Looking out over the rippling grasses, you grasp the fact that Nebraska is larger than all of New England and feel the awesome spaciousness of the Great Plains. The word “distance” has a different meaning here than it does in the East. When James Cook came to the upper Niobrara River, the closest town was Cheyenne, Wyoming—more than 160 kilometers (100 miles) to the southwest.

It was there, in Cheyenne, that Cook met Dr. Elisha B. Graham in 1879, the year Graham selected this land for a cattle ranch as an investment and as a summer retreat for his family. Graham named the place the 04 Ranch, apparently because it is near the 104th meridian. Cook visited the ranch often in the early 1880s and courted Elisha and Mary Graham’s daughter Kate. They were married in 1886 and lived near Socorro, New Mexico, for a year before returning to Nebraska with their newborn child, Harold, and buying the ranch from Dr. Graham, who moved to California.

Cook began at once to make improvements to the ranch. He planted trees by the hundreds and carried water to them faithfully to get them started. As settlers failed to “prove up” their land claims over the years, he added new lands to the ranch and changed the name to Agate Springs Ranch in recognition of the native moss agates and the many springs in the valley. He and Kate raised fine race horses as well as cattle.

The period in which the Cooks took over the ranch was one of transition from the frontier days of migrations and Indian wars to more settled, orderly lives. Ranching and farming became the dominant mode of life in the eastern approaches to the Rockies. Even oil exploration played a part in the development of the land. The transition was a difficult one for many, Indian and settler alike.

In some ways Kate Cook represented both the old and the new in Nebraska. She was a fine horsewoman; one day she rode a bucking horse through the streets of Cheyenne sidesaddle to win a bet for her husband. She was refined, too, having taught herself French so she could read French literature. Her mother, Mary Graham, became the first postmistress for the small community around Agate.

And James Cook was more than an adventuresome frontiersman. He was actively interested in community and national affairs and in current scientific questions. He became a patient, knowledgeable mediator between the Indians and the settlers, and he was looked upon by the Oglala Sioux as a friend and host, and sometimes employer.

The Cooks became involved in a great scientific enterprise quite accidentally around 1885, the year before their marriage. On a ride up the conical buttes not far from the ranch house, a glitter under a rock shelf caught Cook’s eye. They found fragments of bones scattered on the ground. At first they assumed the bones were those of an Indian. But Cook found instead “a beautifully petrified piece of the shaft of some creature’s leg bone.” They carried it back to the house but didn’t report the find until after they bought the ranch. Erwin Barbour of the University of Nebraska was the first to respond to their reports and in 1892 became the first professional geologist to visit the area and do some prospecting.

The Cooks’ discovery thrust them and their ranch into a subtle battle in the American West, a continuing struggle to find the best fossils with which to reconstruct the ancient past. For centuries it had been thought that life on our planet was only a few thousand years old, but by the late 19th century science had evolved beyond that point of view. Now paleontologists and their excavation teams were scouring the West in search of fossils that might provide clues to the beginnings of life.

The two most noted antagonists in this feverish search were Professors Edward D. Cope of Philadelphia and Othniel C. Marsh of Yale University. Cook knew them both, but the discoveries at Agate would wait for the next generation of scientists.