At Clealum, we found no archaeological remains, except a single human skeleton unearthed in the sinking of a shaft for a coal mine. Here, however, our examination of the vicinity was limited to one day, and it is possible that a more thorough search might bring to light archaeological sites. Specimens from the vicinity of Clealum are unknown to the writer, although there are a number of collections from the vicinity of Ellensburg, Priest Rapids, Kennewick and other places lower down. The abundance of specimens on the surface near Priest Rapids and Kennewick in proportion to those found near North Yakima and Ellensburg, suggests that the high parts of the valley were less densely inhabited and that the mountains were perhaps only occasionally visited. It would seem possible that the prehistoric people of the Yakima Valley had their permanent homes on the Columbia, and possibly in the lower parts of the Yakima region. This is indicated by the remains of underground houses, some of which are as far up as Ellensburg. These remains are similar to those found in the Thompson River region, where such houses were inhabited in the winter. The people of the Yakima area probably seldom went up to the higher valleys and the mountains, except on hunting expeditions or to gather berries, roots and wood for their scaffolds, canoes and other manufactures. If this be correct, it would account for the scarcity of specimens upon the surface along the higher streams, since all the hunting parties, berry, root and wood-gathering expeditions were not likely to leave behind them so much material as would be lost or discarded in the vicinity of the permanent villages. Spinden states[14] that in the Nez Perce region to the east of the Yakima country, permanent villages were not built in the uplands, although in a few places where camas and kouse were abundant, temporary summer camps were constructed.

In the vicinity of Ellensburg, we found no archaeological specimens except the chipped point mentioned on page 163, but this may be due in part to the modern cultivation of the soil and to the fact that the irrigated crops, such as are grown here, hide so much of the surface of the ground. A search along portions of the level country west of the town and even in such places as those where the river cuts the bank, failed to reveal signs of house or village sites. In Ellensburg, I saw a summer lodge, made up of a conical framework of poles covered with cloth and inhabited by an old blind Indian and his wife. East of the city, near the little stream below the City Reservoir was another summer lodge made similarly, but among the covering cloths was some matting of native manufacture. The remains of an underground house, possibly 30 feet in diameter were seen to the east of the Northern Pacific Railway, between Ellensburg and Thrall.

On the little bottom land along the western side of Cherry Creek, near its mouth, at the upper end of Yakima Canon, we found objects which show that the place had been a camping ground. This is immediately south of where an east and west road crosses the creek on the farm of Mr. Bull. On this village site were found the specimens catalogued under numbers 202-8213 to 8222, of which two are shown in Plate II, Fig. 12, and Fig. 52. The opposite side of this stream strikes one of the foothills of the uplands, the western extension of Saddle Mountains. On the top of this foothill, which overlooks the above mentioned village site, were a number of burials marked by circles of rocks.[15] In the rock-slide on the side of this hill, between these circles and the village site below, were a number of graves which are described in detail under numbers 99-4326-4332 and 202-8223-8258 on pages 164 to 166. Some of the objects found, many of which are recent and show contact with the white race, are shown in Figs. 71a, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82-86, 90, 92, 95, and 96.

On the western side of the Yakima, about opposite the above mentioned village site, a rock-slide appears at the head of Yakima Canon. In it are a number of rock-slide graves marked by sticks.

In Selah Canon, on the north side of Selah Creek, about a mile and a half above where it empties into the Yakima are three groups of petroglyphs pecked into the vertical surface of the low basaltic cliffs of the canon wall. Two of these groups (Plate XII) are upon eastern faces of the rock, while the one shown in Fig. 1, Plate XIII, is upon a southern exposure. In the rock-slide on the south side of Selah Canon, about three quarters of a mile above the Yakima or about half way between these petroglyphs and the Yakima, were found a number of graves, one of them marked by a much weathered twig. These were the only archaeological remains seen by us in Selah Canon, although we examined it for at least two miles from its mouth.

