CHAPTER XXVI.

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African Flora—Flora of Australia, New Zealand, Norfolk Island, and of Polynesia.

The northern coast of Africa, and the range of the Atlas generally, may be regarded as a zone of transition, where the plants of southern Europe are mingled with those peculiar to the country; half the plants of northern Africa are also found in the other countries on the shores of the Mediterranean. Of 60 trees and 248 shrubs which grow there, 100 only are peculiar to Africa, and about 18 of these belong to its tropical flora. There are about six times as many herbaceous plants as there are trees and shrubs; and in the Atlas mountains, as in other chains, the perennial plants are much more numerous than annuals. Evergreens predominate, and are the same as those on the other shores of the Mediterranean. The pomegranite, the locust-tree, the oleander, and the palmetto abound; and the cistus tribe give a distinct character to the flora. The sandarach, or Thuia articulata, peculiar to the northern side of the Atlas mountains and to Cyrenaica, yields close-grained hard timber, used for the ceiling of mosques, and is supposed to be the shittim-wood of Scripture. The Atlas produces seven or eight species of oak, various pines, especially the Pinus maritima, and forests of the Aleppo pine in Algiers. The sweet-scented arborescent heath and Erica scoparia are native here, also in the Canary Islands and the Azores, where the tribe of house-leeks characterizes the botany. There are 534 phanerogamous plants, or such as have the parts of fructification evident, in the Canary Islands; of these, 310 are indigenous, the rest African: the Pinus canariensis is peculiar, and also the DracÆnÆ, which grow in perfection here. The stem of the DracÆna Draco, of the Villa Oratava in Teneriffe, measures 46 feet in circumference at the base of the tree, which is 75 feet high. It is known to have been an object of great antiquity in the year 1402, and is still alive, bearing blossoms and fruit. If it be not an instance of the partial location of plants, there must have been intercourse between India and the Canary Islands in very ancient times.

Plants with bluish-green succulent leaves are characteristic of tropical Africa and its islands; and though the group of the Canaries has plants in common with Spain, Portugal, Africa, and the Azores, yet there are many species, and even genera, which are found in them only; and the height of the mountains causes much variety in the vegetation.

On the continent, south of the Atlas, a great change of soil and climate takes place; the drought on the borders of the desert is so excessive that no trees can resist it, rain hardly ever falls, and the scorching blasts from the south speedily dry up any moisture that may exist; yet, in consequence of what descends from the mountains, the date-palm forms large forests along their base, which supply the inhabitants with food, and give shelter to crops which could not otherwise grow. The date-palm, each tree of which yields from 150 to 160 pounds weight of fruit, grows naturally, and is also cultivated, through northern Africa. It has been carried to the Canary Islands, Arabia, the Persian Gulf, and to Nice, the most northern limit of the palm-tribe. Stunted plants are the only produce of the desert, yet large tracts are covered with the Pennisetum dichotomum, a harsh prickly grass, which, together with the Alhagi maurorum, is the food of camels.

The plants peculiar to Egypt are acacias, mimosas, cassias, tamarisks, the NymphÆa Lotus, the blue Lotus, the Papyrus, from which probably the first substance used for writing upon was made, and has left its name to that we now use; also the Zizyphus or jujub, various mesembryanthemums, and most of the plants of Barbary grow here. The date-palm is not found higher on the Nile than Thebes, where it gives place to the doom-palm or Cucifera Thebaica, peculiar to this district, and singular as being the only palm that has a branched stem.

The eastern side of equatorial Africa is less known than the western, but the floras of the two countries, under the same latitude, have little affinity: on the eastern side the RubiaceÆ, the EuphorbiÆ, a race peculiarly African, and the MalvaceÆ, are most frequent. The genus Danais of the coffee tribe distinguishes the vegetation of Abyssinia, also the Dombeya, a species of vine, various jessamines, a beautiful species of honeysuckle; and Bruce says a caper-tree grows to the height of the elm, with white blossoms, and fruit as large as a peach. The daroo, or Ficus sycomorus, and the arak-tree, are native. The kollquall, or Euphorbia antiquorum, grows 40 feet high on the plain of Baharnagach, in the form of an elegant branched candelabrum, covered with scented fruit. The kantuffa or thornby shrub, is so great a nuisance from its spines, that even animals avoid it. The Erythrina Abyssinica bears a poisonous red bean with a black spot, used by the shangalla and other tribes for ages as a weight for gold, and by the women as necklaces. Mr. Rochet has lately brought some seeds of new grain from Shoa, that are likely to be a valuable addition to European cerealia.

