3 Guide and Adviser

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Regional Map

National Parks
High-resolution Map

The map comes from the “Guide and Map, National Parks of the United States,” a brochure that may be purchased from the U. S. Government Printing Office. For information on roads leading to Devils Tower, see the next page.

Visiting the Park

Location

On the fringe of the Black Hills in northeastern Wyoming, northwest of Sundance, northeast of Moorcroft, and southwest of Hulett.

Area

545 hectares (1,347 acres).

Elevation

The park is about 1,290 meters (4,250 feet) above sea level. The Tower rises another 264 meters (867 feet) to the top.

Climate

Summer temperatures cover a wide range from daily highs of 29°C (83°F) to lows of 10°C (50°F). Winter temperatures plunge below freezing for long periods of time. Spring arrives usually sometime in April, but the temperature drops quickly at night and stays cold during the day if it’s cloudy. About the end of September, fall begins, and with it the golden color of changing cottonwood leaves along the Belle Fourche River.

Best times to visit

Spring is short in the Rocky Mountain West and can be a time of violent shifts in weather: summerlike days alternating with cold, always the possibility of late heavy snowfalls, and no inbetweens. These extremes seem to be tempered somewhat at Devils Tower, and the fun of watching deer can more than make up for any inconvenience due to the weather. Whitetail deer, followed by their spotted fawns, are rubbing off winter coats. They seem to be browsing the park hungrily everywhere you look.

Summer heat, because of elevation and dry air, radiates quickly but never becomes stifling. Winds are strong and steady and there is always a danger of exposure for those unprepared for sudden thunder and lightning storms, or for the sudden cooling after sunset. Most visits to Devils Tower are made in the summer when the surrounding rangelands are green and the sparkling watercourses invite refreshment under shade of cottonwoods.

Early fall, just as the range begins to brown, is perhaps a perfect time to be at Devils Tower. The park is uncrowded after Labor Day. Protected meadows are still green. Animals are in their prime and ready for the rigors of winter. The faint odor of decaying vegetation and the foretaste of winter on a particularly bracing chill wind—these are the pleasures of a long Wyoming fall.

Winter brings an air of enforced isolation to Devils Tower. Heavy snows and frequent blizzard conditions on the highways discourage most travelers. A rare treat awaits those who do come here in winter, however. Bald eagles migrate down from the north. You might see them wheeling in pairs over an otherwise frozen landscape, or making a feast of carrion on the ground.

Access

Highways—From Rapid City, S. Dak., take I-90 west to Sundance. Wyo.; then U.S. 14 to Devils Tower Junction; then Wyo. 24 to park. From Gillette, Wyo., take I-90 east to Moorcroft, then U.S. 14 to Wyo. 24. From Newcastle, Wyo. take U.S. 16 to Moorcroft. From Belle Fourche, S. Dak., take S. Dak. 34 to Wyoming line, then Wyo. 24 via Hulett to park. Buses—Nearest regularly scheduled buses serve Moorcroft; no service to park. Railroads—Nearest rail passenger service is in Cheyenne. Airport—Rapid City Airport is served by a few commercial airlines. Cars may be rented.

Visitor Center

For a general introduction to Devils Tower, the visitor center has exhibits, an audio/visual program, trail guides and plant and animal checklists, a publications sales outlet, and an information counter with a ranger on duty to answer questions. This is also the place where climbers must register to climb Devils Tower. The visitor center is open from about May 1 to October 31. In winter information requests are answered in the headquarters administration building.

Camping

The park has one campground for which a campsite fee is charged from about May 20 through September 10. Opening and closing dates depend on weather conditions. It has about 50 camping sites which will accommodate both tent and trailer camping equipment. A water tap, restrooms, fire grills, and picnic tables are provided, but there are no utility hook-ups for trailers. Campsites are taken on a first-come, first-served basis. After September 10, or later at the first sign of freezing, the water is shut off and the road is not snowplowed. Winter camping is allowed, however.

