EntrÉes require to be small and elegant, as well as tasty; those which can be dressed in a crown like cotelettes, quenelles, or fillets of any description, are preferable, and more graceful, the garniture being placed in the centre; they are also more likely to be partaken of on account of the facility of serving, they being already carved, and much better than large pieces, such as whole fowls, vol-au-vents, or pÂtÉs chauds; where you require flancs, by all means reserve them for that purpose; but in a dinner of four entrÉes only, you require to send two entrÉes light, and two (what I term) solid, for the sake of variety, for if you had four light entrÉes upon the table without flancs, there would not appear sufficient dinner for the assembled guests, but the solid entrÉes may be made to look exceedingly light if carried to a height corresponding to their breadth; in dishing your entrÉes always allow an inch between the entrÉe and the rim of the dish, or if the dishes are large leave more space; the round entrÉe dishes are the most preferable, and should not be more than an inch and a half, or less than an inch in depth.

No. 635. Of Beef for EntrÉes.

Of all kinds of butchers’ meat, beef, though so useful in cooking, presents the least variation for entrÉes, the fillet being the only part that can be used to any advantage.

No. 636. Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf À la Reform.

Take out the fillet from beneath a rump of beef, take off all the fat, and cut it into slices (lengthwise) half an inch in thickness, beat them well with the cutlet-bat, which previously dip in water, then cut them into ten or twelve escalopes, the size and shape of fillets of chickens, lay each piece upon the table, season with pepper, salt, and a little chopped eschalots, cut two very thin slices of fat bacon to each escalope of beef, trim the bacon to the same size and shape, egg over the escalopes of beef, and stick a piece of the bacon upon each side of them, then egg all over and throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs mixed with chopped lean cooked ham; take them out, beat lightly with your knife, put a little oil in a sautÉ-pan, place it over a moderate fire, when quite hot put in your escalopes, fry a nice colour, and dress in crown upon a thin border of mashed potatoes, glaze nicely; sauce over with a sauce reforme (No. 35), and serve.

No. 637. Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf À la Gotha.

Cut twelve escalopes of beef as described in the last, scrape a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, melt it in a stewpan, and pass it through a sieve into a well-tinned sautÉ-pan, then lay in your escalopes, season them with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, and a little pepper and salt, pass them over the fire five minutes, and leave them to get cold in the sautÉ-pan; you have procured half a pound of pork sausage-meat, which place in a mortar, add to it three tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a little chopped parsley, also a little thyme, and one bay-leaf, chopped very fine, pound all well together and mix it with one egg; you have also procured a pig’s caul, cut it in twelve square pieces, each the size of a small hand, lay a little of the sausage-meat in the centre a quarter of an inch in thickness, upon which lay one of the escalopes, with the bacon and seasoning which is attached, cover with a little more of the sausage-meat and wrap them up in the caul, keeping the same shape as the pieces of beef and as flat as you can, proceed in like manner till they are all finished; put them in a cool place ten minutes, before serving put them over a good fire upon a gridiron, broil them a nice colour, dress them in a crown, fill the centre with some very white stewed choucroute (No. 116), and serve very hot.

No. 638. Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf À la Portugaise.

Prepare twelve escalopes of beef as before, and cook them precisely as in the last; have ready prepared two Portugal onions, which peel and blanch ten minutes in boiling water, then put them into a stewpan just large enough to contain them, cover with some white veal stock, add a bunch of parsley, and stew for an hour or more till quite tender, the smallest one will of course be the first done, take it off and keep it hot till the second one is done, then place the largest upon a piece of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, dress the escalopes around upon a small border of mashed potatoes, the points inclining inwards; dress the smaller onion upon the larger, and run a silver attelet through them both; pass the stock the onions were stewed in through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce it to a demi-glace, skim it well, add four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil altogether a minute, sauce over and serve.

No. 639. Escalopes de Filets de Boeuf À la Nemours.

Cut twenty-four escalopes of beef as before, but not half so thick, put four tablespoonfuls of forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin with two spoonfuls of chopped lean ham and the yolk of an egg, mix well together, then lay twelve of the escalopes of beef upon the table, put a little of the forcemeat on each, spread it all over with a knife, lay a very thin slice of cooked ham, fat and lean, upon each, spread a little more of the forcemeat over, then lay one of the other twelve escalopes upon each, season with a little pepper and salt; egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, take them out, beat lightly with your knife, and fry carefully in a sautÉ-pan with lard, dress them in a crown, glaze and have ready the following sauce: put an ounce of glaze in a sautÉ-pan, with two spoonfuls of broth and two of white sauce; when boiling, add half an ounce of very fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little lemon-juice (do not let it boil after you have put in the butter), sauce over and serve.

No. 640. Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf À l’Ostende.

Cut twenty escalopes as in the last article, then blanch and beard two or three dozen of Ostend or small oysters, and cut them up in small dice, then put half a teaspoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four tablespoonfuls of the juice of the oysters, and four of white sauce, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred, then add the oysters with a little essence of anchovies and cayenne pepper; place it again on the fire, and just as it begins to boil add the yolk of an egg, stir it well in and set it on a dish to cool, then lay ten of the escalopes upon the table, and spread a little of the above upon each, cover the ten other escalopes over them, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry as in the last; glaze, dress them in crown, and have ready the following sauce: put half an ounce of glaze in a stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of good stock and four of brown sauce, place it on the fire, and when it boils add half an ounce of anchovy butter, pour the sauce in the dish and serve.

No. 641. Escalopes de Filet de Boeuf piquÉ À la Chasseur.

Cut ten escalopes as described for À la reform, but rather thicker, lard each piece with bacon one inch long and narrow in proportion, but do not let the bacon show far out of the beef, then prepare two quarts of marinade (see filet de boeuf À la BohÉmienne, No. 426); lay your escalopes in a dish, and strain the marinade over, let them remain about twenty-four hours, take them out and lay them on a cloth, cover the bottom of the sautÉ-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the escalopes over, add a little of the liquor, but not sufficient to cover them; place a sheet of buttered paper over the sautÉ-pan and put them in a slow oven for half an hour or more, moisten them now and then with their stock, and when nearly done glaze and give them a little colour with the salamander, take them out, drain on a cloth, and dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes; have ready the following sauce: pass the stock they were cooked in through a tammie into a stewpan, boil it at the corner of the stove, skim off all the grease, add half a pint of brown sauce, and reduce it till it forms a good demi-glaze, then add a spoonful of currant jelly and a pat of butter, mix it quickly and sauce over, season a little more if required.

No. 642. Other EntrÉes of Fillets of Beef.

