Jewellery :: INDEX

INDEX

A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y, Z

?ah-?etep, 3, 5
À Becket, Thomas. See Thomas À Becket
Aberford (Yorks), 72
Abingdon brooch, 60
Acorn-shaped pendants, Phoenician, 10
Acorn-shaped pendants, worn by Henry VIII, 206
Acton, John, 302, 304
Acus, xli, xlii, 60, 127
Adalbert of Saxony, 137
Adams (potter), 315
Adriatic, 83
" jewellery, 246, 347
Ægean, 12
Ægides, 6
Aetites, 122
Aglets, 268-9
Agnus Dei, 72, 122
Agnolo, Luca, 185
Agrafes, 140
Aigrettes, Hungarian, 198
" jewelled, 230, 231
" " sockets for, 230
" 17 cent., 230, 231, 281, 290, 291, 303
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 316, 317
Aigulets, 268
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treasury, 118, 139
Albacete, 9
Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 194
" VI, Duke of Bavaria, 248
Albini, D. M., 309
Alciatus, A., 223
Aldegrever, H., 185, 193, 194, 250, 259
AlenÇon, Pierre d', 343, 357
Alexandria, 93
Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, 158
" II, Duke of Ferrara, 292
Alfred the Great, 68, 69, 71
" Jewel, 68, 69
Algeria, Celtic brooch in, 76
Algerian women, head-ornaments of, 9
Alhstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 71
Alicante, 9
Allori, Alessandro, 350
Altdorfer, A., 189
Altoetting (Bavaria), 88
Amadas, Robert, 208
Ambassadors, jewellery given to, Eng., 17 cent., 306
Amber in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
" in ancient Irish jewellery, 42
" in German peasant jewellery, 346
" in early Italian jewellery, 24
" in prehistoric jewellery, 39
" in Roman jewellery, 30
" in Romano-British jewellery, 45
Ambergris, 125 n.
Amboise, Cardinal d', 199
Amethystine quartz, beads of, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Amethysts, 19 cent., 328, 329
Amman, Jost, 270
Amourette, 146
AmphorÆ, 8, 10
Amphora-shaped ornaments, Greek, 16
Amsterdam, Charles I's jewellery sent over to, 305
Amulets, Egyptian, 2
" Etruscan, 25
" medl., 103, 122, 132
" in medl. rings, 151
" Roman, 29, 32
" Romano-British, 47
Ananizapta, 152
Androuet Ducerceau, J., 201, 219, 241, 246, 265, 269
Angell, John, 208
Angles, 56
Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 51, 56-74
Ankles, rings for, 6
Ann Boleyn, Q. of England, 212
Anne of Austria, wife of Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 195
" of Bohemia, Q. of England, 141
" of Denmark, Q. of England, 268, 301
Annunciation, on medl. morses, 139
" on Renaiss. pendants, 244-5
Anselm, 92
Anthony, Dericke, 220
Antioch, sack of, 33
Antonio di Girolamo, 175
Antwerp, corporation of goldsmiths, 155
" engravers of designs for jewellery, 196
" Hans of. See Hans.
" Museum, 227 n.
" port of, 16 cent., 167
Annulus vertuosus, 147
Aphrodite, 28
Arabella Stuart, 299
Arabs in Spain and Sicily, 84
Ardagh chalice, 66
Ark on Elizabethan jewellery, 255, 256
Armada jewels, 217, 255
Armagnacs, badge of, 110
Armento, 16
ArmillÆ, ancient British, 41
" Roman, 30
Armlet, Hunsdon, 218
Armlets, xliv
" ancient Irish, 42
" medl., 157-8
" Roman, 30
" Romano-British, 47
Arphe, Juan de, 202
Arrow heads, prehistoric, as charms, in Etruscan jewellery, 25
" " " medl. jewellery, 122
Art Nouveau, 337, 338
Arundel, Eleanor, Countess of, 113
Ashbee, C. R., 339
Ashmole, Elias, 238
Ashmolean Museum. See Oxford
Asia Minor, 8, 14
Assyria, 7, 8
Assyrian art, 12
Athelney, Isle of, 68
Athene, 16
Athens, National Museum, 11
Attavante, M., 175
Augsburg, goldsmiths, 192
" jewellery made at, 202, 203, 205
" in 16 cent., 180, 189, 198, 210
Augustine, St., 65, 66
Augustus, Emperor, cameo of, 103
" II, Elector of Saxony, 310, 311
AulmoniÈre, 165
Autun, Gallo-Roman enamelled jewellery found at, 46
Auvergne, peasant jewellery, 342-3
Babelon, E. C. F, 266
Bacchus, 24
Backwell, Edward, 305
Bacon, Sir F., 100
Bactria, 51
Baden, Margraves of, 250, 261
Badges, 116, 365
" for hats, medl., 107-12
" English, 16-17 cent., 257
" pendent, medl. 110
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
Bags, at girdles, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Bague, 258
Bagues À trois grains, 73
Bain, P., 282
Baldrick, 93, 164
Baldung, Hans. See Grien
Baldwin, K. of Jerusalem, 119
Baltic, amber from, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Balzac, H. de, 331
Bandeau, French, 19 cent., 329
" Italian, 15 cent., 107
Bannatyne Club, 220
Bapst, G., 335
Barbarian tribes, migrations of, 49
Barbaric jewellery of Europe, 49-55
Barbor jewel, 218, 254
" William, 254
Barcelona, goldsmiths of, 202, 204
Barclay, A., 236
Baroncelli, Pierantonio, Maria, wife of, 114, 286
Barnfield, R., 265
Barrows, or graves, Anglo-Saxon, 57
Bars of girdles, medl., 162 n.
Basalt, 5
Basil, xlv
Basil the Macedonian, Emperor, 34
Basle, Historical Museum, 192
Basse-taille enamel. See Enamel
Bast, 6
Batrachites, 151
Battersea enamel, 320
Bauer, Hermann, 339
Baumann, D., 309
Bavaria, Dukes of, 194, 248
Bavarian National Museum. See Munich
Baudrier, 164
Beaded work, 19 cent., 327
Beads, Anglo-Saxon, 58
" or balls of gold, on Anglo-Saxon rings, 73
" ancient British, 40
" " Irish, 42
" Egyptian, 4-6
" filigree, for perfumes, 265
" glass, Romano-British, 45
" jet, Romano-British, 47
" Phoenician, 10
" Roman, 29
" rosary, 124-5
Beatrice D'Este, Duchess of Milan, 172
Beams, of gypciÈres, 165
Beaumont and Fletcher (quoted), 265
Bede, The Venerable, 67
Bees, gold, jewelled, 53
Belgium, peasant jewellery, 345-6
Belisarius, 33
Bells, hung from medl. girdles, 164
" " Renaiss. pendants, 250
Belts, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 159-65
" " resemblence to fillets, 105
" military, medl., 163-4
Bentzen, J., 284
Berengaria, of Navarre, Q. of England, xliii, 128
Beresford-Hope cross, 36
Berghem, Louis de, 209, 277
Berkeley Castle, 73, 218, 253, 265, 266
" Elizabeth, Lady, dau. of Lord Hunsdon, 218
" family, 274
" heirlooms, 218
" Thomas, Lord, 116
Berlin, Crown Treasury, 251
" iron jewellery made in, 330
" Museums, 3, 9, 139
" " pictures in, 90, 106, 168, 261
Bernal, Ralph, 133
Berne, 210
" Museum, 64
Bernhard III, Margrave of Baden, 261
Bettystown, Co. Louth, 78
BetnÜsse, 125
Beuvray, Mont, near Autun, 46
Bezel, xlv
Bezoar stone, 122
Bibracte, 46 n.
Bijouterie, 277
"Billy and Charley," 360
Bilston enamel, 320
BindesbÖll, T., 339
Birckenhultz, P., 231, 234, 281
Birds on Teutonic jewellery, 57, 58
" " Renaiss. pendants, 249
Birmingham, steelwork, 315, 39
Bucharest, Museum of Antiquities, 52
Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of,
Buonaparte, Caroline, Q. of Naples, 329
Burgh, Hebert de, 151
Burgkmair, H., 189
Burgundian Court, luxury of, 88-90
Burgundians (Gothic tribe), 50
Burgundy, Dukes of, 88-9, 114, 143
Bussy d'Amboise, 123 n.
"Butterflies," 316
Buttons, jet, Romano-British, 47
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
" Renaiss., 267-8
" steel, 315
" 18 cent., 319, 320
Byron, Lord, 331
Byzantine, cloisonnÉ enamel, 66
" influence on medl. jewellery, 83-5, 157
" jewellery, 33-8
Byzantium, 33
C., A., 284
Cabalistic inscriptions on medl. rings, 152
Cabochon stones, 88, 96, 97
Cadboll brooches, 77
CÆre, 25
Caillard, J., 282
Caillou d' AlenÇon, 343
" du Rhin, 357
Cairngorms, 133
Cairo, Museum, 3, 5
Callot, J., 282
Cambridge, Fitzwilliam Museum, 225
" King's College, 115
Camden, W., 94
Cameos, antique, in medl. jewellery, 138
" in bracelets, Renaiss., 264, 266
" in bracelets, 18 cent., 320
" Elizabethan, 217-18
" medl. use of antique, 101-4
" in mourning jewellery, 369
" Renaiss., 226
" " enseignes, 227-8
" " pendants, 245-6
" Roman, 30
" 19 cent., 326-31
Campbells of Glenlyon, 132
Canning, Lord, 249
Canosa, 70
Canterbury Cathedral, 108 n., 109
" " Chapel of St. Thomas À Becket, 140
Canterbury Tales, 161, etc.
Cappello, Bianca, 233, 350
Caracts, 132
Caract rings, 152
Caradosso, 168, 227
Caravel, or carvel, 246
Carberry Hill, 221
Carcan, 317
Carcanets, 114
" Renaiss., 239
Carlyle, T., 318
Carmichael, Sir T. D. Gibson, 224
Caroto, G., 172
Carrand Collection. See Florence, Museo Nazionale
Carteron, S., 205
Cassel Gallery, 296
Cassolette, 275 n.
Castellani, 22, 346, 359
" Alessandro, 333, 334
" Augusto, 333, 334
" Fortunato Pio, 333, 334
" brooch, 70
Cast-iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330-1
Catherine Parr, Q. of England, 252
Caucasus, 50
Cavalcant, John, 208
Ceinture, 105, 159
" ferrÉe, 161
Ceinturier, 270
Cellini, B., 21, 22, 169, 171, 179, 183-6, 192, 196, 197, 199, 201,
202, 208, 222, 227, 228, 241, 273, 278, 351
Celtic brooch, 74, 75-9, 131
" jewellery, 11, 39
" Period (late), 39, 43
Celts, 40
Cercles, 93, 105
"Cerro de los Santos," 9
Cervetri, 25
Cesarini, Gabriele, 228
Chains, ancient Irish, 43
" Egyptian, 5
" Phoenician, 9
" neck, 19 cent., 331
Chains, worn round the neck. See also Necklaces and Neck-chains
Chalke, Agnes, 106
Chamberlain, John, 299
Chamillart, Mdme de, 314, 320
Chansons, 152
Chantilly, 168, 185
Chape of girdle, xlvi, 160, 271
Chapeau montabyn (montauban), 224, 231
Chapelet, 125
Chapeletz, 93, 105
Chaperon, 156, 229
Chaplets, medl., 105
Chardin, Sir John, 278, 305
Charity, figure of, on Renaiss. pendants, 244
Charlemagne, 55, 65, 83, 84, 118
Charles I, K. of England, 210, 219, 230, 288, 300, 304, 305, 354
" I, K. of England, earrings of, 235, 354
" I, K. of England, memorial jewellery of, 367
" II, K. of England, 292, 305
" V, K. of France, 88, 199
" " " cameo of, 103, 130
" VIII, K. of France, 199
" IX " " 199, 200
" the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 107, 209, 231
" the Great, Emperor of the West. See Charlemagne
Charlotte, Q. of England, 313, 317
Charms, 99-104, 111-120
Chartres, Treasury of, 103
ChÂteaubriand, Countess of, 181
Chatelaines, xlvii
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 161
" pinchbeck, 316
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312, 313, 322, 323
Chaton, xlv
Chaucer, 93, 94, 109, 129, 130 n., 164
Chelsea, ring found at, 73
Chepstow, Monmouthshire, 46
ChÉron, 314
Chiflet, J. J., 53
Child, Sir Francis, 305, 306
Child's Bank, 306
Childeric I, K. of the Franks, 51, 52, 53
" " ring of, 63
Chlotaire II, K. of the Franks, 59
Christian V, K. of Denmark, 238
Christianity, introduction of, change in jewellery owing to, 65, 66
" introduction of into Ireland, 75
Christie's Auction Rooms, 247, 256
Christina, Q. of Sweden, 284
Christopher, St., 142
Christus, Petrus, 155, 222, 263
Ciampoli, Carlo, 309, 317
Cingulum, 163
Circlets, xxxix
" medl., 106
Clanricarde, Marquess of, 249
Clarendon brooch, 78
Clasps, xl
" of girdle, xlv, xlvii
" " medl., 160, 163
" of mantle, medl., 140, 141
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312
Clifford, Lord, 354
Cloth of Gold, Field of, 207, 237
CloisonnÉ enamel. < href="@public@vhost@g@html@files@47823@47823-h@47823-h-16.htm.html#page_369" class="pginternal">369
Dietrich, 339
Dinanderie, 112 n.
Dinglinger, George Friedrich, 310
" Johann Melchior, 310
" " " (junior), 311
Dinteville, Jean de, 365
Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 20
Dionysos, 24
Diptychs, pendent, medl., 119-20
Directory, 325-6
Discs of gold. See Plates of gold
Dog (Talbot), on Renaiss. pendants, 249
"Dombild," 145
Dorchester House. See London
Douce, Francis, 53, 264
Douglas, Lady Margaret, 217
Douffet, Gerard, 296
Dove, symbol of Holy Ghost, 249
" in peasant jewellery, 343
Dowgate Hill brooch, 69
Dragon, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Drake, Sir Francis, 253, 266, 354
" Sir F. Fuller-Eliott, 218, 230 n., 253
" jewels, 218, 230 n., 353
Drawings for jewellery by Barcelona goldsmiths, 202
Drawings for jewellery by Sir F. Child, 306
" " by DÜrer, 190
" " by Holbein, 210-213

