Although the art of making pastry is very nearly as old as the world, having been the delight of the ancients, and of the sensual inhabitants of Asia, it is only within the last twenty years that it has attained any degree of perfection, which is partly due to the talent and intelligence of my illustrious compatriot and confrÈre, Careme, who has left little or no room for innovation in that vast field of culinary delight; but I shall endeavour as much as possible to simplify the present excellent system, and introduce as much novelty as I can into that department, which is considered the greatest ornament of the second course; I must here likewise observe that as ages change so also do the fashions. Fifteen years ago large ornamental pieces, (or piÈces montÉes,) were very much in vogue, but at the present time I know many epicures that would object to sit down before those once favorite monuments, or colossal sugar ornaments, the modern table embellishments having very properly fallen into the hands of the silversmith. Simplicity, the mother of elegance, being now the order of the day.
Of different sorts of Paste.
The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as it is here to which I must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d’oeuvres and entrÉes; to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing, for although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked; should the oven be too hot the paste would become set and burn before it was done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.
For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is hot by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough, but if you cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few observations to all my readers, but particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them.
No. 1132. Puff Paste.
Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the hand, then fold the paste in three so as to hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour, then roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for the study and trouble.
No. 1133. Puff Paste with Beef Suet.
Where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute: skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last using it instead of butter.
No. 1134. Half Puff Paste.
Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll and it is ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for which it is well adapted.
No. 1135.[13] PÂte À dresser.
Put three pounds of the best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and the yolks of six eggs; the butter must not be too firm, add half a pint of water, squeeze all well together with your hand, mixing the flour in by degrees, tearing well to pieces with the right hand, holding it with the left until it forms a smooth but stiffish paste, but if so stiff that you cannot work it without cracking, press out flat with your hand, sprinkle water upon it, fold over, press out again, proceeding in like manner until you have obtained the consistency required; you must also be careful not to make it too soft, as in either case you would not be able to use it. This paste must not be too much worked after it is mixed or it would become greasy; more care must be exercised in summer than in winter in this respect, it is used for raised pies either hot or cold.
No. 1136. PÂte fine or PÂte À foncer.
Put three pounds of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, six eggs, and sufficient water to form it into a rather stiffish paste (it will require about half a pint), mix well together, drawing in the flour by degrees; when well mixed, roll out four times as for puff paste, let remain half an hour and it is ready for use where directed.
No. 1137. PÂte d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste.
Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put one pound of sifted sugar, mix it well with twelve eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use.
This paste was very much used when piÈces montÉes were so much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour, the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made.
No. 1138. PÂte d’Amande.
Blanch a pound of almonds, put one fourth of them into a mortar, pound well, moistening with a little water to prevent them oiling; when pounded to a paste take it out, add another fourth, and proceed in like manner till they are all done, then rub them through a hair sieve and put them into a preserving pan with one pound and a half of sifted sugar, set over a slow but equal fire, keep stirring for about five-and-twenty minutes, clearing it from the sides of the pan, press with your finger and if it feels tough take it out and put in the mortar with the eighth of an ounce of gum tragacanth, soaked and squeezed through a napkin; add the juice of a lemon, and pound well together till quite cold, it is then ready for use, but if not used directly roll it up in a ball and place it upon a plate under a basin to keep moist, it will keep for weeks if moist. Of this paste you can form stands, or convert it into any ornament your fancy may direct. Low stands are the best for entremets, being much better than the old-fashioned ones, that were made eight or ten inches in height, and when a jelly or cream served upon it was cut even by the most experienced person as soon as the first spoonful was taken the remainder was often seen dancing upon the table, to the horror of all persons of good taste. For myself I never use anything of the description, except for cold luncheon or supper, and even then of the most simple construction.
No. 1139. Pastillage or Gum Paste.
Put two ounces of gum tragacanth into a small basin, pour a quart of filtered water over it, and cover the basin with a sheet of paper to keep it free from dust; let soak twenty-four hours, then pour off the water and place the gum in a strong cloth, through which squeeze it on to a plate, not leaving a particle in the cloth; then place it upon your pastry slab, work it round with your hand until as white as cream, have an equal quantity of starch-powder, and powdered sugar, which you have passed through a silk sieve, work it in by degrees, keeping it well worked with the hand until it becomes a stiffish paste, firm enough to roll and cut into any shape required. It may be used instead of pÂtÉ d’amande.
No. 1140. Vol-au-Vents
Of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) giving it only six rolls and a half instead of seven, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish, then with a sharp-pointed knife cut it out from the paste, holding the knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking sheet, which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven, if getting too much colour cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set cut off the lid and empty it with a knife; if for first course it is ready, but if for second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for entrÉes will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold colour.
No. 1141. Vol-au-vent de PÊches.
Put three quarters of a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then have twelve peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, six at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a tammie into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve, dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over, served as a compote with small pastry around it; in stewing the fruit, be careful that it does not catch in the least, a round-bottomed pan or regular sugar-pan is the best to use for this purpose, but if not convenient a common stewpan may be used.
No. 1142. Vol-au-vent d’Abricots.
Cut twelve apricots, not quite ripe, in halves, break their stones and blanch their kernels, which with the apricots put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar broken into small pieces, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; stew them ten minutes over a quick fire, moving them round occasionally, then pour them into a basin, which stand upon the ice, when quite cold fill your vol-au-vent and serve; should the apricots be quite ripe, proceed as directed for the peaches, but leaving their skins on.
No. 1143. Vol-au-vent of Greengages.
Proceed exactly as in the last, only using twenty or twenty-four greengages instead of the apricots.
No. 1144. Vol-au-vent de Cerises.
Pick and stone four pounds of cherries, which put into a pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, stew them about twenty minutes over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill your vol-au-vent and serve. Should the syrup be too thick, reduce it until thick enough to envelop the fruit.
No. 1145. Vol-au-vent de Poires.
Take twelve middling-sized ripe pears, which cut in halves, peel them neatly, and take out the cores; throw them into a pan, in which you have put the juice of two lemons, and the thin rind of one cut in thin strips and three quarters of a pound of sugar broken small; pass them over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally till tender, put them upon the ice to get cold; when ready, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve.
No. 1146. Vol-au-vent de Pommes.
Procure twenty small golden pippins, peel them neatly, and take out the cores with a long round vegetable cutter; rub them over with lemon, and stew till tender in syrup made from three quarters of a pound of sugar as for the peaches (No. 1141); when cold dress them as high as possible in a vol-au-vent, and when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.
No. 1147. Vol-au-vent d’Oranges.
Take ten fine oranges, cut them in halves, peel them, but not to lose their shapes, have a rather thicker syrup than usual, simmer the oranges five minutes, ten at a time, lay them upon a dish, reduce the syrup, and when cold dress in pyramid in a vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over.
No. 1148. Gateau de Millefeuille À la Moderne.
Make a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, roll out to the thickness of two penny-pieces, from which cut ten round pieces, each about five inches in diameter, sprinkle water over two baking-sheets, upon which lay them, wet lightly with water, and sprinkle a little rough sugar over them, but not too coarse; bake very crisp in a moderate oven, keeping them as white as possible; when baked lay one upon your dish, which cover with apricot marmalade; then another, which cover with orange marmelade; then another, which cover with currant jelly, proceeding thus to the top; when finished mask the whole over with apricot marmalade, sprinkling plenty of very finely chopped pistachios round, and decorate the top with what dessert fruits you have in season, cherries, strawberries, or raisins, dressed in pyramid.