Take the best part of a fillet of beef, that is, about the middle, cut eighteen slices three quarters of inch in thickness, and beat them with your small chopper to the thickness of half an inch; cut each slice into an oval piece, cut also six oval pieces of suet from the kidney, about half the size, and not so thick as the fillet, dip the pieces of fillet in flour, previously seasoning them with pepper and salt; fry in clarified butter in a sautÉ-pan over a sharp fire, egg and bread-crumb the pieces of fat, fry them after the pieces of fillet, dress them alternately with the fillets in a crown, and serve with any of the following sauces:

Sauce piquante (No. 27),
Do. À l’Italienne (No. 30),
Do. tomate (No. 37),
Do. poivrade (No. 32),
Do. À la Hollandaise (No. 66),

or any of the sauces described for fillets of beef in the Removes, but of course preparing a smaller quantity; you can also convert the remains of a fillet of beef left from a remove into an entrÉe, by cutting it into slices and trimming it into oval pieces, not cutting the larded part; lay the pieces in a sautÉ-pan and just cover them with a good strong gravy, place a sheet of paper over, and put them in a moderate oven till they are quite hot through, take them out and serve with any of the sauces mentioned for fillets of beef in the Removes.

No. 643. Aiguillette de Langue de Boeuf en Papillote.

Boil a salt ox-tongue three hours, and when cold cut ten pieces from the best part, of the shape of a fillet of fowl, and half an inch in thickness, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a sautÉ-pan with one of oil, place the pan over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon; when the onions become tender (but not to change colour) pour off all the oil, add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and a pint of white sauce (No. 7), moisten with a little white stock, and reduce it till it becomes very thick, then add the pieces of tongue, toss over in the sauce, and leave them to get cold; have cut ten pieces of white paper in the shape of hearts, and large enough to fold a piece of the tongue in each, spread a little of the cold sauce upon the paper, then a slice of the tongue, which cover with more of the sauce, twist up the papers and broil them gradually ten minutes, serve them in the papers dressed in a crown, with a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under them; the tongues of any other animals, whether pickled or not, may be served in this manner, but of course the sauce must be more highly seasoned for the fresh tongue than for the pickled one.

No. 644. Turban de Langue de Boeuf À l’Ecarlate.

Boil two tongues separately, one pickled very red, and the other not pickled; cut six pieces from the thick part of each, about the size and shape of fillets of fowl, place the twelve pieces in a sautÉ-pan with an ounce of glaze and four tablespoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134), place over the fire, and let it remain till the pieces are quite hot, but do not let it boil; dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in crown, and prepare a sauce thus: place the sautÉ-pan again on the fire, and add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with four of consommÉ and a little sugar, boil a few minutes, pour over the tongue, glaze the red pieces, and serve.

No. 645. Turban de Langue de Boeuf À la JardiniÈre.

Proceed with the tongues precisely as in the last, and prepare the following sauce: cut about fifty scoops of carrots and fifty of turnips (with an iron scoop) a little larger than a pea, peel also forty very small onions, put them altogether in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar, pass them for ten minutes over a sharp fire, tossing them over now and then; add half a pint of good white stock, let them stew till tender and the broth is reduced to glaze, then turn them into the sautÉ-pan with the stock you warmed the tongue in, stir all round together, dress the vegetables in the centre, pour the glaze over the tongue, and serve; if the carrots are old they require to be stewed separately, as they take so much longer than the turnip or onion.

No. 646. Turban de Langue de Boeuf, sauce piquante.

Prepare twelve pieces of tongue as before, either pickled or fresh, dress them round upon your dish, put a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27) in the sautÉ-pan with a little sugar, boil altogether a minute, sauce over, and serve immediately; you can also serve dressed spinach or endive (Nos. 106 and 119) with it; if you serve an entrÉe of pickled tongue, it should be placed near an entrÉe of fowl or veal, or near to a remove of the same description, with which they eat much better, and for entrÉes of fresh tongue, season the sauces rather high.

No. 647. Queues de Boeuf aux navets au brun.

A few very nice entrÉes may be made of ox-tails; they certainly do not make handsome ones, but their delicate flavour supplies their deficiency in appearance.

For one entrÉe take two fine tails, cut them at the joints into pieces, or saw them into pieces an inch thick, which last way in my opinion is best, the pieces not being so clumsy; when cut put them into a stewpan, with three large onions, one carrot, one turnip, six cloves, a blade of mace, four bay-leaves, four sprigs of thyme, and a tablespoonful of salt; cover them with second stock or water, place the stewpan over the fire, and let it boil at the corner till the pieces are tender, and leave the bone easily; when done lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes upon the bottom of your dish, build up the pieces pyramidically, and have ready the following sauce: scoop fifty pieces of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan with half a tablespoonful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a few tablespoonfuls of broth or brown gravy (No. 135), with a bunch of parsley and a bay-leaf, let them simmer at the corner of the stove until the turnips are tender, take them out with a colander spoon and put them into a clean stewpan, reduce and skim the sauce well, and when of a proper thickness, pass it through a tammie over the turnips, make all hot together, sauce over the tails, and serve.

No. 648. Queues de Boeuf À la JardiniÈre.

Cook and dress the tails as before, then cut some carrots and turnips with button onions, as directed for the tongue À la jardiniÈre (No. 645), pass them in a stewpan, with a little butter and powdered sugar, ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce, with a quarter of a pint of stock, boil on the corner of the stove (skim well) until the vegetables are tender, and the sauce attains a good consistency; season with a little salt and sugar if required, sauce over, and serve.

No. 649. Queues de Boeuf sauce aux cornichons.

Cook and dress the tails as before, have ready a quart of sauce au jus d’Échalotte (No. 16), but not quite so acid as there directed, reduce till rather thick; have ready a good tablespoonful of chopped gherkins, and when the sauce is boiling throw them in, season with a little sugar and salt, sauce over, and serve. The sauce requires to be thick enough to adhere to the pieces of tails.

No. 650. Queues de Boeuf en currie.

Cook the tails as before, have ready about a quart of currie sauce (No. 46), moisten it with twenty spoonfuls of stock, stir in a stewpan over the fire, and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; then put in your ox-tails, and stand the stewpan in a bain marie till wanted, dress them in pyramid upon your dish, add twenty mushrooms to the sauce, which boil and skim, pour over, and serve with some boiled rice very dry (No. 129) upon a separate dish, to be placed on the side table.

No. 651. Queues de Boeuf À la Sicilienne.

Cook the tails as before, select ten of the best pieces, which drain well upon a cloth, have ready prepared about half a pint of sauce Durcelle (No. 704), let it get cold, then spread some over each piece of tail to entirely cover it, egg and bread-crumb, and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes, salamander a nice brown colour, dress in pyramid on your dish, and serve with some sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) round.

No. 652. Queues de Boeuf À la Marseillaise.

