Dedication: St. Peter. A Church served by Secular Canons. Special features: Screen on west front; Misereres; Bishop’s Throne; Minstrels’ Gallery; Lady-Chapel; East Window. “As the last cathedral church we visited, namely Salisbury, may be taken as the most complete example of Early English work, so Exeter in its present state is the best specimen of the Decorated style that is to be met with in England. For though, unlike Salisbury, it was not built afresh from the ground, yet under Bishops Quivil, Bitton, Stapledon and Grandisson, between the years 1280 and 1369, the fabric was so entirely remodelled that it may be regarded as practically a new building; and since the work of remodelling began about the time that the Early English style was passing into the Decorated, and was completed before the time when the Perpendicular had superseded the Decorated, it naturally is characterised by the features of that style which flourished during the first half of the Fourteenth Century. Much indeed of the work found at Exeter is the very finest that the Fourteenth Century produced.”—(T. P.) As early as the reign of Athelstan a Benedictine monastery, dedicated to St. Peter, existed at Crediton and was much injured by the Northmen in the Tenth and Eleventh Centuries. When the Sees for Devon and Cornwall were removed from Crediton to Exeter in 1050, the old church of St. Peter was chosen for the new Cathedral. Of the Saxon church, however, nothing remains. William Warelwast (1107-1136), the third bishop after the Conquest, began the new church about 1112, in the “marvellous and sumptuous” architecture of the Many of the ancient decorations and arrangements were either removed, or defaced, by Queen Elizabeth’s “visitors,” who, in 1559, were appointed to compel the general observance of the Protestant formularies. During the Commonwealth the Cathedral was divided into two portions by a brick wall so that an Independent preacher named Stuckeley, one of Cromwell’s chaplains, could preach in “West Peter’s,” and a Presbyterian, named Ford, in the Choir, or “East Peter’s,” as the Puritans now named these portions of the Cathedral. The finest view is perhaps from Waddlesdown, about four miles from Exeter. Taking a view of the exterior, “The visitor should especially remark the Norman towers, the cresting of the roof, the flying-buttresses and the north porch. The Norman towers, in connection with the long unbroken roof, should perhaps be regarded as constituting the specialty of Exeter. At all events, the Many people are at first disappointed with their first view of the West Front and more particularly of the Screen with its noble array of statues. The impression that it produces has been well described by W. D. Howells, who writes on his visit to Exeter: “To the first glance it is all a soft gray blur of age-worn carving, in which no point or angle seems to have failed of the touch which has blent all archaic sanctities and royalties of the glorious screen in a dim sumptuous harmony of figures and faces.” Now let us examine it more in detail. “The west front, usually regarded as the latest work of Bishop Grandisson, who died in 1369, is of very high “The two statues with shields of arms in niches above the upper row are certainly those of Athelstan and Edward the Confessor, the Saxon king who expelled the Britons from Exeter, and the founder of the existing bishopric. In all these figures the general arrangement of the hair as well as the fashion of the crowns and of the armour, are those of the reign of Edward III., in which the work was probably completed. “The platform above the screen no doubt served, as in many foreign cathedrals, as a station from which the church minstrels and choristers might duly welcome distinguished persons on their arrival; and from which the bishop might bestow his benediction on the people. The three doorways are much enriched. Round that in the centre, within the porch, is a moulding of carved foliage which deserves notice. On the central boss of the groining is a representation of the Crucifixion. The recess within the south doorway contains two sculptures, The Appearance of the Angel to Joseph in a Dream and The Adoration of the Shepherds. Both, like the figures on the screen, have suffered not a little from time, and the assaults of Cromwell’s Puritans.”—(R. J. K.) Exeter is distinguished among English cathedrals in not having a central tower. This gives the exterior a unique appearance and the interior gains by the absence of tower piers to block the view. Exeter has, therefore, the most open and impressive vista of any English cathedral. The screen being low, the whole design is immediately comprehended. It has been compared to the Cathedral of Bourges. In our walks through Exeter it may be well to remember that Quivil’s architect determined to see what he could do with lowness and breadth. “Everything should be broad and low, outside as well as inside. Look at the east end of the choir—its two arches broad and low; above it the great window—broad and low. Nowhere but at Exeter do you find these squat windows with their truncated jambs; here they are everywhere—in the aisles, in the clerestory, in choir, chapels, transepts and nave; even in the great window of the western front: broad and low windows everywhere. Still more original is the external realisation of the design; central tower and spire, western towers and spires, alike are absent. Long and low, massive and stable stretches out uninterruptedly the long horizontal line of nave and choir. Breadth gives in itself the satisfactory feeling of massiveness, steadfastness and solidity; and this is just what is wanting in the all-too aËrial work of Salisbury and Beauvais; vaulted roofs at a dizzy height resting on unsubstantial supports and sheets of glass. But the Exeter architect has emphasised this satisfactory feeling of stability still further. The window tracery is heavy and strong; the vault is barred all over with massive ribs; in the piers there are no pretty, fragile, detached shafts; the massive clustered columns look as if they were designed, as they were, to carry the weight of a Norman wall.”