Although it is against my principle to have any unnecessary ornamental work in a dinner, I am rather partial to these croustades, they being simple and very elegant. It would be quite useless my attempting to explain by receipts the manner in which they are made, as so much depends upon the taste and skill of the artist. Having invented several new removes requiring croustades of different designs, I have had them engraved, and think I may say that the whole of the designs there represented are quite original. These croustades are cut out of one or two loaves of bread; when cut in separate pieces they are joined by running a silver skewer (or attelet) through them; the body of the croustades is fried in lard, of a nice straw-colour, and the small ornaments attached are cut with cutters and fried in oil, some must be kept quite white and others allowed to get very black; they are fixed to the body of the croustade with a stiffish paste made of whites of eggs and flour; my reason for departing from the old-fashioned custom of placing them in the centre of a dish and putting them at the head, is that it facilitates the carving, and you are not so subject to get pieces of it in your plate with the sauce, besides which I think it has a more novel appearance, and makes the dish more elegant.

No. 417. To obtain, lard, and dress a filet of Beef.

A fillet of beef can only be procured in this country by purchasing a rump and sirloin together, (in France it is sold as a separate joint,) but the rump and sirloin can be used for other dishes, or for the servants’ meals, and in families where they kill their own meat, it is of no consequence. To cut out the fillet lay the rump and sirloin upon the table, the inside uppermost, then pass your knife along close to the chine bone, keeping the knife close to the bone until you get past the fillet, then commence cutting upwards through the fat, which trim from the fillet, except a little at the sides, then with a sharp knife take all the skin from the top of the fillet, beat it lightly, and lard it nicely lengthwise with small lardons of fat bacon, two inches in length, and the thickness of a quill; have prepared and cut in slices six onions, two carrots, two turnips, one head of celery, one leek, a handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, and six bay-leaves, moisten with a teacupful of salad oil, lay your fillet on a large dish and cover with the vegetables, let it remain thus all night; to cook it run a lark spit through the length of the fillet, lay all the vegetables upon four sheets of paper, (or more, for if not sufficient paper it will burst and the vegetables fall in the dripping-pan,) lay the fillet upon them, cover and tie it up surrounded with the vegetables; baste it well when you first put it to the fire, to prevent the paper from burning, roast an hour and a half or a little longer before a good fire; when done, take it from the vegetables, glaze the larded part, brown lightly with the salamander, and it is ready to be sauced and served. It may also be roasted without the vegetables, but then an hour would suffice.

No. 418. Fillet of Beef À la Joan d’Arc.

Prepare and cook the fillet as described, then cut a croustade in the form of a breast-plate (see plate), fix it at the head of the dish upon paste, then lay your fillet in the middle of a dish, make a small border of mashed potatoes round, upon which alternately place a small quenelle (No. 120) and a small fillet of tongue, to match; proceed in like manner all the way round, then have ready nicely boiled twenty heads of fine asparagus, cut half of them five inches in length, and the remainder three inches, dress them inside of the croustade on the top to represent arrows, pour a jus d’eschalotte sauce (No. 16) over the fillet, glaze the quenelles and tongue, and serve very hot.

No. 419. Fillet of Beef À la Beyrout.

Prepare and dress the fillet as before, then cut a croustade of bread representing the wall of a citadel, form the cannons with stewed carrots, and the balls with truffles, place it on mashed potatoes at the head of the dish, lay the fillet in the centre, make a border of mashed potatoes round, rather high, close to the croustade on each side, but diminishing as you go from it; have ready twenty crawfish, place them on the potatoes, tails upwards, pour a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) round the fillet; glaze and serve.

I must here observe that as crawfish are frequently served to garnish calf’s head, I see no impropriety in using them to garnish beef.

No. 420. Fillet of Beef au jus d’Orange.

Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), dish it up plain and serve with jus d’orange sauce (No. 17) over it.

No. 421. Fillet of Beef au jus de Tomate.

Prepare and dress the fillet as described above, dish it up plain, pour the sauce au jus de tomate (No. 12) round it; glaze and serve very hot.

No. 422. Fillet of Beef Napolitaine.

Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), place it in the centre of the dish, have ready two croustades, the shape and size of scallop shells, fix one at each end of the fillet on mashed potatoes, and fill them with fresh scraped horseradish, then have ready the following sauce: make a mierpoix of two onions, two turnips, one carrot, one apple, a quarter of a pound of lean ham (cut in thin slices), half a clove of garlic, one bay-leaf, and three tablespoonfuls of salad oil; pass the whole twenty minutes over a slow fire (in a stewpan), then add four tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, boil it five minutes, add a pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommÉ (No. 134); reduce it to half, skim off all the oil, then add six tablespoonfuls of very red tomate sauce, one ditto of orange marmalade, and two of currant jelly, let it boil a few minutes longer, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season rather high, have ready a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins (well soaked in water for one hour), and twelve of the best quality French plums cut in quarters lengthwise, throw them into the sauce, make it hot, pour round the beef, which glaze very nicely and serve.

No. 423. Fillet of Beef À la Strasbourgienne.

Prepare and dress your fillets as directed, adding four glasses of sherry to the vegetables you roast it in; prepare two croustades the size and shape of scallop shells, dress your beef in the middle of the dish, placing a croustade (on mashed potatoes) at each end; have ready previously boiled two pounds of Strasburg bacon (which, from its dry nature requires soaking two days and boiling four hours), cut it in slices two inches long, and have an equal number of sliced of fried potatoes to match, make a border of mashed potatoes round the beef, and dress the slices of bacon and fried potatoes alternately upon it, have ready prepared the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with three of Tarragon vinegar, let it reduce to half, then add a pint and a half of brown sauce, two spoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), and half a tablespoonful of sugar, let it boil quickly twenty minutes, skim well, and reduce until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then have ready a lemon, peeled, sliced, blanched in boiling water, and drained on a hair sieve, which throw in the sauce, pour it round the beef, fill one of the croustades with stoned French olives, and the other with Indian pickle made hot in a little demi-glace (No. 9); serve immediately.

No. 424. Fillet of Beef À la Napolitaine.

Prepare and dress the fillet as directed (No. 417), dress it plain on a dish and have ready prepared the following sauce: cut in thin slices two onions, half a carrot, one turnip, half a head of celery, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, three cloves, one blade of mace, and a quarter of a pound of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir it over a brisk fire till getting rather brown at the bottom, then add four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, let it reduce to half, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1) and a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), stir it until boiling, then place it at the corner of the stove to simmer a quarter of an hour, skim it, then add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little grated horseradish, and three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly; boil it quickly five minutes, and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins well washed and soaked, pour the sauce over the beef, garnish with scraped horseradish and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters lengthwise and laid near the rim of the dish.

