“...... Oh, who can tell The hidden power of hearbes, and might of magicke spell?” Spenser. Perhaps no other country can vie with Great Britain in the vast number of edible species of fungi that may be gathered during all seasons of the year, from one end of the land to the other. The pastures and woodlands literally teem with them; they are, however (sad to say), little known, sadly neglected, or looked upon with unmerited suspicion. The literature, too, of the subject is so small, and the scientific part of the study so extremely difficult to begin, that few persons dare venture to test the qualities of any fungus except the meadow mushroom, and instances are common enough where even this species is rejected. It is apparent that no one can be a sure guide to others who is not himself a “regular fungus eater,” and that no descriptions can be of value, or drawings of use, unless they are taken with the greatest care from the objects themselves. To the best of my ability, Although the following statement may be difficult to understand, it is nevertheless a fact, that many men do not know what a mushroom is at all, but will eat anything. I will give an instance: A year or two ago, a man in the north of England cooked a large batch of what he called mushrooms, for supper, and succeeded in poisoning his wife and family to death, and himself nearly to death. Some of the things The twenty-nine species figured on the “Edible Sheet” are most of them abundant, and instantly recognizable when seen, and every one is a wholesome and delicious object of food, full of aroma and flavour. I invite my readers to partake of the bountiful feast spread in our rich pastures and shady woodlands all over the country for all who care to partake. “Mushrooms and Toadstools.”—These two words embrace the whole of the knowledge possessed by the people at large regarding the immense fungus tribe of this country. If we take the mushroom type of fungus as an example, we have some seven hundred species, all possessing a certain general similitude of form. This has caused many to look upon fungi in common as equivocal productions, difficult or impossible to distinguish as permanent species; but when the study is once entered upon When the study of the whole of the British Fungi is embraced, it is true there are many difficulties in the way, for we find some plants closely approaching the algÆ and others the lichens; but when it is only the larger fungi that it is proposed to discriminate, the task is much easier, the number being limited to about twelve hundred species. If the orders Agaricini and Polyporei We have but one species popularly recognized as esculent—viz., the common meadow mushroom (Agaricus campestris). A very near ally of the “meadow mushroom,” and a most delicious species when fresh,—viz., the so-called “horse mushroom” (Agaricus arvensis)—is nearly always rejected by country-folks as dangerous. This large and wholesome species is the one commonly sold in Covent Garden Market as the true mushroom, where, if fresh specimens can be procured, it is a welcome addition to the table. The fairy-ring Champignon (certainly one of the most exquisitely delicious of all our fungi) is generally neglected, or regarded with great suspicion. Under the name of “champillion,” however, it is well known to the weavers and labouring men of the east of London, who may be seen gathering it in considerable numbers any autumn day amongst the short grass of Victoria Park. The fragrant and luscious “Chantarelle,” the “rare Morel,” and the sweet and tender giant puff-ball, are almost universally kicked aside or altogether neglected. Amongst the species supposed to be popular is Agaricus personatus, said to be sold in Covent Garden Market. I have never seen it there, or heard of its presence. In the West of England and some other places I have heard these plants called “Blue-its” (Blewits), in reference to the blue colour round the upper part of the stem. It is a most substantial and delicious species, and should be better known; but I imagine it is rather uncommon, as I have seldom gathered There is no other way of distinguishing a poisonous from an edible fungus than by finding out its name; there is no magic way of saving the trouble of learning, by the insertion of a silver spoon in a stew. If, on tasting a fungus, it burns the tongue like the contact of scalding water (as several species do), the probability is that it An important character to be observed in fungi is the presence of a volva, or matrix, at the base of the stem (present in figs. 7 and 8, absent in figs. 11 and 12, Poisonous Sheet), and in the annulus, or ring, round the stem towards the top (present in figs. 1 and 7, absent in figs. 14 and 15, Poisonous Sheet). In the determination of species a great deal depends, too, upon the colour of the spores, or seeds. These are readily obtained by removing the stalk of the species to be examined, and placing the top gills lowermost on a piece of glass. In a few hours the spores will be deposited in a thick dust, and will vary (according to the species) from pure white to pink, yellow, red, brown, purple, or jet black. The gills often take their colours from the spores. It is a very great mistake to imagine that the “Sudden Mushroom” grows in a single night. The growth of mushrooms takes a considerable time—often many weeks. The young fungi exist just beneath or upon the surface of the earth in a compressed and narrowed compass. It is during this period that all the cells are formed, and the mushroom itself fashioned; but, being in a squeezed and concentrated form, it is commonly overlooked. On the advent of a wet or humid night, the cells forming the fungus are expanded and I have not thought it necessary to repeat long descriptions of how the various species may, or may not, be cooked; it has been done to a great extent before. It is apparent that the addition of “good beef gravy,” “a few slices of fowl,” “rich veal stuffing,” and various other savoury condiments, must occasionally give an extra zest to a dish of mushrooms; but broiled, stewed, or pickled, most species are “always good alike”; indeed, mushrooms, in their whole composition, resemble meat in so remarkable a manner, that any methods of cookery in vogue for delicate preparations of meat, apply with equal force The various species suitable for storing up for future use—such as the Morel, Champignon, &c.—may be readily dried in a current of air, in a sunny window, or in a cool oven, and then kept in tins, or threaded on strings and kept in a very dry place. Occasionally this process goes a step further, and the mushrooms (of any species) are dried to such an extent as to be readily pulverized; the dust is then known and sold as “mushroom powder.” Housewives will now and then pickle mushrooms, by throwing them into scalding vinegar, allowing them to boil for ten minutes or so, and then, by adding cayenne, mace, nutmeg, or spices, adapt them to their various tastes. The liquor extracted from the various edible mushrooms, under the name of “ketchup,” is used in every kitchen, and the mode of preparation is probably known to all. It simply consists of placing the freshly-gathered plants in earthen jars with layers of salt; after a few hours the ketchup exudes in abundance from the fungi; and the process is ultimately completed by mashing the remains of the mushrooms with the hands. It should then be strained and boiled with spice and Nearly every species figured on the Edible Sheet will produce ketchup of good quality, if treated with salt in an earthen jar. The Champignon and Horse Mushroom may be specially referred to as producing this condiment of an excellent quality. The juice exuded from the truffle in boiling is highly relished by many, as is the deep blood-red juice that runs from the “liver fungus” when cut. This, when seasoned with salt and pepper, and boiled, has a very delicious and stimulating flavour. Since these notes and the following descriptions were written, my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose, architect, has sent me a list of twenty-eight species he has eaten, most of which are figured on the “Edible Sheet”; the other species mentioned by him and not figured on the sheet are referred to in the descriptions. The nomenclature of the species is the same with that given by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley in his “Outlines of British Fungology”; the numbers inserted after the scientific name refer to my large drawings in the Food Department of the Bethnal Green Museum, where, if the student so desires, he may see dissections of the species. |