Alexis Soyer

The extra-diet kitchens closed—One large kitchen—Plan for keeping the dinners hot—General satisfaction—The General Hospital—Summons to Kululee—Labours there—Palace and Hyder Pacha Hospitals—Ordered to proceed to the Crimea—Model field-stove—Conversation with Lord W. Paulet—A new Purveyor-in-chief—Companions for the voyage to the Crimea—An evening at Dr. Macgregor’s—Return home—A midnight scene—The dying soldier—The guardian angel—Mr. Robertson, the new purveyor—Final tour of inspection—General Vivian and his aide-de-camp—Parting testimony.

A FEW days afterwards, I closed all the extra-diet kitchens, with the exception of the one under the direction of Miss Nightingale, and another under the direction of Dr. Taylor, having discharged about twenty soldier cooks, who consumed daily ten times more fuel than was required; this at the same time much deteriorated the quality of the extra diets, which required the greatest attention as regarded the regulation of the heat. We prepared everything in the one large kitchen—viz., breakfast, dinner, tea, extra-diets, the cooking for the orderlies, &c., included. Having got all under my own eye, I placed two civilian cooks in charge of the extra-diets, with six soldiers to assist them, who might at the same time be instructed, instead of the twelve before required—thus simplifying the whole process.

The only difficulty that remained was, how to send the dinners hot to the various wards, on account of the distance being so great. Miss Nightingale submitted a very excellent plan, which was adopted with success. It is very similar to that in use in the French hospitals, with this difference, that we introduced double cases in which to carry boiling water, thus keeping the contents of the several divisions hot much longer. Two of these cases were sufficient for each ward, and after they had been in use for a week, no establishment could be in better order. Had there been room in the hospital we could have accommodated as many more patients with the greatest ease, the receipts being regulated by weight and measure, from an ounce for certain articles, to seven or eight cwt. for others. I must also observe, in thanking Mr. Milton, the purveyor, that he rendered me the full amount of assistance he had promised, and without such powerful aid, as well as that of Mr. Tucker, it would have been impossible for me to have made so much progress in so short a period.

In the first place, the provisions were improved—the old fowls got unexpectedly younger, and the fuel was better. I was thus perfectly satisfied, and so was everybody else—medical officers as well as patients. As soon as the alterations at the General Hospital were completed, and which made a very good kitchen, being clean, light, and commodious, instead of being ill-adapted for the purpose, as I at first found it, I paid a second visit to Doctor Lawson, the chief medical officer of this hospital. I then tried some experiments before him and numerous other doctors similar to those I had previously made at the Barrack Hospital, and with the same success; and I must say, as far as the extra diet went, in justice to Doctor O’Flaherty, the under-superintendent, with a great deal less trouble than I experienced at the Barrack Hospital; Doctor O’Flaherty having carefully watched over and disposed of that very important department. I next went to Kululee, then in charge of the new lady manager, Miss Hutton, who had replaced Miss Stanley. I received the following letter from that lady, and at once placed myself at her disposal.

Kululee Hospital, April, 14th, 1855.

Monsieur,—I hear that you are on the point of leaving Scutari. When may we hope that you will come to Kululee? A few days of your instruction and superintendence might effect more good than I can express.

I am, yours, &c.,
Emily Hutton.

The day after the receipt of this I went to Kululee, where I had the pleasure of seeing Miss Hutton for the first time, and met with a most gracious reception from that lady and her assistants. We next visited the General Hospital upon the heights, where I was introduced to the matron and the Irish Sisters of Charity. These ladies were very anxious to obtain some utensils and have a new extra-diet kitchen built. Captain Gordon’s assistant made a small sketch of the place, and undertook to have it done at once, being aware of its necessity. I left quite satisfied that it would be immediately put in execution.