No. 425. Fillet of Beef À la Milanaise.

Prepare and lard the fillet as before, then make a stiffish paste of flour and water, roll it about half an inch in thickness and fold the fillet in it, fold it again in three sheets of paper, tie it up at both ends, run a lark spit through it, and just as you are going to put it down to roast open the paste, pour in three glasses of Madeira wine, close the paste well, tie it up securely, roast it two hours, take it up and remove from the paste, glaze it, brown lightly with the salamander, dish it plain, and have ready the following sauce: cut half a pound of blanched maccaroni into pieces an inch long, likewise two ounces of very red cooked tongue, six large blanched mushrooms, and four middling-sized French truffles, put twenty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, stir it over the fire five minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne, and a little sugar, add all the other ingredients, with half a pound of grated Parmesan, stir the whole over the fire to get hot, but do not break the pieces; moisten with a little cream, pour the sauce in the dish, lay the fillet upon it, glaze and serve.

No. 426. Fillet of Beef À la BohÉmienne.

Trim and lard a fillet as directed, cut in thin slices six onions, two carrots, three turnips, three heads of celery, and a leek; put them into a dish large enough to hold the fillet, then put a quart of vinegar into a stewpan, with a pint of broth; when it boils put in a few peppercorns, nine cloves, two blades of mace, four bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and sweet marjoram, a small bunch of parsley, half a pound of brown sugar, and a little salt, let it boil twenty minutes and pour it over the vegetables; when it gets cold lay in the fillet of beef, covering it over with the vegetables, let it remain in this pickle six days, turning it every day; when ready to cook roast it in paste as in the previous article, brown it with the salamander, serve it in the middle of the dish, make a low border of mashed potatoes round it, have ready potatoes fried (and cut in slices in the shape of cotelettes) dish them upon the border of mashed potatoes round the beef, have ready the following sauce: put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, when it boils add twenty French olives (stoned), twenty small pickled onions, and twenty pickled mushrooms; pour the sauce round the beef but not over the potatoes; an ounce of anchovy butter may be added to the sauce if approved of. You can also braise the fillet in a baking dish in the oven with the marinade it is pickled in.

No. 427. Fillet of Beef À la Romaine.

Trim your fillet and lard it through the thick part with large pieces of cooked tongue and fat bacon, twelve pieces of each, tie it up with a piece of string, put half a pound of butter in a large stewpan, and lay in the beef with a pound of bacon cut in slices, two onions, two bayleaves, two cloves, and ten peppercorns; place it on a sharp fire, when getting a little brown and forming a glaze, put in six glasses of sherry and a pint of consommÉ, (No. 134), set it over a very slow fire for two hours, moving it round with a wooden spoon occasionally; have ready blanched one pound of the best small maccaroni (No. 136); put it in a stewpan, after it is well drained from the water take up the beef, skim the fat off the gravy it is cooked with, and pass it through a sieve upon the maccaroni, add six tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, and place it over the fire; when it simmers add half a pound of grated Parmesan and half a pound of grated Gruyer cheese, move it round quickly, (it must not be too liquid, so if too much gravy from the beef reserve some of it;) season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar, put a layer of maccaroni upon your dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then the remainder of the maccaroni, egg and bread-crumb the top, sprinkle more grated cheese over, brown it with the salamander, lay the fillet on the top, glaze, and serve very hot. Should any gravy remain pour it round.

No. 428. Stewed rump of Beef À la Flamande.

Choose a rump of beef from twenty-five to thirty pounds, in weight, the meat dark and well covered with fat, bone and lard it slantwise through and through with very large lardons of fat bacon six inches long, chop up the bone, which put into a large stewpan, with five or six pounds of the trimmings of any other meat, one pound of lean ham, three onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, eight peppercorns, and a blade of mace: put a pint of water in the stewpan, cover and stand it over a brisk fire, stirring it occasionally till the bottom is covered with glaze, then lay in the beef, fill the stewpan with water, skim when boiling, and let it simmer on the corner of the fire for six hours; to try when it is done run a trussing-needle into it, if it goes in easy it is done; have ready prepared eighteen middling-sized onions, butter a sautÉ-pan, put half an ounce of powdered sugar in it, cut a piece of the top and bottom of each onion, blanch them in boiling water ten minutes, drain well, stand them in the sautÉ-pan, cover with stock, place them over the fire, stew till tender and the stock has become a thin glaze, have ready eighteen pieces of carrots, and eighteen turnips cut in the form of small pears, which dress in the same way as the onions, lay the rump of beef on your dish, and arrange the onions and vegetables with taste around it, using for variety any green vegetables that may happen to be in season with them; for the sauce put a quart of brown sauce in a stewpan, with the glaze from the onions and vegetables, and half a pint of good stock; season with a little pepper and salt if required, reduce a quarter of an hour, or till it becomes rather thick, pour the sauce over the vegetables, glaze the top of the beef, brown it lightly in the oven, or with the salamander, and serve. To carve, cut it in thin slices slantingly through the thickest end, where there is most fat; if underdone it is uneatable.

No. 429. Stewed Rump of Beef aux Oignons glacÉs.

Stew the beef as directed in the last, likewise thirty-six onions, stewed in the same way as there directed; make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the beef in the centre, and dress the onions round upon the potato; place a fine Brussels sprout on the top of each onion (or a little sprue grass or green peas if in season), then put a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of tomata sauce and the glaze the onions were cooked in; boil well five minutes, keeping it stirred and well skimmed, pour over the onions, glaze the beef, brown it with the salamander, and serve. You may put a very white cauliflower at each end of the dish, if you have any. In making the border of mashed potatoes on your dish, be sure and leave sufficient room for the beef, as you can (and it is the best way) dress the onions and garniture on it first, and not place the beef on till ready to serve; for the fat running from the beef it would spoil the appearance of the sauce if it remained long on the dish before serving.

No. 430. Stewed Rump of Beef À la Voltaire.

Dress the beef as before, then blanch two white winter cabbages (savoys) in salt and water ten minutes; take them out, and lay them on a sieve to drain; then make a mierpoix of two onions, half a carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, one leek, a little parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, and half a pound of lean ham, all cut up very small; put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry five minutes, keeping them stirred; then squeeze the cabbage quite dry, lay it in the stewpan with the vegetables and a quart of veal stock, place it over a slow fire to stew for one hour, or till quite tender, take out the cabbage (save the stock), lay it on a cloth, turn the end of the cloth over it, squeeze it rather dry, and make a long roll of it (about the size round of half-a-crown piece), cut it in pieces about an inch in length, and dress them on the dish round the beef; a small onion dressed as before may be placed on the top of each piece with a nice Brussels sprout between; and surround the whole with small fried sausages; for sauce, skim off the fat from the broth the cabbage was stewed in; put half a pint of it in a stewpan, with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), place it on the fire, and reduce it to one-half; add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour the sauce over the cabbage, glaze and salamander the beef, and serve; this remove is very good, and a similar dish is reputed to have been a great favourite of the celebrated man from whom I have named it.

