Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued—Washington to West Alexander—Rankintown—John Rankin—Andrew McDonald—Freaks of an Old Wagon-maker—Robert Smith—John Coulson—Millers—Bedillions—The S Bridge—Caldwells—Mrs. Brownlee—Another Widow McClelland—Claysville—John Sargent—An event in the Life of Dan Rice—Basil Brown—Dennisons—The Walker House—Jonathan D. Leet—Coon Island—John Canode—Rogers and the Doughertys—John Valentine.

After passing Washington the ancient little village of Rankintown is reached. It is situated a short distance over the top of the hill leading up from Catfish, and a little over a mile from Washington. Here a tavern was kept in early times by one Spalding, who seems to have failed in impressing his name on the locality. His successor was John Rankin, who dying, left his name behind him. His house was a large frame building on the south side of the road, with the customary wagon yard attached. While this old tavern did a large wagoner’s trade, its agreeable old host ministered largely to the wants of the traveling public without distinction. As before intimated wagoners as a rule preferred country taverns, and this is probably the reason so many of them halted at Rankin’s rather than proceeding on to Washington, going east, where a number of good taverns were located, but being in a large town, more or less under the ban of “tony places.” John Rankin owned the old tavern stand at Rankintown, and after conducting it for many years during the flourishing era of the road, to use a common phrase of the road, “died with the harness on.” His widow continued to keep tavern at the old stand until about the year 1847, when growing old and tired of the cares and responsibilities of tavern keeping, concluded to retire to private life, and leased the premises to a Mr. Johnson, who conducted the house down to the fifties, when he was succeeded by Andrew McDonald, who remained in charge until the activities of the road ceased. The private residence of the late Hon. William Montgomery was for a number of years on the roadside near the old Rankin tavern. He was an illustrious old pike boy and championed the glories of the road on many an occasion. Rankintown is now an incorporated borough, under the name and style of West Washington, but the glories of the old pike all rest and abide behind the present municipality.

In 1844 and subsequent to that date, Alpheus Murphy, a wagon-maker, lived and operated a shop near the old Rankin tavern. He gained a local notoriety for proclaiming in a loud voice in season and out of season, his sentiments on current topics, and especially political issues. He was a man of great physical strength, and a skillful workman. He had no scruples against taking an occasional glass of the pure whisky that abounded on the road in his day, and was a frequent visitor to Washington. Prompted possibly by the influence of the active element mentioned, he was accustomed to ascend the cupola of the Washington court house and from the balustrade near its summit give vent to his feelings, mainly of a Democratic tendency, in stentorian tones that startled the whole community. Notwithstanding the boisterous fits that marked and may have marred his life, he passed quietly away from the scenes of earth, and will be long and kindly remembered by those who knew him.

Two miles west of Rankintown Robert Smith kept a tavern as early as the year 1818. At this point the National Road crossed an ancient roadway leading from Washington to Wheeling, and Robert Smith kept a tavern here on the old road. It was a frame house on the south side of the road, and in after years became the homestead and private residence of Jacob Weirich, who died its possessor.

Less than a mile west of Smith’s John Coulson kept a tavern as early as 1820, and probably before that date. His house was a frame building, on the south side of the road. The old building was torn down many years ago, and a brick structure erected in its place. Coulson, the old proprietor, has been dead fifty years, and at his death his tavern was closed, and not again re-opened as a public house. The old wagoners and stage drivers who were familiar with Coulson’s tavern long since passed to other scenes, along with its old proprietor.

About one mile west of the old Coulson House the well remembered and popular wagon stand of John Miller is reached. Miller moved to this point in 1836 from a stand two miles west of Pratt’s Hollow, and east of Cumberland, as before stated. The Miller house here is a large brick building, with all the necessary outbuildings for a tavern, and a good wagon yard. It is situate on the north side of the road. To gain the wagon yard going west, old wagoners ascended a steep grade, but on the other side the way was level. Miller had a good custom at his tavern east of Cumberland, and his old friends followed him to his new location. He had long experience as a tavern keeper, and furnished satisfactory entertainment to the traveling public. Previous to 1836 Levi Wilson kept this house, and entertained the first crop of wagoners on the road, and tradition attributes to him a good fame as a tavern keeper. Miller died in this house. A son of Levi Wilson married a daughter of John Miller, and since the death of the latter has been occupying this old tavern-stand as a private residence.

