The First Sabbath in the Valley

July 25, 1847, was the Sabbath. It was a pleasant day, and at ten o’clock the pioneers met in worship in the circle of their encampment. Elders George A. Smith, Heber C. Kimball and Ezra T. Benson were the speakers. They expressed gratitude for the blessings of the Lord during their travels to this promised land. Not a soul had died on the toilsome journey. In the afternoon another service was held and the sacrament was administered. Elders Wilford Woodruff, Orson Pratt and Willard Richards were the speakers at this service. The principal address was given by Elder Pratt who took for his text Isaiah 52:7–8: “How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings; that publisheth peace,” etc. He stated that the predictions of the prophets were now being fulfilled.

President Young’s Advice

President Young was too feeble to make any extended remarks, but near the close of the services he gave some very important advice. Elder Wilford Woodruff made a synopsis of his remarks as follows: “He told the brethren that they must not work on Sunday; that they would lose five times as much as they would gain by it. None were to hunt on that day; and there should not any man dwell among us who would not observe these rules. They might go and dwell where they pleased, but should not dwell with us. He also said that no man who came here should buy any land; that he had none to sell, but every man should have his land measured out to him for city and farming purposes. He might till it as he pleased, but he must be industrious and take care of it.” Later, instructions were given that there should be no private ownership of the streams, and only dead timber should be used for fuel, as trees were none too plentiful and should be conserved. These regulations were adopted by the community in justice to all, for it was expected that within a very short time the Saints who were then on the plains—the exiles from Nauvoo, some twenty thousand in number—and others coming from various states and from Europe, would be gathered to the Rocky Mountains.

Explorations of the Valley

Naturally the pioneers were impatient to explore the surrounding country. Their first duty was to plant the seed they brought with them. Plowing began on the 23rd and continued during the 24th. Monday morning, July 26th, a number of exploring companies were sent out, including the eight apostles in the camp and Elders Albert Carrington, William Clayton, John Brown and Joseph Matthews. The two latter crossed the river, which was called the Utah Outlet and later the Western Jordan, and ascended the mountains on the west of the valley. They reported, on their return, that the land on that side of the valley was not as good as the land on the east side. Some of the brethren penetrated some of the canyons where they found timber of good quality. President Young, Wilford Woodruff and others of the brethren visited the hot and also the warm springs at the north end of the valley, and made some observations. Their explorations continued for several days. On the 27th of July, they explored the Tooele Valley. On the way they had a bath in the lake and were much surprised at the buoyancy of the water. That night they camped at Black Rock and the following day they traveled about ten miles south along the eastern base of the Oquirrh Mountains, where, in the main, they found a barren country and very little water. Orson Pratt ascended the mountain where he obtained a view of Utah Lake, which he judged to be about twenty miles away. Striking eastward across the valley they returned to camp. On this trip they saw about one hundred goats, sheep and antelope. They returned satisfied that the spot where the pioneers had camped was the best on which their city could be built.

A Place for an Ensign

On the 26th, they also ascended the mountain above the hot springs to get a better view of the surrounding country, and by aid of their glasses were able to discern the Utah Outlet at the point of the mountain, where it enters the Salt Lake Valley on the south. A number of streams were also seen flowing from the mountains into the valley. As they stood upon the mountain President Young remarked that it would be a good place to lift up an ensign, referring to Isaiah’s prophecy; so they named it “Ensign Peak,” by which name it has since been known. In later years a flagstaff was placed upon it.

The Building of a City

After returning from their explorations on the 28th, a council was held in the evening and it was decided to build a city. Some of the brethren suggested that they explore further before deciding on a site for a settlement. President Young replied that he was willing that they should explore until they were satisfied, but every time a party went out and returned he believed they would agree that this was the spot on which they should locate.