No. 431. Stewed Rump of Beef À la Portugaise.

Stew the beef as before, peel eight Portugal onions, boil them in a gallon of water till nearly tender, take them out and drain them; butter a convenient sized stewpan, put in the onions with two ounces of sugar, just cover them with good veal stock, and stew them until the stock is reduced to a thinnish glaze, and adheres to them; place the beef on the dish, and dress the onions round it at equal distances apart, and between each onion place a small but nice white cauliflower; for the sauce, add a quart of brown sauce, with the glaze from the onions; reduce it to half over the fire, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, let it boil, throw in forty French olives ready stoned, pour the sauce over the vegetable, glaze the beef, salamander, and serve.

No. 432. Stewed Rump of Beef À la Joan d’Arc.

Stew the beef as before, and proceed the same as for Fillet of beef À la Joan d’Arc (No. 418).

No. 433. Stewed Rump of Beef À la Beyrout.

Stew the beef as before, and proceed as for Filet de boeuf À la Beyrout (No. 419).

No. 434. Stewed Rump of Beef À la MacÉdoine de lÉgumes.

Stew the rump as before, then peel forty young carrots, the same number of young turnips; tie up ten small bunches of green spring onions, butter a sautÉ-pan, place them in it with a tablespoonful of sugar (leave the stalks of the onions about an inch and a half in length), half cover them with some good stock, and let them simmer until quite tender; cook the turnips and carrots in the same manner, but separate, make a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, leaving room for the beef in the centre; dress the carrots, onions, and turnips on the potatoes tastefully, and variegate them with peas, cauliflowers, asparagus, French beans, and stewed cucumbers (No. 1064); glaze and salamander the beef on a separate dish, place it in the middle of the vegetables, and have ready the following sauce: put a quart of brown sauce in a stewpan, with the stocks the vegetables were cooked in, reduce until it becomes thickish, pour over the vegetables, and serve.

No. 435. Stewed Rump of Beef sauce piquante.

Prepare and stew the rump of beef as before, and prepare the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with six do. of common vinegar, and half an ounce of glaze; let it reduce to half, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommÉe (No. 134); let it simmer half an hour, skim, and season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, sugar, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, one do. of chopped gherkins, and one do. of sliced gherkins; glaze and salamander the beef, pour the sauce round, and serve.

No. 436. Stewed Rump of Beef sauce tomate.

Prepare and stew the beef as before, glaze and salamander, pour some tomata sauce (No. 37) round, and serve. If you should have part of a rump of beef left from a previous dinner you can cut it in slices a quarter of an inch thick, and warm them in a little consommÉe in a sautÉ-pan; serve with any of the foregoing sauces, but especially the two last; the best way to warm them is to glaze them well and put them in a moderate oven about twenty minutes; do not let them boil, or they would eat very hard.

No. 437. Stewed Sirloin of Beef.

The sirloin, after having been deprived of its fillet, is of no use for roasting, but is equally as good as the rump when stewed; bone it carefully and lard the thick part with fat bacon, like the rump; roll it up, and tie it well with string, to keep its shape; stew it in the same manner as the rump, trim it at each end, wipe off the greasy fat lightly from the top with a clean cloth, glaze it lightly, and put it in the oven until it has obtained a light gold colour; serve with any of the sauces or garnitures used for stewed rumps of beef.

No. 438. Stewed Sirloin of Beef À la PrintaniÈre.

Prepare and stew a sirloin as described, glaze and salamander it, place a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, and at each end put a croustade of bread cut in the shape of flat vases; then have ready boiled and cut three inches in length, fifty fine heads of asparagus; dish them in, crown upon the potatoes; then have a quart of very young peas, nicely boiled; put them into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and four pats of butter; toss them over the fire till the butter is melted; put them in the croustade at each end of the dish, place the beef in the centre, pour a sauce aux concombres (No. 103) round the beef and serve. (For the sauce aux concombres, see No. 103).

No. 439. Ribs of Beef À la Jean Bart.

Take four ribs of beef, and saw the rib bones asunder in the middle; pass your knife under, and detach them from the flap; then take the chine bones from the fleshy part, sawing them off the ribs so as to leave but about four inches of the flat rib bones underneath; then lard the thick part through and through with fat bacon like the sirloin, fold the flap over so as to form a nice square piece, tie it with string to keep its shape, and roast three hours in vegetables, in the same manner as described for fillet of beef; when done, take off the string, glaze and salamander, place it on your dish, with a square croustade of bread, with a cannon and anchor also cut from bread upon it, at the head of the dish, and have ready the following sauce: chop very fine ten eschalots, ten fresh mushrooms, and half a pound of lean ham, put them into a stewpan with four glasses of sherry and two of Chili vinegar, add a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, the rind of half a lemon, and four cloves; put them into the stewpan, let all simmer ten minutes, then add fifteen spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), twenty of white sauce (No. 7), and ten do. of consommÉe; reduce the sauce until rather thick, but it must be transparent, season with a little cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, if required; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, boil it up, and pour round the beef.

No. 440. Ox Tongues.

May be served plain boiled; if a good-sized tongue, allow it from three to four hours to boil; put it in cold water, take off the skin, trim off a great part of the root, put it in hot water again a short time, dress it on a dish garnished with vegetables as for stewed rump of beef À la Flamande (No. 428), or served with spinach or a Milanaise sauce (see Fillet of Beef À la Milanaise); but when used as a remove, they are mostly served as part of the garniture of another dish.

No. 441. Loin of Veal À la CambacÈres.

Procure a nice white loin of veal, saw off the chump, cut off the thick skin from the thick part, then cut some lardon of fat bacon and lean raw ham, a quarter of an inch square and three inches long, with which lard the thickest end on the top; skewer the flap underneath, butter the bottom of a large flat stewpan, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and lay the veal on the top of them, the larded side uppermost; add two onions with four cloves stuck in them, one carrot, one turnip, a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves (tied together), half a pint of bucellas wine, and a quart of stock; place it over a sharp fire a quarter of an hour to boil, skim and place it in a moderate oven for two hours (according to the size), basting it every quarter of an hour with the stock; when done glaze and salamander the larded part, but put the cover of the stewpan over the other part (whilst salamandering it) as it must be kept quite white; make a low border of mashed potatoes on the dish you intend serving it on, and have ready the following garniture: you have previously boiled a Russian ox-tongue; take off the skins, and cut it in escalopes the size of five-shilling pieces; then cut up six very large French truffles, and stew two cucumbers; cut in escalopes of the same size as the tongue, make them hot in separate stewpans, in a little stock, and dress them alternately on the border of mashed potatoes all round the dish; place the veal in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms in a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of boiling milk; reduce it over the fire till it becomes rather thick; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season with a little sugar, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; pour a little over each piece of truffle and cucumber, and the rest in the dish; glaze the pieces of tongue carefully, and serve.

