ENTREES OF GAME. No. 848. Filets de LiEvre sauce reforme.

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Procure three good-sized but young hares, when skinned lay them on a table and pass a knife down the back-bone, from the shoulder to the leg, keeping it close to the ribs till you have extracted the fillet, when done lay the fillets on a board the skin side downwards, and with a thin knife cut off the whole of the skin, by pressing your hand upon the fillet and drawing the knife along from the thin end to the thick; cut each fillet in halves, beat them lightly, trim them of a nice shape, and lard them neatly, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the fillets over, add three onions in slices with a bunch of parsley, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves, put in a little broth, but not to cover them, place the lid on the stewpan and place them in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, take them out, drain them a minute on a cloth, trim nicely, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce reforme (No. 35) over, previously placing a thin piece of toasted bread the same size as the fillets between each.

No. 849. Filets de LiÈvre piquÉ sauce poivrade.

Proceed exactly as in the last, dress them in crown without the pieces of toast, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) over, dressed in the same manner, they may be served with a sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 850. Filets de LiÈvre piquÉ À la Bourguignote.

Proceed and dress your fillets exactly as before, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put a little pounded sugar in a stewpan, which place over the fire, when it melts and turns yellowish put in a pat of butter and your onions, keep moving them over a slow fire till they become rather brown, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six tablespoonfuls of consommÉ, place it at the corner of the stove, and skim well, let simmer till the onions are done; then take them out with a colander spoon and place them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the onions, have twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon in diamonds the size of the onions, put them in the sauce, which make hot, but not to boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 851. Filets de LiÈvre piquÉ, marinÉ en demi-glace.

Prepare and lard twelve pieces of fillets as usual, have ready a quart of marinade, see filet de boeuf À la Bohemienne (No. 426), and put them into it for three days; when wanted dry them on a cloth, butter a sautÉ-pan, lay in the fillets, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, glaze and salamander a light brown, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, then pour as much of the butter off from the sautÉ-pan as possible, and put eight spoonfuls of the marinade and a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into it, reduce over the fire, keeping it stirred till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a small piece of glaze and a teaspoonful of currant jelly; sauce over and serve.

No. 852. Escalopes de LiÈvre À la Chasseur.

Fillet three hares as before and cut each fillet into four escalopes in a slanting direction; beat them into an oval shape, put an ounce of butter in a deep sautÉ-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots; when the butter is melted lay in the escalopes, season them with a little pepper and salt, and place them on a sharp fire; when half done turn them over, be careful not to do them too much; when done dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, pour off the butter, then put a glass of port wine in the sautÉ-pan, with fifteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), a little salt, and sugar, reduce it three minutes, keeping it stirred, sauce over and serve.

No. 853. Cotelettes de LiÈvre À la Dauphine.

Fillet two hares as before, and out of each fillet cut three cotelettes by cutting each fillet in halves, making one of the thin end and cutting the thick into two equal slices, thus making twelve pieces of the four fillets; beat them of an equal thickness, boil the rib-bones of one of the hares till all the flesh comes off, and stick a bone in each piece to imitate the bone of a cotelette, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but not too much done, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and sauce over with a sauce piquante (No. 27) in which you have introduced a few chopped olives.

No. 854. Turban de LiÈvre À la PÉronne.

Fillet one large hare and make six cotelettes out of the two fillets as in the last, egg and bread-crumb them with a little chopped ham mixed with the bread-crumbs, and fry in oil as before; you have previously made forcemeat of the legs as described (No. 123), with which make six large quenelles, poach, and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes alternately with the cotelettes; have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with two of tarragon vinegar and a piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, place over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce and eight spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add a little sugar and twenty small pickled onions; sauce over the quenelles, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

For boudins de liÈvre, or quenelles, proceed the same as for boudins or quenelles de volaille, only using forcemeat made from the legs of the hare instead of the forcemeat of fowl; and for jugged hare and civet de liÈvre, see Kitchen at Home. They may be made from the legs after you have taken the fillets for other purposes.

No. 855. Filets de Lapereau À la Valencienne.

For entrÉes the tame rabbits are the best, and most preferable; but the wild are very good and may be dressed in any of the following ways.

Take three or four young rabbits, skin and fillet them the same as the hares; if the fillets are sufficiently large cut each one in halves forming each piece in the shape of a small cotelette, beat them lightly and of equal thickness, place them in a buttered sautÉ-pan, season with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them over a moderate fire and when half done turn them; they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch, and must be kept quite white, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, put eighteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the sautÉ-pan, with ten of white stock, stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little pepper and salt if required, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of half a lemon; sauce over and serve.

No. 856. Filets de Lapereau À l’Ecarlate.

Fillet three rabbits and so cut the fillets as to have nine pieces, which cook as in the last, then cut nine slices of cooked ham of the same size and shape as the fillets, and make them hot in a little stock, dress them alternately with the fillets in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock in the sautÉ-pan, stir over the fire until nearly thick enough, then add twenty heads of blanched mushrooms and a little sugar, boil another minute, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream; sauce over the fillets, glaze the tongue and serve.

No. 857. Turban de Lapereau À la DouariÈre.

