Pork is a great favourite with some persons but scarcely ever used for removes, except plain roasted stuffed with sage and onions, that I shall describe in my Kitchen at Home, but I shall here give six new ways of dressing pork for removes; it must be of the best quality, small, and, above all, in season.

No. 503. Leg of Pork sauce Robert.

Score the skin of the leg with a sharp knife, oil some paper, wrap the leg up in it, and roast about two hours and a half of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce: put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over a moderate fire till the onions are nicely browned, then add three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar (let it boil), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consommÉ, and a little brown gravy; let it boil at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim it well, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of French mustard; when ready to serve add twenty small gherkins, twenty pickled mushrooms, twenty small quenelles (No. 120), pour the sauce in the dish, dress the leg upon it, put a paper frill on the knuckle and serve.

No. 504. Leg of Pork À la Piedmontaise.

Roast the leg as before, and prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with four of Indian pickle vinegar, let boil a few minutes, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten ditto of consommÉ, let boil twenty minutes, skim well, season with a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stone forty French olives, put them into the sauce, glaze the pork and pour the sauce round.

No. 505. Loin of Pork À la Bourguignote.

Trim a small loin of pork, cut off all the rind, wrap it in oiled paper, and roast of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following preparation: cut six large onions in small dice and put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; let them stew over a slow fire till quite tender and rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and fifteen of brown sauce (No. 1); boil twenty minutes, season with a teaspoonful of chopped sage, half ditto of sugar, and half of salt, finish with the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire half a minute to set the eggs, and spread it over the pork half an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb over it, place it in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and serve the following sauce round it: put fifteen spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommÉ in a stewpan, with two of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and half a one of Chili vinegar, boil altogether ten minutes, and finish with a little sugar, salt, and pepper, if required.

No. 506. Neck of Pork À la Remoulade, À l’Indienne.

Trim the neck, but do not take off the rind, wrap it in oiled paper and roast as previously; make a good sauce remoulade (No. 717), to which add three tablespoonfuls of chopped Indian pickle, pour the sauce in the dish and dress the pork upon it.

No. 507. Neck of Pork À la VÉnitienne.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, fry rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and twelve ditto of brown sauce, reduce it until thick, add half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped mushrooms, and season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and cayenne pepper; let it cool, open part of the neck lengthwise between the skin and the flesh, put in the above preparation, tie up the neck in oiled paper and roast it, then prepare the following sauce: put two chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a spoonful of salad oil, two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; boil five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), six of consommÉ, and six ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil altogether ten minutes, pour the sauce on your dish and serve the pork upon it.

No. 508. Roast Sucking Pig.

Procure a sucking pig of from eight to nine pounds, wash the inside and wipe it well with a dry cloth, prepare the stuffing thus: boil four large onions until quite tender, chop them very fine, with six leaves of sage, a little thyme and parsley, season with a little cayenne pepper and salt, add three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and mix it with three eggs, stuff the pig quite full, sew up the belly, put it on the spit, place it at a distance from a moderate fire (folded in buttered paper) for half an hour, then put it closer, allowing it two hours to roast, but ten minutes before it is done take off all the paper to allow it to become brown and crisp; serve plain gravy in the dish, and bread sauce with currants in it in a boat; before sending it to table take off the head and cut the pig in halves down the back.

No. 509. Sucking Pig À la Savoyarde.

Take a very delicate sucking pig and prepare the following stuffing: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of oil, pass them over a moderate fire five minutes, add half a pound of rice previously well boiled in stock, half a pound of sausage-meat, four pats of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and three eggs; mix all well together, stuff the pig, and roast it in oiled paper, as in the last; prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of salad oil and fry them quite white, add a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and six tablespoonfuls of milk, let it boil a quarter of an hour, skim well, add a good tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar, ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; dress the pig in the dish, pour the sauce round, and garnish with small fried sausages.

No. 510. Turkey À la Nelson.

Make a croustade resembling the head of a ship, as represented in the design; procure a very white nice young turkey, truss it as for boiling, leaving as much of the skin of the neck attached to the breast as possible, have ready the following stuffing: scrape an ounce of fat bacon (with a knife), put it into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, pass five minutes over a moderate fire, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), let it reduce till thick, add twenty small heads of mushrooms, six French truffles cut in slices, and twelve cockscombs; mix all well together over the fire, season with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, half ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; finish with the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, and lay it out on a dish to get cold, then detach the skin on the breast from the flesh without breaking, and force some of the stuffing under the skin; put the remainder in the interior of the breast, roast it in vegetables as described for fillet of beef (No. 417), but just before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, and let it remain before the fire till of a fine gold colour. Fix the croustade at the head of the dish with a paste made of white of egg and flour, make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the turkey in the centre, and have ready the following garniture: fillet three fowls, lard and braise the fillets as No. 792, form the legs into little ducklings as described (No. 1024), prepare six slices of tongue of the size and shape of the fillets, and dress them round the turkey upon the mashed potatoes to form a ship. For the sauce put two glasses of Madeira wine in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar, two minced apples, a small bunch of parsley, a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, and half an ounce of glaze; let it boil a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommÉ, let it boil quickly until it adheres to the spoon, stirring it the whole time, finish with a tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season with a little salt and pepper, boil it another minute, glaze the turkey, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the pieces of tongue and serve.