No. 442. Loin of Veal À la MacÉdoine de lÉgumes.

Prepare and braise the veal as before, garnish and sauce as for stewed rump of beef À la MacÉdoine de lÉgumes (No. 434).

No. 443. Loin of Veal À la PurÉe de CÉleri.

Prepare and braise the veal as before, without larding it; make a border of mashed potatoes on the dish, then have twenty good heads of celery, cut off the tops within two inches of the bottom, make a purÉe of celery (No. 117) with the tops, and stew the bottoms in a quart of white stock, with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, until tender; dress them upright upon the border of potatoes, place the veal in the centre, and pour the purÉe of celery round; serve very hot; the sauce must be rather thinner than usual.

No. 444. Loin of Veal À la Strasbourgienne.

Roast a loin of veal in vegetables in the manner as described for Fillets of Beef (No. 417), allowing it longer time according to the size; dress it on the dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, then have ready thirty pieces of Strasburg bacon, cut in the shape and size of cutlets; dress them on the potatoes round the veal, pour a sauce poivrade (No. 32) into the dish, but not over the bacon; glaze the bacon, and serve. The Strasburg bacon being very dry, requires soaking at least twenty-four hours; it most be allowed to simmer until very tender; place it between two dishes, with a weight upon it, and when cold cut it into the shapes required, and make them hot in good white stock. Good streaky bacon may be used instead of the Strasburg, if it is difficult to obtain.

No. 445. Fillet of Veal À la PrinciÈre.

Procure a good leg of veal, cut off the knuckle just above the joint, then cut out the bone from the middle of the fillet; have ready two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), cut half a pound of cooked ham and twenty mushrooms into very small dice, mix them with the forcemeat; season rather high with cayenne pepper, salt, and nutmeg, put the forcemeat in the place the bone was taken from, pull the udder of the fillet round, and skewer it up, but not too tight; tie it up with string, put it on a spit, and roast it four hours in vegetables, in the same manner as described for fillets of beef; when done take it from the paper and vegetables, cut off the string, and run three or four silver skewers through it in the place of those you have taken out; the fillet must be quite white; place it on the dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress alternately a piece of tongue and a piece of bacon, each piece cut in the form of a heart, and not more than a quarter of an inch in thickness; glaze the garniture, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce into a stewpan, stir it over the fire until it becomes thick, then add nearly a pint of thin cream; poor the sauce in the dish, but not over the garniture, and serve immediately; the first slice must be cut off the veal previous to its going to table.

No. 446. Fillet of Veal À la Versaillienne.

Cut your fillet as before, have ready boiled an ox-tongue, trim it, cut off the root and about two inches of the tip, put it in the middle of the fillet from where you have taken the bone, and fill up the cavities round the tongue with some forcemeat (No. 120), skewer up the fillet and roast it as before; when done lay it on the dish with a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress alternately a quenelle of veal and a slice of stewed cucumber (No. 1064), then put two quarts of white sauce in a stewpan, with a pint of broth, reduce it, and add nearly half a pint of cream, pour the sauce over the garniture, and sprinkle a little chopped tarragon and chervil over it; serve as soon as possible after you have poured the sauce over, which requires to be seasoned rather high.

No. 447. Fillet of Veal À la Palestine.

Prepare and dress the fillet exactly as before, then peel fifty Jerusalem artichokes, and turn them in the shape of small pears; boil them nicely in salt and water, lay your fillet on a dish with a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the artichokes, the round part uppermost, between each artichoke place a fine Brussels sprout; sauce the same as the last and serve.

No. 448. Fillet of Veal À la JardiniÈre.

Prepare the fillet as before, but place a piece of boiled bacon in the centre instead of the tongue, roast it in vegetables as before, pour a sauce jardiniÈre (No. 100) upon a dish, sprinkle a pint of young green peas plain boiled upon it, dress a cauliflower at each end and another on each side, place the fillet in the middle upon the sauce and serve.

No. 449. Fillet of Veal À la PotagÈre.

Prepare the fillet as before, then lard it through and through with pieces of fat bacon a quarter of an inch square and six inches long, skewer it up tight, put it on a spit and roast it as before, but twenty minutes before it is done take it out of the vegetables but not off the spit, and let it remain before the fire to brown; have ready prepared twenty middle-sized onions, and as many pieces of carrots turned in the form of pears, stew them as directed in stewed rump of beef À la Flamande (No. 428), place the fillet in the dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the onions and carrots, with a cauliflower at each end; have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of consommÉ and half the stock the carrots and onions were cooked in, boil it till it becomes like a thin glaze, pour over the vegetables, sprinkle about a pint of young peas nicely boiled over them if in season, and serve.

No. 450. Fillet of Veal aux petits pois.

Prepare and roast the fillet exactly as the preceding, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, let it boil; have ready a quart of young peas nicely boiled, put them into the stewpan, with the white sauce, a little salt, and half an ounce of pounded sugar, let it boil up, then add two ounces of fresh butter, toss them together over the fire, pour them out into the dish, lay the fillet over, and serve as soon as possible.

No. 451. Neck of Veal À la purÉe de cÉleri.

Take the best end of a neck of veal with about seven bones in it, cut off the chine bones to give it a nice square appearance, and roast it in vegetables as the fillets, but of course it will not require so long; when done, dress it on a dish with a piece of boiled bacon about three inches broad at each end, make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress the bottoms of fifteen heads of stewed celery (No. 117), and sauce with a purÉe of celery made from the tops, as there directed; serve very hot, but glaze the veal and bacon the last thing before going to table.

Prepare a neck of veal, leaving it as long as possible, take off the skin and the chine bones, lard and braise it as for loin of veal À la CambacÈres (No. 441); when done, put three tablespoonfuls of oil into a stewpan, with two of chopped eschalots, two of chopped raw mushrooms, and two of chopped parsley, pass them ten minutes over the fire, then pour off the greater part of the oil, add half a teaspoonful of flour, mix it well, and put in eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire till it becomes rather thick, then add a little salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs, mix all well together, and spread it over the larded part of the veal, egg and bread-crumb it, brown it lightly with the salamander, and serve a jus d’Échalotte sauce (No. 16) with mushrooms in it, pour it in the dish round the veal.