It was decided that the city should be laid out in blocks of ten acres each with streets eight rods wide running at right angles. The blocks were to be divided into lots containing one and one-quarter acres each, with exceptions in certain parts where the lay of the land would be inconvenient for such arrangement. The houses were to be of uniform distance from the street and only one house to a lot. “Upon every alternate block four houses were to be built on the east, and four on the west side of the square, but none on the north and south sides. But the blocks intervening were to have four houses on the north and four on the south, but none on the east and west sides. In this plan there will be no houses fronting each other on the opposite sides of the streets, while those on the same side will be about eight rods apart, having gardens running back twenty rods to the center of the block.” Such was their description. There were to be four public squares of ten acres each in various parts of the city. “Let every man,” said President Young, “cultivate his own lot and set out every kind of fruit and shade tree and beautify the city.” This plan was laid before the camp and approved unanimously.

The Place for the Temple

During the westward journey the building of a temple was a constant theme. On the evening of the 28th of July, President Young and the apostles with Thomas Bullock, the clerk, walked from their camp northward to a spot between the forks of City Creek, and there President Young designated a site for the building of a temple. Waving his hand he said: “Here is the forty acres for the temple, and the city can be laid out perfectly square north and south, east and west.”

Orson Pratt’s Survey

The survey of the city was made by Orson Pratt. His line was on the southeast corner of the Temple Block. Beginning at that point the city was marked out into blocks of ten acres each. It was decided by the brethren that instead of using forty acres for the site it would be better to have that block conform in size with the others. According to Orson Pratt’s calculations, the latitude of the north boundary of the Temple Block was 40 degrees, 35 minutes and 34 seconds. The longitude was 111 degrees, 26 minutes and 34 seconds west of Greenwich. The altitude was 4,300 feet above sea level. Later government observations varied from these of Elder Pratt but slightly.

Arrival of the Battalion and Mississippi Members

In addition to the twelve members of the battalion and the advance company of Mississippi Saints who came into the valley with the pioneers,¹ the detachments of the battalion who wintered at Pueblo under the command of Captain James Brown and Nelson Higgins, together with the main body of the Mississippi Saints, entered the Salt Lake Valley, under direction of Captain James Brown, July 29, 1847. This increased the number in the camp to about four hundred souls. They brought with them about sixty wagons, one hundred head of horses and mules and three hundred head of cattle.

Immediately after their arrival the battalion members built a bowery, the first structure in the valley in which public meetings could be held with some degree of comfort, and the worshipers receive protection from the excessive heat of the sun.

Renewal of Covenants

Having been unable to live in peace in former habitations because of persecutions of wicked men, the Saints now rejoiced at the prospect before them. It was proposed by President Young and the apostles that they renew their covenants with the Lord and solemnly promise that they would henceforth keep his commandments in this land where they were free from religious persecution. In the humility and thankfulness of their hearts for their deliverance, the apostles set the example. August 6, President Young was baptized, and each of the apostles were likewise baptized in turn. This was not done as an acknowledgment that their former baptism was not efficacious, or that they had broken covenants formerly received, but as an acknowledgment before the Lord of their willingness to serve him henceforth and forever. To this proposition all the camp of Israel said Amen, and the ordinance of baptism was administered to all.

The First Births and Death in the Colony

The first birth in the pioneer camp was that of a daughter to John and Catharine Campbell Steele, August 9, 1847. The father was a member of the battalion and he and his wife had arrived in the camp but a few days before. The child was named Young Elizabeth Steele, in honor of President Brigham Young and Queen Elizabeth. Two days later the colony was called upon to mourn because of the death of Milton H. Therlkill, three years old, and son of George W. and Jane Therlkill, of the Mississippi company. The child had wandered from the camp and was drowned in City Creek. A few days later (August 15th) a daughter was born to these same parents. This was the second birth in the colony.

The “Old Fort”

Three days after the Pioneers arrived in the valley, Indians of the Ute and Shoshone tribes commenced visiting the camp, begging and endeavoring to trade for guns and ammunition, and incidentally to steal when opportunity afforded. On one occasion a fight ensued and the Shoshones killed a Ute who had stolen one of their horses. President Young instructed the Saints that they should trade no more with the Indians, who were manifesting a spirit of jealousy because the pioneers treated one tribe the same as the other.