Fillet three good-sized rabbits and cut each fillet in halves, making twelve pieces, six of which lard neatly; dress the six plain as before, but the six larded ones must be braised like sweetbreads, and glazed, and salamander a good colour, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets alternately, (one larded and one plain,) in crown, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sautÉ-pan, with half a pint of consommÉ, boil and skim, add half a glass of sherry, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) and twenty small quenelles from forcemeat made with the legs of the rabbits, as described (No. 121); when hot, sauce over the plain fillets, glaze the larded ones, put all the quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 858. Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only dressing the six plain fillets on one side and the larded ones on the other instead of alternately, and add twelve dressed cockscombs and twelve blanched mushrooms to the garniture in the sauce; or they may be served with a blanquette made from the legs of the rabbits, previously braised, proceeding as described for blanquette de dinde (No. 791).

No. 859. Filets de Lapereau À la Musulmane.

Lard twelve pieces of fillets from three or four rabbits, braise them as you would sweetbreads; when done glaze and salamander of a light colour, and dress in crown as high as possible; you have boiled half a pound of good rice (No. 129), season it with a little salt, and mix four pats of butter and a pinch of saffron with it, dress it in pyramid in the centre of your dish, serve with a thin currie sauce (No. 46) round the fillets, and some separate in a boat; serve very hot.

No. 860. Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites racines.

Fillet three rabbits, cut each fillet in halves and shape them in the form of cotelettes, sticking a piece of the rib-bone of the rabbit in at the thin end, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil of a light brown colour, dress in crown, glaze them lightly, and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau (No. 692).

The legs and shoulders may be used for pies, curries, or fricassÉes, which I give in my Kitchen at Home.

No. 861. Lapereau sautÉ aux truffes.

Procure two nice young rabbits, which cut into twelve pieces, being two legs, two shoulders, and two nice pieces from the back of each; put four ounces of butter in a thick-bottomed sautÉ-pan; when melted lay in the pieces and proceed as directed for petits poulets sautÉ aux truffes (No. 820). Lapereau sautÉ aux champignons is done the same, using mushrooms instead of truffles, and lapereau sautÉ aux fines herbes, by using a sauce fines herbes (No. 26) instead of the brown sauce, and omitting both the truffles and mushrooms.

Cut up two rabbits precisely as above, and proceed as directed for poulet printanier À la Marengo (No. 829), dress them as high as possible on the dish, pyramidically, sauce over and serve.

No. 863. Rabbit Currie.

Cut up two rabbits as before, and cook them as for sautÉ aux truffes (No. 861); when done and nicely browned pour off as much butter as possible and pour a quart of currie sauce (No. 46) over, add twenty button onions, previously stewed in a little broth, and twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon cut in small diamonds, stand them over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred occasionally; then build the pieces up in your dish, sauce over and serve with rice (No. 129) in a separate dish; should the sauce be too thick moisten it with a drop of broth, but it requires to be thick enough to adhere to the rabbit.

No. 864. FricassÉe de Lapereau.

Cut up two young rabbits as before, and put them two hours in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan just covered with clear water, add two onions, one carrot, a bunch of parsley, two cloves, and a little salt, boil half an hour at the corner of the stove, and skim well, take out the pieces and pass the stock through a cloth, trim each piece of rabbit nicely, and put it in another stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, then mix one ounce of flour with them, pour the stock over and add fifty peeled button onions, stir round gently until boiling, then draw it to the corner of the fire and let simmer till the rabbit is very tender, then take them out, with the onions, and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the rabbit and onions, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir it in gently, place it over the fire but do not let it boil, dress the rabbit in your dish and sauce over; mushrooms may be added, and the onions ought to be kept as whole as possible.

No. 865. Faisans au veloutÉ de Gibier.

Roast two small young pheasants in vegetables as directed for the Removes, let them get cold, then cut off neatly the two wings, two legs, and two pieces from the breasts of each, which will make twelve very nice pieces, take off the skin and place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock and six spoonfuls of veloutÉ (No. 6), put them in the bain marie to warm gently, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and the backs and trimmings of the pheasants cut up very small, reduce till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, pour off the stock from the pieces of pheasants, place a tammie over the stewpan, over which hold a colander, pour the sauce through the colander, and then squeeze it through the tammie, add a little sugar and a little cream, place the stewpan over the fire but do not let its contents boil, dress the pieces of pheasants in pyramid, placing a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish to keep them in their place; sauce over and serve.

No. 866. Faisans À la purÉe de Gibier.

Cut up two small pheasants as above, dress them in pyramid on your dish and serve with a sauce À la purÉe de gibier (No. 59) over, have about fifty very small croutons of bread, diamond shape, and fried in oil, which sprinkle over the last thing before serving.

No. 867. Filets de Faisans À la Comte de Brabant.

Fillet two full-grown young pheasants as you would a fowl, lard and braise them exactly the same, have half boiled in water sixty very fine Brussels sprouts, drain them in a colander and put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, season with a little pepper and salt, add a pint of good stock and stew them over a moderate fire till the stock is reduced to glaze, take out the sprouts, squeeze them together between two dishes, and dress them as a perfect pyramid in the centre of your dish, glaze and salamander the fillets nicely, and dress a fillet on each side with a thin slice of the bacon at each corner, place a quenelle at the top, and sauce round with the sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60); serve immediately.