Cook and select ten of the best pieces as above, but instead of surrounding them with a sauce Durcelle spread a purÉe of onions, as for cotelettes À la ProvenÇale (No. 701), a quarter of an inch in thickness over them, egg and bread-crumb twice each, and just before serving fry in very hot lard; then put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of consommÉ (No. 134), and a little piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea; reduce and skim till becoming a nice demi-glace, dress in pyramid, and pour the sauce round.

No. 653. To prepare and dress Palates of Beef.

Palates of beef, if properly dressed, are very delicate eating, being of a gelatinous substance, they are much to be recommended; the reason, I believe, they are so seldom used, is the difficulty of giving them a graceful appearance in the dish; to obviate which, I have introduced one or two new receipts; I never expect it will be a fashionable dish, yet I think they are likely to bring them more in vogue.

For one entrÉe take four palates, put them in a large stewpan with lukewarm water for four or five hours to disgorge, then pour off the water, cover again with fresh water and put them on the fire till the palates begin to get hard, take one out and put it in cold water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes off easily, take out the rest, but if not leave them a little longer, scrape them until you have got off all the skin, and nothing but the white, half-transparent substance remains, when done, prepare a white stock (No. 133), in which boil them three or four hours till very tender; try them with a knife, take them up and lay them flat upon a dish, put a little of the stock in the dish with them, then place another dish of the same size over them, and let them remain till quite cold, they are then ready for use.

No. 654. Palates de Boeuf À la Ravigote.

Having prepared four palates as in the last, cut each in three, of an oval shape, each piece to be about the size of a fillet of fowl, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a very small piece of butter, stir a few minutes over a slow fire, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till becoming thick, keeping it stirred, then take it off the fire, add the yolk of two eggs, stir very quickly, and season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; then take each piece of palate singly on a fork and dip in the sauce, when well covered lay it on a dish to get cold; when all done, and half an hour before dinner-time, dip them into three eggs well beaten together, then into bread-crumbs, then into the eggs and bread-crumbs again, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them a nice colour in very hot lard; serve with a sauce ravigote (No. 44) under, and dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes.

No. 655. Attelets de Palates de Boeuf.

Have four palates prepared, which cut into thirty pieces with a round cutter, the size of a shilling, dip each piece into sauce, but a little thinner than above, and lay them on a dish to cool; cut twenty pieces of dressed tongue of the same size, and twenty slices of large truffles, with twenty of mushrooms, then have eight small silver skewers (or attelets), upon which place the pieces of palates, placing either a slice of tongue, truffle, or mushroom between each; when you have stuck them all on the skewers, have a little of the sauce you dipped the palates in, spread a little over the crevices between to make them look like one, dip each attelet in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, and fry a nice colour in hot lard; dress them three at the bottom, then three above, the reverse of the others to form a square, and the other two across, garnish with plenty of fried parsley, and serve very hot.

No. 656. Palates de Boeuf À la VivandiÈre.

Proceed, fry, and dress them as directed for À la ravigote; serve with the following sauce: chop two large onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, place them over the fire, keeping stirred till they become rather yellow, then pour off as much butter as you can; add a glass of port wine and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, let simmer five minutes, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and six of consommÉ (No. 134), reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, pour the sauce in the centre and round your palates, have a good handful of fried parsley, which place in a pyramid in the centre, and serve very hot.

No. 657. Turban de Palate de Boeuf au gratin.

Prepare four palates of beef as before, which cut into twelve oval pieces, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), place a little on the bottom of a sautÉ-pan in a circle (the size you require your entrÉe), then cover each piece of palate with the remainder, and dress them in a crown upon the forcemeat in the sautÉ-pan; egg and bread-crumb, place them in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, if getting too much colour cover some paper over; when done, detach it from the sautÉ-pan with a thin long knife, and with a fish-slice remove it into your dish, sauce over with a sauce Italienne (No. 30), and serve. Should you have a silver dish for au gratins, it would be preferable to dress it upon that, as it would not require moving.

No. 658. Vol-au-vent de Palates de Boeuf.

Make a vol-au-vent as described (No. 1140), have ready prepared four palates, which cut into pieces with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown, put them into a stewpan with ten mushrooms, a quart of white sauce (No. 7), and six spoonfuls of white stock; when boiling, add a bunch of parsley, let simmer on the corner of the stove half an hour, skim, take out the parsley if too thick, add a little more stock, throw in a pat of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, sugar, and a little lemon-juice, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, let it set over the fire, but not boil, fill the vol-au-vent and serve.

It may be served also in a casserole of rice (No. 626), or flat, as a blanquette, in an entrÉe-dish garnished with croutons of bread.

No. 659. Palates de Boeuf en Papillote.

Have prepared four palates, which cut into twelve oval pieces, put two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a deep sautÉ-pan, with four of chopped onions, stir with a wooden spoon five minutes over a sharp fire, then pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms, with six of white stock, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; add a little grated nutmeg, then put in your pieces of palates, boil a few minutes longer, and turn the whole on a dish to get cold; finish dressing, and serve as directed for aiguillettes de langue de boeuf (No. 643).

No. 660. Turban de TÊte de Veau en Tortue.

Cook and prepare a calf’s head as directed in the Removes (No. 462); only for entrees you must cut much smaller pieces, and of course you require a much smaller quantity of sauce. I have merely repeated it here to show that it may be served as an entrÉe; but great care must be taken in boiling the head, for if not done enough it is not eatable, and if done too much it would be impossible to dress them on your dish. Care must also be taken in dishing up to make it look graceful, and it cannot be served too hot.

No. 661. Turban de TÊte de Veau À la MaÎtre d’HÔtel.

Prepare your calf’s head as in the last, and dress the pieces in crown upon mashed potatoes, have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of good white stock, boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79), very highly seasoned, let it melt, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 662. Turban de TÊte de Veau À la Hollandaise.

Prepare and dish the calf’s head as before, serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over it.

No. 663. Turban de TÊte de Veau À la Poulette.

Prepare and dish as before, have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) with a pint of white stock, thirty small button-onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied together, into a stewpan, simmer at the corner of the stove nearly an hour, skim and take out the bunch of herbs, then with a colander-spoon take out the onions, which put in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie over the onions, add twelve nice white blanched mushrooms, set again on the fire, and when nearly boiling, add a liaison of one yolk of egg (mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream), stir in quickly, place over the fire another minute, keeping it stirred, but do not let it boil, add a little lemon-juice and chopped parsley, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 664. Turban de TÊte de Veau À l’Indienne.

Prepare and dress the head as usual, and serve with a sauce À l’Indienne (No. 45).

Great care should be taken in choosing Indian pickles, no sort are of any service in cooking but the green prickly sort, when good they are milder eating, a good flavour, and firm to the touch, but if very hot and soft they are fit for nothing whatever.

