  Ask a ranger for directions to the protected example of a Devil’s Corkscrew, the fossilized burrow of a small, beaver-like animal called Palaeocastor. See pages Visiting the ParkContents of This Section
LocationNorthwestern Nebraska 69 kilometers (43 miles) north of Scottsbluff along the Niobrara River. Area1,116 hectares (2,762 acres). ClimateTemperatures range from winter lows of -38° C (-36° F) to summer highs of 39° C (101° F). Winter temperatures average 1° C (33° F), and winter snow averages 60 centimeters (2 feet) for the whole winter. However, snowdrifts can be much higher. Summer nights are cool, with temperatures averaging 10° C (50° F). Average annual precipitation is 41 centimeters (16 inches), with most precipitation in April and May. When to VisitMost people go to the park some time between June and August, but you can avoid the high summer temperatures by visiting in the spring, fall or—if you don’t mind the cold and snow—in the winter. Spring can be blustery, but the fall is usually dry and the days are cool. Check ahead on local weather conditions if you plan a winter visit. Museums and tourist attractions in nearby Fort Robinson are open Memorial Day to Labor Day. Visitor CenterA ranger is on duty to help you and answer your questions. Fossil exhibits and part of James H. Cook’s personal collection of Indian items are on display in the visitor center, and publications about the park, paleontology, and history are on sale. ActivitiesA trail from the visitor center takes you on a tour to both University and Carnegie Hills, with an interpretive display at each. The roundtrip distance is three kilometers (two miles) and takes about one hour. You may fish for German brown and rainbow trout in the Niobrara River if you have a Nebraska fishing license. The park has several tables for picnickers. CampingThe park has no camping facilities, but there are state campgrounds near Harrison and near Fort Robinson, Nebraska, and a commercial campground on Nebr. 26 between Mitchell and Scottsbluff, Nebraska. Nearby AccommodationsHotels, motels, food stores, outdoor supply stores, and restaurants are available in Scottsbluff, Nebraska. A motel, restaurant, gas station, and grocery store are in Mitchell, Nebraska, 55 kilometers (34 miles) south of the park. There are a motel, food store, drugstore, and restaurant in Harrison, Nebraska, 37 kilometers (23 miles) north of the park, and there are motels and restaurants at Fort Robinson, Nebraska, 37 kilometers (23 miles) east of Harrison, or 74 kilometers (46 miles) northeast of the park. TransportationBuses—The nearest bus connections are in Scottsbluff, Nebraska. Airport—Scottsbluff, Nebraska, has an airport served by a scheduled commercial airline. Rentals—Cars may be rented at the airport or at car rental agencies in Scottsbluff. Establishment of the parkJune 5, 1965. Mailing Address
AccessTo reach the park from Scottsbluff, Nebraska, take Nebr. 26 west to Mitchell, then Nebr. 29 north to the park. From Fort Robinson, Nebraska, take Nebr. 20 west to Harrison, then Nebr. 29 south to the park. Plains states ProtectionThe trail from the visitor center takes you across the Niobrara River, up University Hill to the fossil layer, then to the fossil exhibit on Carnegie Hill, and back to the visitor center. The walk takes about one hour. Two fishermen try their luck in the Niobrara. Park RegulationsTo ensure your safety and to protect the park’s natural and historical resources, several regulations have been established by the National Park Service. Collecting of fossils, rocks, plants, or other objects is not permitted. Please be sure to leave everything as you find it along the trails and throughout the park for others to enjoy. If you have any questions about park regulations and policies, please ask the staff. The rangers are here to help you and to enforce the regulations. Safety TipsThough snakes are not prevalent, be sure to watch for rattlesnakes as you walk about through the park, along the trails, and near the exhibits at Carnegie and University Hills. Avoid them if you see them, but do not harm them. As a general rule it is best to keep a good distance from any wildlife you see, not only to protect yourself and your children, but to avoid frightening or hurting the animal. It is best to observe wildlife at a safe distance with field glasses. While walking about the park, do not take chances by climbing on loose rock, or going into unauthorized areas, and do not let your children go beyond your control. Park your vehicle in authorized places and observe the normal rules of road safety and courtesy while you are in the park, and when entering and leaving it. Birding Along the NiobraraTaking the Annual CountOne of the joys of visiting the national parks, author Freeman Tilden once said, is having an unexpected, provocative experience. You go to a park to see or do one thing, and you come across something else that strikes your fancy as well. Tilden called it serendipity. At Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, one such experience might be birdwatching. In this piece, Doris B. Gates writes of her annual bird surveys in this area. In western Nebraska the northern part of the Great Plains ends at the Pine Ridge, an escarpment circling from Wyoming across Nebraska’s north edge and winding into South Dakota. A major grass of this mixed prairie is little bluestem, Nebraska’s state grass, whose rusty-red hue in fall and winter gives much of the state its characteristic color. These plains are rarely broken by cultivation and only a few houses with their few trees break the landscape. The land’s major change comes where