No. 453. Neck of Veal À la Milanaise.

Braise the veal precisely as (No. 441), prepare a Milanaise sauce (see fillet of beef À la Milanaise, No. 425) which pour into the dish and dress the veal upon it.

No. 454. Neck of Veal À la Bruxellaise.

Dress the veal the same as for neck of veal À la purÉe de cÉleri (No. 451), then have about one hundred Brussels sprouts, nicely boiled, put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and the juice of half a good lemon, stir them gently over the fire but do not break the sprouts, pour them upon your dish, dress the veal upon them with a piece of bacon at each end, glaze them, pour half a pint of thin white sauce (No. 7) round over the Brussels sprouts and serve.

No. 455. Breast of Veal.

I do not consider that a breast of veal is good without the tendron (which is usually cut out and braised for entrÉes), yet it would be impossible to roast it with the breast, for it would not be a quarter done by the time the other was; I therefore recommend the following new method: cut out the tendron, braise it as described (No. 685), let it get cold, take the other bones out of the breast, lay some forcemeat of veal (No. 120) down the centre, upon which place the tendron, roll it up, sew it with string and your trussing-needle, oil some paper, tie the veal up in it, and roast it two hours, place a sauce Soubise (No. 47); or jardiniÈre (No. 100) on the dish; take the veal from the paper and lay it upon the sauce, or if preferred you may serve with a plain veal sauce made thus: put ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and the same quantity of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, let it boil ten minutes, skim it, add three tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and it is ready to serve.

No. 456. Breast of Veal aux pois fins À l’Anglaise.

Dress the veal exactly as before, have ready boiled a quart of fresh young peas, put them into a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a small bunch of parsley, boil them ten minutes, season with a little salt if required, pour them into your dish, glaze the veal and serve it upon them.

No. 457. Breast of Veal À la purÉe de cÉleri.

Dress the veal as before, and serve with a purÉe of celery (No. 117) under it.

No. 458. Breast of Veal sauce tomate.

Dress the veal as before and serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) under it. Breasts of veal may be stewed like the necks, or roasted with vegetables, but they are best roasted as before described.

No. 459. Calf’s Head.

Procure a nice white calf’s head that has been well scalded, saw it in halves, taking out the tongue (whole) and the brains, make a white stock as follows: put two carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, (cut up small), a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, four blades of mace, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, pass it over the fire twenty minutes in a long brasier large enough to lay the head in, then add a pint of water with which when boiled mix a quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon of water, two lemons in slices, and a quarter of a pound of salt; let it boil up, then lay the head in, take care that it is well covered or the part exposed would become quite black, when boiling set it on the corner of the stove to simmer for two hours, or until it is done, which you can ascertain by pressing the cheek on the thickest part with your finger, if it gives easily it is done; let it remain in the broth until ready to serve, take it up, drain it on a clean cloth, break off the jaw-bone, lay it on your dish, surround it with six nice boiled potatoes cut in halves, and pour sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over it, or sauce piquante (No. 27), or sauce tomate (No. 37), if preferred.

To serve calf’s head for a remove for a large dinner, when the head is done cut off the ears, take out all the bone, and set it on a large dish, place another dish upon it and press it lightly with a seven pounds weight till it gets cold, then lay it out on the table and cut it into oval pieces two inches wide and three long, make a border of mashed potatoes, warm the pieces in the stock it was boiled in, drain them on a cloth, then dish them alternately with quarters of boiled potatoes round the dish, trim the gristly part of the ears, then cut incisions in them longways without separating the edges, turn them over and they will form a frill, place a little of the brains inside of each, and the remainder with the tongue cut in halves in the centre, upon which place the ears at each end, sauce with Hollandaise as before, but if required with other sauce the quarters of potatoes must be omitted.

No. 460. Calf’s Head au naturel.

Although calf’s head is seldom if ever dressed this way in England it is about the best method; the glutinous substance of the head being so relishing with this sauce, all French epicures patronise it. Take a small calf’s head, lay it upon its skull on the table, open the under part without cutting the tongue, take out the under jaw-bones carefully, fold the cheeks under, tie it round with string, boil it three hours, (as described in the last), when done lay it upon a cloth to drain, untie the string, take out the tongue, peel it, put the point of a knife in the middle of the skull bone, it will open with facility, take off the two pieces of bone that cover the brains, and leave them exposed, place the head upon a dish with one half of the tongue on each side, (each person that partakes of it should be served with tongue and brains); serve the following sauce in a boat: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, a quarter ditto of salt, a little pepper, six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and three ditto of common vinegar; mix all well together and serve; each person should stir the sauce previous to helping themselves to it, for by standing the oil will come to the top; the head requires to be very hot, but the sauce quite cold.

No. 461. Half a Calf’s Head À la Luxembourg.

Procure half a calf’s head, pass your knife under the skin upon the top of the skull and saw off about two inches of the skull bone, boil it as described in the last, when done drain it on a cloth, lay it in a sautÉ-pan, and spread the following forcemeat over it: having previously well washed the brains, cut them in slices, put two ounces of butter in a sautÉ-pan, let it melt, then lay in the brains, sprinkle a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; put them over a slow fire, turn them, and when done chop them fine and put them in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of chopped mushrooms, a little more pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and chopped lemon peel; mix altogether, with the yolks of two eggs; after it is spread wash it over with eggs, with a paste-brush, sprinkle some bread-crumbs over it, place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, place it on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put into a stewpan four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one blade of mace, two cloves, one spoonful of scraped horseradish, and a glass of brandy; let it boil five minutes, add three pints of brown sauce (No. 1), and one ditto of consommÉ (No. 134); when it boils set it at the corner of the stove, skim it well and reduce it to two-thirds, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, and add two dozen of pickled mushrooms, and two dozen very small gherkins; warm altogether, finish with an ounce of anchovy butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pour the sauce round the head and serve; you may dress the whole head, cutting it up as described (No. 459), cover each piece with the forcemeat, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve the sauce in the centre.

No. 462. TÊte de Veau en Tortue.

Dress the head, and when cold cut it in oval pieces, as described (No. 459), make a small elevated casserole of rice in the shape of an oval vase (see No. 626), which place in the centre of the dish, make the pieces hot and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes round it, placing an ear at each end; have ready the following garniture and sauce: make a mierepoix of two onions, one turnip, half a carrot, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, all cut up in slices; put them into a stewpan, with two cloves, half a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, marjoram, winter savory, basil, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, and two ounces of butter; pass it over a fire till it becomes a little brown, then add four glasses of Madeira, two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and half a pint of broth, reduce it on a quick fire twenty minutes, skim it well, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, boil it again till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little sugar, add twenty prepared cockscombs (No. 128), six French truffles sliced, twenty blanched mushrooms, and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); when very hot lay the garniture in the rice casserole, and pour the sauce over the pieces of calf’s head; an attelet with a crawfish, truffle, and large quenelle upon it, may be stuck at each end of the casserole of rice in a slanting direction.