No. 1149. Turban À la CrÈme aux Macarons amers.
Give half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) ten rolls, and from it cut eight round pieces of the same size as in the last; then with the same cutter cut three pieces out of each in the form of middling-sized leaves, wet lightly upon the top, and dip them into some coarse sugar (pounded and sifted through a coarse wire sieve), place them upon a wet baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven as white as possible; then have ready a round board a quarter of an inch thick, and, according to the size of your dish, made of pÂte d’office (No. 1137) and baked in a moderate oven; boil also half a pound of sugar au cassÉ (No. 1379), dip the ends of the pieces of pastry singly into it, and build them in crown upon the rim of your board, one row surmounted by another, dressed the reverse way; make a meringue mixture with two whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which lay in fillets, with a paper cornet upon the top; sprinkle over with some very green chopped pistachios, and set in a warm place to dry, but not any longer than necessary; whip a pint of good double cream very stiff, with which mix a little sugar, a quarter of a pound of crushed ratafias, and a glass of good noyeau; put the cream in the turban when ready to serve.
No. 1150. Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes.
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) give it nine rolls, from it cut eight round pieces half an inch in thickness, then with a cutter, four sizes smaller, cut a piece from the centre of each, so as to form rings; place them upon a baking-sheet, wet the tops lightly, and sprinkle a little coarse sugar over; bake them in a moderate oven as white as possible, dress one upon the bottom of your dish, cover it with a sweetmeat of some description, and proceed in like manner to the top; fill with any of the fruits as described for the vol-au-vents, have a little cream whipped very stiff lay it in piping with a paper cornet, between each ring, and garnish the top tastefully with fillets of red currant jelly or green angelica.
No. 1151. Gateau de Pithiviers.
Blanch and pound well half a pound of almonds, moistening them with a little white of egg to keep them from oiling; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, beat well together till it becomes smooth and creamy, then add the yolks of four eggs; beat two minutes longer, add the pounded almonds, with two ounces of crushed ratafias, and half a gill of whipped cream; you have previously made half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), divide it nearly in halves, having one piece larger than the other, mould them gently into two balls, roll out the smallest to the thickness of a penny, keeping it quite round, lay it upon a baking-sheet, put the above mixture in the centre, and spread it over, leaving the space of half an inch from the edge all round, roll out the other piece of paste rather larger and thicker than the former, wet the first sheet round the edges with a paste-brush, and cover the other over, closing it carefully, trim and notch round, egg over the top, and with the back of your knife sketch some design upon it; bake three quarters of an hour in a warm oven, but when the paste is sufficiently coloured, cover with a sheet of paper; when done sift a little sugar over, and glaze with the salamander.
The original cake is baked quite white by using water instead of eggs, and throwing sugar over; my objection to which is, that many people in this country, from its appearance, fancy it is not sufficiently baked, and must be indigestible; it may, however, be baked either way, according to fancy.
No. 1152. Tourte d’Entremet À la CrÈme.
Make a piece of paste thus: place six ounces of flour upon your slab, with three ounces of butter, rub well together, make a hole in the centre, in which put one egg, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a very little water, mix well together, then mix the whole into a stiffish paste; roll it out of the size and shape you want your tourte, and place it upon a baking-sheet, then have ready a pound of puff paste, roll it to about three quarters of an inch in thickness, cut out a piece exactly of the same size and shape as the other, cut out the centre, so as to leave a band of about an inch in breadth, wet the piece of paste upon the baking-sheet, and place the band upon it at the rim, pressing down lightly; egg it upon the top, but do not let it touch the side; mark round with the back of your knife every quarter of an inch, and fill the interior with frangipane (No. 1295), bake about half an hour in a warm oven, and serve when cold.
Should you require the tourte for a flanc instead of an entremet, you must roll the paste oval instead of round, and make a long band of puff paste, which lay round the rim, carefully joining it at each end, by cutting one end slantwise under, and the other over, making it of the same thickness; egg the band upon the top, but do not let it run over the edges previous to baking.
No. 1153. Tourte d’Entremet À la Marmelade de Pommes.
Prepare a sheet of paste upon a baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apple marmalade (No. 1389) spread it within an inch and a half of the edges all round, roll out a piece of the trimmings of puff paste very thin, from which cut about forty narrow bands, wet the edges of the paste, and string the bands tastefully over the marmalade, forming diamond shapes; have ready a band of puff paste as in the last, which place round the apples, pressing it closely to the bottom sheet, egg the top, and bake as in the last; when done shake sugar over the top, and glaze lightly with the salamander.
No. 1154. Tourte d’Entremet au Confiture.
Prepare a sheet of paste upon your baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apricot, greengage, or strawberry jam; roll out a very thin sheet of puff paste, wet the edges of the sheet, and cover over the jam, closing it down at the edges; trim it level, have ready a band of paste, as in the last, wet round, place the band round, press it close, then with a sharp-pointed knife make incisions upon the thin paste over the marmalade, cutting quite through, forming some fancy design, wet slightly, throw sugar over, egg the band upon the top, and bake as before.
No. 1155. Tartelettes pralinÉes aux Abricots.
Have ready buttered twelve or as many small tartelette pans as you may require, line each one with a piece of puff paste cut with a cutter of the same size as the pans, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of stiff flour and water paste) in each, and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done take out the little balls, turn the tartelettes upside down, shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, shake sugar in the interior, which also glaze with the salamander; you have previously chopped two ounces of almonds very fine, which put into a basin, with two ounces of sugar, and mix well with the white of an egg, spread a little upon the bottom of each tartelette, shake a little sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry; when ready to serve put an apricot in each, stewed as for the vol-au-vent d’abricots (No. 1142). They may be served salamandered very crisp upon both sides, omitting the almonds.
No. 1156. Tartelettes de PÊches.
Make your tartelettes as in the last and fill with peaches dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1141).
No. 1157. Tartelettes aux Cerises.
Proceed as before, filling them when baked with cherries dressed as for the vol-au-vent (No. 1144).
No. 1158. Tartelettes aux Groseilles vertes.
Make the tartelettes as before, have ready three pints of young green gooseberries, which put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar and half a wineglassful of water, place them over a sharp fire, moving them round occasionally till done, which you may ascertain by their shrivelled appearance, if too much done they will become quite brown, put them in a basin and leave them till quite cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.
No. 1159. Tartelettes of Greengages.
Prepare your tartelettes as before and fill with greengages prepared as directed for the vol-au-vent (No. 1143).
No. 1160. Tartelettes aux Fraises.
Prepare the tartelettes as before, pick a fine pottle of strawberries, which put into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, shake them well together, fill the tartelettes and serve.
No. 1161. Tartelettes de Pommes.
Prepare the tartelettes as usual, and have ready prepared ten apples (golden pippins) cut each one in halves, take out the cores and peel them neatly, put the juice of a lemon in your sugar-pan into which throw them as you peel them; when they are all done add half a pound of lump sugar and a little thin lemon-peel cut in strips, stew them gently till tender and leave them to get cold in their syrup, then fill the tartelettes, half an apple in each, mix a little apricot marmalade with the syrup, pour a little over each and serve.
No. 1162. Tartelettes de Poires.
Prepare the tartelettes as before, then have eight or ten small ripe pears, cut them in halves and proceed precisely as with the apples in the last, serve the same.
No. 1163. Tartelettes of Cranberries.
Prepare the tartelettes as directed, then have ready three pints of cranberries which you have drained and stewed over a sharp fire, with one pound of lump sugar and two ounces of green angelica cut in fillets, until the syrup becomes very thick, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.