the Niobrara River, here little more than a narrow creek, cuts a valley whose rock outcroppings provide homes for rock wrens, chipmunks, and bushy-tailed wood rats better known as pack or trade rats. Swainson’s hawk Here, since 1967, near Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, my partner and I have taken part in the annual Breeding Bird Survey for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Part of one of our survey routes, Highway 29, crosses the monument’s west end. We know the area—in June at least—quite intimately, when there is nothing quite so beautiful as a sunrise over these flower-dotted, green-grassed rolling hills along the Niobrara. We go many kilometers and make many bird counting stops, then we drop into the little valley where the Niobrara flows and suddenly we hear and see birds in such rapid succession that we have difficulty getting them all named in the three minutes allowed us under the survey rules. Actually, three stops are influenced by the river: on the south edge we have found a common nighthawk, a lark sparrow, and a Say’s phoebe; on the north end the rock wren sings its un-wrenlike song. Near the bridge, where a narrow belt of shrubs and trees—mostly willows—hugs the river, we have logged the following: common flicker, a red-headed woodpecker, eastern and western kingbirds, western wood peewees, a blue jay, black-capped chickadees, house wrens, a brown thrasher, robins, yellow warblers, black-billed magpies, common grackles, black-headed grosbeaks, American goldfinches, and the non-native house sparrow and starling. Only once did we see or hear a black-billed cuckoo. continues on page 85 Red-winged blackbird chick Long-billed curlew chick Long-billed marsh wren Canada geese Long-billed curlew male House wren Nighthawk Marsh hawk chicks Killdeer Great horned owl Western meadowlark American bittern Pocket gopher Jackrabbit Hognose snake Fence lizard Coyote Pronghorn If we stop and peer into a large culvert under the highway we may scare out a cloud of cliff swallows whose mud nests are stuck on culvert walls. Barn and rough-winged swallows are more rarely seen—usually near the Agate buildings. Near scattered farmhouses we may see logger-head shrikes; by one water tank we usually find a few killdeer. These and such birds as the long-billed curlew, upland sandpipers, and sharp-tailed grouse break the near monotony of such prairie birds as western meadowlarks (Nebraska’s state bird), lark buntings, horned larks, and chestnut-collared longspurs. Lark buntings line the utility wires, taking off to sing their territorial songs, and descending with butterfly-like motions. Hawks are here—red-tails, Swainson’s, ferruginous, marsh, and the little American kestrel—but in small numbers. We search long rows of fence posts for a burrowing owl and occasionally see one. Great-horned owls frequent tall cottonwood trees around the Agate ranch buildings. This is also the country of turkey vultures, golden eagles, and prairie falcons, but we have not been lucky enough to see them yet. Mammals are more elusive. Cattle pasture conspicuously on land formerly claimed by the buffalo (bison). We see pronghorns each year. A lone coyote is the only other relatively large mammal we have logged. Check a good mammal book and you will appreciate what lives here largely invisible to the untrained eye: shrews, moles, bats, cottontails and two kinds of jackrabbits, pocket gophers, prairie dogs, kangaroo rats, voles, several kinds of mice, two kinds of ground squirrel, muskrats, beaver, raccoons, minks, badgers, longtailed weasels, two kinds of skunks, occasional porcupines and bobcats, white-tailed deer, and mule deer. Consider yourself lucky if you see the swift fox, mountain lion, and the rare black-footed ferret. Life abounds here in other forms less noticeable to eyes trained on the Breeding Bird Survey: various species of amphibians, reptiles, fish, and the numerous insects associated with grasslands. We hear perhaps too much about rattlesnakes—western Nebraska has only the prairie rattler, whose numbers are now much reduced. Other snakes include western hognosed, blue racer, bullsnake, and the plains, wandering, and red-sided garter snakes. Collections of Agate Springs FossilsMuseums You Can VisitMany museums throughout the world have displays of fossils from the Agate Fossil Beds. Very few of them actually collected their own material. Museum curators are dedicated “horse traders” and fossil-swapping is part of the business. When museums such as the Carnegie Museum of Pittsburgh or the American Museum of Natural History in New York make collections like the ones made at Agate earlier in this century, they usually have some trading stock left over after completing their study collections and exhibits. They then can trade an extra Menoceras slab, for example, for a dinosaur skeleton from some faraway corner of the Earth. At several museums in this country you can see mounted skeletons of several animals found at Agate, along with Menoceras slabs (sections of rock with the bones still imbedded) or models and dioramas of Agate specimens. To the right are listed, in order of proximity to the park, some of the museums and their specimens from Agate. The United States Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution, has many fossils that depict the life of the most recent 65 million years and several murals by artist Jay H. Matternes showing the life of each of the epochs. The Miocene mural, reproduced on pages 20-21 of this handbook, is among these reconstructions. It depicts ancient life around what is today known as Agate Fossil Beds National Monument.