No. 463. Calf’s Head À la Pottinger.

Dress and cut a head in pieces as before, make two croustades of bread, one in the shape of a cushion, and the other like a scallop-shell, make the pieces of head hot, and dress them in your dish on a border of rice (prepared as No. 626), put the croustade in the form of a cushion at one end of the dish, and the other elevated upon a piece of fried bread at the other end, in which put the brains, at each side of the dish dress an ear cut to form a frill, with a plover’s egg in each; have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with six of the vinegar from Indian pickles, let it boil a few minutes, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of white stock, let it boil until it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add twenty mild Indian pickles, the same number of small gherkins, and thirty cockscombs (No. 128), when hot pour the sauce over the head, stick three attelets prepared as in the last in the croustade resembling a cushion very tastefully, and serve.

No. 464. Calf’s Head in currie.

Prepare and dish the head as in the last, boil a pound of rice (see No. 129), and dish it in a pyramid in the middle, leaving a place at the top to lay in the brains; have ready prepared the following sauce: put four onions, two apples (cut in slices), a sprig of thyme, a little parsley, a blade of mace, and six cloves into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, fry them of a light brown, add one tablespoonful of curry powder, mix it well, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of broth; boil altogether twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, let it boil, season with a little salt and sugar, pour over the head and serve very hot. If the currie is preferred browner, use a little brown gravy (No. 135); more currie powder may be added if required very hot.

No. 465. Saddle of Mutton À la BrÉtonne.

Roast a saddle of mutton quite plain (see kitchen at home), for the sauce wash and soak well a pint of young dry French haricots, put them into a large stewpan with three quarts of water (cold), an ounce of salt, and an ounce of butter; set them over a brisk fire till they boil, then set them at the corner and let them simmer for five hours, or till tender, drain them on a sieve, cut four onions in thin slices, put them in a stewpan, with three ounces of butter, stir them over the fire till they are a light brown colour, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well), and a pint of good gravy; when it boils put in the haricots, mix them well, and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, and four ditto of salt, add the gravy from the mutton, with half an ounce of glaze, pour them on the dish, dress the saddle on the top and serve. Care must be taken not to have this sauce either too thick or too thin.

No. 466. Saddle of Mutton au Laver.

Roast the saddle quite plain, put two pounds of fresh laver in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfols of catsup, four ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and one ounce of glaze, make it very hot, pour in the dish, dress the saddle upon it and serve.

No. 467. Saddle of Mutton À la Polonaise.

Roast a middling-sized saddle of mutton, and let it get cold, then cut off all the meat, leaving the bone and flaps uncut, stand it on a strong dish that will bear the oven; have ready some mashed potatoes rather stiff with which build a wall round the bone and flaps, to shape it, again like the saddle, mince the meat you have cut out very fine, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a middling-sized stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, fry them a very light brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of stock, let it boil ten minutes, then add the mutton (mix well), season with pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of catsup, make it quite hot, then add three yolks of eggs, stir well over the fire for three minutes to set the eggs, put it into the saddle, egg all over with a paste-brush, cover the top with bread-crumbs, melt a little butter, which sprinkle over the bread-crumbs, put it in a moderate oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, serve in the same dish, and pour the following sauce round; put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of broth, a spoonful of catsup, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the smallest piece of garlick imaginable scraped on the tip of a knife, boil altogether five minutes, it is then ready. This dish may be made of the remains of a saddle of mutton left from a previous dinner, by procuring sufficient mutton for mincing, and is equally as good.

No. 468. Saddle of Mutton À la Marseillaise.

Prepare the saddle of mutton exactly as for Polonaise, only when you put in the mince, which you have made rather stiffer, have ready prepared the following purÉe: cut six onions in small dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, let them simmer gently until quite tender, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four ditto of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of milk, let it boil twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, stir in the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, let it cool a little, and spread it over the mince, egg over and bread-crumb the top, put it in a moderate oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) rather thinnish round it.

No. 469. Saddle of Mutton rÔti, braisÉ, À la Mirabeau.

Trim a nice saddle of mutton (South Down are the best, from four to five years old), take off the skin and skewer the flaps underneath, roast it in vegetables as directed for fillet of beef (No. 417), about two hours and a half will be sufficient, take it from the vegetables, glaze and salamander nicely, place it on your dish and serve with the following sauce: put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, and when boiling add a teaspoonful of sugar, four of chopped gherkins, and two ounces of boiled beetroot cut in dice; sauce over and serve.

No. 470. Saddle of Mutton, rÔti, braisÉ, aux lÉgumes glacÉ.

Roast the saddle in vegetables as in the last, glaze and salamander, dress on your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress your vegetables prepared as for stewed rump of beef À la Flamande (No. 428), pouring the same sauce over them.

No. 471. Haunch of Mutton.

This delicate joint is generally plain roasted (see Kitchen at Home); when of the first quality and properly kept it is by many compared to venison, although there is not the least resemblance, the fat of venison being so very delicate and palatable that nothing can equal it, but both are very estimable. I shall give but a few simple receipts in order to preserve the flavour of this delicate joint.

No. 472. Haunch of Mutton au jus de Groseilles.

Roast the haunch quite plain, put twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with ten of consommÉ (No. 134), one of tomata sauce (No. 37), and an ounce of glaze, boil it gently half an hour, then add four tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, boil up, pour it on the dish, and the moment you serve lay the haunch upon it; should you dish the haunch too soon the fat would run from it and spoil the sauce; it should be carved in the same way as a haunch of venison, then you keep the gravy from running into the sauce, and can serve it separately.

No. 473. Haunch of Mutton À la BrÉtonne.

Plain roast the haunch, and proceed as for saddle of mutton À la Bretonne (No. 465).

No. 474. Haunch of Mutton À la Polonaise.

Roast a haunch, and when cold cut out all the meat from the middle, leaving the edges (or the mashed potatoes would not stand), mince the meat, shape the haunch with mashed potatoes, and proceed as for the saddle (No. 467). You can use a haunch left from a previous dinner, if not too much cut.

No. 475. Haunch of Mutton À la BohÉmienne.