At the foot of the hill west of Miller’s, and on the north side of the road, is the old Bedillion tavern. This house was kept as early as 1830 by one Scott, and as late as 1848 by Christly Wolf, and later by George Boyd, but owing to a usage, in some instances difficult to account for, it is better known as Bedillion’s, especially among old wagoners, than by any other name. Bedillion was a German, and his first name was Abraham, and he probably possessed German traits and practices which made an impression on old wagoners not to be forgotten. He kept this house in 1836. Wolf also was of German origin, but his manners and methods were of the American type. He was a man of prominence in his neighborhood, and wielded considerable local influence, and was likewise a member of the firm of Buck, Lyon and Wolf, contractors, before mentioned. The old Bedillion tavern is a large frame building, with a high porch in front. George Boyd took charge of this house in the early fifties. He exchanged the shoe business in Washington for what he no doubt considered the more profitable pursuit of tavern keeping on the old pike. In this he seems to have been disappointed. His career as a tavern keeper was not successful, and there were two reasons for it. First, he began too late, and second, he was not a pike boy, and therefore not familiar with the wants and ways of the road.

On the north side of the road, about one mile wrest of the S Bridge, and as far back in the past as seventy years, one Andrew Caldwell (not a relative of James, hereinafter mentioned), kept a small wooden tavern and entertained primitive travelers and neighborhood callers in primitive style. An old blacksmith, bearing the surname McSwiggin, was found dead near this old tavern, and there was an undercurrent of suspicion in the neighborhood that Andrew Caldwell, aforesaid, had, in some manner and for some purpose, taken the old blacksmith’s life. However, no prosecution was instituted, and, in fact, no legal investigation made as to the cause of the mysterious death; and it is to be hoped, for the reputation of the early pike boys, that the suspicions whispered against the old tavern keeper were groundless.

The next noted old tavern on the westward march is Mrs. Caldwell’s, seven miles from Washington. Before reaching Mrs. Caldwell’s, the celebrated S Bridge is passed. This bridge takes its name from its shape, which resembles the letter S. It is a large stone bridge over a branch of Buffalo creek. Near this bridge a county road leads to Taylorstown, celebrated in recent years for its oil developments, and in this vicinity reside James Noble and John Thompson, two old wagoners of the road, mentioned in a previous chapter. There is a postoffice here called “S Bridge,” which affords postal facilities for a rich and populous neighborhood. In early times there was a tavern at the eastern end of the S Bridge, and one at its western end. These old taverns accommodated the public in their day, but their facilities were limited, and they ceased to entertain strangers and travelers previous to 1840. Caldwell’s is the tavern mentioned by Mr. Blaine, in the opening chapter of this volume on old taverns. James Caldwell owned and conducted this old tavern from the time the road was opened up for travel, or very soon thereafter, until the year 1838, when he died, and his widow, Hester Caldwell, kept it going as a tavern from that date until 1873, so that she was one of the oldest tavern keepers of the road. The house is a large and handsome structure, near the summit of a long hill, and on the south side of the road. It is, at the present time, occupied by J. A. Gordon, who entertains the public, and as of old, the house is a favorite resort of pleasure seeking parties.

A half a mile west from Caldwell’s, the widow Brownlee kept a tavern in the early history of the road. Her house was a frame building on the south side of the road. Robert Hall afterwards kept this house, and upon his retirement it ceased to do business as a tavern.

On the top of the hill west of Mrs. Brownlee’s the widow McClelland kept a tavern sixty years ago. She was not of the famous tavern keeping family of McClelland, of Uniontown. This widow McClelland was keeping tavern at the point mentioned before the widow McClelland of the McClelland House in Uniontown was born. The Baltimore & Ohio railroad at this day passes through a tunnel near the old tavern of widow McClelland.

