Culinary education of the soldier-pupils—Meeting with Miss Nightingale—Reforms in the hospitals—Testimonials—Miss Nightingale’s carriage rescued—That lady’s exertions—Her faith—General LÜders’s visits—Marshal Pelissier—Grand ceremonies—Trip to Yalta—The Alar—A peculiar position—Rescued at last—A pleasant excursion—Prince Woronzoff’s palace—Dinner at sea—Outside the harbour—The banquet—Wanted at head-quarters—A new dish—“The great MacÉdoine À l’Alexandre II., or the Contrast of Peace and War”—Decorations—Reviews—The festival—Reflections. AS two or three months had still to elapse before the final evacuation of the Crimea took place, I employed the interval in completing the culinary education of my soldier-pupils, anxious that they might be able to confer the benefit of my instructions upon others, when the remainder of the stoves should be issued either at home or abroad. By the aid of my receipts, which were to be printed upon parchment, framed, and hung up in every barrack kitchen, the cooks could not fail in the proper performance of their duties. I very much regret that, owing to some misunderstanding, one or two regiments did not receive my personal attendance, though I believe they had the stoves. To the colonels of those regiments I beg to offer this as an apology for the apparent neglect, which I assure those gentlemen I can only attribute to some oversight on the part of those I employed to see the stoves shifted from one regiment to the other. It was no easy matter to traverse such an immense space of ground, upon which above forty regiments were encamped; and the difficulty was increased by my having to deal with different persons in each. Although I had several of my own men to go about and assist me, I Upon my arrival at Balaklava I met Miss Nightingale, who had left Scutari a few days previous to my departure from that place, in order to take the management of two new hospitals, under the superintendence of Dr. Taylor, my Scutari culinary friend. He told me that, to his sorrow, he had completely failed in the construction of the kitchen in those Crimean hospitals, on account of not being able to obtain the necessary utensils, &c. I immediately proposed to set this to rights for him, as I had to build two new extra-diet kitchens at Miss Nightingale’s request. Dr. Taylor accepted my offer, and in less than a week both kitchens were satisfactorily completed, and they were also in full activity. In the extra-diet kitchens Miss Nightingale’s new stoves were adopted. The establishment called the Left Wing Hospital was in charge of the Sisters of Charity; the other, called the Right Wing, in that of Miss Stuart, a most excellent lady, and although of high family, subordinate to Miss Nightingale. During a period of six months, she rendered the greatest service, by ably assisting that lady in her exertions. I substituted my caldrons for the old ones in the large hospital kitchens. Slight wooden sheds were built to shelter them; and the establishments, at last complete, formed two of the most elegant, cleanly, and useful hospital kitchens in the camp—burning but little wood, instead of always running short, as was the case when the common caldrons, placed upon two stones in a dark stone building which could never be kept clean, were in use. The two following letters confirm the truth of my assertions. The one is from Miss Nightingale, and the other from Dr. Taylor:— Scutari Barrack Hospital, July 28th, 1856. I have great pleasure in bearing my testimony to the very essential usefulness of Monsieur Soyer, who, first in the General Hospitals of Scutari, and afterwards in the Camp Hospitals of the Crimea, both general and regimental, restored order where all was unavoidable confusion, as far as he was individually able,—took the soldiers’ rations and patients’ diets as they were, and converted them into wholesome and agreeable food. I have tried his stoves in the Crimean hospitals where I have been employed, and found them answer every purpose of economy and efficiency. Florence Nightingale. Monsieur Soyer’s cooking-stoves have been solely used in the Right and Left Wing Hospitals, Light Infantry Corps, during the last three months for the regimental hospital diets, for which they are admirably adapted as regards despatch, cleanliness, and economy. G. Taylor, M.D., Crimea, 5th July, 1856. It was on the way to these hospitals that the vehicle conveying Miss Nightingale and her nurses was upset, and they all had a most miraculous escape. It was drawn by a mule, and no doubt driven by a donkey, who drove over a large stone, and thus caused the accident. One of the nurses was severely wounded. After this accident, Colonel Macmurdo gave Miss Nightingale the carriage, a sketch of which appeared in the Illustrated London News of the 30th August, 1856. Upon leaving the Crimea, after a long search, I succeeded in rescuing it from the hands of some Tartar Jews, as I considered The extraordinary exertions Miss Nightingale imposed upon herself after receiving this carriage would have been perfectly incredible, if not witnessed by many and well ascertained. I can vouch for the fact, having frequently accompanied her to the hospitals as well as to the monastery. The return from