No. 511. Turkey À la Godard.

Procure a good-sized turkey, very white and well covered with fat, truss it as for boiling, hold the breast over a charcoal fire till the flesh is set, then lard it with fat bacon very neatly, lay the turkey in a braising-pan breast upwards, and pour in as much good veal stock as will nearly reach the larded part, start it to boil, skim, then place it over a slow fire to simmer for three hours, keeping some live charcoal upon the cover of the braising-pan, and now and then moistening the breast with a little of the stock; when done take it up, give a nice yellow colour to the bacon on the breast, put it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: prepare six large quenelles de volaille (No. 122), truss and roast four pigeons (No. 959), lard and cook four fine veal sweetbreads (No. 671), arrange them with taste round the turkey, and have ready the following sauce: strain half the stock the turkey was dressed in through a cloth into a stewpan, let it boil, put it on the corner of the stove, skim till you get off every particle of grease, reduce it to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), let boil, keeping it stirred till becoming a thickish demi-glace, add two dozen cockscombs, and a teaspoonful of sugar, with a little cayenne and salt if required, pour it in the dish but not over the garniture, and serve. Attelets of cockscombs and truffles are sometimes stuck in the breast, but it is an impediment to the carving, and it looks as well without.

No. 512. Turkey À la Chipolata.

Although this dish has been degusted by our great great grandfathers, and has been for upwards of a century one of the strongest pillars of the art, I shall here describe it, as an old proverb justly reminds me that a good thing can never get old. Truss the turkey as for boiling, and to modernize it, lard neatly the right breast, roast thirty good chesnuts which mix in a basin with one pound of sausage-meat highly seasoned, stuff the breast of the turkey with it, and braise as in the last article, when done place it upon your dish, and have ready the following ragout: cut two pounds of lean bacon in long square pieces about the size of walnuts, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, put two ounces of butter in a middling-sized stewpan, with the bacon, fry till becoming rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add by degrees three pints of good white stock, with a quart of white sauce, stir over the fire till boiling, then put in forty button onions, twenty fine heads of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves; boil altogether, and when the onions are done take them with the mushrooms and bacon out of the sauce with a colander spoon, put them into a clean stewpan, with thirty chestnuts roasted white, and eight sausages broiled, each one cut in three, reduce the sauce, keeping it stirred till it becomes the thickness of brown sauce, previously having simmered, and skimmed off all the grease, pass the sauce through a tammie upon the other ingredients, make all hot together, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and pour over and round the turkey (except over the breast), which serve very hot. The old style used to be brown, in that case substitute brown sauce for white and omit the liaison.

No. 513. Small Turkey À la Duchesse.

Procure a small nice turkey, truss it as for boiling, and roast it in vegetables as usual, keeping it quite white, place it upon your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress twenty-five quenelles (No. 120), and twelve slices of tongue (cut in the same shape as the quenelles), have ready boiled very green some French beans cut in diamond shapes, which sprinkle over the breast of the turkey, and sauce over with a purÉe de concombres (No. 105).

No. 514. Poularde À l’Ambassadrice.

Procure a nice white poularde, cut it open down the back, and bone it without breaking the skin, make two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix six large French truffles cut in slices, spread the forcemeat half an inch in thickness upon the inside of the poularde, then have ready boiled and nicely trimmed a small ox tongue, cover it with the forcemeat, fold a slice of fat bacon round, and put it in the middle of the poularde, which roll up and sew from end to end, fold the poularde in slices of fat bacon, and tie it up in a cloth, have ready prepared some vegetables of all kinds cut in slices, put them in a convenient-sized stewpan, lay the poularde upon them, the breast downwards, but first moisten the vegetables with a little salad oil, add half a pint of Madeira wine, and sufficient white broth to cover the poularde, set on a sharp fire to boil, skim, and let it simmer for three hours, prepare the following garniture: braise two spring chickens (trussed as for boiling) three quarters of an hour in the braise with the poularde, have ready prepared a croustade as represented in the design, upon which place a larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, place a fine cockscomb and a large truffle upon a silver attelet, and run it through the sweetbread, sticking it upright in the croustade, then take the poularde out of the cloth, take off the bacon, pull out the string it was sewed up with, dry it with a cloth, and place it upon your dish with the garniture arranged tastefully around it; have ready the following sauce: chop half a pottle of fresh mushrooms very fine, put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, boil over a sharp fire five minutes, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), with one of the braise, let boil, keeping it stirred, until it adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, adding a few spoonfuls of white broth if too thick, season with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt, cut a few very black truffles in slices, and chop a couple very fine, place them on a plate in the hot closet ten minutes; put your sauce again on the fire, and when boiling add a gill of whipped cream, pour the sauce over the poularde and chickens, lay the slices of truffles here and there upon them, and sprinkle the chopped truffles lightly over, the blackness of the truffles contrasting with the whiteness of the sauce has a pleasing effect; serve directly you have poured the sauce and sprinkled the truffles over. The bones being taken out of the poularde they must be carved crosswise, thus carving through tongue and all.

