CHAPTER XXXIII.

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Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued—Uniontown—The Town as it Appeared to Gen. Douglass in 1784—Its Subsequent Growth and Improvement—The First Tavern—Other Early Taverns—An Old Chief Justice and an Old Landlady wrangle over a Roasted Pig—Anecdote of George Manypenny and President Jefferson—The Swan, The McClelland, The Seaton, The National, The Clinton, The Moran, The Mahaney.

At the east end of Uniontown the road crosses Redstone creek, over a massive and extensive stone bridge, one of the best and most expensive samples of masonry on the whole line, built by Kinkead, Beck and Evans in 1818. Gen. Ephraim Douglass, the first prothonotary of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, in a letter to Gen. James Irvine, in 1784, describes Uniontown in the following vigorous and graphic style:

My Dear General—If my promise were not engaged to write to you, my inclinations are sufficiently so to embrace with alacrity any opportunity of expressing the gratitude so justly due to your valuable friendship, of declaring the friendship of mine. This Uniontown is the most obscure spot on the face of the globe. I have been here seven or eight weeks, without one opportunity of writing to the land of the living, and though considerably south of you, so cold that a person not knowing the latitude, would conclude we were placed near one of the poles. Pray have you had a severe winter below? We have been frozen up here for more than a month past, but a great many of us having been bred in another State, the eating of hominy is as natural to us as the drinking of whisky in the morning. The town and its appurtenances consist of our president and a lovely little family, a court house and school house in one, a mill and consequently a miller, four taverns, three smith shops, five retail shops, two tan yards, one of them only occupied, one saddler’s shop, two hatter’s shops, one mason, one cake woman (we had two, but one of them having committed a petit larceny is upon banishment), two widows and some reputed maids, to which may be added a distillery. The upper part of this edifice is the habitation at will of your humble servant, who, beside the smoke of his own chimney, which is intolerable enough, is fumigated by that of two stills below, exclusive of the other effluvia that arises from the dirty vessels in which they prepare the materials for the stills. The upper floor of my parlor, which is also my chamber and office, is laid with loose clap-boards, or puncheons, and the gable ends entirely open; and yet this is the best place in my power to procure, till the weather will permit me to build, and even this I am subject to be turned out of the moment the owner, who is at Kentuck, and hourly expected, returns. I can say little of the country in general, but that it is very poor in everything but its soil, which is excellent, and that part contiguous to the town is really beautiful, being level and prettily situate, accommodated with good water, and excellent meadow ground. But money we have not, nor any practicable way of making it. How taxes are collected, debts paid, or fees discharged, I know not; and yet the good people appear willing enough to run in debt and go to law. I shall be able to give you a better account of this hereafter. Col. McClean received me with a degree of generous friendship, that does honor to the goodness of his heart, and continues to show every mark of satisfaction at my appointment. He is determined to act under the commission sent him by council, and though the fees would, had he declined it, have been a considerable addition to my profits, I cannot say that I regret his keeping them. He has a numerous small family, and though of an ample fortune in lands, has no cash at command. The general curse of the country, disunion, rages in this little mud hole with as much fury, as if they had each pursuits of the utmost importance, and the most opposed to each other, when in truth, they have no pursuits at all that deserve the name, except that of obtaining food and whisky, for raiment they scarcely use any. The commissioners—trustees, I should say—having fixed on a spot in one end of the town for the public buildings, which was by far the most proper, in every point of view, exclusive of the saving of expense, the other end took the alarm and charged them with partiality, and have been ever since uttering their complaints. And at the late election for justices, two having been carried in this end of the town, and none in the other, has made them quite outrageous. This trash is not worth troubling you with, therefore I beg your pardon, and am with unfeigned esteem, dear general, your very humble servant.

“EPHRAIM DOUGLASS.”

That was a long time ago, and a great change has come over the face of things. Gen. Douglass lived to see Uniontown arise from the mud hole and become a flourishing county seat. His mortal remains lie buried within the sound of the court house bell, and could he come forth now, and see Uniontown, he would be startled. Instead of a mud hole, he would see finely paved streets, studded with handsome buildings, lighted by electricity, enlivened by electric cars, telegraphs, telephones and railroads, and where the old distilleries stood, beautiful and staunch church edifices with spires pointing to the skies, and in fact he would behold all the evidences of a flourishing city, inhabited by active, intelligent and Christian people.