On the north slope of Yakima Ridge, near its base, at a point where the Moxee Canal and the river road turn and run west along the base of the ridge or about southeast of the largest ranch there, possibly two miles northeasterly from the Gap, were a number of scattered graves covered with rock-slide material. About one quarter of a mile west from here, a little west of south of the ranch, was a large rock-slide, covering a short northerly spur of the ridge. This is shown from the southwest in Plate VII. It is about three quarters of a mile northeast from where the Yakima River, after flowing through bottom lands, strikes the base of the Yakima Ridge. In this slide were a large number of shallow parallel nearly horizontal ditches below each of which is a low ridge or terrace of the angular slide-rock. Among these terraces, as shown in Fig. 2 of the plate, were a few pits surrounded by a low ridge, made up of jagged slide-rock, apparently from out of the pits. It was naturally larger at the side of the pit towards the bottom of the slide. In none of these did we find human remains or specimens. Some of them are larger than similar pits that we found to be rock-slide graves. Their close resemblance to graves found to have been disturbed, part of their remains being scattered near by and to other graves, as they appeared after our excavations, suggests that these pits are the remains of such rock-slide graves from which the bodies have been removed by the Indians possibly since the land became the property of the United States Government. On the other hand, these pits remind us of rifle pits, though it does not seem probable that they would be built in such a place for that purpose and there is no local account of the site having been used for such pits. This rock-slide is particularly interesting because of the terraces into which most of its surface had been formed. The character of the rock-slide material is such that one may walk over these for some little time without noticing them, but once having been noticed, they always force themselves upon the attention. Standing near the top of the slide, they remind one of rows of seats in a theatre. Each terrace begins at the edge of the slide and runs horizontally out around its convex surface to the opposite side. Some of them are wider than others. They resemble the more or less horizontal and parallel terraces formed by horses and cattle while feeding on steep slopes. The Yakima Ridge has been so terraced by stock in many places and over large areas. However, there is no vegetation on the rock-slide to entice stock and the difficulty of walking over the cruelly sharp rocks as well as the presence of rattlesnakes would seem sufficient to cause both cattle and horses to pass either below or above it. The outer edge of each terrace is probably little lower than the inner edge, but viewed from the slope it seems so, and this suggests that these terraces may have been entrenchments, though it would seem that they would be useless for such a purpose since one can easily reach the land above from either side. Moreover, it would not seem necessary to make parallel entrenchments down the entire slope. That they were made to facilitate the carrying of the dead to the rock-slide graves is possible but not probable. It seems unlikely that they could have been made for the seating of spectators to overlook games or ceremonies; for the sharpness of the rocks would make them very uncomfortable.

There is a much higher rock-slide on the east side of a small steep ravine near where the Yakima River flows close to the base of the ridge, about a mile northeast of the Naches River or Upper Gap. Near the top of this slide, possibly three hundred feet above the river, were similar pits larger than those just described. Two or three of these were bounded along the edge towards the top of the slide by an unusually wide terrace. Near the bottom of this slide were graves[16] (Nos. 1 and 2) which are described in detail on page 153. Grave No. 1 was in the base of the rock-slide as shown in the figure and was indicated by a cedar stick projecting from a slight depression in the top of the heap of rock-slide material covering it. It was on a slight terrace about eighty feet above the river, and commanded a view over the valley of the Yakima to the north. The presence of the brass tube shown in Fig. 75 suggests that this grave is not of great antiquity. Grave No. 2 was in the same rock-slide about fifty feet down the ravine or to the north, and about forty feet above the Moxee flume. It was indicated by a hole in a pile of rock, like an old well. It was found to contain nothing, the remains having been removed. On the south side of the Yakima Ridge, near the bridge over the Yakima, at the Upper Gap, rock-slide graves are said to have been disturbed during the construction of the flume which carries the waters of the Moxee ditch around the western end of the Yakima Ridge, and during the gathering of stone on this point for commercial purposes. Some of these graves are said to have been above the flume.

Here and there, near the base of the ridge from this point easterly for about a mile, were found small pits, such as one shown in Fig. 1, Plate VIII. Apparently, these were rock-slide graves from which the human remains had been removed, either by the Indians in early times or more recently by visitors from the neighboring town of North Yakima. Possibly some of them are old cache holes. One of these graves near the top of a small rock-slide above the flume contained a human skeleton and is shown in Fig. 2, Plate VIII. Below these graves, on the narrow flat between the base of the ridge and the Yakima River at a point about three quarters of a mile below the Upper Gap at the mouth of the Naches River, were discovered a number of small pits each surrounded by a low ridge of earth which were probably the remains of cache holes made by the Indians during the last twenty years. On this flat, close to the river were two pits surrounded by a circular ridge which indicated ancient semi-subterranean house sites, further described on page 51.

