Some of the old people among all Ojibwe still use vegetable and native dye stuffs, especially upon a mat or piece of material that they expect to keep for their own use. For the tourist trade, they will use “Diamond” dyes or any sort they can get as they are not especially interested in how well the color lasts in that case. John Whitefeather, Flambeau Ojibwe, asked the writer to find a good dye for them, as he had been unable to buy any since 1914. Several lots were sent to him, but none was found that had the penetration and permanence of the German dyes that he had before the war. He had to resort to native dye stuffs to get those qualities, but, of course, could not get the same range of colors in native dye stuffs. That was the main reason he sought more of the white man’s dyes.

They boil the material they wish to color in the mixture of plant parts and some earth to set the color. For this they use various clays, the red or black sand that bubbles up in a spring, or stone dust, perhaps with a few, rusty, iron nails thrown in the kettle for good measure. Sometimes the bark of Black Oak (Quercus velutina Lam.) was used to set the color.

OJIBWE DYE PLANTS

ANACARDIACEAE (SUMAC FAMILY)

Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra L.), “bakwa'nak” [binding tree]. The Flambeau Ojibwe use the inner bark and the central pith of the stem of the Smooth Sumac, mixed with Bloodroot to obtain an orange color. The material is boiled in the mixture.

Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina L.), “bakwana'tÎg”. The Pillager Ojibwe do not have the Smooth Sumac, but use the Staghorn Sumac in the same way as the Flambeau Ojibwe use the other. The writer was unable to discover how they set the color unless it was with some stone dust that accumulated in the base of the kettle.

BALSAMINACEAE (TOUCH-ME-NOT FAMILY)

Spotted Touch-me-not (Impatiens biflora Walt.), “o'sawaskodji'bÎk” [yellow root]. The whole plant is used by the Pillager Ojibwe to make a yellow dye and the material is boiled in the mixture with a few rusty nails.

BETULACEAE (BIRCH FAMILY)

Speckled Alder (Alnus incana [L.] Moench.), “wado'b” [its name]. The Flambeau Ojibwe use the inner bark for dyeing a light yellow, or with other ingredients to get a red, red brown or black. In occasional cases where sweet grass is dyed reddish yellow, the woman chews the inner bark and draws a wisp of sweet grass through her mouth weaving it in for color.

Paper Birch (Betula alba L. var. papyrifera [Marsh.] Spach), “wÎgwas” [birch]. The innermost bark of the White Birch is boiled to extract a reddish dye by the Flambeau Ojibwe.

Hazelnut (Corylus americana Walt.), “mÛkwo'baga'nak”. The Flambeau Ojibwe make use of the seed hulls of the Hazelnut in setting the black color of butternut dye. They are boiled together and the tannic acid of the hull sets the color.

FAGACEAE (BEECH FAMILY)

Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa Michx.), “mÊtÎ'gomÎc”. The Flambeau Ojibwe use this bark in combination with other materials to set color.

Black Oak (Quercus velutina Lam.), “mÊtÎ'gomic”. The Flambeau Ojibwe use this bark for a reddish yellow dye and it sets its own color.

JUGLANDACEAE (WALNUT FAMILY)

Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.), “baga'nag”. The Flambeau and Pillager Ojibwe find this one of their best brown dyes, because they can get it from the tree at any time of the year. It is usually used in other combinations for brown and black colors.

MYRICACEAE (BAYBERRY FAMILY)

Sweet Gale (Myrica gale L.), “wa'sawasni'mÎke” [yellow catkins]. In the fall of the year, the tips of the branches grow into an abortive scale or gall-like structure that is plucked and boiled to yield a brown dye stuff. The Flambeau Ojibwe seem to be the only Ojibwe that know this.

PAPAVERACEAE (POPPY FAMILY)

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis L.), “meskwa'djibÎkÛk” [red root]. The Ojibwe use this root in four or five combinations in dyeing various materials. It is not necessary to mix it with other materials to set the color and alone it gives a dark yellow or orange color. They use it to paint the face, also, making different clan marks with it. Either the fresh root or dried root may be used.

PINACEAE (PINE FAMILY)

Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis [L.] Carr.), “gagagi'wÎc”. The Flambeau Ojibwe use the bark together with a little rock dust to set the color, to dye materials a dark red brown.

RANUNCULACEAE (CROWFOOT FAMILY)

Goldthread (Coptis trifolia [L.] Salisb.), “we'sawadji'bÎkwe'ak” [yellow root?], shown in plate 75, fig. 1. The Flambeau Ojibwe add the golden-colored roots to other plant dyes to emphasize the yellow color.

Bristly Crowfoot (Ranunculus pennsylvanicus L. f.), “manwe'gons”. The entire plant is boiled by the Flambeau Ojibwe to yield a red coloring dye. Bur Oak is added to set the color.

ROSACEAE (ROSE FAMILY)

Wild Plum (Prunus nigra Ait.), “bÛgesana'tÎg”. The Flambeau Ojibwe use the inner bark as an astringent color fixative in dyeing with other plant dyes.