Noah and Zachariah returned with the kagebrÖd, dark, heavy bread, with carraway seeds in it.114 Our friend from Eisbod had sent to say, he would come up to our camp, if well enough. They had also made acquaintance, with an old Norwegian, who resided near the village. He showed them his violin, for which he wanted four dollars.

After we had finished our tea, bread, and butter, more visitors arrived. One peasant was an important representative of royalty. He wore a large waistcoat; on every button he had a photograph of some potentate. The King and Queen of Sweden, the Prince and Princess of Wales, and the King of Sardinia, were among the number. His waistcoat, in fact, included nearly all the crowned heads of Europe. After tea, we sat in the rocks above our camp. The evening was very damp, and showery. When we returned, our visitors were still sitting by our tents. Notwithstanding heavy rain, they continued until about nine o’clock.

It was three o’clock in the morning when we were stirring. The Tarno Rye’s back was much chafed. The donkeys had eaten the best part of one of our pocket handkerchiefs, the day before. For frokost we had tea, black-bread, and cheese.

The morning was cloudy, as we left our camp at half-past six o’clock. We did not feel so well as usual. Our health had been excellent throughout. As we passed a cottage, the gipsies pointed out the old man’s house, with its flag, and large stone, with a photograph let into it, of his majesty Carl John.115

When we came to the Kroemmermoen station soon afterwards, Noah and Zachariah were sent to buy bread, and wire at the shop. The station is apparently exceedingly comfortable. Esmeralda went on with the baggage. Going up stairs, we were shown into our friend’s bed-room. Our friend from Eisbod was in bed looking very pale and unwell. Something had disagreed with him, and he had not been well since he left Skogstad. Apparently he had a severe attack of diarrhoea. Our bread cost us one mark, potatoes four skillings, and wire ten skillings.

As we left our friend, he said he should try and continue his journey the same morning. It seemed as if we were ever destined to pass, and repass, and meet continually.

When we overtook our baggage shortly after, near the village church of Bang, we found our lady visitors of the previous day, and the Lehnsmoend, and their friends, assembled, to give us their parting good wishes. Much we regretted, that our time did not permit us to stay another day. Bang is delightfully situated. However powerful the description, there is much that the poet’s pen, will fail to convey.

The Lehnsmoend, our agreeable visitor of the previous day, the young gentleman we had seen at Lomen on the Slidre Fjord, the ladies, especially our fair visitor, who had given us the verses, were as charming as before. All united to say to us “Bon voyage,” as we left the lovely dale of Lille Bang.116

After we had left Bang, the road reached the river’s bank. Fortunately there was a horse-boat, with a landing and all complete. The ferry-house was on the other side; the river Beina was before us. The old man at the ferry wore breeches and stockings, and very large shoes. He was heavy, stooping, and slow, and was followed by his son, who was his duplicate, in large baggy trousers, and immense shoes, and a shade slower still. They were a perfect study. A draper’s assistant would have measured up their time, at five minutes the yard. Both had a sparkle of comicality in their eyes, as they helped our gipsies to carry our baggage from the donkeys into the boat. Strange to say, the donkeys walked on to the horse-boat, without a moment’s hesitation. The old man rowed with two very large oars, whilst his son slowly used a shaft.

The boat reached the opposite bank, and the donkeys were safely landed. Two females, we took for his wife and daughter, came to a fence to look at our donkeys. The old man began to assist in taking our baggage on shore. Presently Mephistopheles rushed on deck. The old man was slowly dragging at a heavy pocket, which generally took the strength of Noah, and ourself, to lift on to the Puru Rawnee. Suddenly Mephistopheles, spinning the old man almost round, like a tee-to-tum, swung it over his shoulder like a feather, and in two seconds deposited it on shore. We shall never forget the old man’s look of amazement, and his son’s sudden pause to take another look at Mephistopheles. Then Mephistopheles in his hurry tumbled headlong over some bags, to the amusement of the two ferrymen.

It was found that a rope had been left on the other side the river. Mephistopheles jumped into a light pram, and by his rapidity, almost tumbled the man’s son into the bottom of the boat. Away went Mephistopheles, with two oars, splashing across the river. Now they are coming back, the old man’s son sprawling in the stern, as he holds on, with astonished look; whilst Mephistopheles, with fearful irregularity, is sending the waters of the Beina in all directions.

