead of butter; proceed as in the last, and finish with a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea. Use this sauce for any purpose you would the preceding one.

No. 30. Sauce À l’Italienne.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, stir them ten minutes over a sharp fire; then add a wine-glassful of sherry, a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), set it over a sharp fire until it boils, then place it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim off all the oil which it will throw up, then place it over the fire, stir with a spoon, reducing it until it adheres to the back of it, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little sugar, salt if required, and finish with the juice of half a lemon.

No. 31. Sauce À l’Italienne (white.)

Italian sauce for any description of fish, white meat, or poultry, must be made white, which is done by following the directions of the preceding receipts, only substituting white sauce (No. 7) for the brown, and finishing with three spoonfuls of cream.

No. 32. Sauce Poivrade.

Put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices, into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little celery, leek, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, two ounces of lean ham, and eight peppercorns; pass them over a sharp fire until rather brown, add six tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, just boil it, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134); simmer a short time, skim it, then reduce quickly until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a tammie and use where directed. This sauce requires to be highly seasoned.

No. 33. Sauce poivrade demi-provenÇale.

Proceed as in the last, but adding two eschalots to the vegetables, which pass[4] in a tablespoonful of oil instead of butter, and finish with a little scraped garlic.

No. 34. Sauce À la BateliÈre.

Put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped tarragon, one of chopped parsley, and four of chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with one blade of mace, three cloves, a wineglassful of vinegar, and one of sherry; set it upon the fire until nearly dry, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), with a pint of consommÉ, (No. 134), reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped gherkins, and one of chopped capers; when ready to serve stir in an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78). Do not let it boil afterwards.

This sauce is a good zest for any description of broiled meat or poultry.

No. 35. Sauce À la RÉform.

Cut up two middling-sized onions into thin slices and put them into a stewpan with two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of mace, and an ounce of fresh butter; stir them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, and one of Chili vinegar, boil it one minute; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), or sauce Espagnole (No. 2), three tablespoonfuls of preserved tomates, and eight of consommÉ (No. 134); place it over the fire until boiling, then put it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and reduce until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a good tablespoonful of red currant jelly, and half do. of chopped mushrooms; season a little more if required with pepper and salt; stir it until the jelly is melted, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When ready to serve, make it hot, and add the white of a hard-boiled egg cut into strips half an inch long, and thick in proportion, four white blanched mushrooms, one gherkin, two green Indian pickles, and half an ounce of cooked ham, or tongue, all cut in strips like the white of egg; do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be poured over whatever it is served with.

No. 36. Sauce au jus de Groseilles.

Put a couple of onions in slices into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf; pass them over a sharp fire until lightly browned; add two teaspoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil, and then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommÉ (No. 134); let it simmer ten minutes at the corner of the fire, skim it well, then place it over the fire, stir and reduce it well, until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon; then add two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; pass it through a tammie, and it is ready to serve with roast hares, fillet, &c., where directed.

No. 37. Sauce aux Tomates.

Procure two dozen ripe tomates, take out the stalk, squeeze out the juice and the seeds, then put them into a stewpan with a little salt, stew until tender, and drain them upon a sieve; then, in another stewpan, put two onions, part of a carrot, and a turnip, all cut in very thin slices, with a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, a blade of mace, a clove of garlic, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, stir the mierepoix round occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, then add the tomates, stir them over the fire another minute, then stir in six ounces of flour, and add two quarts of consommÉ (No. 134); boil altogether twenty-five minutes, keeping it stirred, season it with a little salt, sugar, and cayenne pepper, then rub it through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, set it over the fire, when boiling place it at the corner, let simmer ten minutes, skim well, then pour it in a basin, and use where directed. If no tomates, use two bottles of preserved tomatas. If too thick, dilute it with a little more consommÉ.

No. 38. Sauce À la Tartare.

Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair-sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a little salt and pepper; mix altogether with a wooden spoon; have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it in very gradually, and with the right continue stirring it round until it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a little Tarragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a tablespoonful of finely-chopped gherkins, half a do. of chopped capers, half a do. of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more salt if required, it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned.

No. 39. Papillote Sauce.

Scrape two ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, and four of chopped mushrooms; stir them over a moderate fire ten minutes, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well) and a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it simmer ten minutes, skim it; then add a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, then place it upon the fire; keep it stirred, and reduce until rather thick, then pour it into a basin, and use where directed. This sauce requires to be thick, but not pasty; it is folded in paper with cotelettes, joints of poultry, game, &c., with which it is also broiled and served, without taking them out of the papers.

No. 40. Sauce À la Diable.