Calf’s head may be served for entrÉes dressed as directed with sauce currie (No. 46), and rice, separate, or sauce poivrade, piquante, or tomates (Nos. 32, 27 and 37).

No. 665. Oreilles de Veau farci.

It requires four ears to make an entrÉe, trim rather small and set them in warm water to disgorge for several hours, then prepare a white stock like for calf’s head (No. 459), put them in and stew for an hour or more till tender, leave them to get cold in their stock, then take half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), to which add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms; mix altogether with the yolk of an egg, take out the ears, which dry on a cloth, fill the inside with the forcemeat but not too full, have some eggs well beaten in a basin, dip the ears in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, fry in lard but not too hot as the forcemeat takes some time to cook, dress upon mashed potatoes on your dish and serve a sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) under them.

No. 666. Oreilles de Veau en marinade.

Cook the ears as above, but do not stuff them, cut each ear in five or six pieces the long way, and put them in a basin with pepper, salt, two onions in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, eight cloves, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and two of oil; let them remain six hours or more, then take out the pieces of ear, wipe each piece with a cloth, have ready some batter (No. 1285), dip the pieces in separately, let them be covered in every part, and drop them into hot lard, they will take five minutes to fry, dress them on a dish with a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12) under them; garnish with fried parsley and serve. Two ears will be sufficient for the above.

No. 667. Langues de Veau aux champignons.

Procure four tongues, which put in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves, one blade of mace, and six cloves; cover with white broth or water, if water add a scrag of veal, half a pound of lean ham, and a little salt; place on the fire, and when it commences boiling skim it and place it at the corner of the stove till the tongues are done, which you can ascertain by pricking them with a packing-needle; if it goes in easy they are done; take them up and peel off the skin, cut each tongue into three slices of the shape of cotelettes, dress them in a crown upon mashed potatoes, glaze well, and serve with a sauce aux champignons (No. 52). If the tongues are boiled the day previous, warm them as directed langue de boeuf (No. 644).

Calves’ tongues dressed this way may also be served with sauce À la jardiniÈre (No. 100), sauce piquante, or sauce poivrade (Nos. 27 and 32).

No. 668. Calves’ Brains.

Procure two sets of brains, leave them four hours in water to disgorge, take off the skin which covers them, and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of water, one wineglass of vinegar, some salt, two onions sliced, a carrot, a few cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let boil gently from twenty minutes to half an hour, take them up, lay on a cloth, and cut each one in halves, place them in the dish and serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), matelote (No. 62), maÎtre d’hÔtel (No. 43), or piquante (No. 27), or beurre noir (No. 306).

No. 669. Queues de Veau À la Ravigote.

Four calves’ tails are quite sufficient for an entrÉe, procure them as large and as white as possible; cut them in pieces an inch and a quarter in length, and put them into a stewpan, with a quart of good white stock, two onions, half a carrot, head of celery, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; set on the fire to boil, skim, and place it at the corner to simmer for two hours, or until the tails are done, which you can tell by pressing them with your finger, drain them on a cloth, lay a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your entrÉe dish, stand the larger pieces perpendicularly upon it, then again other pieces upon them, till they form a pyramid; have ready a good ravigote sauce (No. 44), rather highly seasoned, which pour over and serve; the sauce should be thick enough to adhere to the pieces.

No. 670. Queues de Veau À la Poulette.

Cook and dress the tails as before, and sauce as directed for turban de tÊte de veau À la poulette (No. 663).

No. 671. Of Sweetbreads.

The middle-sized heart-breads are to be preferred to the over large or small, the throat-bread is rarely used to dress and serve whole, but may be served in blanquettes, vol-au-vents, or ragouts. Sweetbreads cannot be too white, if red when brought in leave them four or five hours in warm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan well covered with water to blanch, (if you put them in cold water they will be blanched enough as soon as the water begins to boil), throw them a minute in cold water, then lay them on a dish face downwards, place the bottom of another dish upon them, on which place a four pounds weight, they are then ready for use where directed; three sweetbreads are sufficient for an entrÉe if rather large, and four if small.

No. 672. Ris de Veau À la Santa Cruz.

Take three good sweetbreads, blanch as directed, then lard them (with very thin strips of fat bacon an inch and a half in length) from top to bottom an inch and a half in width, and again from one side to the other to form a cross; have thirty-six pieces of truffles cut in the shape of cloves, but much thicker and rather longer, (twelve for each sweetbread), make a hole with a larding-needle in the centre of the cross in which place a piece of the truffle, proceeding in like manner in the centre of the bacon at equal distances apart, cover the bottom of a flat stewpan with fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads upon it, cover the bottom of the stewpan about the depth of two inches with stock, place it over the fire till the stock boils, put it in the oven about half an hour will be sufficient to cook them, (but that depends upon their size and the heat of the oven,) try them with a larding-needle, if quite tender through they are done; but if soft in the middle and toughish leave them a little longer, glaze them lightly and salamander a nice gold colour, drain them on a cloth and have ready the following sauce: blanch one ounce of riband macaroni in water till tender, dry, and put it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and two of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a piece of glaze, reduce till rather thick, then add twenty heads of mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; season with a little sugar and cayenne, pour the sauce in your dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve very hot.

No. 673. Ris de Veau piquÉ À la Turque.

Blanch four small heart-sweetbreads as directed, and lard them nicely from end to end lengthwise, with fat bacon an inch and a half in length, and breadth in proportion, braise as directed in the last; have ready a ring of forcemeat (No. 120) made in a round plain mould[7] well buttered, with a round piece of bread in the centre; lay the forcemeat round the bread an inch and a half in thickness, place the mould in a stewpan of boiling water, (but do not let the water get into the mould), place the stewpan over the fire till the forcemeat is set, then take it out, detach the bread from the centre and turn out the forcemeat, which will be a complete ring, place it on the dish, cut each of the sweetbreads in halves and dress them upon it, the cut part towards the middle; then have ready blanched half a pound of good rice as directed (No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little saffron powder, pepper, salt, and sugar; mix all together and dress in pyramid in the centre, place a fine (dressed) cockscomb between each half sweetbread, sauce over the rice with sauce au suprÈme (No. 57), glaze the sweetbreads and serve.

No. 674. Ris de Veau piquÉ À la FinanciÈre.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before; have ready a ragout À la financiÈre (No. 50), which pour in the dish, dress your sweetbreads over, glaze lightly and serve.

No. 675. Ris de Veau piquÉ À la purÉe d’asperges.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before, but keep them a more delicate colour and drain them well upon a cloth; when you take them from the stewpan have ready a purÉe of asparagus (No. 102), which pour into the dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve.

Larded sweetbreads may be also served with a truffle sauce (No. 51), Palestine, jardiniÈre, aux concombres, dressed spinach, or endive (see Nos. 87, 100, 103, 106, and 119.)