" " by Lulls, 302
" " by Mielich, 195
" " by the Santini family, 308
Drury Fortnum. See Fortnum
Dresden, Picture Gallery, 261
" GrÜne GewÖlbe, 251, 311
Dress, ornaments sewn on, ancient Irish, 43
" " " Renaiss., 268
Dress-fasteners, prehistoric, xliii
" " ancient British, 41
Dressche, Reinecke van, 139
Du Barry, Madame, 317
Du Bellay, G., 207
Dublin, Irish National Museum, 42, 44, 77, 78
" National Gallery of Ireland, 250
" Royal Irish Academy, 42, 78
" Trinity College, 78
Dubois, Paul, 339
Ducerceau. See Androuet Ducerceau
Duflos, August, 312, 317
Du Fresnoy, C. A., 353
Dunstan, St., 67
DÜrer, A., 185, 187, 190, 191, 250
Du Suau de la Croix, Comte, 338
Duvet, Jean, 200
"Eagle Fibula," 135
Eagle stones, 122
Eanred, 72
Earle, J., 69
Ear-picks, Renaiss., 250-1
Earrings, xxxix, xl
" Anglo Saxon, 58
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 35, 37
" " in Middle Ages, 112
" Egyptian, 4
" English, 16-17 cent., 234-5
" Etruscan, 23
" Frankish, 58
" Greek, 15, 16
" medl., 112, 113
" " English, 92
" worn by men, 234-5, 332
" Merovingian, 58
" Phoenician, 9
" Renaiss., 233-5
" Roman, 28-9
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 309, 317
" 19 " 328
East Anglia, 60
Edict of Nantes, 305
Edinburgh, High Street, 133
" St. Giles' Church, 133
" National Museum of Antiquities, 77, 132, 150, 165
Edmer, 92
Edward the Confessor, K. of England, 92, 102, 118
" I, K. of England, 67, 92
" II " 93, 162
" III " 93, 121, 161, 162
" IV " 115, 116
" VI " 218, 219
" " " Prayer Book of, 274
" VII " 217, 224
Effigies, sepulchral, jewellery on, 82
Eglentine, Prioress, jewel worn by, 129
Egyptian jewellery, 1-7, 49
ElchÉ, "Lady of," 9, 10
Electrum, primitive Italy, 24
Elenchi, 28
Eligius, St. See Eloy
Elizabeth, Q. of Bohemia, 301
" " England, 213-20, 232, 234, 237, 239, 251-256,
265, 267, 269, 273, 301
" Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino, 172
Eloy, or Eloi, St., 67, 155
Emeralds, Spanish, 205
Empire jewellery, 326
Enamel, 49
" Battersea, 320
" basse-taille, 87, 97, 138
" Bilston, 320
" Byzantine, 35
" Celtic, 41
" champlevÉ, English, 16 cent., 211
" " medl., 85, 138
" " Romano-British, 45
" " on rings, 17 cent., 295
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
" " 16-17 cent., 283 etc.
" " 17 cent., 292
" cloisonnÉ, 70, 136, 283
" " Anglo-Saxon, 66, 68
" " Byzantine, 35, 36
" " medl., 84
" " Tara brooch, 66, 78
" Egyptian, 3
" Émail en blanc, 87
" Émail en rÉsille sur verre, 273, 293, 296
" Émail en ronde bosse, 87, 225
" English 16 cent., 216
" " 18 " 313
" "filigree enamel," (Draht-Email), 198, 347
" French, 18 cent., 311, 312
" Gallo-Roman, 46
" "gold wire," 224
" Greek, 13, 15, 17
" Hispano-Moresque, 205
" Irish, 66, 78
" Limoges, medl., 86
" " Renaiss. for enseignes, 229
" "Louis Treize," 286, 289, 293
" medl., 84-88
" opaque, French, 16 cent., 199, 200
" painted, 346, 347
" " on peasant jewellery, 344, 347
" " 17 cent., 285, 292, 293, 295
" Renaiss., 180
" Romano-British, 45
" Toutin firing an, 285, 289
" transluscent, 17 cent., 283
" " 18 " 312
" " See Basse-taille
" white, Émail en blanc, 87
" 17 cent., general, 283, 298
" " on watches, 297
" 18 cent., 312
" 19 cent., revival of, 337
England, medl. jewellery, 91-98
" 16 cent. jewellery, 206-221
" 17 " " 299-306
" 18 " " 310
Engraved designs for jewellery, English, 18 cent., 310, 312
Engraved designs for jewellery, French, 16 cent., 200, 201
Engraved designs for jewellery, Flemish, 16 cent., 196, 197
Engraved designs for jewellery, German, 16 cent., 186-7, 191-4
Engraved designs for jewellery, 17 cent., 280-9, 291-8
Engraved designs for jewellery, 18 cent., 308-10, 312, 320
Engraved gems, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " medl. use of, 101-4
" " in rings, Romano-British, 47
" " 16 cent., 227, 245
" " 19 cent., 326, 327
Enkomi, Cyprus, 12
Enseignes, 156, 169
" medl., 107-111, 146
" Renaiss., 222-230, 267
" with sku lls, 364, 365
"Equipage," 323
Erasmus, D., 109
Eros, 15, 16
Escarcelle, 165
"Esclavo," 204
Escoffion, 107, 156
Esguillettes, 269
Espreuves, 123
Essen, Treasury of, 143
" medl. brooches at, 143-145
Essence d'orient, 358
Estampes, Duchess of, 181
Este, Beatrice d', Duchess of Milan. See Beatrice
" Isabella d', Marchioness of Mantua. See Isabella
Estrennes, 153, 213
Ethelbert, K. of Kent, 65
Ethelswith, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethelwulf, K. of Wessex, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethred, 72
Eton College, 115
Etruscan goldsmiths, 8
" jewellery, 20-26, 333
Étuis, Eng., 18 cent., 309, 310, 323
" pinchbeck, 316
" Renaiss., 272
Eudel, P., 360, 362
Euphues, 273
Eustachio, Fra, 175
Evans, A. J., 43
" Sir J., 47, 62, 296
Evelyn, John, 298, 299, 367
Evil Eye, 164, 250
"Exeter Book," 57
Exmewe, Thomas, 208
Ex voto, 136
Eyck, van, 106
" John van, 90, 155
Eyelets, Renaiss., 268
Eymaker, 310
FaÇon d'Angleterre, 162
Fahrner, T., 339
Faience, Egyptian, 2, 7
Falize, Lucien, 335
Falkland, Viscount, 295
Fane, Sir S. Ponsonby, 322
Fans, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272
Fashion, influence on jewellery, 28, 80, 178, 49, 53
" in mourning jewellery, 370
" in Swiss peasant jewellery, 346
Garter, Order of, 254
" " pendent "George" of, 302
Gaudees (gauds), 124, 125
Gaskin, Arthur, 339
Gaul, 50
" invasion of by Teutonic races, 56
Gaveston, Piers, 67, 93
Geiss, 330
Gems, engraved, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " in enseignes, 16 cent., 227
" " in girdles, 271
" " in pendants, 16 cent., 245
" " in pendants, 17 cent., 291, 292
" " 19 cent., 326-31
" sewn on dress, Byzantine, 34
" See also Engraved gems
George, St., enseigne of, 224, 225
"George," of the Order of Garter, 302
George III, K. of England, 313
Genista, 110
GÉrard, F., Baron, 329
Gerini, Casa, 350
Germanic tribes, 50
Germany, peasant jewellery, 346
" 16 cent., jewellery, 187-96
" 17 cent., jewellery, 276
Gheeraerts, Marc, 352
Ghemert, H., van, 284
Ghent, 89
" altar piece by the Van Eycks, at, 106
Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 168, 210
Ghirlandaio, Domenico del,

