My readers could not have failed to remark the numerous innovations in all classes of dishes throughout this work, which nothing but constant study, practice, and profound knowledge of the art could have brought to perfection. In the following Removes still greater innovations will be found than in any other department, for I have always aimed at producing the greatest effect upon the last dishes sent to table, particularly as they are the ones over which each convive has time to pass remarks, and admire, if properly executed. The transformation of the second course from the first has never failed to give the greatest satisfaction, and has often caused the greatest hilarity at table; some parties, unacquainted with them, have ordered their removal, thinking they belonged to the first course, whilst others have actually carved them before discovering their mistake. And, again, those Removes being only demi-glacÉ, and not too sweet, refresh the palate, disposes it more favorably for the dessert, and does not prevent the freely partaking of the ices which there cannot be avoided. Any kind of ice pudding, however excellent when done to perfection, is too close an imitation of the dessert ices, and properly belong to the confectioner.

To regenerate that finish of the dinner, which is very properly much thought of in England, it only requires a little artistic feeling, which is soon acquired by practice and perseverance. To simplify them as much as possible, I have only described one sort of sponge-cake, which is always varied in flavour by the different kinds of fruits and ices with which they are filled.

The introduction of atelettes of fruit in the Removes as well as in the jellies, is also quite a new idea, and renders the appearance of both very novel as well as very handsome.

No. 1298. Gateau Britannique À l’Amiral.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs as directed (No. 1369), have a tin mould in the shape of a vessel, which paper well at the sides, to prevent the mixture running over whilst baking (the mould requires to be eighteen inches in length, six in breadth, and high in proportion); butter and lightly flour the interior of the mould, into which pour the mixture, which bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven (this cake requires to be baked a day or two before using); mask the exterior with chocolate iceing (No. 1383) to imitate the colour of a ship, when quite dry partly empty the interior,[16] leaving a piece across in the centre, to fix the mast upon, which you have made of pÂte d’office (No. 1137), as also the ladders, rigging, and guns, by rolling pieces of the paste to the thickness required with the hands, cutting them to the lengths required, and baking them a light colour in a moderate oven; mask the guns with chocolate iceing, made rather darker than for the cake, and form the muzzles with small rings of puff paste, place them judiciously at the sides, as also the mast and rigging at their respective places (see design), place the vessel upon a dish, laying rather upon one side, lay rolls of gelÉe À la bacchante (No. 1240) round, over which lay thin slices of the same to form waves, make the sails of wafer or rice-paper, fix them to the mast as if filled with wind, upon the side the vessel is laying on, have also a flag made of the same material, painted with a little water-colour, which place at the stern; well soak the interior with wine and brandy, mixed with apricot marmalade, just before serving, and when ready fill with a delicate vanilla ice (No. 1381); you have previously formed some ropes of spun sugar, which affix to the rigging at the moment of serving.

This dish has a pleasing effect, and, unlike many ornamental dishes, the whole of it is eatable. It may be rather difficult for many, but with a few trials, aided by the above directions, I flatter myself it may be easily accomplished, but of course a great deal depends upon the taste of the person employed, who, if they could not accomplish one thing, would resort to another, and succeed in making a very handsome dish. Should you have no mould to bake the cake in, bake it in something as near as you can to the size, and afterwards shape it with a knife; and, again, should it be inconvenient to make the green jelly for garnishing, any other description of white clear jelly may be used. The remains and trimmings are very good made into cabinet pudding.

No. 1299. Hure de Sanglier glacÉ en surprise,

Or mock boar’s head; this dish, although more simple than the last, is no less pleasing. Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), which bake (in an oval baking-dish or common tin dish-cover) nearly two hours; the cake requires to be ten inches in thickness at one end, and about six at the other (which may be accomplished by tilting the dish slightly upon one end to bake the cake); the next day cut it into the shape of a dressed boar’s head with a knife, then carefully take out the interior to within an inch of the surface, in as large pieces as possible, put the pieces back again to keep the cake in its proper shape, turn it over upon the bottom of a large dish, and mask it all over with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of the real boar’s head, form the eyes with white iceing, placing a dried cherry in the centre, and forming the eyelashes with thin fillets of pistachios, make the tusks of gum paste (No. 1139) or pÂte d’office (No. 1137), and the ears of puff paste (No. 1132), by working it a little with the hands, giving them their shape, and baking them upon two round cutters of a corresponding size, fix them with a stiffish paste made of flour and white of eggs, when done, upon the head, and mask them also with chocolate iceing; fix in the tusks, and when well dried and ready to serve empty the interior, which soak with a little brandy, and fill with a lemon-cream ice (No. 1385) in which you have introduced four glasses of curaÇoa, turn it over upon a silver dish, glaze over with currant jelly, melted and mixed with a little wine, and garnish with gelÉe au citron (No. 1225) made reddish with a little cochineal, to give it the colour of a brown aspic (No. 1360), form some bold design upon the top (between the eyes) with it in croutons, and the remainder chopped and also in croutons around.

