CONTENTS

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CHAPTER I

Welcome to Ireland. Quaint People of Dublin. Packing the Motors. Departure. Tara Hill. Its History and Legends. Ruins at Trim. Tombs of the Druids. Battle-field of the Boyne.

1
CHAPTER II

Through Newry to Tanderagee Castle. Life in the Castle. Excursions to Armagh. Its History. The English in Armagh.

15
CHAPTER III

Through Newcastle to Downpatrick. Grave of St. Patrick. His Life and Work. The Old Grave Digger. Belfast and Ballygalley Bay. O'Halloran, the Outlaw.

25
CHAPTER IV

Ballycastle to the Causeway. Prosperity of Northern Ireland. Bundoran. Gay Life in County Mayo. Mantua House. Troubles in Roscommon. Wit of the People. Irish Girls. Emigration to America. Episode of the Horse. People of the Hills. Chats by the Wayside. Mallaranny.

34
CHAPTER V

The Island of Achill. Picturesque Scenery. Poverty of the People. "Keening" for the Dead. "The Gintleman who pays the Rint." Superstitious Legends.

53
CHAPTER VI

Monastery of Burrishoole. Queen Grace O'Malley and her Castle of Carrig-a-Hooly. Her Appearance at Elizabeth's Court. Dismissal of her Husband. Wild Scenery of the West Coast. The Ancient Tongue. Recess. Kylemore Castle. Crazy Biddy.

77
CHAPTER VII

The Ancient City of Galway. Quaint People. Curious Houses. Vile Hotel. Parsonstown. Wingfield House. Leap Castle, and its Ghosts. Ffranckfort Castle. Clonmacnoise. Holy Cross Abbey.

94
CHAPTER VIII

The Rock of Cashel. Its Cathedral, Palace, and Round Tower—Its History and Legends. Kilmalloch, its Ruins and History. The Desmonds. Horse Fair at Buttevant.

119
CHAPTER IX

Buttevant Barracks. Army Life. Mess-room Talk. Condition of the Barracks. Balleybeg Abbey. Old Church. Native Wedding. Kilcoman Castle, Spenser's Home. Doneraile Court. Mrs. Aldworth, the only Woman Freemason. Irish Wit. Regimental Plate. Departure from the Barracks.

132
CHAPTER X

Route to Killarney. Country Estates. Singular Customs. Picturesque Squalor. Peace of the Lakes. Innisfallen. The Legend of "Abbot Augustine." His Grave. "Dennis," the "Buttons," and his Family Affairs. Motors in the Gap of Dunloe.

161
CHAPTER XI

Kenmare and Herbert Demesnes. Old Woman at the Gates. Route to Glengariff. Bantry Bay. Boggeragh Mountains. Duishane Castle. The Carrig-a-pooka and its Legend. Macroom Castle and William Penn. Cork. Imperial Hotel. "Ticklesome" Car Boy. The Races and my Brown Hat. Route to Fermoy. Breakdown. Clonmel and its "Royal Irish." Ride to Waterford.

170
CHAPTER XII

Ancient Waterford. History. Reginald's Tower. Franciscan Friary. Dunbrody Abbey. New Ross. Bannow House. Its "Grey Lady." Legend of the Wood Pigeon. Ancient Garden. Buried City of Bannow. Dancing on the Tombs. Donkeys and Old Women. Tintern Abbey and its Occupants. Quaint Rooms and Quainter Stories. Its History and Legends. The Dead man on the Dinner Table. The Secret of the Walls. The Illuminated Parchment. The Sealed Library. Ruined Chapel. King Charles's Clothes. Is History False or True?

181
CHAPTER XIII

Return to Ireland. Illness. Conditions on the Great Liners. The Quay at Cork "of a Saturday Evening." En route once more. The Old Lady and the Donkey. Barracks at Fermoy. Killshening House, Abandoned Seat of the Roche Family. Fethard. Quaint Customs. The Man in the Coffin. "Curraghmore House" and its Great Kennels. Its Legends, Ghosts, and History. Lady Waterford. Oliver Cromwell at the Castle. The Marquis in the Dungeon.

209
CHAPTER XIV

Departure from Fethard. A Dead Horse and a Lawsuit. Approach to Dublin. Estate of Kilruddery. The Swan as a Fighter. Glendalough, its Ruins and History. Tom Moore and his Tree in Ovoca. Advantages of Motor Travel. Superstition of the Magpie. A Boy, a Cart, and a Black Sheep. The Goose and the Motor.

225
CHAPTER XV

The Lunatic. Insanity and its Causes in Ireland. The Usual Old Lady and Donkey. Sunshine and Shadow. Clonmines and its Seven Churches. The Crosses around the Holy Tree. Baginbun and the Landing of the English. The Bull of Pope Adrian. Letter of Pope Alexander. Protest of the Irish Princes. Legends. Death of Henry II.

243
CHAPTER XVI

Wild Times in Ireland. Landlord and Tenant. Evictions. Boycott at Bannow House. The Parson and the Legacy. The Priest and the Whipping. Burial in Cement. Departure from Bannow House. Kilkenny and her Cats. The Mountains of Wicklow. Powerscourt and a Week-End. Run to Dublin and an Encounter by the Way. The Irish Constabulary. Motor Runs in the Mountains. Lord H——.

260
CHAPTER XVII

Dublin. Derby Day and the Rush to the Curragh. An Irish Crowd. The Kildare Street Club and Club Life. Jigginstown House and its History. The Cowardice of a King. The Old Woman on the Tram Car. Parnell. The Grave of Daniel O'Connell.

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