The subject of cycling is distinctly a many-sided one. While the same general remarks which apply to the subject of exercise for women, apply also to the use of the cycle, we should remember that though every woman is benefitted by exercise of some kind, there are a few women who are not fitted to ride the cycle at all. This may seem a strong assertion from one who is devoted to cycling, and who so thoroughly believes in its health-giving properties. But though to the practised rider cycling is much easier work than walking, to the novice, or to the unskilled rider, and even to the skilled rider who is out of form, it becomes hard work. Especially in learning, an amount of muscular effort is required which some women are unfitted to undertake. Therefore, we must assume that the would-be cyclist is a person of average health, strength, and activity, and to such an one, the cycle should be a boon indeed. It is impossible to lay down rules as to who is fit or unfit to take up the pastime, for even doctors are sometimes much at fault on this point. My own view is that any girl, or older woman either, who is used to a fair amount of exercise, should be able to cycle and to cycle well, in time. But those with weak hearts or similar complaints should not attempt to cycle, any more than they should run upstairs quickly or climb steep hills.

Before leaving the health view of cycling, I wish to impress most strongly on all who take up cycling the necessity of "taking it easily" at first. Apart from the fact that actually the hardest work is in the learning, it must be remembered that even after the learner can ride without assistance, the body has to become accustomed to an entirely new form of exercise. If you took a good walker and stopped her from all walking exercise for a few months, how tired she would get when she began again. This fatigue would continue until her muscles had got into good order again, and yet walking comes naturally to everyone. Cycling does not come naturally, except in very rare instances, so how much more necessary is it to begin carefully, and let the body become gradually accustomed to it. The girl who rides ten or fifteen miles after being on a cycle only once or twice, and who—from not having mastered the art of riding—uses two or three times more exertion over it than she need, would not dream, perhaps, of walking five miles on end at a good pace. Yet she then pronounces the cycle "hard work," and says she finds no pleasure in it. No wonder!

Really to appreciate cycling many conditions are necessary, and that is why I called it a many-sided subject at the outset. First of all it is an active exercise, so those who have not been in the habit of taking enough outdoor exercise in other forms, must not expect to cycle with comfort or enjoyment until they have gradually got their general health, into a state which is known as "fit." Then when the cyclist is fitted in herself to enjoy riding, there are other things to be considered, and these I put as follows:

(a) To ride correctly; (b) to have a good cycle, suited to the particular requirements of the rider, and properly adjusted; and (c) to look well.

First then as to Riding, and here we are met by the reflection, how few women ride really well. It makes me sad to see how badly three-fourths of the riders one meets are getting along, and when I reflect how much more they would enjoy themselves, and how much better they would look if taken in hand for a time by a good tutor, I feel angry at the so-called "Instructors" one usually has to put up with at the average riding school.

When you are learning, you should if possible select a grass lawn, or failing this a quiet piece of broad road, and practice on this little and often. Short rides, even of a few yards, are valuable, if done frequently. The pupil should not get over-tired, or struggle on after her efforts become worrying. She should take a rest and have another turn a few hours later, and will then find the result very different. To the novice my advice is, do not trouble about mounting and dismounting without assistance, as this will come later as a matter of course.

The object must be to sit quite still in the saddle, and not to rely on the handles. Good riders never move their bodies at all, but ride with their hands just resting lightly on the handles, not pulling at them. In time it will be found the machine can be steered by just slightly inclining the shoulders in the direction in which it is wished to turn. Above all things when you are learning do not fix your eyes on the front wheel, but look ahead. This is essential.

When the machine goes naturally in a straight line, then the rider will know that she is not only sitting well, but has begun to acquire the art of pedalling. There is a very great deal in pedalling evenly, as this not only lessens the labour but takes away all difficulty of steering. When a rider sits well and pedals well, there is practically no steering to be done, for the machine will go automatically in the direction desired by the rider, or so at least it will appear. The saddle should be so adjusted that when the pedal is at its lowest point, the foot of the rider should be just able to drop on to it naturally, without quite straightening the knee. A good way to test this, is to stretch the toe out as far as it will go (knee quite straight) and if the foot will just go underneath the pedal, no more, the length of reach is correct.

