They played on the guitar until the warm day had given place to the starry night. I sat on my balcony, and looked on with pleasure at the gaiety of youth.

In Spain. Hans Christian Andersen.

WE LEAVE THE BEINA—THE LILLE PIGE—ANY PORT IN A STORM—THE FAIRIES’ VISIT—THE SPIRILEN—YTRE AADALEN VAL—LARGE BONDEGAARD—HEEN WOODLAND CAMP—EVENING VISITORS—THE HÖNEFOS—INTELLIGENT POSTMASTER—NORDERHOUG CHURCH—HALT NEAR VIK—THE GIPSIES’ POLITICAL PHILOSOPHY—NOAH AND THE PHILANTHROPIST—STEENS FJORD—THE KROGKLEVEN—BEAUTIFUL GORGE—CAMP NEAR THE KING’S VIEW.

Noah and Zachariah quickly loaded the donkeys;119 one of the boatmen showed us the way. We followed a track from the river through the wood. An old boat near the river, in the wood, turned on one side, with the marks of a fire having been lighted before it, showed that it had been used as a bivouac.

Passing through the court of a large house, near the wood, we shortly afterwards, entered by a gate into a pleasant shady way, leading along the left shore of the Spirilen Lake. A large crowd were still watching our cavalcade from the house.

It was about twenty minutes past ten o’clock, when we left the river Beina;120 a halt was called at eleven, in a wood, on the shores of the Spirilen.

Our middags-mad consisted of soup, made of potatoes, ham, bacon, and Liebig’s essence, with addition of some grÖd.

Zachariah went fishing, but was unsuccessful. The rain commenced, and we either slept, or wrote our notes from about two o’clock until four o’clock.

Again we were all on the move. Following the rough track through the fir-forest, we had pleasing vistas of the lake. Then we came to where some men were making a new road, and sometimes, we had to change from the old road, on to the new portion, lately opened for traffic; passing BjÖnvicken to Engordden the road had enclosures, and farms on either side. About six o’clock we noticed the steamer going up the lake to Noes. At one place, we passed a new house, which appeared to have a shop. Soon after, a little girl followed us with something wrapped in a white napkin. It occurred to us, to send Noah back, and see if he could get bread. The little girl at once guessed what we wanted, and told us bread could be purchased, at six skillings a loaf. She was a neatly dressed, intelligent little girl, and we gave her 3 skillings for her information; she at once seized our hand, and said tak; soon afterwards she went into a house on the roadside.

There were nothing but inclosures for some distance. The evening was rapidly closing; on we pushed: no camp ground; still we hurried along. We were now on a part of the road recently made, and must shortly sleep somewhere. At last, just at dark, a small driftway was noticed, to a narrow strip of new-mown turf, between the road, and the lake. No time for hesitation; the donkeys were quickly driven down to the turf. Some high bushes formed a screen from the road, and a shelter for ourselves. A boat was moored on the sandy beach near. The donkeys were at once unloaded in a quiet corner, a fire was lighted on the shore, and our water quickly boiled.121 Zachariah was on the look-out for Noah, who soon came with three loaves of bread, which had cost a mark. The tents were at once pitched. Our gipsies made short work of tea, bread and cheese. “Let’s gell to our woodrus,”122 said Noah. “Cushty ratti,”123 said we; and they were soon asleep. It was a dark murky night, as we sat by the dying embers of our fire. Gradually the rain increased, and we retired to our tent. The turf had been newly mown, and was delicious to rest upon. We listened to the boat rising and falling on the waves, as they dashed in the night wind, on the sandy shore. It had rained heavily during the night, accompanied by lightning. Between two and three o’clock in the morning we were up, the morning was dark and cloudy, with misty rain. Fire was lighted; Noah warmed up some simmin (gip., soup),124 saved from yesterday’s middags-mad; we had also tea, and bread and cheese—an odd combination—which was hastily disposed of. The top of a house could be seen on the other side the road, close above us: the inhabitants little thought they had visitors sleeping just below them. It is probable that they would be sorely puzzled, when they went for the boat’s paddles, in the bushes behind our tent, to see the impression on the turf—the impression left by our sleeping forms. Perhaps they might think, some Huldre or fairy had been there: at any rate, we did not wait to elucidate the occurrence, which may be involved in mystery to this day. At five o’clock, animals, baggage, and gipsies were well on the road towards Finsand.