No. 1300. Cigne glacÉ en surprise.

Make a large sponge-cake of forty eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a large oval tin dish-cover (about two hours and a half would be the time required), and the next day cut it with your knife into the form of the body of a swan (leaving a space in the breast down the front for the neck), empty the interior as in the last; ice it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork in imitation of feathers, form the head and neck of pÂte d’office (No. 1137) by rolling out a piece with the hands of sufficient length and proportionate thickness to form the neck, being rather thicker at one end than at the other; cut it in halves lengthwise, placing them upon a buttered baking-sheet, the cut side downwards, model each half head with taste separately, form each piece exactly alike, and of the same size for the neck, being somewhat in the form of the letter S, but finishing quite straight at the bottom, bake them in a moderate oven, and when done join them together with a paste made of flour and white of egg, with which also affix it to the dish you intend serving it upon (previously scraping the bottom of the neck quite flat with a knife), mask it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork, and set in a warm place until dry; an hour before serving pour some gelÉe au maresquin (No. 1227) cold, but not set, into the dish, filling it to the inner rim, and stand it in a cold place until set; when ready to serve empty the interior of the body, which soak with three glasses of maresquino and three of brandy; fill with a vanilla ice (No. 1381), with which you have mixed two ounces of citron, two ounces of angelica, two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, the citron and angelica cut into dice, and all soaked three hours in maresquino and brandy; turn it over on your dish upon the jelly, fixing it neatly to the neck, you have previously made some sucre filÉ (No. 1380), with which form the wings and tail, and fix in their respective places, whip about a quart more of the jelly as above upon ice until upon the point of setting, and with it, when set, form a kind of foam at the breast, diminishing it at the sides by degrees, in imitation of waves caused by the bird swimming.

No. 1301. Jambon glacÉ en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty-four eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a mould of the shape of a ham, or in a baking-dish, having a cake about six inches in thickness, and when cold cutting it with a knife in the shape of a ham, empty the interior as before, mask the exterior with chocolate iceing as near to the colour of real cooked ham as possible, over which sprinkle a few chopped pistachios and crushed ratafias, in imitation of chopped parsley and bread-crumbs; you have reserved a little of the iceing, with which mix some more melted chocolate, making it a very dark brown, it will when cool form a kind of paste, with which form a part of the skin of a ham left upon the knuckle end, cut in points when dry and ready to serve, line the interior with apricot marmalade, soak it a little with brandy, fill it with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn over upon your dish, glaze with a little melted currant jelly, form a star of clear brownish calf’s-foot jelly upon the top, flavoured according to taste, with some chopped and in croutons around, run a skewer in at the knuckle, upon which place a paper frill, and serve.

No. 1302. Gigot de Mouton bouilli glacÉ en surprise.

Make a cake of the same size as the last, but bake it in a smaller compass, that is, more round and smaller at one end than at the other; the next day form it with your knife into the shape of a leg of mutton, mask it over with a white iceing in which you have introduced a very little chocolate, to give it the colour as near as possible of the fat of a leg of mutton when boiled (having previously emptied the interior); form the knuckle-bone of pÂte d’office, and imitate the lean part with some chocolate iceing; when dry and ready to serve, soak the interior with four spoonfuls of preserved greengages, mixed with two glasses of sherry, and fill it with strawberry ice (No. 1388); turn it over upon your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle, surround it with gelÉe mousseuse (No. 1232) in broken pieces, to imitate mashed turnips, and a few apples dressed as for pommes À la Trianon (No. 1280), to imitate whole ones; make also a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of milk (as directed for crÈme au maresquin, omitting the isinglass), to which, when cold and thickish, add an ounce of very green pistachios, blanched and coarsely chopped in imitation of capers, which pour over the cake previous to garnishing.

No. 1303. Selle de Mouton À la JardiniÈre en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake with the same quantity of eggs as in the last, which bake in a long square baking-dish, or form a square in a round one with bands of paper, fixing them in their place with pieces of common paste against the side of the dish; the next day form it with a knife to the shape of a saddle of mutton, trussed as for roasting (as near as possible), ice it as in the last, but rather darker, with chocolate, to imitate a real one when roasted (imitate it from a real one should you have one); you have previously emptied the interior, form the lean parts with darker coloured chocolate iceing, and the flaps by graining it with a knife; when dry and ready to serve fill with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn it over upon your dish, garnish with a custard made as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), but coloured brown with a little melted chocolate, to which add a quantity of fruits, dressed as directed for chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), thus imitating a sauce with vegetables; green currants passed in sugar, and mixed with and served in the custard, make a very good imitation of peas.