Force should never be exerted in driving the pedals, they must be "coaxed" round, for this in a word is the art of "ankling." When the pedal is at the top of the stroke, the heel should be downward as in Fig. 1. As the pedal travels forward and down, the foot should follow it, keeping the ankle as still as possible, till at the bottom of the stroke, the toe is pointing downwards, and the heel is highest. The effect of this will be first of all to give power in riding as shown by Fig. 2. If the foot is pressed downward only, it will be in operation for a very small part of the stroke, as the pedal moves in a circle, but by ankling, it will easily be seen (Fig. 3) that power is maintained for a much longer time.

From a woman's point of view too the effect of ankling is still more important, as beside the gain in speed, it promotes gracefulness. The rise and fall of the knee in riding, is reduced by one half when the ankles are used properly, and the result to the onlooker is consequently more pleasing. For the skirt to hang gracefully and the rider to look well, there should be as little movement of the knees as possible. Therefore, if you sit sufficiently high and use your ankles properly, you will not only be using your powers to the very best advantage, and lessening fatigue, but will at the same time be attaining gracefulness, and in every way improving your appearance in the saddle.

Another important point is to keep the legs straight up and down when riding. The knees should not be allowed to go either inwards or outwards on any account, and there should be no "wobbling" in the leg action. The toe and heel should be in a line, at right angles across the pedal, that is, exactly parallel with the crank all the time. Take care that the heel does not twist at all (Fig. 4) on the stroke.

Learn to mount from either side of the machine, and to do so lean the machine a little toward you with the outside pedal up, and rather forward, then place your foot on the pedal furthest from you, and as you raise yourself into the saddle, the weight of your body will bear on that pedal, thus sending the opposite one up to meet the other foot.

The dress should be caught in the hand as you put your foot across the machine on to the pedal, and if any further arrangement should be necessary you will, when you are at home in the saddle, find it easy to do this as you go along. A slight pull to the side will be all that is required. When once in the saddle, do not be anxious to find the other pedal, simply keep the machine straight, as it will run a surprising distance of its own accord after the start given to it by the act of mounting, unless, indeed, you should be mounting up hill, which is never desirable for a beginner to attempt. If the foot which was on the ground is allowed to hang downwards as soon as the rider is seated in the saddle, it will find the pedal quite naturally, in fact the pedal will come round to the foot. In dismounting as in mounting, the rider should learn to do it with equal ease and confidence from either side. When the pedal is coming upward, throw the weight upon it—this stops the momentum of the machine—at the same time rising out of the saddle, then pass the other foot over the cycle and step down in front of the pedal, on which the weight of the body is resting. A firm grasp should be kept on both handles, and the machine inclined towards the rider, on the side she dismounts.

The rule of the road is usually ignored by cycling women, but nothing in connection with the pastime is really more important. To observe it always whether necessary or not, is to reduce the possibility of accident to a minimum. It then becomes a habit, and in an emergency the instinct is to do the right thing immediately, the value of which can scarcely be over-estimated. Always ride then to the left side of the road, whether there are vehicles about or not. Remember, it is the unexpected that always happens, and should a cart or cycle suddenly appear from a bye road, an accident will almost surely happen if you are on the side that should be free for them. If in spite of your caution an accident happens, you will at least have the chance of being compensated if you can prove that you were on your proper side at the time; you certainly would not, if you were on the wrong side. There are only two occasions on which this rule is deviated from, viz.: when passing a vehicle which is going in the same direction or when passing a led horse going in either direction. When overtaking a vehicle, never pass between it and the pavement or side-walk, for the tendency is for the driver to pull in toward the left when he hears anything behind him. With a led horse the custom is to keep the man in charge always between oneself and the led horse, no matter in which part of the road the latter may be. The reason is obvious, led horses being sometimes playful with their heels.

The most fruitful cause of accidents is the wrong taking of corners. The right way to do it, however, is very simple. Thus if proceeding along a road, and desiring to turn off to the left, make the curve (if possible) in the road you are in, and thus enter the other road on the left, i.e., safe side. Remember that you cannot see what is in the other road, and the act of turning will make the machine swing out more or less from the proper side (Fig. 5).

The principle is reversed when taking a turn to the right. Never cut across the nearest corner in doing this. Go nearly across the side road so as to turn into it on your proper side thus (Fig. 6).

If these simple matters are borne in mind, a cyclist may go many years without even the risk of an accident. Another thing to remember, is never on any account to lose control of your machine when descending a hill you do not know, if the bottom of it cannot be seen. Though to "fly" a hill is the height of enjoyment, safety demands that the end of the spin should be visible, or that you should know your ground thoroughly.