No. 868. Filets de Faisans piquÉ aux lÉgumes.

Lard and braise six fillets from three pheasants as above, have a fine fresh cucumber, cut six pieces from it of the same size as the fillets, which stew in a little stock in which you have put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender but not too much done drain them on a cloth; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and pieces of cucumber alternately in crown; have ready a small jardiniÈre sauce (No. 100) to which you have added a few blanched mushrooms, put the vegetables in the centre with a piece of boiled (or a small) cauliflower on the top, sauce round, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 869. Turban de Faisans en salmi.

Roast two pheasants in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut them into quarters, that is, the four breasts with the wings and the legs with a piece of the back-bone, beat and trim them lightly, cut off the pinion from the wings, and make the breasts and legs nearly of the same shape, place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock, put the lid on the stewpan and set in the bain marie to get hot, make a border of forcemeat (see ris de veau À la Turque No. 673); when done place it in the centre of your dish and dress the pieces in crown upon it, sauce over with a sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60) in which you have put four large truffles in slices, or twenty button mushrooms; serve very hot.

No. 870. Filets de Faisans À la Marquise.

Fillet four young pheasants, lard and braise four of the fillets, (as for the filets aux lÉgumes), egg the other four over with a paste-brush and throw them into a plate in which you have chopped ham and bread-crumbs mixed, cover them well, beat gently with a knife, and fry a light brown in a little clarified butter, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish and dress the fillets alternately upon it; you have previously prepared a sauce veloutÉ de gibier (No. 58), rather more than a pint, add twenty very white dressed cockscombs, when hot sauce round and garniture in the centre; glaze your fillets and serve; a spoonful of whipped cream would also be a great improvement added to the sauce when finished.

No. 871. Filets de Faisans À la Maintenon.

Prepare eight small or four large fillets divided into two separate slices, put them in a sautÉ-pan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, place them over a sharp fire, sautÉ them very underdone, and lay them on a cloth, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sautÉ-pan, fry them till turning yellow, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, keeping it stirred, lay in the fillets to warm, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of paper each cut in the shape of a heart, and large enough to fold a fillet in, place a fillet in each with the sauce equally divided amongst them, fold the papers over, twisting them up at the edges, and place them on the gridiron to broil over a slow fire; when done dress in crown on your dish leaving them in the papers, and serve with a little plain gravy.

After having used the fillets of pheasants one day the legs may be used the next, by roasting in vegetables and trimming them nicely; serve either À la Brabant (No. 867), or en salmi (No. 869); but the legs of large pheasants being so stringy will not make a very delicate entrÉe, and it is much better to convert them into a sauce À la purÉe de gibier (No. 59), soup, (No. 175), or forcemeat (No. 123).

No. 872. Turban de Quenelles de Faisans.

Proceed exactly as for the quenelles de volaille, only using a forcemeat made from the flesh of pheasants instead of fowl, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce veloutÉ de gibier (No. 58), purÉe de gibier (No. 59), or sauce fumÉe de gibier, either of which may be garnished with cockscombs, truffles, or mushrooms, as directed for the entrÉes of pheasants.

Boudins de faisans are served the same way only shaping them as directed for boudins de volaille À la Richelieu (No. 838), with which sauce they may also be served.

No. 873. Grouse À la Commodore.

Prepare two young but full-grown grouse, roast one of them underdone, and make forcemeat (No. 123) of the other; when the roasted one is cold cut it into eight pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back, and two pieces of the breast; cover each piece all over with the forcemeat the sixth of an inch in thickness, egg each piece over and place them in a buttered sautÉ-pan, just cover them with a little white stock and boil gently ten minutes, lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, build the pieces in pyramid, and have ready the following sauce: chop the bone of the grouse very small and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of consommÉ free from salt, an onion, and a little celery, with a bunch of parsley and two cloves, boil gently half an hour, pass the stock through a cloth into a stewpan, reduce to a very thin glaze, then mix a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root with half a glassful of wine and a little cold broth; pour it into the gravy, keeping it stirred, season a little more if required, and when boiling sauce over and serve.

No. 874. Filets de Grouse À la Paoli.

Roast four young grouse in vegetables as described for the Removes, take out the breasts or fillets carefully, have ready a pound of forcemeat (No. 123), with which cover each fillet nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness all over, put them in a buttered sautÉ-pan, just covered with a little white stock, boil gently ten minutes and lay them on a cloth; have ready eight croutons or pieces of bread, the shape of the fillets and the thickness of a crown-piece, fried in oil a light brown and very crisp, dress the fillets and croutons alternately in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, glaze the croutons, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), sprinkle a few chopped olives over, and serve very hot.

No. 875. Filets de Grouse À la ChanceliÈre.

Fillet four young grouse, trim the fillets as directed for filet de poularde (No. 792), butter a sautÉ-pan with two ounces of butter, lay in your fillets, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place them on the fire, sautÉ underdone, pour off as much butter as possible, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); shake the sautÉ-pan round over the fire two minutes, take out the fillets, which dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; sauce over, put the fillets and quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 876. Salmi de Grouse aux truffes.