No. 515. Poulardes en DiadÈme.

Make a croustade representing a diadem, stick three silver attelets upon it, on which you have stuck a crawfish, a large truffle, and a large quenelle, roast two poulardes quite white in vegetables, and have an ox tongue nicely boiled and trimmed, place them on the dish with their tails to the croustade and the tongue between; upon the root of the tongue and at the end of each poularde place a nice larded sweetbread well cooked and glazed (or a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress alternately truffles and fine cockscombs, previously dressed (No. 128); have ready the following sauce: peel four middling-sized cucumbers, mince and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, two chopped eschalots, and a little powdered sugar, pass the whole over a slow fire, and stew them gently half an hour, or till quite tender, then mix in half an ounce of flour, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), which moisten with a pint of white broth, let boil till it adheres to the spoon, stirring the whole time, rub through a tammie and put it into a clean stewpan, place over the fire, and when boiling add a gill of cream and two pats of butter; season with the juice of a lemon, a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes and cockscombs, glaze the tongue, truffles, and sweetbreads and serve immediately; do not pour the sauce over until quite ready to serve.

No. 516. Poulardes À la Vicomtesse.

Make a croustade as represented in the plate (fig. 5), roast two poulardes in vegetables as in the last; place the croustade in the middle of the dish, and upon each gradation of it stick an attelet, upon which you have placed two plover’s eggs warmed in stock; place the poulardes on the dish breast to breast, and at the tail of each lay three larded lambs’ sweetbreads (No. 671), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress slices of cooked ham warmed in stock, and cut in the shape of fillets of fowls; have ready prepared the following sauce: cut into thin slices a little carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and parsley, pass them over a brisk fire until lightly browned, add four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one ditto of common vinegar, let boil, add two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), and one of consommÉ, boil it twenty minutes, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; boil altogether till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little salt and pepper if required, sauce over the poulardes; glaze the pieces of ham and serve immediately.

No. 517. Poulardes À la Jeanne d’Arc.

Roast the poulardes in vegetables as before, and dress them with croustade, garniture, and sauce as described in fillet of beef À la Jeanne d’Arc (No. 418).

No. 518. Poulardes À la Jeune Princesse.

Bone two nice poulardes as for poularde À l’ambassadrice (No. 514), lay them on a cloth, have ready prepared four pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), spread some half an inch in thickness over the inside of the poulardes; have ready boiled a Russian tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise, trim each half, lay one upon the middle of each poularde, cut twelve pieces of fat bacon four inches in length and the thickness of your finger, lay three pieces upon each side of the tongue at equal distances apart, and between each piece lay rows of small very green gherkins, season with a little salt and pepper, cover with a little more of the forcemeat, roll and sew up the poulardes, tie them in cloths and braise two hours, as directed for poulardes À l’ambassadrice; when done take them out of the cloths, pull out the packthread you sewed them up with, dress them on your dish in a slanting direction, make a border of mashed potatoes round, have ready twenty small croustades de beurre À la purÉe de volaille (No. 405), which dress upon the mashed potatoes at equal distances apart, and upon the top of each place a plover’s egg (from which you have peeled off all the shell) warmed in broth, between each croustade lay small bunches of asparagus (previously boiled), cut an inch and a half in length, and six or eight in a bunch; have ready the following sauce: put three quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and one of white stock in a stewpan, the sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms, place it over the fire, keep stirring, reduce to two-thirds, add a gill of whipped cream, season with a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes, and upon the breast of each sprinkle a few heads of sprue grass nicely boiled and cut very small; in carving they must be cut across, it will resemble marble.

No. 519. Poulardes À la FinanciÈre.