The vegetation of tropical Africa on the west is known only along the coast, where some affinity with that of India may be observed. It consists of 573 species of flower-bearing plants, and is distinguished by a remarkable uniformity, not only in orders and genera, but even in species, from the 16th degree of N. lat. to the river Congo in 6° S. lat. The most prevalent are the grasses and bean tribes, the CyperaceÆ RubiaceÆ, and the CompositÆ. The Adansonia, or baobab of Senegal, is one of the most extraordinary vegetable productions; the stem is sometimes 34 feet in diameter, though the tree is rarely more than 50 or 60 feet high; it covers the sandy plains so entirely with its umbrella-shaped top, that a forest of these trees presents a compact surface, which at some distance seems to be a green field. Cape Verde has its name from the numbers that conceal the barren soil under their spreading tops; some of them are very old, and, with the dragon-tree at Teneriffe, are supposed to be the most ancient vegetable inhabitants of the earth. The Pandanus candelabrum, instead of growing crowded together in masses like the baobab, stands solitary on the equatorial plains, with its lofty forked branches ending in tufts of long stiff leaves. Numerous sedges, of which the Papyrus is the most remarkable, give a character to this region, and cover boundless plains, waving in the wind like corn-fields, while other places are overgrown by forests of gigantic grasses with branching stems.

A rich vegetation, consisting of impenetrable thickets of mangrove, the poisonous manchineel, and many large trees, cover the deltas of the rivers, and even grow so far into the water, that their trunks are coated with shell-fish; but the pestilential exhalations render it almost certain death to botanize in this luxuriance of nature.

Various kinds of the soap or sapodilla trees are peculiar to Africa; the butter-tree of the enterprising but unfortunate Mungo Park, the star-apple, the cream-fruit, the custard-apple, and the water-vine, are plentiful in Senegal and Sierra Leone. The ibraculea is peculiarly African; its seeds are used to sweeten brackish water. The safu and bread-fruit of Polynesia are represented here by the musanga, a large tree of the nettle tribe, the fruit of which has the flavour of the hazel-nut. A few palms have very local habitations, as the Elais Guineensis, or palm-oil plant, found only on that coast. That graceful tribe is less varied in species in equatorial Africa than in the other continents. It appears that a great part of the flora of this portion of Africa is of foreign origin.

The flora of south Africa differs entirely from that of the northern and tropical zones, and as widely from that of every other country, with the exception of Australia and some parts of Chile. The soil of the table-land at the Cape of Good Hope, stretching to an unknown distance, and of the Karoo plains and valleys between the mountains, is sometimes gravelly, but more frequently is composed of sand and clay; in summer it is dry and parched, and most of its rivers are dried up; it bears but a few stunted shrubs, some succulent plants and mimosas, along the margin of the river-courses. The sudden effect of rain on the parched ground is like magic: it is recalled to life, and in a short time is decked with a beautiful and peculiar vegetation, comprehending, more than any other country, numerous and distinctly-defined foci of genera and species.

Twelve thousand species of plants have been collected in the colony of the Cape in an extent of country about equal to Germany. Of these, heaths and proteas are two very conspicuous tribes; there are 300 species of the former, and 200 of the latter, both of which have nearly the same limited range, though Mr. Bunbury found two heaths, and the Protea cynaroides, the most splendid of the family (bearing a flower the size of a man’s hat), on the hills round Graham’s Town, in the eastern part of the colony. These two tribes of plants are so limited that there is not one of either to be seen north of the mountains which bound the Great Karoo, and by much the greatest number of them grew within 100 miles of Cape Town; indeed at the distance of only 40 miles the prevailing ProteaceÆ are different from those at the Cape. The Leucadendron argenteum, or silver-tree, which forms groves at the back of the table-mountain, is confined to the peninsula of the Cape. The beautiful Disa grandiflora is found only in one particular place on the top of the table-mountain.