Scheduled Activities

The featured program at Devils Tower is presented every evening during the visitor season in the campground amphitheater. The story of the nation’s first national monument is told with projected slide photographs by a park ranger who embellishes the story with colorful anecdotes about rangering experiences.

Hiking

Even if you have only time for a half-day visit to Devils Tower, it’s time enough for a hike around the tower. Tower Trail is only 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) long and traverses fairly level ground. It stays in forest shade while it skirts the jumbled mass of boulders lying at the base of the Tower. It is the only trail in the park with formal wayside markers and benches where you can stop and look at the Tower from close up.

The park has three other designated hiking trails, all of them longer than Tower Trail and generally uncrowded. Devils Tower is never out of sight for long though, so it’s not easy to get lost. The longer trails offer a chance to see different plant and animal environments; open meadows, prairie dog towns, bluffs overlooking the Belle Fourche River, the riverside habitat itself, as well as the pine forest, all of which are described in Part 2 of this handbook.

Other accommodations

Motels, trailer courts, camping supply stores, and service stations are in the nearby town of Hulett. Just outside the park boundary is a post office, general store, and commercial campground with a few extra recreational offerings.

Establishment of park

Proclaimed September 24, 1906. Boundary changes, August 9, 1955.

Mailing address

Devils Tower, Wyoming 82714.

Park Regulations

Natural Features

It is unlawful to disturb, injure, destroy, or remove any vegetation or rocks. This basic rule is made not only to protect the natural resources but out of consideration for others who will be here in the future.

Wildlife

Do not feed the prairie dogs or let them get close to you; they carry fleas and they can bite you. Do not chase, harass, attempt to catch, or feed any park animals. Rattlesnakes usually don’t strike unless provoked or mistreated. Watch out for them! Hunting is not permitted in the park. If firearms and other weapons are carried, they must be unloaded and cased so as to prevent their use.

Pets

All pets must be kept in vehicles, or caged or leashed when in the park. They are not permitted in public buildings.

Traffic

Drive carefully to protect yourself, others, and wildlife. Do not obstruct traffic by stopping on the road; pull over and let other vehicles pass. Driving off roadways is prohibited. Park on road shoulders or at parking areas only.

Sanitation

Camp only at the campground. Dump wastes and wash water in special sinks at the restrooms, not on the ground. Littering is both irresponsible and unlawful. Trash cans are provided at convenient places throughout the park; please use them.

Fire Prevention

Fires are permitted only in the fireplaces found in the campground and must not be left unattended. Thoroughly drown all campfires with water after use.

Climbing the Tower

All climbers must register by name, address, and telephone number with a park ranger before going up.

And you must check out when you return. This is the only safety precaution on climbing required by the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations. Depending on your mountain climbing experience here and elsewhere, however, you might want to ask the rangers for safety hints, different climbing routes, and conditions on the face of the Tower at the time of your climb.

More than 80 separate routes to the top have been taken and described in the literature. No one has been killed climbing the Tower, a remarkable record. The most difficult pitches come first while there is still plenty of time to turn back or take an easier route. Also, compared to other mountains, Devils Tower can be conquered in a short time, less than an hour for the most skilled if they use an easy route. This means less chance of exhaustion from exposure. In sudden bad weather, one can easily rappel off in 40 to 60 minutes.

George Willig, in red shirt, and Steve Matous prepare to climb Devils Tower in 1979.

Their climb was witnessed by a national audience on a televised all-day sport show and by a large crowd in the park using telescopes and binoculars.

Records of climbs have been kept at the park since 1937. In 1963 the one thousandth climber checked in and in 1970 the two thousandth. Since 1977 more than 1,000 make the climb every year. The Tower has been climbed with the direct aid of ropes and pitons and with a technique known as “free climbing” without the use of ropes except as backup to catch a fall. It has been climbed from all sides and in all seasons, even on Christmas Day and on New Year’s Day. Some people, of course, prefer to climb the Tower in snow and ice. One might conclude that all the “firsts” have been taken at Devils Tower, but, as long as the personal challenge of the sport continues to attract newcomers, there are certain to be more new records.

