Hubert Smith

It was the afternoon of the third day after the arrival of Cadurcis at the gipsy encampment, and nothing had yet occurred to make him repent his flight from the abbey, and the choice he had made. He had experienced nothing but kindness and hospitality, while the beautiful Beruna seemed quite content to pass her life in studying his amusement.

Disraeli’s Venetia.

THE REINDEER’S FATE—DESOLATE SCENE—SEVERAL ASCENTS—THE FRIGHTENED PEASANTS—A COAT LOST—ESMERALDA’S VIEWS—ABSENT TREASURES—OLE RE-ENGAGED—A NEW KETTLE PROP—THE HANDSOME ARTIST—COMFORTABLE STATION—ADIEU RÖDSHEIM—OUR EXCELLENT GUIDE—CROSSING THE BRIDGE—ZACHARIAH’S ESCAPE.

On the hanging precipice of rocks, the highest in Norway, a reindeer had met its death. The large glaciers of Tverbroeen Svelnaasbroe and Styggebroeen we could see below us. The glorious sunrise had lighted up the LauvhÖen, Hestbroepiggene, HesthÖ, SandgrovhÖ, Tvoerfjeld, Lomseggen, and Grjotaa Fjeld with its large glaciers. Then we had the deep valley of Visdalen on one side and Leirdalen on the other. The lofty Fjelds of the Eisteinshovd, KvitingskjÖlen, and Hjem Fjeldene in the distance. Across Visdalen and near to us the mountains of the GlitterhÖ, Glittertind,92 Glitters RundhÖ, and Troldsteens RundhÖ. To the west are the mountains of the Vesle Fjeld, the Kjoerringhoetta and many others. What a wild boundless region of peaks to the south—far, far beyond our sight. An endless extent of riven rock, above the glaciers snow, of an ever frozen region. The StygehÖ, Tverbottenhorne, Kirken. Uledals Tinderne, one of whose peaks was also afterwards ascended by Messrs. Browne and Saunders. The LeirhÖ, Memurutinden, HeilstuguhÖ, Tyknings, SnehÖ, BeshÖ, Sikkildals HÖ, HeimdalshÖ, Simletind, Skarvdalstind, Knudshultinden, Mugna, KalvaahÖgda Melkedals-tinderne, SkagastÖltind, the Koldedals-tinderne, and the wild peaks of the Horungerne.

Noah lighted a fire on the rocks near the dome. We sang a gipsy song. Then a memorial of our visit was placed in a bottle, and added to those records of former ascents already there. At five o’clock a.m. we commenced our descent, Ole leading, ourself next, and Noah bringing up the rear. In the same order we had ascended. With difficulty we kept our legs on the frozen snow sloping from the dome. If we had rolled with Ole and Noah to the glaciers below, our wanderings would certainly have been at an end.

The rocks were soon reached, and, descending to the glaciers below, we reached RÖdsheim before ten o’clock the same morning. This gives thirteen hours from RÖdsheim and return. Mr. Watson, who is a member of the Alpine Club, accomplished the ascent in 1868 in nine hours and a quarter actual walking. The Proesten H. Halling had made the ascent, and also one of the young ladies we had met at the Proesten Hallings. What cannot ladies accomplish when they make up their minds?

The GaldhÖpiggen, we were told, was first ascended in 1851 by a schoolmaster and a farmer, who took three days to succeed. In 1864 Ole Halvorsen, or, as he is very often called from his farm, Ole RÖdsheim, ascended it from RÖdsheim. Captain R. J. Campbell ascended it in 1866; since then to the present time there have been several ascents from RÖdsheim. The Proesten Honoratus Halling, of Lom, Messrs. H. Smith, Wright, and G. H. Wright, from Lom Rectory, H. S. Marriot, H. W. Cuthbert, J. Dymsdale, Mr. and Mrs. Watson, and lastly, Messrs. Boyson and Harrison, to whom Ole Halvorsen had acted as guide before we engaged his services. Some tourists have ascended, we believe, from Visdal since the first ascent was made.

Esmeralda and Zachariah welcomed us at our camp at RÖdsheim. They had felt quite lost. Esmeralda did not approve of our staying out all night. They had not been able to sleep. In the middle of the night they said an attempt had been made to steal the donkeys. Two men were near them, and one was actually trying to mount one of them. Esmeralda and Zachariah went up to them, and both men ran away along the mountain road with Esmeralda and Zachariah in pursuit. We can imagine Mephistophiles, the descendant of some count of Lesser Egypt, with nothing on but his shirt, swiftly pursuing two heavy peasant descendants of some Norwegian chief of ancient time, flapping the road with their heavy shoes, panting and breathless to escape the unexpected apparitions from the rocks of the Boever Elv in the dead of night. “Norwegians stealing, ce n’est pas possible!” said we. “Curious to examine the animals near the road, they had merely ventured to inspect them closely, and you nearly frightened them to death.”93

A dismal revelation had also to be made, for on returning from the GaldhÖpiggen it was discovered that our siphonia overcoat, secured by straps, had been lost on the arrÊte near the mountain’s summit. Ole would then and there have returned for it, but this we would not allow; and a look-out was to be made during the next ascent.