The dry sand of the west coast, and the country northward through many degrees of latitude, is the native habitation of Stapelias, succulent plants with square leafless stems, and flowers like star-fish, with the smell of carrion. A great portion of the eastern frontier of the Cape colony and the adjacent districts is covered with extensive thickets of a strong succulent and thorny vegetation, called by the natives the bush: similar thickets occur again far to the west, on the banks of the river Gauritz. The most common plants of the bush are aloes of many species, all exceedingly fleshy and some beautiful: the great red-flowering arborescent aloe, and some others, make a conspicuous figure in the eastern part of the colony. Other characteristic plants of the eastern districts are the spek-boem, or Portulacaria afra, Schotia speciosa, and the great succulent euphorbias, which grow into real trees 40 feet high, branching like a candelabrum, entirely leafless, prickly, and with a very acrid juice. The Euphorbia meloformis, three feet in diameter, lies on the ground, to which it is attached by slender fibrous roots, and is confined to the mountains of Graaf Reynet. Euphorbias, in the Old World, correspond with the Cactus tribe, which belong exclusively to the New. The Zamia, a singular plant, having the appearance of a dwarf-palm, without any real similarity of structure, belongs to the eastern districts, especially to the great tract of bush on the Caffir frontier.

Various species of Acacia are indigenous and much circumscribed in their location: the Acacia horrida, or the white-thorned acacia, is very common in the eastern districts and in Caffirland. The Acacia cafra is strictly eastern, growing along the margins of rivers, to which it is a great ornament. The Acacia detinens, or hook-thorn, is almost peculiar to Zand valley.

It appears, from the instances mentioned, that the vegetation in the eastern districts of the colony differs from that on the western, yet many plants are generally diffused of orders and genera found only in this part of Africa:—Nearly all the 300 species of the fleshy succulent tribe of Mesembryanthemum, or Hottentot’s fig; a great many beautiful species of the Oxalis, or wood-sorrel-tribe; every species of Gladiolus, with the exception of that in the cornfields in Italy and France; ixias innumerable, one with petals of apple-green colour; geraniums, especially the genus Pelargonium, or stork’s bill, almost peculiar to this locality; many varieties of Gnaphalium and Xeranthemum; the brilliant Strelitzia; 133 species of the house-leek tribe, all fleshy, attached to the soil by a strong wiry root, and nourished more or less from the atmosphere: Diosmas are widely scattered in great variety; shrubby BoragineÆ with flowers of vivid colours, and OrchideÆ with large and showy blossoms. The leguminous plants and CruciferÆ of the Cape are peculiar; indeed all the vegetation has a distinct character, and both genera and species are confined within narrower limits than anywhere else, without any apparent cause to account for a dispersion so arbitrary.

Notwithstanding the peculiarity of character with which the botany of the Cape is so distinctly marked, it is connected with that of very remote countries by particular plants; for example, of the seven species of bramble which grow at the Cape, one is the common English bramble or blackberry. The affinity with New Holland is greater: in portions of the two countries in the same latitude there are several genera and species that are identical: ProteaceÆ are common to both, so are several genera of IrideÆ, LeguminosÆ, FicoideÆ, MyrtaceÆ, DiosmeÆ, and some others. The botany of the Cape is connected with that of India, and even that of South America, by a few congeners.

The vegetation of Madagascar, though similar in many respects to the floras of India and Africa, nevertheless is its own: the BrexiaceÆ and ChlenaceÆ are orders found nowhere else: there are species of Bignonia, CycadeÆ, and Zamias, a few of the mangosteen tribe, and in the mountains some heaths. The Hydrogeton fenestralis is a singular aquatic plant, with leaves like the dried skeletons of leaves, having no green fleshy substance, and the Tanghinia veneniflua, which produces a poison so deadly that its seeds are used to execute criminals, and one seed is sufficient.

Some genera and species are common and peculiar to Madagascar, the Isle of Bourbon, and Mauritius; yet of the 161 known genera in Madagascar only 54 grow on the other two islands. The three islands are rich in ferns. The Pandanus, or screw-pine genus, abounds in Bourbon and the Mauritius, where it covers sandy plains, sending off strong aËrial roots from the stem, which strike into the ground and protect the plant from the violent winds. Of 290 genera in Bourbon and Mauritius, 196 also grow in India, though the species are different: there is also some resemblance to the vegetation of South Africa, and there is a solitary genus in common with America.