Plain roast two grouse and cut each one up into eight neat pieces (whilst hot, as for À la commodore), place them in a stewpan, cover them with a thin brown sauce (No. 1), put the cover on the stewpan and place it in the bain marie till the pieces are hot, in another stewpan have a pint and a half of the sauce fumÉe de gibier, reduce it a third, then add six middling-sized truffles cut in thin slices, and a little sugar; have also six croutons or scippets of fried bread (as for À la Paoli), dress the pieces of grouse in pyramid on your dish, with the croutons well glazed resting upon them round the dish; sauce over and serve.

No. 877. Grouse À la Ailsa.

Roast two grouse, cut them into quarters, that is, the wings with the breasts, and the legs with the back-bone, pound the back and trimmings well in a mortar and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of the sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60), boil five minutes, then pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, season with a little salt and sugar if required, and add the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire till it becomes thickish but do not let it boil, then put in the pieces of grouse; when half cold dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce and sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) round.

No. 878. Turban de Quenelles de Grouse À la Moderne.

Make and poach twelve quenelles from a forcemeat of grouse (see No. 123), poach them as for quenelles de volaille (No. 831), dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60), have ready the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve.

Black cocks and gray hens being larger birds are generally used for roasting, but the gray hen if well kept may be dressed in any of the preceding ways; the ptarmigan also which makes its appearance in February, (a Swedish bird as well as Scotch,) may be used for the same purposes as grouse, the flavour is similar but not quite so good.

No. 879. Perdreaux À la SilÈne.

Procure three young partridges, pluck and draw them and cut each bird in halves, cut off each leg below the knuckle, break the part of the leg above the knuckle, make an incision in the thigh and turn the leg inside, break the back-bone (in three) the thigh-bone and the joint of the wing in each, place the six halves in a sautÉ-pan, in which you have put eight tablespoonfuls of oil, fry gently till three parts done, then egg, bread-crumb, and place them on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil them a good colour, and dress in crown upon your dish, then pour off the oil from the sautÉ-pan, add two glasses of port wine, a spoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1,) ten spoonfuls of consommÉ, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, finish with the juice of half a lemon, sauce round and serve, slightly glazing the partridges.

No. 880. Perdreaux grillÉs À la purÉe de Gibier.

Prepare and broil three partridges as in the last; you have previously roasted an old one and made a purÉe of it as directed (No. 59), dress the partridges in crown, glaze and serve with the purÉe round and in the centre.

No. 881. Perdreaux aux choux.

Procure two partridges trussed as for boiling, and lard them with fat bacon lengthwise up the breast; have ready two white-heart savoy cabbages, cut them in quarters and blanch them ten minutes in boiling water; drain them quite dry on a cloth, season well with white pepper and salt, cut off all the stalk and place them in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon; cover with a good white stock and place them over a slow fire to stew until the stock has reduced to a thin glaze and the cabbage is quite tender; you have roasted the two partridges, thrust them quite hot into the cabbage, and place the stewpan containing them in a bain marie to keep hot for one hour, or till ready for use, then drain and press the cabbage in a colander, saving the stock that comes from it; dress in a dome on your dish, take the skewers and strings from the birds and dress them upon the top with slices of the bacon round, broil three sausages, which cut in halves lengthwise and lay round at the bottom, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with twelve spoonfuls of stock from the cabbage, skim off all the fat, reduce to a demi-glace, sauce over and serve.

No. 882. Chartreuses de Perdreaux.

Proceed as directed in the Flancs (Nos. 604, 605, and 606), but using a round mould not too large for the dish instead of oval moulds as there directed.

No. 883. Filets de Perdreaux aux petits lÉgumes.

Roast six young partridges underdone and when nearly cold cut out the breasts or fillets as neatly as possible, place them in a sautÉ-pan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut and a little white stock, warm them and reduce the stock to glaze, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared some carrots, turnips, and button onions as for sauce À la jardiniÈre (No. 100), pass them over the fire in a little butter and sugar, cover them with a pint of the sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60), six spoonfuls of consommÉ, and the glaze from the sautÉ-pan; simmer at the corner of the stove till the vegetables are quite done, skim it well, dress the vegetables in the centre, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 884. Filets de Perdreaux À la Florentine.

Roast six partridges and fillet them as in the last, warm and dress them precisely the same, then have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, then add twelve blanched mushrooms, twelve dressed cockscombs, and twelve very small French preserved truffles; add a little sugar, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve.

No. 885. Cotelettes de Perdreaux À la Bacchante.

Procure six young partridges, fillet them, take a rib-bone and stick in the small end of each fillet, beat them lightly with a thin knife, take off the skin, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry of a light brown colour in salad oil, but not too much done, dress them in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, have ready a pint of the sauce veloutÉ de gibier (No. 58), which you have made from the legs and bones of the birds, which put in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock (No. 138), reduce, and when it adheres to the back of the spoon add fifty Smyrna raisins previously soaked in hot water two hours, and the juice of ten large Portugal grapes, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve. I have served this curious entrÉe with English grapes whole in it, and very good it is, being refreshing to the palate, but a person requires to be used to them before they can appreciate.