Claysville is next reached. It is stated in Crumrine’s history of Washington county, that John Purviance was the first tavern keeper in Claysville, and that he was the founder of the town. “When it became certain,” says Crumrine, “that the National Road would pass through the place, Purviance caused the following notice to be inserted in the Washington Reporter:

“The subscriber having laid off a number of building lots in the new town of Claysville, will offer the same at public sale on the premises, on Thursday, the 8th day of March, next. Claysville is distant ten miles from Washington, westward, and about eighteen east of Wheeling, and six from Alexandria. The great National Road from Cumberland to Wheeling as located by Col. Williams and confirmed by the President, and now rapidly progressing towards its completion, passes directly through the town.

Washington, April 21, 1817.John Purviance.”

It goes without saying that this town was named in honor of Henry Clay, the unrivaled champion of the road. As at other towns mentioned, the road forms the main street of Claysville. In 1821 James Sargent kept a tavern in Claysville, at the sign of the Black Horse. He moved to Claysville from Washington, and the house he kept in Claysville was a brick building, occupied formerly by John Porter. Claysville was a stage station, as before stated. Bazil Brown kept a tavern in Claysville as early as 1836, and probably before that date. He kept a wagon stand and had a large patronage. Some time during the forties, Dan Rice, after his circus stranded, was exhibiting a “learned pig” to the people of Claysville, and in Bazil Brown’s tavern. On the night of the entertainment Brown lost an overcoat, and charged Dan Rice with stealing it, and had him sent up to Washington jail to await trial. Dan employed Seth T. Hurd to defend him, and was acquitted. Soon after Dan appeared in Claysville with a new circus, and sang an original song in the ring intended to embody his recollections of the overcoat escapade, and to lampoon Brown for prosecuting him. The song was smooth, as all Dan’s were, and the thrusts at Brown sarcastic and severe, and much enjoyed by the local hearers. Despite this unfortunate occurrence Bazil Brown was a popular landlord, and kept a good house. The old circus man is still living, and has probably forgotten and forgiven the old tavern keeper for accusing him of felony, but the old tavern keeper long since passed beyond the dark waters, and entered upon the realities of another and unknown realm. James Dennison kept a tavern in Claysville as early as 1840. He subsequently kept at Beallsville and at Hopwood as before stated. He was an old wagoner and kept a wagon stand, but had the patronage of one of the stage lines in Claysville, as well as a wagon custom. Old wagoners felt themselves entirely at home at Dennison’s tavern, and thoroughly enjoyed his agreeable entertainment. David Bell, John Walker, James Kelley, Stephen Conkling and John McIlree were all old tavern keepers at Claysville, and kept stage houses.

There was also a Watkins who kept tavern in Claysville. The house he kept was destroyed by fire previous to 1850. It had the patronage of the Good Intent stage line. David Bell was an old stage driver. His house in Claysville was a brick building on the south side, diagonally opposite the old Walker House. He subsequently kept the Fulton House in Washington in 1862 and 1863. The Walker House was a frame building, on the north side. Walker subsequently located at Wheeling and kept a tavern there. Conkling kept the Walker House. McIlree kept the Brown House. Kelley also kept the Walker House, and it was in this house, and in Kelley’s time, that Jim Burr, the noted stage driver, “knocked out” the Cincinnati buffer, before mentioned. The Stockton line of coaches stopped at the old Brown House, and the Good Intent line at the Walker and Watkins Houses.

