THE union which has been forced between the “Children of the Son” and those of proud Albion has thrown some beneficial rays upon our European domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and habits, they have at all events changed them.

It is true that we had, previously to this, reaped marvellous things from the “Celestial Empire;” but the English nation, always eager for novelty, could not be contented with their (Ombres Chinoises) Chinese shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since this astonishing conquest you have Chinese quadrilles, Chinese fashions, exhibitions furiously Chinese, and, for certain, several millions of dollars, which are every bit as Chinese as the illustrious descendant of more than forty centuries, whom you are still expecting as a most extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “jolies Anglaises,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you appear to walk with difficulty; really, if you continue this practice, you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty feet for sitting, but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual part, which is covered with your splendid “blonde chevelure,” will suffer as much as your little feet; and it will be a contest between your astonishing and gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair turned up first, in hopes to resemble your celestial sister and nuptial companion of the expected plenipotentiary. Your beautiful eyes, I hope, will remain in their primitive purity; also that clear and rich tone of colour, which brings to mind those extraordinary fine visages clair de lune de l’antiquitÉ. The island of Great Britain adds to and preserves this superb and almost ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent.

You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fantastic manner of that captured country; that is, near an inch longer than our insignificant custom in Europe, which is, they say, “a part of the world far from being civilized.” I would also advise you to use with moderation the beaume Cremeux Houbigant, which will preserve them that beautiful vermeil, so greatly admired.

But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashionable taste, you sacrifice a thousand chefs-d’oeuvre, and entirely forsake our illustrious favorites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Auber, Handel, and many others; because you recollect that the harp, guitar, piano, &c., were not invented for the Mandarins: but setting aside all these little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the gratification of hearing, “There goes a lady of the newest fashion.”

While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an enormous Epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and still less partial to politics (which proves the difficulty of finding several great accomplishments centred in one person), was waiting with intense anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-page; immediately addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said, “Tout ce que vous venez de dÉbiter est certainement bien plat,”—“but where the deuce is your new plat d’entrÉe, or entrÉe dish?”

I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived, to my great surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory to undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology on each side, the following dialogue took place between us:

“There is the model of the dish; what do you think of it, sir?”

“I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I have not lost anything by waiting; it displays great taste and originality, and possesses the seal of innovation.

“Allow me to take off the cover.”

“Ah! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments?”[29]

“The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers, amongst which your great diplomatist, Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to the Club), in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard from several illustrious men—— By the by, he has honoured me by subscribing for a set of them—here is my album, and see, there is his autograph:

—for four pagodatique entrÉe dishes; this completes the service for the present, but in a short time a complete service for first and second course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price. But to return to the subject. I was telling you that those gentlemen had informed me that the Chinese have, upon their tables at their banquets, a profusion of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served with sauce or gravy, a plate being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion, surrounded by three or four small saucers, each containing different ingredients, spices, and pickles, suited to the dish they partake of; each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they consider eatable. They then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favorite seasoning to their taste. It might not be to either yours or mine, but for all that, I do not blame them.”

“‘Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode your plate is free from incumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.”

“I have frequently heard of a ‘Potage aux nids d’oiseaux,’ we call it in English, birds’-nest soup; it is said to be of the most astonishing delicate substance.”

“I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that subject; we will now return to our new ‘plat d’entrÉe.’”

Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china establishment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this pagodatique table ornament.

“The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one entrÉe may have four different sauces, four entrÉes the varieties of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the entrÉe as the Chinese do, au naturel. To add to its great variety, small dinners (trÈs recherchÉs) can be served upon it for one or two persons, the sight of a small and delicate entrÉe will sometimes invite the appetite, where a large entrÉe approaches too near vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect; to know how to live an Epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe, that, from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always bear in mind that ‘moderation is the goddess of health.’”

“Very true! very true!”

“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and, still less, the pleasure of dÉgustation; so true is this, that even the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without charm, even the sun—yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study those great agents of nature which preside over our organic movements. Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”

“I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognised the profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind as to name a few entrÉes you would recommend for these compartments, and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?”

“It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several: for instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre, filets de sole À la Hollandaise, and in the four corners

Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,
Un Filet de Volaille, piquÉ À la PurÉe de Champignons,
Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,
Demi Perdreaux en Salmi.
Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges,
Quatre Rissoles aux HuÎtres.
In the centre. Poulet printanier piquÉ aux Cressons,
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton À la RÉforme,
Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes.
Deux Filets de Grouse À la BohÉmienne,
Deux Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf, sauce poivrade.
Centre. One slice of Salmon en Matelote,
Deux Croquettes de Volaille, À la PurÉe de Foie Gras,
Un Ris de Veau piquÉ À la FinanciÈre.
Deux Grenadins de Veau À la Palestine,
Deux Boudins de Volaille À la Richelieu.
Centre. Roast Duckling,
Deux Eperlans frits À la BoulangÈre,
Salmi de BÉcasse.
Deux Ris d’Agneau piquÉ À la PurÉe de Choufleurs.
Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne.
Centre. A slice of Turbot À la Mazarine,
Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille À la Marengo,
Deux Rissolettes À la Pompadour.

“I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same.

Pommes de Terre À la MaÎtre d’HÔtel,
Carbonade de Mouton À la ProvenÇale.
Centre. Small Rumpsteak,
Un Choufleur, sauce au beurre,
Un Pigeonneau À la JardiniÈre.
Choux de Bruxelles À la CrÈme,
Minced Veal and two poached Eggs.
Centre. Half a broiled Fowl with gravy,
Pomme de Terre À la Hollandaise,
Un Filet de Boeuf, sauce tomate.
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton À la Soubise,
Quatre JÉrusalem Artichauts À la BÉchamel.
Centre. Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce,
Minced Beef, sauce piquante,
Pomme de Terre frite.
Stewed Oysters,
Two Potatoes plain boiled.
Centre. Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce,
Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham,
Un Brocoli, sauce au beurre.