[1] He also approved of my observation, that I was well aware that people could not expect to find those dishes on the bill of fare every day, but only one or two nightly. To insure success, I would advise the proprietors of all extensive supper-houses to adopt the plan I so successfully introduced at the Reform Club many years since, which was to make a small bill of fare of eight or ten dishes which were ready, and cross out such as run short during the evening, recommending only those which remained. This saved time, words, and confusion; besides giving an opportunity of introducing one or two novelties daily, which would pay well if properly attended to. It would also gratify the consumer, who should not be kept waiting for his supper till fresh provisions were sent for and cooked, as at that hour many persons would content themselves with a less variety of dishes rather than wait.

[2] For Receipts, see Addenda.

[3] This spot is little known to the English in general, and to many who have travelled over the world; but as no such delightful place exists anywhere but in England, how can it possibly interest an Englishman? First of all, it is too close for the wealthy, and too far for the people, being six miles by coach from either Windsor or Staines. During the five months I spent there last summer, the greatest number of visitors I counted daily was about twenty or thirty round the lake, which is seven and a half miles in circumference. I should also observe that Louis Napoleon, being a man of great taste, has imitated it in the Bois de Bologne as nearly as possible; and by going there, every Englishman will have an idea of that which he possesses at home, without troubling himself, while in London, to go as far as Virginia Water.

[4] I have since learned that this gentleman during the campaign did so much good, and was so earnest in his endeavours to relieve the sufferings of the wounded at the battle of Inkermann, the allied as well as the Russian troops, that I intend to devote a page of this work to him, and also mention the names of the generals and others who spoke in such high terms of his exertions.

[5] I had bought a cash-belt, but upon trying it, on the point of our departure, I found it too short. This circumstance caused me to place everything in my pocket-book.

[6] That his Majesty was going early in March to the Crimea I can assert as a positive fact. Having met with many unbelievers on this subject in the Crimea is the cause of my relating this anecdote; and no doubt nothing but the following unexpected news could have prevented his majesty from following out his determination.

[7] A magnificent palace, dedicated to the Empress EugÉnie, designed by the Emperor, is now in course of erection near the spot.

[8] This remark may probably come to the notice of his friends, and lead to a monument being erected to his memory, which, no doubt, he well deserves.

[9] I earnestly recommend the adoption of this plan in every public institution, civil or military. For example, put in the caldron, which we will suppose holds fifty gallons, so much water, so many pounds of meat, vegetables, salt, pepper, and sugar; add the barley, light the fire; stir now and then with a long wooden spaddle to prevent the barley sticking at the bottom of the caldron; when boiling, reduce the fire. Simmer gently two and a half hours, if mutton is used; if beef, three hours. Never skim it, only take the fat off, if any, which use for other purposes, or instead of butter (see Hospital receipt in Addenda). If two or more boilers are required, the quantities given in the scale only need increasing.

[10] If I dwell so minutely upon these apparently frivolous details, it is only because I wish to show that I did not introduce anything until it had first met with the approval of the medical gentlemen.

[11] I believe I am correct in stating that, in the French army, one soldier has to cook for a squad of sixteen men, while in camp: and that he has charge of two canteen kettles. I always saw five or six men cooking for a company in each kitchen; there were ten kitchens to a regiment of ten companies. This the soldiers told me themselves.

I make this remark to corroborate what I afterwards said in Paris before several French officers who contradicted me, but who, I believe, were not in the Crimean war. They stated that they only had two cooks to one company while campaigning. Upon making inquiries of a corporal who had charge of that department in his regiment while in the Crimea, he assured me that it was one man to each kettle, and not one to two—afterwards divided into two messes, forming a squad of nine or ten men, which would be equal to one hundred men to a regiment of one thousand in strength, instead of eight, as I at first calculated, or about ten squads to a company. While in barracks, comparatively speaking, it only requires a few men per regiment.

[12] If I have here related this anecdote, it is with the intention of showing the effect produced by the report upon all engaged in the hospitals, who felt that a gentleman of that age, though very capable, might, with his antique notions, upset what was then going on so well.

[13] I have such confidence in the nutritive qualities and the importance to the army and navy of these bread-biscuits, that I intend to recommend their adoption in both departments. For a campaign they are invaluable; and at sea they would make an excellent change, being as light as bread.