The cranberries sold in London I believe are from America; they are tolerably good, but nothing to compare to those I have used in Shropshire and Wales; they grow in that part of the country in meadows close to the water; upon my first going there I was quite unacquainted with the merit of this beautiful fruit, but soon perceived that very beautiful entremets might be made from them, besides plain tarts, for which they were daily used; their bitterness and peculiar wild flavour rendering them very palatable and wholesome. I have thought proper to make this remark, knowing that so few people are aware of their merit and that so many are actually spoilt for want of gathering.
No. 1164. Tartelettes d’Oranges.
Prepare the tartelettes as described, have eight oranges, peel and cut off the white pith and divide each orange into twelve pieces, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, reduce till rather thick, then throw in half the oranges, let them boil one minute, take them out, lay them upon a dish, and put in the remainder, stew one minute as before, reduce the syrup again, and when nearly cold pour it over the oranges; when ready fill your tartelettes and serve.
No. 1165. Fauchonettes À la Vanille.
Line eighteen tartelette pans with puff paste as for tartelettes, but do not work up the edges so high, have also a crÈme made in the following manner: put a pint of milk into a stewpan and when it boils put in a stick of vanille, and reduce the milk to half, in another stewpan have the yolks of three eggs, with an ounce and a half of powdered sugar and one of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the vanille, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens; when cold fill the tartelettes and bake them nicely in a moderate oven, when baked and cold have ready a meringue mixture of four eggs, (see No. 1218,) a teaspoonful of which lay upon each, spreading it quite flat with a knife, make a ring of seven small button meringues round each upon the top with a larger one in the centre, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven till of a light brown colour and the meringue quite crisp; to serve, dress them pyramidically upon your dish.
No. 1166. Dauphines.
Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, and place a small piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, which cover with a custard made as directed in the last, bake them in a moderate oven; when cold prepare a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which form a very high pyramid upon the top of each tartelette, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry, keeping them very white; serve cold, dressed round upon a napkin.
No. 1167. Tartelettes À la Pompadour.
Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, have also eighteen pieces of brioche paste (No. 1321), each the size of a walnut, roll them out to the thickness of a penny-piece, keeping them round, place a piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, wet the paste, fold it over the marmalade to form a ball, and turn them over into your tartelettes, wet the tops, turn them over on some rough pounded sugar, place them upon a baking-sheet, bake in a moderate oven, dress pyramidically upon a napkin and serve quite hot.
No. 1168. Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange.
Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and bake them in a moderate oven.
No. 1169. Mirlitons aux Amandes.
Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied orange-flowers.
No. 1170. Mirlitons au Citron.
Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the orange-flowers.
No. 1171. Petits Vol-au-vents À la Chantilly.
Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers; when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with the cream over and serve.
No. 1172. Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots.
Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled au cassÉ (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar, in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it, which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots, peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.
No. 1173. Petits Vol-au-vents À la GelÉe mousseuse.
Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if not in season, a brandied cherry.
No. 1174. Petits Puits aux Pistachios
Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green) and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.
No. 1175. Gateau fourrÉ À la CrÈme.
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece, sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon a border of apple marmalade.
No. 1176. Gateau fourrÉ au Confiture.
Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last, but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.
No. 1177. Gateau fourrÉ, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes.
Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the sweatmeats before mentioned.
No. 1178. Gateau fourrÉ Anglo-FranÇais.
Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done; you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino, which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau fourrÉ À la crÈme, substituting the above preparation for the frangipane.
No. 1179. Petits Gateaux fourrÉs au Confiture.
Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and give them a bad appearance.
No. 1180. Petits Gateaux fourrÉs (round).
Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter, lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177) in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over, press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter, with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above directions, they may be made smaller if required.
No. 1181. Petits Gateaux fourrÉs aux Amandes.
Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold serve as before.
No. 1182. Petits Gateaux fourrÉs MeringuÉ.
Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect. You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with jellies as before, they may be made oval also.
No. 1183. Patisserie d’Amandes À la CondÉ.
Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required, spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.
No. 1184. Turban de CondÉ À la Rhubarbe.
Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb (very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches, greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be served in this manner.
No. 1185. Petits Gateaux d’Abricots.
Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square, in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of that form, and covering one over the other.
No. 1186. Petits Gateaux renversÉs.
Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.
No. 1187. Petites BouchÉes À la PatissiÈre.
Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top; then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter, taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of preserve.
No. 1188. Eventail aux Cerises.
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1144).
No. 1189. Petits Gateaux À la Royale.
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.
There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.
No. 1190. A Flan of Puff Paste.
Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out, letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out, empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould, sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of making fresh.
No. 1191. Flan de Pommes À la Portugaise.
Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pÂte fine, No. 1136), roll it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with pÂte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples (golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either hot or cold.
No. 1192. Flan de Poires.
Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.
Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for vol-au-vents.
No. 1193. Flanc À la CrÈme pralinÉe.
Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295), in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar all over, and glaze with the salamander.
No. 1194. PÂtÉ À Choux.
Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course be made.
No. 1195. Petits Choux À la CrÈme.
Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits choux, and serve as in the last.
No. 1196. Petits Choux aux Amandes.
Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183); put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold fill and serve as before.
No. 1197. Petits Choux À la Comtesse.
Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before, and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.
No. 1198. Petits Choux en Gimblettes.
Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece; egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require to be filled.
No. 1199. Petits Pains À la CrÈmiÈre.
Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve dressed in pyramid, and very hot.
No. 1200. Madeline au vin de Ports.
Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.
They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the sauce over.
No. 1201. Genoises.
Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt, half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg (melted but not hot); butter a sautÉ-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing (No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of preserves.
No. 1202. Genoises fourÉes.
Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sautÉ-pan; when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when well made very excellent.
No, 1203. Genoises À l’Orange.
Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament it as before.
No. 1204. Genoises aux Pistaches.
Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No. 1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them, their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with marmalade when ready to serve.
No. 1205. Darioles.
Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pÂte À foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg, beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven, when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.
No. 1206. Biscatelles.
Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a sautÉ-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.
No. 1207. Gateaux À l’Indienne.
Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white; when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.
No. 1208. Gauffres aux Pistaches.
Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet, curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife before putting them upon the spoon.
No. 1209. Gauffres À l’Allemande
Are made the same as the above, but omitting the almonds and pistachios, serve them filled with whipped cream, to which you have added a little powdered sugar and orange-flower-water, if in season a fine strawberry may be placed at each end, dress them in pyramid upon a napkin.
No. 1210. Gauffres À la Vanille
Are made the same as the gauffres aux pistaches, but adding half a stick of vanilla well pounded and sifted with the sugar, and half a glass of brandy instead of the orange-flower-water. A variety of beautiful entremets may be made with gauffres, according to taste.
No. 1211. Gauffres À la Flamande.
Put half a pound of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by degrees, working it at first upon one side of the basin, until you have mixed the whole into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried German yeast, half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm water; when dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk and a little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter, previously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in a warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would have risen about two or three inches turn it round five or six times with a wooden spoon to bring it down; let remain half an hour longer and it is ready for use.
Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, turning them occasionally, to get hot by degrees, wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over the interior with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the paste, close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally) for a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured sufficiently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; when finished have half a pound of lump sugar, well pounded, with a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon and passed through a fine sieve, dip the gauffres into it on both sides and serve very hot dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.
No. 1212. Gauffres À la Casalesry.