Make a sponge-cake of eighteen eggs as directed (No. 1369), which bake in a baking-dish so that the cake shall be about four inches in thickness; when baked and cold cut it in thin slices, lay them upon your table, and spread apricot marmalade upon each alternate slice, then lay those slices without the marmalade upon the others, press gently together and cut them into pieces about three inches in length and one and a half in breadth, of the shape of cotelettes, using a round cutter to form the circle of the cotelette, have ready some thin light chocolate iceing in a basin and some ratafia-crumbs in a dish, mask the cotelettes lightly with the chocolate iceing and throw them into the crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with your knife, put a piece of blanched almond in the end to imitate the bone, and put them upon a baking-sheet in the screen to dry; when ready make a thin border of apricot or any other marmalade on a silver dish, upon which dress the cotelettes in border, garnish round with strawberry jelly, chopped and in croutons, and serve with a vanilla ice dressed very high in the centre.

No. 1305. Haunch of Lamb glacÉ en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty-six eggs, which bake in a very long mould; when cold cut it into the form of a haunch of lamb (or it may be baked in two separate pieces and afterwards joined together with the iceing), empty the interior, which again put into the cake to keep it in shape, mask it over with an iceing of a light gold colour, made by adding a little melted chocolate and cochineal; when dry and ready to serve moisten with some brandy and preserved strawberries, and fill with strawberry or vanilla ice (Nos. 1381, 1388), place a frill upon the knuckle-bone, which you have previously formed of pÂte d’office, glaze it over with apricot marmalade and currant jelly mixed, pour a little melted currant jelly mixed with wine, in imitation of gravy, round and serve.

No. 1306. Shoulder of Lamb glacÉ en surprise

Is very good for a small party; make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twelve eggs, bake it in a flat sautÉ-pan, and when done and cold form it into the shape of a shoulder, empty a little from the interior, fix on the knuckle, which you have formed of pÂte d’office (No. 1137), and mask the whole over with nearly a white iceing to imitate a boiled shoulder of lamb; when dry and ready to serve dish it up with vanilla ice (No. 1381) in the interior, and round in imitation of mashed turnips.

No. 1307. Cotelettes d'Agneau À la RÉforme en surprise aux Champignons.

Make a sponge-cake as directed for cotelettes de mouton en surprise (No. 1304), cut it into pieces of the same shape, but much smaller; mask them over lightly with apricot marmalade, and dip them into ratafia crumbs, it will give them a lighter appearance; form the bone with strips of blanched almonds, and dress them the reverse way on your dish upon a border of marmalade, melt some currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix some syrup of pineapples, put in forty thin strips of pineapples, forty ditto of green angelica, and forty preserved cherries, pour it over the cotelettes, and when set and ready to serve fill the centre with a lemon ice (No. 1385), and garnish with some mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222).

No. 1308. Chapon en surprise glacÉ aux Fruits.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs, bake it in a long roundish mould, or an old tin dish-cover; when done and quite cold form it with your knife into the shape of a roasted capon trussed, with the legs inside; form the pinions of the wings with pÂte d’office, stick them to the sides in their proper position, then mask it over with a light chocolate iceing in which you have introduced a little prepared cochineal, to give it the colour as near as possible of a roast capon; you have previously emptied it, and again filled it to keep it in shape, but when perfectly dry again empty it and line the interior with orange marmalade, soak it with a little wine, fill the interior with an orange cream ice (No. 1386) flavoured with noyeau, turn it over upon a silver dish, garnish round with pears dressed as for poires au riz (No. 1277), mixing their syrup with a little apricot marmalade, and pouring it over them; you have made a croustade of pÂte d’office, in imitation of the one of bread, in the form of a gondoliÈre, upon which place a few strawberries, a peach, and cherries, which place at the head of the dish with silver atelettes of fruit upon it, and serve. To form a good imitation of a capon, you require to have a real one before you, or at least a fowl, if possible.

No. 1309. Petits Poussins en surprise À la Sutherland.

Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), and when finished stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (melted) very gently, bake it in three oval moulds, each about the size of a large chicken; when quite cold cut each one into the shape and size of a spring chicken trussed as for boiling, (having a real one as a model,) empty the interiors, place it in again to keep them in shape, mask them all over with a white iceing (No. 1373) to which you have added a little brown brandy instead of lemon-juice; you have previously formed the claws of pÂte d’office (No. 1137) and baked them, fix them at the sides in their proper positions and place them to dry, you have also made three cakes of GÉnoise paste (No. 1201) of the same size as the above, and when cold cut two of them into the form of Russian tongues, well trussed, and make them with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of real tongues, with the cake cut a croustade in imitation of a bread croustade, mask it with a very light chocolate iceing, and ornament it with small designs of puff paste baked very white, or gum paste, place it at the head of your dish; when ready to serve, fix three silver atelettes of fruits (see Plate) upon the top; again empty the interior of the imitation chickens and fill them with a crÈme plombiÈre (No. 1332), place two of them with their tails towards the croustades, with a fine bunch of black grapes hanging from it, then the two imitation tongues, which glaze over with melted currant jelly, then the other imitation chicken between them, place the remainder of the crÈme plombiÈre round and between, place a fine red strawberry with the stalk on here and there, and serve with a thickish custard in which you have introduced two glasses of noyeau over each.