Procure a small haunch of mutton of about twelve pounds in weight, beat it well with a rolling-pin, lay it in an earthen pan, and cover with a marinade as prepared for fillet of beef (No. 426), let it remain a week, roast it in paste in the same manner as for the haunch of venison (see No. 540); roast it three hours, take it out of the paste, glaze and salamander of a nice brown colour, put a frill of paper to the knuckle, and dress upon your dish with the following sauce round it: pass half a pint of the marinade it was pickled in through a sieve into a stewpan, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), let it boil till it becomes rather thick, skim well, add one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, then add twenty blanched mushrooms, twenty small pickled onions, and twenty French olives (stoned); let them warm in the sauce, which slightly flavour with a little scraped garlick sauce over.

No. 476. Haunch of Mutton aux lÉgumes glacÉs.

Proceed as directed for the saddle (No. 470).

No. 477. Leg of Mutton À la BohÉmienne.

Proceed as directed for the haunch (No. 475), but of course it will not require so much time to roast (for which see Kitchen at Home).

No. 478. Leg of Mutton À la Bretonne.

See saddle of mutton (No. 465).

No. 479. Leg of Mutton au Laver.

See saddle of mutton (No. 466).

No. 480. Leg of Mutton À la ProvenÇale.

Procure a nice delicate leg of mutton, beat it well with a rolling-pin, make an incision at the knuckle in which push four cloves of garlick as deep into the fleshy part of the leg as you can, roast it quite plain, and serve a thin sauce À la BrÉtonne (No. 465) under it, into which you have put a small piece of scraped garlick.

No. 481. Gigot de Mouton de sept heures.

What! seven hours to cook a leg of mutton! exclaims John Bull; shade of the third George protect us, why ‘tis nonsense; to which I must answer you are right, it would rob it of its flavour; but still it gains another flavour which is far from being bad; and you must observe that, although there will be less nourishment it will be much easier of digestion. Well, well, methinks I hear him say, if you are determined upon publishing that destructive receipt (which absurdity I am sure no one upon this soil will ever follow, or disgrace their tables with), write it in French and offend no one; but for heaven’s sake never invite me to dine with you on the day you find room for such a dish upon your table, so taking the hint I give it in my native tongue:—DÉsosse un assez gros gigot de mouton jusqu’À la moitiÉ du manche; vous assaisonnerez des lardons de sel, de gros poivre, de thyme et de laurier pilÉs, et vous piquerez le dedans de votre gigot; ne faites pas sortir vos lardons par-dessous. Quand il est bien piquÉ, vous lui ferez prendre sa forme premiÈre; vous le ficellerez de maniÈre qu’on ne s’aperÇoive pas qu’on l’ait dÉsossÉ; vous mettrez ensuite des bardes de lard au fond de votre braisiÈre, quelques tranches de jambon, les os concassÉs, quelques tranches de mouton, quatre carottes, six oignons, trois feuilles de laurier, un peu de thyme, trois clous de girofle, un bouquet de persil et de ciboule, deux cuillerÉes À pot de bouillon: vous mettrez À cuire votre gigot pendant sept heures, et le ferez aller À trÈs petit feu; vous en mettrez aussi sur le couvercle de la braisiÈre. Au moment de servir vous l’Égoutterez, vous le dÉficellerez, le glacerez, et le servirez avec le mouillement rÉduit dans lequel il aura cuit; ayant soin de bien-Écumer toute la graisse que votre fond est susceptible d’avoir.

No. 482. Necks of Mutton À la LÉgumiÈre.

Cut off the scrags and take the chine bones from two necks of mutton, lard the lean parts with lardons of fat bacon about three inches long, roast them in vegetables as for fillet of beef (No. 417); when done, dress them on a dish, placing fillet to fillet, so as to form a saddle; fill up the crevice between them with mashed potatoes, upon which dress small pieces of cauliflower and small bunches of asparagus, or Brussels sprouts; make a border of mashed potatoes round the mutton, upon which dress some onions, with pieces of carrots and turnips stewed (see stewed rump of beef À la Flamande, No. 428), place four onions at each end of the dish, and stick a fine head of asparagus in each; glaze the mutton, and pour a demi-glace (No. 9) over the vegetables.

No. 483. Necks of Mutton À la Bretonne.

Trim the necks as above, roast them quite plain (see Kitchen at Home), and sauce as for saddle of mutton À la Bretonne, (No. 465.)

No. 484. Neck of Mutton À la BohÉmienne.

Proceed as for haunch of mutton (No. 475), only three days in the marinade will be sufficient.

No. 485. Neck of Mutton À la ProvenÇale.

Trim a neck of mutton, lard it, and put it into a convenient sized stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip (cut in slices), six cloves, a blade of mace, and a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves; cover with white broth, and set it on the fire; when boiling, set it on the corner to simmer for two hours; take it out, and lay it on a sautÉ-pan, spread a purÉe of onions as for cotelettes de mouton À la ProvenÇale (No. 701) over the top, egg and bread-crumb it, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown, sauce with demi-glace as for the cotelettes.

No. 486. Neck of Mutton À la Charte.

Trim two necks of mutton as before, lard and braise as in the last article; then peel some young turnips, and cut about a pint of scoops from them the size of marbles (with an iron scoop); put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar into a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and just as it begins to brown, add two ounces of butter, and the scooped turnips; pass them ten minutes over the fire, then add a pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommÉe; let it simmer till the turnips are quite done; take them out, and put them into another stewpan, skim and reduce the sauce until it becomes rather thickish, season a little more if required and pass it through a tammie upon the turnips, dress the necks upon a dish fillet to fillet to form a saddle; glaze, pour the sauce and turnips round, have twelve pieces of turnips cut in the form of pears and stewed as (No. 1105), dress six of them, one upon the other, in pyramids at each end of the dish, and serve very hot.

No. 487. Breast of Mutton panÉe, grillÉe, sauce piquante.

Procure two breasts of mutton cut as large as possible, which put in a stewpan, and braise three hours in the same manner as described for neck of mutton ProvenÇale (No. 485), previous to placing them in the stewpan tie them well up with string; when done take up, lay them on a dish, take all the string and bones from them, which will leave with facility, place another dish upon them, and press till quite cold with a fourteen pounds weight; about half an hour before serving trim, egg and bread-crumb, beat gently with a knife, melt a little butter in a stewpan, and with a paste-brush butter the mutton all over, throw them again into bread-crumbs, beat gently again with your knife, and put them on the gridiron over a moderate fire; when lightly browned on one side, turn them by placing another gridiron over and turning both gridirons together; when done, take them from the gridiron with a fish-slice, lay on your dish, and serve sauce piquante (No. 27) round, or you may serve them with dressed spinach (No. 1087), sauce Soubise (No. 47) or fines herbes (No. 26).

No. 488. Saddle of Lamb aux petits pois.