Put half a pound of fresh butter into a middling-sized basin (having previously pressed it in a cloth to extract the buttermilk), work it round with your hand until forming a whitish cream, then add half a pound of sifted flour and a piece of yeast of the size of a walnut; work well together, set it in a warm closet half an hour, or until well risen, take it out, add half a pint of whipped cream (taking care that the mixture is not too hot, or it would turn sour) and a little salt, put the gauffre irons upon the fire, and proceed as in the last; when done roll them in powdered cinnamon and sugar mixed together, and send very hot to table; either of the two last may be served either as an entremet or a remove.
No. 1213. Red Nougat.
Blanch and skin three quarters of a pound of almonds, which cut into small fillets, and place them in the oven until lightly browned; put six ounces of powdered sugar in a copper pan with a little essence of cochineal, stir round over the fire till melted, and when it commences boiling stir in the almonds and turn it out upon a buttered baking-sheet, spread out thin, and before getting too crisp cut it into pieces (with a knife) two inches in length and three quarters of an inch in breadth; dress them in crown upon your dish and fill the interior with a pint of whipped cream, in which you have put a tablespoonful of sugar and one of orange-flower-water; strawberries may be added if in season. Nougat aux pistaches is made by omitting the cochineal, and when spread out upon the baking-sheet sprinkling chopped pistachios over whilst very hot, and proceeding as in the last.
No. 1214. Small Cups of Nougat.
Prepare the nougat as before, then have a number of dariole or tartelette moulds, oil the interior slightly, and when the mixture is half cold put a piece the size of a walnut in each, which press to the shape of the mould, with your finger and thumb; when cold take them out and serve filled with cream as before. Vases and large cups may also be made with it, by having moulds and proceeding as for the smaller ones; but for the larger moulds or shapes, which require more time to fill, to prevent the mixture getting cold, keep the pan upon a trivet at the mouth of the oven, taking it by pieces as you require.
No. 1215. Nougat d’Abricot.
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll twelve times, leaving it about the thickness of half-a-crown piece, place it upon a baking-sheet, and spread apricot marmalade over a quarter an inch in thickness, then have ready, finely chopped and well dried, three quarters of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, which put into a basin with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix with the whites of four eggs, spread it all over the marmalade and bake in a hot oven a nice colour; when cold cut it into pieces of any shape you please, and dress in crown upon a napkin to serve. Brioche paste (No. 1321) would be better than puff paste for the above, but they are very excellent either way.
No. 1216. ChÂtaignes Croquantes.
Roast sixty chesnuts, take them from the husks, and when cold pound them well, adding a little white of egg to prevent their oiling; then add half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs, mix all well together; lay the paste upon a marble slab, roll it out into small pieces two inches long, place them on a baking-sheet, mark with a knife upon the top, and bake in a sharp oven, when done dip them into sugar boiled to au casse (No. 1379), when cold they are ready to serve.
No. 1217. Amandes Croquantes.
Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, which put in a slow oven to dry, when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of lump sugar, pound very fine and pass them through a wire sieve upon a marble slab, rub in three quarters of a pound of butter, a little chopped rind of lemon, and the yolks of three eggs, form the paste thus made, into small pieces of any shape you please, which bake and dip in sugar as in the last.
No. 1218. Meringues À la Cuilliere.
Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of ten eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them into a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinge; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water.
No. 1219. Turban de Meringues.
Make a meringue mixture as above of five eggs and half a pound of sugar, which lay out on white paper, but with a teaspoon, of the size and shape of pheasants’ eggs; sift sugar over, which shake off directly, place them upon boards and bake in a slacker oven than directed for the last, keeping them quite white, and drying them quite through; when cold wet the paper underneath, take off the meringues, dry them a little more, have ready, and baked a round board of pÂte d’office (No. 1137), seven inches in diameter, have also ready a little white iceing (No. 1383) mixed rather stiff, form a ring of it round the rim of the board, upon which dress the meringues, placing a piece of the iceing the size of a pea at the bottom of each to fix them one to the other, place it to dry, have a little iceing thinner than the last, dip one end of the remaining meringues into it, and then into chopped pistachios (very green), with them form another row upon the first, keeping the green end uppermost, dry it till set, and when ready to serve fill the interior with a whipped cream as in the last, and sprinkle chopped pistachios over, or fill them with any of the crÈmes bavaroises; the meringues may likewise be laid out with a paper cornet.
No. 1220. Turban de Meringues glacÉ.
Make a turban as directed in the last, then soak two ounces of citron (candied), two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, in one glass of maresquino, mix the whole in a freezing-pot with a pint and a half of vanilla ice (No. 1381), fill the turban, at the moment of serving, with it.
No. 1221. Petits Meringues aux Pistaches.
Make a meringue mixture of five whites of eggs and half a pound of sugar as before, lay out upon papers with a teaspoon; have ready two ounces of chopped pistachios, which sprinkle over, then sift a little sugar over, which shake off immediately, place them upon boards, bake and empty as directed for meringues À la cuillerÉe (No. 1218), fill them with whipped cream in which you have introduced a few chopped pistachios, stick two together and serve; these are intended more for garniture than to be served as a dish by themselves.
No. 1222. Champignons en surprise.
Make a meringue mixture of ten eggs as before, put one half of the mixture into a paper horn, (or cornet,) cut a piece of the bottom with a knife to leave a hole as large as the tip of your little finger, press the mixture through it upon sheets of white paper, into pieces as large round as a five-shilling piece, sprinkle them over with grated chocolate and powdered sugar mixed, put the remainder of the mixture into another paper horn, cut a hole at the bottom smaller than in the last, and press the mixture through it upon paper, into pieces an inch and a half in length, and thicker at one end than the other, commencing at the small end to form the stalk of a mushroom, sift a little sugar over, place them upon a board, with those you first laid out, put in a slow oven, when the smaller ones are perfectly dried take them off the papers, stick two together, dip the thick end in white of egg and then into grated chocolate, take out the larger ones, remove them from the paper by wetting it at the back, then stick the smaller ones into them, thus forming mushrooms, dry in the screen and use them for garniture where directed.
Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin, with the yolks of six eggs, beat them well together with a wooden spoon, melt two ounces of fresh butter, which add to the mixture, with six ounces of flour and the whites of the six eggs beat very stiff, stir it till well mixed, but not more than is required, butter a sautÉ-pan lightly, put some finely powdered sugar into it, shake all over the pan and turn out that which does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture, have a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds cut into thin fillets, lay them upon the top and sift sugar over, bake in a moderate oven of a light brown colour; when done take it out of the sautÉ-pan, and when cold cut it in pieces of a diamond shape three inches in length and two in breadth and serve dressed in pyramid.
No. 1224. Biscuit manquÉ au Rhum.
Put half a pound of powdered sugar in a basin, with three quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, (melted,) two glasses of old Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded, (with the sugar,) and a little salt; mix the whole together, with the yolks of six and two whole eggs, then add the whites of the six eggs whipped very stiff, stirring them in very lightly, have ready a large square paper box, butter the interior well and pour in the mixture; bake in a moderate oven; when nearly done egg over the top with a paste-brush and cover with a preparation of almonds made thus: blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, which cut into thin fillets, dry them in a hot closet, put them into a basin, with three ounces of sugar and mix with the whites of two eggs, place the manquÉ again in the oven until done and the almonds become slightly browned, then take it from the oven and when cold cut in diamonds or any other shapes your fancy may direct. They do not require to be more than an inch in thickness, and rum may be exchanged for any other flavour if desired.
No. 1225. Calf’s Foot Jelly, flavoured as required.
Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet, which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen, where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it, whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly, and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.
Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner, where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces, the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then ready for use as directed in the following receipts.