Roast two poulardes in vegetables as usual; have ready boiled two ox tongues, trim them, nicely cutting off part of the tip; when the poulardes are done dress them up on your dish tail to tail, dress the two tongues crosswise, that is, the tips of the tongues touching the tails of the poulardes, have a very fine larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, which place in the centre (this way of dishing them is very simple but very elegant); have ready the following ragout: put twenty dressed cockscombs, twenty heads of mushrooms, four truffles cut in slices, twelve pieces of sweetbread the size of half-crowns (well blanched), and twenty small quenelles (No. 120), in a stewpan, in another stewpan put two glasses of sherry, half an ounce of glaze, a little cayenne pepper, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half over a good fire, then add three quarts of espagnole or brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty spoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), boil and skim, reduce, keeping it stirred till it becomes a good demi-glace and adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into the stewpan containing the garniture, add a little powdered sugar, make all hot together, pour over and round the poulardes, glaze the tongues and serve.

No. 520. Poulardes À la Warsovienne.

Roast two large poulardes in vegetables, and let them get cold, then take all the meat from the breast, but be careful to leave a rim half an inch in thickness, cut up the flesh in small dice, put it into a stewpan with fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), two truffles cut in slices, and twelve pieces of stewed cucumber (No. 103); season with a little sugar, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg; stir all very gently over the fire (being careful not to break the pieces of cucumber), when it boils add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two spoonfuls of cream, stir them in quickly; have ready warmed in stock the carcasses of the poulardes, place the mince in the breasts, egg over, and bread-crumb round the rims, place them in the oven twenty minutes to set, then dress them breast to breast on your dish; poach twelve plovers’ eggs very nicely, lay six upon each poularde, that is, three upon each side of the breast to form a diamond, then place a small larded lamb’s sweetbread upon the top between the two poulardes and in the centre of the eggs, place a fine cauliflower on each side, and sauce over with a sauce bÉchamel, or maÎtre d’hÔtel (No. 43); glaze the sweetbread and serve.

No. 521. Poulardes aux lÉgumes printaniers.

Roast two poulardes in vegetables as before, then with a sharp knife turn forty young carrots and forty young turnips, keeping them in their shape as much as possible, wash and place them in separate stewpans, with a pint of veal stock and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil until the stock is reduced to glaze, by which time they will be well done, place them in a bain marie to keep hot, peel also forty young onions the same size as your turnips, butter a sautÉ-pan, put in half an ounce of sugar (sifted), over which place the onions, cover with veal stock and let them stew until the stock forms a thickish glaze, place them in the hot closet until wanted, then take up the poulardes, dress tail to tail on your dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round, and at each end place a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled, then place alternately an onion and a turnip with a carrot upon the top between, making a pyramid in the middle of the border on each side; for sauce put the glaze from the vegetables and onions into a stewpan together, boil and skim off all the butter, add two quarts of brown sauce, reduce quickly, keeping it stirred all the time, until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little salt if required; pour the sauce over the whole and serve.

No. 522. Poulardes aux lÉgumes verts.

Roast the poulardes in vegetables as usual, then take ten large turnips, cut each in halves exactly in the centre, peel them thin without leaving the marks of the knife, and scoop out the centres to form them into cups, with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown-piece, cut twenty pieces of turnip one inch in thickness to form stands, stew them nicely in stock as in the last, but not too much done, and place them in the bain marie till ready to serve, then place a border of mashed potatoes round the interior of the dish, leaving sufficient room for your poulardes, and at each end stick a croustade of bread cut in cups but larger than those of turnips, place the turnip cups upon their stands at equal distances apart upon the mashed potatoes, place a nice head of cauliflower upon each croustade, have ready boiled some very young peas and heads of asparagus, fill the cups alternately with each, place your poulardes in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) and a pint of white stock in a stewpan, with the glaze from the turnips, reduce to two-thirds, skim, season with a little salt and sugar, finish with a gill of cream, sauce all over, but lightly over the vegetables, and serve.

Capons may of course be dressed in the same manner as poulardes for removes, but to give a second series would only be a useless repetition.

No. 523. Petits Poulets À la Warenzorf.

Procure four very nice spring chickens trussed as for boiling, roast them in vegetables, as described (No. 417), have also ready boiled and nicely trimmed two deer tongues, place one at each end of the dish making the tips meet in the centre, place a chicken at each corner, its tail in the centre, and between each lay a bunch of fine boiled asparagus; you have made a round fluted croustade of bread about four inches high, and the same in diameter, ornament it on the top with rings the size of a shilling, fried very white, and scoop out the middle of the croustade to form a cup; place it in the centre of your dish, with some fine heads of asparagus cut about four inches in length standing upright in it, glaze the tongues nicely, have two quarts of sauce purÉe d’asperges (No. 102) ready, which pour over the chickens and serve very hot.

No. 524. Petits Poulets À la PÉrigord À blanc.