Eight or ten degrees north of Madagascar lies the group of the Seychelles Islands, in which are groves of the peculiar palm which bears the double cocoa-nut, or coco de mer, the growth of these islands only. Its gigantic leaves are employed in the construction of houses, and other parts of the plant are applied to various domestic purposes.

FLORA OF AUSTRALIA.

The interior of the Australian continent is so little known, that the flora which has come under observation is confined to a short distance from the coast; but it is of so strange and unexampled a character, that it might easily be mistaken for the production of another planet. Many entire orders of plants are known only in Australia, and the genera and species of others that grow elsewhere assume new and singular forms. Evergreens, with hard narrow leaves of a sombre, melancholy hue, are prevalent, and there are whole shadowless forests of leafless trees; the foot-stalks, dilated and set edgewise on the stem, supply their place and perform the functions of nutrition; their altered position gives them a singular appearance. Plants in other countries have glands on the under side of the leaves, but in Australia there are glands on both sides of these substitutes for leaves, which make them dull and lustreless, and the changes of the seasons have no influence on the unvarying olive-green of the Australian forests; even the grasses are distinguished from the gramineÆ of other countries by a remarkable rigidity. Torres Straits, in the north, only 50 miles broad, separates this dry, sombre vegetation from the luxuriant jungle-clad shores of New Guinea, where deep and dark forests are rich in more than the usual tropical exuberance—a more complete and sudden change can hardly be imagined.

The peculiarly Australian vegetation is in the southern part of the continent of New Holland distributed in distinct foci in the same latitude, a circumstance of which the ProteaceÆ afford a remarkable instance. Nearly one-half of the known species of these beautiful shrubs grow in the parallel of Port Jackson, from which they decrease in number both to the south and the north. In that latitude, however, there are twice as many species on the eastern side of the continent as there are on the western, and four times as many as in the centre. Although the ProteaceÆ at both extremities of the continent have all the characters peculiar to Australia, yet those on the eastern coast resemble the South American species, while those on the western side have a resemblance to African forms, and are confined to the same latitudes.

Species of this family are numerous in Van Diemen’s Land; where they thrive at the elevation of 3500 feet, and also on the plains. The myrtle tribe form a conspicuous feature in Australian vegetation, particularly the genera Eucalyptus, Melaleuca, Beaufortia, and others, with splendid blossoms—white, purple, yellow, crimson: 100 species of the Eucalypti, most of them large trees, grow in New Holland; they form great forests in the colony of Port Jackson. The leafless acacias, of which there are 93 species, are a prominent feature in the Australian landscape. The leaves, except in very young plants, are merely foliaceous foot-stalks, presenting their margin towards the stem; yet these and the Eucalypti form the densest shade of any trees in the country. The genus Casuarina, with its strange-jointed, drooping branches, called the marsh-oak, holds a conspicuous place; it is chiefly confined to the principal parallel of this vegetation, and produces excellent timber; it grows also in the Malayan peninsula and South Sea islands. The Oxleya xanthoxylon or yellow wood, one of the mahogany tribe, grows to great size, and the Podocarpus aspleniifolia forms a new genus of the cone-bearing trees. Some of the nettle tribe grow 15 or even 20 feet high. The EpacrideÆ, with scarlet, rose, and white blossoms, supply the place of, and very much resemble, heaths, which do not exist here. The purple-flowering TremandreÆ; the yellow-flowering DilleniaceÆ; the Doryanthes excelsa, the most splendid of the lily tribe, 24 feet high, with a brilliant crimson blossom; the Banksia, the most Australian of all the ProteaceÆ; with Zamias of new species, are all conspicuous in the vegetation of Port Jackson.