To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.
I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.
No. 1226. GelÉe de Dantzic aux Fraises.
Take a quart of jelly clarified as above, with which mix four glasses of eau de vie de Dantzic, reserving the gold leaves by letting them set at the bottom of the glass, mix four tablespoonfuls of the jelly with it, have a cylinder mould and place it in ice, put the jelly with the leaves first in, so that the gold will show at the top of the jelly when turned out, place a fine strawberry in each knob of the mould, then add a little more jelly, when nearly set add more strawberries, sticking them to the sides of the mould and arranging them as tastefully as possible, fill up by degrees or you would have all the strawberries swimming at the top; when finished and quite set it is ready to turn out, which is done by dipping the mould in warm water; wipe quickly with a cloth, shake the mould gently, turn over carefully upon your dish, and draw the mould off quite straight. Two glasses of pale brandy may advantageously be added to the jelly.
No. 1227. GelÉe de Maresquin aux PÊches.
Take a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four glasses of the best Italian maresquino, have four nice ripe peaches, but perfectly sound, which cut into quarters, bury a cylinder mould in ice, place a little jelly at the bottom, then arrange some of the pieces of peaches, which cover with jelly; when nearly set arrange the remainder, and fill up the mould, proceeding as in the last. The fruit will impart its own peculiar flavour to the jelly.
No. 1228. GelÉe de Noyeau aux Abricots.
Flavour a quart of jelly clarified as before with four glasses of the best noyeau, (here I must remark that if the liquors used are not of the best quality it would render the jelly cloudy and very unsightly,) have six nice ripe deep-coloured apricots, which cut in quarters and arrange tastefully in your mould, proceeding as in the two preceding articles. Observe in arranging the fruit in your mould that each piece is separate, so as to leave some parts of the jelly transparent, otherwise it would appear very heavy and ungraceful.
No. 1229. GelÉe MacÉdoine aux Fruits de belle saison.
Prepare a quart of jelly as directed (No. 1225) putting the gold leaves in the mould, which you have previously surrounded with ice, have ready twelve very fresh strawberries, twelve black grapes, twelve very white cherries, and one peach or apricot cut in six, put six strawberries at the bottom, with a piece of peach between each, cover with jelly, when set place in another row of fruit, proceeding thus until full, but not putting the fruit too close together and variegating it as much as possible, or if in winter and the above fruit cannot be obtained prepare three small apples, (golden pippins,) which cut into quarters and put into a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and one ounce of powdered sugar, set them over a slow fire to stew till tender, then put them out on a plate to cool, peel and take all the pith from two small oranges, which cut in quarters, have also a few brandied cherries and some fine black and green grapes; arrange the whole tastefully in your mould, filling with jelly as before directed.
No. 1230. Bordure de Poires en gelÉe.
Cut twelve middling-sized ripe pears in halves, take out the cores, peel neatly, and throw them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons and half a pound of lump sugar, let stew rather quickly till tender, but not to break, put them upon a dish till cold, have a cylinder mould (but not too deep) upon the ice, have a quart of jelly flavoured with four glasses of any liquor, put a little at the bottom of the mould half an inch in depth when set, dress your pears round in a border, (but the reverse way, so that they become right when the mould is turned over,) fill the mould up with the jelly when quite cold and upon the point of setting, and when wanted turn it out as before, and fill up the centre with red whipped jelly. Apricots or peaches cut in halves may be dressed the same, or apples.
No. 1231. GelÉe au Rhum.
Have a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four wineglasses of old Jamaica rum, colour a little with some essence of cochineal, pour it into your mould without any fruit. This is better appreciated by a party of gentlemen, and should not be introduced where there are ladies; by keeping the jelly a little stiffer you may introduce more rum.
No. 1232. GelÉe Mousseuse À l’Eau de Vie.
Put a pint and a half of jelly in a stewpan upon the ice, add four glasses of cognac brandy, whip it until very light and upon the point of setting, when pour in your mould, it will be quite white; when ready to serve turn it out as before directed. If wanted clear, proceed as for gelÉe au rhum.
No. 1233. GelÉe demie chaude froide marbrÉe.
Flavour a quart of jelly with three glasses of maresquino, have ready also a pint of the preparation (crÈme au maresquin, No. 1251), nearly set in a basin, dip in three apricots cut in quarters, which put in a plate upon the ice till set, have also some quarters of peaches, which also dip into the cream, when set commence filling your mould with the jelly, placing a few fine strawberries at the bottom, then some of the fruit enveloped, filling with the jelly as before directed, and variegating it as much as possible with black grapes, strawberries, and the enveloped fruit. This is quite a new idea, it not only looks well but likewise cuts and eats beautiful.
No. 1234. GelÉe fouettÉe aux Fruits.
Put a pint and a half of jelly upon the ice in a stewpan, to which add three glasses of maresquino, whip the jelly to a white froth, and when upon the point of setting stir in very carefully about thirty strawberries, not too ripe, with a few cherries, apricots in quarters, or peaches; fill your mould and when set turn out as usual. A jelly for whipping requires to be rather stiffer than when clear, if not stiff enough add a little clarified isinglass.
No. 1235. GelÉe À l’Ananas.
Procure a middling-sized pineapple, peel it carefully, cut in halves lengthwise, then into slices, (rather thin,) have a quart of jelly in which you have infused the rind of the pineapple, previously well washed, place a little at the bottom of the mould, and when nearly set lay a border of the pineapple over one upon another, forming a ring, cover with more jelly, let it nearly set, then add another border of the pineapples, proceeding thus until the mould is filled.
No. 1236. Orange Jelly.
Have ten fine Malta oranges and three or four lemons, peel off the rind of eight very finely, which put into a basin, clarify a pound of sugar (No. 1379), pass through a napkin into the basin (over the rind) whilst hot, and cover with a sheet of foolscap paper, twisting it tightly over the edge, and pricking a small hole in the centre with a pin to give a little vent; cut the oranges and lemons in halves, squeeze out all the juice through a hair sieve into another basin, and proceed to clarify it as follows: wash well two sheets of white blotting-paper in a basin of water, let well drain upon a sieve, bruise it in a mortar until forming quite a purÉe, take from the mortar and put it into the basin with the juice, which mix well with it; let remain a quarter of an hour to settle, then pour it into your jelly bag, pouring what runs through back again into the bag until becoming as clear as spring water, strain the syrup again through a napkin, add the clarified juice, two ounces of clarified isinglass (No. 1372), and a few drops of liquid cochineal, to give an orange tint; mix all well together, and pour into a mould surrounded with ice, when set and ready to serve, turn out as before directed.
Lemon Jelly is made precisely as directed for the orange jelly, using all lemon-juice instead of orange, rather more syrup, and omitting the cochineal. Some persons mix a handful of white sand well washed with the juice which will assist the clarification, but the idea would be objectionable to many.
No. 1237. Orange Jelly, in the skins of the Oranges.
Procure twelve of the best-formed oranges, and with a round vegetable cutter cut a hole of the size of a shilling at the stalk of each, then with the handle of a teaspoon empty all the pulp from them and clear away as much of the pith as possible, throw them into cold water to harden and retake their original shapes, make a jelly with the pulps as in the last, drain the skins of the oranges, stand them upon ice and fill with the jelly, dress in pyramid when set, or cut them in quarters for garnishing. Should you make a hole in clearing out the skins, place a small piece of butter over previous to placing them upon ice, which take off at the time of serving.
No. 1238. GelÉe de Fraises.