No. 1310. Dindonneau en surprise À la GondoliÈrs.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty eggs, which bake (in an old tin dish-cover) in a moderate oven; when done turn it out upon a sieve, and when quite cold cut it into the shape of a trussed turkey, (having a real one for a model, which may be used in the first course, these dishes only being appropriated to large dinners,) which mask over with a chocolate iceing to imitate as near as possible the colour of a roasted turkey, having previously emptied the interior, which again place in to keep its shape, form the claws with pÂte d’office (No. 1137), and cover them with a little of the iceing made darker with a little more chocolate, make a nice croustade of GÉnoise paste (No. 1201), the shape of the head of a gondola, which fix at the head of the dish, again empty the cake, soak the interior with brandy and apricot marmalade, fill with an apricot cream half iced, turn over upon your dish, garnish round with a red mousseuse jelly in croutons, and small pears cut in halves and stewed as directed (No. 1145), glaze over with currant jelly melted with a little wine, and serve.

No. 1311. Peacock À la Louis Quatorze.

Make a cake of the same size as in the last, bake the same, and when done and cold cut in the shape of the body of a large bird, mask it over with a pinkish white iceing, rather thick, having previously emptied it; have ready blanched a quarter of a pound of pistachios (very green), make the neck and head of pÂte d’office in two separate halves lengthwise, as directed for the swan, only giving the head the shape of a peacock, bake a light colour, and join them together with a paste made of whites of eggs and flour, fix it upon the dish with the same paste, having formed the bottom so that the body will adhere closely and unperceivedly to it, mask it with the same iceing, cut the pistachios in flat fillets, and stick them into the neck to form feathers, you have previously mixed a quantity of red and green sugar (No. 1376) together, which sprinkle thickly over the body of the bird; when dry, again empty the interior, which moisten with Malaga wine and brandy, fill with strawberry ice (No. 1388), turn over upon your dish, fitting it to the head and neck, form the wings with sucre filÉ (No. 1380), also the tail, fix the skins of some of the cherries upon the tail to imitate feathers. Any one perfect in sugar will form the tail open, which will produce a magnificent effect; have some very light jelly flavoured with gold water, (containing plenty of gold leaves,) chop it into rather small pieces, with which lightly cover the body of the bird; the crown of the head and eyes must be well imitated with sucre filÉ, a small black currant imitating the balls of the eyes, garnish round tastefully with croutons of the above jelly and serve.

No. 1312. Faisans en surprise glacÉ au Chocolat.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twenty eggs, which bake in two separate oval moulds; when cold cut them into the shape of two pheasants trussed as for roasting, empty each one as before, putting the pieces again in to keep them in shape, make the legs and pinions of the wings with pÂte d’office (No. 1137), mask them over with chocolate iceing (No. 1374), imitating as near as possible the colour of roasted pheasants, making the legs darker than the body, imitate larding upon the breast with some blanched sweet almonds cut into thin strips of about equal sizes; when dry and ready to serve line the interiors with currant jelly, and fill with a crÈme glacÉe au chocolat (No. 1383), or au cafÉ Moka (No. 1382), turn them over upon your dish and garnish with some jelly (No. 1225), chopped and in croutons round; white strawberries and pieces of apples prepared as for the chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), and soaked in brandy, may be served with the ice in the interior.

No. 1313. Maniveau de Champignons glacÉ en surprise.

Make a basket of pÂte d’office (No. 1137), which is done by rolling out a piece of the paste to three quarters of an inch in thickness, with length and breadth corresponding to the size of your dish, place it in a baking-sheet, put it in a moderate oven, and when about half baked cut an odd number of holes all round near to the edge with a long vegetable cutter a quarter of an inch in diameter, then form a number of pegs of the same paste to fit into the holes when baked, and all of equal lengths, roll out a number of cords of the same paste as long as possible and the thickness of blanched macaroni, which plait round the pegs, going in and out one upon the other until you have reached the top and formed a rustic basket, let it stand some time to get dry, then bake it in a moderate oven; when done and cold glaze it over with some red currant jelly, dress a pineapple ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, which cover all over with mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222), building them in clusters as high as possible; garnish round with a gelÉe au rhum (No. 1231) chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1314. Turban de CondÉ glacÉ À l’Ananas.