Scrape four ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two bay-leaves, three cloves, and a blade of mace, set over the fire to melt, and when quite hot take out the spice and bay-leaves, add ten large truffles cut in slices, and four chopped very fine, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7), place it over the fire to reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming very thick, finish with two yolks of eggs and place it on a dish to cool; procure four nice spring chickens, detach the skin from the breasts without breaking, force the above preparation under the skins, sew the skin down (but not too tight, or it would burst in roasting), roast them in vegetables as usual; have ready a croustade in the form of a vase, which place in the centre of your dish filled with fine truffles warmed in strong stock, dress the chickens with taste around it, first draining them upon a cloth, glaze lightly, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with a pint of good veal broth, place it on the fire and when boiling add six large French truffles cut in thin slices, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming thickish, add half a gill of whipped cream; pour the sauce round the chickens and serve very hot.

No. 525. Petits Poulets À la MacÉdoine de lÉgumes.

Procure four spring chickens, roast them in vegetables, but just before they are done take off all the paper and vegetables and let them get a nice gold colour; prepare and poach a piece of forcemeat (No. 120) four inches square, and another two inches square, place the smaller one upon the larger in the centre of the dish, dress the chickens by placing the tails upon the forcemeat and the breasts towards the edges of the dish; you have previously peeled and turned twelve Jerusalem artichokes in the shape of pears, and stewed in white stock, place three at the breast of each chicken, and a piece of boiled cauliflower between each at the tail, build some Brussels sprouts pyramidically at the top, and sauce with macÉdoine de lÉgumes À brun (No. 99).

Fowls may be dressed in the same manner as the chickens and are used when chickens cannot be obtained.

No. 526. Petits Poulets À l’Indienne.

Put one pound of rice nicely boiled (No. 129) in a basin with a quarter of a pound of suet, a little pepper, salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of currie powder, and three or four eggs, mix all well together, then have four spring chickens untrussed, fill them with the above, and truss them as for boiling, stew them one hour gently in a braise as No. 514, make a round croustade of the form of a cup, five inches high, fill with some beautiful white rice in pyramid, with seven or eight mild Indian pickles interspersed, dress the chickens round the croustade, with a piece of boiled bacon three inches long and two broad between each, pour about two quarts of sauce À l’Indienne (No. 45) over, and serve very hot.

No. 527. Petits Poulets au jus d’estragon.

Roast three spring chickens in vegetables, the same as for petits poulets À la macÉdoine de lÉgumes, dress them on your dish, and pour a sauce au jus d’estragon (No. 10) round.

No. 528. Petits Poulets À la Marie Stuart.

Procure four spring chickens trussed as for boiling, detach carefully part of the skin from the breasts, and lay slices of French truffles under the skin, shaping a heart upon the breasts of each, prepare half a pound of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79), divide it in four parts, and place one on the top of the truffles under the skin of each breast, covering with the skin, then put half a pound of butter, two onions, two bay-leaves, and two wine-glasses of pale brandy, with a little stock into a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens, place a sheet of buttered paper over, put on the cover, place it ten minutes over a sharp fire, then set in a moderate oven for an hour, when done take out the string, lay them on a clean cloth to drain; have ready a croustade in the form of a pyramid, which place in the centre of your dish entirely enveloped with mashed potatoes half an inch in thickness; have ready some fine heads of asparagus boiled very green, and cut about an inch in length, stick them upon the pyramid with a small nice white head of cauliflower at the top, dish your chickens round and sauce with a thin purÉe of truffles (No. 53) round them.

No. 529. Petits Poussins À la Chanoinaise.

Have ready three parts roasted in vegetables six very young spring chickens trussed as for boiling, cover them all over with forcemeat (No. 120), throw some chopped truffles and ham lightly over, and pat them into a flat stewpan just covered with some good veal stock, set them in a moderate oven twenty minutes, with the cover over, and when done dress them at the corners of the dish upon a little mashed potatoes, place a small croustade in the centre, upon which place a nicely-cooked larded sweetbread, glaze well, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, with a little sugar, and when boiling have ready a tongue (ready boiled) cut in slices the size of half-a-crown-piece, and six large truffles also sliced, put them into the sauce, and when very hot pour into your dish, but not over the chickens; serve very hot.

Roast four spring chickens in vegetables, have ready some young carrots, turnips, and onions, stewed as directed (No. 428); make a small border of mashed potatoes round the dish, dress the vegetables with taste upon it, variegating them with peas or asparagus heads boiled very green, dress the chickens in the centre and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce well over the fire, keeping it stirred, add half a teaspoonful of sugar and the glaze from the vegetables, reduce again till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pour over the chickens and vegetables, and serve very hot.

No. 531. Petits Poussins À la Tartare.