Chop six large eschalots, wash and press them in a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with two wine-glasses full of Chili vinegar, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, and an ounce of glaze; boil all together ten minutes, then add four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a little sugar, and ten of good gravy; boil it ten minutes longer, then add a pat of butter; stir it well in, and it is ready for use; serve it with devilled kidneys, poultry, or anything broiled.

No. 41. Sauce Corinthien.

Put four chopped gherkins into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of capers, two of red currant jelly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of chopped chalots, one of chopped parsley, a wine-glassful of vinegar, and half a tablespoonful of sugar; boil all together five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and twelve of tomate sauce (No. 37), with six of white broth; boil and skim it well; this peculiar sauce is good for all kinds of broiled meat, game, or poultry, or may be eaten cold, with cold meat.

No. 42. Sauce ProvenÇale chaude.

Put two yolks of egg in a stewpan, with half a tablespoonful of flour, half a clove of garlic well scraped, a small quantity of cayenne pepper, two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place it over a moderate fire, and stir it until it becomes rather thick; then take it off the fire, stir in two tablespoonfuls of oil by degrees, then eight of melted butter; if you should require to warm it again, stir it in a bain marie of hot water. Use where required.

No. 43. Sauce À la MaÎtre d’HÔtel.

Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in three ounces of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79); stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.

No. 44. Sauce À la Ravigote.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only using Ravigote butter (No. 80), instead of the maÎtre d’hÔtel butter, as there directed.

The simplicity of the last two sauces is perhaps not greater than their utility or delicacy; they may not only be served with various descriptions of fish where directed, but with fillets of beef, mutton and lamb cutlets, calf’s head, calves’ tails, and many other articles where directed in this work.

No. 45. Sauce À l’Indienne.

Put two good tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with four of white vinegar from a bottle of mild Indian pickles, boil them a couple of minutes, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and three tablespoonfuls of white broth; reduce it over a sharp fire (keeping it stirred) until rather thickish, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan; when ready to serve make it hot, and add six of the pickles, cut in strips, which serve in it.

No. 46. Curry Sauce.

Peel four large onions and two apples, slice, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a blade of mace, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry-powder, and two of flour; mix it well in, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a quart of white stock; season with a little salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil it a quarter of an hour, keeping it stirred, then rub through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, boil it up, skim and use it where required. Mangoes or curry paste may be used, but then you only require one spoonful of curry powder.

No. 47. Sauce Soubise.

Peel six large onions, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and place them over a slow fire, stirring occasionally until tender, but keeping them quite white; then add an ounce of flour, mix it well in, then half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; boil altogether twenty minutes; season with half a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, half ditto of salt, and three quarters ditto of sugar, a little cream may also be added; rub through a tammie, put it in another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where required. This sauce must be rather thick, but not pasty.

No. 48. Sauce Soubise (brown).

Peel and slice six onions, as in the last, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over a moderate fire until tender and of a light brown colour, then mix in one tablespoonful of flour, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten tablespoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), boil altogether until the onions are quite done, season with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where directed.

No. 49. Sauce À la Milanaise.

Cut thirty pieces of blanched maccaroni half an inch in length, as many pieces of lean cooked ham of the same size, and an equal quantity of white blanched mushrooms also the same, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), in a stewpan with four of white broth, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar; boil it ten minutes, then add the above ingredients with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, stir all gently over the fire ten minutes, finish with a tablespoonful of cream, and use where required.

No. 50. Sauce ou Ragout À la FinanciÈre.

Put a wineglassful of sherry into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and a bay-leaf, place it upon the fire, and when it boils add a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred; then add twelve fresh blanched mushrooms, twelve prepared cockscombs, a throat sweetbread cut into thin slices, two French preserved truffles also in slices, and twelve small quenelles (No. 120); boil altogether ten minutes, skim it well, thin it with a little consommÉ if required, but it must be rather thick, and seasoned very palatably.

The above may also be made white by using bechamel, or white sauce (No. 7) instead of brown, and following the above directions and finishing with half a gill of cream; serve in a vol-au-vent or wherever directed.

No. 51. Sauce aux Truffles.

Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, place it over the fire, keeping it stirred until it has reduced one third; have four middling-sized preserved French truffles cut into slices, which throw into the sauce, add a little sugar, and take it from the fire, not allowing it to boil after the truffles are in; it is then ready to serve where directed: by this simple method you retain the full flavour of the truffles, and keep them tender. Sauce aux truffles may also be made white by using white sauce (No. 7), instead of demi-glace, and finishing with half a gill of cream, but it requires to be rather thicker than the brown. When brown, neither this sauce nor the following must be too thick.

No. 52. Sauce aux Champignons.

Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred, then add twenty blanched mushrooms (No. 107), a little catsup, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil altogether a few minutes, skim it, and it is ready to serve. To make it white put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan with half a teaspoonful of sugar, when it boils add twenty mushrooms, boil altogether ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, but do not let it boil afterwards.

No. 53. Sauce À la purÉe de Truffles.

Well pound eight middling-sized French preserved truffles, which afterwards rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put half an onion, a small piece of carrot and turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender; then add half a glass of wine and the pounded truffles, with which mix half a teaspoonful of flour; then add eight good tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil it ten minutes; then rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, add a little consommÉ (No. 134), boil it up, season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, and use where directed.

No. 54. Sauce À la purÉe de Champignons.

Well pound a pottle of very fresh white mushrooms, then put half an onion, a small piece of carrot, and a small piece of turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender, then add the mushrooms, and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little salt, and sugar, boil it ten minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of cream, and rub it through a tammie, put it into a stewpan, boil it one minute, and it is ready for use.

No. 55. Sauce Perigeux.

Put four middling-sized truffles, chopped very fine, into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, boil it one minute, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, boil a minute and it is ready to serve.

No. 56. Sauce Bechamel À la CrÈme.

Put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock (No. 133), in a stewpan, reduce it over a sharp fire, (keeping it stirred), to one half, then add half a pint of good cream, a little sugar, and salt if required, boil it another minute, and serve where required.

No. 57. Sauce au SuprÊme.

Take the bones of a fowl you have filetted, or the trimmings of any other fowl, either roast or braised, (which is preferable if any,) but if using the bones of a raw fowl lay it in warm water two hours to disgorge, break the bones small and put them into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, a glass of sherry, one onion with a clove stuck in it, and one ounce of ham; place it over a good fire, keep stirring occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze, then add a quart of light broth (No. 133), let it boil at the corner of the stove, skim and reduce it to one third, pass it through a cloth, (but first carefully take off every particle of fat), into a large stewpan, add a pint of veloutÉ (No. 5), or bechamel (No. 7), reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a little sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream, boil two minutes longer, pass it through a tammie, and use where required.

No. 58. VeloutÉ de Gibier.

Must be made either from pheasant or partridge; (wild rabbit may be introduced); chop up the bones, which put into a stewpan with an onion, the quarter of a carrot, and the quarter of a turnip (cut up small), a little parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf; add a glass of white wine; pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add a quart of sauce veloutÉ (No. 5), or sauce bechamel (No. 7), and a pint of veal stock; place it again over the fire, and keep stirring until it becomes rather thickish; then add a gill of cream, and a little sugar, boil again until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie, and use where directed. The bones of two partridges or one pheasant would be sufficient.

No. 59. Sauce À la purÉe de Gibier.

Roast a grouse, and separate all the flesh from the bones, make a sauce with the bones as directed in the next; pound the flesh well in a mortar, put it into a stewpan; then add the sauce, boil altogether five minutes, then rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed.

Any description of game, or the remains of some from a previous dinner, may be used for the above purpose; the purÉe requires to be as thick as bechamel sauce (No. 7).

No. 60. Sauce au fumÉe de Gibier.

Roast two grouse, let them get partly cold if time permits, then cut them into joints, which use for a salmi (see No. 876); chop the trimmings up small, with the back bones, and put them into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of turnip, all in slices, a little celery, a sprig of thyme, and parsley, a bay-leaf, one clove, and half a blade of mace, stir them over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommÉ (No. 134); boil quickly upon the corner of the stove twenty minutes, then skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie into a basin, and use where required.

The trimmings of any description of game, or some left from a previous dinner, may be used for making the above sauce, but if you have the choice, the trimmings of grouse are preferable.

No. 61. Demi-glace de Gibier.

Make a sauce as above, when passed put it into a stewpan with a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), and a tablespoonful of tomate sauce (No. 37); simmer it at the corner of the stove ten minutes, add a little sugar, skim it well, then reduce it quickly until a thinish glaze is formed and adheres to the back of the spoon.

No. 62. Sauce Matelotte.

Peel about twenty button onions, then put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, and your onions, pass them over the fire until rather brown; then add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten spoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender, skim it well; then add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), ten heads of mushrooms, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, one of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and a little cayenne pepper. Serve where directed.

No. 63. Sauce Genevoise.

Put one tablespoonful of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the fire until lightly browned, then add four glasses of port wine, two cloves, and half a blade of mace, with two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, and one of parsley, boil them a few minutes; then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten tablespoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce it until rather thick; then add one tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, boil it another minute, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan; when just ready to serve, boil it up, season it with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, then stir in one ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78), but do not let it boil after. Serve with any description as directed.