Make a pound of puff paste into condÉ as directed (No. 1183), make a thin border of any kind of marmalade upon a silver dish, on which dress the condÉ in turban, that is, standing upon end, one resting upon the other, dress a pineapple cream ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, garnish round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237); cut in quarters and serve.

No. 1315. Bombe demi glacÉ À la Mogador.

Make a good vanilla ice as directed (No. 1381), well flavoured with maresquino, have a large round pewter ice-mould which opens in two halves, partly fill each half, leaving a hollow in the centre of each, which fill with all kinds of small fruits, grapes, strawberries, currants, Smyrna raisins, &c., soaked in maresquino, close the mould, (having it sufficiently filled to form a ball when turned out,) and bury it in ice and salt, then make a thin ornamented border of pÂte d’office (No. 1137) an inch in height, which fix upon a silver dish and bake in a moderate oven, place it somewhere for the dish to get cold; when ready to serve, dip the mould into lukewarm water, and turn the ice quickly out in the centre of your dish, you have previously prepared some finely-spun sugar (sucre filÉ, No. 1380), with which form a fusee, stick it in the top of the ice, twisting it round, bringing the other end near the edge of the dish, pour half a pint of brandy in your dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire at the moment of going to table; the fire will require to burn the sugar, which will give it quite the appearance of a fusee; it would, however, be better that the brandy should not be set on fire until it reached the dining-room.

No. 1316. CÉrito’s Sultane Sylphe À la Fille de l’Orage.

Procure a half oval-pointed mould about fifteen inches in height, ten inches by eight in diameter at the bottom, and the size of a five-shilling piece at the top, which bury to the rim in ice with which you have mixed plenty of salt, hue the interior with a sheet of white paper, laying it in closely to fit the mould, have ready a pint of cream mixed rather stiffly, with which you have mixed a meringue mixture of three eggs, as for the biscuit glacÉ (No. 1318), spread it all over the interior of the mould to about an inch in thickness, place a cover over the mould made to fit tight, over which place some ice, and leave it one hour, when it will be quite frozen, take off the lid, have ready a nice cherry or strawberry cream ice (No. 1388), place a little at the bottom of the mould, upon which lay a few fresh strawberries, then more ice, proceeding thus until quite full, place the cover again over, fixing it tight, bury it in ice and salt, and leave it an hour, or till wanted, when dip it into very lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, take off the paper, have ready a silver atelette (see atelette of fruits in the Plate), upon which you have placed some fine fresh fruit, that is, a peach with a bunch of fine black grapes resting over, and a few red currants or strawberries beneath, which stick into the top, have ready some finely-spun sugar (sucre filÉ, No. 1380), which twine round lightly like rolls of gauze (see design), not, however, covering the whole of it, and at the moment of serving lay a fine bunch of black grapes upon each side on vine-leaves; have some very light gelÉe de Dantzic (No. 1226) chopped finely, with which garnish round, sprinkling some over the grapes, but not too heavy, and serve as quickly as possible. As soon as it is turned out of the mould you had better set the dish upon the ice and salt you took it from (pouring off all the water) whilst ornamenting, and it would be better to make a border of pÂte d’office upon your dish as in the last, but smaller, to prevent it sliding about when carried to table, which would upset the garniture.

No. 1317. Gateau glacÉ À l’Eloise.

Bury a mould in ice as in the last, then whip a quart of double cream very stiff, to which add a very little powdered sugar and two glasses of noyeau, put it in a freezing-pot, and when about three parts frozen line the mould as in the last, make a custard with eight yolks of eggs as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), to which add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372), stir it upon the ice, and when becoming thickish add two glasses of noyeau, half a pint of whipped cream, and half a pound of cherries, stoned, and passed in sugar as directed (No. 1144), only dry well before adding them to the custard, which must be kept as white as possible, place it in the centre of your mould, which cover up and bury in ice until wanted; when ready, dip the mould in lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, stick a few fine cherries here and there over it, prepare another custard of four yolks of eggs, which pour all over and serve. The garnishing of these dishes must be effected very quickly, as they require to be served the moment they are turned out.

No. 1318. Biscuit Mousseux glacÉ, en caisse.

Make a custard of six yolks of eggs as directed for crÈme au maresquin (No. 1251), but omitting three parts of the sugar; put into your freezing-pot, and when half frozen have ready the following preparation: boil a quarter of a pound of sugar au cassÉ (No. 1379), have ready five whites of eggs whipped very stiff, with which mix the sugar by degrees; when quite cold mix with the custard, adding half a pint of whipped cream and three glasses of any white liqueur, freeze the whole together, keeping the pot twisted until you have obtained a good consistency; have ready a number of small round paper cases,[17] place a band of paper round each, half an inch above the top, and fill with the above preparation; place them in a flat tin box, sprinkle ratafia crumbs upon the top of each, place the lid upon the box, which must close very tight, and bury it in ice and salt for six hours; when ready to serve, take them out of the box, detach the bands of paper from them, dress upon a napkin, and serve. They will have every appearance of having just left the oven.