Our gipsies are screaming with laughter. “Ha, ha! Uncle Sam coming from Bosbury, a seaport town in England! Dik the Balo-Shero. Look at Elijah! Why, he’s got a square nose.”

We were exceedingly thankful that our gipsies’ tatersprog and English slang was never understood. “Coming from Bosbury,” had reference to a question, a countryman once asked one of the tribe, “Where’s Bosbury?” “Bosbury? why, it’s a seaport town in the middle of England, with lots of ships!” “Well,” said the rustic, “I never heerd on it afore.”

Whilst the ferryman’s son was enjoying his rapid transit, his father, mother, and sister, as we supposed them to be, were enjoying our brandy. Of course, the son, when he did land, drank “gamle norge” to his happy escape. It was not the first aquavit he had taken. Energy is catching; they began to look quite sharp. Our transit cost twelve skillings. Mephistopheles played them a tune on his Violin. The ferryman and family seemed highly delighted. We left with their good wishes, to continue our journey.

Still we became more and more unwell. Slowly we went on, until we came to a large gaard, of superior size, and comfort.

The road passed through a large open meadow, shut in by gates, on the banks of the river. Near the river the grass had been newly mown. The farmer, and some of his family, came to see the donkeys, which the gipsies halted for their inspection. The farmer’s wife asked if they stood on their hind legs. The people seemed so kindly; the meadow so charmingly situate, on the banks of the broad river, that we decided to stay. We made the farmer, and his wife, understand that we wanted a mark of fladbrÖd, and six skillings’ worth of milk. Esmeralda went to the gaard for it. They nearly filled one large can full of milk. Noah in the meantime lighted a fire, and made the grÖd. The donkeys were driven across a dry portion of the shingly bed of the river, to a green island for rest and shade.

The farmer and his wife sat down near us. It was astonishing the kindly interest they took. We fancy we looked ill and worn. At first we said nothing to our gipsies. It may probably pass away, thought we. “Du courage.” Esmeralda soon discovered that something was the matter with the Rye, and we told her. Still we sat on the beautiful new mown turf, gazing on the rapid broad flowing river, the farmer, and his wife and family near. Then the donkeys were driven back for us to go. Some of the family brought green corn, and green peas, for the donkeys to eat. Then we gave the farmer’s wife a song, for, somehow, we seemed to have established a friendship with them. The farmer’s wife seemed anxious to know our name; so we wrote it on the back of the song, with the date. Then she asked, whose wife Esmeralda was, and if we worked in metals. They did not quite seem to understand, when we said we travelled for pleasure. So we parted from the friendly farmer, and his wife, and family, at about twelve o’clock, and continued our journey.

Passing the HÖler Elv, we came towards Storsveen. Once a man came out of a wood, hastily put up his scythe, and followed us. He wanted to see our donkeys. The grain is stacked up in the fields, sheaf upon sheaf, round poles, six feet high. Zachariah tried the river, but could not catch any fish. It did not appear there were many.

Near Storsveen, we saw a pig with a broken nose. Soon after we had passed the turn down to the Storsveen Station, we noticed behind us a traveller. It was our friend from Eisbod, walking after us with his knapsack. We had met again. Our friend said he was much better, and was going to Storsveen; but seeing us before him, he had overtaken us. After a pleasant converse, he returned to Storsveen Station to get a conveyance, and said he should overtake us again.

Struggle as we would, we got worse. Our gipsies noticed it. They became more silent. We told Noah to camp, at the first convenient spot. About two o’clock we came to a beautiful part of the valley. All that we could desire. The road passed through an amphitheatre of green turf, closed in by rising rocks, covered with dense, and thickly hanging woods. In front we had the broad river. A dry, level, shingly beach, stretched out, to nearly the middle of the stream. On the opposite bank, to our right, there was a magnificent cliff, above the river, clothed with wood. The scene was well suited for a rest. Our gipsies quickly drove the donkeys to a rising hillock, beneath the wood, a short distance from the road, and pitched our tents. Our friend from Eisbod, came soon after in a conveyance. Paying a short visit to our camp, he had one of our cigars, a pleasant converse, and had almost recovered.

