(Agaricus [Amanita] rubescens.)7.

This species is generally abundant in all woody places, making its first appearance in early summer and continuing till late in the autumn. It is known by its brown warty top, its white gills, and perfect ring encircling the bulbous stem. It frequently attains a large size, and its whole substance, when touched, bruised, or broken, becomes sienna-red. This species is one of the most beautiful as well as valuable of all the British Agarics. If care be taken to select young and fresh specimens only, when prepared for the table, it will prove a very light and delicate addition to any meal. Mr. Berkeley does not subscribe to the excellence of this species; but as far as my own experience and that of many friends go, I well know it to be delicious and perfectly wholesome. Mr. Penrose writes me: “Old specimens are very indigestible.” This I imagine contains the whole secret of its questionable name amongst some who have (or have not) tried it.

(Boletus edulis.)610.

Frequently attaining enormous dimensions, and first appearing during the summer or early autumn rains, this fungus is one of our commonest and most delicious species. Like the last, it grows in woods and forests, and may be at once known by the following characters: it is generally very stout, with a smooth, umber, cushion-shaped top, tubes at first white and ultimately pale yellowish-green; stem whitish-brown, marked with a minute white and very elegant reticulated network, principally near the top of the ringless stem; when cut or broken, the fleshy body of the plant continues pure white. In this, as in every other species, sound young specimens should be selected, and it is perhaps as well to scrape away the tubes before preparation for the table. Whether boiled, stewed with salt, pepper, and butter, fried, or roasted with onions and butter, this species proves itself one of the most delicious and tender objects of food ever submitted to the operation of cooking. It is not the plant referred to by the ancient Roman satiric poets; but at Rome (in the present day) this species, in company with peaches and Agaricus cÆsareus, is sold at every street corner, our common meadow mushroom, though abundant enough there, being disregarded.

B. scaber (615) is sometimes eaten. From personal experience, Mr. Penrose says: “Young specimens are good—old, very flat.”

B. Æstivalis (612) is of rare excellence; it appears in the early summer, sometimes in abundance, at Highgate.

Before I properly knew B. edulis, I ate all sorts of Boleti in mistake for it, notably B. chrysenteron.

(Russula heterophylla.)522.

This is a very common species in woods, known by its sweet nutty taste; white, rigid, sometimes branched, gills; white flesh; white, solid, fleshy, ringless stem; and firm top, variable in colour, which is at first convex, at last concave. The colour of the thin viscid skin covering the top of the fungus is commonly subdued green, but (as its name indicates) the colour is variable: at one time it approaches greenish-yellow, or lilac, and at another grey or obscure purple; but it is so common and well marked that, with the assistance of the figure, there is no fear of mistaking it for anything else. There is a stouter, more rigid plant, with forked gills and a bitter taste (R. furcata), that had better be avoided. A third green Russula (R. virescens), immediately known by its rigid substance, its top broken up into large rough emerald-green patches, and with no viscid skin, is an excellent addition to the table.

Russula heterophylla is highly esteemed by many, and is certainly one of the sweetest and mildest species we have. It is excellent stewed in an oven, with salt, pepper, and butter, between two dishes.

(Clavaria vermiculata.)843.

This species is frequently very common in pastures and meadows, on lawns and by roadsides, in the wet weather of autumn. It grows in bundles; is brittle; the clubs are pointed and very white. If a few bundles be gathered, cleaned, and stewed or broiled, they will form a novel and tasty adjunct to any dish, and when once tried will be eagerly sought for in future. Coloured Clavarias had better remain where found growing, as their gastronomic qualities are doubtful.

(Agaricus [Psalliota] campestris.)316.

A large volume might be written about this species, the only one popularly recognized in this country as edible. It is common in rich meadows everywhere, perhaps all over the world, and varies in a remarkable manner, by imperceptible gradations approaching and blending with the horse mushroom, fig. 9: its varieties are distinguished by five or six different names, but the characters run into each other so much, and are frequently so slight and transient, that they are often difficult to appreciate. One form is found growing in woods (A. silvicola). I have often gathered it in the Highgate woods, but from its suspicious aspect would not advise its general use; though I have frequently eaten it with no ill effect. There is another most beautiful variety I have frequently gathered in the meadows on the south side of Lord Mansfield’s woods at Hampstead (A. pratensis), with a very hairy top, the hairs grouped in patches like ermine. When broken, the flesh changes to a pale but vivid rose-colour. If possible, this form exceeds in excellence and piquancy of flavour the common form of our pastures. Several very distinct varieties are cultivated in beds and stoves, which occasionally appear in our markets; but none exceed our delicious indigenous meadow mushroom, as found in the autumn in rich pastures.

Bon fide mushrooms are known by their beautiful pink gills (in which state they are best fit for use), ultimately becoming deep brown, and not reaching the stem, which stem carries a well-marked white woolly ring; by the very fleshy down-covered top, the delicious and enticing fragrance and the firm white flesh, sometimes inclined to pink when cut or broken: the plant is so well known and so highly esteemed in this country that it is hardly necessary to say a word in its favour, or repeat methods of preparing it for the table. Butter, spice, parsley, sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and sometimes the squeeze of a lemon, appear to be in the greatest request; but whether boiled, pickled, stewed, fried, or prepared in any other way, it is equally delicious in all. It seldom appears in Covent Garden Market; the dealers there are content to find a sale, at a high price, for stale horse mushrooms. Much has been written at various times regarding the apocryphal “inspector of the Roman markets,” who consigns mushrooms to the Tiber, but the facts have been much exaggerated. Agaricus campestris is not generally appreciated in Italy, is seldom eaten, and never appears in the markets, for the simple reason that there would be no sale for it. There is an edict in existence ordering certain fungi to be thrown into the Tiber, but it is now, and has long been, altogether effete; and whilst there is an abundance of A. cÆsareus (by some said to be the most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of Italy, it is not to be expected that the consumption of this latter plant will be given up for another and less-known species. It is probable that Agaricus cÆsareus may one day be found in the southern parts of this country; if so, it will be known by its smooth wartless crimson top, its yellow gills, and stout white stem springing from a large wrapper at the base (like fig. 7, Poisonous Sheet).

The ketchup made from the meadow mushroom is, not without reason, looked upon as the best, although it may be obtained from many other species. I have seen persons gathering fungi for ketchup (to be sold in the markets), putting almost anything into their baskets so long as the species appeared likely to yield a black juice.

I have known cows to be very fond of mushrooms; and a friend of mine in the country (who has more than once seen his cows, in the morning, go from mushroom to mushroom till all are consumed) goes regularly over his pastures every morning in the autumn, before the cattle are turned in, to secure the first gathering of the fungus crop. Sheep, squirrels, birds, and many other animals commonly eat raw mushrooms and other fungi.

(Russula alutacea.)536.

This is one of the principal ornaments of our woods in summer and autumn, and is readily recognized by its thick gills, which are of a subdued but decided buff-yellow colour, and the somewhat viscid red, or pale crimson top. The stem is stout, white or rose-colour, ringless, and solid; the whole plant fleshy, and frequently very large. The gills immediately distinguish it from the emetic mushroom (fig. 21, Poisonous Sheet), as in the latter they are pure white, and always remain so; there are, too, other great differences between the two species noted in the description of the emetic mushroom.

The taste of Russula alutacea is particularly agreeable and mild, and, when well prepared for the table, few species prove more satisfactory to the consumer. Dr. Badham (by an error) takes some exception to it.

(Clavaria rugosa.)827.

This species, common in woody places, is usually pure white, pale grey, or shaded with cream-colour; the clubs are irregular, somewhat wrinkled and tough. Treated in the same way as C. vermiculata, it will prove equally acceptable, agreeable, and novel. All the white-spored species are believed to be esculent.

I have not tried C. coralloides, an allied species, which is greatly branched, but it is esteemed as an esculent.

(Cantharellus cibarius.)539.

The chantarelle cannot be called very common, but it is abundant in many districts; its solid, ringless stem, fleshy body, thick swollen veins in the place of gills, and brilliant yellow colour, at once serve to distinguish it from every other species. “Its smell,” says Berkeley, “is like that of ripe apricots.” Sometimes (as I have frequently seen in Epping Forest and elsewhere) immense numbers grow together; at other times they are very few. Chantarelles often cover a hedge-bank where there are trees close by; and wherever they do appear they must enlist the admiration of the passer-by, for they look as if made of solid gold. When cooked, this species has a rich mushroom-like flavour peculiarly its own, and may be prepared for the table in various ways, according to the fancy of the consumer: but being big and solid, it should be cut up; and, if stewed, allowed to simmer gently, and be served with pepper, salt, and butter. There is a curious, thin, pale, slender variety, found growing in pastures about old stumps, which I have never eaten, and from its curious aspect, habitat, and comparative rarity, I think it hardly worth the experiment, but it may be esculent. There is a very pale, almost white, variety of the chantarelle, and one quite without the apricot odour.

(Agaricus [Psalliota] arvensis.)317.

This species, the A. exquisitus of Dr. Badham, is very nearly allied to the meadow mushroom, and frequently grows with it, but it is coarser, and has not the same delicious flavour. It is usually much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; and it turns a brownish-yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good specimens is smooth and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of the meadow mushroom, but dirty brownish-white, ultimately becoming brown black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and its pithy stem is inclined to be hollow. It is the species exposed for sale in Covent Garden Market. Indeed, after knowing the market for many years, I have rarely seen any other species there; when the true mushroom, however, is there, it is frequently mingled with horse mushrooms, which seems to show that the dealers do not know one from the other. In the wet days of autumn, children, idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town into the meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mushroom line; they then bring their dirty stock to market, where it is sold to fashionable purchasers; stale, vapid, and with no taste but a bad one.

When young and fresh, the horse mushroom is a most desirable addition to the bill of fare; it yields an abundant gravy, and the flesh is firm and delicious. It is a valuable plant when freshly gathered; but when stale it becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or juice.

There is a curious large, brown, hairy variety, of rather uncommon occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of the meadow mushroom, the A. villaticus of Dr. Badham (given in error by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley as a variety of the meadow mushroom, and since corrected by him). It is a splendid plant, but, I think, very rare. I have only seen it once.

There is also another large, sienna-red, rank-looking variety, I have often gathered in certain situations under trees, &c., that few would be tempted to eat; it is probably a luxuriant, overgrown, disagreeable thing, that would give one a stomach-ache, and in place of better species is not worth experimenting upon.

Many country-folks readily distinguish the meadow from the horse mushroom, and have a great antipathy to the latter, although they are always willing to put it into the jar as one of the ingredients of ketchup. Opinions appear to differ greatly regarding the excellence of this species. Mr. Penrose writes—“I think young, and especially button specimens of this, very indigestible; until they are well opened out, they are unfit for use.” Such, however, I must say, is not my experience of button specimens.

There is a strong odour attached both to this fungus and its spawn, the ground just below the surface being frequently white with the latter. If horsedung be kicked aside in a rich pasture frequented by graminivorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the young individuals may be seen springing up. The specimen figured is not fully expanded, but is represented in the condition best for the table.

I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with great apparent gusto, although the fungus was full of maggots.

(Agaricus [Amanita] strobiliformis.)5.

If colour is left out of the question, no finer species of Agaric than this one grows in the country. It attains a very large size in well-grown specimens, but is rare. I have but once found it, and then it was sprinkled pretty plentifully along the borders of a fir plantation in Hampshire, not far from Winchester. The solid compact flesh, fine ring, bulbous stem, and patched top, well mark this species. The persistent patches on the top are not very unlike the scales of a fir-cone, hence its specific name; the gills do not reach the stem.

Its undisputed esculent qualities are of a high order, and it is to be regretted that its comparative rarity must prevent its being so well known and appreciated as its merits deserve. The specimen figured is not fully expanded, at which time most fungi are fuller of flavour.

A very common species of Amanita (A. vaginatus), said to be esculent (and eaten by Mr. Penrose), I have not tried.

(Lactarius deliciosus.)502.

There are but few species of the Lactarius, or milk-bearing group, that can be recommended for culinary purposes. This species, however, and fig. 26 are exceptions, and there can be no fear of mistaking the orange-milk mushroom for any other species. It is at once known by the orange-coloured milk which it exudes on being bruised, cut, or broken; this milk soon becoming dull green. The plant is solid, almost corky, and the richly-coloured top is commonly, but not always, marked with deeper coloured zones, as in the figure. It always grows in fir plantations, and I have found it on the Kentish Town side of London, almost before the smoke of the city is left behind. It is somewhat local, although at times it grows in large numbers, but always amongst firs. Like several other excellent species, the taste is at times rather sharp when raw.

When cooked with taste and care, it is one of the greatest delicacies of the vegetable kingdom, its flesh being more crisp and solid than many species.

One or two milk-mushrooms, which had better be avoided, bear brimstone-coloured milk, or milk which changes to a brimstone or burnt sienna colour; they are figured on the Poisonous Sheet, figs. 20 and 28; but Lactarius deliciosus can never be mistaken for any other plant if the deep orange (or red) and ultimately green milk is observed. Figs. 20 and 28 are not peculiar to fir woods.

(Cortinarius [Inoloma] violaceus.)420.

This is one of the best-marked of all edible fungi, and at the same time one of the very best for esculent purposes. It cannot be called common, although I have often found it close to London. It appears to principally grow in open places in woods. When young, it looks like a bright purple silk ball in the grass, and when gathered the bulbous stem is almost as large as the top itself. There is always a cottony web, like cobweb (which represents the ring), stretching from the edge of the pileus to the stem, and this web soon takes its colour from the red spores, which are plentifully produced, colouring the gills and part of the stalk a red colour, very similar in tint to the rust of iron; when cut, the flesh is of a subdued lilac tint, and firm.

Broiled with a steak, this is a most exquisitely rich luxury, much resembling the meadow mushroom in flavour, but altogether firmer, and more meaty and substantial. I am always glad to find this species, and it is next to impossible to mistake it for any other.

(Coprinus comatus.)374.

This fungus should be gathered for the table when the gills are white or just changing to pink, and before they are black, in which latter state (as the plant is ultimately deliquescent), it is unfit for food. If I had my choice, I think there is no species I should prefer before this one; it is singularly rich, tender, and delicious. Those found growing amongst short grass, on lawns, or by roadsides, are best; there is one form of it which grows in dirty, sticky places, in brickfields, dustyards, &c., that I should not like to recommend. When gathered in a rich pasture, it is of snowy whiteness, the top being somewhat fleshy, cylindrical, and broken up into white clothy patches; there is a white, powdery, fragile ring round the hollow stem, which is soon broken, and falls away.

Coprinus comatus—the “Agaric of Civilization”—is common in all the London parks in October. A closely-allied species, found at the base of old stumps and palings, and on the ground (C. atramentarius), is sometimes eaten. I have not tried it, but Mr. Penrose and several friends have a word to say in its favour.

(Agaricus [Lepiota] procerus.)13.

Agaricus procerus everywhere enjoys a good reputation, and as it is far from uncommon, the lovers of fungi can generally make sure of this species for a treat. When or at what time it was ever sold at Covent Garden Market, I do not know; for although more than one book says it is there displayed for sale, I never saw, or could hear of it. It grows in pastures, and is known by its long bulbous spotted stem, by the ring that will slip up and down, by the very scaly top, and the gills far removed from the insertion of the stalk. When the stem is removed, a large hollow socket remains,—just the place to insert a large piece of butter in the broiling process, when, with pepper and salt, it forms a dish that if once tried must please the most fastidious. I think the plants gathered in the pastures are best. I have sometimes found most enormous specimens growing in fir plantations, but I do not think them equal for the table to the plants which abound in rich meadows. The flesh is a little inclined to change colour; and there is an allied species, A. rachodes, much more robust, but often smaller, that changes colour to a deep yellowish-brown when broken, and has a smooth stem, that cannot be so highly recommended, if it even be wholesome. I have generally found it growing on dark and shady hedge-banks, and know several persons who have eaten it and speak well of it.

(Agaricus [Clitopilus] prunulus.)225.

The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species from all others. It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey. Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name of A. orcellus, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus” and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species. There is also a vexatious confusion between this species and fig. 19, St. George’s Mushroom (A. gambosus). This latter is a spring plant, and is frequently and erroneously called A. prunulus. They have no characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.

Returning to the true Plum Mushroom (fig. 15), I have only to say that, however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared, it is a most delicious morsel. I have never seen it in very large quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in profusion.

(Helvella crispa.)1673.

This singular-looking plant is nearly allied to the true Morel, and closely resembles it in flavour. It is hardly possible to mistake it for any other species, unless it be the next, which has a black top, and is rarer (H. lacunosa), 1674, and also esculent. H. crispa generally grows on shady banks, or on the edges of pastures and lawns, and amongst dead leaves, under the shade of trees. I have only once seen it near London, and that was in the neighbourhood of Caen Wood, Hampstead; sometimes, however, I have found it in immense quantities (numbering hundreds of specimens) on rich sloping banks. The stem is full of wrinkles and holes, and the top lobed and deflexed in a very singular and irregular manner.

If stewed slowly and with care, this species will prove very pleasant eating, and will exude a delicious gravy. The flesh is firm and crisp, and greatly resembles the Morel. It may be easily dried for future use in a current of air, or in a dry place; in this state, specimens are at times kept threaded on strings, ready to impart their truly delicious flavour to stews and gravies. (See description of fig. 20.)

I once saw a batch of specimens which had suddenly sprung up close to some ants’ nests, and thousands of the ants were swarming over and examining the fungi, and running in and out of the holes in the stems in the most amusing manner.

(Agaricus [Pleurotus] ostreatus.)179.

I have always found this far from uncommon species growing on old elm trunks, although it is not at all particular as to its habitat, often appearing on laburnum, apple, ash, &c. It usually grows in large masses, one plant above another, forming a very handsome object on old tree-stems. The gills and spores are white, the former running down the stem, and the top dingy—sometimes nearly white; at others, full brown. An allied species, A. euosmus, with pale lilac spores, and a scent like that of Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), is “not esculent,” and is said to grow in the spring. I commonly find the former growing in spring, although it is said usually to grow late in the autumn, or winter.

Perhaps a taste for this species has to be acquired; but though it is without doubt edible, I have never thought well of it. The flesh possesses a certain amount of firmness, and produces an abundant and savoury juice; but I am inclined to place it as the species of least value for culinary purposes. It has, however, been highly recommended by some; and a dish of this species stewed before a very hot fire has proved as enjoyable and nourishing “as half a pound of fresh meat.” Tastes are allowed to differ; and perhaps the opinion of some of my readers may differ from mine if they try this species, which, from its peculiar appearance, there is little chance of mistaking for any other.

(Agaricus [Tricholoma] personatus.)65.

Although this plant at times appears in pastures near London, it is not very common. It is very nearly allied to and extremely like the next species (fig. 19), from which it is principally distinguished by its growing in the autumn, and having a lilac band round the upper part of the stem. This lilac stain, however, is not invariably present; and a species that is altogether (stem and top too) lilac, or full violet, should be avoided (A. nudus). The Purple Cobweb-Mushroom (fig. 12) is easily distinguished by its rust of iron gills. In Agaricus personatus they are white—sometimes dirty white; the solid ringless stem is rather rough; and the top is smooth, and exceedingly firm and fleshy; the plant grows late in the autumn, on downs, and in rich, short pastures.

Opinions vary a little regarding the value of this species for gastronomic purposes; but I think, if young plants are gathered, in dry weather, and carefully broiled or stewed, few fungi will prove more truly delicious. From my own experience, I have the highest opinion of it; but the plant readily absorbs moisture, and during wet weather is heavy and of little worth.

As these pages are passing through the press, my friend, Mr. Thomas Moore, of the Botanic Garden, Chelsea, informs me that this autumn (1874) he saw large quantities of A. personatus exposed for sale in the markets of Nottingham, under the name of “blue-bottoms,” the vendors stating the fungus to be “as good as mushrooms.”

(Agaricus [Tricholoma] gambosus.)62.

The St. George’s Mushroom is fit for any saint in the calendar. It comes up in the spring, near St. George’s Day, when few other species are to be found. It is in every part almost white, or with a slight inclination to ochre; but sometimes the colour is a little fuller. The stem and top are singularly firm, fleshy, and solid, and the latter, in hot weather is inclined to split. It grows in rings, on rich lawns and pastures, and has a strong, fragrant, enticing odour.

It is a little like A. crustuliniformis (fig. 24, Poisonous Sheet), which, however, differs in various ways, principally in discharging brown spores instead of white, as in A. gambosus. The poisonous plant has an odour like the flowers of laurel, and grows in woods in the autumn.

Few species are more substantial and delightful for the table. I (with many others) look upon it with unusual favour, as one of the rarest delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. Like the last, it is absorbent of water, and should be gathered in dry weather. I think it is local, and certainly uncommon near London.

It is sometimes erroneously referred to under the name of A. prunulus.

(Morchella esculenta.)1668.

I know a wood in Bedfordshire called “Morel Wood,” where, in the spring, this rare and delicious fungus abounds. It is generally far from common, and occurs, perhaps, in greater abundance in the south of England. It appears, however, to be pretty well known and in general request amongst housewives, north and south, for the truly exquisite flavour it imparts to gravies and made dishes; and being readily dried, it can be kept for immediate use at any season of the year. The figure shows exactly what the Morel is like; the honeycombed pitted top is hollow, and the almost smooth stem partly so. It yields a delicious ketchup; and the hollow top, well stuffed with minced veal, and dressed between slices of bacon, is a dish of rare and exquisite flavour.

This notice of the Morel would not be complete without reference to the “Giant Morel” (Morchella crassipes) found a few years ago in this country, for the first time, by my friend Miss Lott, of Barton Hall, South Devon. This species, which attains enormous dimensions, is not quite so crisp or rapidly dried as the last, but, as an object of food, is fully as exquisite for flavouring sauces, and other purposes.

(Fistulina hepatica.)716.

This singular fungus is not always common. It generally grows on the trunks of old oaks. I have seen it in immense quantities on the ancient oaks of Sherwood Forest, whilst at times oak districts appear to be singularly free from its presence. It externally resembles a very large tongue or a huge piece of liver lolling out from the tree, and when incised a red juice plentifully exudes. It is truly “a vegetable beefsteak,” for the taste resembles meat in a remarkable manner. A good way of preparing it is to cut it up in thin slices and broil it with a steak, and dress with butter, salt, and pepper. There is a slight but very perceptible acid flavour with it, which gives considerable zest and piquancy to a dish of the “vegetable beefsteak,” as it is called, rendering it a “treat for an epicure.”

It rarely grows on any tree but the oak, but I have seen it on the ash, beech, and other trees.

(Hydnum repandum.)718.

There is little fear of mistaking this for any other species, as the awl-shaped spines on the under surface are a characteristic feature of the small genus, Hydnum. All the species of any size enjoy a good character; Hydnum repandum being the only common plant of the genus.

It is sometimes most abundant in the few woody places remaining at the north of London, and may often be found on shady roadsides in the humid weather of autumn.

Its taste is slightly pungent when uncooked; but after being submitted to the culinary processes of the kitchen, it affords a charming addition to the table. Its flesh is very firm and delicious; yet, being somewhat dry (like fig. 11), the addition of some sauce or gravy lends an additional relish to the stew.

The colour of the fungus is exactly like that of a cracknel; the smooth top is frequently irregular, and the pure solid stem often out of the centre. The top sometimes partakes of a warmer, almost sienna, colouring.

(Hygrophorus virgineus.)470.

This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom. It is essentially waxy, and feels and looks precisely as if made of the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and the gills (singularly distant from each other) run far down the stem; it changes colour a little when getting old, at which time it is unfit for culinary purposes.

A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be obtained when other species are not to be had.

Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably H. pratensis and H. niveus; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has eaten, and speaks favourably of, H. psittacinus—a highly ornamental yellow species, with a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich pastures (and generally said to be very suspicious).

(Agaricus [Clitocybe] nebularis.)78.

Common (in certain places), but rare near London. This species appears late in the autumn and generally grows on dead leaves in moist places, principally on the borders of woods. The top is lead-colour or grey, at first clouded grey,—hence its name; the stem is stout, elastic, and striate, with the white gills running considerably down the ringless stem, in the manner shown in the drawing.

The gastronomic excellences of the species are well known. When gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when cooked, the firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable taste.

(Lycoperdon giganteum.)930.

This species of puff-ball is not always a “giant,” and may frequently be found no larger than an apple. It is somewhat local, and I think only attains gigantic proportions in certain situations. I have, for instance, seen specimens growing in rich pastures in Nottinghamshire, so much larger than the specimen figured that the latter would appear a perfect dwarf beside them. It may be found, in some of the meadows near Highgate and Hampstead, quite as big as our figure; but indeed there is little fear of a mistake, if attention is paid to the smooth skin,—like white kid leather.

Young specimens must be chosen for cooking, such as are firm and snow-white, inside and out; for when the fungus is getting ripe and yellowish, and dusty inside, or when it is saturated with rain and the interior is a mass of yellow decomposition, of course it must be rejected.

It is known by its large size, its pure white colour, and its smooth skin.

To cook this species satisfactorily and well, cut the specimens up into slices of half an inch in thickness, remove the skin or bark, dip the slices into yolk of egg, and fry in fresh butter. It will then eat with a delicate and delicious flavour; or served with jam or jelly it is an excellent substitute for pastry.

(Lactarius volemum.)508.

This species is recognized by its very rich coloration, firm flesh, mild taste, white milk (changing to a dull dark umber-colour where the plant is bruised or broken), white gills becoming warm yellow-buff, and the full sienna top; the stem is solid, and the plant grows in woods.

The taste of this plant, when fried, has aptly been compared to lamb’s kidney, and resembles in flavour the only other edible Lactarius—viz. L. deliciosus, fig. 11. It is a rare species in this country.

(Agaricus [Clitocybe] dealbatus.)80.

This pretty little fungus commonly grows in, and about the neighbourhood of, fir plantations, but will occasionally come up elsewhere. Its top is white, smooth, and exceedingly like ivory. It is shining, waved, fleshy, and inclined to be irregular; the gills are thin, white, and run down the stem.

When clean, young, and fresh specimens are broiled with butter, it is a delicacy of the very highest degree,—at once tender, juicy, and delightful. Its charming flavour is exceeded by very few other fungi.

Several allied species are very good, notably Agaricus odorus, which exhales a most delicious odour of melilot.

I used to eat all sorts of things for this species before I properly knew it, and never felt the worse for the mistakes I made. It would be useless to enumerate them all here, without figures and descriptions, but one was the common Agaricus subpulverulentus.

(Marasmius oreades.)553.

If possible, this species is better than the last, and no recommendation can be too strong for it. The exquisitely rich and delicious flavour of this plant when broiled with butter must be tasted to be understood. It is firmer than the meadow mushroom, and, whilst having its peculiar aroma, it possesses it in a concentrated form. Even Mr. Berkeley, who would be the last man in the world to subscribe to a doubtful species, says, “it is the very best of all our fungi.” It may be pickled, used for ketchup, or dried for future use.

Marasmius oreades grows in rings in short pastures, on downs, and by roadsides everywhere (but never in woods). It is somewhat tough, the solid stem particularly so, the gills wide apart, and cream-coloured.

This species has no downy hairs at the base of the stem. Certain other species of Marasmius, frequently found growing on dead leaves in woods, and possessing this hairy down, are to be avoided. There is a poisonous plant sometimes found in similar situations, and often with the Fairy-Ring Champignon (M. urens), fig. 30, Poisonous Sheet. I once tested its qualities (by accident). See description.

(Tuber Æstivum.)1916.

The truffle is a subterranean fungus, invariably found under trees, often just appearing above the surface of the ground, and occasionally exposed for sale in our markets, where it will realize at times as much as 5s. per pound. The truffle is esteemed by many as the most delicious object of food in the whole vegetable kingdom, and by others it is looked upon with aversion or positive disgust. The odour is very powerful, and is relished by some individuals, and very much disliked by others. It is looked upon as a great delicacy boiled, or simply roasted in hot ashes.

Besides the truffle sold in Covent Garden Market, there are many other species found in this country, of various forms and qualities. T. Æstivum varies much in size, is irregular in shape, black, rough, and warted.

I must confess that, at first, I regarded the truffle with loathing; but now I have learned to greatly esteem it. It makes a capital ingredient for gravies, stuffings, and meat pies.

It is frequently referred to under the name of T. cibarium.