From the ground a member of the Willig party looks minute.

Up close, another climber ponders his next move.

August has been the most active climbing month in recent years. The heat on the south-facing side of the Tower presents serious problems though. Climbers usually try to start as early as possible before the sun has a chance to heat the rock blazing hot.

Climbers rightfully take interest in the geology of the Tower. Worming their fingers into cracks and fissures, depending for their lives on the ringing-hard igneous mass that supports them, rock climbers develop a familiarity with various origins and kinds of rock. They, of course, contribute to the ongoing process of erosion which, over eons of time, has left Devils Tower in its present form. The amount of loose rock that breaks off under their feet, however, is far less than the amount lost every season from frost-heave, the effect of water seeping behind the surface rock and expanding into ice. The boulder field at the base of the Tower tells the rest of the erosion story. By studying lichen growing on the last slab to fall off the side, it has been estimated that this event occurred more than 10,000 years ago.

Nearby National Parks

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

is 40 kilometers (25 miles) southwest of Rapid City, South Dakota. Patriotic ideals representing the birth of the Nation through its entry into 20th Century world affairs are symbolized in massive stone carvings of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. The scale and difficulty of sculptor Gutzon Borglum’s achievement perhaps can only be appreciated in person. From June 1 to Labor Day the faces are illuminated at night and evening programs are presented in the amphitheater. Mailing address: Keystone, South Dakota 57751.

Wind Cave National Park

is located on U.S. 385, 16 kilometers (10 miles) north of Hot Springs, South Dakota. Wind whistling from the entrance attracted attention to the cave, hence its name. Jesse McDonald developed the cave as a tourist attraction in 1890. His son, Alvin, explored its passageways and named many of the fancy formations. Above ground the park preserves a natural prairie environment and a remnant bison herd, as poignant a scene as you will find anywhere in the West. Tours of the cave are conducted by park rangers throughout the year except on December 25 and January 1. A campground is open from mid-May through mid-September on a first-come, first-served basis. Mailing address: Hot Springs, South Dakota 57747.

Mount Rushmore is one of the most grandiose monuments of patriotism in the United States, attracting travelers from across the Nation and around the world.

The bison herd at Wind Cave National Park conjures up images of days gone by when as many as 60 million of these animals roamed a 30-state area between the Rockies and the eastern woodlands.

Jewel Cave National Monument

is located on U.S. 16, 24 kilometers (15 miles) west of Custer, South Dakota. Glittering arrays of mineral formations—jewel-like calcite crystals, calcite “popcorn,” crystalline gypsum “flowers”—give this park its name. On the four levels seemingly endless passageways wind on and on, and the end is still not in sight. On the surface in the ponderosa pine forest, you can tell from the dark bark of the young trees why, as one approaches, the Black Hills appear black. Cave tours are conducted daily from mid-May through September. The park does not have overnight accommodations or campgrounds. Mailing address: Custer, South Dakota 57730.

Calcite crystals glisten and sparkle on the walls of Jewel Cave.

East of Rapid City a different light show can be enjoyed as sunrises and sunsets heighten the natural colors of the eroded rock in Badlands National Park.

Badlands National Park

is 97 kilometers (60 miles) southeast of Rapid City, South Dakota. Badlands generally describes any deeply eroded and weather-beaten landscape. The play of light and shadow over endless naturally sculpted shapes and the colors of naked rock give these badlands their special beauty. In 1976 a major portion of Badlands National Park was designated wilderness and a new south unit extended the boundaries into the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. The park has paleontology exhibits, a program on the history of the Oglala Sioux, a variety of nature trails, and a long road system with wayside exhibits at many scenic overlooks. The park has a herd of about 300 bison and some prairie dog towns. It is open all year. Mailing address: Interior, South Dakota 57750.