No. 64. Sauce À la Beyrout.

Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with one of Chili vinegar and one of common vinegar, eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter, four of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce; then place it over the fire, keep stirring until boiling, then place it at the corner of the stove, let it simmer five minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire and stir until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready to serve.

The above is a fish sauce, but may be used for meat or poultry by substituting white sauce (No. 7) for melted butter (No. 71).

No. 65. Sauce À l’essence de Poissons.

Have the bones of two whitings or soles, (having used the fillets), break them into pieces and put them into a stewpan with an onion in slices, a good bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay-leaf, two cloves, one glass of sherry, and ten of white broth; place it over the fire and let it reduce until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of white broth, let it boil twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, boil it again, and finish with half a gill of cream and a little pepper and salt if required.

No. 66. Sauce À la Hollandaise.

Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan with the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring it with a wooden spoon, (taking it off the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the butter becomes melted and thickens with the eggs, (great care must be exercised, for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle and render the sauce useless); then add a pint of melted butter, stir it together over the fire, but do not let it boil; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When wanted stir it over the fire until quite hot.

No. 67. Caper Sauce.

Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh butter and three tablespoonfuls of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.

No. 68. Lobster Sauce.

Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, cut, a middling sized hen lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed (No. 77); when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce round over the fire, until the butter is melted; season with a little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, then add the flesh of the lobster. When hot, it is ready to serve where directed. This sauce must be quite red, if no red in the lobster use live spawn.

No. 69. Oyster Sauce.

Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan with two ounces of flour; then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, as directed (No. 342); put the oysters into another stewpan, and the beards and liquor to the other ingredients, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten minutes; then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce; then pass it through a tammie over the oysters; make the whole very hot, without boiling, when ready to serve.

Another method.

Put a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with the juice and beards of three dozen oysters, as above, six peppercorns, two cloves, half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required; pass it through a tammie over the oysters, as before.

A plainer method.

Blanch three dozen oysters, take away their beards, and put them, with their liquor, into a stewpan, with half a blade of mace, two cloves, and six peppercorns; place them over the fire, and directly they boil add half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of flour; shake the stewpan round over the fire two or three minutes, then add a little essence of anchovies; take out the spices, and serve; this sauce is full of flavour, and very simple. If too thick add a little milk.

No. 70. Muscle Sauce.

Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, only using the liquor of muscle (see No. 341), but not the beards, instead of oysters, and serving muscle in the sauce; four dozen would be about the number required.

No. 71. Melted Butter.

Mix a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of flour, without putting it upon the fire; then add a pint and a half of cold water, place it upon the fire, keep stirring until upon the point of boiling, but do not let it boil; season with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of salt, and the eighth of one of pepper; pass it through a tammie into a basin, then add two ounces more of fresh butter; keep stirring till the butter is melted; it is then ready for use where required.

No. 72. Anchovy Sauce.

Make the same quantity of melted butter as directed in the last, but finish it with four good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies; there should be little or no salt in the melted butter.

No. 73. Shrimp Sauce.

Make the melted butter as for the last, but finish with three tablespoonfuls of the essence of shrimps, and serve half a pint of picked shrimps in the boat with it. If no essence of shrimps, the anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute.

No. 74. Demi MaÎtre d’HÔtel Sauce.

Put half the above quantity of melted butter in a stewpan, and when upon the point of boiling stir in a quarter of a pound of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79); directly it melts serve, but do not let it boil.

No. 75. Fennel Sauce.

This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel; make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; serve it in a boat.

No. 76. Egg Sauce.

Generally served with salt fish or a Dublin-bay haddock; boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the size of dice; have eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter and three of good cream in a stewpan, season with a little pepper and salt, boil it five minutes, then add the eggs; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the eggs are quite hot, then add two pats of butter; shake it round until the butter is melted, then pour it into a boat, and serve very hot.

No. 77. Lobster Butter.

Procure a full-sized hen lobster, and quite full of spawn, which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix them well together, then rub it through a hair-sieve, and put it on a plate upon the ice or in a cold place until wanted.

No. 78. Anchovy Butter.

Take the bones from ten anchovies, wash the fillets; dry them upon a cloth, and pound them well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; mix well together, and proceed as in the last.

No. 79. MaÎtre d’HÔtel Butter.

Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, with two good tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till required.

No. 80. Ravigote Butter.

Proceed as in the last, only substituting one spoonful of chopped Tarragon, and one of chopped chervils for the two of parsley, and adding half a spoonful of Chili vinegar.