these places at night was a very dangerous experiment, as the road led across a very uneven country. It was still more perilous when snow was upon the ground. I have seen that lady stand for hours at the top of a bleak rocky mountain near the hospitals, giving her instructions, while the snow was I often warned her of the danger she incurred in returning so late at night, with no other escort than the driver. She answered by a smile, which seemed to say, “You may be right, but I have faith.” So impressed was I with a sense of the magnitude of the danger she was daily incurring, that I addressed a letter to a noble duchess, who, I knew, had much influence with her. It was reported that the Russian general, LÜders, intended to pay Marshal Pelissier a visit at the French head-quarters, and that the general and his Staff were to be received at the Tchernaya Bridge at seven in the morning. As I had that day to go to the Highland Brigade at Kamara, accompanied by one of my cooks, we started at five; and after receiving the popottes at the various regiments, I left my artiste and galloped to the bridge. I found about thirty thousand troops drawn up in line, extending from the bridge to General Pelissier’s head-quarters. After the salvo of artillery, a most warm reception was given by General MacMahon to General LÜders, both commanders-in-chief remaining at the French head-quarters to receive him. The cavalcade, consisting of French and Russians, set off at a hard gallop along the line of French troops, which extended about four miles. The discharges of cannon and the firing of musketry never ceased. The day was a brilliant one, and the sun’s rays glittered upon the helmets, swords, cuirasses, and bayonets, reflecting myriads of diamonds in the air. The various uniforms of the Staff which accompanied General LÜders, and in particular that of the Cosaques du Don, gave to this martial and animated scene an Éclat hardly ever witnessed Amongst the excursions we had projected was one which had been some time pending. It was to be a trip to Yalta by water, where we intended to spend a couple of days. A vessel had been provided, the provisions were ordered, and guests in abundance were invited. A series of fine days had followed, and the whole management was placed in the hands of the person with whom the idea of the excursion originated, the Rev. Mr. Parker. What man amongst the numbers in the Crimea did not know that distinguished, enterprising, and worthy man? His fame extended far and wide, and he was equally celebrated for his benevolence and intelligence; and he never saw a difficulty in anything he undertook, from the building of a church to an hospital, a hut, kitchen, or an ice-house. Workmen and materials were found by him, people hardly knew how or where. Under his clerical wand, wooden palaces were erected, not without difficulty, but still the work was accomplished. If any good provisions arrived in the harbour, the worthy minister was the first to hear of it, and, to oblige his friends, made all inquiries and obtained every information respecting price and quality. Like all clever men, he was fond of good living, and was not at all a bad judge of the good things of this life. It was during the time that he officiated at Balaklava, that the church, which once had the appearance of a barn, was changed into a handsome religious edifice. Sebastopol had fallen, and, as a trophy, one of the bells of the Greek church ornamented his building, and called the faithful to their duty as regularly as the peal of any parish church. He was, in fact, the perfection of the aumÔnier du rÉgiment; but, as in the case of all great geniuses, now and then, The day for the excursion had been fixed, postponed, and was again decided upon. For this change of plan I cannot account; no doubt it was owing to some unavoidable cause. At length the day was finally settled; there was to be no more postponing—off we must go. Our vessel was called the Alar, and she belonged to Mr. Crockford. As she was very small and short of accommodation, she was soon filled above and below. The evening before we were to start, the news of a great event for the following day was published in General Orders. It was to the effect that General LÜders would honour General Codrington with his presence at a grand review. This favour was not so highly appreciated by the nautical tourists as by their gallant Commander-in-chief, as at that time it materially interfered with their anticipated excursion. At all events, a serious discussion took place as to whether the excursion would or would not be postponed on that account. The answer “would not!” resounded in the camp from regiment to regiment, like a mot d’ordre, and the final order to all was, not to be on board a minute after eight o’clock; but the Alar, by way of punctuality, started at half-past seven. I sent two of my cooks to the vessel, but they never saw anything of the boat. A few minutes before eight o’clock, the Rev. Mr. Parker, myself, and others, got into a Maltese boat to join the steamer; instead of which, the steamer joined us. Not thanking either the Alar nor her captain for their trouble in coming to us instead of allowing us to go to them, the reverend