—(F. B.) The heaviness was counteracted by transparency: the arrangement of the windows flood the Cathe “Another distinctive feature in Exeter as in Salisbury, is that the architect produces his effect mainly by architectural means—is not driven to rely on sculpture. All the principal capitals have mouldings not foliage. Only in the great corbels of the vaulting shafts and in the bosses of the vault does he permit himself foliage and sculpture. Wonderful carving it is; the finest work of the best period, when the naturalistic treatment of foliage was fresh and young. Very remarkable these corbels are, with their life-like treatment of vine and grape, oak and acorn, hazel leaf and nut. Unfortunately the corbels, and still more the bosses, are so high up that their lovely detail is thrown away; and they are out of scale. “And the patterns of the window tracery are wonderfully diverse. It is not, as in Lichfield nave or King’s College Chapel, where every window is like its neighbour; when you have seen one, you have seen all. Here, all down each side of the church every window differs. In dimensions, in general character, they agree; in details they differ; each window is a fresh delight; we have, what even in Gothic architecture we rarely get—diversity within simplicity.”—(F. B.) First we examine the splendid Nave. “The first view of the NAVE is rich and striking. Its present length is 140 feet. The view looking east is intercepted by the organ, which is placed above the screen at the entrance to the choir; but the general impression, notwithstanding a want of height, is that of great richness and beauty. The roof especially, springing from slender vaulting shafts, studded with delicately carved and varied bosses, and extending unbroken to the east end of the choir, is exceeded in grace and lightness by no other of the same date in the kingdom and by few on the Continent. The carved bosses, all of which retain traces of colour, represent foliage, animals (near the centre of the nave is a sow with a litter of pigs), grotesque figures, heraldic shields, subjects from early ‘bestiaries’ and “The corbels between the arches, which support the vaulting shafts of the roof, are, perhaps, peculiar to this cathedral, and should be especially noticed. They are wrought into figures, twisted branches and long sprays of foliage, and afford excellent examples of the very best period of naturalism. Every leaf is varied and the character of the different kinds (here for the most part oak and vine) is admirably retained. The second corbel on the south side of the nave exhibits the Virgin treading on an evil spirit, and carrying the Divine Infant. Above is her coronation. The easternmost nave-corbels display on the north side Moses with his hands supported by Aaron and Hur; and on the south the risen Saviour, with cross and banner. The brackets at the foot of these corbels are crowned heads; and possibly represent Edward I. and Edward II., the first beardless as usual, the other more defaced. The second corbel on the north side represents St. Cecilia, with a somewhat grotesque angel listening to her music. “A blind arcade, taking the place of the triforium, deeply recessed and arranged in groups of four arches under each bay, runs above the nave arches; and in the central bay on the north side projects the Minstrels’ Gallery, an arrangement for the accommodation of musicians on high festivals, which occur in this perfection nowhere else in England. There are, indeed, other examples at Wells and at Winchester, but of far less interest and importance. Each of the twelve niches into which its front is divided contains the figure of a winged angel playing on a musical instrument and surmounted by a rich “The windows of the nave, all of the best and purest (geometrical) Decorated, are said to exhibit a greater variety of tracery than can be found in any other building in the kingdom. They are arranged in pairs, on opposite sides of the cathedral; so that no two side by side will be found to resemble each other. The varied and graceful patterns of the lead-work should also be noticed. The stained glass in the great west window is, for the most part, modern and worthless (it dates from 1766) injuring the beauty of the window itself by its entire want of harmony and meaning. The ruby glass in this window is said to be some of the latest that was manufactured in England before M. Bontemps revived the art.”—(R. J. K.) Walking back to the west end, we stop to examine the Chantry of St. Radegunde, “constructed in the thickness of the screen by Bishop Grandisson for the place of his own sepulture. His tomb formerly existed here, but it was destroyed by Elizabeth’s visitors and the high-born prelate’s ashes scattered ‘no man knoweth where.’”