No. 886. Cotelettes de Perdreaux À la DouariÈre.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as above, fry them in oil and dress them the same on your dish; have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, have forty small quenelles made from forcemeat from the legs, (see No. 123), the quenelles must be made with very small egg-spoons, as directed for the quenelles (No. 120); when poached lay them on a cloth to drain, put them into the sauce; when hot dress the quenelles in the centre; sauce over and serve.

No. 887. Cotelettes de Perdreaux À la Duc de Chartres.

Prepare and dress twelve cotelettes or fillets as before, dress them on a dish and have ready the following sauce: have fifty scoops of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, keeping them moved, then add a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), place it on the corner of the stove, let simmer, keeping it skimmed till the turnips are done, finish with a little orange-juice, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 888. Epigramme de Perdreaux À l’essence de Gibier.

Fillet six young partridges, lard six of the fillets, and braise them as for filets de faisans À la Brabant (No. 867), place the other six in a sautÉ-pan well buttered, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sautÉ them gently over a moderate fire, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the six larded fillets first, then the six plain ones to form a crown; glaze nicely, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier and serve (see Sauce, No. 61).

No. 889. Epigramme de Perdreaux aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, merely adding thirty heads of blanched mushrooms to the sauce and a little sugar.

No. 890. Turban des Filets de Perdreaux À la PÉrigord.

Fillet three young partridges, make likewise half a pound of forcemeat from the legs as directed (No. 123), from which make six quenelles with two tablespoons (No. 831); sautÉ your fillets as in the last, plain, then poach your quenelles, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the fillets in crown, alternately with the quenelles, put three parts of a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, add four large French truffles chopped very fine, with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 891. Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux À la Berri.

Make a pound of forcemeat from the flesh of one or two partridges as directed (No. 123), and with two tablespoons make twelve large quenelles, poach them in white stock (see quenelles de volaille, No. 831) and lay them on a clean cloth to drain a moment, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the quenelles in crown, then put a pint of the sauce veloutÉ de gibier (No. 58) in a stewpan, with half the quantity of white stock, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over, sprinkle a few pistachios chopped very fine upon the top of each quenelle and serve.

No. 892. Filets de Canetons Sauvage À l’essence.

Wild ducks are best after frosty weather, the middling-sized ones are the best for entrÉes.

Roast four young ones underdone well wrapped up in vegetables, when done cut the fillets out neatly, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared the following sauce: put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a glass of port wine, the back-bones of two of the ducks and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and ten spoonfuls of consommÉ, simmer a few minutes, take out the bones, skim, reduce it fast till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, when hot sauce over and serve.

No. 893. Filets de Canetons Sauvage À la Syrienne.

Prepare six fillets from three wild ducks as in the last, have six croutons of fried bread (or scippets), chop the livers of the ducks up very fine, mix with a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a small pat of butter, spread some upon each of the croutons, thicker in the middle than at the sides; set them ten minutes in a warm oven and salamander, dress them alternately with the fillets upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, sauce the same as in the last, with the addition of twenty mild stoned olives just before serving.

No. 894. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au jus d’orange.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as in the last, dress upon your dish and put them into the hot closet to keep hot with a cover over them; chop up the legs and back very fine and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry and a bunch of parsley, boil five minutes, then add a pint of consommÉe, boil ten minutes, skim and pass through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to half glaze, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a little sugar, and half the yellow rind of a large orange, cut in fine strips and blanch five minutes, boil altogether a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of juice from the orange, sauce over and serve.

No. 895. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au fumÉe de Gibier.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown on your dish and serve with a sauce fumÉe de gibier over, made from the legs and bones of the ducks as described (No. 60).

No. 896. Salmi de Canetons Sauvage aux truffes.

Proceed exactly as for salmi de grouse (No. 876), only cutting up two wild ducks in neat pieces instead of the grouse, but the wild ducks require to be more underdone.

No. 897. Filets de Canetons Sauvage À la purÉe de Grouse.

Roast and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce À la purÉe de grouse (No. 59) over.

Widgeons are rather smaller than the wild ducks, but are dressed exactly the same; care should be taken in roasting any kind of water-fowl that it should be rather underdone, and if there is a necessity for warming them in sauce when cut up for entrÉes, care should be taken that they do not boil in it, for it would give the sauce a greasy appearance, and cause the fillets to eat tough and altogether very unpalatable.

No. 898. Turban de Filets de Sarcelles À la Moderne.

Teal are much smaller than either of the two last, but of the same species, though more delicate and excellent for entrÉes.

Roast eight teal twenty minutes in vegetables, cut out the fillets, which must be underdone with the gravy in them, have ready half a pound of game forcemeat (No 123), when cold cover each of the fillets very thinly with it, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, set them in a very hot oven for ten minutes till the forcemeat is cooked, sauce over with a sauce fumÉe de gibier (No. 60) and serve.

No. 899. Turban de Sarcelles À la Toulouse.

Roast and fillet eight teal as in the last, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, then put eight spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60), eight of consommÉ, and eight of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stewpan, boil them together a few minutes, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and serve.