No. 676. Ris de Veau rÔti.

Heart-sweetbreads are also preferable for roasting, although the throat-breads may be used; blanch as before and let them cool, place them in a stewpan, with two onions, two cloves, a blade of mace, a carrot, quarter of a pound of lean ham, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover with a good stock, and place them on the fire to boil twenty minutes, take them out, dry on a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them twice over, then run a long flat skewer through them lengthwise, which tie up on a spit, roast before a fierce fire till they become a nice light brown, keeping them basted with butter; pass the stock they were boiled in through a sieve into another stewpan, boil and skim well, place the sweetbreads in a dish, pour some of the stock round and serve; it may also be served with sauce piquante, poivrade, or tomata (Nos. 27, 32, 37).

No. 677. Caisse de ris de Veau À la Ninon de l’Enclos.

Roast four sweetbreads as directed in the last, and let them remain till cold, then open and empty them, thus making a case, leaving it a quarter of an inch in thickness; cut up what you have taken from them in slices, have also twenty small pieces of cucumber, prepared as directed for sauce (No. 103), put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a very small piece of butter, pass over the fire a few minutes, but keep them quite white, then add three parts of a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little milk, reduce till thickish, keeping it stirred, add the sweetbread and cucumber, season with a little sugar and salt, and when it boils add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream; do not let it boil afterwards, fill the cases and cover the opening with a little very thick fritter butter (No. 1285), place them in a sharp oven, and as soon as the batter is baked sufficient, dress them on your dish, three at the bottom and one on the top; serve with a thin bechamel sauce (No. 7) under.

No. 678. Escalopes de Ris de Veau au suprÈme.

Blanch three sweetbreads twenty minutes, and when cold cut each bread into four slices lengthwise, and trim in the shape of fillets of fowl, well butter the bottom of a sautÉ-pan, lay in the escalopes, keeping them in their shapes, season over with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place over a slow fire, ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them; when done on one side turn, keep them quite white, lay them on a cloth to drain, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; serve with a sauce au suprÈme (No. 57) poured over.

No. 679. Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux pointes d’asperges.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the last, and serve a sauce aux pointes d’asperges (No. 101) in the centre.

No. 680. Escalopes de Ris de Veau À l’Indienne.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the two last, but keep them rather underdone; when cold egg and bread-crumb them twice over, put six spoonfuls of oil in a sautÉ-pan, place it over the fire, and when hot lay in the escalopes, which fry a nice light brown colour, dress in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a nice white Indian sauce (No. 45) in the centre, previously glazing the escalopes lightly.

No. 681. Escalopes de Ris de Veau en caisses.

Blanch four throat-sweetbreads, and cut them in slices one size larger and three times the thickness of a shilling, butter the bottom of a sautÉ-pan and put in two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, lay the pieces of sweetbread over, season with a little salt and pepper, and place them over a slow fire; when done add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), a little glaze, half a pint of broth, a little powdered sugar and grated nutmeg; let simmer altogether ten minutes, moving them round by shaking the sautÉ-pan, have six or eight small paper boxes, or cases, fill each of them three parts full with the above, egg the top with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes, pass the salamander over, dress them in pyramid on your dish, and serve with plenty of fried parsley.

No. 682. Atelettes de Ris de Veau.

Prepare the sweetbreads precisely as in the last, but add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have six silver skewers (atelettes), and run six or eight pieces of sweetbread upon each, with as much sauce as possible adhering to them, smooth round with a knife, dip them in eggs well beaten in a basin, then into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, dip them again into the bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard, dress them as described for atelettes de palates de boeuf (No. 655), and serve a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.

No. 683. Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux truffes.

Blanch three throat-sweetbreads twenty minutes, cut them in slices the size and double the thickness of half-crown-pieces, cut also into thin slices six good-sized truffles, then put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a convenient-sized stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes over a sharp fire, keeping them quite white, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce three minutes, then add the sweetbread and truffles, season with a little salt and sugar, simmer gently five minutes, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, pour it out in your dish and garnish with eight large triangular croutons of bread (in the form of a star) fried in butter, which glaze and serve.

No. 684. Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau.

Make a vol-au-vent as directed (No. 1140), cook two sweetbreads with truffles as in the last, and when ready to serve fill your vol-au-vent, which glaze lightly and serve very hot.

Sweetbreads may also be served either in blanquettes or vol-au-vents, with cucumbers, stewed mushrooms, slices of tongue or ham, instead of truffles.

No. 685. Of Tendrons de Veau.

For one entrÉe you will require the tendrons from two breasts of veal, which are cut out without injuring the breasts, and afterwards stewed (see breast of veal in the Removes); tie the two tendrons together and put them in a deep stewpan, with two carrots, four onions, six cloves, a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover with a second stock, place them on the fire, and when boiling draw it on the corner, skim, and let stew gently for six or seven hours; when done (which you may ascertain by running the point of your knife through them, if tender they are done, if not stew them till they are,) lay them on a dish, take away the string, pull out the small bones which may remain, and place another dish of the same size upon them, on which place a seven pounds weight; when quite cold and set, cut twelve pieces out of them either of an oval or diamond shape, but not too large, egg and bread-crumb the sides but not the edges twice over, and fry them gently of a light-brown colour in a sautÉ-pan. Serve with any of the sauces directed for the sweetbreads.

No. 686. Tendrons de Veau À la Noble Dame.

Prepare two tendrons as before, and when quite cold cut out twelve pieces of any shape you please, but one third less than in the previous article, put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of white stock and two of chopped mushrooms; reduce till thick enough to cover the back of the spoon, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, take your pieces of tendrons one at a time with a fork, dip them in the sauce so that they are covered on every part, and lay them on a dish to get cold; have ready some fritter batter (No. 1285), dip each piece of tendron with as much sauce as adheres to it, and fry in very hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, fill the centre with fried watercresses, for sauce put a gill of cream in a stewpan, and when boiling add two pats of butter and a little salt; when the butter is quite melted sauce round and serve.

No. 687. Tendrons de Veau À la Dauphine.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but instead of dipping them in the batter, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard of a fine yellow colour; serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) poured round.

No. 688. Cotelettes de Veau piquÉ aux petits pois.

Veal cotelettes require to be cut from the neck in the same shape as mutton cutlets, four are sufficient for an entrÉe, they must be very nicely larded on one side, like a sweetbread, braise in the same kind of manner until very tender, glaze lightly, and salamander of a light-brown colour; have ready boiled a pint of young peas, which put in a stewpan, with two pats of butter, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream, pour into the dish and dress the cotelettes over in a square, glaze lightly and serve; dressed in the above manner they may also be served with sauce À la jardiniÈre, aux navets au brun, aux pointes d’asperges, aux concombres, sauce poivrade, or sauce tomate.