gentleman and three more bravely boarded her, and in so doing kicked our bark away, and left us, in consequence of the swell caused by the motion of the paddle-wheels, very unsafely dancing an entirely new hornpipe in the harbour of Balaklava. At last, by the assistance of a large wave which nearly capsized us all, I managed to get hold of the man-rope by one hand; this happened to be the left one, so I could not raise myself on board, and there I was left hanging over the infuriated waves, the I replied, “I should have preferred being later still, and not have come at all.” When the incident was known on board, it caused much merriment among our fellow-adventurers. As we were going on pleasure, all were allowed to laugh at the various adventures, as well as misadventures, of the party so I laughed, and all laughed, soon afterwards, and very heartily. We were no sooner out of the harbour, than the good ship Alar, which had not received her proper quantum of breakfast or ballast in her wooden or iron stomach, began her hanky-panky rolling tricks, which never ceased from the time we started till our return. Breakfast was ready and upon the table; but, for some unaccountable reason, no one appeared ready for breakfast. As we were out upon a pleasure excursion, each person was at liberty to enjoy himself in his own way. Some did this by remaining upon deck, others by looking overboard, &c., till at length the generous sun, taking pity upon us, threw out his beams and guided us round the beautiful rocky coast of the Balaklava and Lukan shores. A few glasses of champagne were circulated, healths were Indeed, reader, I have not yet had time to introduce our fair companions to your notice; but I will do so shortly. Some of them actually went so far as to ask me what I thought was good for dinner. “Upon my word,” said I to my fair interlocutor, “I do not know what will be good, madam, but I’ll tell you what will be bad. Look behind you at that black cloud which seems to follow us so closely: I have no doubt that is a squall coming, which will soon spoil our bill of fare as well as our appetites.” In about half-an-hour we came in sight of the beautiful Palace of Lukan, belonging to Prince Woronzoff. A short time before, we had anticipated landing and being able to dine in the gardens. This was rendered impossible, as the weather had assumed a very tempestuous aspect, and bore every appearance of a violent storm. Many began to think of a second wreck, and quite lost the idea of dining. The steamer was put about in a very unsociable gale of wind, which, thank God, dropped shortly after, and allowed us, after several attempts, to return safely to our harbour. This, considering the state the Alar was in after the accident she had met with, she ought not to have left, especially upon a pleasure-trip. My friend, Mr. Frederick Crockford, who so kindly lent his boat, assisted me, and we set to work during our stormy return to prepare the dinner, which we had decided should be got ready, although almost every one on board was ill. So we began our fantastic and gymnastic culinary exertions by looking up the stores; and by dint of a wonderful amount of animal and physical perseverance, we managed to dish up two turkeys, a number of fowls, hams, roast lamb, tongues, roast beef, plum-puddings, salad, dessert, &c. &c., and cut bread enough for more than À discrÉtion. The reader will please to observe that it was by this time late in the afternoon, and the Alar sylph was rolling quite sufficiently to prevent any willing turkey from remaining upon the dish, A rumour was circulated that we should not be allowed to enter at all, the Alar being a merchant-vessel. This was our fate till about six o’clock, when signals were made for her to enter. We availed ourselves of this permission, and in twenty minutes the two large tables were set out À la mariniÈre. Everybody was glad to partake of the most welcome repast ever bestowed upon a party after the enjoyment of so charming a day of pleasure. The salade mayonnaise was voted excellent. Champagne was gaily flowing in bowls, basins, teacups, goblets, &c. Healths were proposed; her Majesty’s first—next that of the Allied armies—then that of the Emperor of the French, Mr. Crockford’s and mine, in honour of the salade mayonnaise; and a vote of thanks was returned to the Rev. Mr. Parker, for the extremely pleasant day he had been the cause of our enjoying, especially the dinner in the harbour he had so well provided, which soon made us forget our nautical tribulations. I have almost forgotten the members of the fair sex, whose health was proposed in the first place. They had been very ill all day. About eleven, all, except myself, had left the Alar in the full conviction of having enjoyed themselves very much indeed. Among the party, which would have been far too numerous, had not circumstances prevented “Alar ahoy! Is Monsieur Soyer still on board?” “Yes,” was the answer. In a few seconds, a gentleman, whom I recognised as my friend Captain Brown of the Ottowa, stepped on board. “Hallo, captain!” I exclaimed, “what ever has brought you on board at this time of night?” “I will tell you. They have sent for you from head-quarters, and you have been sought