169, 170, 210, 263
" Ridolfo del, 170
Ghirlande, 169
Gibbons, Grinling, 287
Gibbs Bequest. See London, British Museum
Gigates, 47
Giovio, Paolo, 260
GipciÈre, 165
" beams, 165
Giraldus Cambrensis, 109
Girandole, 317, 318
Girdle, medl., in picture, 156
" -buckle, xlv, xlvi, 159, 160
" " design by Aldegrever, 194
" " " de Bry, 196
" " " DÜrer, 190
" -buckles, 18 cent., 322
" -hangers, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Girdlers' Company of London. See London
Girdles, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" Greek, 18
" medl., 159-65
" " England, 93, 94
" Renaiss., 270-2
" 17 cent., 296-7
" 19 cent., 329
Giuliano, Carlo, 22, 334, 359
Giustinian, S., 206
Glass, armlets, Romano-British, 47
" beads, Phoenician, 10
" " Roman, 29
" " Romano-British, 45
" diamond rings for writing on, 260
" Egyptian, 3, 6
" millefiori, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" millefiori, in Romano-British jewellery, 46
" painted, in jewellery, "verre ÉglomisÉ," 203-4
" paste, 1, 49, 52
Glastonbury, 67
Glenlyon brooch, 111, 132
Glockendon missal, 175
Glomy, 203
GlossopetrÆ, 122, 123, 156
Gloves, rings worn over, 149, 259
" slashing of, 259, 265
GmÜnd, 339
Gnadenmedaillen, 248
Gnauth, 339
Gnostics, 101
Godberta, St., 155, 263
Godstow Priory ring, 150
Golconda, 278, 351
Gold, coloured, 311, 328
" imitation, 358, 359
Golden Fleece, 14
" " collar of, 90
" Hind, 253
"Goldshine," 316
Goldsmiths of Paris, medl., 134
" Company of London. See London
" workshops, interiors of, 98, 155, 156, 158, 176, 201
Gondola, pendent jewel, in form of, 197, 247
Gonzaga, Elizabeth, Duchess of Urbino. See Elizabeth
Gorget, from Petrossa, 52
Gorgets, ancient Irish, 42
GÖss, 339
Gothic ornament, appearance of, 86
" nations, 49, 50
" revival, 19 cent., 331
" style, 19 cent., 332
GrÆco-Phoenician jewellery, 8
Graff, C., 339
Grains de chapelet, 125
Granulated gold, 327, 333
Granulation, Byzantine, 35
" Etruscan, 21, 24
" Greek, 12, 13
" Phoenician, 8
Granson, battle of, 210
Greek jewellery, 8, 11-19
" Islands, peasant jewellery, 246, 346
Green, J. R. (quoted), 66
Gregory XVI, Pope, 22
Gresham, Sir T., 237
Grey, Lady Jane, 254
Gribelin, Simon, 310
Grien, Hans Baldung, 189, 261
Grimani Breviary, 175
Grondoni, G. B., 309, 310
Guarrazar, 50, 53
Guay, J., 320
Guien, J., 310, 317
Guilds, goldsmiths', 134
" " rules against forgery, 356, 358, 359
GuillochÉ gold, 312
Gurschner, G., 339
GypciÈre, 94
Habsburg, family, 294
Hadaway, Mrs., 339
Hailler, D., 284
Hair, jewellery of, 368-70
" " 19 cent., 331
" ornaments for the, medl., 114
" " " Renaiss., 223
" " " 17 cent., 291
" " " 18 " 316
Hair-pins, xl, xli
" Anglo-Saxon, 57
" Etruscan, 23
" German peasant, 346
" Greek, 17
" Renaiss., 232-3
" Roman, 28
" Romano-British, 45
" 18 cent., 316
" 19 " 328
Hall, Bishop, 259
" Edward, 207, 211, 224
Hals, Agnes, 366
" Frans, 296, 362
Hamilton brooch, 70
" Palace collection, 303
Hammer, 339
Hampton Court Gallery, 245
Hanau, 339
Hannibal, 32
Hans of Antwerp, 208, 213
Harlay, family, 266
Haroun al-Raschid, 84, 118
Harrogate diamonds, 357
Harvey, Gabriel, 261
Hastings, Lord, 46
Hat-badges. See Enseignes
" bands, jewelled, 224, 230
" ornaments, medl., 109
Hats, jewelled, medl., 107
" jewels on, English, 17 cent., 300, 301
" rings worn on, 261
Hauer, J. P., 287
Hauptmann, Franz, 339
Hays, Cornelius, 208
Head-appendages, Greek, 16
" dresses, Roman, 28
" ornaments, xxxix
" " Dutch, 344
" " ancient Irish, 42
" " Italian, 15 cent., 171, 172
" " medl., 105-12
" " Renaiss., 232
" " 18 cent., 316
" " 19 " 328
Hearts, peasant jewels in form of, 342-5
Hecke, van den. See Van den Hecke
Heel, Johann, 309
Heeley, 319
Heem, Jan de. See De Heem
Hefner-Alteneck, J. H. von, 195
Hendrickje Stoffels, 191
Henin, 107
Henlein, Peter, 274
Henrietta Maria, Q. of England, earrings of, 354
Henry I, K. of England, 92
" II " 141
" III " 92, 141, 151
" IV " 95, 115, 116, 140, 142, 162, 164
" V " 95, 110
" VI " 115
" VII " 216, 219
" VIII " 199, 206-13, 219, 224, 225, 226, 237, 238,
250, 252, 258, 263, 265, 267, 268, 269
" II, K. of France, 200, 365
" III " 200, 234
" IV " 314, 320
" K. of Castile, 109
" Prince of Wales, son of James I, 302-3
Hentzner, Paul, 214
Hera, 19
Herbals, precious stones in, 100 n.
Heraclius, Emperor, 59
Herbst, J. B., 310
Herculaneum, 29
" discovery of, 311
Herculean knot, rings shaped like, 32
Heriot, George, 268, 273, 300, 301, 304
" James, 210, 304
Heriot's Hospital, 301
Hermitage Museum. See St. Petersburg
Herodotus, 363
Herrick, Nicolas, 220
" Robert, 220, 302
" Sir William, 220, 301, 302
Heyl, Baron von, 136
Highland brooches, 131-3
Hilary, St., 104
" " jewel of, 103, 136
Hilliard, Nicholas, 219, 253, 255
Hipkins, W. and Co., 315
Hirzel, H. R. C., 338
Hispano-Moresque jewellery, 205
Hissarlik, 9
Holbein, Hans, the younger, 190, 210-13, 224, 243, 252,
273, 351, 352, 363, 365
Holford, Major, 288
Holinshed, R., 207, 235
Holland, peasant jewellery, 344-5
Hollar, W., 190, 275
Holtzendorff treasure, 267
" family, 238
Holy Land, jewellery brought back from, 84, 208, 209
Latten, 161
La Quewellerie, G. de, 284, 295
Lannoy, Baldwin de, 90
" Raoul de, 116
Lapis-lazuli, 2, 136
Lark Hill, near Worcester, 154
Latium, 24
Laton, 161
Lauingen, 230, 232
Laverstoke, 72
Law, Thomas and Co., 315
"Lazos," 204, 294
Lead, medl. jewels of, 108-10, 131, 161
" models for jewellery, 192-3
Leblanc, 316
Le Blon, M., 284, 304
"Leda and the Swan," by Cellini, 185, 228
Ledyard, Adam, 124
Lefebure, F., 282, 291
LefÈvre, R., 329
LÉgarÉ, GÉdÉon, 282, 287
" Gilles, 279, 282, 287-9, 291, 293, 294, 296, 298, 366
Leicester, Robert Dudley, Earl of, 239,