As he was leaving in his conveyance, two smart young tourists came along the road; they were on foot. Their whole equipment was neatness, even to the umbrella. As, very far from well, we sat near our tent, we could see them in conference, with our friend from Eisbod. Immediately afterwards, one produced a sketch-book, and apparently sketched the donkeys. Then he appeared to be taking a sketch of our camp, and Esmeralda, and ourself. Noah got up, and in an earnest tone said, “They are ‘lelling’ you, sir,” and vanished off to the river, where Zachariah was disporting himself on the shingly beach, with nothing on but his shirt.117 They at last appeared to have completed the sketch of our donkeys, and camp, for suddenly the book was shut. They took off their hats; we, of course returned the salute, and they continued their excursion. If we had not been so unwell, we should have sought their acquaintance.

Very quietly we rested in our camp. Esmeralda did what she could. No one came. It was just such a spot one could wish to die in. Yes; but who is to write “Tent Life with the English Gipsies in Norway”? Where are the Birmingham bagman’s two copies? Where will be the many others required, including that for the officer with the Roman fever? Are they to be disappointed? No: we shall not fail them, in the closing scenes of our nomad wanderings.

Noah came back before our aftensmad, with thirteen minnows, and Zachariah three, which were fried for tea, with fladbrÖd and butter. The afternoon was beautiful, and at nine o’clock we retired to rest.

It is Tuesday, 16th August. En route Zachariah, “Vand” “Yog.” We are all up at half-past three o’clock. It rained a little, and was very cloudy. One carriole passed on the road in the night, and another early in the morning. Noah lighted a fire, and we had Australian preserved meat, and fladbrÖd, and tea for breakfast.

When the gipsies were packing up, a man and a boy came across the river in a boat, to look at the donkeys. Whilst they were absent from their boat, Esmeralda went to the river to wash, and getting into the boat to amuse herself, it got detached from the side, and she was floating away, without oars, into the middle of the river, when she jumped out nearly up to her middle. This incident, she did not relate until afterwards, thinking we might be angry with her, for getting into the boat.

The tents are struck, the donkeys loaded, and we are off at eight o’clock. The rest and repose at our beautiful camping ground, had given us renewed spirit. We were decidedly better. The weather cleared. The road winds, through a diversified scene, of thick fir woods, and occasional enclosures. One very large gaard on the opposite side the river, before we reached Sorum, was admirably arranged for comfort and convenience. It was pleasantly placed above the river. We noticed a pigeon-box against a large granary, the only one we saw in Norway.

Coming to a delightful spot, near a stream of water, in a wood, not far from the road, we halted. There were some houses on the other side the road. One woman was singing, who had an excellent voice. We seldom heard any singing in Norway. Singing birds, and singing women, were scarce. We were pleased with this woman’s voice.

Our middag’s-mad consisted of Australian meat, fladbrÖd and butter, and cheese and tea. We had also chocolate. An altercation took place between Noah and Zachariah. Mephistopheles shouted so loud, we gave him a bang on the head, which effectually laid his spirit low.

At half-past three o’clock, the party were again en route. The country was very pleasing; the weather delightful. Zachariah played, from time to time, his violin, as we slowly journeyed along. The Sorum Station is a quaint old place. The road passes through a sort of court surrounded by wooden buildings. It is kept by very respectable people. We purchased twenty-two skillings’ worth of fladbrÖd and butter. All the gens de la maison assembled to see us, including the traveller, who had passed in his carriole.

With mutual salutations, we again left, Zachariah playing his violin, as we passed through a thick forest. Then we had more enclosures, and some pretty rural lanes. At last, towards the close of evening, when the road passed through an open fir wood, we noticed a large lagoon, or open arm of the river, to our left, on the margin of the wood.

A halt was called, and we camped on the edge of the wood, below the road. Our tents were pitched near two tall Scotch firs, standing outside the wood, with a pleasant view across the lagoon. It was from six to seven o’clock, when we halted. Noah and Zachariah went fishing, but without success. Our aftens-mad consisted of tea, ham, fladbrÖd, butter, and chocolate. Esmeralda and ourself practised Romany. Our health was fast returning—in fact, we were almost as well as usual.

Up at four o’clock. Now, Noah! Zachariah! Noah got the water, and our fire was lighted. We were just going to breakfast at five o’clock, when three men, and a peasant woman came by. They were going harvesting. Loud were their exclamations of “peen giÆre” (fine beauty), “meget peen,” “nei, nei.” They looked curiously at our preparations for breakfast, and then left.

When Noah was loading our donkeys, three men and a girl came to see the donkeys, and were surprised at the weight they carried. It appeared we were at a place pronounced like Helgst, about one furlong from Noes.

At seven o’clock, pushing onwards along a pleasant forest road, we again came to enclosures. Then a church appeared to view and a rifle range. The range appeared a very short one, having a booth, apparently used as a shelter for the marksmen.118 We had now left the Valders, and had seen some of the beauties of the Aadalen. Noes was at the upper shore of the Spirilen Lake, and it would be necessary to cross the Beina at its outfall to the lake.

The Noes Station is large, and in a wooden building near, we found a shop containing a variety of goods of all sorts, and sizes. First we bought wooden spoons, and soap, for twenty-two skillings, and then some fladbrÖd for one mark. Noah had gone beyond the house, to the ferry-boat, on the lake shore. Esmeralda and ourself were leaving the shop, when we met Noah, with a gloomy countenance. He informed us there was no horse-boat, and the donkeys could not possibly cross.

Saying we should soon see whether we could cross, we all went down with a civil man, who seemed the owner of the ferry, and premises. After much talking, he explained that the steamer left at seven o’clock in the morning, and it was now nine o’clock, and we were too late.

Looking at the two small boats, we explained to the ferryman, that we must get across somehow. He seemed to catch our meaning; but our gipsies shook their heads, and said the poor donkeys would be drowned.

To continue our journey, we were determined. The obstacle of a river was not to be thought of, for a moment. A day would be lost, by camping at Noes until the next morning. Although we might probably make up lost time in the steamer, still we preferred going on by land, if possible.

Returning to the shop, we bought a pound of white sugar for 20 skillings. The old man in the meantime appeared with two men, and poles, and a strong tether rope, and an axe. Again we returned to the sandy beach. Noah and Zachariah were very desponding at the sight. It looked very much as if they were going to erect a scaffold, and behead the donkeys on the spot. The owner of the ferry shortened one of the poles, and in a few minutes, the two small boats were securely lashed to the two poles, extending over them crossways. Our gipsies were still unable to disconnect the donkeys, with anything short of drowning.

A small crowd of peasants now collected to view the passage of the Beina by the English gipsies in Norway, with their animals and baggage. Most of the men, who chewed tobacco, were dressed in light jumpers, patched trowsers, and large heavy boots, without stockings; the kind-looking stout female, who sold us the fladbrÖd, was there, and young peasant girls, with handkerchiefs tied over their heads.

The Tarno Rye was first bridled, and led to the boats by Zachariah. There it decidedly refused to go any further. Zachariah pulled, Noah lifted at its hind legs, ourself and two men lifted at the fore legs. The struggle ended, in our fairly carrying the donkey into the one boat, at the risk of all coming down into the water, together with one tremendous splash; the other boat was turned sideways, and we forced the Puro Rye into it, whilst a man held its head. The boats were quickly rowed off by another man, and the animals safely landed.

One man was bold enough to ride one of the donkeys to a wood close to the sandy beach. Zachariah rowed back. All were highly pleased at the success. The Puru Rawnee made a tremendous fight. Zachariah tugged, and the Puru Rawnee got one hind leg over the boat’s side; but a stout fellow, who ultimately nearly pushed it over Zachariah, placed its leg safe in the boat. The baggage was put in the other boat, to balance the donkey, and then they crossed the river.

The boats returned. We paid the man fifteen skillings, which seemed to satisfy all, and with our gipsies, and the rest of our baggage, soon reached the other side. Several were collected, when we landed: one gentlemanly, well-dressed Norwegian, looked at our maps, and pointed out the route. Esmeralda immediately began to castigate her donkey, then scolded Zachariah, and was in her turn scolded by ourself, whilst the boatmen drank “gamle norge” in our aquavit.