Roast a saddle of lamb in vegetables, as described for fillet of beef (No. 417); when done glaze and salamander a light brown colour; put a quart of young peas boiled very green into a stewpan, quite hot, with two ounces of butter, half a tablespoonful of sugar, a little salt, and six tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); shake them round over the fire a few minutes, pour them in your dish, and dress the saddle over. A saddle will require about two hours roasting.

No. 489. Saddle of Lamb À la SÉvignÉ.

Roast the saddle with vegetables as before, make a purÉe d’asperges (No. 102), cut two large cucumbers in pieces about two inches and a half in length; cut each piece lengthwise in three, take out the cores, cut them in the shape of the bowl of a spoon, and stew them as described (No. 103), have ready some quenelles de volaille (No. 120), place a roll of mashed potatoes at each end of the dish; at the bottom dress half a circle, with the cucumber and quenelles, by laying them alternately in a slanting position, and at the top of the dish lay nine quenelles upon a roll of potatoes, formed like the bows of a boat, so that the first quenelle stands out in a point, and the others are brought gradually in to the ends; place a piece of stewed cucumber cut like a diamond between each quenelle, and dress some nice heads of sprue grass in the centre, at each end of the dish; place the saddle in the middle, and pour the purÉe d’asperges (quite hot) on each side.

No. 490. Saddle of Lamb À l’Indienne.

Roast the saddle in vegetables as before, then put a quart of sauce À l’Indienne (No. 45) into a stewpan; when boiling and ready to serve, add thirty very mild green Indian pickles. When hot, sauce round and serve.

No. 491. Saddle of Lamb demi ProvenÇale.

Roast the saddle with vegetables as before; cut six large onions in small dice, which put into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of oil; stir over a slow fire till they are quite tender, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and twelve do. of white sauce (No. 7); boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, one do. of sugar, and a quarter do. of pepper; add the yolks of three eggs, stir it over the fire half a minute, lay it out on a dish, and when nearly cold spread it over the saddle a quarter of an inch in thickness; egg and bread-crumb over, put it in a sharp oven ten minutes, salamander of a light brown, and serve with sauce demi-glace (No. 9) round it.

No. 492. Saddle of Lamb À la MÉnagÈre.

Plain roast a saddle[6] and allow it to get cold, cut out all the meat, leaving the flaps untouched, shape round the saddle a wall of stiff mashed potatoes, cut the meat up in square thin slices, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan; let it boil up, put in your meat, season with lemon-juice, pepper, and salt; moisten with a little white broth, and when it is quite hot add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with four spoonfuls of cream; place it within the saddle, egg all over, sprinkle bread-crumbs on the top, and put it in a sharp oven upon the dish you intend serving it on a quarter of an hour; have ready poached eight eggs, lay them on the top, garnish round with peas, Brussels sprouts, or asparagus, nicely boiled, and pour a white demi-glace (No. 7) round; serve immediately; ham or tongue, with mushrooms cut in slices, may be added with the lamb.

No. 493. Haunch of Lamb.

Like the haunch of mutton, this joint is usually plain roasted, but for a change it may be roasted with vegetables, and served with any of the sauces, as used for the saddle in the foregoing receipts. It will require nearly two hours roasting.

The fore-quarter may likewise be dressed the same ways.

No. 494. Fore-quarter of Lamb À l’HÔteliÈre.

Roast a fore-quarter well covered with oiled paper, and a good distance from the fire, when done it must be a light gold colour, then put a quarter of a pound of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79) in a stewpan, and when beginning to melt add half a pint of good cream; shake the stewpan round till hot, but not near boiling, and the moment you serve pour it upon the dish, and dress the fore-quarter upon it.

No. 495. Fore-quarter of House Lamb aux pointes d’asperges.

Roast the lamb exactly as in the last, have ready a sauce aux pointes d’asperges (No. 101), pour it hot on your dish, lay the lamb upon it, and serve. It will take about an hour roasting.

No. 495. Ribs of Lamb À la ChanceliÈre.

Roast a fore-quarter of lamb with vegetables (see No. 417), and when done cut out the shoulder very round, cut off all the meat from it, and mince it very fine, with half a pound of cooked ham, twenty button mushrooms, and six middling-sized French truffles; then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad oil; fry them of a light yellow colour, add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of stock, and a pint of white sauce; let it boil, keeping it stirred, add your meat and the other ingredients, season with pepper and salt, and when boiling add the yolks of two eggs; stir them in quickly, and pour the whole into the place you cut the shoulder from; egg it over with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over, brown it lightly with the salamander, dress upon your dish, pour a sauce bechamel À la crÈme (No. 56), rather thin, round and serve.

No. 496. Leg of Lamb À la St. John.

Roast the leg in vegetables as described (see No. 417); an hour and a half would be sufficient; when done, place a paper frill on the knuckle, and lay it in your dish; have ready prepared the following sauce: put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of fresh butter, the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; place it over a moderate fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon, and when the butter has melted and begins to thicken (great care must be taken that the eggs do not curdle, which they will do if you allow it to get too hot before the butter is melted, or allow it to boil in the least), add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a little sugar; mix all well together, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, place again over the fire to get hot (but not to boil), keeping it stirred; add half a gill of cream, and if too thick a little milk, pour it over the lamb, have ready a few pistachios each cut in eight lengthwise, sprinkle over, and serve very hot.

No. 497. Leg of Lamb aux pois.

Roast a leg of lamb quite plain, have ready boiled, very green, two quarts of young peas, put them hot into a stewpan, with three pats of butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, a little pepper, salt, and six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), mix all well together over the fire, without breaking the peas; pour them in a dish, dress the leg over and serve.

No. 498. Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach.

Boil a leg of lamb quite plain, which will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half (add a little milk to the water you boil it in), have ready dressed sufficient spinach to cover the bottom of the dish an inch and a half in thickness, dress the lamb upon it, and serve; to dress spinach, see No. 106.

No. 499. Boiled Leg of Lamb À la Palestine.

Boil a leg of lamb, dress it on your dish, and pour a sauce Palestine (No. 87) over it.

No. 500. Roast Leg of Lamb À la JardiniÈre.

Plain roast the lamb, have ready a sauce jardiniÈre (No. 100) pour it on the dish, and dress the leg upon it.

The shoulder may be dressed exactly as the leg.

No. 501. Shoulder of Lamb À la Bruxellaise.

Roast a shoulder of lamb with vegetables, and serve with sauce as for neck of veal À la Bruxellaise (No. 454).

No. 502. Shoulder of Lamb À la Polonaise.

Cut all the meat from the top of the shoulder and a little from the bottom, so as not to spoil the shape; build a wall of mashed potatoes about two inches high round it, and proceed as for saddle of mutton (No. 467).