Pick two pounds of fresh strawberries, which put in a basin, with the juice of two lemons, (over them) and a quart of clarified boiling syrup; cover with paper, let remain twelve hours, colour a little deeper with the essence of cochineal, pour into your jelly bag, and when it has all run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass cold, but not set; mix well and pour it into your mould.
No. 1239. GelÉe d’Abricots.
Take the stones from eighteen ripe fleshy apricots, cut into thin slices and put them into a basin with the juice of three lemons; have ready boiling a pint and a half of clarified syrup, pour it over the apricots, cover the basin with paper, and let them remain until quite cold, then drain the syrup through a napkin, add an ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, (half cold,) mix well in, and pour into your mould. The remainder of the apricot would make a very good marmalade.
No. 1240. GelÉe À la Bacchante.
Have two pounds of very fine green grapes, which pound in a mortar, with a few leaves of spinach well washed, add half a gill of water, pass the juice from them through a jelly bag, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, yielding a pint and a half of syrup, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, both nearly cold, add a pint of champagne, stir well in, pour the jelly in your mould and leave it upon ice till set; when ready turn it out and serve.
No. 1241. GelÉe de Fleurs d’Orange au Vin de Champagne.
Clarify three quarters of a pound of sugar, and when boiling add two ounces of candied orange-flowers, take off the fire, cover over closely, and let remain till cold, then strain it through a napkin, when all has run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass, (cold but not set,) and nearly a pint of champagne, mix altogether and pour it into your mould.
No. 1242. Pain de Fruit À la Russe.
Pick a pint of fine red currants, half the quantity of raspberries, a pound and a half of cherries, (stoned,) and nearly a pottle of strawberries, place a few of them lightly at the bottom of the mould, then have ready a quart of strawberry jelly (No. 1238), in which dissolve a pound of powdered sugar; when well dissolved pour some of it in the mould containing the fruit, which place upon the ice, let it nearly set, then put more fruit with more jelly, proceeding in like manner until the mould is full; when set dip it into warm water and turn carefully into your dish.
No. 1243. CrÈme À la Vanille.
Put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon; in another stewpan have a pint of milk, in which put an ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning, throw in two sticks of vanilla, take it from the fire, put a cover upon the stewpan till three parts cold, then take out the vanilla, pour the milk in the other stewpan upon the eggs and sugar, mix well together, and stir over the fire until becoming a little thick and adhering to the back of the spoon, but do not let it boil, pass through a tammie into a round bowl; when cold set the bowl upon ice, add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino, keep stirring its contents, and when upon the point of setting add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped, mix well together and pouring into your mould, keep it upon ice till wanted, and when ready to serve dip into warm water, wipe with a cloth, and turn it out upon your dish.
No. 1244. CrÈme aux Pistaches.
Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of very green pistachios, which pound well in a mortar, with six ounces of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon) and eight bitter almonds, have three quarters of a pint of milk boiling in a stewpan, into which put the above ingredients, with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass previously dissolved, boil a few minutes, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, pour the milk upon them and stir altogether over the fire till it thickens, then pour it into a bowl to cool, pound well in a mortar two or three good handfuls of spinach well washed, then place it in a strong cloth, which twist as tight as possible, thus squeezing all the juice out of it, which put into a small stewpan over the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, pour it on the back of a silk sieve, then place the bowl with the other ingredients upon the ice, finish your cream as in the last, but at the moment of adding your whipped cream, add also some of the spinach from the back of the sieve sufficient to give it a beautiful light green colour.
No. 1245. CrÈme À l’Ananas.
Take the half of a middling-sized pineapple, peel it, and throw the rind into a stewpan containing a pint of boiling milk and an ounce of isinglass, cut the pineapple up into small strips and put them into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and a wineglassful of sherry or water, place on the fire and let it boil to a thick syrup, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, to which add the milk by degrees, stirring all the while, straining it through a sieve, place over the fire, keeping it stirred till thickening, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the syrup with the pineapples, leave it to cool, then place it upon ice, and finish as for the crÈme À la vanille.
No. 1246. CrÈme aux Amandes.
Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, which dry and pound well with six ounces of lump sugar, put it into a stewpan, with the yolks of four eggs, mix well together, then in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have put an ounce of isinglass, boil until reduced to three quarters of a pint, pass through a tammie, and pour over the other ingredients, which stir over the fire till it thickens, when pour into your bowl, let remain till cold, stirring occasionally to keep it smooth, add two glasses of noyeau, and finish as in the last.
No. 1247. CrÈme d’Orange.
Rub the rind of two oranges upon six ounces of lump sugar, which pound and put into a small preserving-pan, with the juice of four large oranges, let the sugar dissolve, boil over the fire till forming a thick syrup, boil nearly a pint of milk in a stewpan, with an ounce of isinglass ten minutes, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of five eggs, which place upon the fire, stirring until it thickens, but not boiling, pass it through a tammie, add the syrup from the orange, and finish as for the crÈme À la vanille.
No. 1248. CrÈme aux Fraises.
Prepare a cream as directed for crÈme À la vanille, and when ready to pour in your mould add half a pound of fresh gathered strawberries well picked, placing them here and there whilst putting it in the mould, and serve when ready.
No. 1249. CrÈme d’Abricots.
Take a dozen ripe apricots, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew them over a slow fire till tender, then rub them through a tammie with two wooden spoons, put rather more than half a pint of milk to boil, with an ounce and a half of isinglass, reduce to half a pint, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of four eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the apricots, and finish as before.
No. 1250. CrÈme au Ponche.
Boil an ounce of isinglass in three quarters of a pint of milk (five minutes), take the rind from two lemons as thin as possible, without any pith; directly the milk commences boiling throw it in, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs and four ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire till it thickens, pass through a tammie into a bowl, and when cold add three glasses of maresquino, one of rum, and a teaspoonful of arrack, place upon ice and finish as before; six liqueur glasses of milk punch added instead of the above liqueurs would be very excellent.
No. 1251. CrÈme au Maresquin.
Prepare a cream as for the crÈme À la vanille, only adding a quarter of an ounce more isinglass to the custard, and when cold mixing four glasses of maresquino with it.
No. 1252. CrÈme au Noyeau.
Proceed exactly as in the last, only substituting noyeau for maresquino.
No. 1253. CrÈme au CafÉ.
Put three ounces of the best (unroasted) Mocha coffee into a stewpan, keep tossing over a sharp fire till it becomes yellow, in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, throw your coffee into it, place the cover upon the stewpan and let stand till half cold, have the yolks of five eggs in another stewpan, with which mix four ounces of powdered sugar, then add the milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, and finish as before.
No. 1254. CrÈme au Caramel.
Put four ounces of powdered sugar in a stewpan, which stir over a slow fire till quite melted and beginning to tint, take it off the fire; in another stewpan have three quarters of a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, pour it upon the caramel, which stir occasionally until it is quite dissolved, pour into another stewpan with the yolks of five eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass through a tammie, and finish as before.
No. 1255. Bavaroise aux Fraises.
Pick two pounds of fine red strawberries, which put into a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar, let them remain half an hour, then rub them through a tammie, add an ounce of isinglass, previously dissolved in two wineglassfuls of water, boiled and passed through a tammie; set the whole upon the ice, stirring until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream well whipped, pour it into the mould, which keep upon the ice till set, and when wanted dip it into warm water, and turn out upon your dish.
No. 1256. Bavaroise aux Framboises.