No. 900. Sarcelles au jus d’orange.

Roast six teal as before, cut them in halves, chop off the pinions of the wings, beat them a little and dress in crown, sauce over with au jus d’orange (No. 17) and serve.

Teal may be dressed in any way as directed for the wild ducks.

No. 901. Sarcelles À la BateliÈre.

Bone four teal by cutting the skin through down the back, separating the skin on each side of it until you have cleared it, lay the bird open, take out the back-bone, and with a knife you will find no difficulty in taking out all the rest; half fill them with forcemeat (No. 120) and sew them up with packthread, then put them into a stewpan with three glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, half a pound of lean uncooked ham, two onions, one head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a little carrot, turnip, two cloves, and a blade of mace; put the cover on the stewpan and place it in a moderate oven for an hour, try with a larding-needle, and if tender they are done; lay them on a cloth to drain, make three croutons of bread each in the shape of a cockscomb, but a great deal thicker and larger, put three of the teal at the bottom of the dish, and stand a crouton (nicely fried) between each to form six points, place the remaining teal upon the top, and have ready the following sauce: strain the stock the teal was cooked in through a cloth into another stewpan, skim off all the fat, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little cream sauce over and serve.

No. 902. Sarcelles À la macÉdoine de lÉgumes.

Roast four teal in vegetables, cut them in halves, dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a white sauce macÉdoine de lÉgumes (No. 98) in the centre.

No. 903. Sarcelles À la purÉe de champignons.

Proceed as in the last, but serve with a purÉe of mushrooms (No. 54) in the centre.

No. 904. Filets de BÉcasses À la Lucullus.

Roast six woodcocks underdone, take the fillets out carefully, have ready half a pound of very white forcemeat of chicken (No. 122), cover each fillet all over about the eighth of an inch in thickness, egg them over when done and place them in a buttered sautÉ-pan, cover them with white stock, and simmer ten minutes, drain them on a cloth and dress in crown upon a small border of toasted bread; you have previously pounded all the flesh from the legs with the trail in a mortar, pass through a sieve, and put it in a stewpan with ten spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60) made from the bones, boil until thick, keeping it stirred, then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken, and dress in the middle of the dish as high as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 905. Filets de BÉcasses À la Talleyrand.

Roast four woodcocks, fillet them, cover each fillet with forcemeat as in the last, poach them the same, have eight croutons of bread the same size as the fillets, and the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, pound the trails from the woodcocks in a mortar, season them lightly, and mix them with the yolk of one egg, spread it upon the croutons (which you have previously fried), give them the shape of a dome, put them ten minutes in the oven, salamander a light colour, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round, then the croutons, put a pint of game sauce (No. 60) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommÉ, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add six middling-sized truffles chopped very fine with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 906. Filets de BÉcasses À l’ImpÉrial.

Roast five woodcocks, fillet as usual, surround each fillet with the forcemeat, and poach as before, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes, and place a fine dressed cockscomb warmed in a little stock between each, sauce over with a sauce veloutÉ de gibier (No. 58) and serve.

No. 907. Turban de BÉcasses aux champignons.

Roast five woodcocks, cut them in halves, and dress them in crown, breasts upwards, upon a border of mashed potatoes; put a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it, then add forty very fine blanched mushrooms, with two spoonfuls of thin liquor, boil two minutes, then add a little salt, sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and two pats of butter, take it off the fire, shake it round till the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 908. Salmi de BÉcasses.

Roast three woodcocks underdone, and when cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, and the breasts; chop the trails from the interior very fine and spread them upon six croutons of fried bread in the shape of fillets, place them in the oven three minutes, and salamander lightly; make a game sauce with the bones as directed (No. 60), when you have reduced it to a good consistency, put in the pieces of woodcocks, cover the stewpan, stand it in the bain marie till they are quite hot, then build them up as high as possible on your dish, dress the croutons round, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms may be added to the sauce.

No. 909. Salmi de BÉcasses À la Joinville.

Roast two woodcocks underdone, cut them up and proceed exactly as in the last, make ten quenelles de gibier (No. 123), poach them, lay them on a cloth to drain, egg over with a paste-brush, and roll them in chopped ham and truffles, place them in a dish, which put in the hot closet with the cover over for half an hour, then put a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, dress the quenelles in crown with the woodcocks in the centre and over, as elevated as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier, dress the croutons round and serve.

No. 910. EntrÉe de BÉcasses À la Comtesse.

Roast your woodcocks in vegetables, separate the breasts from the legs, take off the flesh from the legs and pound it in a mortar with the trails, make a purÉe as for the filets À la Lucullus, then have ready a croustade of bread two inches high, rather oval, and fluted round, not too large for the dish, make an incision round the top a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry a nice colour, scoop out the top, place it on your dish, pour in the purÉe; you have kept the breasts hot in a stewpan in the bain marie, dress them over the purÉe with the points to meet in the centre, place two fine dressed cockscombs warmed in the sauce between each breast, and a quenelle upon the top, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 911. BÉcasses À la PÉrigord.