There is a change on the north-eastern coast of New Holland. The Castanospermum Australe is so plentiful that it furnishes the principal food of the natives; a caper-tree of grotesque form, having the colossal dimensions of the Senegal baobab, and extraordinary trees of the fig genus, characterize this region. It sometimes occurs, when the seeds of these fig-trees are deposited by birds on the iron-bark-tree, or Eucalyptus resinifera, that they vegetate and enclose the trunk of the tree entirely with their roots, whence they send off enormous lateral branches, which so completely envelop the tree, that at last its top alone is visible in the centre of the fig-tree, at the height of 70 or 80 feet. The Pandanus genus flourishes within the influence of the sea-air. There are only six species of palms, equally local in their habitations as elsewhere, not one of which grows on the west side of the continent. The Araucaria excelsa, or Norfolk Island pine, produces the best timber of any tree in this part of Australia: it, or others of the same genus, extends from the parallel of 29° on the east coast towards the equator, and grows over an area of 900 square miles, including New Norfolk, New Caledonia, and other islands, some of which have no other timber-tree: they are supposed to exist only within the influence of the sea. The AsphodeleÆ abound and extend to the southern extremity of Van Dieman’s Land.

The south-western districts of New Holland exhibit another focus of vegetation, less rich in species than that of Port Jackson, but not less peculiar. The Kingia Australis, or grass-tree, rises solitary on the sandy plains, with bare blackened trunks as if scathed by lightning, occasioned by the fires of the natives, and tufts of long grassy leaves at their extremities; Banksias, particularly the kind called wild honeysuckle, are numerous; the Stylidium, whose blossoms are even more irritable than the leaves of the sensitive mimosa, and plants with dry, everlasting blossoms, characterize the flora of these districts. The greater part of the southern vegetation vanishes on the northern coasts of the continent, and what remains is mingled with the cabbage-palm, various species of the nutmeg tribe, sandal-wood, and other Malayan forms—a circumstance that may hereafter be of importance to our colonists.

OrchideÆ, chiefly terrestrial, are in great variety in the extra-tropical regions of New Holland, and the grasses amount to one-fourth of the monocotyledonous plants. Reeds of gigantic size form forests in the marshes, and kangaroo-grass covers the plains.

Beautiful and varied as the flora is, New Holland is by no means luxuriant in vegetation. There is little appearance of verdure, the foliage is poor, the forests often shadeless, and the grass thin; but in many valleys of the mountains, and even on some parts of the plains, the vegetation is vigorous. It is not the least remarkable circumstance in this extraordinary flora, that, with the exception of a few berries, there is no edible fruit, grain, or vegetable indigenous either in New Holland or Van Diemen’s Land.

The plants of New Holland prevail in every part of Van Diemen’s Land; yet the coldness of the climate and the height of the mountains permit genera of the northern hemisphere to be mixed with the vegetation of the country. Butter-cups, anemones, and polygonums of peculiar species grow on the mountain-tops, together with ProteaceÆ and other Australian plants. The plains glow with the warm golden flowers of the black wattle, a Mimosa, emblematic of the island, and with the equally bright and orange blossom of the gorse, which perfumes the whole atmosphere. Only one tree-fern grows in this country; it rises 20 feet to the base of the fronds, which spread into an elegant top, producing a shadow gloomy as night-fall, and there are 150 species of orchis. The southern extremities both of New Holland and Van Diemen’s Land are characterized by the prevalence of evergreen plants: but the trees here, as well as in the other parts of the southern hemisphere, do not shed their leaves periodically as with us.