Proceed exactly as for the strawberries in the last, using a pound and a quarter of raspberries and six ounces of currants; or either of the above bavaroises may be made by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, moving it over the fire until boiling, when strain it through a silk sieve mixing the juice with the dissolved isinglass, and finish as before; should either of the above be deficient in colour a little essence of cochineal may be used.
No. 1257. Bavaroise aux Abricots.
Take twelve ripe fleshy apricots, cut them in halves, stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan with half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, stew them till quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, put them in a basin when cold, stir it upon the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour into your mould.
No. 1258. Bavaroise aux Poires.
Procure a dozen and a half of middling-sized pears, peel and cut out the cores, slice them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons (the rind of one of which also add, cut very thin), twenty bitter almonds blanched, and chopped very fine, half a pound of lump sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass, place the pan upon a moderate fire, moving the contents occasionally, stew until quite tender, when rub them through a tammie, and finish as in the last.
No. 1259. Bavaroise aux Pommes.
Peel and cut in quarters twenty small pippin apples, which put into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry, half a pound of sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass; proceed precisely as in the last article, adding a glass of maresquino, if approved of, or noyeau.
No. 1260. Bavaroise aux Pistaches.
Blanch and skin four ounces of pistachios with twelve bitter almonds, and pound them well with six ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon; when well pounded throw it into three quarters of a pint of boiling milk with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, boil altogether five minutes, then pour it into a bowl or basin, stand upon the ice, keep stirring, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream whipped and some of the preparation of spinach, as for the crÈme aux pistaches (No. 1244); pour it into your mould, which must be previously lightly oiled, and twenty chopped pistachios shook over the interior, until adhering to the sides.
No. 1261. Bavaroise À l’Ananas.
Procure a middlingsized pineapple, peel and cut it in slices, which put into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, half an ounce of isinglass, and a wineglassful of water, stew until quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, set it on the ice, keeping it stirred; when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, mix well, and pour it into your mould.
No. 1262. Bavaroise au Maresquin.
Put one ounce and a half of isinglass in a stewpan, with half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and four ounces of lump sugar, boil altogether, reducing one half, skim and pass it through a tammie into a bowl; when cold add four glasses of maresquino, and two of brandy, place it on the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour it into your mould.
No. 1263. Bavaroise au Ponche.
Boil one ounce of isinglass in a stewpan with the juice of four and the rind of two lemons cut very thin, half a pound of sugar, and nearly half a pint of water, reduce one half, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl or basin, and when cold add two glasses of maresquino, two of rum, and half a one of arrack, place it upon the ice and finish as in the last, or use the milk punch as directed for crÈme au ponche.
I must here observe, that although I have stated as nearly as possible the quantity of isinglass to be used in the foregoing recipes, yet there are so many causes which may make it either too much or insufficient, such as the difference in quality of isinglass, or the difference in the quantity of juice extracted from the various fruits, which would make it impossible to be exact; so that the surest method is to try a little first upon the ice before adding the whipped cream, if too stiff, a little more milk, juice, or liqueur (whatever it may be you are making) must be added, but if not stiff enough, a little more clarified isinglass, which is the method adopted by most practitioners.
No. 1264. Charlotte Russe.
Line the inside of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits (No. 1361), cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette, and standing them upright round the sides, with a piece cut off the top and bottom of each, and trimmed at the sides to make them stand quite close, stand the mould upon ice, then have ready a crÈme au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added a good glass of cognac brandy, with which you fill the interior, when set and at the time of serving, turn over upon a dish and lift off the mould.
No. 1265. Charlotte Prussienne.
Put a little jelly (flavoured with a little brandy and coloured of a beautiful crimson, with a little essence of cochineal) into a plain round mould, covering the bottom half an inch in depth; place it upon the ice, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits, and fill with a bavaroise au maresquin (No. 1262), place it upon ice till set, and when ready to serve dip the bottom of the mould very quickly in warm water, and turn it over upon your dish.
No. 1266. Charlotte Russe en mosaÏque.
Have a plain round mould, at the bottom of which lay some grapes (white and black), strawberries, pieces of apples (stewed), pears, or any fruit in season; cover the bottom, variegating them as much as possible to imitate mosaic, set the mould upon ice, and pour in a little clear jelly, but only sufficient to just cover them; when set line the side of the mould with the biscuits, and fill as for charlotte russe, only introducing angelica and stewed apples, cut in large dice, with the cream.
No. 1267. Charlotte Russe aux Liqueurs.
Line a mould as directed in either of the three last articles, and fill with a cream made as for the crÈme au maresquin (No. 1251), only using one glass of curaÇoa, one of noyeau, and one of maresquino, instead of all maresquino.
No. 1268. Charlotte aux Fraises.
Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a bad effect.
No. 1269. Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison.
Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, apples, or pears, cut into very tasteful shapes, stewed in a little syrup, and drained upon the back of a hair sieve), by dipping them into jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice, when well set, terminate as in the last.
No. 1270. Charlotte de Pommes au Beurre.
For the few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling in purÉe, but in case they cannot be obtained other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced in stewing.
Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter, and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould and the thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, which stand upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples, which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round-bottomed preserving-pan with six ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould (having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve.
No. 1271. Charlotte de Pommes À la Confiture.
Proceed as in the last, but when the apples are ready mix a few spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them and fill the mould; place it in the oven, and serve as before.
No. 1272. Chartreuse de Pommes.
Procure twenty small russet apples, cut off the top and bottom of each, and with a long vegetable cutter cut out as many pieces as possible of the thickness of a quill, and about an inch in length, have in a stewpan upon the fire a thick syrup made from half a pound of sugar, with the juice of a lemon and half a pint of water; when well reduced throw in half your pieces of apples, stew them until tender, but not to break, take them out and lay them upon a hair sieve, put the other half of the apples into the syrup, stew them until nearly done, then add a little essence of cochineal to give them a crimson colour, stew a minute or so more, then take them out, lay them on the sieve till cold, lightly oil a plain round mould, cut some pieces of green angelica, with which form a star at the bottom of the mould, and a border round the bottom, then with the white pieces of apples make a row round the sides, standing each piece upon one end slantingly, one leaning upon the other, above which place a row of the red pieces in the same manner, and so on alternately till you reach the top; you have previously peeled a dozen and a half of apples, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and a small glass of rum, place them over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until forming a thick marmalade, put them in a basin until cold, fill your chartreuse, and when ready to serve turn it out upon your dish, garnish with fillets of red currant jelly, and pour a little white syrup reserved from the apples over.
No. 1273. SuÉdoise de Pommes.
This very grotesque entremet was never a favorite of mine; any kind of ornaments, such as cascades, ruins, arches, &c., may be made from them, and ornamented with various fruits, but they look very heavy, and from the apples being so much boiled and reduced become very unpalatable, they being nothing more than apples boiled in syrup to a very firm marmalade; I shall not here enter into the various modes of dressing it, but substitute other entremets, which, if not so ornamental, are at any rate much more palatable.
No. 1274. Pain de Pommes À la Russe.
Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to au casse (No. 1379), have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly oiled, shake it well down and let it remain until quite cold, when turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers.
No. 1275. Croquettes de Pommes.
Prepare some apples as in the above, (or the remains of one previously served,) when cold form it into the shape of pears, have three eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece into it, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them over with a knife, then again dip them into the eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a light brown colour in very hot lard, dress them upon a napkin in pyramid, and serve with sifted sugar flavoured with orange over them.
No. 1276. Pommes au Riz.
Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before it is tender add a little more milk, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick, when put it upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design your fancy may dictate. Pommes au riz may be served hot as well as cold.
No. 1277. Poires au Riz.
Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons. Stew them till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.
No. 1278. Abricots au Riz.
Proceed exactly as in the last, only passing two dozen of apricots cut in halves, with the kernels from the stones previously blanched and skinned, in the syrup instead of pears, dress them upon the dish precisely the same.
No. 1279. Pommes au Riz en Timbale.
Line a plain round mould with pÂte fine (No. 1136), having previously buttered it, the paste must not be thicker than a shilling, then line the interior of the paste with rice dressed as for pommes au riz, placing eight apples in the centre, likewise dressed as for pommes au riz, cover another sheet of paste over, and put in a hot oven until the paste is quite done; when three parts cold turn out upon your dish, mask it over with apricot marmalade, and decorate it with dried cherries and blanched pistachios, according to taste; do not serve until quite cold. Apricots and pears may also be used; this entremet may also be served hot.
No. 1280. Pommes À la Trianon.
Put four ounces of ground rice in a stewpan, with a pint and a quarter of milk and two ounces of butter, stir until boiling, then add the rind of a lemon cut very thin, let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is done and becomes rather thick, when take out the lemon-peel and add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, stir again over the fire until the eggs are set, and put it out upon a dish to get cold, then turn twelve golden pippin apples, taking off the rind without leaving the mark of your knife, having previously with a long vegetable cutter taken out the cores, rub the apples with lemon-juice and stew them in a thick syrup (made with three quarters of a pound of sugar boiled with half a pint of water and the juice of a lemon), stew them until tender, but keep them whole, peel and quarter three oranges, which (after having taken out the apples) just give a boil up in the syrup, then dress the rice in pyramid in the centre of your dish, surrounded with the apples interspersed with the quarters of oranges, and pour the syrup over when ready to serve.
No. 1281. Pommes MeringuÉes.
Line a small raised pie-mould, three inches in height and eight in diameter, with pÂte fine (No. 1136), about a quarter of an inch in thickness, or if no mould raise a crust with the hands of pÂte a dresser, fill it with bran or flour, and bake in a moderate oven; when done empty it and have ready some apples dressed as for charlotte de pommes (No. 1270), or dressed in syrup as in the last, with which fill the croustade, then make a meringue preparation (No. 1218), of five eggs, which lay over the top, smoothing it nicely, and ornamenting it with some of the mixture, by piping it with a paper funnel according to your taste, sift a little sugar over, and place it in a very slow oven till it becomes crisp, and serve when ready either hot or cold.
No. 1282. Pommes À la Vestale.
Make a pyramid of rice (upon a dish) dressed as for pommes au riz (No. 1276), peel and cut eight russet apples in slices and put them into a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew till quite tender and put them into a basin to cool, then cut nine small apples, (golden pippins) in halves, to which give the shape of cups, which stew in a thick syrup until nearly tender, but not to break, then place the apples upon the pyramid, make eighteen small tartelettes (No. 1155) of thin gum paste, small enough to fix in each cup of apple, and dress them in pyramid upon the others; when ready to serve cover the whole with thick syrup, pour a teaspoonful of brandy into each tartelette, with some in the dish, which set on fire at the moment of going to table, it has a very pleasing effect.
No. 1283. Pommes au Beurre.
Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in quarters and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready to serve.
No. 1284. Miroton de Pommes.
Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sautÉ-pan, spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; when done dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.
No. 1285. Beignets de Pommes.
Make a paste as follows: put a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with which mix a good half pint of water, mix it with a wooden spoon until very smooth, then have an ounce and a half of butter melted in a stewpan, which stir into it, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, which also stir in gently, then have six russet apples, which cut in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel them and take out the cores with a round cutter, dip each piece separately into the batter, when completely but thinly enveloped drop them into a stewpan of hot lard, to fry them well, the lard should not at first be too hot, but become hotter as they proceed in cooking, proceeding thus till you have fried the whole of them a nice light brown colour, drain them upon a cloth, then lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze them with the salamander, serve dressed in a double crown upon a napkin.
No. 1286. Beignets d’Oranges.
Prepare a paste or batter as in the last, then peel eight middling-sized oranges, quarter them, without breaking the thin skin that divides them, and take off all the white pith, dip each piece singly into the batter, and then into a stewpan of hot lard; fry of a nice light colour, drain upon a napkin, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze with the salamander, and serve them dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.
The fruit for any description of fritters may be soaked in any liqueur for half an hour before they are required, but it often prevents their being well fried.
No. 1287. Beignets de PÊches.
Skin and cut in halves twelve ripe but firm peaches, take out the stones and put the peaches into a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, toss them together lightly, but not to break the peaches; have a batter prepared as in the last, in which dip each piece of peach separately, fry them in lard, not too hot, glaze and serve precisely as in the last.
No. 1288. Beignets d’Abricots.
Gut twelve or fourteen apricots in halves, put them into a basin with a little powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as for beignets de pÊches.
No. 1289. Croquettes de Riz.
Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan and let simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of eight eggs (mix well), stir them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light brown colour, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.
No. 1290. Croquettes de CrÈme au Riz.
Proceed precisely as in the last, only using ground rice instead of whole, they are finished and served exactly the same.
No. 1291. Croquettes de Macaroni.
Blanch six ounces of macaroni in half a gallon of boiling water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes de riz.
No. 1292. Croquettes de Vermicelle.
Put six ounces of vermicelli in a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, boil until very tender and becoming thick, keeping it stirred with a spoon, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of a Seville orange has been rubbed, and two ounces of butter, stir well in, add the yolks of eight eggs, and proceed as directed in the last article.
Croquettes of semolina may also be made the same way.
No. 1298. CrÈme Frite À la PatissiÈre.
Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower-water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sautÉ-pan, previously oiled, and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for croquettes, fry them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.
No. 1294. Beignets SoufflÉs À la Vanille.
Place half a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling put in a fresh stick of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan, let it infuse ten minutes, then take out the vanilla and add rather more than an ounce of butter, place it again upon the fire, and when boiling stir in quickly six ounces of flour; dry the paste well over the fire, keeping it from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, then take it off and stir in six whole eggs gradually, and six ounces of powdered sugar; have ready a stewpan of hot lard, into which drop the above mixture in pieces about the size of small walnuts, fry a nice colour, and when quite done drain them upon a cloth, and serve upon a napkin with sifted sugar over; they may also be flavoured with orange-flower-water.
No. 1295. Frangipane.
Put six whole eggs in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add a pint of milk or cream, and keep stirring over the fire until it becomes thick and upon the point of boiling; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of an orange or lemon has been rubbed, two ounces of crushed ratafias, and a small glass of brandy (mix well); put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when getting a little brown stir it into the frangipane, which is then ready for use; it may be flavoured also with vanilla or any of the flavours used for such purposes.
No. 1296. Omelettes À la CÉlestine.
Put a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of flour together in a basin, which well mix with four eggs till smooth, then add nearly half a pint of milk; have ready an omelette-pan, in which put a small piece of butter, when the pan is quite hot pour in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, which let spread all over the pan, when quite set and of a light brown colour underneath, turn it over upon the bottom of a stewpan-lid, previously buttered, and again from that upon a cloth, proceeding thus with the whole mixture, then spread a teaspoonful of apricot marmalade upon each; have ready some frangipane as directed in the last, quite hot, lay a piece the size of a small sausage upon each, and fold them up neatly, trim the ends, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze lightly with the salamander, dress them in crown, or in pyramid upon your dish, and serve very hot.
No. 1297. Pannequets À la Confiture.
Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side turn it over, then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the marmalade, being then the common pancake.