274
Leland, J., 207
Lely, Sir P., 353
Leman, Baptist, 208
Le Mans, xliii, 128
Lemersier, B., 282
Lempereur, 312, 318
Lennox, Henry Stuart, Earl of, 217
" jewel, 217, 257
Lenton, F., 235, 357
Leo III, Emperor, 34
Leonardus, C., 100, 101
Leopold, J. F., 309
Letelen, Albert von, 139
Letters, jewels in form of, 211
" pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248
Leven and Melville, Earl of, 221, 353
Leyden, John of, 250
Liberale di Giacomo da Verona, 175
Liberation, German War of, 330
Liberty, A. Lazenby, 339
Lichtwark, A., 193
Limoges enamel, medl., 86
" enamelled enseignes made at, 229
Limavady treasure, 43
Lion's head on Egyptian jewellery, 5
" Phoenician jewellery, 9
Lions on archaic Greek jewellery, 12
Lipona, Countess, 16
Lippmann, F., 190
Lisbon, Museum of Fine Arts, 347
Linas, C. de, 52 n.
"Little masters" (Kleinmeister), 191-6
Liverpool, Mayer collection, 60
Lively, 110, 116-7
Livre de Taille d'Épargne, 309
Llewellyn, 152
Llys-fÆn, Carnarvonshire, 71
Loch Buy brooch, 133
Lochner, Stephan, 145
Lockets, memorial, Eng., 17-18 cent., 368
" 17 cent., 293
Lombard Street, 115
Lombards (Gothic tribe), 50
Lombardy, peasant jewellery, 346
London, British Museum, 3, 4, 8-10, 12, 17, 23-8, 34, 37, 44, 46, 51,
60, 63, 69, 72, 74, 76, 108, 119, 122, 129, 132,
133, 138, 190, 211, 273, 297
" British Museum, Franks Bequest, 37, 110, 145, 148, 246, 264, 368
" British Museum, Gibbs Bequest, 57, 62, 63
" British Museum, Waddesdon Bequest, 125, 184, 226, 231,
248, 272, 303, 366
" British Museum, Sloane collection, 218, 255
" British Museum, Gold Ornament Room, 154, 292
" British Museum, Carlisle collection, 246
" British Museum, Room of Greek and Roman Life, 23
" Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, 361 n.
" Dorchester House, 225, 288
" Girdlers' Company, 161, 272
" Goldsmiths' Company, 131, 213
" Guildhall Museum, 108, 165
" National Gallery, 140, 171, 174, 238, 259, 264, 365
" National Portrait Gallery, 141 n., 212, 222, 235, 254
" Royal Academy, 312, 313
" St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, 115
" St. Paul's Cathedral, 115, 138
" South Kensington Museum Jewellery Exhibition, 1872, 241
" South Kensington Museum. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum
" Temple Church, 128
" Tower, 300
" Victoria and Albert Museum, 31, 36, 51, 72, 73, 120, 122, 129,
130, 138, 139, 163, 203, 218, 226,
231, 246, 248, 249, 254, 257, 266,
272, 273, 294, 296, 321, 334, 347,
356, 365, 369
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Library, 308, 344
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Dyce collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Jones collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Waterton collection, 149, 264
" Wallace collection, 226, 272, 296, 297
Londesborough collection, 129, 264
Loops (clasps), medl., 140
" Renaiss., 268
Lord Mayor of London, collar of, 117
Loreto, Santa Casa, 91
Lorn, brooch of, 133
Lothair II, K. of the Franks, 139
Lotto, Lorenzo, 263
Lotus flower, 4
Louis IX, St., K. of France, 119
" XI, K. of France, 109, 110, 116
" XII " 199
" XIII " 279, 286, 292
" XIV " 266, 279, 282, 293
" XV " 311, 320
" XVI " 311, 323
Louise Augusta, of Schleswig-Holstein, Princess, 339
Luckenbooth brooches, 133-4, 165
Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, 168, 172
Ludwig I, K. of Bavaria, 16
Lulls, Arnold, 231, 302, 304
LunulÆ, 42
Luthmer, F., xxxiv, 82, 135, 197, 240, 339, 352
Lyly, J., 217, 273
Lyons, 277
Lyte jewel, 257, 293, 303, 304, 354
" Sir H. Maxwell, 304
" Thomas, 303, 304, 354
Mabell, 269
Mabuse, 261, 351
Macdougals of Lorn, 133
Macleans of Loch Buy, 133
Macneals of Firfergus, 133
Macquoid, Mrs. Percy, 120
Madrid, Royal Armoury, 53
" Museum of Antiquities, 9
MÆnad, 15
Magi. See Kings of the East
Magna GrÆcia, 14, 17, 18
Magnussen, E., 339
Mainz, 135-7
Mainz Cathedral, 137
" " Treasury, 11
" period, 21, 22
Mytens, D., 352
Nail, Holy, 204
Nancy, battle of, 107
Nantes, Edict of, 305
Napoleon I, Emperor, 118, 325, 329, 332
" III " 118
Narwhal, 123
Nassaro, Matteo del, 226, 227
National Gallery, London. See London, National Gallery
"Navette" pendants, 246
Neckam, A., 92
Newman, Mrs., 339
Neck-chains, xl
" medl., 113-17
" Renaiss., 236-41
Necklaces, xl, xliv
" Anglo-Saxon, 58, 59, 74
" ancient British, 40
" Egyptian, 4
" Etruscan, 24
" Greek, 17
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" Italian, 15 cent., 172-3
" medl., 113-17, 121
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 236-42, 266, 285
" " perfumes worn in, 265
" rings worn on, 152, 261
" Roman, 29
" Romano-British, 45
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 313, 317, 318
" 19 " 328-31
Necklets, 113-17
" Renaiss., 239-40
Neck-ornaments, ancient Irish, 42
Nef, 246
" jewel, 252
Nene, 72
Neolithic Age, 47
Nephthys, 5
Neuburg, Amalia Hedwig of, 232
" Counts Palatine of, 232
" Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count of, 231
" Otto Henry, Count Palatine of, 230
Newcastle, William Cavendish, Duke of, 263
New College jewels, 96-8. See also Oxford
New Year's gifts, 153,

213, 215, 220, 265, 302
Niello, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" Byzantine, 36
" Italian, 15 cent., 163, 168, 173
" on medl. brooch, 130
" on Tara brooch, 78
"Niello" designs, engraved, 284, 295
Nolin, P., 285
Norfolk, Duke of, 221
" " badge of, 110
Norman Conquest, 65
Normandy, peasant jewellery, 342, 343
Norsemen, ravages of England, 68
Northumbria, 60
Norway, peasant jewellery, 345
Nose-ornaments, ancient British, 40
Nouches, 70, 93, 111, 121, 141, 142, 145, 223
Nowche or nuche, 141, 223
Nummi bracteati, Anglo-Saxon, 59
"Nuremberg eggs," 275
Nuremberg, 194
" jewellery made at, 202
" Germanic Museum, 232, 238, 272, 349
" St. Lawrence's Church, 120
" Town Library, 175
" 16 cent., 188, 189
Nutwell Court, 253
Odobesco, A., 52 n.
Olbia, forged jewels said to come from, 360
Olbrich, J. M., 338
Oldano, 275 n.
Oliver, I., 303
" P., 293
Olonne, Countess d', 288
Oppenheim, Baron A., 155
Opus interrasile, Byzantine, 34, 35
" Roman, 30
Orleans, Duke and Duchess of (1408), 162
Orles, 106
Ornament engravings. See Engraved designs for jewellery
Orpheus, 100
Osma, J. G. de, 204
Ossian, 331
Otho II, Emperor, 34
Ouch or owche, 141, 223. See also Nouches
Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 29, 60, 68, 73, 238, 298
" Ashmolean Fortnum collection, 264
" Bodleian Library, 63, 264
" New College, 123, 142, 149
" University Galleries, 293
Oxus treasure, 51
Paillons, 180, 260
Palestine, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86
Palissy, Bernard, 229
Palmer, Col. N., 68
" Thomas, 68
Panier, 319
Pantikapaion, 14
Paphos, 17
Paris, BibliothÈque Nationale, Cabinet des MÉdailles et Antiques,
30, 52, 53, 103, 185, 200, 225,
228, 245, 266, 292, 320, 330
" Dutuit collection, 139
" goldsmiths of, medl., 134
" Louvre, 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 172, 272, 291, 297, 329
" " Campana collection, 23, 24
" " Davillier Bequest, 251
" " Galerie d'Apollon, 137, 139, 154, 249
" " Adolphe Rothschild Bequest, 139, 240, 245
" " Salle des Bijoux Antiques, 23
" " Sauvageot collection, 154
" MusÉe Cluny, 53, 108, 139, 250, 251
" Notre-Dame, 329
" Quai des OrfÉvres, 314
Parmigianino (Mazzuola), 233
Parrot, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Parthey, G. F. C., 190-91
Partridge, Affabel, 220
" Mr. and Mrs., 339
Parure, 18 cent., 308
Pastes, 355-7
" imitating garnets, in Barbaric jewellery, 49-54
Paste jewellery, 18 cent., 314
" 19 " 328
Paternosterers, 124
Paton, J., 99
Patrick, St., 75
Pattern-books for jewellers, 17 cent., 280, 304
Pattern-books for jewellers, English, 18 cent., 310
Paul III, Pope, 199
"Paul's windows," 87
Peacocks, 35, 37
"Pea pod" ornament, 281, 289, 292, 293
Pearls, 314
" baroque, in Renaiss. pendants, 244
" " " toothpicks, 251
" in Byzantine jewellery, 33
" earrings, 234, 235, 291
" Q. Elizabeth's, 215
" false or mock, 314, 315, 357, 358
" pendent cluster, on jewels, 253 347
" pendent from Renaiss. jewels, 243
" perles À potences, 174
" ropes of, in the hair, 232, 316
" " as necklaces, 113, 239, 318
" "Roman," 358
" in Roman jewellery, 28
" Scottish, 121, 133, 356
" setting of, 15 cent., 174
" "Venetian," 358
" 19 cent., 328
Peasant jewellery, 341-7
" Dutch, 344-5
" Flemish, 345
" French, 342-4
" German, 346
" Hungarian, 197-8, 347
" Italian, 346
" Norwegian and Swedish, 345-6
" Portuguese, 347
" Spanish, 205, 347
Pectoralia, 138
Pectorals, Egyptian, 5
" medl., 135-46
Pembroke, Earl of, 116
Penannular brooch, xlii, xliii, 74
Pendants, xl
" Anglo-Saxon, 58
" Egyptian, 5
" Etruscan, 24
" Flemish, 16 cent., 196
" girdle, medl., 159-60
" " Renaiss., 272, 275
" Italian, 15 cent., 169, 173
" medl., 118-26, 156
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 242-57
" " English, 212, 251-7
" " forgery of, 361
" " worn on hats, 223
" Roman, 29, 30
" 17 cent., 281, 291-4
" 18 " 309
Pendeloques, 291, 318
Pendulum, 93
Penicuik jewel, 221
Penruddock jewel, 252, 353
" Sir George, 353
Pent-À-col (pentacols), 113, 121, 242
Pepys, S., 367
Peres de eagle, 122
Perfumes in bracelets, 265
" in earrings, 234
" in necklaces, 265
" in pomanders, medl. 125-6
" " Renaiss., 275
Persia, 33, 34, 50
Persian origin of inlaid jewellery, 52
Peru, emeralds from, 205
Peruzzi, Vincenzo, 279
Petitot, J., 288, 293, 304
Petrossa, treasure of, 50, 52
Peutin, John, 90
Pewter, jewels of, 111, 131, 161
Pforzheim, 339
Philibert, Margrave of Baden, 250
Philip "the Good," Duke of Burgundy, 89 n., 90, 155
Phoenicians, 21
Phoenicians jewellery, 7-10
Phoenix jewel, 218, 254, 255, 286
Phillips, Robert 335
Phylacteries, 122
Pichon, Baron, 119, 130, 264
"Picture-cases" (miniature-cases), English, 17 cent., 303
Pictures, jewellery in, 82, 329, 348-54
" Flemish jewellery in, 89, 90
" German jewellery in, 145, 189
" Italian, 15 cent., jewellery in, 167-76
" Italian, 16 cent., jewellery in, 183
" medl. necklaces in, 114-15
" " rings in, 155-6
Pierre d' AlenÇon, 343, 357
Piers Plowman, 153
Pilgrims' signs, 107-11, 222
" forgery of, 360-1
Piloty, 338
Pinchbeck, 315-16, 327, 359
" Christopher, 316, 261-2
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 37
" charm, 151-2
" with coins, Roman, 32
" with death's heads, 364
" decade, 150
" devotional, 149, 150, 152
" " signets, 153
" made by St. Dunstan, 67
" ecclesiastical, 147-9
" Egyptian, 2, 67
" engagement, 261-2, 296
" engraved designs for, 263, 264, 284, 295, 296
" episcopal, xlv, 148, 149
" Etruscan, 25, 26
" fede, 152, 261
" fyancel, 152
" giardinetti, 295
" gimmel, 152, 261
" Greek, 18
" with hair, 331
" worn on hats, 261
" iconographic, 149, 150
" of investiture, 148
" Italian, 15 cent., 170
" jet, 47
" Jewish, 262
" key-rings, Byzantine, 37
" " Roman, 31

" marquise, 321
" medl., 147-57
" " with antique gems, 96, 101, 103, 148-9, 153-4
" " with false stones, 356
" " forged, 360
" memento mori, 365-70
" memorial, 364-70
" mourning, 296, 321, 367
" Merovingian, 62, 73
" MycenÆan, 11
" worn on necklaces, 152, 261
" nielloed, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" " Italian, 15 cent., 173
" ornamental, xlv
" " medl., 154-5
" " Renaiss., 258, 259
" " 17 cent., 295, 296
" papal, 148
" Phoenician, 10
" in pictures, 155-7, 261, 263, 295
" poison, 32
" polypsephi, Roman, 32
" posy, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321, 367
" with relics, 152
" religious, 149-50
" Renaiss., 258-64
" arranged along a roll of parchment, 155, 156, 170, 263
" Roman, 31
" Romano-British, 47
" Samothracian, 32
" in ancient sculpture, 18
" signets, xlv, 298
" " of Childeric I, 53, 63
" " Egyptian, 6
" " Greek, 18
" " medl., 153-154
" " Roman, 31
" " 17 cent., 298
" talismanic, 111
" Teutonic, À trois grains, 73
" wedding, xlv
" " medl., 152
" " converted into memorial, 367
" " Jewish, 262
" " Renaiss., 262
" " 17 cent., 296
" " 18 cent., 321
" 17 cent., 295-6
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 320, 321
Rivard, C., 282, 291
Rivers, ornaments found in, 107
Roach Smith nouche, 69
Robin, 331
Robinson, F. S., 339
Rococo, 307, 308, 311, 324, 332
Rogart, 77
"Roman de la Rose," 113, 164
Roman jewellery, 27-32
Romano-British jewellery, 44-48
"Romantic" jewellery, 331
" style, 332
Romanus, Emperor, 34
Rome, Barberini Palace, 175
" Baths of Petus, 182
" Castle of St. Angelo, 334
" National Gallery, 225
" Vatican, 22
" " Appartamento Borgia, 267
" " Gallery of Constantine, 226
" " Library, 175
" " Loggie, 182
Romerswael, Marinus van, 156
Romney, Earl of, 273
Rosenheim, Max, 193 n., 294
"RÖssel," "das goldene," 88
Rosso, Il, 201
Rosaries, 124-5, 156
" as bracelets, 157
Rosary beads in form of skulls, 364
Rosette, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 294
Rothschild, Baron F., 303
" Baron K., 197
Rotterdam Gallery, 232
Rouen, 128
" peasant jewellery, 343
Roy, 237
Rubens, P. P., 287
Rubies, 148, 260
" of Charles the Bold. See Three Brothers
Rudolf II, Emperor, 100, 188, 189
Rudolphine Period, 188
Runic characters on Hunterston brooch, 79
Russia, Byzantine jewellery in, 38
" Greek jewellery in, 14-16
Sabines, 20
Sabra, princess, 224
SacrÉ Coeur, 345
Safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41
Saint, T. D., 312
St. Angelo in Vado, 333
St. Denis Cathedral, 137
" " treasury, 103
Saint Esprit, 343
St. Germain, MusÉe des AntiquitÉs Nationales, 46
St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate. See London
St. Hilary, jewel of, 103
St. Paul's Cathedral. See London
St. Petersburg, Hermitage Museum, 9, 15, 16
Saitapharnes, tiara of, 360
Salting, George, 119, 176, 224, 248, 263
Santini family, drawings by, 308, 317, 318, 344
Sapphires, 54, 151
Saragossa, treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, 144, 203, 249
Sarawak, Ranee of, 339
Sardinia, 8, 9, 21
Sardonyx, 31
Sarre, 59
" brooch, 60
Sarum, 138
Saur, C., 284
Savoy, peasant jewellery, 342
Saxons 50, 56
Scandinavians, 50
Scarabs, 2, 5, 6, 10, 25
Scent-cases, 125-6, 275
Schaffhausen onyx, 103, 104, 136
Schaper, Hugo, 238
Schliemann, H., 11, 40
Schneider, F., 137
SchÖnbrunn, 294
SchÖpfer, H. 250
Schotenornamentik, 281
Schwarzornamente, 283, 289
Scissors suspended to girdle, 272
Scorpion, jewelled, 172
Scotland, introduction of Christianity into, 75
" Celtic brooches, 75-9
" medl. brooches, 131-4
Scott, Sir Walter, 301, 331
Scythian tribes, 14
Seal stone, Egyptian, 6
Seals, medl., 139
" pendent, 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 322-4
" 19 " 332
Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 149
Seghers, D., 287
Seneca, 29
Serpent bracelet, Roman, 30
" ring, Greek, 18
Set-Hathor, 5
SÉvignÉs, 294, 298, 318
Shagreen jewel-cases, 362
Shale, Kimmeridge, 47
Shakespeare, W., 151, 216, 229, 237
" portrait of, 235
Shank (of ring), xlv
Sheffield plate, 315
" steelwork, 315
Sherborne Castle, 267
Ships, pendants in form of, 249, 252, 253, 347
Shoe-buckles, 299, 321, 322
" -strings, 322
Shoes, rosettes on, 299
Shore, Jane, 115
Shrines, jewels on, 91, 108
Sicily, 27
" Arabs in, 84
" peasant jewellery, 347
" Roman plunder of, 27
Siena Cathedral, 175
" school of painting, 167
Signacula, 109, 111
Signs of pilgrimage, 107
Silhouette, Etienne de, 314
" designs, 283, 284, 289, 304
" portraits, 314
Silhouettes in mourning jewellery, 369
Silver jewellery worn by virgins, 342
Similor, 316, 359
Simon, James, 163
Simpson, E., 339
" T., 304
"Sippenaltar," 145 n.
Sirens, pendants in form of, 250
Skeletons, 363-7
Skulls, 364-6
Slashes in garments, 259, 265, 268-9
Slides, 342, 343
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
Sloane, Sir Hans, 72, 211, 255
Slott-MÖller, H., 339
Smith, C. Roach, 62, 69
" J., 310
" R. Soden, 264
Sodoma (Bazzi), 233
Solder, Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 20, 21
" Greek, 13
" Phoenician, 8
" prehistoric, 39
Solis, Virgil, 193, 194
Somerset, Alfred in, 68
" Anne, Duchess of, 233, 273
" Edward Seymour, Duke of, 233, 273
" Robert Carr, Earl of, 235
Southampton, Henry Wriothesley, Earl of, 235
South Kensington Museum. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Spain, Arabs in, 84
" Phoenician sculpture in, 9
" peasant jewellery, 17, 360
Tytler, P. Fraser, 257
Ucker-Mark (N. Germany), 267
Ugadale brooch, 133
Uffila brooch, 62
Uffizi Gallery. See Florence
Umbria, peasant jewellery, 346
Unger, Elsa, 339
Unicorn, Master of the, 200
Unicorn's horn, 123
Unicorns on medl. jewels, 145
" on Renaiss. jewels, 243
Uniones, 28
University brooch, 78
UrÆus, 2
Urban VI, Pope, 122
Usekh collar, 5
Usertsen III, 5
Utrecht, John of, 208
Uza or utchat, 2
Van den Hecke, J., 287
Van der Cruycen, L., 312, 317
" Doort, Abraham, 219
" Goes, H., 114, 117, 144
" Gow, J., 213 n.
Van de Velde, H. C., 338
Van Dyck, A.,

354
Van Somer, P., 352
Van Strydonck, L., 339
Van Thielen, J. P., 287
Vasari, G., 168, 227
Vatican. See Rome
Vauquer, J., 287-9, 293
Vautier, 297
Velasquez, 294
Venetian pendants, Renaiss., 246
Venetians, sack of Constantinople by, 38
Veneto (Veneziano), Bartolommeo, 225
Venice, Byzantine jewellery in, 83-84
" Library of St. Mark's, 175
" in Middle Ages, 89
" port of, 15-16 cent., 167
" school of painting, 167
Vermiculated patterns in gold, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Vernicles, 130
Veronese, Paolo, 172
Veronica, 130 n.
Verre ÉglomisÉ, 203-4
Verrocchio, Andrea del, 168, 174 210
Versailles, Picture Gallery, 329
Verus, Lucius, 292
Vespasian, 28
Vespucci, Simonetta, 168
Vesuvius, 311
Vever, 338
Victoria, Q. of England, 257
Vienna, Imperial Art Collections, 30, 145, 185, 247
" Imperial Art Collections, Antiken-Kabinet, 228
" Picture Gallery, 155, 212
" Treasury, 188
" jewellery in, 18 cent., 308
" reproductions made in, 361
VigÉe-Lebrun, Madame, 329
Vinci, Leonardo da, 172
Virgin, The. See Mary, the Blessed Virgin
Visigoths, 50, 54
Vos, Cornelis de, 296
Vovert, J., 285
Vulci, 23, 24
Vyner, Sir Robert, 305
Waddesdon Bequest. See London, British Museum
Wagner, Anna, 339
Walpole, Horace, 214, 257, 288
Walsingham Priory, 91, 108
War of Liberation, German, 330
Wars of the Roses, 95
Warwick, Earls, badge of, 110
"Wasps," 316
Watches, 16 cent., 274
" 17 cent., 274, 275, 297-8
" 18 cent., 309, 323-4
" egg-shaped, 275
" false, 324
" in form of skulls, 364
Watch-cases, pinchbeck, 316
" " 18 cent., 313
" -chains, hair, 331
" -keys, 18 cent., 310, 322-3
Waterton, Edmund, 71, 149 n., 264
" collection. See London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Way, Albert, 257
Wedgwood, 315, 319, 321, 328, 330
Weimar, Picture Gallery, 261
Wells Cathedral, sculpture on, 128
Werner, J. H., 338
Westminster, 211, 268
" Abbey, 92, 102, 119, 141, 215
Whistles, pendent, 190, 193, 198, 250, 251
Wight, Isle of, 56, 57, 59, 60
Wild jewel, 218, 254
Wilde, W. R., 42 n.
William I, K. of England, 91
" III " 306
" Duke of Juliers, 250, 259
" St., of York, 141
" of Wykeham. See Wykeham
Williams, John, 238, 257, 302
Wilson, H., 339
Wilton House, 116
Winchester Cathedral, 98, 148
Windsor Castle, 219, 224, 225, 249, 257, 292
Witham, 74
Wittislingen, 62
Woeiriot, Pierre, 201, 219, 234, 246, 263, 366
Wolfers, P., 339
Wolgemut, M., 189
Wolsey, T., Cardinal, 208
Wootton-under-Edge (Gloucestershire), 116
Worley, Nicolas, 208
Wreaths, Byzantine, 35
" Greek, 16
" medl., 105
Wright, T., 101
Wykeham, William of, Bishop of Winchester, 96-8, 142, 149
Yecla, 9
York Minster, 138
" " shrine of the head of St. William, 141
Zerrenden, F., 339
Zona, 93
Zucchero, F., 253, 352, 353
Zundt, Mathias, 194

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] Ridgeway (W.), Early Age of Greece, p. 437.

[2] Fontenay (E.), Les bijoux anciens et modernes, p. 98.

[3] Babelon (E. C. F.), Catalogue des camÉes antiques de la Bib. Nat. (No. 367), p. 199.

[4] Dalton (O. M.), Catalogue of early Christian antiquities in the British Museum. 1901.

[5] Cunynghame (H. H.), European enamels, p. 40.

[6] Niello: a composition of lead, silver, sulphur, and borax.

[7] Wilde (W. R.), Cat. of antiquities of gold, p. 12.

[8] Bulliot (J. G.), Fouilles de Mont Beuvray (ancienne Bibracte) de 1867 À 1895. 1899.

[9] ArchÆologia, LVIII, p. 240, 1902.

[10] Dalton (O. M.), The treasure of the Oxus, 1905.

[11] A remarkable book descriptive of this treasure has been published by Professor Odobesco, of the University of Bucharest, in which the whole process of inlaying is discussed at considerable length. The same subject has been treated with the most minute care by the well-known art historian, M. Charles de Linas.

[12] AbbÉ Cochet, Le tombeau de ChildÉric I^er, 1859.

[13] Lasteyrie (F. de), Description du trÉsor de Guarrazar, 1860.

[14] De Baye (J.), The industrial arts of the Anglo-Saxons, p. 45.

[15] Faussett (B.), Inventorium sepulchrale, p. 78, Pl. 1.

[16] Arch. Journal, IV, p. 253. Another similar brooch from Abingdon is in the British Museum. See Akerman (J. Y.), Remains of pagan Saxondom, Pl. iii.

[17] ArchÆologia Cantiana, II, Pl. iii.

[18] Catalogue of Anglo-Saxon antiquities, p. xv.

[19] Green (J. R.), Short history of the English People (1875 ed.), p. 21.

[20] The Alfred Jewel, p. 45. 1901. Others consider that the jewel was the head of a book-marker or pointer.

[21] M. Molinier (Histoire gÉnÉrale des arts appliquÉs À l’industrie, IV, p. 93) is of the opinion that the enamel is English, and not, as some hold, of Byzantine origin. See also Victoria County History of Somerset, I, p. 376. 1906.

[22] ArchÆologia, XXIX, p. 70, Pl. x.

[23] Catalogue of the Alfred the Great millenary exhibition in the British Museum. 1901.