No. 1319. Souffle glacÉ au CuraÇoa.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using curaÇoa instead of a white liqueur; place it in a middling-sized silver soufflÉ-dish, surround it with a band of paper, sprinkle crushed ratafias over the top, place it in the box, which cover and bury in ice, and salt eight hours; when ready to serve take off the band of paper, and dress it upon a napkin on a silver dish.

No. 1320. Pouding SoufflÉ glacÉ À la MÉphistopheles.

Proceed precisely as in the last, place in a dish of the same description, and whilst buried in ice make a cover from a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of four yolks of eggs, very firm, a large spoonful of which place upon a sheet of paper, forming it round, three inches in diameter, and the remainder in a paper cornet or horn, cut off the point of one, leaving a point the size of a sixpenny-piece, with which work a spiral line round the meringue until you have formed a cover large enough for the soufflÉ-case, sift sugar over it, and bake in a very slow oven; when done turn it gently over in your hand, take off the paper, empty the interior lightly, and place it to dry in a very slow oven (it might be made the day before); make a border of pÂte d’office upon a silver dish as for the bombe glacÉ (No. 1315), bake in a warm oven; when ready to serve take the soufflÉ from the ice, take off the paper, stand it in a dish of ice and salt to reach the rim of the soufflÉ-case; place on the cover, which must be quite cold and crisp, and place it in the oven until the meringue cover is warm, when take it out, stand it in the centre of your dish, pour half a pint of brandy upon the dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire upon its going into the dining-room.

No. 1321. Brioche.

Put four pounds of flour upon a marble slab, one pound of which place upon one side, with an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a gill of warm water in the centre, mix the yeast well with your fingers, add a little more water, and mix the flour into a stiffish but delicate paste, which roll up in the shape of a ball, cut an incision across it with a knife, place it in a basin well floured and put it into a warmish place for ten minutes or longer, until becoming very light, make a large hole in the centre of the remainder of the flour, in which put half an ounce of salt, half a gill of water, two pounds and a half of fresh butter, and sixteen eggs, mix the eggs and butter well together, and work in the flour by degrees, if too stiff add more eggs, the paste must be kept rather softish, press it out with, your hands by degrees, lay the leaven upon it, which spread over, bring the ends over with your knife, press it out again and fold over until well mixed, sprinkle some flour upon a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night; when ready to use throw some flour upon your pastry slab, turn your paste out upon it and work it up together with your hands, then cut a piece, which mould into a ball with the hands, place it upon a piece of buttered paper on a baking-sheet, make an impression with your hand in the centre, mould another ball of the paste two thirds the size of the former, wet the former ball with a little water, fix the other upon it, press gently, egg over with a paste-brush, make a few incisions round with a knife, and put it in a moderate oven, (it will require about two hours baking, to try when done run a thin wooden skewer into it, if done it will come out perfectly dry,) bake of a nice gold colour. Many small cakes, rissoles, &c., are made from this paste. By buttering a middle-sized stewpan, putting a band of paper four inches in height round, and baking the paste in it, it will of itself make a remove, but of course requiring longer baking.

No. 1322. Baba.

This cake is made of the same description of paste as the last, but using six more eggs, as it requires to be softer, and working lightly with your hand about ten minutes before adding the leaven, to which add a teaspoonful of powdered saffron; you have also picked and cleaned a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of Malaga, a quarter of a pound of currants, and a little candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron, cut into thin slices, soak the whole in half a pint of Madeira wine and three glasses of brandy or rum, and mix with the paste, working together lightly with the hands, have buttered a large sponge-cake mould, or stewpan, place a band of paper three inches in height round the rim, put it into a warm place for two or three hours, or until raised nearly to the top of the mould, stand it upon a trivet in a warmish oven, and bake about three hours, ascertaining when done with a skewer, as in the last; your paste must not be made too thin, or all the fruit would fall to the bottom and spoil its appearance. Take off the band of paper, turn the baba over upon a hair sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Previously to mixing the fruit with the paste you may line the interior of the mould very thinly with some of it, mix the fruit with the remainder and fill, this process will prevent the cake sticking to the mould, as the fruit will sometimes cause it to do, but gives rather too much the appearance of brioche when on the table.

No. 1323. Brioche au Fromage.