Procure four very young spring chickens, not trussed, cut off the feet below the joints, break the bone in each leg, then cut an incision in the thigh of the chicken and turn the legs into it, cut the chickens open down the back-bone, and beat them flat, fry five minutes in butter in a sautÉ-pan, season with a little pepper and salt, egg and bread-crumb them all over, lay them on a gridiron over a moderate fire, and broil a nice light-brown colour; for sauce put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and six of consommÉ in a stewpan, and when it has boiled ten minutes add ten spoonfuls of sauce tartare (No. 38), stir altogether till quite hot, but do not let it boil, pour it on your dish, garnish the edges of the dish with slices of Indian pickle, dress the chickens upon the sauce and serve directly; the sauce tartare may also be served cold with the chickens glazed and served hot upon it.

No. 532. Petits Poussins À la MarÉchal.

Truss and broil four chickens precisely as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a stewpan, with a small piece of glaze, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty tablespoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce ten minutes until forming a demi-glace, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the chickens, dish them upon the sauce and serve.

No. 533. Goose À la Chipolata.

Truss your goose nicely, and lard the breast (with lardons of fat bacon three inches long) here and there slantwise, then proceed exactly as for turkey À la chipolata (No. 512).

No. 534. Goose stuffed with chesnuts.

Procure a fine goose, truss it, chop the liver very fine, cut an onion in small dice, put them in a stewpan, with the liver, and a quarter of a pound of scraped fat bacon, pass them over a slow fire for ten minutes or a little longer, have ready roasted and peeled thirty fine chesnuts, put them in the stewpan, with two bay-leaves, let them stew slowly over the fire half an hour, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, and when nearly cold stuff the inside of the goose, which sew up at both ends; roast an hour and a half in vegetables, and just before it is done take away the paper and vegetables and let it get a nice light-brown colour, dress on a dish and serve a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12), in which you have introduced two tablespoonfuls of apple jelly; a little sage may be added to the above preparation if approved of.

No. 535. Goose À la Portugaise.

Prepare your goose, then peel four Portugal onions, cut them in thin slices and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter; let them simmer over a slow fire until quite tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and sugar, with half a pint of white sauce (No. 7); boil altogether twenty minutes, then stir in the yolks of two eggs and put it out on a dish to cool, stuff the goose with it, which roast as in the last, dress upon your dish with ten stewed Portugal onions and sauce as directed for stewed rump of beef À la Portugaise (No. 431).

No. 536. Ducklings aux olives.

Roast four small ducklings in vegetables; have ready a croustade cut in the shape of a vase, set it on a few mashed potatoes in the centre of the dish, dress the ducklings with their tails towards it, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, when it boils have ready turned sixty French olives, which throw into it, season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, when very hot put the olives on the top of the croustade, pour the sauce over and serve directly.

No. 537. Ducklings au jus d’orange.

Roast four ducklings as in the previous article, dress a croustade in the centre of the dish, upon which place a fine Seville orange with a silver attelet through it, dress the ducklings round, and serve with a jus d’orange sauce (No. 17).

No. 538. Ducklings aux lÉgumes printaniers.

Roast them as above, and serve as directed for the poulardes (No. 521).

No. 539. Ducklings À la Chartre.

Roast your ducklings as before, have ready fifty young turnips turned in the shape of pears, put half an ounce of sifted sugar into a convenient-sized stewpan, set over the fire, and when it melts and assumes a brownish tinge add half a pound of butter and the turnips, toss them over every now and then, and when about three parts done and a light-brown colour turn them out on a cloth to drain the butter from them, likewise drain all the butter from the stewpan, put your turnips again into it, with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of white stock, and a bunch of parsley, boil altogether ten minutes, or till the sauce adheres to the spoon, dress a croustade in the form of a vase in the centre of the dish, dress the ducklings round, take the parsley from the sauce, dress some of the turnips with taste upon the croustade and the remainder between each duckling; pour the sauce round and serve.

No. 540. Haunch of Venison.

May be decidedly called the second great pedestal; turtle soup and haunch of venison certainly being the two great pedestals, or Gog and Magog of English cookery. It is appreciated from the independent citizen to the throne; for where is there a citizen of taste, a man of wealth, or a gourmet, who does not pay due homage to this delicious and recherchÉ joint, which ever has and ever will be in vogue; but even after all that nature has done in point of flavour, should it fall into the hands of some inexperienced person to dress, and be too much done, its appearance and flavour would be entirely spoilt, its delicious and delicate fat melted, and the gravy lost; of the two it would be preferred underdone, but that is very bad and hardly excusable, when it requires nothing but attention to serve this glorious dish in perfection.