The first tavern in Uniontown was kept by John Collins in 1781. It was a log house on the north side of the main street, the site of which is now covered by “Commercial Row.” This old house remained standing until 1839, when it was torn down by its owner of that date. Isaac Beeson, who erected the buildings thereafter known as “Commercial Row.” John Collins kept this old tavern down to the year 1799. It was subsequently kept at different times by Samuel Salter, Cuthbert Wiggins, William Salter, John Hoge and Andrew Byers. William Salter was an old sheriff. Byers went from this house to the old Walker House, now the “Central,” and afterward to the “Clinton House.”

Jonathan Rowland, Daniel Culp and Matthew Campbell each kept a tavern in Uniontown as early as 1783. The location of Rowland’s tavern is not accurately known, but the best evidence available, points to the lot now owned by Daniel Downer, esq., and occupied by law offices, near the court house, as the site. Jonathan Rowland subsequently became a justice of the peace, and a leader in public affairs. Culp’s old tavern was a log house on the lot now owned and occupied by Justice Willson, corner of Main street and Gallatin avenue. Matthew Campbell’s old tavern, stood on the western side of the lot now covered by the Moran House, formerly and for many years known as the “Fulton.”

Colin Campbell as early as 1785 kept a tavern in a house that stood on the lot now covered by the Bryan building, on Main street, near the center of the town. This old tavern was subsequently owned and presided over by Samuel Salter, father of William Salter, the old sheriff.

Margaret Allen kept a tavern in the east end of town, a little above and opposite the Madison College buildings, in the year 1788, and for some time thereafter. She died in 1810, at the age of ninety-one years.

Dr. Robert McClure opened a tavern in December, 1792, a short distance west of the court house, on the south side of the street, and kept it down to the year 1813. It does not appear that any other person kept this house. It was in close proximity to the “Jolly Irishman,” hereafter mentioned.

Thomas Collins, son of John Collins, before mentioned, kept a tavern as early as 1794 in an old house on the lot, corner of Morgantown and Main streets, now occupied by the Tremont buildings. Thomas Collins was sheriff of Fayette county from 1796 to 1799, and commanded a company of soldiers from Uniontown and vicinity in the war of 1812, locally called the “Madison Rowdies.” A number of his descendants are still living in the neighborhood of Uniontown.

Previous to the opening of the present century the veteran of Laurel Hill, John Slack, before mentioned, kept a tavern in the old Shelcut house, on the south side of Main street, opposite the old Gregg house, and afterward kept the “Spread Eagle,” the exact location of which is involved in doubt, but the best information available assigns it to the Weniger corner, opposite the old Walker house, hereinafter mentioned.

William Downard, subsequently proprietor of the big water-trough house on Laurel Hill, kept tavern in the Shelcut house from 1801 until probably 1808, when he retired to the pine covered slope of Laurel Hill, where he spent the remainder of his life. He served as County Commissioner from 1802 to 1805.

The Gregg house, situate on the north side of Main street, on the lot now covered by the residence of Dr. J. B. Ewing, was in existence as a tavern as early as 1798, and continued as late as 1865. It was a small house of brick and frame united, but had a large patronage. In early times travelers and other guests at taverns did not desire or expect separate rooms, and hence a small tavern like the Gregg house could accommodate as many persons as the more pretentious hotel of the present day; and at wagon stands the bar room, as before stated, was the only bed chamber for wagoners. James Gregg was the first proprietor of the Gregg house, and was succeeded by his widow, Nancy Gregg, in 1810. After her time it was kept in turn by William Medkirk, Matthew Allen, Simeon Houser, Amos Howell, Philip D. Stentz, and Thomas Moxley. James Gregg, the old proprietor of this house, was the father-in-law of the late Hon. Daniel Sturgeon, who was a United States Senator in the days of Clay, Webster and Calhoun.