Not So Nearby National Parks

A considerable distance from Devils Tower, yet related by geography and even history, is a band of national parks not to be overlooked. Yellowstone and Grand Teton in northwestern Wyoming, may, in fact, be your ultimate destination. The snow-capped peaks of the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, where Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area is located, can be seen from several places along the approach road to Devils Tower. Custer Battlefield, adjoining the Crow Indian Reservation, is on the northern route to Yellowstone through Billings, Montana. Theodore Roosevelt National Park celebrates the man and the ideals of the American conservation movement which he accelerated by proclaiming Devils Tower the first national monument.

Yellowstone National Park

is on U.S. 89, 90 kilometers (56 miles) south of Livingston, Montana. This first and reigning queen of all national parks, established more than a century ago, draws travelers as if it were a place of pilgrimage. Indeed, there is spiritual enchantment beyond measuring in the lively animation of Yellowstone—its exploding geysers, steaming hot pools, and dashing waters draining both sides of the continent. Between October 31 and May 1, park roads and entrances, except the North Entrance, are ordinarily closed by snow. Winter activities include snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. Campgrounds usually open about June. A host of park-sponsored and concessioner services are offered. Mailing address: Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming 82190.

Grand Teton National Park

is located just north of Jackson, Wyoming, on U.S. 187, and 90 kilometers (56 miles) south of Yellowstone via the John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway. The Tetons, among the noblest creations in the American West, are a congregation of blue-gray pyramids soaring above the sagebrush flats and morainal lakes in Jackson Hole. The valley, a hunting ground of prehistoric Indians for centuries, became a fur trade crossroads in the early 19th Century. Geology, wildlife, plains Indian culture, all share leading roles in the story of this park. Visitor facilities are open all year, though curtailed somewhat in winter. Mailing address: Moose, Wyoming 83021.

Custer Battlefield National Monument

is on Interstate 90, 24 kilometers (15 miles) south of Hardin, Montana. On Sunday, June 25, 1876, Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer and five companies of the 7th Calvary under his immediate command were surrounded and killed by Indians. The defeat shocked the nation and still reverberates with questions about what exactly happened in this clash of cultures. Memorials spread across the hills soberly tell what little is known. The park, open all year, has exhibits but no campgrounds. Mailing address: Crow Agency, Montana 59022.

Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

straddles the Montana-Wyoming boundary, 67 kilometers (42 miles) from Hardin, Montana, on the north: and at Lovell, Wyoming, on the south. Access to boat launching ramps and campgrounds is from either end of the long narrow reservoir backed up behind Yellowtail Dam on the Bighorn River, which here flows north. Boating and fishing enthusiasts enjoy a long season from mid-April to late October. Tours of the dam and powerhouse are given daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and the visitor centers are open all year. Mailing address: P.O. Box 458, Fort Smith, Montana 59035.

Jackson Lake sits below Mount Moran. This major peak in Grand Teton National Park bears a small permanent glacier.

Another celebrated view is the Lower Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, in Yellowstone National Park.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

is on Interstate 94, at Medora, North Dakota. A north unit is 90 kilometers (56 miles) north on US. 85. TR’s Maltese Cross Cabin is in the south unit, but the park celebrates more than the 26th President’s energetic protection of public lands. Magnificently colored and worn badlands lie on both sides of the Little Missouri River interspersed with grassy ranges where adventurous men, Roosevelt among them, enterprised in the open-range cattle business. Populations of bighorn sheep, bison, and antelope, among the large game animals once hunted to extinction, have been restored. The visiting season is May through October. The park has campgrounds in both north and south units. Mailing address: Medora, North Dakota 58645.

Armchair Explorations

Books:

Allen, Durward L. The Life of Prairies and Plains. Our Living World of Nature series. McGraw-Hill, 1967.

Everhart, William C. The National Park Service. Praeger Publishers, 1972.

Lamb, Russell, photos by. Wyoming. Graphic Arts Center Publishing Co., 1978.

Larson, T. A. Wyoming—A Bicentennial History. Norton, 1977.

Robbins, Royal. Basic Rockcraft. La Siesta Press, 1971.

Robbins, Royal. Advanced Rockcraft. La Siesta Press, 1973.