Roast three woodcocks nicely before a sharp fire, put a piece of toasted bread under them whilst roasting to catch the trails, when done cut the toast into three pieces, diamond shapes, place them in your dish and place the woodcocks upon them, their tails to meet in the centre of the dish, sauce over as for filets À la Talleyrand (No. 905) and serve.

No. 912. BÉcasses À l’essence.

Roast three woodcocks as in the last, dish them the same, and serve with a sauce À l’essence made from some bones or remains of woodcock, as directed (No. 60).

No. 913. BÉcasses À la FinanciÈre.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding ten blanched mushrooms, ten fine dressed cockscombs, ten small quenelles (No. 123) of game, and as many slices of truffles to the sauce.

No. 914. BÉcasses À la purÉe.

Roast three woodcocks as before, having previously roasted one, with which make a purÉe as directed (No. 59), sauce round and serve.

915. Snipes or BÉcassines.

Snipes may be dressed in any way as directed for the woodcocks, but being much smaller you cut them in halves instead of filleting them, dress round to form a crown, only you require more of them.

No. 916. Plovers.

Plovers, like other game, require to be kept a short time before they are cooked; they are dressed similar to woodcocks, although not quite so recherchÉ; when well dressed they are very delicious.

No. 917. Filets de Pluviers À la Marie Antoinette.

Roast eight plovers well wrapped up in thin slices of bacon, and tied up in paper; when done leave them to get cold in the bacon, then cut out the fillets as for woodcocks, and stick the pilon of the leg at the point of each fillet; let a piece of the bacon remain over each fillet, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry them a nice colour in salad oil; chop up the legs, bones, and trimmings of the birds, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion in slices, and a little raw ham minced; place it on the fire a couple of minutes, then add a pint and a half of good white stock; place it again on the fire, and let it simmer half an hour, skim, and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, then mix a little arrow-root with three spoonfuls of white stock and the juice of half a lemon, pour it into the sauce, keeping it stirred till boiling, dress the fillets in crown on a circle of mashed potatoes, sauce round, and serve very hot and crisp.

No. 918. Filets de Pluviers aux truffes.

Proceed with the fillets exactly as in the last, make ten croutons of bread, upon which put the trail, see woodcocks (No. 905), dress the fillets round alternately with the croutons, put a pint and a half of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of consommÉ in a stewpan, reduce to half, then add six middling-sized truffles in slices, and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 919. Filets de Pluviers aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using mushrooms instead of truffles.

No. 920. Fillets de Pluviers À la RÉgence.

Roast three plovers in bacon as before, and when done have three larded lambs’ sweetbreads nicely cooked, dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in a ring, put half a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, boil it a minute, then add twelve stoned French olives, season with a little sugar, sauce in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads, and serve.

No. 921. PÂtÉ chaud des Pluviers.

Make a paste as directed for pÂtÉ chaud, see Flancs (No. 618), build up a crust with the hand or in a small round mould to match your dish, then fillet twelve plovers, season them with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, cut some thin slices of fat bacon, with which line the interior of your crust, which has stood a good hour after building to get firm, lay the fillets round, placing a thin slice of fat bacon between each; the pÂtÉ must not be more than three inches in height when filled; add four spoonfuls of game sauce, and a few raw mushrooms, cover with a thin sheet of the paste, and ornament the exterior to your fancy, forming a lid with a round piece of puff paste (No. 1132); bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven, take off the lid and as much fat as possible from the top, add half a pint of game sauce (No. 60) quite hot, and serve either with or without the lid.

No. 922. Quails.

The climate of this country is far from being advantageous for these delicate birds, which migrate even from France at the end of the autumn; the quails in this country must be fed in confinement to fatten, before they are fit to be eaten, which destroys much of that beautiful flavour they possess in France, where they feed in their native vineyards.

No. 923. Cailles en macÉdoine de lÉgumes aux feuilles de vignes.

Truss eight quails, fold each one up in a vine-leaf, and then in a thin slice of bacon, run a skewer through them sideways, which tie upon the spit; then have some vegetables of all kinds, cut up in thin slices, which moisten with a little oil, have then some sheets of paper, upon which lay the vegetables, lay the quails on the spit over them, breasts downwards, cover well with the vegetables, fold the paper round, and tie them up; roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes before a sharp fire; you have prepared a border of vegetables as for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not to stand more than two inches in height; fill it with stewed cabbage and boiled French beans, turn it out on your dish, and dress the quails upon it, their tails towards the centre and their breasts outside; make a pyramid of boiled green peas on the top, and serve a white jardiniÈre sauce (No. 98) round.

No. 924. Cailles aux petits pois.

Proceed exactly as above with the quails, but make the stand entirely of green peas nicely boiled; have ready a pint of stewed peas (No. 1077) with which you have put the quails a few minutes, fill the centre with them, dress the quails round as above, and pour the remainder of the peas in the dish.

No. 925. Turban des Cailles À la FinanciÈre.

Roast eight quails in vegetables, but without the vine-leaf and bacon, make a border of forcemeat as for ris de veau À la Turque (No. 673), stand it in your dish, then make a ragout financiÈre (No. 50), but using game sauce instead of brown sauce; put your quails five minutes in the sauce, then dress them round on the border of forcemeat; garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 926. Turban des Cailles aux concombres.