NPS Areas With Fossil ExhibitsSeveral fossil sites in the United States are under the protection of the National Park Service. Besides Agate, the major ones are: Badlands National Park, South DakotaBadlands Prominent deposits from the Oligocene Epoch, predecessor to the Miocene, combine with a rugged, eroded landscape and abundant wildlife to make Badlands a park where the natural processes of the past combine with those of today. The National Park Service maintains a Fossil Exhibit Trail at Badlands and presents fossil cleaning demonstrations. Prominent fossils are those of ancient camels, giant pigs, sabertooth cats, Protoceras, and Brontotheres. Mailing address: P.O. Box 6, Interior, SD 57750. Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado and UtahDinosaur The late Jurassic muds and sands of the Morrison Formation have been a major source of dinosaur bones for more than a century. Steeply tilted strata near Vernal, Utah, were the source of tons of bones for the Carnegie Museum of Pittsburgh. This quarry site became the nucleus of Dinosaur National Monument. The bone-bearing stratum has been exposed by careful excavation, so that bones and partial skeletons of numerous dinosaurs are exposed in high relief. The entire quarry face is covered by a glass-walled structure that forms a large gallery. Mailing address: 4545 E. Hwy. 40, Dinosaur, CO 81610. Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, ColoradoThis site has long been famous for its fossils of insects and plants preserved in fine-grained sediments. Specimens of Brontothere indicate an Eocene age for the deposits. Mailing address: P.O. Box 185, Florissant, CO 80816. Florissant Fossil Butte National Monument, WyomingWithin the strata of this rock remnant of an ancient lake is one of the most extensive concentrations of fossilized freshwater fish known to science. The site is about 18 kilometers (11 miles) west of Kemmerer, Wyoming. Mailing address: P.O. Box 592, Kemmerer, WY 83101. Petrified Forest National Park, ArizonaPetrified Forest Here in the Late Triassic Chinle Formation are widespread deposits of petrified logs. Some are nearly 2 meters in diameter and 60 meters long (6.5 by 197 feet). Preserved in bright colors of opal and other minerals, the most common trees are relatives of the living monkey puzzle or Hawaiian star pine. Paleontologists believe many of the logs floated to the area in Triassic rivers and became stranded. In the museum are displays of various fossil plant species and animal fossils from the same deposits. Mailing address: P.O. Box 2217, Petrified Forest National Park, AZ 86028. John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, OregonWith a total of about 5,700 hectares (14,100 acres) in several noncontiguous units in north-central Oregon, this park provides an extensive record of Earth history dating back at least 37 million years. Plant and animal fossils are present in great variety. Mailing address: HCR 82, Box 126, Kimberly, OR 97848. Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, IdahoWithin the banks of the Snake River are preserved the last vestiges of late Pliocene life before the Ice Age and modern flora and fauna appeared. Mailing address: P.O. Box 570, Hagerman, ID 83332. Nearby National ParksWhile you’re in the Agate Fossil Beds area, why not see some other sites in the National Park System? These parks offer a variety of experiences from frontier history presentations to caving. Devils Tower Fort Laramie Mount Rushmore Scotts Bluff Not So Nearby National ParksBy expanding your travel perimeter even farther beyond Agate Fossil Beds, you can take in these other National Park System sites. Rocky Mountain Theodore Roosevelt Armchair ExplorationsSome Books You May Want to Read
IndexNumbers in italics refer to photographs, illustrations, charts, or maps. A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
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