It only remained for me to give a list of the utensils required to the purveyor-in-chief; and shortly after, in company with that gentleman, I paid another visit to the hospital, where, thanks to his attention, they had a most effective kitchen. I regretted that the large kitchen for the convalescent belonged to the Turkish authorities, as it could not be altered to my liking. Nothing could be altered without an order from the Turkish officials, and to obtain this, would have taken as long a time as the duration of the war. Upon leaving the General Hospital, we visited the Barrack Hospital, where we found every department perfect—the orders given upon our former visit with Lady Stratford de Redcliffe having been carried out to the letter. I was now introduced to Doctor Humphrey, who had been appointed in lieu of another medical gentleman. He accompanied us round the hospital, and kindly offered me a bed for the night, which I accepted—having to cook for the patients the next morning, as well as to instruct some soldier-cooks who were at the convalescent hospital, called the Riding School. The next day I was in full action, and received visits from every doctor and Sister of Charity, who all approved of the diets, as well as my new teapot, in which I made in the space of ten minutes, out of the ration tea, enough strong tea for about thirty persons; thus effecting a saving of at least ten per cent. At the desire of Miss Hutton, I afterwards sent a civilian cook to the Barrack Hospital, to carry out the system, and to set the various kitchen departments in order. But I must observe in full justice to that lady, who had succeeded Miss Stanley, that since my last visit to these hospitals, every department under her care was so much improved that hardly anything was required to perfect them. Although the hospitals were full of patients, the lady assistants who attended this duty appeared to devote their utmost energies to the benevolent and humane cause for which they had left their native homes.

Thence I went to the Palace Hospital, Hyder Pacha, and having had a new kitchen built for the use of the officers, placed a good civilian cook in it, and with the assent and assistance of Doctors Cumming and M’Elray, the doctor-in-chief, composed a bill of fare for their mess. Having arranged everything in the various hospitals to my satisfaction, I was honoured by several visits from Lady Stratford de Redcliffe, who expressed her own and Lord Stratford’s approbation of my management, and both afterwards took a most lively interest in the success of my proceedings. I then was requested by Lord Panmure to proceed to the Crimea for the same purpose, and also to try and improve the system of camp cookery for the soldiers. I therefore informed Lord William Paulet of my anticipated departure for the seat of war, showing him, at the same time, my small model field stove. Having explained its principle, he expressed his approval of its simplicity. I said, “I expect ten of those stoves, which, upon arrival, I wish to have forwarded to the Crimea. I have managed to make use of the Turkish coppers at the hospital, which answer perfectly well, and of the existence of which I was not aware before leaving England. They are the same as those adopted in the hospital at Smyrna, and, although too large for camp use, would do very well for my trial before the Crimean authorities. If these stoves are approved of, those for the army on march or in camp can be made thus—viz., two for a company, both of which can be carried on the back of one mule, with sufficient wood inside for two days. When on march, they will cook either under cover or in the open air, and in all weathers, and the quantity of fuel required will be a mere trifle compared with the present consumption. Thus you perceive, my lord, that two small ones will cook for a full company of a hundred or a hundred and twenty men, though I am aware a company seldom exceeds a hundred in number. This will not matter much; and it is better to have them too large than too small. We can also have smaller ones for picket and outpost duty.”

“You are right, Monsieur Soyer; and I must say your plan appears very sensible and well conceived. I heartily wish you the same success in the Crimea that you have met with here.”

“In order to prevent any inconvenience from my departure from the hospital, I will put all in good trim, and leave the whole under the superintendence of a corporal who is now well acquainted with my system; and I shall request several doctors to send occasionally for soup, broth, pudding, &c., unknown to the cook, to see if any alteration takes place after my departure; and perhaps your lordship would oblige me by doing the same. This will make them attentive to the proportions required and the proper management of the cooking.”

“I assure you I often send for a basin of the soldiers’ soup for my lunch, it is so very good.”