[24] Proc. Soc. Antiq., 2nd Series, XIX, p. 304. Such long stout pins could only have served to fasten coarse, loosely woven fabrics.

[25] J. R. Allen (Celtic Art, p. 219) describes the exact function of this brooch, and illustrates its use in ancient and modern times. (See also Reliquary, 2nd Series, I, p. 162. 1894.)

[26] Anderson (J.), Scotland in early Christian times, 2nd Series. 1881.

[27] Luthmer (F.), Gold und Silber, p. 50.

[28] Luthmer, op. cit., p. 72.

[29] Ibid., p. 50.

[30] Ilg (A.), Theophilus Presbyter, p. xliii.

[31] Cunynghame (H. H.), European enamels, p. 69.

[32] Kunstdenkmale des KÖnigreiches Bayern, I, iii, p. 2364. 1903.

[33] Some estimate of their magnificence and extent may be obtained by means of contemporary inventories. The most remarkable inventory is perhaps that of John’s eldest son, Charles V—“the Wise”—drawn up in 1379 and published by J. Labarte. Scarcely less remarkable are the jewel inventories of his three other sons, Louis Duke of Anjou, John Duke of Berry, and Philip (le Hardi) Duke of Burgundy, which have been published respectively by L. de Laborde, J. Guiffrey, and B. Prost.

[34] Several inventories of the contents of the Burgundian treasury have been preserved. Lists of the magnificent jewels of two of the most powerful and wealthy, those of Philip the Good (1396-1467) and his son Charles the Bold (1433-1477) have been published by Laborde in his Ducs de Bourgogne, Pt. 2, Vol. II.

[35] Bateson (M.), MediÆval England, p. 13.

[36] Ibid., p. 148.

[37] Published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1789. pp. 332-353.

[38] Rymer, Foedera, II, 1, pp. 203-205.

[39] Kalendars and Inventories of the Exchequer, III, p. 137.

[40] See list of his jewels in Inventories of the Exchequer, III, p. 166, and his Great Wardrobe Accounts (ArchÆologia, XXXI, p. 55).

[41] Paton (J.), Scottish national memorials, p. 337.

[42] The foremost interpreter of their mysteries in the Middle Ages was Marbode, Bishop of Rennes (1095-1123), in his De Lapidibus Pretiosis Enchiridion.

[43] King, Precious stones, p. 12.

Treatises on precious stones frequently find a place in sixteenth-century Herbals, and are often accompanied by very spirited woodcuts representing the working of precious stones and the process of adapting them to personal ornaments, together with designs of actual articles of jewellery in which they are set. Two of the finest books of the kind are—an Ortus Sanitatis (Strasburg, circa 1497), and a Kreuterbuch printed at Frankfort in 1536.

[44] Bock (F.), Das heilige KÖln. Schatzkammer des KÖlner Domes, p. 27.

[45] The Abbey of Conques, near Rodez, in the Department of Aveyron. See Darcel (A.) TrÉsor de Conques, p. 66.

[46] Rock (D.), Church of our fathers, III. 1, p. 393.

[47] Babelon (E. C. F.), Catalogue des camÉes de la Bib. Nat., p. 107.

[48] St. Luke, iv. 30; and St. John, viii. 2.

[49] Babelon, op. cit., p. 1.

[50] For a full description of this jewel, see a monograph by J. J. Oeri, entitled Der Onyx von Schaffhausen.

[51] Riley (H. T.), Memorials of London, p. 313.

[52] No attempt will here be made to enumerate the various forms of crowns and coronets. A general outline of the subject is set forth in chapter xxvi of Mr. Fox-Davies’ Art of Heraldry.

[53] Lambecius, Bib. Caes. Vindobon., II, p. 516; Laborde, Ducs de Bourgogne, Pt. 2, II, p. 113, no. 3100.

[54] Several writers on Pilgrims’ Signs state that a furnace destined for the same purpose may still be seen in an upper chamber in Canterbury Cathedral. Inquiry on the spot has failed to confirm the truth of this statement. The furnace in question has been used solely for the purpose of casting leadwork for repairing the roof. The badges were probably made somewhere in the Cathedral precints.

[55] Compare, An “Esmail d’Arragon,” by A. Van de Put (Burlington Magazine, VIII, p. 421, 1906; X, p. 261, 1907).

[56] Figured in Exposition de Budapest, 1884, Chefs-d’oeuvre d’orfÉvrerie, I, Pl. I. There is a reproduction of this remarkable specimen of Dinanderie in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

[57] Shaw (H.), Dresses and decorations, Pl. 60.

[58] Hist. MSS. Comm., IX, p. 56.

[59] Kalendars and Inventories, II, p. 165, etc.

[60] ArchÆologia, XXXIX, p. 264.

[61] Mr. Hartshorne (Arch. Journ., XXXIX, p. 366) considers the origin of the letters SS—par excellence the “crux antiquariorum,” he terms it—to lie between the words Seneschallus, Souverayne, and Sanctus, and of these he appears to be in favour of the first.

[62] See JahrbÜcher des Vereins von Alterthumsfreunden in Rheinlande, XXXIX, p. 272. Bonn, 1866.

[63] Wall (J. C.), Tombs of the Kings of England, p. 197. Evelyn’s Diary, Sept. 16, 1685.

[64] Kalendars etc., III, pp. 185, 188.

[65] Podlaha (A.), and Sittler (E.), Der Domschatz in Prag, pp. 113-132. 1903.

[66] A relic of this superstition still exists in the coral baubles hung with bells, with which infants are aided in cutting their teeth.

[67] Quoted from Bussy d’Amboise (1607) by Malone, commenting on the passage, “Unicorns may be betray’d with trees” (Julius CÆsar, II, i).

[68] Riley (H. T.), Memorials of London and London life, p. 455.

[69] Read (C. H.), Catalogue of the Waddesdon Bequest, No. 231.

[70] Probably abbreviated from ambregis (ambergris), the well-known odoriferous substance, so called from its resemblance to grey amber. It was the most highly prized of all perfumes in mediÆval times; and though its use is now almost entirely confined to perfumery, it formerly also occupied no inconsiderable place in pharmacy.

[71] Arch. Journ., III, p. 76.

[72] St. Luke, iv. 30.

[73] A Veronica, or Face of our Lord, frequently figured on hat-ornaments. Thus: “A vernicle hadde he sewed upon his cappe” (Chaucer, Canterbury Tales, l. 688). This jewel may perhaps have been a hat-brooch.

[74] Sometimes called (by metathesis) fremailleurs.

[75] Luthmer, op. cit., p. 74.

[76] Kunstgewerbe-Blatt, III, p. 21, 1887.

[77] Barbet de Jouy, Gemmes et joyaux de la couronne, Pl. XI.

[78] Rock, op. cit., III, iii, p. 101.

[79] Dugdale, History of St. Paul’s Cathedral (1818 ed.), p. 310.

[80] Fabric Rolls of York Minster (Surtees Society), p. 222.

[81] Compare p. 121.

[82] Shaw, Decorative arts of the Middle Ages, Pl. 7.

[83] It is intended, however, to be looked at from the reverse side through the crystal—when the device appears like a cameo.

[84] ArchÆologia, LIX, p. 25.

[85] Figured by Shaw, Dresses and decorations, Pl. 88, where it is erroneously described as the clasp of the Emperor Charles V.

[86] Pollen, Gold and silversmith’s work in the S. Kensington Museum, p. 98.

[87] Beissel, KunstschÄtze des Aachener Kaiserdomes, Pl. XIII.

[88] Barbet de Jouy, op. cit., Pl. X.

[89] Molinier, Donation de Adolphe de Rothschild, Pl. XIX.

[90] Giraud, Les arts du mÉtal, Pl. VII.

[91] Probably a corruption of the Latin words nusca, nuxa, a brooch or fibula (Prompt. Parv., p. 359).

[92] Testamenta Eboracensia (Surtees Society), I, p. 267.

[93] This effigy, and that of Anne of Bohemia, and of Henry IV and his Queen, may be studied from reproductions in the National Portrait Gallery.

[94] Kalendars and Inventories of the Exchequer, III. p. 344, etc.

[95] Revue de l’art chrÉtien, 1887, p. 276; and Humann (G.), Die Kunstwerke der MÜnster-Kirche zu Essen, Pl. 62.

[96] Compare this jewel with “un damoisell seant en un solaill” in Henry IV’s inventory.

[97] Compare Henry IV’s “i. damoisell et i. unicorn.”

[98] The same motive is figured on a morse shown on the left wing of a picture in the Cologne Museum known as the “Sippenaltar” (by the Meister der heiligen Sippe), dating from the end of the fifteenth century. The jewel is worn by S. Nicasius. It is trefoil in shape, and decorated with the figure of an angel, full face, holding a large stone in front.

[99] This jewel once formed part of the treasure of the House of Burgundy, and came into the Imperial Collections through the marriage of Mary of Burgundy with the Emperor Maximilian I.

[100] Amongst others there are three in each of the cathedrals of Chichester, York, Winchester, and Durham, and two at Hereford (ArchÆologia, XLV, p. 404).

[101] Waterton (E.), “Episcopal rings” (Arch. Journ., XX, p. 224), 1863.

[102] ArchÆologia, XVIII, p. 306.

[103] Arch. Journ., XX, p. 195.

[104] ArchÆologia, XXXVI, p. 200.

[105] Cartwright (J.), Isabella d’Este, I, p. 73.

[106] Many admirable representations of girdles are figured in Stothard’s Monumental effigies of Great Britain.