It is said, that above the flume at a point about a mile and a half below the Upper Gap, rock-slide graves, some of which were marked by pieces of canoes were excavated by school boys. The writer was also informed by small boys that near the top of the ridge immediately above here, they frequently found chipped points for arrows but on examination discovered only chips of stone suitable for such points, the boys either having mistaken the chips for points or having collected so many of the points that they were scarce.

On the west side of the Yakima, at the Upper Gap, there is a raised flat top or terrace that overlooks the mouth of the Naches River to the southeast. Here were a number of circles made up of angular rocks. Within each we found the remains of human cremations. Unburned fragments of the bones of several individuals with shell ornaments were often present in a single circle.[17]

Continuing westward, along the slope of the ridge, cut along its southern base by the Naches River, at a point about one and a quarter miles west of the mouth of the river, a small ravine cuts down from the top of the ridge. This has formed a little flat through the middle of which it has again cut down towards the river. East of this ravine on the flat is a circle of angular rocks such as are found scattered over the ridge. This circle no doubt marks a house site, the interior having been cleared of stone and the circle of rocks probably having been used to hold down the lodge covering.[18] To the west of the ravine, where the flat is somewhat higher than to the east, there are the remains of two semi-subterranean houses. Each of these is represented by a pit surrounded by a ridge of earth, and on the top, are large angular rocks.[19] At a point where the ridge meets this flat, close to the western side of the ravine was a slight depression in a small rock-slide which marked what seemed to be a grave, but which, on excavation, revealed nothing. Still further westward at a point probably two miles above the mouth of the Naches River and overlooking the stream at an altitude of perhaps 250 feet, we found scattered over the ground along the eastern summit of a deep ravine, the first one west of the house sites above mentioned, numerous small chips of material suitable for chipped implements. These became more numerous as we proceeded northward up the eastern side of the ravine for a distance of about a quarter of a mile. Here we came upon the small quarry in the volcanic soil, shown in Fig. 1, Plate III. Immediately to the west of the pit was a pile of earth, apparently excavated from it.

On the top of this heap of soil and among the broken rock to the south and east of it, were found several water-worn pebbles, used as hammers in breaking up the rock, as indicated by the battered condition of their ends (p. 58). We saw no other water-worn pebbles on the surface of the ridge, but they were numerous in the gravel of the bottom-lands subject to the overflow of the rivers. It would seem that these pebbles were brought up from the river below for use as hammers. Scattered to the south of the pit were found large fragments of float quartz material containing small pieces of stone suitable for chipped implements but made up mainly of stone which was badly disintegrated. Lying on the slope of the ravine were many small fragments of this same stone which were clear of flaws.

It would seem that a mass of float quartz much of which was suitable for chipped implements had been found here. It had been excavated, leaving the pile of earth and then broken up with the river pebbles which were left behind with the waste. Probably there were fairly large pieces of the material, suitable for chipped implements; that were carried away while small pieces were left lying about a pile of unsuitable material. In other words, it would seem that these specimens mark a place for the roughing out of material for chipped implements.[20] On the same side of the river, on the side of a rather low ridge or table-land overlooking it, at a point about twelve miles above its mouth, are some rock-slides. Here it is said that graves have been found. They were probably typical rock-slide graves. On a point of land perhaps fifty feet above these and a few hundred feet to the north, Master James McWhirter pointed out a grave on his farm. It was then surrounded by a ring made up of water-worn pebbles, apparently brought up from the river. He stated that an attempt had been made to excavate it which possibly accounts for the pebbles being in a circle rather than a heap over the grave. This grave was found to contain a slab of wood, shell ornaments, probably modern, and an adult skeleton, No. 12 (7), 99-4320, p. 156.

There are a number of painted pictographs on the vertical faces of the basaltic columns, facing north on the south side of the Naches River, immediately to the west of the mouth of Cowiche Creek. These are below the flume and may be reached from the top of the talus slope which has been added to by the blasting away of the rock above, during the construction of the flume. In fact, debris from this blasting has covered part of the pictographs. Some of the pictures are in red, others in white and there are combinations of the two colors.[21] Local merchants have defaced these pictographs with advertisements.