Then our boots, which were not new when we commenced our wanderings, were declared by Esmeralda to be a complete wreck. Before our ascent of the GaldhÖpiggen, they had been severely tested by nearly all the wear and tear of the distance to RÖdsheim. Even Medwin’s won’t last for ever. Then it must be remembered we never had a single blister during the journey. C’est quelque chose, thought we, as Esmeralda looked out from the wardrobe pocket, another pair of Medwin’s fishing-boots nearly new. Shall we ever forget the look Esmeralda gave us when she held up the dÉbris of those replaced? Can we forget the tone in which she somewhat reproachfully said, “Now, look at these chockas!”

Having made rapid but unsatisfactory rÉsumÉ of the results of our ascent, Esmeralda treated the whole affair in a most contemptuous spirit. Instead of receiving much laudation, our mountain expedition was looked upon as a profitless expenditure of time, and energy, and a reckless desertion of our tents. In our mind we contrasted our reception with what it might have been elsewhere. No cannons fired as at Chamounix. No “bouquet of flowers” as we remember at St. Gervais. No “vin d’honneur,” no anything. We sat down to breakfast, and felt very much as if we had done something wrong without having done it.

“NOW, LOOK AT THESE CHOCKAS”!!!

One thing is quite certain, the appetite of the two mountaineers had not lost anything by the expedition. Breakfast being completed, we adjourned with our note-book to the cool shade of some rocks just above the road. Esmeralda came to talk to us as we wrote. Two or three lines went tolerably easy, then the pencil and note-book glided from our hand, and we fell fast asleep till mid-day.

As we awoke, we perceived the silent figure of Esmeralda still watching by us. It was found to be time for dinner and we returned to our tents.

Two Swedish travellers were at RÖdsheim. They had visited our tents before we returned from the GaldhÖpiggen. One young traveller spoke some English; he said we came to see the pretty valleys and the pretty girls, but we see no pretty girls. We went to a sÆter, and they offer us a bed, but we see it was dirt, and sleep in the grass. He then asked them if we could speak Romany. “Oh, yes,” said Zachariah, “he taught us, sir.” Then he inquired how we learned it. “I don’t know, sir,” answered Zachariah, “but he has books.”

In arranging our things before tea time, we fancied that the aquavit in our flask had somewhat diminished since the replenishment for the two artists. The subject being mentioned to Esmeralda, for we were always plain with them, Noah seemed so hurt, that at last our suspicions were disarmed. We were not very certain; we, at any rate, blamed Noah for buying such brandy at Veblungsnoes; it was peculiarly muddy in appearance. We had always found Noah honest, so we ultimately left the matter in the same inextricable confusion we had found it, freely giving him the benefit of all doubt. Having written a letter or two and entered a memorandum of our ascent in the guest-book at Ole’s, he came to our tents and had tea. As we left the house to return to our tents we met the two artists at the door, Who we found were going to remain at the station for the night.

Ole RÖdsheim had given us so much satisfaction as guide, that we determined to engage him again. We paid him three dollars, two marks, and twelve skillings for his previous services, which included our ascent of the GaldhÖpiggen. Another engagement was made to take us through the mountains to the MÖrk Fos, and vi Eisbod and the Tyen Vand to the Bergen road, near Skogstad. It was arranged that he should have four marks a day and two days’ pay, eight marks more, for his return home; this amount to include Ole’s board and lodging.

Having carefully gone through the maps of the different routes with Ole, we decided to start the next day.

The blacksmith, who was a sober, sedate looking man, had come occasionally to the log hut during the day to make our kettle prop in the most approved gipsy fashion, size, and shape. Imagine his horror and astonishment, when he returned, after an absence, to find Mephistopheles hammering a piece of iron into some inconceivable shape; sparks flying, tools freely used, fire blazing, and anvil ringing. The usurpation was almost too much for him. With a caution to Zachariah to keep to his own affairs, and explaining the matter to Ole as an unfortunate instance of out-of-place ingenuity, the kettle prop was ultimately finished and Noah’s Alpine stock mended at a cost of three marks and a half.