[107] Riley (H. T.), Memorials of London and London life, p. 154.

[108] Riley, op. cit., p. 399.

[109] Inventories of the Exchequer, III, p. 142.

[110] ArchÆologia, XXXI, p. 55.

[111] Inventories, etc., III, pp. 174, 184.

[112] These bars of metal were attached vertically at intervals to the belt or girdle to maintain the rigidity of the material. The word bar (corresponding to the French clou) was subsequently applied to all such attachments, which were sometimes perforated to allow the tongue of the buckle to pass through them (Way, Prompt. parv., p. 24).

[113] Hartshorne (A.), “Swordbelts of the Middle Ages” (Arch. Journ., XLVIII, p. 320).

[114] Way, Prompt. parv., p. 27, n. 2.

[115] There is the possibility that bells were worn as amulets, though not necessarily intended as such by their wearers. “Le son de l’airain,” like the tinkling ornaments of the daughters of Zion (Isa. iii. 18), was thought to have a prophylactic virtue. The double-tail mermaids of silver still worn in Naples as charms against the evil eye are always hung with little bells (Elworthy, The evil eye, p. 368).

[116] Inventories of the Exchequer, III, p. 337.

[117] Symonds (J. A.), Renaissance in Italy—The Fine Arts, p. 91.

[118] Williamson (G. C.), Francia, pp. 2, 3, 21, 38.

[119] For a photograph of this jewel, and for the information respecting it and the other works of this artist, I am indebted to the kindness of Dr. Williamson.

[120] WÖlfflin (H.), The art of the Italian Renaissance, p. 234.

[121] The whole of this magnificent work has been reproduced by Sijthoff, of Leyden, under the direction of Scato de Vries and Dr. S. Morpurgo.

[122] This tendency is as common as ever in the East, particularly among high-class natives of India, on account of the prevailing belief that the only safe way to invest money is to purchase precious stones and similar articles of intrinsic or sterling value. (See Nineteenth Century, LVIII, p. 290, 1905, “The origin of money from ornament.”)

[123] Proc. Soc. Antiq., XIV, p. 180.

[124] Reproduced by Quaritch in 1897 from a copy now in the possession of Mr. Max Rosenheim.

[125] Lichtwark (A.), Der Ornamentstich der deutschen FrÜhrenaissance, p. 111.

[126] Most of Mielich’s works have been reproduced by Hefner-Alteneck in his Deutsche Goldschmiede-Werke des 16^ten Jahrhunderts.

[127] Jannettaz, Diamant et pierres prÉcieuses, p. 423.

[128] Bucher, Geschichte der technischen KÜnste, II, p. 307.

[129] La collection Spitzer, III, p. 53.

[130] Brewer (J. S.), Henry VIII, I, p. 10.

[131] Letters and Papers of Henry VIII, II, p. 1441, etc.; III, p. 1533, etc.

[132] Letters and Papers, XII, No. 47.

[133] Lambecius, Bibliotheca CÆsarea Vindobonensi, II, p. 512.

[134] Kalendars and Inventories of the Exchequer, II, p. 304.

[135] That pendants were termed “flowers” is clear from W. Thomas’s Italian Grammar (1548), where a fermaglio is defined as “the hangeing owche, or flowre that women use to tye at the chayne or lace that they weare about their neckes” (Way, Prompt. parv., p. 359, n. 3).

[136] His family name was Van der Gow or Van der Goes. See L. Cust, Burlington Magazine, VIII, p. 356.

[137] An enormous number of these exist. A catalogue of them has been drawn up by Mr. F. M. O’Donoghue, of the British Museum.

[138] British Museum. MSS. No. 4827.

[139] Strickland, Queens of England, IV, pp. 262, 416.

[140] Vertue (G.), Catalogue of the collection of Charles I, p. 47.

[141] “He gave me a jewel the other day, and now he has beat it out of my hat” (Timon of Athens, Act iii.)

“Honour’s a good brooch to wear in a man’s hat at all times” (Ben Jonson, Poetaster).

“And his hat turned up, with a silver clasp on his leer side” (Ben Jonson, Tale of a Tub).

[142] BonnaffÉ (E.), La collection Spitzer, III, p. 134.

[143] Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of enamels, 1897.

[144] Letters and Papers of Henry VIII, IV, Nos. 1907 and 6789.

[145] L’Arte, II, p. 432, 1899.

[146] Hefner-Alteneck (J. H. von), Deutsche Goldschmiede-Werke des 16^ten Jahrhunderts, Pl. 12.

[147] This legend is the subject of a striking picture by Quentin Matsys (itself rich in representation of jewellery), which forms the left wing of the magnificent “Deposition” (No. 245), in the Antwerp Museum. A famous relic, the skull of the saint in Amiens Cathedral, exhibits a hole over the eyebrow.

[148] I trattati dell’ oreficeria. Ed. Milanesi, 1857. Chapter on Minuteria.

[149] In the night of December 17th, 1860, the Galleria delle Gemme of the Uffizi was entered by thieves, who carried off a large number of gems and jewels. Most of the gems were recovered, but nearly all robbed of their settings. All the jewels were lost (Gotti, A., Le Gallerie di Firenze, pp. 229 and 388).

[150] Kenner (F.), Cameen und Modelle des XVI. Jahrhunderts, p. 27 (Jahrbuch der Kunsthistor. Sammlungen des Kaiserhauses, IV), 1886.

[151] A jewelled enseigne known as the “Star Jewel,” once the property of Sir Francis Drake, belongs to Sir F. Fuller-Eliott-Drake. It is enriched with translucent red enamel, and has rubies set in the rays, with opals and diamonds interspersed in the border, round an engraved ruby in the centre. It has four loops behind for attaching to the hat.

[152] ArchÆologia, XXI, p. 152.

[153] Inuentaires de la Royne Descosse Douairiere de France (published by the Bannatyne Club), p. 87.

[154] Crystal quartz found in the Clifton limestone, and known as Bristol diamonds.

[155] Nichols (J.), Illustrations of the manners and expenses of ancient times in England, Pt. III, p. 26.

[156] Nuremberg: Germanisches Museum. Mitteilungen, 1894, p. 73.

[157] Letters and Papers, IV, No. 1907.

[158] Nichols, Progresses of Queen Elizabeth, II, p. 498.

[159] Luthmer, Gold und Silber, p. 100.

[160] Davenport, Cameos, 1900.

[161] Cf. “Une petite nef d’or, estoffÉe de tout son appareil” (Invent. of Mary, dau. of Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and wife of Maximilian I. Lille: Archives du Nord, VIII, p. 171.)

[162] Cf. “A juell of golde, wherein is a parret hanging” (New Year’s gifts to Queen Elizabeth, 1578-9).

[163] Henry VIII, Letters and Papers, IV, No. 6789.

[164] Nichols, Progresses of Q. Elizabeth, I, pp. 380, 412; II, p. 52.

[165] See Connoisseur, V, p. 80. The gems and jewels at Windsor Castle, by H. Clifford Smith.

[166] Way(A.), Cat. of antiquities and historical Scottish relics, Edinburgh, 1859, p. 163. See also Connoisseur, loc. cit.

[167] See note, p. 235.

[168] Calendar of State Papers, Domestic, Aug., 1596.

[169] Compare pp. 293 and 297. See Darcel (A.), Notice sur Émaux et de l’orfÉvrerie (Louvre), p. 81. See also Labarte (J.), Les arts industriels (2nd ed., II, p. 136, 1873), “L’Émaillerie cloisonnÉe sur cristal.”

[170] See p. 301.

[171] I will have my pomander of most sweet smell,
Also my chains of gold to hang about my necke.
Book of Robin Conscience (circa 1600).

[172] The only modern French word for the pomander is cassolette. In German and Italian there is a tendency to revive the old titles Bisamapfel and Oldano.

[173] Reproduced by Quaritch in 1888.

[174] Burlington Magazine, VIII, p. 130, 1905.

[175] Reproduced by Quaritch in 1888.

[176] Mariette, Abecedario, IV, p. 133.

[177] These are described in the Connoiseur, V, p. 243.

[178] See pp. 273 and 297.

[179] Historical MSS. Commission, IV, p. 286.

[180] Calendar of State Papers, Domestic, March 18, 1623.

[181] See p. 209.

[182] Nichols, Progresses of James I, IV, p. 830. A complete list of the jewels removed from the Tower is given in ArchÆologia, XXI, p. 148.

[183] Nichols, op. cit., III, p. 548.

[184] Devon (F.), Issues of the Exchequer, James I (Pell records), p. 49.

[185] ArchÆologia, XV, p. 19.

[186] Examples of these jewelled frames are preserved in Mr. Pierpont Morgan’s collection of miniatures. For the information respecting them I am indebted to the kindness of Dr. Williamson, author of the catalogue of that collection.

[187] Les bijoux anciens et modernes, p. 294.

[188] See Connoisseur, XII, p. 81.

[189] Kindly communicated by the late Sir Dominic Colnaghi.

[190] Davies (G. S.), Frans Hals, p. 88.

[191] Munro (R.), ArchÆology and false antiquities.
Eudel (P.), Le Truquage, 1887. Trucs et Truqueurs, 1907.

[192] ArchÆological Journal, XXI, p. 167. A collection of pseudo-antiques of the kind made at the ateliers of Messrs. Billy and Charley, Rosemary Lane, Tower Hill, is shown in the Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, London.

[193] Cook (T. A.), The history of Rouen, p. 293.

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