In the choice of a machine, remember it is very essential to have a cycle well suited to the rider. Cyclists of experience get to know their own requirements exactly and can suit their physical peculiarities, but more often than not the beginner is entirely in the hands of the cycle agent. Hence we so often see a slight, frail woman struggling along with a great, heavy unwieldy machine altogether beyond her strength, or on the other hand a heavy woman who is obviously under-mounted. For riders who are of moderate height or even a little over I believe in 26-inch wheels, but tall women should have 28-inch wheels fitted to their machines, to look proportionate to the extra high frame necessary. In the latter case everything else should be also larger. The 26-inch wheels look well for all but very tall or stout riders. The usual height of frame is about 21 inches measured from the top of the frame—the part where the seat pillar is fixed in—to the centre of the bracket axle (Fig. 7). This will accommodate riders whose length of leg-reach is up to 32 inches or 33 inches. It is better on the whole to have the frame too short than too long. It is more rigid if short, and a little seat pillar standing out will not detract greatly from the appearance. Always ascertain that there is a margin of at least six inches between the height of the seat pillar, when down at the lowest point, and when raised to the fullest height at which it can be safely fixed. Exactly the same should apply to the stem of the handle bars, as, if the saddle is raised the handles should be raised to a corresponding degree, otherwise the rider will be in a stooping position. The exact position of the handles depends a great deal on the length of arm and length of body of the rider, but in the ordinary way the lowest part of the handles should be at least two inches above the saddle (see Fig. 7), as it is above all things necessary that the rider shall not have to stoop forward when riding. On the other hand, the handles must not be higher than is necessary for a comfortable grasp, otherwise the effect will be extremely ungraceful. As the rider sits in the saddle with her arms extended straight downward, she should be able to swing them forward exactly into the riding position, without bending the elbow in any appreciable degree.

In purchasing a cycle the most important points for the rider to consider are:

1. Rigidity of frame.

2. Weight.

3. Width of tread.

4. Height of pedal from the ground.

Rigidity of frame means speed, i.e., ease of propulsion. If the frame is badly designed it will yield sideways to the rider's pressure, and much of the power which would be otherwise used to send it forward will be wasted. If you grasp the steering head and the down tube of a cycle (see Fig. 7) and endeavour to twist the frame, you can ascertain whether it is rigid or not. It should not be possible to force these two points towards each other at all, or to pull them sideways out of line with each other. If you can, there will be no chance of riding up a steep incline on that machine! There is another essential matter on which the purchaser can protect herself. This is to see that the cycle is properly stayed in various parts of the frame. These "stays" bind the whole frame firmly together and prevent "give" or yielding, when pressure is applied on the pedals. In addition to the "stays" in the front portion of frame (examples of which are shown in Fig. 7) there should be a stay between the two back legs, just above the back wheel.

If you are purchasing a machine with an acknowledged reputation, and made by a maker of standing, it can safely be assumed that these matters have been provided for, as they would only be omitted on the score of cheapness. Never on any account be persuaded to ride a machine which is not fully guaranteed by a well-known firm. There are so many points on which a cycle may be faulty, and the only safeguard to the rider is that the work shall have been carried out in the most careful and conscientious fashion throughout. Therefore I would repeat never trust yourself on any but a machine by a good maker. Far better buy even a good second-hand cycle than a "cheap" new one, for the latter may cause constant trouble, to say nothing of the possibility of serious accident.

The weight of an ordinary good-class ladies' machine should not be over 30-lbs. It is possible to obtain them fully equipped at about 28-lbs., but to get them at this or less either the weight of the tyres, etc., have to be very much reduced, or the fittings are not efficient. If the tyres are very thin and light they will be constantly puncturing. The gear case too should be of sufficient stability, and the same remark applies to the dress-guards and mud-guards; in fact it is in the fittings that the weight of a cycle is found, the actual frame not weighing more than 5-lbs. as a rule. This is the reason why American machines are lighter than English, the simple explanation being that the former are fitted with the flimsiest of chain covers, mud-guard, brake work, etc., whilst the English-made cycle is properly equipped for use in all weathers.

The width of "tread" is important, as both for comfort and speed and also on the score of appearance, the rider's feet should not be wider apart than is absolutely necessary. A narrow "tread" is the sign of a well designed machine. To measure this, the distance should be ascertained between the inside faces of the two cranks, and this distance should not be above five inches.