A good haunch of venison weighing from about twenty to twenty-five pounds will take from three to four hours roasting before a good solid fire; trim the haunch by cutting off part of the knuckle and sawing off the chine bone, fold the flap over, then envelope it in a flour and water paste rather stiff, and an inch thick, tie it up in strong paper, four sheets in thickness, place it in your cradle spit so that it will turn quite even, place it at first very close to the fire until the paste is well crusted, pouring a few ladlefuls of hot dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper catching fire, then put it rather further from the fire, which must be quite clear, solid, and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat on every part of the venison; when it has roasted the above time take it up, remove it from the paste and paper, run a thin skewer into the thickest part to ascertain if done, if it resists the skewer it is not done, and must be tied up and put down again, but if the fire is good that time will sufficiently cook it, glaze the top well, salamander until a little brown, put a frill upon the knuckle, and serve very hot with plenty of plain boiled French beans separate. For the mode of carving a haunch of venison, see preface.

No. 541. Haunch of Doe Venison À la Corinthienne.

Trim your haunch and lard the fillet of the loin and the leg as you would a fricandeau, put it for a week in a marinade (No. 426), turning it over every other day; place it on a spit, tied up in oiled paper, and roast it two hours, but just before taking up, take off all the paper, to give a nice colour; dress it on your dish with a frill at the knuckle, and have ready the following sauce: well wash and pick half a pound of fine currants, soak them in water two hours, dry them well on a sieve, put half a pint of the marinade through a sieve into a stewpan, with two glasses of port wine, and two chopped eschalots, reduce to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add your currants, season with a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, pour the sauce round the haunch, and serve.

No. 542. Necks of Doe Venison À la Corinthienne.

Trim two necks of venison by cutting out the shoulders, not too deep, cut the breast off rather narrow, slip your knife between the rib bones and the flesh to half way up, saw off the bones, skewer the flap over, detach the chine bones from the flesh, saw them off, and lard the fillets; put them in marinade (No. 426) one day (they must be well covered), tie them up in oiled paper, and roast for one hour; when done glaze and salamander the tops, dress them fillet to fillet on your dish, and sauce the same as for haunch À la Corinthienne.

No. 543. Necks of Venison À la BohÉmienne.

Proceed as above, and sauce as for fillet of beef À la BohÉmienne (No. 426.)

No. 544. Faisans À la Corsaire.

Procure three young pheasants, truss them as for boiling, chop the livers very fine, and put them into a basin with a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, one pound of bread-crumbs, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and thyme; mix the whole well together with four eggs, put in a mortar, pound it well, stuff the birds with it, and roast them in vegetables; make a croustade shaped like the bows of a ship, dress it at the head of the dish, make a large quenelle (No. 120), which ornament with truffles to fancy; run a silver attelet through it lengthwise, and stick it at the top of the croustade, dress the pheasants on the dish, the tails of two of them touching the croustade, and the other between, with its breast towards the end of the dish; have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of the sauce À l’essence de gibier (No. 60) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white broth; reduce till it adheres to the spoon, then add twenty dressed cockscombs and twenty heads of mushrooms; sauce over the pheasants and serve.

No. 545. Faisans À la Garde Chasse.

Procure four very young hen pheasants, truss them for roasting, merely cut off the tips of the claws, make a small incision in the leg at the knuckles, and truss them with their claws resting on their thighs, and their knuckles over their tails; stuff them with the same preparation as in the last, but adding a glass of brandy and half a gill of double cream; put them on your spit, have ready washed and cut from the roots a few good handfuls of heather from the mountain, surround the birds with it, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them three quarters of an hour, take them up, and dress them on your dish in the form of a cross; have four large quenelles of game (No. 123), and place one between each pheasant; have ready the following sauce: put two glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce of glaze; boil three minutes, then add a quart of the sauce À l’essence de gibier (No. 60); boil altogether ten minutes, skim, add two ounces of fresh butter, stir it in with a wooden spoon; when quite melted pour the sauce over the birds, and serve.

No. 546. Faisans truffÉs À la PiÉmontaise.

Procure four young pheasants as above, but they must be quite fresh, stuff the breasts of them with half a pound of truffles prepared as for poularde À la PÉrigord (No. 524), only using half oil and half bacon, and adding half a clove of garlic scraped; show as much truffles as possible under the skin; they must be kept in that way a week or more (according to the weather), before they are fit for dressing; roast nearly an hour in oiled paper of a light gold colour, dress upon your dish in the form of a cross, have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of clear aspic (No. 1360) in a stewpan, reduce twenty minutes, cut six raw or preserved truffles in slices, put them into the aspic with a glass of champagne, hock, or madeira, and a little sugar; stew them twenty minutes, sauce over your birds, and serve very hot.

No. 547. Faisans À l’Extravagante.