No. 689. Cotelettes de Veau en papillote.

Cut six small veal cotelettes, do not lard them, put six tablespoonfols of oil in a sautÉ-pan, in which fry the cotelettes; when done pour off a little of the oil, put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped mushrooms, and twenty of brown sauce (No. 1) seasoned rather high, moisten with a little stock and simmer altogether twenty minutes, place the cotelettes on a dish in the sauce to get cold, cut six pieces of paper in the shape of hearts, oil them, and put a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible around, fold each one up, plaiting it at the edges, broil them twenty minutes over a slow fire, and dress them in a circle on your dish without removing the papers.

No. 690. Cotelettes de Veau À la Sans FaÇon.

Cut four large cotelettes, which season well, dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, in which you have mixed some finely chopped eschalots and parsley, beat them with your knife, dip them into warm clarified butter, and again into the bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and broil them nicely over a sharp fire; have in a stewpan six or eight well boiled mealy potatoes, add four pats of butter and a little pepper and salt, mash them well with a fork, adding a gill of cream by degrees, mixing quickly they will be very light, dress them in a pyramid on your dish, glaze the cotelettes, which stand upright against the potatoes, and serve; this is an excellent dish for luncheon.

No. 691. Noix de Veau for EntrÉes.

Are prepared exactly in the same manner as described for the flancs (No. 565), only they are not required so large, half the noix being quite sufficient, that is, cut into two slices, trim it of a nice shape, lard, dress, and serve, with the sauces as described for the flancs.

No. 692. Grenadins de Veau piquÉ aux racines nouvelles.

Cut twelve fillets from a noix de veau the size and shape of fillets of fowl, lard them nicely with very finely cut bacon, cover the bottom of a convenient-sized sautÉ-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, upon which lay the grenadins, add a little veal stock but not enough to cover them, place a sheet of buttered paper over and stand them in a moderate oven for an hour or till tender, moistening occasionally with a little of the stock; when done glaze them lightly and salamander of a light colour, then have prepared twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, which cook as directed (No. 109), dish the grenadins in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, place a pyramid of the potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which dress the carrots and turnips in rotation; have ready the following sauce: put the glaze from your vegetables in a stewpan, with half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and a little good stock, place it on the fire, skim, and reduce until rather thick; sauce over your vegetables and serve.

Grenadins may be served with any of the sauces as described for noix de veau or sweetbreads.

No: 693. Of Veal Kidneys.

The kidney being part of the loin is usually served with it, and a loin of veal roasted without it would be considered worthless, but still the loins may be dressed, as directed in the Removes, without the kidneys; to stew them proceed as follows: cut three kidneys into thin slices, put an ounce of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, place over the fire, and just as it begins to get brown throw in the kidneys, stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon, and when they become firm add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir it in, then add a glass of sherry, eight spoonfuls of broth, and twenty mushrooms, let all boil together five minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, if too thick add more broth, pour them on a dish and serve, or they would look better served in a croustade of bread (No. 416) fried a nice yellow colour.

Proceed exactly as described for ris de veau en caisses (No. 681).

No. 695. Boudin de Veau À la LegumiÈre.

Make two pounds of veal forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the sides of a plain round mould with vegetables, precisely as directed for a Chartreuse (No. 604), then cut a piece of bread quite round, the depth of the mould, cover the bread with white buttered paper, and stand it in the centre of the mould,[8] leaving the space of an inch and a half all round, which fill up with the forcemeat, being careful not to disarrange the vegetables; when well filled, put the mould in a stewpan, cover with a piece of stiff paper, put water enough in the stewpan to come three parts of the way up the mould, place the stewpan over the fire and let it simmer gently (keeping it covered) nearly an hour, turn it out on your dish, take the bread and paper from the centre, sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and serve.

No. 696. Boudin de Veau À la Richelieu.

Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, have five or six good-sized truffles chopped very fine, throw them in the mould, which roll round until the sides are quite covered with them; then prepare a piece of bread as in the last, fill the space up with the same forcemeat, blanch it in a stewpan as before, turn out on your dish, take away the bread, and serve with a sauce PÉrigueux (No. 55) over it.

No. 697. Of Mutton for EntreÉs.

For entrÉes the small South Down mutton is much to be preferred, the principal entrÉes made from mutton are cotelettes, which never will be out of vogue; I shall therefore give a numerous list of receipts for the dressing of them, but the manner of cutting them requires particular attention; the most simple method is to take the chine-bone off from the neck neatly with a saw, but not quite detaching all the meat from the bone, then cut it into chops, leaving a bone to each; with a knife cut off the skinny part from each side of the bone and a piece of the meat at the end of the bone, so as to leave a piece of bone about half an inch in length, then with a cotelette-bat beat them nearly to the same thickness as the bone, take the rough parts of the bone off with your chopper, and trim the cotelettes of a good shape, taking off a greater part of the fat and rounding the lean part nicely; but in cutting cotelettes to look well, much depends upon the taste of the person, they require to be cut some time previous to cooking, or they would shrink and loose their shape.

No. 698. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Reform.

Chop a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham very fine,

and mix it with the same quantity of bread-crumbs, then have ten very nice cotelettes, lay them flat on your table, season lightly with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into the ham and bread-crumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, put ten spoonfuls of oil in a sautÉ-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot lay in the cotelettes, fry nearly ten minutes (over a moderate fire) of a light brown colour; to ascertain when done, press your knife upon the thick part, if quite done it will feel rather firm; possibly they may not all be done at one time, so take out those that are ready first and lay them on a cloth till the others are done; as they require to be cooked with the gravy in them, dress upon a thin border of mashed potatoes in a crown, with the bones pointing outwards, sauce over with a pint of the sauce reform (No. 35), and serve. If for a large dinner you may possibly be obliged to cook the cotelettes half an hour before, in which case they must be very underdone, and laid in a clean sautÉ-pan, with two or three spoonfuls of thin glaze; keep them in the hot closet, moistening them occasionally with the glaze (with a paste-brush) until ready to serve; the same remark applies to every description of cotelettes.

No. 699. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Vicomtesse.

Cut, bread-crumb, and fry ten mutton cotelettes as in the last, but let them be rather underdone, then have ready six large quenelles of veal (No. 120) quite cold, mash them in a basin with a wooden spoon, then add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, two of chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg, with a tablespoonful of cold white sauce (No. 7) and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together, and put a piece of the size of a walnut upon each cotelette, spread it even, then have ten thin small slices of cooked ham, place a slice upon each cotelette, which again cover with the forcemeat, forming a flattish dome, but not too thick; egg over with a paste-brush, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put again into the sautÉ-pan, and place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, salamander a light colour, dress in crown on a thin border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar from India pickles, and a little lemon-juice, stir it quickly over the fire with a wooden spoon until beginning to thicken, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) with four of milk, stir over the fire, but do not let it boil, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stir it another minute over the fire, sauce over, have two firm green India pickles and half an ounce of lean cooked ham chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve very hot.