In 1779, and for a number of years thereafter, Pierson Sayers kept a tavern in the house now occupied by Mrs. Ruby, on the north side of Main street, a short distance west of the court house. While keeping this house Sayers was elected Sheriff, and turned over his tavern to Jacob Harbaugh, who conducted it for three years, when, singularly enough, he was elected to succeed Sayers as Sheriff. Ellis Baily, the grandfather of Mrs. Ruby, bought this property from Pierson Sayers, and subsequently, and for many years, it was the private residence of the late Hon. John Dawson.

James Piper kept the “Jolly Irishman” as early as 1801. This bustling old tavern was located on Main street, opposite the residence of the late Hon. Daniel Kaine. James Piper, a son of the old proprietor, was a prominent and influential citizen of the town and county for many years. He was a member of the bar, a Justice of the Peace, Register of Wills, and Recorder of Deeds. He left Uniontown about 1850, went west, and died soon after.

William Merriman kept a tavern near Margaret Allen’s old stand as early as 1802. But little is known at this date of Merriman or his old tavern. Its existence was brief and its patronage limited.

At and before the beginning of the present century Samuel Salter kept a tavern in an old log and frame house that stood on the lot now occupied by the handsome residence of the Hon. John K. Ewing. Chief Justice Thomas McKean “put up” at this old tavern on his visits to Uniontown to hold the courts of Fayette county, and was frequently regaled with roast pig. The pig was well prepared, cooked and dressed, and in all respects savory, but its frequent appearance on the table moved the old Chief Justice to believe that he was getting “too much of a good thing,” and accordingly one day, in peremptory terms, he commanded the dining room girl to remove the offensive dish, which she did with trembling hands. This of course raised a storm in the old hostelry. Mrs. Salter became indignant, and, bringing back the pig, replaced it on the table, at the same time addressing the Judge thus: “You are Chief Justice and run the court; I am chief cook and run this dining room. That pig must stay,” and it did. Upon the withdrawal of Salter, in the year 1811, this old tavern came under the management and control of Jacob Harbaugh, the old Sheriff before mentioned. After Harbaugh’s time it was kept by George Ewing down to a period as late probably as 1830. Hugh Espey, a well remembered old County Treasurer, and straightgoing Presbyterian elder, married a daughter of George Ewing.

Opposite the old Gregg house, and adjoining the Shelcut house, George Manypenny kept a tavern as early as the year 1814, and probably before that date. This was a leading tavern of the town, subsequently conducted by Benjamin Miller, and after him by Harry Gilbert. One of the old stage lines stopped at this house. George Manypenny, the old proprietor, was the father of the late Hon. George W. Manypenny, who was for many years a prominent and popular political leader and officeholder of the State of Ohio. He was born in Uniontown, and most likely in his father’s old tavern. George Manypenny, sr., is described by those who remember him as a vigorous, pushing and witty Irishman. He called once to see President Jefferson, and was invited by His Excellency to take a glass of wine with him, which he did without hesitancy, and to obtain a second glass, this story is told of him: As he was about to withdraw from the executive mansion he remarked to Mr. Jefferson that he was going home, and would tell his friends that he had the honor of taking two glasses with the President of the United States, and hoped His Excellency would not let him go home with a lie in his mouth. As the story goes, the old President saw the point of the ingenious suggestion, and again brought forward the wine.

The Walker house, corner of Broadway and Main streets, was kept as a tavern as early as 1816 by Zadoc Walker, who owned the property. General LaFayette was entertained at this house in 1825, and Santa Anna, the renowned Mexican warrior, stopped over night in it on his way to Washington City, about sixty years ago. This house has been kept at different times since by Andrew Byers, William Byers, Redding Bunting, and others. When Bunting kept it, it was called the “United States.” It has recently been enlarged and improved, and its name changed to the “Central.” Its first host under the new name was James I. Feather, who subsequently became associated with William A. McHugh. Its present lessees and managers are Messrs. Frock and Mitchell. The Spottsylvania house, for many years conducted prosperously by John Manaway, and afterward, until it closed, by Lloyd Mahaney, adjoined the Walker house on the west, and used a number of rooms belonging to that old hostelry.

AARON WYATT.