Make the paste as directed (No. 1321), but rather softer, and when ready for use mix in a pound of GruyÈre cheese cut into small dice, with half a pound of grated Parmesan and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, mould it as for the brioche, put it into a buttered stewpan as there directed, egg lightly, place in a moderate oven, and bake it about two hours of a fine gold colour, (but try whether done or not as before,) and serve very hot. The same paste with cheese may likewise be served in small cakes, making fifteen or sixteen from the same quantity of paste, or cutting up a large one with different shape-cutters into the same number of pieces, and placing them in a hot oven upon a baking-sheet (when the first course comes off the table) until very hot and becoming rather brown, dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and send very hot to table, with another napkin over them, which should not be removed until placed upon the table.

No. 1324. Brioche frite au Vin de MadÈre.

Make a brioche as directed (No. 1321), which when cold cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in thickness, and of the shape and size of small fillets of fowl, have ready four yolks of eggs in a dish, with which you have mixed a gill of good cream, have also clarified half a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of which put into a deep sautÉ-pan over the fire; when hot dip eight pieces of the brioche into the eggs and cream quickly, and fry them in the sautÉ-pan of a light yellow colour, proceeding thus until they are all done, dress them in crown upon your dish on a border of apricot marmalade, and place it in the oven to keep hot, put half a pound of the marmalade in a stewpan, and when melted add a pint of Madeira wine; when boiling pour over the brioche and serve very hot. The remainder of a brioche or baba from a preceding dinner may be used for the above purpose. In serving a brioche or baba to table as a remove I strongly recommend the above method, as very few, even after a sumptuous dinner, could resist the temptations of this delicious dish, so well blended with the apricot and Madeira, whilst brioche or baba served entire cannot invigorate the appetite, and is not, in my opinion, exactly the kind of food to suit an already nearly satisfied stomach. They are, however, excellent for breakfasts, luncheons, and ball suppers, where every person composes their meal according to their fancy.

No. 1325. Nougat aux Fraises.

Blanch three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds in boiling water, and a quarter of a pound of pistachios, separate, take off the skins and cut each almond into five or six fillets, and the pistachios in two, place them upon a sheet of paper and dry in a warm oven until the almonds become a light straw colour, but taking the pistachios out earlier, then put a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon until melted, then throw in your almonds, (which must be hot,) and stir until well mixed, taking it off the fire, you have previously slightly oiled a large Savoy-cake mould, put in part of the mixture, which press to the sides with a lemon, then the remainder in small pieces, pressing the whole to the sides, forming it into one piece the thickness of a five-shilling piece, and when cold turn it out from the shape upon a dish, whip a quart of cream very stiff, which dress upon the dish you intend serving the nougat on, in pyramid, place some very fine strawberries upon it and the nougat over, have a little sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), have also a few very fine strawberries, with the stalks on, as the green is an improvement, dip the stalks of the strawberries into the sugar, place one upon the top and the others all over, at the distance of two inches apart, fixing them in a drooping position, it is then ready to serve. The above makes a handsome remove, the pistachios, almonds, and strawberries correcting the taste of the melted sugar; if not convenient, the pistachios may be omitted, but adding more almonds in proportion. The sugar may be flavoured with lemon vanilla or candied orange-flowers.

No. 1326. Croque en bouche.

Make some paste as directed for pÂte À choux (No. 1194), not, however, using so much butter, and adding a little more flour, drying it well in the stewpan, and adding sufficient eggs to make it of the same consistency as there directed, flavouring with sugar upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, form about a hundred and fifty small balls the size of marbles, upon two baking-sheets, egg them over and bake very dry in a moderate oven of a light gold colour, then have some sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), oil a large Savoy-cake mould lightly, place one of the petits choux upon a trussing-needle, dip it in the sugar, fix it at the bottom in the centre of your mould, then dip in the remainder one after the other, placing them round the interior of the mould, one adhering to the other until the mould is filled up, (to facilitate the building of them have your sugar in two different sugar-pans, being careful that it does not grain, for if the sugar is not quite clear and crisp it would stick to the mould, and your croque en bouche tumble to pieces,) when quite cold try gently with both hands to move it, just enough to detach it, turn it out carefully upon a napkin, and serve with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar under it. The above when well made makes a pretty remove, but scarcely fit to eat, it being a mass of sugar without any relief to the palate. Although not a great admirer of nougat, the almonds certainly form a relief; a croque en bouche of oranges or any other fruit is a little more commendable, but is very difficult to succeed with, and do not in reality repay in quality the trouble they give; such dishes, in my opinion, being fit only for children who are fond of sugar-plums.

No. 1327. Meringue Pagodatique À la Chinoise.