[14] The difficulty of recollecting the names and the rank of military men in the Crimea is great. This is particularly the case with me. The performance of my manifold duties compelled me to cross and re-cross hundreds of times from vessel to vessel, hospital to hospital, and camp to camp. I met and received attentions and aid from numbers, of whom it is impossible to retain more than a slight photographic sketch of their noble Saxon countenances. From the peculiarity of my costume, I was almost as well known to every one in the camp as a chien du rÉgiment.

I offer this explanation as an apology to any one whom I may have inadvertently annoyed—if any such there be—in my account of my Crimean campaign, by not giving the proper rank or name.

[15] A peculiar kind of turbot found in the Black Sea, with scales, each scale something like the head of a large iron nail; and though, when the fish is thickly covered, it in a measure spoils its appearance, yet it does not in the slightest interfere with the quality, but, on the contrary, leaves a gelatinous succulence round it, entirely peculiar to this rough-outfitted denizen of the ocean.

[16] Sir Michael Shaw Stewart’s sister.

[17] This is the ancient who, after partaking of the best dinner ever prepared, unfortunately inquired of his private secretary how his cash account stood, and finding that he had only a few millions of dollars remaining, for fear of being in future obliged to dine badly, or at least compelled to curtail his incalculable expenditure, one day dined magnificently by himself, and ordering the most luxurious banquet that Rome could boast of. On that solemn occasion, though there were enough culinary chefs-d’oeuvre to delight an immense number of epicures, he only invited himself! “Sublime idea!” he ejaculated; “after dining like two Vitelliuses, or several Luculluses, to die in the midst of plenty!” Thereupon he swallowed poison, and was found dead at the head of his table.

[18] Ahmet Pacha, who speaks French, has his country residence at the greater Chamlija; and that of Selim Pacha, where we dined, is in the lesser Chamlija.

[19] That kitchen was put up at the South Union Workhouse, where no doubt it still remains. In some institutions steam tubes have since been introduced into the boiler amongst the food. This, I beg to say, forms no part of my plan, as has been publicly reported. I disapprove of the system altogether, for many reasons, which it would be out of place to discuss in this work.

[20] He related the following anecdote of something that had passed between him and Sir John Campbell, on the eve of the attack of the 18th of June. Sir John had for some time inquired after him, and at last meeting him going to his master’s quarters, called out and said, “FranÇois, how much am I in your debt?”

“Why, Colonel, it is only the middle of the month; I will give you your small bill at the end.”

“No, no,” said Sir John, “I want it now, FranÇois.”

“Have I offended you, Colonel?”

“Offended me, no! on the contrary, I am much obliged to you for your kind services; but the end of this month may be to-morrow for me, as we shall have a terrible attack upon the Redan; so I want to settle all my little affairs to-day.”

“Oh, I’m sure, General, it will be all right.”

“Indeed I must have it—how much does it amount to?”

“Well, General, if I must, I must—it is one pound seventeen, or somewhere thereabouts.”

The General wished him good night, and with a smile upon his countenance returned to his cave, and FranÇois to his duty. That noble-hearted man seemed to have a presentiment that he should not survive the attack. The tears stood in his eyes while he was relating this to me, and I found my own in much the same state in listening to the recital.

[21] A few days after, his Majesty honoured with his presence the grand anniversary ball given at the French Embassy by Monsieur Thouvenel, the French ambassador. It was also very splendid, but not being a fancy one, did not offer the same points of interest. The English ball had the advantage of being the first ever attended by a Moslem monarch: nevertheless, his Sublime Majesty remained longer at the latter than at the former, having, doubtless, taken a fancy to our European social customs.

[22] When I say “according to common sense,” I am speaking within bounds. Salt and pepper, fresh and preserved vegetables (the latter either in tins or in cakes), were distributed from the regimental quartermaster’s stores to the cooks of each company for three days’ consumption at a time. The consequence was that, in a couple of days, and sometimes in one, the three days’ rations had either been consumed or were wasted. The first day, the soup or other food was badly prepared, on account of the excess of these ingredients; and it was still worse on the following days, on account of their being short of all with the exception of the meat, which was therefore boiled in plain water with rice, but often without either salt or vegetables. The food was thus rendered insipid and unwholesome. Such was the system I found in general use, and it was a great pity, seeing the Government had so liberally provided all that was required. Proper regulation was all that was needed in order to increase the comforts of the men. The meals of the whole army constitute a very important matter. Any improvement was certain to be felt daily; for can anything be more unpalatable than a piece of fresh beef boiled in plain water, without seasoning? There was no salt to eat with it, although plenty was allowed for each man. This is what I call want of attention and lack of common sense. I do not mean to say this was always the case, as some quartermasters, who noticed the evil, distributed the vegetables daily, instead of for three days at once. Many of the men were intelligent enough to divide the allowance, but the greater number were very careless; it therefore became of the utmost importance to establish a rule which would not leave them the chance of doing wrong. The great evil is, that after being thus deprived of salt for a day or two, they then receive salt rations, which they boil in small tin camp-kettles, and without soaking, in merely a few pints of water, which becomes like so much brine. Thus various diseases, which are seldom attributed to the real cause, are engendered, and all medicinal equilibrium is completely upset. The rectifying of this was one of the numerous difficulties I had to encounter during my mission.