The McCleary house ranked high as an old-time inn or tavern. It is situate on the corner of Main and Arch streets, a substantial brick building, recently enlarged, embellished and improved, and at present catering to the public under the historic name of “Brunswick,” and conducted by Russell W. Beall, a gentleman admirably equipped for the business. Ewing McCleary owned and kept this old tavern as early as the year 1819, and many years thereafter. Upon his death, which occurred in this house, it was continued as a tavern under the management of his widow, until she became the wife of William Hart, when he took charge of it and kept it down to the year 1840, or thereabout, when he fell into disgrace and retired under a storm of popular reprobation. This house was a favorite stopping place of General Jackson. On an occasion a committee of citizens met Jackson on the road near town and tendered him the freedom of the municipality. Among other things made known to him by the committee, he was informed that quarters had been provided for his accommodation at the Walker House. He replied that he “always stopped at Hart’s.” “But,” rejoined the chairman of the committee, “Hart is a Whig, and his tavern a Whig house.” The old warrior answered back by saying that “Hart always treated him well, and he would go to his house,” and to Hart’s he went, reluctantly escorted by the Democratic committee. After Hart’s precipitate withdrawal from this old house, it was leased by S. B. Hays, subsequently of the Mansion and other old taverns in Washington, Pennsylvania. Hays conducted it for a brief period when it went into the possession of Joshua Marsh, who remained in charge not longer than a year or two, and left it to take charge of the National House. Its next occupant was the veteran Redding Bunting. After Bunting came Aaron Stone, then William Beatty, and after him William Gans. After Gans, Peter Uriah Hook was installed as landlord, who named the house “The Eagle,” and remained in charge a number of years. Hook was an eccentric man, given to redundancy of speech, a merchant, auctioneer, and for two years a member of the lower branch of the State legislature. He died in Uniontown, a number of years ago, but will not soon be forgotten. Aaron Wyatt succeeded Hook, and kept the house until his death. His widow and son James succeeded to the management, and James dying in the house, it passed to the hands of his widow, Mrs. Kate Wyatt, and from her to Russell W. Beall, the present occupant.

The before-mentioned old taverns were of the town, rather than of the road. Most of them were in existence and doing business before the road was made. The remaining old taverns of Uniontown, hereafter mentioned, were essentially taverns of the National Road, and derived their principal patronage from it.

The Swan, Nathaniel Brownfield proprietor, is an old, long frame building, at the west end of town, supplemented some years after it commenced business, by a brick addition to the eastern end. Thomas Brownfield, father of Nathaniel, the present proprietor, and grandfather on the maternal side, of the author of this volume, kept this old tavern as early as 1805, and down to the year 1829. When the National Road was opened for business, this house became a wagon stand, and continued such until the last crack of a Battelly White whip was heard on the road. It was provided with two commodious wagon yards, one at the front, on the roadside opposite the house, and the other between the house and the large stable in the rear. With the exception of one year that this old tavern was kept by William Cox, Nathaniel Brownfield, who was born under its roof, has kept it, uninterruptedly, from the date of his father’s death, and “holds the fort” to this day, “with none to molest or make him afraid.” Upwards of eighty, and in vigorous health, he has witnessed and participated in the exciting scenes of the road from the beginning to the end thereof. At an early period he became the owner of a farm consisting of one hundred acres adjacent to town, which he managed advantageously in connection with his tavern, and within the past year sold for the sum of one thousand and five dollars per acre, retaining his old tavern stand, to which he is attached by so many memories. His wife and good helpmate survives with him, and together they occupy the old tavern and recount with varied emotions the stirring scenes of the eventful past.