There was something exciting in our wanderings. Our animals still continued quite equal to their work, and every day decreased the weight of the commissariat; the weight they had to carry was now much lighter. At eight o’clock we halted on the margin of an open bay of the Spirilen Lake, near some houses. As we were having another meal of cold bacon, meat, and bread and cheese, and tea, we saw the steamer pass down the lake from Noes. A woman and a man came and wanted to buy one of the donkeys.

At nine o’clock, we were again on the move towards Somdalen. Then we came to a narrow channel of the lake, through which the steamers pass to the Aadals Elv. The road, after passing through Somdalen, continued through fir-forests, and pleasant scenes. At one part of the forest, we saw some wood pigeons, and at another, a jackdaw. When we had passed Somdalen, we halted again; our rest was on a greensward surrounded by a stream, in an open space below the road, surrounded by a wood. It was a nice secluded spot. We halted at a quarter to twelve; the sun was warm and pleasant; we had tea, fried ham, and bread. Esmeralda’s spirits were in the ascendant. We left at twenty-five minutes to two o’clock. Our way was through beautiful forests, which reminded us of some of the wild scenes of Australia. As to Mephistopheles, he was buzzing about like a butterfly; we nearly crushed him once or twice.

At last we came to a large farm on the borders of the forest, by Ytre Aadalen Val. The road led from the forest, over a rise of open cultivated ground, near a large and convenient gaard. We had lingered behind. As we again came up with our gipsies, they were passing over the cultivated land near the gaard. The master of the Bondegaard, a stout man, and apparently his wife and two daughters, and a large retinue of dependants, were grouped to see us pass. They surveyed us with curiosity, but did not speak. Scarcely had our gipsies got out of hearing, than one of the dependants was the subject of severe criticism.

“Look at that country gorgio,” said Mephistopheles.

“Ha,ha!” said Esmeralda; “why, he’s a kok-y-yock” (cock-eye).

“No,” said Noah; “that’s our varnon.”125

“O nei! O nei!” said Mephistopheles; “peen giÆre, peen giÆre!”

Somebody was extinguished, and order was restored. Gipsies, as a rule, not being educated, and having a great amount of gaiety, and physical energy, in default, occasionally, of rational conversation, seize upon circumstances, and things, of the most minor importance, to occupy their attention, in a warfare of Romany chaff against everyone, and everything, with singular expression, tempered with strange energy, and lively spirit.

The master of the Bondegaard was exceedingly stout, and we reasoned afterwards, upon the inconvenience of being so stout, and the advantage of a gipsy life, in keeping the body, in its proper symmetrical proportions.

Now we are in the forest again, and this portion of our route, is much more beautiful than we expected. The Spirilen does not rival many of the Norwegian lakes, though there are many pleasant scenes along its shores.

At this part of our route we saw some of the most lofty spruce-fir we had seen during our wanderings in Norway.

We were now fast coming towards Heen, where the steamer meets, we were told, the railway to the Rands Fjord.

Through the forest we went. Esmeralda, who was so lively at our last halt, seemed getting tired, and wanted to ride, but our camp rule did not allow it. Again, we hoped soon to halt: the heroine of our book was not to be neglected, and lost by the way, for the want of care and proper attention.

Soon after we descended a steep declivity in the forest, and came upon a charming glade on a stream, which, we believe, is called the Voels Elv. At the foot of the declivity, flowed its shallow stream of water. On the left of the forest-way, before we reached the stream, we saw some open green turf, secluded by clumps of forest trees, and beyond, and on all sides, a woodland of apparently interminable forest, as far as the eye could reach. ’Twas a lovely spot for the tired Esmeralda to repose.