No. 700. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Westphalienne.

Prepare ten cotelettes as in the last, mixing chopped Westphalia ham with the bread-crumbs instead of the common ham, likewise sprinkling ham over the forcemeat instead of bread-crumbs, place them in the oven as before, and salamander a nice colour, dress in crown as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: pound a quarter of a pound of lean Westphalia cooked ham very fine, add two ounces of butter and pass it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; reduce and skim till becoming a good demi-glace, add two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, a little sugar, and the butter with the ham, stir over the fire until the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 701. Cotelettes de Mouton À la ProvenÇale.

Have ready ten cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg with a paste-brush, and dip them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife and fry in oil, but very much underdone, lay them on a cloth, and have ready the following: chop six middling-sized onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes, keeping stirred with a wooden spoon, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and four tablespoonfuls of good stock, boil altogether a quarter of an hour or till the onions are quite tender, season with a little pepper, salt, and nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, draw the stewpan off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs, place over the fire another minute, pour it out on a dish to get cold, place a piece the size of a large walnut upon each cotelette, spread it over with a knife, leaving it thickest in the middle; egg them with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, drop a little oil on each, put them in the same sautÉ-pan, place in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and dress them on your dish as before; have ready the following sauce: put nearly a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and eight spoonfuls of consommÉ (No. 134); reduce and skim well till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas, sauce over and serve; more garlic may be added if approved of.

No. 702. Cotelettes de Mouton À la BohÉmienne.

Have twelve good cotelettes well-trimmed, lay them in a basin and pour a quart of good marinade hot over them (see filet de boeuf À la BohÉmienne, No. 426), let them remain four or five days, turning them occasionally; when wanted take them out, dry on a cloth, dip in flour and broil them quickly over a sharp fire, dress in crown like the cotelettes reform, and have ready the following sauce: a gill of the marinade in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), six of brown sauce, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce till it becomes half glaze again, then add a spoonful of red-currant jelly, three anchovies well washed, and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, also twenty pieces of gherkins cut in the same shape, let warm in the sauce, which pour over and serve. The cotelettes may be bread-crumbed if required.

No. 703. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Soubise.

Prepare twelve cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them in clarified butter in a sautÉ-pan, dress on your dish as before, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) under, glaze lightly when dressing them on your dish.

No. 704. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Durcelle.

Egg, bread-crumb, and fry twelve cotelettes in oil, when done take out and lay them on a cloth, put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and two of chopped onions in the sautÉ-pan, fry them a light brown colour, pour off as much oil as possible, add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a little consommÉ, let boil quickly ten minutes, then add a little sugar, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same of chopped parsley, and one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, put the cotelettes into the sauce to get hot, have ready four paper cases six inches long, lay three cotelettes in each, pour the sauce over, place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, dress on your dish in the cases and serve immediately.

No. 705. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petites racines.

Prepare and fry twelve cotelettes as directed for cotelettes À la Soubise, dress in crown and proceed as for the grenadins de veau (No. 692), glaze them lightly and serve.

No. 706. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce piquante.

Dress the cotelettes as above, glaze lightly and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) over them.

No. 707. Cotelettes de Mouton À la JardiniÈre.

Dress twelve cotelettes as before described, dish as usual, have ready a sauce jardiniÈre (No. 100), place the vegetables, and sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes lightly, and serve.

No. 708. Cotelettes de Mouton aux champignons.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommÉ, reduce it a little, and skim; then add thirty mushrooms, season with a little pepper and sugar, add a small piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, and boil altogether ten minutes; pour the sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.

No. 709. Cotelettes de Mouton aux navets au brun.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, have prepared forty scoops of turnips, each the size of a marble, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over a fire ten minutes, keeping them tossed, to prevent their burning, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and half a do. of consommÉ, stand it on the corner of the stove, skim well, and let it remain till the turnips are tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick; then pour it in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the turnips be done before the sauce is thick, take them out with a colander spoon until it has sufficiently reduced.

No. 710. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Palestine.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as before, have ready the following sauce: scoop forty scoops of Jerusalem artichokes the size of the turnips in the last, and proceed exactly the same, using white sauce (No. 7), and white stock instead of brown, and finishing with a good tablespoonful of liaison; serve as before; they must not be boiled too quickly, or they will break to pieces.

No. 711. Cotelettes de Mouton aux pointes d’asperges.

Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, have ready boiled, very green, half a bundle of sprue grass cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with four of white stock in a stewpan, and when a little reduced add the sprue, with half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt; let boil a minute, and finish with a liaison of half a yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, sauce in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze lightly, and serve. When sprue grass is cheap, dress it thus for cotelettes: you have cut and boiled a bunch very green; drain it upon a sieve, and whilst hot put them into a stewpan, with six pats of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and the half of one of sugar; place over the fire, stirring round gently until the butter is melted, then dress them in a pyramid in the centre of the cotelettes, pour a thin bechamel sauce round, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. By this simple method you retain the full flavour of the grass.

No. 712. Cotelettes de Mouton aux haricots verts.

Proceed exactly as before, using some French beans cut in diamonds and nicely boiled, instead of the sprue grass, dress the beans in either of the above methods.

No. 713. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petits pois.

Dress and dish your cotelettes as usual, have ready, nicely boiled, a pint of young peas (No. 1075) which put in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, two spoonfuls of white sauce, a bunch of green onions, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt; keep them moving over the fire by shaking the stewpan till they are quite hot; take out the onions, finish with a liaison of a yolk of egg and two tablespoonfuls of cream, dress the peas in the centre, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. The peas may also be dressed in either of the methods directed in the two last.

No. 714. Cotelettes de Mouton aux chouxfleurs.

Dress the cotelettes as before, have nicely boiled two small cauliflowers, put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt; divide each cauliflower into eight pieces, and when the sauce boils add them to it, finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and serve as before. The cauliflower must not be too much done, or it would break to pieces.

No. 715. Cotelettes de Mouton aux truffes.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommÉ, and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon; have six middling-sized preserved truffles cut in thin slices, which throw into the sauce whilst boiling, season with a little sugar, boil all together a few minutes, glaze the cotelettes, sauce over, and serve.

No. 716. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Maintenon.

Have twelve cotelettes nicely cut, lay them on the table and season lightly, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sautÉ-pan, lay in your cotelettes, and fry over a moderate fire till three parts done, take them out, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sautÉ-pan; fry till of a light brown colour, pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a little consommÉ, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; reduce till rather thick, then throw in the cotelettes for a few minutes, turn out on a dish, and leave them to get cold in the sauce; have twelve pieces of white paper, each cut in the shape of a heart and large enough to fold a cotelette in, rub a little oil over, and place a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible; fold them up, and broil ten minutes over a moderate fire, dress them in a crown on your dish, without taking them out of the papers, which must well cover the cotelettes, or they would be very dry.