—(R. J. K.) Opening from the first bay of the Nave is the small Chapel of St. Edmund, of earlier date than the Nave. In the fifth bay, on the same side, is the North Porch. In the last bay on the south side is an Early English doorway that formerly opened into the cloisters; and between the first two but The Pulpit dates from 1684. The Transepts, one bay each, occupy the space under the towers. East of the North transept is the Chapel of St. Paul, built by Quivil and now used as a vestry. In the corner we find the tomb and chantry of Sylke, a sub-chanter, who founded this chantry in 1485 and was buried in it in 1508. His effigy lies here. Against the east wall are memorials to the soldiers of the 20th, or East Devon Regiment who fell in the Crimean War. Here is also the famous clock which has two dials. It is supposed to date from the reign of Edward III. A door below the clock opens to the stairs into the North tower, in which is hung the Great, or Peter Bell, the second largest bell in England. It weighs 12,500 pounds. “The Peter bell was crazed on Nov. 5, 1611, most probably from a too violent ringing in commemoration of the Gunpower Plot, and was recast in 1676. Its diameter at the mouth is 6 feet 3 inches; its height nearly 4 feet 8 inches. It is, of course, never rung, but the hours are struck on it by an enormous hammer. The visitor who happens to be in the tower at the time of striking will experience a new sensation,—the humming of the great mass of metal lingers for many minutes among the huge beams and rafters. A superb view of the city surrounded by trees and gardens, of the river and of its junction with the sea at Exmouth, is obtained from the top of the tower, the upper part of which (of Perpendicular character) was raised and adapted by Bishop Courtenay for the reception of Great Peter, which he brought from Llandaff.”—(R. J. K.) The South Transept is a counterpart of the north, and the Chapel of St. John the Baptist (also Quivil’s work) corresponds with St. Paul’s opposite. In the Tower are eleven bells, ten of which are rung in peal. They date from the Seventeenth Century. Between this Transept and the Chapter-House lies the Chapel of the Holy Ghost, formerly used as a baptistery. It is Norman. The Chapter-House, opening from what is still called the Cloisters (although the cloisters were demolished during Cromwell’s rule), was begun in the Thirteenth Century and finished in the Fifteenth. When Bishop Grandisson dedicated the High Altar, Dec. 18, 1328, he wrote to the Pope that the Cathedral, then half finished, would be superior in its kind to any church in France or England. “High as this praise was, the beauty of the vaulted roof and the extreme grace of the details are proofs that it was scarcely exaggerated. The roof bosses and corbels are of the same character as those in the nave; but the latter are even more admirable in design, and far more varied in foliage. Maple, oak, ash, the filbert with its clusters of nuts, and the vine with fruit and tendrils, could hardly be reproduced more faithfully. On the corbel above the organ-screen, on the north side, is a Coronation of the Virgin and on that beyond it a Virgin and Child with censing angels.”—(R. J. K.) The Choir, Decorated, is very fine: “We approach the choir, entered by a door in the beautiful screen supporting the organ. This was the old rood-screen, on which formerly stood the rood, or figure of our Lord on the Cross. It was erected in the Fourteenth Century. “The bosses of the vaulted roof are worthy of especial examination, so remarkable are they for the delicacy of the carved foliage. The choir has been carefully restored in recent years, and the stalls, pulpit and reredos are modern and were designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. Notice the old misereres, which are very remarkable and The miserere seats (Thirteenth Century) are curious and beautiful. They are probably the earliest in England. “They are fifty in number and their subjects are of the usual character,—foliage, grotesques, animals (among which is an elephant) and knights in combat, whose heater shields, flat helmets and early armour are especially noticeable. Remark, on the south side of the choir a mermaid and a merman holding some circular instrument between them, the elephant mentioned above and a knight sitting in a boat drawn by a swan, an illustration of the romance of the Chevalier au Cygne. On the north side a knight attacking a leopard, a monster on whose back is a saddle with stirrups, a minstrel with tabor and pipe, a knight thrusting his sword into a grotesque bird and a mermaid holding a fish. The Early English character of the foliage, as well as its graceful arrangement, should be noticed throughout.” “On the south side, the superb Bishop’s Throne towering almost to the roof. This was the gift of Bishop Bothe (1465-1478). It is said to have been taken down and hidden during Monmouth’s Rebellion.”—(R. J. K.) “The Bishop’s Throne (A.D. 1316), intended for his Lordship with a chaplain on either side; ‘a magnificent sheaf of carved oak, put together without a single nail, and rising to a height of 57 feet. The lightness of its ascend Of the high altar and reredos, perhaps the most magnificent in Europe, carved at the same period, not a fragment remains. The two most important tombs in the choir are those of Bishop Lacey, who died in 1455, and Walter de Stapledon, who was murdered in London in 1326. Lacey has but a plain slab at which many miracles are said to have been done. Bishop Stapledon lies under a Perpendicular canopy, a fine figure holding a crozier with his left hand and a book with his right. Under the canopy is a figure of the Saviour, and at its side the small figure of a king crowned and wearing a scarlet robe, supposed to be Edward II. Bishop Stapledon’s body was removed from London to Exeter Cathedral by From the choir two chapels open. On the north, St. Andrew’s, very early Decorated, is