Have ready prepared a meringue mixture of fifteen eggs (No. 1218), with which make six rings upon paper, (laying them out with a paper cornet or funnel, in the bottom of which you have cut a hole of the circumference of a shilling,) the three largest to be eight inches in diameter, the next one six and a half inches, the next five, and the smallest three and a half inches in diameter, and the whole of them an inch in thickness, have some of the preparation in a small paper cornet with a hole at the bottom of the size of a pea, with which ornament the rings, laying small fillets of it over them, then with the large paper cornet lay out four other pieces of an octagonal form, (to imitate the top of a Chinese pagoda, which may easily be accomplished if the mixture is firm, as it may then be laid out into any shape desired,) leaving a ring in the centre, making the largest rather larger than the largest ring, diminishing the size in proportion to the other rings, and piping them according to fancy with the smaller paper cornet with which also form sixteen little bells by pressing an upright dot from it upon paper, and pulling the cornet up quickly, making the four largest half an inch in height and a quarter of an inch in width, and making each four a size smaller in proportion; bake the whole of the preparations (first sifting sugar over them) upon boards in a very slow oven, scarcely allowing them to obtain any colour; when baked and crisp place them in a hot closet until perfectly dry, when take them out, wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush and carefully detach the meringues from them, which again put into the hot closet until quite crisp, then fix the bells, the largest upon the largest octagonal piece at the corners, and the smaller upon the smaller pieces, by running a needle with a piece of white silk through them, and fastening them with a little boiled sugar or isinglass when upon the point of setting; when ready to serve place the three largest rings upon your dish, filling the middle with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377), then the largest octagonal piece, which also fill with cream, then the next sized ring, and so on until you have built the whole up, finishing with the smallest octagonal at the top, you have also made and baked a pointed meringue of the shape of half a lemon, to fit into the hole at the top, having it decorated to correspond, which place upon the top and serve immediately, or it would become damp, and eat toughish instead of crisp.

No. 1328. Meringue À la Parisienne.

Prepare a meringue mixture of ten whites of eggs, with which make ten large rings, each about eight inches in diameter, and half an inch in thickness, laying them out upon paper; pipe them in stripes with the paper cornet, and sift sugar over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, lay them upon boards, and place them in a slow oven to bake; when of a light brown colour and quite set, put them into a hot closet to dry, then wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush, from which carefully detach the rings, place them again in the hot closet to dry, and when ready to serve pipe them with bright red currant jelly between the stripes of meringue, dish them one upon the other, filling them with whipped cream, and serve as quickly as possible afterwards, with a few strawberries upon the top. A meringue mixture may also be formed into various other shapes, according to fancy.

No. 1329. Nesselrode Pudding.

Blanch four dozen chestnuts in boiling water, skin and place them in the screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and sift it through a fine wire sieve, put it into a stewpan with the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well, and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon, when lay a tammie upon a large dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 1381), when frozen have a large high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of maresquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut in dice, put them into the freezing-pot with a pint of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation directed in (No. 1318); freeze the whole well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve, when dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1330. Pouding de Cabinet glacÉ.

Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No. 1369), which cut into slices half an inch in thickness, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding in, soak them well with noyeau brandy, then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus until the mould is three parts full; then have ready a quart of the custard, as prepared for crÈme au maresquin (No. 1251), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm into your mould, which close hermetically and bury in ice and salt, where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.

No. 1331. Glace Meringue au four.

Make a pineapple cream ice as directed (No. 1384), and when well frozen have ready a plain oval ice-mould, place the cream in it, filling it quite tight, close and bury it in ice and salt until five minutes before ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish, which bury up to the rim in ice and salt upon a baking-sheet, have ready a preparation of meringue as directed for petits biscuits glacÉs, (No. 1318), with which cover it over, place it in a warm oven a minute, just setting the meringue, which will blister and brown slightly, and serve immediately.

No. 1332. PlombiÈre.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold place them in a mortar with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan with the yolks of nine eggs, beat them well together, then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees, keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie, add two glasses of noyeau; when cold put it into your freezing-pot to freeze (see No. 1381), and when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite frozen fill a mould, and serve as for the Nesselrode pudding.

No. 1333. PlombiÈres Mousseuses À l’Orange.

Prepare about three parts of the quantity of plombiÈre ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly (No. 1236) just upon the point of setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until well frozen; have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent (No. 1147), and place them in a basin upon ice; when ready to serve make a border of patisserie d’amande (No. 1183) upon your dish, in the centre of which put a little of the plombiÈre, then a layer of oranges, then plombiÈre and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing in pyramid; garnish round with a little of the orange jelly (clear), chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1334. Gateaux de Fruit À la GelÉe d’Orange mousseuse.

Make a chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. 1269) in a large oval mould, having a quantity of fruit left; have also about a quart of orange jelly (No. 1236), which place upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until upon the point of setting, when place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and ready to serve dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; serve garnished round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237), cut in quarters after it has set.

No. 1335. Gateau SoufflÉ À l’Essence de Ponche.

Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs, made as for crÈme au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added two glasses of essence of punch, pour round the gateau and serve.

The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.