No. 717. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce remoulade.

Dress twelve cotelettes as for sauce Soubise (No. 703), then put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with three of veal stock or consommÉ, place it over the fire, and when boiling add an equal quantity of sauce tartare (No. 38) stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce under, and serve.

No. 718. Cotelettes de Mouton À la FinanciÈre.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, and serve the ragout À la financiÈre (No. 50) in the centre, only observe that the garniture must be very small, or it would look clumsy with such an entrÉe as cotelettes.

For cotelettes de mouton À l’Italienne, ditto, sauce poivrades, ditto, aux fines herbes, and ditto, aux jus d’Échalotte, dress the cotelettes as usual, and sauce over with either of the above-named sauces (see Nos. 30, 32, 26 and 27).

No. 719. Cotelettes de Mouton À la MaÎtre d’HÔtel.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before described, then put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of cream and two of broth; when boiling add one ounce of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79), shake the stewpan round till the butter melts, then pour the sauce under the cotelettes; have ready some fried potatoes very crisp, cut thin, and of the size of six penny-pieces, which build in pyramid in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 720. Cotelettes de Mouton À la Hollandaise.

Proceed precisely as for the last, only using some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) instead of the sauce maÎtre d’hÔtel, fried potatoes the same. For the two last entrÉes the sauce must not be too thick.

No. 721. Cotelettes de Mouton panÉe, grillÉe.

Prepare twelve nice cotelettes, which season nicely, egg and bread-crumb them, beat lightly with a knife, have some hot clarified butter in a stewpan, dip each cotelette in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and place them on the gridiron over a moderate fire, turning them now and then, ten minutes will be sufficient, dress in crown with a little plain gravy, or with any of the foregoing sauces.

No. 722. Of Cotelettes braised.

Braised cotelettes are much more in vogue in France than in England, for in the former they prefer meat stewed, whilst in the latter the meat is more succulent and tender, and even for Soubise or ProvenÇale the cotelette sautÉ is preferred, although properly they ought to be braised; I shall, therefore, describe the manner of braising them and leave the choice to my readers.

Prepare a neck of mutton by cutting off the chine-bone, and cut the cotelettes as before, but let them remain nearly of the same thickness you cut them from the neck, which will be nearly an inch, then stick five or six pieces of fat bacon about the size of a quill through the lean of each cotelette, cutting off the ends, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon and lay twelve cotelettes over, all laying on the same side, just cover them with stock, to which add an onion, three cloves, and a bunch of parsley, place a sheet of buttered paper over them, and place them over a slow fire to simmer between two and three hours, try them and if very tender place them upon an oval dish, with a little of their stock, place another dish over them upon which put a seven pounds weight; when quite cold trim nicely of equal sizes and put them in a sautÉ-pan with their stock to warm, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47), or any other sauce as directed for the cotelettes sautÉs. Although these cotelettes are required to be tender they must not be too much done or the bones would fall from them.

No. 723. Cotelettes de Mouton braisÉ À la Marseillaise.

Cook your cotelettes as directed in the last, but cut them rather small; when cold cover all over with the preparation of onion as for cotelettes À la ProvenÇale, egg and bread-crumb all over and place them in the oven for a quarter of an hour, dress in crown, previously giving them a nice colour with a salamander, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) much thinned, with cream under them.

No. 724. Carbonade of Mutton.

Prepare a loin of mutton as a carbonade (see flancs No. 577), and when cold cut it in slices rather more than half an inch in thickness, reduce the stock the carbonade was boiled in to a thin glaze, put the slices in a sautÉ-pan and pour it over them, place them over a slow fire till quite hot, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with any of the sauces named for cotelettes.

No. 725. Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante.

Braise and press a breast of mutton as directed (No. 487), and when cold cut ten pieces out of it in the shape of cotelettes, one third fat and two thirds lean, but not too large, egg, bread-crumb, and broil as for cotelettes panÉes grillÉes (No. 721), dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, glaze and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) in the centre. They may also be served with sauce Soubise (No. 47), poivrade (No. 32), jus d’Échalotte (No. 16), or fines herbes (No. 26).

No. 726. Rognons de Mouton À la brochette.

Mutton kidneys dressed in this manner are usually served for breakfast or luncheon, but they may be served as an entrÉe for dinner. Procure nine fresh kidneys, cut them open and run silver or wooden skewers through to keep them open, season well, egg over with a paste-brush, and dip them into a dish of bread-crumbs, broil over a moderate fire, about ten minutes will be sufficient; when done dress them on your dish in pyramid, place a piece of maÎtre d’hÔtel butter (No. 79) in each, half the size of a walnut, place them in the oven two minutes, glaze lightly and serve very hot.

No. 727. Rognons À la Tartare.

Broil nine kidneys as above, and serve with a good sauce À la tartare (No. 38) under them.

No. 728. Rognons de Mouton À la VÉnitienne.

Cut ten fresh kidneys in halves the long way, take off the skins and cut out the roots, or they would shrink in cooking; put two ounces of butter in a sautÉ-pan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, place the pan on the fire and as soon as the butter melts place in the kidneys, fry about five minutes, and when half done turn them, dress them in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and put them somewhere to keep hot; pour as much of the butter as possible from the sautÉ-pan, and put in a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six spoonfuls of consommÉ; boil altogether ten minutes, then add half an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78) and the juice of half a lemon, mix it well in, sauce over the kidneys and serve.

No. 729. Rognons de Mouton sautÉ au vin de champagne.

Skin eight kidneys and cut them into thin slices, put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter begins to brown throw in the kidneys, stir round with a wooden spoon and when they become firm add a small tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add two wineglasses of champagne with two of white broth and twenty blanched mushrooms; let all boil very gently a few minutes, season with the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour them out on your dish and serve. The sauce requires to be rather thick, sherry or hock may be used instead of champagne.

No. 730. Pieds de Mouton À la Poulette.

Proceed as directed for the flanc (No. 630) and serve them in a small casserole of rice, according to the size of your entrÉe dish.

No. 731. Pieds de Mouton À la purÉe d’oignons.

Cook the feet as directed (No. 630), and have ready prepared the following purÉe: peel and cut in dice four large onions, which put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter over the fire, keeping them stirred with a wooden spoon till tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, a pint of milk and a little broth, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, keep boiling till the onions are quite done, then put in the feet, which let simmer a few minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir well, and place it over the fire a minute, keeping it stirred to thicken, serve either on a dish or in a casserole of rice (No. 626). They require to be seasoned rather highly.