This was to be our last evening at RÖdsheim. We were honoured by a visit from one of the beaux of the village, who danced at Laurgaard. Alas! there was no more dancing for our beau. The girls were either engaged in the harvest or at the Soeters. All the peasants were now busy in their harvest. The farmer was carrying hay on the steep slope of the valley opposite our tent. Ole had a large flock of goats brought in; the largest number we saw together in Norway. The handsome artist, whose photograph hung in the station at RÖdsheim, came to see our tents at about ten at night; we were just going to bed, so he did not remain long. The Swedish travellers had left, we hope, to see many pretty girls before they returned home. We did not see them to speak to, or we should have recommended them to visit Skeaker.

Tolerably well rested, we were up at six o’clock on Tuesday, the 2nd of August. At seven we had breakfast of broiled bacon, bread, and tea; Noah soon after struck the tents, and the things were packed up; a goat’s cheese and a “myse ost,”94 and all the bread Ole could spare, was added to our commissariat. The station at RÖdsheim is well supplied with excellent bread, beer, tea, biscuits, potatoes, and, in fact, most requirements which constitute the comfort of the hungry tourist. They are comfortable quarters, and the house very clean and well ventilated. We had no opportunity of seeing the sleeping accommodation, but if we could form an opinion from what we saw below, we have very little doubt that travellers are well cared for in that respect.

Our cost for provisions, butter, cheese, bread, potatoes, eggs, and milk, came to two dollars, three marks, and fifteen skillings; and we paid three marks, eight skillings additional postage of letters vi Lom. Some of the bread and cheese we took with us for future consumption. At ten o’clock we took our departure after we had wished Mrs. RÖdsheim farewell. She was a quiet, delicate, person, but very neat and industrious and attentive. The artists were still companions of Morpheus, so we left them a song each, and made Mrs. RÖdsheim the present of an English book. To Ole, also, we gave one of our songs. We also left the last “London News,” and copies of the “Standard” at the station, and so ended our pleasant visit at RÖdsheim.

Noah and Zachariah went on before us with the merles and baggage. Ourself and Esmeralda sat upon a rock a short distance above RÖdsheim waiting for Ole to come up. The valley at this point widens; the river is very broad, shallow, and picturesque, before it loses itself in the deep rocky gorge at RÖdsheim.

The scene was so charming and the morning so lovely we could have lingered there with hours of pleasure. In the distance up the valley we could see the small wooden church of Boeverdal; but Ole is come, and we must away.

Ole equipped for the mountains. He had high Norwegian boots, lacing up, much resembling the ladies’ Alpine tourist boot, but of course of rougher make. Ole had left his dark coat behind him, so as to be more at ease. His trousers were tied round the leg below the knee with pieces of cord; he had his knapsack, wallet, and staff. The photograph represents Ole Halvorsen, of RÖdsheim, near Lom, as he appears in his coat. We esteemed ourselves fortunate in having secured the services of a guide in every way trustworthy, and thoroughly acquainted with an extensive region of mountain land. Ole was in the best period of his life, when man’s strength and experience unite in maturity; as the the companion of the reindeer hunter and Alpine tourist he is invaluable; never makes difficulties, speaks English well, will do the best he can to save expense, talks little, but to the purpose, is always ready for a start at whatever early hour you name. Turning along the mountain road from the valley to the left of the church, we overtook Noah and Zachariah. We were told that service is performed in the church every fourth Sunday. It was built, Ole said, for 2000 dollars; 500 dollars from Government, 500 dollars secured by a chief rent, and 1000 dollars contributed by the inhabitants. Not much of our morning route had been accomplished, when we came to a narrow bridge over a wild, rapid, foaming, torrent, rushing over a declivity. Vain was our attempt to get any of the donkeys over the bridge. It was amusing to see the fierce contention; gipsies pulling, gipsies pushing, Ole and ourself mixed up in the general struggle without avail. Then we determined to force them through the torrent, which rushing swiftly over large stones, and then falling in cascades below, was difficult to wade. We could not remain all day. One donkey was forced in, and got safe through; another, also, but the third, which was rather heavily laden, would not stir till Mephistopheles suddenly jumped on the top of the baggage. The donkey was soon staggering through, guided by Zachariah in the rough rocks of the stream. For a moment, the animal faltered in its foot-hold. Are they both to be carried down the roaring cascades? Another plunge, and by good fortune, the donkey reached firm ground and more shallow water; they were soon safely landed.

Very thankful we were that Zachariah had come out of the adventure safely. We had no desire to lose our Mephistopheles, and if he had not suddenly mounted on the spur of the moment we should have prevented him from incurring such a risk.

The route was delightful; sometimes through forest scenes and along the mountain stream, till at last we came to the Elv Soeter at about half-past twelve o’clock.

The Elv Soeter is now a large farm, though originally it was, as the name indicates, probably nothing but a mountain soeter.