As a means of protection against Indian raids and thefts, it was decided to build a fort, or stockade, on one of the city ten-acre squares. The site chosen is now known as Pioneer Park, three blocks south and three west of the Temple Block. At a meeting held August 1, 1847, it was decided that the enclosure should be built of logs and sundried bricks (adobes). The brethren immediately went to work preparing the timbers and adobes for this purpose. August 10, work started on the stockade. The walls were twenty-seven inches thick and nine feet high on the outer side. It was built as a continuation of huts joined together in rectangular form around the outside of the ten acres on which it stood. The east side was built of logs, and the three other sides of adobe walls. The roofs slanted but slightly inward, and were made of brush covered with earth. Each house had a loop-hole facing the outside and a door and windows facing the interior. The main entrances, which were on the east and west sides of the stockade, were carefully guarded by heavy gates which were locked at night. In the winter and spring months the snow and rain caused the mud to leak through the roofs, to the great discomfort of the inhabitants. Wagon covers, and other articles which would shed moisture, were utilized, to protect beds and bedding. Notwithstanding the discomforts and inconveniences of life under such conditions, the Saints spent many pleasant hours within the walls of their temporary homes. Two additional blocks were joined to the original fort, one on the north and one on the south, to accommodate later arrivals in the valley. These were designated as the North Fort and the South Fort, and were similar in construction to the first, or Old Fort, as it was called. During the first winter, schools were taught in the fort by Julian Moses and Miss Mary Ann Dillworth.

Captain Brown’s Journey to the Coast

A question had arisen regarding the Pueblo detachment of the Mormon Battalion. They were under orders to march to the Pacific coast, but the term of their enlistment had expired. Should they go to the coast to be mustered out of service, or should that duty be performed by their company officers? After some deliberation it was decided that they should be mustered out of service, and that Captain James Brown with a small company should go to California and report to the army officers there, and with a power of attorney from each of the men, draw their pay. Captain Brown, with several members of the battalion, departed for San Francisco, August 9, piloted by Samuel Brannan. Brannan returned to California greatly disappointed because President Young would not hearken to his counsel and continue on to the coast, where he thought conditions for permanent settlement were more favorable than the desolate valleys of the mountains. Captain Brown carried with him a message from President Young to the battalion members on the coast, advising all who had no families to remain in California through the winter and obtain work, and in the spring come to the Salt Lake Valley with their earnings. Captain Brown’s company went by way of the northern route and were accompanied as far as Fort Hall, by Jesse C. Little, Joseph Matthews, John Brown and others, who explored the Cache and Weber valleys. These brethren returned with favorable reports.

Special Conference in the Valley

Sunday, August 22, 1847, a special conference was held in the Salt Lake Valley. It was agreed to fence the city, and such portions of adjacent lands as might be deemed proper for cultivation, thus affording protection from cattle. “By this means,” said President Young, “we can raise thousands of bushels of grain next season for ourselves and also some to sustain those who shall come after us. I would rather fence a block of ten acres, and have a crop, than plant a hundred acres for the cattle to destroy.”

It was decided that a presidency and a high council be appointed to preside over the Saints in the valley. Elder John Smith, uncle of the Prophet Joseph Smith, who was at the time on the plains, was chosen as president. President Young moved that “we call this place ‘The Great Salt Lake City, of the Great Basin of North America,’” and that the post office be called “The Great Basin Post Office.” Elder Heber C. Kimball moved that the river running west of the settlement be called “The Western Jordan.” Some of the creeks were also named as follows: City Creek, Red Butte Creek, Canyon Creek (afterwards Emigration Creek) and Big Canyon Creek (Parley’s Creek). Those streams farther to the south were not named at that time.

