Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued—Beallsville to Washington—Hillsboro—The Old Hill House—Samuel Youman, next to Old Mount the biggest man of the Road—George Ringland, John Noble, Billy Robinson, Charley Miller’s, The Gals House, Daniel Ward, Egg Nog Hill, The Long Stretch, Thomas Hastings, The Upland House, Joseph Doak, The Mount Vernon House, Maj. Dunlap, Charles Rettig, Pancake, Jonathan Martin, The Sample House.

Three miles west from Beallsville the traveler reaches the village of Hillsboro. This little town is another outgrowth of the National Road, and as at Beallsville and Centreville, the road forms its main street. The grade from Beallsville to Hillsboro is for the most part ascending, the hill going out west from Beallsville being one of the longest on the road, and Hillsboro is situate on a lofty eminence overlooking a wide range of hills, and many fertile slopes and valleys. On the summit above Hillsboro, the traveler coming east, gets the first glimpses of Laurel Hill, thirty miles distant in the mountains. Crumrine’s history of Washington county, before quoted, informs us that Hillsboro was laid out in the year 1819, a date coincident with the completion of the road. The proprietors of the town were Stephen Hill and Thomas McGiffin, and Crumrine’s history contains the following notice of the first public sale of lots:

“The public are informed that a town has been laid off, to be called Hillsboro, adjoining Hill’s stone tavern, about equal distance from Washington to Brownsville, and that lots will be sold on the premises on Monday, the 19th day of August, at public auction. Sale to commence at 10 o’clock A. M.

Accompanying the plat of the town as recorded, says Crumrine, were these remarks: “The above is a plan of the town of Hillsboro, nearly equi-distant between Brownsville and Washington, Pennsylvania, on the United States road.” Signed by the proprietors. Stephen Hill belonged to an old family of that name, which was among the early settlers of the region, and Thomas McGiffin was an old and prominent lawyer of Washington, and a contractor on the original construction of the road, father of Col. Norton McGiffin, a soldier of two wars, and Sheriff and member of the Legislature for Washington county. Hill’s stone tavern was in existence as early as 1794. In the early history of the National Road, and for a number of years, it was the leading tavern of Hillsboro, kept by Thomas Hill, who was not a son, but a near relative, probably a nephew, of Stephen Hill, the old proprietor. Samuel Youman kept this house fifty years ago, after the retirement of Hill. Youman was a stage driver as well as a tavern keeper, and next to “Old Mount,” as before stated, the biggest man on the road. One of the stage lines, that on which Youman was a driver, stopped at this house, and it was the only stage house on the road that was largely patronized by old wagoners, and their favor was obtained probably by reason of the spacious and commodious wagon yard in front of the house. John Hampson, John Gibson, William Dawson and Oliver Lacock each in turn kept this house since Youman’s time, and it is at present continued as a tavern by Mr. Lacock’s son.

In the year 1827 James Beck kept a tavern in Hillsboro. He was a member of the old bridge builders firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, and moved from the “Vance farm,” near Uniontown, which he once owned, to Hillsboro, at the date named. He remained in Hillsboro but one year, and his successor in the tavern there was George Ringland. Ringland was a citizen of some prominence in his day, a brother of Col. Thomas Ringland, an old soldier, and a leading man in the public affairs of Washington county more than half a century ago. David Railly succeeded Ringland in this house about the year 1840. It was a stage house, but did a general business. After Railly this house was kept at different times by John Noble, who married Railly’s widow, John Taylor, Henry Taylor, Jesse Core and William Robinson. Noble and Robinson were both old stage drivers, Noble before, as well as after his experience as a tavern keeper. Robinson died a tavern keeper, and in the house last mentioned. “Billy” Robinson was one of the best known and most popular men of the road. He was short in stature, with reddish complexion, dark hair, and an amiable disposition. He hauled many an old-time statesman safely in his nimble coach, and afterward dined him sumptuously in his bountiful tavern. There was an old tavern in Hillsboro, near the centre of the town, on the south side of the road, kept first by John Wilson, and after his time by Stephen Phelps, and next and last by David Powell. Its career was not as long as many other old taverns of the road, but in its time it was a lively house and had a large run of custom. Zeph Riggle kept a tavern in what is known as the Dr. Clark house, on the south side, in Hillsboro, at an early day, and as at other points on the road where he catered to the wants of the traveling public, drew a good trade. He was the only person that ever kept this house as a tavern.

About two miles west of Hillsboro the famous old tavern of Charley Miller is reached. It is a large and handsome brick building on the south side of the road, and was kept before Miller’s time by Henry Taylor. Miller did a large business, and had all sorts of customers, with a capacity to adapt himself to the wants and whims of every variety. He was accustomed to say, in commendation of his whisky, that it was a hundred years old; that he could vouch for its age, for he helped to make it. Parties of young folks were accustomed to drive out from Washington, a distance of ten miles, to take a meal and have a dance at Charley Miller’s. His meals were sumptuous and savory, and gave his house a reputation from which he did not fail to profit. One of his specialties was fine peach brandy, which is graciously remembered and frequently spoken of by the survivors of the old pike boys with a glow of enthusiasm. Miller died in this house, and it passed to the hands of David Ullery.

One and a half miles west of Charley Miller’s, on the south side of the road, a tavern was kept in a wooden building many years ago by William Plymire. This old tavern furnished good entertainment, and its old host was attentive and polite to his patrons. Plymire was succeeded in this house by Henry Yorty, who kept it going as a tavern until his death, and for some time thereafter it was kept by his widow, but was never kept as a tavern after Mrs. Yorty’s time.

The next old wagon stand on the westward tramp is the “Gals House.” This house is situate on the north side of the road, about two miles west of Charley Miller’s. It is a frame building, and once was painted red, but the red all wore off many years ago, and was not replaced. It was called the “Gals House,” because it was owned and conducted by three maiden women of the family name of Dague. The grounds around this old house, night after night, throughout the entire period of the road’s prosperity, were crowded with teams and wagons, and the reputation of the place was excellent in every particular. The Dague girls were the owners of the house, and of about eighty acres of rich land surrounding it, and after business closed on the road, they sold and conveyed the property to Joseph Henderson, a well remembered and worthy old stage driver, who went into possession and made this place his home for many years.

One mile further west is Ward’s. Here a well known tavern was kept by Daniel Ward, all through the flourishing era of the road, and it was well kept and well patronized. Ward was rich, the owner of his tavern stand, and a fine farm in addition, and therefore unlike many other old tavern keepers of the road who leased their houses from year to year, and changed from point to point at different times. Ward’s tavern is a large frame house, on the north side of the road, with a spacious porch in front, and a large wagon yard conveniently attached, and was a favorite stopping place for old wagoners. The old house is still standing, unused, because not needed as a tavern, but it remains a prominent landmark of the road, carrying the mind back to the period of its enlivening scenes and moving pageants. Daniel Ward was a pronounced type of the old tavern keeper. He was rather a large man, not fleshy, but broad shouldered, with a slight stoop. His complexion was reddish, and he always had a pleasant smile wherewith to greet a guest. He wore a broad-rimmed, high-crowned, brown-colored fur hat, with long, soft nap, the style of hat worn by all old tavern keepers and wagoners when dressed for special occasions. Mrs. Ward was an admirable help-mate for her husband. She was a large woman, of florid complexion, and full of energy and zeal in her occupation. The meals she spread before her numerous guests in all seasons were bountiful and relishable, and gave her husband’s old tavern a wide reputation. What a change? Once all was life and animation at this old tavern, now

Four miles west from Ward’s the old and popular wagon stand of Thomas Hastings is reached. In proceeding onward toward the Hastings House a celebrated point is passed, known in the peculiar vocabulary of the road as “Egg Nog Hill.” On this hill for many years lived in retirement Samuel Flowers, one of the oldest, steadiest and best known wagoners of the road. William D. Evans, residing in Malvern, Iowa, a son of Gabriel Evans, of the old firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, contractors and bridge builders, before mentioned, furnishes the following story as to the origin of the name of this hill: The engineers in locating the line of the road were much exercised in fixing the grade at this point, and before arriving at conclusions the sun went down, and with a view probably of stimulating their minds to clearer conceptions, they ordered a bucket of egg-nog to be served in their shanty. Partaking freely of this ancient, agreeable and strong beverage during the night, they proceeded next morning with the work in hand, and established the grade without further embarrassment. The chain carriers and other employees were called in to the rough, roadside banquet, and the region all around echoed the notes of that night’s revelry, and ever thereafter the locality has been known as “Egg Nog Hill.” If this is a true account of the origin of the name, and the authority quoted is respectable and credible, there are many persons willing to aver that the influence of the egg nog was anything but propitious, since the grade of the road at this point is nothing to boast of. At the foot of Egg Nog Hill a valley is reached over which the road passes for a distance of two miles on a level grade, varied by slight undulations, terminating at or near the old Buchanan postoffice. This portion of the road was called by old stage drivers “The Long Stretch,” and over its favorable grade stage teams sped with more than ordinary rapidity. It is considered germaine to state in this connection, that the general grade of the road has been much and sharply criticised, and by many condemned outright. The main point of objection urged against the grade is, that it involves many long and steep hills, which could have been avoided by making side cuts and occupying the valleys, and this is true, but any other location would have lengthened the line and increased the cost of construction and maintenance. David Shriver, of Cumberland, was the chief engineer in charge of the location, and instructed by the Government to make the line as straight as practicable, within the limit of a five degree elevation. Besides, there was a popular theory when the line was located, that a road over hills was not as fatiguing to horses as a road with a uniform grade. It was argued that a horse is provided with two sets of muscles, one of which is used in going up and the other in going down a hill, and the conclusion was that horses were relieved and rested by a change from an up to a down grade. After this digression, the reader’s attention is invited back to the old tavern of Thomas Hastings. It is situate on the summit of a hill of average length and grade on the south side, and a short distance back from the road. The location of this house, with reference to the road, is similar to that of the old red tavern, two miles east of Brownsville. The Hastings House was a leading tavern of the road, all through its prosperous era. The large patronage it enjoyed is the best evidence that it was well kept.

John W. McDowell, of Uniontown, an ex-County Commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, was working on the road in 1844 under the superintendency of William Searight, and boarding at the Hastings House. On the morning of the election of that year he rose “bright and early,” took his breakfast “before the break of day,” mounted a horse, and rode to Mt. Washington, the polling place for Wharton township, which was his home, in time to vote for Polk and Dallas. McDowell frequently relates this incident of his life, when recounting his party services, and lays particular stress on the circumstance that the dining room girls gladly furnished him his breakfast and cheered him on his mission. The distance from the old Hastings tavern to Mt. Washington is forty-two miles.

While the road was undergoing construction, there was a tavern about midway of the “Long Stretch,” and on the south side of the road. It was kept by one Smith, of the extensive American family of that name. At times there was great disorder and much tumult, amounting almost to riot, at this old tavern, and on one of these occasions the old militia of Washington county was ordered to the scene to enforce the keeping of the peace. These disorders, like similar outbreaks of the present day, were no doubt attributable to the immoderate use of intoxicants.

Within a few hundred feet, and west of the old Hastings house, Samuel Hughes kept a tavern in 1844 and before, and probably a short time after that date. His house was a large and imposing frame building on the north side of the road, and known in its day as the “Upland House.” This name appeared on the sign board. The surroundings of this house were attractive. It had an aristocratic air about it, and enjoyed an aristocratic patronage. While old wagoners crowded the Hastings House, travelers in chaises and fine carriages stopped at the Upland. By some means, and many years ago, this old house was demolished, and a fine brick building erected on its site, owned and occupied by Joseph Doak, who was at one time a superintendent of the road.

About one and a half miles west of the Upland House, Major James Dunlap, at a very early period of the road’s history, kept a tavern on the south side, on an elevation and a little distance back from the roadside. It was called the “Mt. Vernon House,” and was doing business as early as the year 1816, two years before the road was completed as far west as Washington. Major Dunlap was a prominent man of his day, and brigade inspector of the Washington county (Pennsylvania) militia, an office of no little consequence in the early history of Pennsylvania. Major Dunlap subsequently kept the Jackson House in Washington, Pennsylvania. Before reaching the Mt. Vernon House, an old round toll house is passed, where William Hill collected tolls for many years from the throngs of travelers on the road. The old Mt. Vernon House was supplanted by a new one, under the direction of Charles Rettig, who became the owner of the property. The new house is a brick structure, and was a wagon stand. There was an abundant water supply at this house, and old stage drivers and wagoners halted upon reaching it to refresh their teams. Charles Rettig died about the year 1860. He was a staunch and sturdy citizen, and possessed the confidence and enjoyed the respect of all his neighbors.

The next point west, but a short distance, is invested with more than ordinary interest. It is Pancake, sometimes called Martinsburg, and in later years, to a limited extent, known as Laboratory. But Pancake was the original, and remains the popular name. It is almost within eyesight of Washington. The first tavern here was kept by George Pancake, and hence the name given the place. His house was a small log building, erected near the beginning of the present century, and probably the first house in the village. Pancake did well with the means at his command, but his old house was not equal to the growing wants of the road, and after it was removed, and the old proprietor called to his final reckoning, Jonathan Martin appeared on the scene. Martin was a discerning man, and foreseeing the future of the National Road as a great highway, built a large brick house for use as a tavern. It is situate on the north side of the road, two stories, twelve large and comfortable rooms, and was erected in the year 1825. A spacious porch runs the entire length of the house and approaches the edge of the road. Jonathan Martin kept this tavern from the date of its erection until business closed on the road, with the exception of one year that it was in charge of J. W. Holland, back in the forties. Since the close of its career as a tavern it has been occupied as a quiet farm house. Martin was a genial landlord, and made money at tavern keeping. A short distance back from the tavern he had a horse-power grist mill and a carding machine which he operated for a number of years, thus supplementing his gains as a tavern keeper. General Jackson was on one occasion a guest of Martin’s tavern, and the celebrated theologian, Alexander Campbell, frequently lodged within its venerable walls and sat at its bounteous table.

As early as 1824 George Ringland kept a wagon stand tavern within a short distance of the borough limits of Washington. His old house, a commodious brick building, is still standing, situate on the north, or at this point rather, east side of the road, with sufficient ground intervening to form a good wagon yard. John Sample succeeded Ringland at this old stand, and became the owner of the property. It is now the private residence of William Workman, esq., and has not been kept as a tavern since 1844.