[23] For a regiment of one thousand men, increase the number of stoves in proportion. If one hundred regiments are to be cooked for, repeat the same in each regiment, when you will have cooked enough food to perfection without much trouble for an army of one hundred thousand men, at the same time effecting a saving of above 400 per cent. in fuel.

[24] For letters of approval from generals of division, colonels in command of regiments, medical and other authorities, see Addenda.

[25] A few hundred yards further, where the French review had taken place, on an ill-selected spot, the dust was blinding both to men and horses, the wind being very high.

[26] It was commenced by General Bentinck, continued by General Wyndham and Lord W. Paulet, and finished by General Garrett. It was situated on the spot once inhabited by Sir John Campbell. The Duke of Newcastle also had his tent pitched there during his stay in the Crimea, not fifty yards from the place where General Cathcart and other great heroes are interred. The reader’s humble and respectful servant is not a little proud to have had the honour of having his last culinary encampment, called Soyer’s Villarette, on that celebrated and glorious locality.

[27] Upon my asking General Garrett the reason why the lunch was fixed so early, “So early, say you!” answered the general, laughing. “What do you think? When I asked Major-General Vassileffsky what was the most convenient time for him to pay me a visit, his reply was—from four to five in the morning.”

“Which, no doubt, general, you thought too late, or too early.”

“True enough,” said the general.

[28] Lately published by George Routledge & Co.

[29] I take this opportunity of informing Monsieur le Conte de Maison, to whom I shall do myself the pleasure of sending a copy of this work, that the disappointment was on our side, and that—the captain in particular—all regretted the impossibility of acquainting those gentlemen with our sudden departure.

[30] Yalta, the place from whence he started, was a distance of forty miles by road from Balaklava; the journey, however, took the lad six days, as he did not know the direct road. He also informed me that at night he used to climb and sleep in a tree, fearing the wild animals, feeding on wild fruit and beech-nuts.

[31] For a description of the interior of the Palace, see Addenda.

[32] The Maltese culinary productions, and well-provided markets, I must defer commenting upon till my work entitled “The Culinary Wonders of all Nations” is produced.

[33] A few days after, I was deputed, by order of the Emperor, to visit and report on the public kitchen for the working classes in Paris, called the Fourneaux de l’ImpÉratrice; for description of which see Addenda.

[34] This receipt, so much approved of by the medical authorities, was in daily use for more than fifteen months from the date of its introduction by me.

[35] The following is from the Lancet of August the 22nd, 1857:—“Dyspeptic.—We recommend our correspondent to try some of M. Soyer’s new sauce, called the Sultana Sauce. It is made after the Turkish receipt, its flavour is excellent, and it affords considerable aid in cases of slow and weak digestion.”

[36] If no oven, put the pan in water three-parts up, and give half an hour longer. For public institutions, fish, meat, and game may be cooked in a similar manner, for which receipts refer to my “Shilling Cookery.”

[37] The following receipts were written by me in reply to a request inserted in the Times in January, 1855. Each receipt is for two men, but may be increased by adding to the proportions.

[38] Indian corn contains 750 parts of starch, 205 gluten, 30 sugar, 15 tannin. Potatoes contain 200 parts of starch, 40 gluten, 20 sugar.

[39] If hard water is used, add soda.

[40] For the use of the bones, see Receipt No. 9.

[41] If dripping cannot be had, use four pounds of fat.—See Receipt No. 21.

[42] Hot water is the best to use, if convenient.

[43] If colour is required, add a quart of Receipt No. 21.

[44] If bacon cannot be had, the same quantity of solid meat of any kind will do.

[45] If Indian meal is used, it must be boiled two hours.

[46] Porphyna Purpura—if not to be had, use laver or slook—the ulva lactuca.