This is a very elegant remove, and can be made where woodcocks are plentiful, but to the economiser it would appear a most extravagant extravaganza; procure two large pheasants and six woodcocks, fillet the woodcocks and cut each fillet in halves lengthwise, put two ounces of scraped bacon in a sautÉpan with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots and half a pottle of chopped mushrooms; lay the fillets over them, season with pepper and salt, set them over the fire five minutes, turn the fillets, set them again on the fire five minutes longer, add twenty tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), half a pound of cockscombs previously cooked, a little grated nutmeg, and half a spoonful of sugar; it must be rather highly seasoned; add three yolks of eggs, stir a minute over the fire till the egg sets, then put it on a dish to cool; when firm divide it in two, and stuff the pheasants with it, having previously extracted all the breast bone, sew the skin of the neck over on the back, but do not draw it too tight, or it would burst on the breast; surround with fat bacon, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them one hour, but just before they are done take off the paper and bacon; shake flour over, and they will become brown and crisp; have ready prepared the following sauce: put the remainder of the woodcocks in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, two eschalots (cut in slices), a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, two cloves, and half a blade of mace, let simmer a quarter of an hour, add a quart of brown sauce, let the whole boil together twenty minutes at the corner of the stove, take out the pieces of woodcock, and pass the sauce through a tammie into a clean stewpan, take the flesh and trails of the woodcocks from the bones, which pound well in the mortar, then put it in the sauce, boil it up again, season with a little pepper, salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, and rub it through a tammie with two wooden spoons, the sauce is then ready; for garniture cut twenty-four pieces of bread in the form of hearts, cover them on one side with forcemeat (No. 123) rather thick in the middle, and fix a cockscomb ready dressed upon each; butter a sautÉ-pan, and lay them in it; cover them over with a sheet of buttered paper, and place them half an hour in a moderate oven; make a border of forcemeat (No. 120), poached in pieces an inch broad and half an inch thick, which lay on your dish, upon which dress them, place the pheasants in the centre, pour the sauce round, glaze the birds and cockscombs, and serve.

The way to carve pheasants dressed this way is as follows: the breast being free from bone, detach the legs with a knife, and cut the breast in slices in a slanting direction; the scraped bacon will escape in roasting, keeping the birds moist; they will not cut greasy, but will have a marbled appearance like gallantine.

No. 548. Grouse À la Rob Roy.

Grouse are the most favourite birds in this country, and certainly the most welcome; they make their first appearance on the 12th of August, a time when most delicate palates are fatigued with domestic volatile productions, at that period they are very properly used for roasts only; but when more plentiful they are very excellent dressed in the manners I have here described, though seldom or ever used for removes; I have, for the sake of variety which is said to be charming, given a few new methods. Pick, draw, and truss four grouse, make a stuffing like for the pheasants (No. 544), using the liver of the grouse, stuff and place them on the spit, surrounded with fat bacon and sprigs of heather, moistened with a glass of whiskey, tie them up in paper and roast three quarters of an hour, dress on a dish in the form of a cross, and have ready the following sauce: put a quart of good melted butter in a stewpan on the fire, and just as it begins to boil, add a quarter of a pound of butter; stir the sauce till the butter is melted, season rather high, and pour over your birds; (the sauce must be rather thick, but not too thick;) under each bird place a piece of toasted bread well glazed; serve very hot.

No. 549. Grouse À la Corsaire.

See Faisan (No. 544).

No. 550. Grouse À la PiÉmontaise.

See Faisan (No. 546).

No. 551. Grouse À la Garde Chasse.

See Faisans (No. 545).

Of Black Cocks and Grey Hens.

These birds are a similar flavour to the grouse, only much larger, and may be dressed just in the same manner, only two cocks will be sufficient for a remove of ten or twelve persons if well garnished with quenelles, cockscombs, mushrooms, truffles, &c.

No. 552. Hare À la Macgregor.

Skin a fine young hare, and truss it as for roasting, stuff with a forcemeat made of the liver (see faisan À la corsaire, No. 544), put it on the spit, rub well with oil, and while roasting sprinkle a little flour over now and then; have ready the fillets of three other hares skinned and nicely larded, put some butter in a sautÉ-pan, and fry them gently of light brown colour, rather underdone; cut each fillet in halves, and have twelve pieces of toasted bread cut in the form of hearts, of the same size as the fillets; dress them alternately on your dish upon a border of mashed potatoes, dress the hare in the centre, glaze the fillets and bread, and pour a quart of sauce poivrade (No. 33), in which you have introduced a spoonful of mild orange marmalade instead of the currant jelly, over the hare, and serve very hot.

No. 553. Levraut À la CoursiÈre.

Skin and draw two leverets just caught by the dogs, save the blood in a basin, truss them for roasting, lard the fillets, roast half an hour before a quick fire, put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan; when boiling stir quickly with a wooden spoon, and pour in the blood; add a little salt, cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, four pats of butter, and the juice of a lemon; sauce over the leverets and serve immediately.