At the close of the services Elder Heber C. Kimball remarked: “This is a paradise to me, and one of the loveliest places I ever beheld. I hope none of us will be left alive to pollute this land. I would rather die than act as inconsistent as many have in times past.”

The Return of the Pioneers

President Young felt great anxiety for the companies of Saints who were on the plains wending their way to the valley. There was much to be done in order to care properly for those who had already arrived, protect them from hostile Indians and prepare for the coming winter season. This labor required his attention and that of the leading brethren for some days. However, it was deemed necessary that a company start back at once to meet the oncoming immigrants. Monday, August 2, 1847, it was decided in a council meeting, that Elder Ezra T. Benson with a company of horsemen should start back immediately. About noon on that day this company departed. They carried instructions from President Young to obtain the names of all who were in the several camps, together with the number of wagons, horses, oxen and other animals; also to ascertain the condition of the health and needs of the immigrants, so that assistance might be rendered where necessary. August 16 and 17, a company selected from the original pioneers and battalion started back for this purpose. This company consisted of seventy-one men, with thirty-three wagons, fourteen mules and ninety-two yoke of oxen. It was divided into two divisions with Tunis Rappleyee and Shadrach Roundy as captains. August 26, President Young and the apostles started on their return to Winter Quarters. This company consisted of one hundred and eight men, thirty-six wagons, seventy-one horses and forty-nine mules. They passed a number of trains on the way to the valley, totaling more than fifteen hundred men, women and children, with five hundred and sixty wagons and five thousand head of stock. Among these immigrants were Elders Parley P. Pratt and John Taylor of the council of the apostles, who were in charge of the companies.

President Young’s Instructions and Blessing

President Young arrived at Winter Quarters, October 31, after an eventful journey back across the plains. When the company arrived within a mile of Winter Quarters, President Young called them together and made the following remarks:

“Brethren, I will say to the pioneers, I wish you would receive my thanks for your kindness and willingness to obey orders. I am satisfied with you; you have done well. We have accomplished more than we expected. The one hundred and forty-three men who started, some of them sick, are all well. Not a man has died; and we have not lost a horse, mule or ox, except through carelessness. The blessings of the Lord have been with us. If the brethren are satisfied with me and the Twelve, please signify it with uplifted hands. (All hands were raised.) I feel to bless you in the name of the Lord God of Israel. You are dismissed to go to your homes.”

The company then drove into the town of Winter Quarters in order, arriving about one hour before sunset. The streets of the town were filled with eager people and the weary pioneers rejoiced once more to behold their wives, children and friends.

Organization of a Stake of Zion

Sunday, October 3, 1847, the Saints in the Salt Lake Valley met in conference and transacted business which had been proposed by President Young and the apostles before their departure. “Uncle” John Smith, who had been chosen before his arrival, was sustained as president of the Salt Lake Stake of Zion, with Charles C. Rich and John Young as his counselors. Members of the high council were also chosen as follows: Henry G. Sherwood, Thomas Grover, Levi Jackman, John Murdock, Daniel Spencer, Lewis Abbot, Ira Eldredge, Edson Whipple, Shadrach Roundy, John Vance, Willard Snow and Abraham O. Smoot.

Charles C. Rich was also selected as chief military commander under the direction of the stake authorities. Albert Carrington was selected to act as clerk and historian of the city, and John Van Cott as marshal.

Population at the Close of 1847

The last company to enter the valley in 1847 arrived in October. The several companies were listed by Thomas Bullock as follows: President Young’s pioneer company, 148; the Mississippi company, 47; Mormon Battalion, 210; Daniel Spencer’s company, 204; Parley P. Pratt’s company, 198; Abraham O. Smoot’s company, 139; Charles C. Rich’s company, 130; George B. Wallace’s company, 198; Edward Hunter’s company, 155; Joseph Home’s company, 197; Joseph B. Noble’s company, 171; W. Snow’s company, 148; and Jedediah M. Grant’s company, the last of the season, 150. The total being 2,095 souls for the year.

Notes