In the Cowiche Valley, there are several rock-slide graves, but these seem to have been rifled. Northeast of the fair grounds at North Yakima, the remains of an underground house are said to exist. A short distance east of Tampico, about 18 miles above the mouth of the Ahtanum, on the north side of the river and east of the road from the north where it meets the river road and immediately across it from the house of Mr. Sherman Eglin, was a grave located in a volcanic dome left by the wind, which Mr. Eglin pointed out to us. The site is about 600 feet north of the north branch of the Ahtanum and about fifteen feet above the level of the river. A pile of rocks about eight feet in diameter covered this grave, No. 25, p. 160. On the land of Mr. A. D. Eglin, between the above-mentioned grave and Tampico on the north side of the road were seen the signs of two graves, destroyed by plowing. Near here, an oblong mound six or eight inches high and ten feet wide by eight feet long, supposedly covering a grave, marked by a stone on the level at each side and each end, 12 and 16 feet apart respectively was reported by Mr. Eglin's son. A little distance further north and up the slope of the land, were a number of volcanic ash heaps left by the wind. The surrounding land is what is locally known as "scab land." In some of these knolls, graves have been found and one which has been explored is shown in Fig. 2, Plate IX. It is located near the pasture gate, and was marked by a circle of stones as shown in the figure. On excavating, nothing was found. It is possible that the remains were entirely disintegrated. Graves in rock-slides on hill sides, and a village site near this place were reported by Mr. Eglin's son. Along the north side of Ahtanum Creek between Ahtanum and Tampico, below the rim rock of the uplands parallel to the creek are a number of rock-slide graves.

On the western side of Union Gap, through which the Yakima River flows, below the mouth of Ahtanum Creek, a short distance below Old Yakima, on a little flat or terrace projecting from the south side of Rattle Snake Range is a modern Indian cemetery surrounded by a fence. To the east of Union Gap, on the northwestern slope of Rattle Snake Range, we examined some rock-slide graves which had been made since the advent of objects of white manufacture. A mile or so south of Union Gap not far from the uplands to the east of the river was a ridge of earth extending north and south nearly parallel with the river road. This, however, I believe may be the remains of some early irrigation project. On the west side of the Yakima River about two miles south of Union Gap was seen a summer lodge made by covering a conical framework with mats.

At Fort Simcoe, immediately south of the Indian agency, on the north edge of the "scab land," overlooking a small ravine, is a large pit surrounded by an embankment of earth, the remains of a semi-subterranean house. Perhaps an eighth of a mile south of this, on higher "scab land" was a rather low long mound upon which were several piles of stone that probably marked graves. This mound was lower and more oblong than the usual dome in which such graves were made. Mrs. Lynch, who pointed these out has excavated similar piles at this place and found them to mark graves. We were informed that chipped implements were frequently found along the Yakima River at a point near Prosser. Above Kennewick, while digging a flume, a number of graves were discovered, from which Mr. Sonderman made his collection. Some of these graves contained modern material (p. 111).

On the surface of the western beach of the Columbia at Kennewick and on the flat land back of it we found chips of material suitable for making chipped implements, and a large pebble, probably a net sinker.[22] These, together with the fact that Mr. D. W. Owen has also frequently found specimens here, suggest that this place was an ancient camping ground. That Lewis and Clark saw Indians here and in the vicinity, as well as that the Indians still camp here on the beach of the river, sheltered from the wind by the bank and depending upon the river driftwood for their fuel, strengthens this suggestion. Specimens have been found on the large island in the Columbia at the mouth of the Yakima. (See p. 64.) At a point four miles below Kennewick or perhaps a mile below a point opposite the mouth of the Snake, a grave which contained material of white manufacture is said to have been discovered by a man while hauling water up the bank of the Columbia.