“I do not think you will find any difference after my departure, although, many persons say that it is all very well so long as I am here, but that as soon as my back is turned it will be as bad as ever. Colonel Dennis, in particular, will not be persuaded; I will vouch for the contrary, as my receipts are all done by weight and measure, and that causes much less trouble. Before I came they had never done working, and all for want of a proper system of management. Doctor Cumming and myself have talked over the subject, and we have no fear of the result. The only thing required is for the serjeant in charge to see all properly attended to in the morning.”

“I shall be happy to give you a letter to Lord Raglan, with whom I suppose you are acquainted.”

“I am; but it is above twelve years since I had the pleasure of seeing his lordship, and that was at the Reform Club; therefore a letter from your lordship, in addition to one from the Minister-at-War, cannot fail to be very acceptable.”

“It shall be ready for you to-morrow morning. By the way, I hope you do not intend to go before the new purveyor-in-chief comes. It is most important that you should see him.”

“Indeed! I was not aware that we were to have a new purveyor-in-chief. I very much regret it—but is Mr. Milton going?”

“Of course he is: he only came out here till another could be appointed. He cannot remain, as he holds a very important appointment at the War-Office, and his presence is required in London. I should advise you to see him, and mention about your stoves. He will forward them to Balaklava for you.”

“I will do so, my lord. I much regret taking up so much of your valuable time.”

“Do not mention that, Monsieur Soyer. This is business, and to my mind of great importance.”

“A fresh tribulation!” thought I; “a new purveyor-in-chief, who, in my absence, may upset everything I have done!” I went immediately to Miss Nightingale, to inquire whether she had heard of this change. I met Mr. Bracebridge there, and he told me that he had known it for some time. He informed me that Miss Nightingale and himself were going to the Crimea, and proposed that we should all start together. I, of course, was much pleased at the news, as I knew that Miss Nightingale would be of great assistance to me in the hospitals in the Crimea. I then promised Mr. Bracebridge to be ready on the day fixed for our departure. Mr. Bracebridge said, “Miss Nightingale is engaged at present. Do you wish to see her?”

“No; I am going to Mr. Milton, to speak about the stoves I mentioned the other day, and to inquire when the new purveyor-in-chief is coming.”

“Oh, I can tell you that—he will be here to-morrow without fail.”

“That will do nicely. We shall just have time to become acquainted, and settle everything before my departure to the seat of war.”

I found Mr. Milton preparing for his departure.

“Well, Monsieur Soyer, have you any message for London?” said he, with a jovial face and a smile.

“It is with great regret that I have just heard of your intended departure, and the arrival of a new purveyor-in-chief.”

“I assure you that I have had quite enough of Scutari and its bother, and much prefer the London fog to the bright sun of the East and its accessory annoyances. The fact is, I was only here pro tem., till some one could be permanently appointed, but I did not expect to be recalled so early. Yesterday I received my feuille de route, as you call it in French, from the War Office. I hope to have the pleasure of introducing you to Mr. Robertson, my successor, to-morrow, and the day after I shall probably be off.”

“I shall start a few days after you, but not exactly in the same direction.”

“Where are you going, Monsieur Soyer?”

“Why, are you not aware that Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and myself are going on Saturday next to the Crimea?”

“Oh, that’s right! Some one was saying you would not go to the camp.”

“What could make them say so? Not fear on my part—for of that I never dream; besides, our lives are more in danger here in the hospital than in the open air. The observation I made to the Minister-at-War, respecting the camp, was this,—that unless I could invent a cooking apparatus for the army to supersede the tin kettles I had seen at Chobham, it would be useless to attempt to teach the men to cook. An officer who happened to be present observed, ‘You’re right. Monsieur Soyer; they appear very unfit for a heavy company.—I have remarked that myself.’ By-the-bye, have you seen the French canteens—marmites, as they call them? They are very superior, and much larger than ours, besides being made of better metal. One soldier is, however, required to cook for every sixteen men with them, and they present the same difficulty with respect to open-air cooking.[11] This is especially the case on a long march—while those stoves, the model of which I had submitted to the War Office, were quite free from any such inconvenience.”

“They will be ordered,” said Mr. Milton, “as soon as they are approved of by the Crimean authorities.”

“I am glad to hear you say so; but my greatest anxiety now, Mr. Milton, is to see the new purveyor-in-chief, and have a fair understanding with him, so that during my absence he may not undo what you and I have so successfully commenced.”

“You may depend upon it that I shall advise him for the best on that subject,” said Mr. Milton.

The evening was spent cheerfully at Doctor Macgregor’s. The American clock upon the doctor’s chimney-piece deceived his guests, if not the doctor, who was at once good-natured, amiable, and uncommonly fond of anecdote, and, like a true Scotchman, professed an immense deal of veneration of, and attachment to, his whisky-toddy. “The day,” he used to say, “is for manual labour, the evening for comfort and sociality; but, alas! in my case, night and day are the same—I may be called at any hour; therefore, the longer you favour me with your company, my friends, the better I shall like it, you may depend.”

We now perceived that the clock was under the powerful influence of the doctor’s “treatment;” nevertheless, common sense induced us all to rise and leave, and after a hearty shaking of hands, and no end of good wishes, we parted. On arriving at the second door, which opened upon one of the grand avenues of sick and wounded, we retired in a silent and mournful procession—except the groans of the sufferers, nothing was heard but the friction of our boots upon the stone floor, already worn into a kind of groove between the rows of beds upon which lay the sick and wounded, caused by the constant passing and repassing of the doctors, Sisters of Mercy, orderlies, and other officials in attendance upon the patients.

As we turned the angle of the long corridor to the right, we perceived, at a great distance, a faint light flying from bed to bed, like a will-o’-the-wisp flickering in a meadow on a summer’s eve, which at last rested upon one spot; or as a bee sporting from flower to flower, till it at length lights upon a delicious floral banquet, which the insect determines not to leave till it has extracted the last drop of honey from the devoted pistil.

But, alas! as we approached, we perceived our mistake. A group in the shape of a silhouette unfolded its outline in light shade. As we came nearer and nearer, the picture burst upon us. A dying soldier was half reclining upon his bed. Life, you could observe, was fast bidding him adieu; Death, that implacable deity, was anxiously waiting for his soul to convey it to its eternal destination.

But stop! near him was a guardian angel, sitting at the foot of his bed, and most devotedly engaged pencilling down his last wishes to be despatched to his homely friends or relations. A watch and a few more trinkets were consigned to the care of the writer; a lighted lamp was held by another person, and threw a painful yellowish coloris over that mournful picture, which a Rembrandt alone could have traced, but which everybody, as long as the world lasts, would have understood, felt, and admired. It was then near two o’clock in the morning.

MISS. NIGHTINGALE AND THE DYING SOLDIER.
MISS. NIGHTINGALE AND THE DYING SOLDIER.

Approaching, I made inquiries of Miss Nightingale as to the complaint of her patient, when she replied in French, that the poor fellow was given up by the doctors, and was not likely to get through the night; “so I have been engaged noting down his last wishes, in order to forward them to his relatives.”

The next morning, Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and myself had a long conversation respecting our plan of operations in the coming campaign. Having settled everything to our satisfaction, I once more went round the hospitals; and, upon reaching home, I heard that Mr. Robertson had arrived. He had been represented to me, by some person or other, as a very old and infirm man, wearing green spectacles. At the time I heard this, I was in the company of a very illustrious personage, who was visiting my kitchen, and he also listened to the serjeant giving this description, and very justly observed, that for such a fatiguing situation a young man was required. “Now,” he continued, pointing from the kitchen door to the building, “observe the tremendous distance it is from one end of the building to the other. A purveyor should go round once a-day, independent of the business of his office. I tell you what—I have found out this much myself, that the head, when properly screwed on, lasts much longer than the legs; and when both are required at the same time, there is an additional strain.”

While we were discussing this important subject, in walked Mr. Milton, accompanied by an old gentleman, as described by the serjeant, and a third person. To my surprise, Mr. Robertson was not the reverend old man. He happened to be one of Mr. Robertson’s friends, instead of himself.[12] Instead of being an old man, I found him the very person wanted—about thirty years of age—full of vigour and intelligence. In a short time I was perfectly acquainted with his qualifications for the office to which he had been appointed—requiring, as I said before, so much bodily exercise. The few days I had to remain at Scutari enabled us to come to a perfect understanding.

“Monsieur Soyer,” said Mr. Milton, “I now leave you in very good hands. I have explained everything to Mr. Robertson respecting your department, and I am certain he will be kind enough to attend to it in your absence. I am off for England to-morrow; therefore, fare you well; take care of yourself in the Crimea. I have also spoken to Mr. Robertson about your stoves; he will forward them to the Crimea as soon as they arrive.”

“I wish you a pleasant journey, Mr. Milton. I hope to have the pleasure of seeing you in London.”

Mr. Robertson accompanied me round the various stores, and after passing all in review, and noting what would be required in future, we parted. I felt fully convinced that my former efforts would not be destroyed, as I had at first feared. The next day we went to the General and the Palace Hospitals and Kululee, and made similar arrangements. I now felt almost free of the hospitals, though my intention was to run down from the Crimea now and then to have a look at them, as the least mismanagement would create confusion. I then requested Lord W. Paulet to devote a few hours, before my departure, to visiting the other hospitals, and he very kindly fixed upon that afternoon. Mr. Robertson, Lord W. Paulet, the Hon. Captain Bourke, his lordship’s aide-de-camp, and myself rode over to the various hospitals, and I pointed out the improvements I had made, all of which Lord W. Paulet considered very effective and judicious, and promised that they should be followed up, referring me at the same time to Mr. Robertson. “That gentleman,” he said, “is now major-domo in the purveyor’s department.”

I told Lord W. Paulet that Mr. Robertson and myself had already settled everything, and we rode back to the Barrack Hospital. Lord W. Paulet very kindly invited me to dine with him, and I much regretted that time did not allow of my accepting the invitation, as we had to leave the next morning, and I wished to see Miss Nightingale and Mr. Bracebridge; but I promised to return and spend a part of the evening with him, which I did, and very merrily too. I must say that, in all the transactions connected with my mission to the Crimea, to no gentleman am I more indebted than to Lord W. Paulet, whose gracious reception, continued kindness, and the extreme confidence he placed in me, gave me such extraordinary encouragement that it greatly tended to my success: a failure might have been the result, had he treated me otherwise. Lord W. Paulet gave me the promised letters, and signed the following paper:—

I then returned my thanks and bade his lordship adieu. Thus terminated my Scutari duties, which were afterwards carried on to my entire satisfaction under the direction of Mr. Robertson, and supported by Lord W. Paulet; later by General Storks, now Sir Henry, who succeeded his lordship.

Shortly after the opening of my kitchen, I received a visit from General Vivian and his aide-de-camp, Captain Ramsey. During his visit, Miss Nightingale entered the kitchen. I then introduced the General to her, and we had a very animated and interesting conversation relating to hospital treatment, &c. The General expressed his high gratification at being introduced to Miss Nightingale, and I then had the honour of showing him through the hospital, not omitting the other kitchens, where the cooking was still carried on upon the old system, as I had not had, in that short space of time, an opportunity to remedy it. The General and Captain Ramsey expressed their high approval and satisfaction of the great improvement I had already made in the culinary department of that monster establishment. I may, perhaps, be pardoned for being vain enough to quote the gallant General’s remark prior to his leaving my kitchen, which remark encouraged me so much in the prosecution of my labours. It was thus:—

“Monsieur Soyer, Miss Nightingale’s name and your own will be for ever associated in the archives of this memorable war.”