The botany of New Zealand appears to be intimately allied to that of New Holland, South America, and South Africa, but chiefly to that of New Holland. Noble trees form impenetrable forests, 60 of which yield the finest timber, and many are of kinds to which we have nothing similar. Here there are no representatives of our oak, birch, or willow, but five species of beech and ten of ConiferÆ have been discovered that are peculiar to the country. They are all alpine, and only descend to the level of the sea in the southern parts of the island. The ConiferÆ of the southern hemisphere are more local than in the northern; of the ten species peculiar to New Zealand it is not certain that more than two or three are found in the middle island, or that any of them grow south of the 40th parallel. The Kauri pine, or Dammara australis, is indigenous in all the three islands, but it is the only cone-bearing tree in North Island, where it grows in hilly situations near the sea, shooting up with a clean stem 60 or 90 feet, sometimes 30 feet in diameter, with a spreading but thin top, and generally has a quantity of transparent yellow resin imbedded at its base. This fine tree does not grow beyond the 38th degree of S. lat. The Metrosideros tomentosa, with rich crimson blossoms, is one of the greatest ornaments of the forests, and the Metrosideros robusta the most singular. It grows to a very great size, and sends shoots from its trunk and branches to the ground, which become so massive that they support the old stem, which to all appearance loses its vitality; it is in fact an enormous epiphyte, growing to, and not from, the ground. Many of the smaller trees are of the laurel tribe, with poisonous berries. Besides, there is a cabbage-palm, the Areca sapida, elder, the Fuchsia excorticata, and other shrubs. This country is probably the southern limit of the orchideous plants that grow on trees. Before New Zealand was colonized, the natives lived chiefly on the roots of the edible fern, Pteris esculenta, with which the country is densely covered, mixed with a shrub that grows like a cypress, and the tea-plant, which is a kind of myrtle whose berries afford an intoxicating liquor. More than 140 species of fern are natives of these islands, some of which are arborescent and 40 feet high; the country is chiefly covered with these and with the New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax, which grows abundantly both on the mountains and plains. The vegetation is so vigorous on these volcanic islands that it grows richly on the banks of hot springs, and even in water too hot to be touched.[161]

In Norfolk Island, 152 species of plants are already known, and many, no doubt, are yet to be discovered. The Cape gooseberry or Physalis edulis, the guava-tree, pepper, white and swamp oak, iron, blood-wood, and lemon trees, are native; also the bread-fruit tree, which blossoms, but does not bear fruit. The Araucaria excelsa and some palms are indigenous, and there are three times as many ferns as of all the other plants together.

The multitude of islands of Polynesia constitute a botanical region apart from all others, though it is but little varied, and characterized principally by the number of syngenesious plants with arborescent terms and tree-ferns. In continental India and the tropical parts of New Holland, the proportion of ferns to conspicuously-flowering plants is as 1 to 26, while on the Polynesian islands it is as 1 to 4, and perhaps even as 1 to 3.[162]

The cocoa-nut palm and the pandanus are common to all the islands, but the latter thrives only when exposed to the sea-air. This archipelago produces Tacca pinnatifida, which yields arrow-root; the Morus papyrifera, whose bark is manufactured into paper; and one of the DracÆna tribe, from which an intoxicating liquor is made. Fifty varieties of the bread-fruit tree are indigenous, which produce three or four crops annually. It is most abundant in the Friendly, Society, and Caroline groups, from whence it has been taken to America, where it thrives in very low latitudes. The Sandwich group is peculiar in the number of Goodenias and Lobelias; while the Coral Islands, whose flora is entirely borrowed, rarely have two species belonging to the same genus; the fragrant suriana and sweet-scented Tournfortia are among their scanty vegetation.

The two species of banana-trees which are natives of southern Asia have been introduced at an unknown and probably early period into the Polynesian islands, and all tropical countries in the eastern and western hemispheres. Syria is their northern limit, where the Musa paradisaica grows to 34° N. lat. The sweet fruit of these trees produces, on the same extent of ground, 44 times as much nutriment as the potato, and 133 times more than wheat.

St. Helena, the Sandwich group, New Zealand, Juan Fernandez, and above all the Galapagos islands, are more peculiar in their floras than any other tracts of their size. The Galapagos archipelago consists of 10 principal islands lying immediately under the equator, 600 miles from the coast of America. They are entirely volcanic, and contain 2000 extinct craters. The vegetation is so peculiar that, of 180 plants which have been collected, 100 are found nowhere else; of 21 species of CompositÆ all but one are new, and belong to 10 genera, 8 of which are confined to these islands exclusively.

This flora has no analogy to that of Polynesia, but it bears a double relation to the flora of South America. The plants peculiar to the Galapagos islands are, for the most part, allied to those on the cooler part of the continent or on high lands, while the others are the same with those that abound in the hot damp intertropical regions of the continent. The greatest number of peculiar plants grow on the tops of the islands where the sea vapour is condensed, and many of them are confined to some one islet of the group. Though this flora is singular, it is poor compared with that of the Sandwich group, or the Cape de Verde Islands.[163]

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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