in all directions. Captain Ponsonby has been looking everywhere for you. A grand dÉjeÛner is to be given to-morrow in honour of General LÜders’ visit. I happened to hear of it where I dined and knowing the Alar had returned with you on board, I have come to inform you that your aid is required. By the bye, you were suspended a long time this morning between wind and water: I made so sure you could not hold on much longer, that I had one of my sailors ready to jump over and pick you up.” “Thanks, captain, for two eminent services in one day. I cannot, however, go to head-quarters till morning, as I have no pony at Balaklava.” “All right,” said he. “Call upon Major Ross in the morning; he will let you have all you require.” “At daybreak I will be there.” “Mind, the lunch is to be ready at two o’clock.” “I shall not be able to assist much, as there will hardly be time to turn round. However, good-night, captain, and a thousand thanks.” “I’m off in a few hours for Constantinople,” he called The sentinels, as usual, cried—“All’s well.” I must say, I did not think it was all well with me. “What can I do,” said I to myself, “for an event of historical importance?” Neither Mr. Crockford nor the captain could assist me, when an idea struck me:—“If you can’t give me an idea,” said I to my friends, “at any rate lend me a dish.” “That I will,” said the captain. “Recollect, I want a large one.” “You had the largest for your salad yesterday.” “That one will do; it will hold enough for twenty-five persons. “Then here goes,” said I, writing. “To-day I shall dress in it the MacÉdoine LÜdersienne À l’Alexandre II.” “A very good name in honour of the event,” said Mr. Crockford. “But pray, of what is it to be composed?” “Oh! for that,” said I, “if I were to implore the Genius of Gastronomy, from Lucullus to Apicius and Vitellius, or Vatel to Ude and CarÊme, I could get nothing from them but inspiration; while what I require is something substantial, and not artificial. It strikes me that a word from you to your head man at Kadikoi (as you will not be there to-morrow) would do more for me in a few minutes than the whole of those defunct celebrities, whom I am not now inclined to trouble upon so material a subject. Pray give me carte blanche to get anything you may have and I require for the composition of this modern Babylon, which must be constructed upon a base sufficiently strong to resist the joint attack of the heads of three of the most powerful armies in the world, and only be destroyed after having conquered the conqueror’s place d’armes, the stomach, so called in military parlance.” The order was readily given by my friend Mr. Crockford, and we then lay down to sleep, being both completely exhausted with the fatigues of what was called a day of pleasure. We had hardly closed our eyelids, when morning caused them to be reopened; so up we got. My friend started for Constantinople, and I for head-quarters. My novel dish was completed, and carried to head-quarters by two soldiers; and at a quarter to two I personally placed my culinary wonder upon the table. It was called The sauce was composed of six bottles of salad oil, one of Tarragon vinegar, half a bottle of Chili vinegar, two boxes of preserved cream (whipped), four ounces of sugar, six eschalots, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard, and a quarter of an ounce of Oriental herbs which are quite unknown in England. The dining-room, decorated under the artistic superintendence of Captain Ponsonby, presented a ravishing ensemble well adapted to the occasion. It was hung, ceiling and all, with the Allied flags, to which the Russian standard, so long absent, had been happily reinstated in the bond of friendship and civilization. Those few pieces of printed cloth spoke volumes to my mind. These adopted colours of different nations had not waved together for a long while, and their playful movements, caused by a fresh breeze, which seemed to have purified itself in passing swiftly over the cheerful vineyard attached to head-quarters, pleased me very much. I was left almost alone in that ever-memorable spot (every one having gone to the review), giving the last coup-d’oeil, with Captain Ponsonby and the maÎtre Professionally, I was doubly proud of the honour of contributing my mite of industry to this California of grandeur and great events. My monster MacÉdoine was placed in the centre of the table, and, though only a few persons were present, was much admired. “In a few minutes,” said I to myself, “those great men whose names are echoed and re-echoed throughout the world by the trumpet-blast of fame will be here, not only gazing upon my impromptu chef-d’oeuvre, but, I hope, also freely partaking of it—and, while enjoying the pleasures of the table, cementing the sentiments of peace and of friendship.” So much was my mind absorbed by the superficial, that I had almost forgotten the material. The words, “the review is over, and the generals are coming,” recalled my wandering senses. A gorgeous cavalcade was seen approaching, headed by four generals-in-chief in full uniform, and their respective Staffs, wearing their decorations, followed by above thirty generals. A few minutes after, I was attending upon Generals