Schoolcraft states[23] that there was an earthwork on the left bank of the Lower Yakima on the edge of a terrace about fifteen feet high a short distance from the water. This terrace was banked on either side by a gully. This consisted of two concentric circles of earth about eighty yards in diameter by three feet high, with a ditch between. Within were about twenty "cellars", situated without apparent design, except economy of room. They were some thirty feet across, and three feet deep. A guide stated that it was unique and made very long ago by an unknown people. Outside, but near by, were other "cellars" in no way differing from the remains of villages of the region. What may be an earthwork near by is described by Schoolcraft[24] as follows: "The Indians also pointed out, near by, a low hill or spur, which in form might be supposed to resemble an inverted canoe, and which he had said was a ship." Schoolcraft suggests a possible relation of this to the mounds of the Sacramento Valley and continues:—

"In this connection may also be mentioned a couple of modern fortifications, erected by the Yakamas upon the Sunkive fork. They are situated between two small branches, upon the summits of a narrow ridge some two hundred yards long, and thirty feet in height, and are about twenty-five yards apart. The first is a square with rounded corners, formed by an earthen embankment capped with stones; the interstices between which served for loop-holes, and without any ditch. It is about thirty feet on the sides, and the wall three feet high. The other is built of adobes, in the form of a rectangle, twenty by thirty-four feet, the walls three feet high, and twelve to eighteen inches thick, with loop-holes six feet apart. Both are commanded within rifle-shot by neighboring hills. They were erected in 1847 by Skloo, as a defence against the Cayuse. We did not hear whether they were successfully maintained, accounts varying greatly in this respect. In the same neighborhood Captain M'Clellan's party noticed small piles of stones raised by the Indians on the edges of the basaltic walls which enclose these valleys, but were informed that they had no purpose; they were put up through idleness. Similar piles are, however, sometimes erected to mark the fork of a trail. At points on these walls there were also many graves, generally made in regular form, covered with loose stones to protect them from the cayotes, and marked by poles decorated with tin cups, powder-horns, and articles of dress. During the summer the Indians for the most part live in the small valleys lying well into the foot of the mountains. These are, however, uninhabitable during the winter, and they move further down, or to more sheltered situations. The mission which, in summer, is maintained in the A-tÁ-nam valley, is transferred into that of the main river."[25]

After passing the top of the divide, to the left of the trail from Ellensburg to Priest Rapids, chips and fragments of variegated float quartz suitable for chipped implements were found. This apparently marked a place where a fragment of float rock had been broken up, but fine fragments were hardly numerous enough to indicate that the place had been a shop site, or at least a large one. The quantity of material broken up, judging from the amount of refuse, was small. On the western side of the Columbia, at the base of the basaltic rocks where they meet the bottom-land, perhaps a mile from the river were rock-slide graves in the talus slope. At the head of Priest Rapids, the river turns towards the west and then southward, flowing close to the southern end of this escarpment. On the flat, at the very head of Priest Rapids, the river, during high water had washed out the remains of a village or camp site, where pestles and animal bones were numerous. A short distance above this, in a low ridge near the river were some modern graves some of which were marked with sticks at the head and foot. The bodies, judging from the mounds of earth, were laid full length and many, if not all of them, judging from the size of the head and foot sticks, were placed with the feet towards the east. Perhaps a mile above here near the home of Mr. Britain Everette Craig, several large and deep pits, the sites of ancient semi-subterranean houses were seen. Above and near his house, the river had washed out what was apparently a village site, and perhaps a few graves. Here was found the small fresh water shell heap, shown in Fig. 1, Plate V, and the pile of flat oval pebbles which probably marked a cooking place, shown in Fig. 2. On the west beach of the Columbia at Sentinal Bluffs perhaps another mile further up the river, notched sinkers and other indications of a camp or fishing ground were found.

On the eastern side of the river near the head of Priest Rapids some material was found on the surface of the beach where the floods of the river had uncovered it. A mile or more above here, pecked on the basaltic columns of Sentinal Bluffs, which may be seen in both figures of Plate V were a number of petroglyphs, shown in Plate XI and described on page 121. Those shown in Fig. 1, photographed from the west, are on the columns to the east of the road, blasted through the rocks at this point, and perhaps fifteen feet from the river. Those in Fig. 2, photographed from the north, are to the west of the road on the columns which rise abruptly from the river. Some specimens and indications of habitation were found scattered between this point and the mouth of Crab Creek, the bed of which was dry in most places when we visited it.

FOOTNOTES: