RIPON

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Dedication: St. Peter and St. Wilfrid. Formerly a Collegiate Church served by Augustinian Canons.

Special features: Nave; St. Wilfrid’s Needle; Rood-Screen; East Window; Choir-Stalls.

Ripon did not become a cathedral until 1836. From the Eighth Century until that date it was in the diocese of York, and the Archbishop of York, having his throne in the choir, gave the church great importance.

Ripon monastery was established in the Seventh Century. The monks came from Melrose Abbey on the Tweed and represented the Christianity that was introduced into the north by way of Ireland through St. Columba’s missionaries. Their great abbot was Wilfrid, who became Bishop of Northumbria. In 669 he began a stone monastery, on the site, in all probability, of the earlier one; and this was dedicated in 670 to St. Peter. Wilfrid died in 709 and was buried in his church at Ripon. Miracles took place at his tomb, which drew such large crowds that the monks tried to restrain them. In 948, when Eadred was quelling a rebellion in Northumbria, “was that famed minster burned at Ripon which St. Wilfrid built.”

The next date of interest is the rebuilding of the church by Roger de Pont l’ÉvÊque (1154-1181), the great rival of Thomas À Becket. It was a cruciform edifice; its nave was without aisles. Of this, the two transepts, half of the central tower, and portions of the nave and choir remain. Ripon is, therefore, one of the most important examples extant of the transition from Norman to Early English.

Archbishop Walter de Gray (1216-1255) translated the relics of St. Wilfrid to a new shrine in 1224.

The west front with its two towers was built about this time; and the eastern part of the choir was rebuilt in the Decorated style by Archbishop John Romanus (1286-1296).

The church was used as a refuge and fortress by the people of Ripon when the Scots invaded it in 1317. Many necessary repairs were made under Archbishop de Melton (1317-1340). The central tower fell in 1450 and had to be rebuilt; also the east side of the south transept and the south side of the choir. The present rood-screen and canopied stalls were erected at the end of the Fifteenth Century. Then the nave was rebuilt; but progress was delayed by the outbreak of a plague in 1506. St. Wilfrid’s Shrine was demolished by Henry VIII. In 1593 the central spire was injured by lightning. During the Civil Wars the Parliamentary soldiers shattered the splendid glass of the east window and did other damage. In 1660 the central spire fell and injured some of the canopies of the choir-stalls; and, therefore, in 1664, the western spires were removed for fear that they might fall also. Many repairs were made in 1829. Restorations on a large scale were undertaken by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1862-1870.

The West Front is Early English. It has two square towers and a central gable. String-courses divide the faÇade into four stages. In the first are three doorways adorned with gables and crosses. The central door, which is larger than the others, consists of five orders and five triple shafts. The two others have three orders and three shafts. Some of the mouldings are filled with the dog-tooth ornament. All three doors open into the nave. Between the gables spouts issue from the heads of animals. Above the doors comes a row of five lancet windows and above them a group of three small lancets placed very high. The towers are ornamented with arcades and lancets, buttresses, parapets and pinnacles. The ten bells hang in the south tower.

The Central Tower is interesting because it is composed of two styles of architecture. On the north and west sides it is Twelfth Century and on the two others Perpendicular. The windows on all sides are round-headed. The dog-tooth ornament appears in the moulding. Ripon, though finely proportioned, is somewhat cold and severe in general appearance. The north transept with its round-headed windows and its interesting doorway, with a rather curious inner arch and capitals of carved foliage, is a good example of the Twelfth Century. The south side of the nave is preferred to the north side by critics. In the south transept we have Archbishop Roger’s work again. The doorway is elaborate. The foliage on the capitals of the columns approaches the Early English style. The lintel is square. The south side of the choir is partly hidden by the Chapter-House with the Lady-Loft above. The buttresses that follow are of the Twelfth Century. The three western bays are Perpendicular; the others, Decorated. The two flying-buttresses are like those on the north side. Gargoyles appear at intervals along the string of the roof. The east end is Decorated. Its chief feature is the splendid window, of which the tracery alone remains.

Entering the west doorway we look upon one of the great naves of the Perpendicular period, ranking next in size after York, Winchester, Chichester and after St. Paul’s in width.

“Among very late Gothic buildings there are few indeed which are of so good a quality as this nave of Ripon, which, like the late church towers of Somerset, shows that MediÆval art took long to die out in regions remote from London. It is, indeed, the architecture of the days of Agincourt rather than of the eve of the English Renaissance. The pillars are characteristic of the Perpendicular style, their section being a square with a semicircle projecting from each side, and the corners hollowed. Their bases have complex plinths of considerable height and are polygonal, but follow roughly the form of the pillar, and the mouldings, as usual in this style, overhang the plinth. The capitals, with small mouldings and many angles, are of somewhat the same form as the bases. On the westernmost complete pillar of the north arcade are two shields, charged respectively with the arms of Ripon (a horn) and of Pigott of Clotherholme. The arches, instead of being of that depressed form which is so common in late work, are very beautifully proportioned, and their mouldings are bold, numerous and well-cut. There is no triforium; but a passage, at a slightly lower level than in Archbishop Roger’s bays, runs below the great clerestory windows, which were once, no doubt, gorgeous with stained glass. Their arches are moulded, but the splay is left plain. The roof-shafts, which are in clusters of three and have fillets upon them, spring from semi-octagonal corbels, and where each cluster passes the string-course there is an angel holding a shield. A sign of decadence may be found, perhaps, in the way in which the hood-moulds of the windows intersect with these shafts. Though the two sides of the nave are not quite of the same date, they are almost alike, but for some slight differences in the capitals, the arch-mouldings, and the hollows on the pillars; the builders feeling, doubtless, that any marked variation would mar the general perspective—a consideration which, of course, could not bind them in designing the north aisle. The original Perpendicular roof may have resembled that which now covers the transepts. About 1829 Blore put up an almost flat ceiling of deal. The present oaken vault, by Sir Gilbert Scott, was copied from that of the transepts of York Minster, and is adapted to the old roof-shafts, between which have been added angel corbels of wood. As the ribs intersect near their springing, they weave a network over the whole vault, and the carved bosses at the intersections amount to 107. A passing notice is merited by the pulpit, which is Jacobean.”—(C. H.)

The two great tower arches under the west towers are Early English; those of the central tower are round. Their great piers are composed of clusters of engaged shafts. Massive arches also mark the opening of each aisle of the nave into the transept. In the south aisle stands a blue marble Font, and near it an older one, probably of the Twelfth Century. Tradition says that the altar-tomb here is that of an Irish prince who brought home from Palestine a tame lion. On the bas-relief a lion, a kneeling man and two birds are represented, which gives cause for the story. The work is presumably of the Fourteenth Century. Above the font we can see the only MediÆval glass in the Cathedral—fragments of Fourteenth Century work left from the wreckage of the Puritan soldiers. St. Peter, St. Paul and St. Andrew will easily be recognized. There is also a shield bearing the English arms in this window. In the south wall of the nave there is a fine Piscina dating from the Twelfth Century. At this point we shall have to interrupt our walk through the Cathedral to examine St. Wilfrid’s Needle, the popular name for the Saxon Crypt.

“From a trap-door in the pavement below the piscina a flight of twelve steps winds down into a flat-roofed and descending passage 2? feet wide and slightly over 6 feet high, which, running a few feet northwards and bending at right angles round the south-west tower pier, extends eastward for about 10 yards, with a descent of one step near the end, and terminates in a blank wall. There is a square-headed niche at the turn and a round-headed niche at the end, both meant, doubtless, to hold lights. Three feet from the end a round-headed doorway, 2 feet wide and over 6 feet high, opens northwards with a descent of two more steps, into a barrel-vaulted chamber, 11 feet 5 inches long from east to west, 7 feet 7 inches wide and 9 feet 10 inches high. In the north wall of this chamber, and approached by three wide steps, is the celebrated St. Wilfrid’s Needle, a round-headed aperture pierced through into a passage that runs behind. This aperture was connected with one of those superstitions that so often flourished before the Reformation in notable centres of religion, and ability to pass through it, or ‘thread the needle,’ was regarded as a test of female chastity; but it was, of course, in the later middle ages that this superstition arose, and the ‘needle’ (or rather needle’s eye) is evidently only one of the original niches with the back knocked out. Of these niches (which again were doubtless for lights) there are four in the chamber besides the ‘needle,’—one in each wall,—and, like the niche at the end of the passage of entrance, they all have semicircular heads, each cut in a single stone. That in the west wall has a hole or cup at the bottom, probably to hold oil in which a wick might float, while the others (except the ‘needle’) have a sort of funnel at the top, doubtless to catch the soot from lamps.”—(C. H.)

The North Transept is a fine specimen of the transitional from Norman to Early English, and is almost in its original condition. It is 34 feet wide, or 52 feet including the aisle. Here we find a stone pulpit of the Perpendicular period, its five


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Ripon: Nave, east


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Ripon: Choir, east

sides embellished with panelling. At the north wall was probably situated the Markenfield Chantry; for the aisle is still called by this name. Two family tombs remain.

The South Transept is slightly narrower than the north. Parts of it were altered in the Perpendicular period. In the aisle we find the Mallory Chapel, where members of the Studley family are buried. The northern bay is filled by a stone stairway, at the top of which are two doors. One opens into a chamber containing the bellows of the organ and the other into the Lady-Loft, or Library. This stairway was erected by Sir Gilbert Scott to replace an older one.

The elegant Rood Screen is of the Fifteenth Century. It contains a central doorway surmounted by a crocketed ogee hood, beneath which is a mutilated carving of The Trinity. Four large niches stand on either side of the door and a row of twenty-four smaller ones runs above these. Cinquefoils and feathered cusps decorate the whole screen, which is twelve feet thick. In the passage through it a door on the right opens into a winding staircase to the loft above and one on the left into a deep pit.

We pass on to the Choir. This is of three styles: the first three bays on the north side are Twelfth Century; the first three on the south side, Perpendicular; and the last three on both sides, Decorated. The triforium windows are filled with glass.

“The great window in the central compartment is one of the finest examples of Geometrical tracery, if not one of the largest windows, in England. It is over 50 feet high, is 25 feet wide, and has seven lights. Of these the three at either end are comprised under a sub-arch, in the head of which are three cinquefoiled circles, while the central light of the seven is surmounted by an arch, not so high as its neighbours, but impaling upon its acute point a huge circle which fills the head of the window and contains six trefoils radiating from its centre. The arch of this superb window is rather acutely pointed and richly moulded, and has two very slender shafts worked on the stones of either jamb, with foliage on their capitals.

“The huge window, which is not splayed, has a deep rear-vault bounded by a massive rib, whose outer edge rests on slender engaged shafts with foliage on their capitals, while the inner edge ends in bunches of foliage. Between this rib and the tracery is another rib springing on the north side from a bunch of foliage and on the south from a grotesque corbel. The inner arch has slender shafts, and so has the moulding next to the tracery, but in the latter case the capitals are plain. Few acts of vandalism are more to be regretted, probably, than the destruction in 1643 of the magnificent Fourteenth Century glass which once occupied this window. The present very poor glass, by Wailes of Newcastle, commemorates the revival of the See of Ripon in 1863.

“Over the window may be seen the mark of one of the earlier roofs. The choir is thought to have received a groined vault of oak after the rebuilding of the east end, but this vault was probably renewed more than once, especially after the accident to the tower about 1450, and the fall of the spire in 1660. Sir Gilbert Scott found a vault of lath and plaster (probably the work of Blore) for which he substituted the present roof, a groined wooden vault, admirable in its lofty pitch and judicious colouring. Its chief feature, however, is the splendid bosses along the ridge, which are survivals from either the Decorated or a subsequent Perpendicular vault. In some of these bosses the figures are five feet long.”—(C. H.)

The Choir-Stalls are splendid specimens of the Fifteenth Century, with very ornate canopies of tabernacle-work bristling with spires and pinnacles.

“There are ribbed vaults under the canopies, and upon the pendants in front are hovering angels. The canopies on the south side were wrecked by the fall of the spire in 1660, and those over the eight easternmost stalls were then reconstructed in the ‘Jacobean’ style with a gallery above, while of the canopies now over the other nine, eight are said to have been brought across from the eastern end of the north range, where more Jacobean canopies were erected in their place. Sir Gilbert Scott removed all this Seventeenth Century work and set up reproductions of the Fifteenth Century design. Thus the eight easternmost canopies on either side are modern. The misereres and arms of the stalls are exquisitely carved.