Tilden, Freeman. The National Parks. Alfred A. Knopf, 1978.

Tilden, Freeman. Interpreting Our Heritage. University of North Carolina Press, 1977.

Wetmore, Clifford M. Lichens of the Black Hills. Vol. 3, No. 4. Michigan State University, 1968.

Wind Cave. National Park Handbook series, 104. National Park Service, 1979.

Booklets:

Cunningham, Robert. It’s a Dog’s Life. Theodore Roosevelt Nature and History Association, n.d.

Horning, Dennis, and Marriott, Hollis. Free Climbs of Devils Tower. 1980.

Mattison, Ray H. Devils Tower National Monument—A History. Devils Tower Natural History Association, 1981.

Robinson, Charles S. Geology of Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming. Devils Tower Natural History Association, n.d.

Van Bruggen, Theodore. Wildflowers of the Northern Plains and Black Hills. Badlands Natural History Association, 1976.

Index

Numbers in italics refer to photographs, illustrations, or maps.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A
Animal life 24, 29, 35, 47, 58, 69, 71;
photos 31, 37, 60-61.
See also Birds; Deer; Prairie Dogs
Antiquities Act of 1906 17
B
Badlands National Park 52, 75
Badger 61
Belle Fourche River 9, 11, 17, 22-23, 24, 27, 42
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area 76-77
Birds 24, 32, 34, 35, 36, 42-43, 46;
photos 31, 44, 45, 60, 61
Black Hills 9, 10-11, 29
Bluebird, mountain 45
Bullsnake 61
C
Climbers 12, 14-15, 16, 30, 31, 72, 73
Conn, Herb 15
Conn, Jan 15
Coyote 61
Custer, George Armstrong 9, 10, 76
Custer Battlefield National Monument 76
D
Deer, whitetail 35, 37, 38-39
Devils Tower National Monument 29, 69;
climbers 12, 14-15, 16, 30, 31, 72, 73;
established 12, 17, 71;
geological origins 11, 25-27, 35;
Indian names 10-11, 26;
photos 6-7, 17, 18;
size 27, 69;
tourism 19, 34, 69-71
Dodge, Richard I. 10-11
Doves, rock 31
Durrance, Jack 15, 16
E
Eagle, golden 60, 61
F
Falcon, prairie 34, 61
Ferrett, black-footed 51, 61
Fox 37
G
Geology 11, 25-27, 35
Gopher, pocket 37
Grand Teton National Park 76, 77
Grasslands 29, 31, 35, 46, 64-65
H
Hanson, Dennis 31
Hopkins, George 15, 16
I
Indians 10, 26
Insects 32-33, 46
J
Jackson, William H. 12
Jewel Cave National Monument 74-75
Joyner, Newell F. 15
M
Magpie, black-billed 45
Map 51, 68
Mateo Tepee 10, 11
Matous, Steve 72
Missouri Buttes 26, 27
Mondell, Frank W. 17
Moran, Thomas 12
Mount Rushmore National Memorial 74
N
National parks 74-77
Nighthawk 45
Nuthatch, white-breasted 44, 45
O
Owl, screech 13;
burrowing, 55, 61
P
Porcupine 37
Prairie dogs 28, 29, 50-65 passim, 71;
photos 12, 48-49, 54, 55, 56, 57
R
Raccoon 37
Ripley, Willard 12, 14, 16
Rogers, William 12, 14, 16
Roosevelt, Theodore 17
Roosevelt National Park, Theodore 52, 77
Rowell, Galen 30, 31
S
Showacre, Joan 15
Squirrel, ground 37
T
Trees 9, 29, 36, 40, 41
W
Warren, Francis E. 12
Weasel, longtail 37
Wiessner, Fritz 15
Willig, George 16, 72
Wind Cave National Park 52, 74
Woodpecker, red-headed 45
Wyoming 9-10, 11-12
Y
Yellowstone National Park 76, 77

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.

Stock Number 024-005-00810-1.

?GPO: 1981—341-611/2

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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