The tents were put up at once in the open glade, near the flowing stream. We were soon engaged writing letters. Esmeralda was washing at a fire near a clump of trees, not far from the stream. Noah was making a basket. A tall blacksmith, as we supposed him to be, carrying a rifle, came to our tents. He told us there were wolves, and bears in the forest. Then we had afterwards, a party of three gentlemen, and a lady; they were very nice people. One dark, good-looking young gentleman, spoke English. We were pleased to see them at our tents. They inspected our camp, Russian lamp, cooking apparatus, and our donkeys. They seemed much pleased. It would have given us pleasure to have known more of them.

It was, indeed, a beautiful camping-ground, in a large wild forest. Our fourth meal this day—for we had crowded on considerable sail—consisted of tea, sardines, bread and cheese. At nine o’clock, all were resting in our tents. It is noted in our impressions, that the evenings get colder and shorter, chilly and damp.

Friday, the 19th of August; we are again stirring at twenty minutes past three o’clock. Up rise our three gipsies, in the wild Norwegian forest: en avant is the word.

As we were standing by our camp-fire, we heard footsteps; a man and a boy appeared at that early hour, to see our donkeys. They were astonished to find anyone already up and moving.

The frokost consisted of tea, biscuits, and cheese. Our donkeys loaded, we moved off at six o’clock. Noah left his unfinished basket on our camp-ground, as a souvenir. Soon we passed under the arch of the Rands Fjord Railway. Then the road lay through enclosures, and we came in sight of HÖnefos.

Before we entered the town of HÖnefos, we cautioned Mephistopheles, as to propriety of conduct. It was, perhaps, about nine o’clock; many people came out of their houses, and anxiously inquired what the donkeys were. Mephistopheles called for a glass of sherry, and imitated a drunken man, until he was called to attention. A civil Norwegian coming up, we inquired for the Postaabneri and a krambod.

Keeping Noah with us, we sent the donkeys and baggage through the town, in care of Esmeralda and Zachariah. Coming into a sort of square, our first visit was the post-office; we went into a court-yard, and entering the back of a house, we soon found ourselves in a small room, with a kind of bank counter, behind which sat a respectable-looking, pale, intelligent man. By his side, he had an ear-trumpet, for he was deaf; behind him, he had shelves, filled with books; on his long table, he had writing materials, documents, and papers relating to his duties. He spoke in English with a very good accent; we wrote our answers, for he was deaf. The postage of our English letter, was sixteen skillings, and four skillings each for our letters to Christiania. Readily giving us some information, about the steamers with mails from Christiania, we left our civil postmaster. The war seemed the all-engrossing topic of the time, and we had, of course, some converse on the subject.

Our next visit was to the shop, where we bought five pounds of sugar, for three marks eight skillings; five loaves of bread, for one mark six skillings; and, at a baker’s, we bought two loaves of bread, for eight skillings and six cakes for six skillings.

HÖnefos is a spirited town, and a pretty one. Crossing the HÖnefos Bridge we soon rejoined our baggage. As we ascended a hill, and continued our route along the new road, which is being made, we had a beautiful view of the town.

A French gentleman, who was driving towards the HÖnefos, had asked Esmeralda and Zachariah, if they were French.

Soon afterwards we came to an iron mile-stone, marked five miles to Christiania og Dramen (thirty-five English miles).

Then we saw Norderhoug church. It is large, as compared with many of the Norwegian churches we had seen. The parsonage and village have an air of substantial comfort. Geese and ducks, and cherry-trees were seen for the first time during our wanderings in Norway. This village is noted for the destruction of a small Swedish force, which was quartered at the Parsonage House in 1716.

Still following onwards along our route, we came to enclosed lands, which appeared quite as fertile as any we had seen. Here and there, the harvest people would hurry towards the road fence, to catch a sight of our donkeys, as they passed. Some asked one question, some another. Our gipsies answered wildly any Norwegian word at hand, or ya! ya! Now we meet a carriage and pair, and the gentleman takes off his hat, which we of course acknowledge.

At length we halt on the right of the road on the hill above “Vik Station,” on some rocky open ground.