The widow Calahan kept a tavern in Claysville prior to 1840. Jonathan D. Leet married her daughter. Leet was a pike boy of no little distinction in his day. His discernment and good taste in wedding the fair daughter of an old tavern keeper were not the only proofs of his wit and worth. He was a lawyer of ability, a major of militia, postmaster of Washington during the presidency of President Polk, and member of the Legislature for Washington county. A large man with prominent features, and somewhat awkward in manner, he was the personification of Mars, when arrayed in the elaborate uniform of the old militia system. The great gilt rolls of the ponderous epaulette, and the immense three cornered and sharp pointed chapeau produced a feeling of awe among all beholders, and struck terror to the hearts of young folks. Major Leet being a lawyer was Judge Advocate at all courts martial during the time he was in commission. Those courts were frequently held in Washington, and their members were required to sit, hear and determine in full uniform. On such occasions Major Leet was “the observed of all observers,” and elicited the admiration of his many friends. There was an old silversmith in Washington by the name of Galt, a man of acute intelligence, given to the amusing side of life, and a close friend of the philosopher Dr. Creigh, of the same place. These old worthies were warm friends of Major Leet, and their enthusiasm knew no bounds in expressing delight over the triumphs of the Major, in conducting these courts martial. In 1848, when Major Leet was postmaster, he was an ardent advocate of the election of General Cass to the presidency, and accustomed to allude with emphasis to the fact that his favorite was “a brave old volunteer.” His candidate, however, was defeated, and under the rule of partisanship, he was superseded in the postoffice by a friend of the victorious columns. Subsequently he was elected to the Legislature, and after serving his term did not return to live among his constituents. He was essentially a pike boy, devoted to the memories of the road, and fond of its associations, yet he died in a strange land, and his is not the only instance wherein a seat in the Legislature has led a man from the gentle paths and innocent pastimes of his early days.

Three miles west from Claysville, at the foot of a long hill, the romantic, not to say classic spot of Coon Island is reached. Here was an old tavern stand, for many years kept by John Canode previous to 1840. It was on the north side of the road, and a wagon stand. The stages stopped here also at times, and it was a regular relay for the express wagons. After Canode’s time the tavern here was kept by John Brotherton and sons. It was a prominent point during the flourishing era of the road. As late as 1853 a Mr. Reed kept the old tavern at Coon Island. The old stage and wagon lines, however, were withdrawn previous to that date, and some small local lines substituted, as if to prevent an abrupt termination to the high prosperity which the road enjoyed for so long a period. The origin of the name Coon Island is presumably unascertainable, else Crumrine in his history of Washington county would have given it, as the locality is within the limits of that county. That coons existed and flourished in the neighborhood from time immemorial, there is scarcely a doubt, but an island has never been witnessed there since the subsidence of the great flood in Noah’s time. The point is now a station on the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, and the name is changed to Vienna. The old name is more appropriate, albeit the island is absent. It is more appropriate, because it is familiar to the people, but it seems to be the inevitable doom of many old familiar names to fall before the advance of modern fancies. Think of an old wagoner going back to Coon Island after an absence of half a century, to find himself “a mere looker on in Vienna!” Shades of the old pike, hide this ruthless and senseless innovation from the eyes of mankind.

Two miles west from Coon Island and a short distance beyond the site of the old Catholic church, an old tavern was kept in early days by one Rogers, and subsequently by Jacob and Michael Dougherty. It was a frame house, on the north side of the road. A good water trough was maintained at this old stand, and travelers halted here for water. In 1830 this old tavern was kept by Jacob Jones, the father of the distinguished iron manufacturer and politician, B. F. Jones, of Pittsburg. The old church mentioned, which will be remembered by all who are familiar with this section of the road, was taken down a few years ago, and rebuilt at Claysville, a more central point for the parishioners. Before reaching Dougherty’s another old round toll house is passed, the last one on the road in Pennsylvania. Here William McCleary collected the tolls for many years.

A few hundred yards further west the old and popular tavern of John Valentine is reached. It is a frame house, on the north side of the road, large and commodious, and was a favorite resort of wagoners. Valentine kept this tavern a great many years. If he had a predecessor or a successor in this house, his name is totally eclipsed by that of John Valentine. He possessed the talent for tavern keeping in a rare degree, and was a brother of Daniel Valentine, the old and popular tavern keeper of Washington, and of Charles Valentine, an old wagoner of that place.