exactly like the opposite one, St. James’s. Beneath the latter is the ancient Crypt. Both chapels have chambers above them. Beyond the Choir, the ambulatory, or procession-path (Early Decorated), with Speke’s Chantry on the left or north and Bishop Oldham’s on the right or south, leads to the Lady Chapel. This was built by Quivil, and is remarkable for its beautiful foliage carvings, old reredos, graceful openings to the chantries on either side and magnificent east window. “Quivil first transformed the Lady-Chapel; to him are due the shafts, sedilia, double piscina, and the vaulting, the rib-mouldings of which are of earlier character than those of the choir; and the windows, which closely resemble those of Merton College, Oxford, which we know was commenced in 1277. In the centre of the Lady-Chapel Bishop Quivil is buried; he died in 1291. The chapels on either side may have been remodelled or partly remodelled by Bronescombe; but the east windows are later in style, and are Quivil’s. The piers hereabout are very interesting. Those of the Lady-Chapel looking into the side chapels are composed of four columns. The north-east and south-east piers of the choir have clusters of eight shafts instead of four; while in the pier between them the cluster of eight is developed into a cluster of sixteen columns. Finally notice that these piers are set diamond-wise, with four flat faces, and the angles to the north, west, south and east.”—(F. B.) In the centre of the pavement is the tombstone of Bishop Peter Quivil (died 1291), author of the present plan of the cathedral. Other effigies of bishops are interesting works of art, but those of Under the arches opening from the Lady-Chapel to the side chapels are tombs of Bishops Bronescomb and Stafford. Bishop Bronescomb’s effigy (1280), on the south side, is a fine piece of carving. Stafford’s opposite (1419) is of alabaster, and it is famous for the rich tabernacle-work above the head. We have been long attracted by the lovely East window. Now we can see the details. “The east window is early Perpendicular and was inserted by Bishop Brantingham about 1390. The stained glass with which it is filled is for the most part ancient and very fine. Much of it dates apparently from the first half of the Fourteenth Century (temp. Edward I. and II.) and was removed from the earlier window; the shields below are those of early bishops and benefactors; the figures of saints above, most of which are to be recognised by their emblems, deserve careful notice. Beginning with the lowest row, and at the left hand, are St. Margaret, St. Catherine, St. Mary Magdalene, St. Barbara, the Virgin and Child, St. Martin, St. Peter, St. Paul and St. Andrew. All these figures are under very rich and varied canopies. The first three and the last three are of the first period; the others of Brantingham’s time. In the middle row are St. Sidwell, or Sativola, believed to have been a British lady of noble birth, and contemporary with St. Winifred of Crediton (first half of the Eighth Century). Her legend asserts that she was beheaded by a mower at the instigation of her stepmother, who coveted her possessions, near a well outside the walls of Exeter. In the window St. Sativola appears In the north-choir-aisle is a curious tomb with a cross-legged effigy of a Fourteenth Century knight in armour with one esquire at his head and another holding a horse at his feet. This is supposed to be a memorial to Sir Richard de Stapledon, a brother of the Bishop. Returning as we came, we pass the Chantry of St. George, founded by Sir Thomas Speke in 1518. It is a mass of rich carving. The effigy of the founder lies within. Opposite is Bishop Oldham’s Chantry, also a mass of carving, where the owl in the panels refers to his name (the word old is pronounced owld in Lancashire, where the Bishop was born). The Bishop’s effigy lies in a niche in the south wall. “The Tudor work (1485-1519) is exceptional in importance. It includes the north entrance and other late portions of the western screen, two exquisite chapels both built by Bishop Oldham—his own chantry (St. Saviour’s) on the south side of the retro-choir, the Speke chantry (St. George’s) on the north—and in addition, Prior Sylke’s chantry on the north transept. All this At the extreme end of the east aisle is the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, probably the work of Bishop Bronescomb, who died in 1280. The east window, which resembles that of the opposite chapel of St. Gabriel, contains some stained glass of the Fifteenth Century. In this chapel a fine Elizabethan monument to Sir Gawain Carew, his wife and their nephew Sir Peter should be noticed. It dates from 1589. A staircase here leads to the roofs of the north-choir-aisle and of the ambulatory. The views of the Cathedral obtained here are very fine, especially of the flying-buttresses. St. Gabriel’s Chapel is similar to that of St. Mary Magdalene. Bishop Bronescomb’s patron saint was St. Gabriel the Archangel, whose feast was, in consequence, celebrated in Exeter Cathedral with the same solemnity as those of Christmas and Easter. A monument by Flaxman to General Simcoe, who died in 1806, having distinguished himself at the head of the Queen’s Rangers during the American war, and a splendid statue of Northcote, the painter, by Chantrey claim attention. Finally summing up the characteristics of this glorious fane: “Whatever else the student and lover of Gothic architecture omits, he must not omit to visit Exeter. He will find it fresh and different from anything he has seen before. Its unique plan, without central or western towers, |