Pelissier, LÜders, and Sir W. Codrington, who were sitting together—General Pelissier on the left and General LÜders on the right of Sir William. The following persons were sitting at the same table:—General della Marmora and Sir Colin Campbell were facing; and at the same table sat Admiral Freemantle; Generals MacMahon, Martinprey, Wyndham, Garrett, Barnard, Lord Rokeby, Lord W. Paulet, Cameron; Colonels Scariatini and M. Amazzoff, aides-de-camp to General LÜders; and the aides of the other generals. My anticipations were realized; for no sooner had the guests taken their seats than the conversation became more animated. I had placed at the apex of my pyramidal MacÉdoine a small card, with the dedication written upon it. Sir W. Codrington handed it to General LÜders, who, after showing it to several of his suite, requested permission to keep it as a reminiscence of the day. This request was granted by Sir William with a smile. The entreÉs, roasts, and the entremÊts had been handed round, and a serious attack upon my LÜdersienne commenced, almost every guest partaking of it twice. Captain Ponsonby requested me to remove it, as several gentlemen at the other table wished to taste it. General Pelissier, with whom I had the honour of conversing longer than with any one else, was in an excellent humour, and full of that vivacity and wit so characteristic. He bantered me several times for not having stoned the olives which formed part of the MacÉdoine. I told him that time would not permit of this, as I had received such short notice of the banquet, and that I went the evening before on an excursion by water to Lukan. At the same time, I expressed my regret to Sir William at not being at home when sent for. “Never mind, Monsieur Soyer,” replied Sir William. “I am, at all events, very happy to see you here, and thank you kindly for your exertions.” General Pelissier again addressed me: “You may say what you like, Monsieur Soyer, but you might as well have stoned the olives.” “Very true, general, if time had allowed. It is all very well for you to take the Malakhoff in a few minutes, but it took me four hours to make that dish.” At which reply he could not help laughing. “Your friend General Barnard,” said he, pointing to that officer, who was sitting at the bottom of the table, “would like to taste it. Go and offer him some.” I did so; but the general had been served. I then made a tour round the table, asking each guest, above thirty in number, whether he had been attended to. The time was getting short, and another review—that of the English army—had to come off. The iced champagne had performed a grand rÔle during the repast; all seemed highly gratified and full of animation. What a burst of enthusiasm was elicited when General LÜders rose, and proposed the health of her Majesty the Queen of England and that of the French Emperor! which enthusiasm was renewed when Sir William Codrington responded by proposing that of the Emperor Alexander. The mot d’ordre was given, and all were soon mounted, and proceeded to the review, at which, having terminated my culinary duties, I assisted as a spectator, arriving just time enough to have a glance at the spectacle, which to my mind was superior in point of effect to that of the magnificent French army in the morning. It was in a splendid square; while the French army, though more numerous, being in a line, covered more ground, but produced less effect. I remarked this to General della Marmora, with whom I was conversing. He seemed to be of my opinion. The Scotch, with their bagpipes merrily playing, were then filing past the Etat-Major, and the vibrating sounds of their wild mountain music impressed itself for ever on my ear. It was their last song on the Crimean shore. A few minutes more, and all was over. General LÜders entered his carriage, and started full gallop, followed by his Staff. General Codrington and suite lined the fields on either side the road along which the carriage passed. On reaching the Balaklava road, which crosses the high mountain leading to the Guards’ camp, the Russian general made a full stop; so did Sir W. Codrington and suite. They bade each other adieu; and after General LÜders had returned thanks for the excellent reception he had received, Sir William said, “I hope, general, you are not over-tired?” “No, not at all, thank you. I only felt rather cold standing still during the last review.” This was spoken in French. The Russian cavalcade galloped away towards the It was getting quite dark; the weather, which had been so warm in the morning, turned very cold—the sky looked grey, and not a soul was to be seen. I ascended the rocky and steep mountain on horseback. A few minutes after, I was in lonely solitude on the top of the plateau. Not a sign, of life was to be seen or heard; graveyards alone ornamented this desolate spot. “What a curious life mine is!” said I, musing. “Compare the last forty-eight hours with the time when I was hanging by one hand, suspended between life and death, from the man-rope of the Alar, in the harbour of Balaklava.” It reminded me of a rocket, which, while soaring brightly in its flight towards the sky, shines radiant for a few seconds only, and then vanishes in space. |