“The subjects upon the former are as follows, beginning from the archway in the screen:—

North side:—(1) (Canon in Residence) lion attacked by dogs; (2) dragon attacked by dogs; (3) angel with shield; (4) dragon and birds; (5) hart’s-tongue ferns; (6) conventional flowers; (7) ape attacked by lion; (8) vine; (9) birds pecking fruit; (10) antelopes; (11) fox preaching to goose and cock; (12) fox running off with geese; (13) fox caught by dogs; (14) dragons fighting; (15) fruit and flowers issuing from inverted head; (16) man holding club with oak leaves and acorns; (17) (Mayor’s Stall) griffin catching rabbit.

South side:—(1) (Dean) angel with book; (2) angel with shield bearing date 1489; (3) lion versus griffin; (4) griffin devouring a human leg; (5) owl; (6) mermaid with mirror and hair-brush; (7) two pigs dancing to bagpipe played by a third; (8) Jonah thrown to the whale; (9) man wheeling another who holds a reed and a bag; (10) fox caught carrying off goose by dog and by woman with distaff; (11) winged animal; (12) hart, gorged and chained; (13) pelican feeding young; (14) Jonah emerging from the whale; (15) Samson carrying the gates; (16) head (modern); (17) (Bishop’s Throne) Caleb and Joshua carrying the grapes and watched by Anakim.

“Most of these misereres have exquisite conventional flowers (especially roses) cut upon them in addition to the figure-subjects. The desks in front of the stalls have rich finials, and their panelled fronts form the backs of a lower tier of seats, the arms of which are supported each on a square shaft set diamondwise. In front of these lower seats the desks again have carved finials and panelled fronts and on those parallel with the Rood-Screen the tracery is distinctly Flamboyant. The finial before the stall of the Canon in Residence has a griffin attached to it and that in front of the Dean’s stall a lion. Before both these stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are richly carved. The Bishop’s throne and Mayor’s stall have each a canopied niche on the exterior toward the east, and two small apertures in the east side to enable the occupant to see the altar, and in front of these two stalls the ends of the two tiers of desks are again richly carved. The Mayor’s stall is wider than the others, and attached to the finial in front is a grotesque ape, beneath which the supporting shaft is of open work. The end of this desk displays a shield charged with two keys in saltire, for the see of York.

“The Bishop’s throne was originally occupied by the Archbishops of York. The Jacobean canopy, which succeeded that of the Fifteenth Century, comprised the space of two stalls, as did also the modern structure by which it was itself succeeded and which is now in the Consistory Court. The present canopy resembles those of the other stalls but is higher and more elaborate. Upon the back of the throne inside is a small mitre. The finial in front consists of an elephant carrying a man in his trunk, and bearing on his back a castle filled with armed soldiery, and in front of the elephant is a centaur (renewed), the shaft under which is again of open-work. The end of this desk displays a large mitre above a shield charged with the three stars of St. Wilfrid and supported by two angels, between whom is a scroll with the date of 1494.”

The altar stands against the east wall of the presbytery. The Reredos is a restoration of the original Decorated one. The Sedilia and a Piscina are placed on the south side.

Sir Gilbert Scott considered them Late Decorated work, but they have rather the appearance of Late Perpendicular.

Some historians think that the shrine of St. Wilfrid stood in the east end of the north-choir-aisle. The remains were kept in a superb coffer, which was carried in processions.

Passing down the south-choir-aisle from the east we first come to the vestry; then to the Chapter-House; and then to the Mallory Chapel. A round-headed door in the west wall of the Chapter-House opens upon a stairway that leads into another Crypt that belonged to Norman times.

The Chapter-House is of the Twelfth Century. Above it is a Lady-Chapel, called here the Lady-Loft. It is unusual to find a Lady-Chapel on the south side of the Choir and on an upper floor. It dates from about the middle of the Fifteenth Century. It is now used as a Library.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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