The height of the pedals from the ground is a point which is never overlooked by a really good firm of cycle makers. It is desirable to get the pedals as near to the ground as possible for comfort in mounting and for ease of propulsion; but there is a limit, as if too low, the pedal would be likely to catch the ground when the machine leans over on a sharp corner. The consequence of this would be disastrous to the rider. There is also the lesser danger of the pedal striking a stone if too near the ground. The usual distance is about ten or ten-and-a-half inches from the centre of bracket-axle to the ground.

Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere, from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free circulation. Having said this, little more remains to add, as each rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue, I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to give warmth.

A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right length, she will not look well in motion.

The great difficulty is of course to get the "hang" right beside the saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well. This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is made in mounting.

The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot. At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as only so can you tell how it will really answer.

For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I have found nothing better than to pass the feet through a strap of ¼-inch elastic, about nine inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.

As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is in my opinion the most suitable.

For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion through any but the stillest of atmospheres.

As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.

An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health, who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before putting on a complete set of dry underclothing. It is by standing about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally prevent you from suffering any ill effects.

You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth, and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts, it will brighten them considerably. When it is known that the machine will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat, the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very often a little attention to them will put matters right. As there are so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily. In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end is unscrewed—after the dust cap is taken off—the whole mechanism of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap, attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.

If the rider does not object to a little trouble, a puncture can be repaired at home, though the chief objection to the operation is the dirty state in which it is apt to get the operator, unless indeed the tyres are thoroughly cleaned first. When you buy a machine, the exact details are given with each particular class of tyre, and general instructions for repairing will be found included in the repair-outfit, which can be purchased for about sixpence. This tyre-outfit consists of a small quantity of solution—which be careful not to get on the fingers—some rubber patches, and French chalk. When the inner tube has been taken off, the valve should be refitted to it, and the tubes inflated. Then pass the tube through water, using a shallow bowl for the purpose. From each spot where there is a puncture, little air bubbles will come out whilst the tube is under water. Mark these with a pencil, let the air out—by the valve—and dry the tube. Then with a piece of glass paper, clean the tube from sulphur—till the natural dark colour of the rubber appears—where the puncture is, say for a space as large as a sixpence. Put some solution thinly on the rubber patch, let it nearly dry, and then press it down on the tube, on the spot cleaned from sulphur, and hold it there for a minute or two. The puncture of course will be in the centre of this spot if you have managed properly. A little French chalk dusted over the patch will prevent any solution there may be round the patch, from sticking to the outer cover when the tyre is put together again.

With regard to the general adjustment of a cycle, it is most essential that all the bearing parts should be in proper order, as any one of them will make a very great difference in labour to the rider. A few brief notes on the principal parts will enable the rider to ascertain if her mount is in proper condition to do justice to her own riding powers. First the chain. This should be oiled occasionally in its whole length, so that each joint is properly lubricated. When it has been oiled along the top half, the wheels should be revolved sufficiently to bring the other half on top for oiling. The chain must not be too tight, or the machine will be hard to drive, neither must it be too loose, or accidents will occur. The state of the chain can be ascertained by taking hold of one pedal, whilst the machine is at rest with its weight on the ground. The pedal and crank should just show the slightest perceptible movement, without moving the machine, if the chain is in good order. The pedals should revolve twenty or thirty times at least, when given a good sharp spin with the hand, and there should be no perceptible shake in them. The steering is a very important point, as if this is stiff it will increase the labour in riding. If the front wheel is lifted from the ground, its own weight should make it drop over to one side or the other, which ever way the machine lies, else the steering is too stiff for easy riding. There should be no shake whatever in the steering, the front wheel, when tested, should be immoveable from the rest of the machine, either backwards or forwards. All the bearings require a moderate oiling for about every fifty miles you ride. Olive or other clear oil is used for lubricating the bearings, and on no account must paraffin or a similar oil be used, except for cleaning the bearings out. Most cycle depÔts supply a suitable oil for lubricating. Once or twice in the year it is advisable to run paraffin through the bearings, but care must be taken to drain it all out afterwards, and the bearings should then be oiled with proper lubricant. Sperm or colza oil is good for burning in the lamp. Add a small piece of camphor to this to give a clearer light. A little paraffin may be put on the top of the wick at the burner, to make the lamp light easily, but if this is added to the burning oil, the lamp will smoke, and be liable to jolt out over rough places. If the machine is properly adjusted and well oiled, the wheels should—after being revolved—swing back and forth once or twice with their own weight. At the same time, no "shake" should be discernible sideways, but the wheels should appear to be a rigid part of the machine.

Lillian J. Hills.

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