Roast seven quails as before, cut each one in halves lengthwise, have also fourteen pieces of cucumbers the same size, stewed as No. 103, dress them alternately with the halves of quails upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce À la purÉe de concombres (No. 105) in the centre.

No. 927. Turban de Cailles À la purÉe de truffes.

Proceed as above, using ten quails instead of seven, and serving with a purÉe de truffes (No. 53), omit the cucumbers.

No. 928. Quails for Vol-au-vents, or PÂtÉ chaud.

Roast and cut them in halves if for vol-au-vents, put them in a white financiÈre sauce (No. 50), but if for pÂtÉs chauds, in a brown financiÈre twenty minutes before serving.

No. 929. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux À la Parisienne.

Procure six large pigeons, fillet and form them into cotelettes (see cotelettes de perdreaux, No. 885), stuff with a little forcemeat of fowl, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry a light yellow colour in oil; fry also twelve croutons of bread the size and shape of the cotelettes, and dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, to form a crown; sauce with a purÉe de concombres (No. 105) made brown instead of white, and serve, glazing the cotelettes lightly.

No. 930. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux À la FinanciÈre.

Proceed as in the last, only serving with a ragout À la financiÈre (No. 50) instead of the purÉe.

No. 931. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux aux pois verts.

Proceed as before, and serve with a pint of green peas, prepared as for cotelettes de mouton aux pois (No. 713). They may also be served with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51), Italienne (No. 30), jardiniÈre (No. 100), or sauce piquante (No. 27).

No. 932. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux À la Suliman.

Prepare the cotelettes as usual, season them well with chopped parsley, do. eschalots, and a little pepper and salt; procure a pig’s caul, cut into twelve pieces, in each of which fold a cotelette, place them in a sautÉ-pan, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but rather underdone; dress on a border of plain boiled rice, which you have made hot and seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and moistened with a piece of butter; serve very hot with a sauce À l’Indienne (No. 45) in the centre.

No. 933. Turban of Larks À la Parisienne.

Larks when in good order and fat are excellent for entrÉes. Bone eighteen fine ones with a penknife, lay a little forcemeat of game (No. 123), in the interior of each, with a few fillets of truffles, sew them with packthread, giving them their first shape as near as possible; cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, then lay in the larks, which again cover with sheets of fat bacon; add a few vegetables of each sort in slices, with a bunch of parsley, two glasses of Madeira wine, and half a pint of consommÉ; cover the stewpan, and place it in a moderate oven; when the birds feel tender they are done; take them out, and lay them on a dish; lay another dish over, and press them lightly till cold; pass the stock they were cooked in through a cloth into a stewpan, and skim off all the fat; use it with the bones of the larks to make a sauce (No. 60); when the sauce is of a proper consistence, add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), put it in the bain-marie to keep hot, pull all the packthread from the larks, and put them in a stewpan with a little consommÉ, warm them gently, have ready a border of forcemeat as for turban de cailles (No. 925), dress the larks in crown upon it, garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 934. Turban of Larks aux fines herbes.

Proceed with the larks as in the last, dress them on a border of forcemeat, and make the sauce the same; put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with half a one of oil, fry a light yellow colour, keeping them stirred; add one of parsley and two of chopped mushrooms, with which mix a quarter of one of flour, and twelve of the sauce; stir it over the fire twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very quickly; pour all over the larks, let them get cold, egg and bread-crumb over, and place them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, salamander a nice colour and sauce as in the last, omitting the quenelles, and pouring round instead of over; serve very hot.

No. 935. Turban of Larks aux quenelles.

Prepare eight larks as for À la Parisienne; have also prepared eight quenelles de gibier (No. 123) of the same size as the larks, dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce au fumÉe de gibier (No. 60) over.

No. 936. PÂtÉ Chaud de Mauviettes.

Prepare a crust as for the pÂtÉ chaud de pluviers, bone twenty-four larks, stuff them with forcemeat, but do not sew them, fold a slice of fat bacon round each, fill your pÂtÉ, and proceed exactly as in No. 623.

No. 937. PÂtÉ Chaud de Mauviettes gratinÉ.

Proceed as above, but when you have filled the pÂtÉ have half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix some chopped eschalots, do. parsley, and do. mushrooms; cover all over the larks, and again cover that with slices of fat bacon; bake an hour and a half; when done take off the lid, and the fat bacon, salamander the forcemeat a nice brown, and serve with some clear strong consommÉ (in which you have boiled the bones of the larks reduced to a demi-glaze), poured over.

No. 938. Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes.

Bone twelve or eighteen larks according to the size of your vol-au-vent, which you have previously made (see No. 1137), stuff them lightly, place a leg-bone in the breast of each, and form them in the shape of a pear; place them in a stewpan covered with slices of fat bacon, add a glass of sherry, with a little stock and a few vegetables, stew them gently one hour, then in another stewpan have a pint of sauce veloutÉ de gibier made as directed (No. 58) from the bones of the larks; take the larks out of the braise, drain them on a cloth, then put them into the sauce, with ten blanched mushrooms; when hot fill the vol-au-vent, and serve directly.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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