It was twelve o’clock. Our gipsies obtained some water for our tea at the Vik Station from their private supply. A servant girl, and man, with some children from the station, brought our donkeys some grass. It was a kindly thought. The sun was warm as we sat amid the rocks and heath. Whatever faults our gipsies have they are not tainted with Fenianism or Communistic ideas. They have ever held for Monarchy, and even among themselves, they have from time to time, their kings and queens. Our gipsies are extremely ignorant of political philosophy. They do know that her Majesty Queen Victoria, is the Queen of England. The names of Disraeli and Gladstone had not yet reached them.126 They have no Romany words for political regeneration; they take no interest in the rights of man. Let them follow their wild nomadic life, they are satisfied. The Queen has worse subjects than our gipsies. It is possible that tall Noah, would answer a political philanthropist, much in the words of the “needy knife-grinder,”—“I shall be glad to drink your honour’s health, in a pot of beer, if you will give me sixpence, but, for my part, I never love to meddle with politics, sir.”

It is probable that tall Noah might be answered in the well-known words of the philanthropist,—“Wretch, whom no sense of wrongs can rouse to vengeance; sordid, unfeeling reprobate, degraded, spiritless outcast!”

Then we can only say it would be very inconvenient for the philanthropist, if he was within a mile of tall Noah’s tent.

Our middags-mad consisted of tea, bread, butter, and cheese.127 At half-past three o’clock we were once more en route for the Krogkleven. Descending the hill by the Vik Station, the master of the station came out. We halted the donkeys for him to see them. He is a very pleasant man. The station seems very comfortable. It is mentioned, that there is good fishing near.

Reaching the shore of the Steens Fjord, a storm seemed to be gathering. Then, as we came to a fisherman’s house, and saw him leave with his boat, and nets, we deemed it a sure harbinger of calm weather. Soon after the threatened storm cleared away. We crossed the bridge over the Steens Fjord to Sundvolden.

The magnificent cliffs of the Krogkleven were now above us. A man pointed out the Kongen’s Udsigt or King’s View. At Sundvolden they accommodate travellers. The house seems large and commodious. They have a pleasure garden, with a small fountain, but we observed that the garden lacked taste in arrangement, and freshness, and beauty in flowers.

When our cavalcade passed the large open space in front of the station, a tall, pale, young Norwegian, apparently belonging to the house, said to Noah, with some authority, “Hvor fra reisen de.”128 Noah, who was in advance, probably did not understand, or as usual, did not answer every inquisitive question, and kept pushing on. Immediately after we commenced the steep ascent to the heights of the Krogkleven. It is generally said, that the ascent to the Kongen’s Udsigt takes about an hour. Very shortly afterwards, we were overtaken by the pale young Norwegian, with an elder companion, who took off his hat, and bowed. He said, in excellent English, that he had seen an account of us in the newspapers. He owned a farm in the neighbourhood, and wished to buy one of our donkeys. Explaining that we had already promised one as a present, and that we should probably take the other two to England, after a short conversation he left. The road was most picturesque. It would have been a sad omission, had we left Norway, without returning by this route. In about three-quarters of an hour, we reached the house at the top of the gorge. A woman lives in the house, which being near the King and Queen’s View, is used for the temporary reception of travellers, and pic-nic parties. From the large open space, at the summit of the ascent, the main road, now level and flat, passes through the forest towards Christiania. A track leads through the woods on one side to the Kongens Udsigt,129 and on the other to the Dronning’s Udsigt.130 At the summit of the ascent near the house, a large board is fixed up, upon which is painted the figure of a navvy, with his spade; an iron box is placed under, with a narrow slit, to receive money, for the benefit of the men who made the road. We read de haute voix, for the satisfaction of Esmeralda, the following inscription:—

We gave a mark. The inscription is also written in Danish and German.

From this point we were now only twenty-one English miles from Christiania.

As we were copying the inscription, Noah and Zachariah, had proceeded onwards, along the road towards Christiania.

After following them about a mile, we returned back in a heavy shower of rain, to camp on the open space at the head of the Krogkleven gorge.