The McClelland House, as has been elsewhere stated, is one of the best known old taverns on the National Road. It is located on the north side of the Main street, and in the western end of town. As early as 1795, Richard Weaver kept a tavern in a wooden building on the lot now covered by the McClelland House, and was succeeded by William McClelland. William McClelland was keeping this old tavern in 1802, and owned the lot on which it stood at that date in fee simple. After the death of William McClelland his son, Alfred, came into possession, tore down the old building, and erected in its stead the present brick building, known always thereafter as the McClelland House. This house was the headquarters of the Good Intent line of stages, from the time it was put on the road until it was withdrawn at the end of the road’s career as a national highway. Alfred McClelland presided over this house and controlled it from the date of its erection until he died, with the exception of brief intervals mentioned below. He was a large, raw-boned man, of agreeable, though somewhat awkward manners, and had complete knowledge of the mysterious art of keeping a tavern. He had for his main clerk and bar-keeper, Macon W. Rine, a confidential and loyal friend, well remembered by the older citizens of Uniontown, as a thoroughly competent man for his employment. Alfred McClelland died on the 8th of September, 1862. In the intervals before mentioned, the McClelland House was kept for a short time previous to 1840 by S. B. Hays, before he took control of the old McCleary House. Thereafter, at different times, the house was kept by Jerry Colflesh, Lewis D. Beall, William and Thomas Swan, J. W. Kissinger, Calvin Springer, William Wyatt, Kim Frey, Russell Frey, Frey and Swan, Joseph C. Stacy and Charles H. Rush, in the order named. It is at present conducted, as elsewhere stated, by Mrs. Sarah E. McClelland, widow of the old proprietor, and retains all its ancient prestige, under her admirable management.

THE BROWNFIELD HOUSE.

The Seaton House was a familiar hostelry in the olden time. It was founded by James C. Seaton in the year 1820, or thereabout. It is located on the northeast corner of Main and Arch streets, diagonally opposite the old McCleary House, and is now known as the West End Hotel. Mr. Seaton, the old proprietor, came to Uniontown from Virginia, and died in this old house many years ago. The house was built in sections at different times until it reached its present large proportions. During its occupancy by Mr. Seaton it was a wagon stand of the National Road, and extensively patronized. It was provided with ample grounds for wagons and teams to stand on, which are now covered by the Lingo block and other buildings in the vicinity. Mr. Seaton had three sons: Hiram, James, and John. Hiram was the old toll collector before mentioned, and James was a pike boy in a general way. He drove stage occasionally, and also the express; led horses from station to station on the road, and made himself useful in many other ways. He died at his father’s old tavern in the meridian of the bright era of the road, and before he had reached middle age. John Seaton, the other son, went west, and died recently in Nebraska. Daniel Collier, before mentioned as keeper of the old tavern at Mount Augusta, was a son-in-law of James C. Seaton; and Charles H. Seaton, the well known insurance agent of Uniontown, is a great-grandson of the old proprietor, and others of his descendants are still living in Uniontown and vicinity. After Mr. Seaton’s death this old tavern was continued a number of years by his widow, and growing old she leased it to James Swan, who conducted it for a brief period, Mrs. Seaton boarding with him in the house. Mr. Swan was succeeded by Philip D. Stentz, and he in turn by J. W. Kissinger, Kim Frey, David G. Sperry, John Messmore and Henry Jennings. The late James T. Redburn bought the property from the Seaton heirs and sold it to John Messmore, who in turn sold it to Henry Jennings. It is now owned and kept by George Titlow, under the name of the West End Hotel, as before stated, well conducted and well patronized.

The old National House is located on the northwest corner of Morgantown and Fayette streets. It was built for a private residence by the late Hon. Thomas Irwin, and occupied by him as such until he was appointed Judge of the United States District Court for the Western district of Pennsylvania, when he moved to Pittsburg. Judge Irwin sold the property to the celebrated Dr. John F. Braddee, of mail robbing notoriety, and he occupied it during the period covered by his depredations upon the mail bags. Its situation for such operations was convenient, as it adjoined the old Stockton stage yard hereinbefore described. After Braddee’s conviction L. W. Stockton acquired title to the property, and subsequently sold and conveyed it to Joshua Marsh, who opened it as a tavern. It was the headquarters of the Stockton line of stages from the time it was opened until all stage lines were withdrawn from the road. James K. Polk, with his family and traveling companions, stopped over night at The National when on his way to the capital to be inaugurated President, in the spring of 1845. A large number of citizens assembled on the occasion to meet the coming President, and were addressed by him from the high steps in front of the house. The National was a well kept house. Situate a distance from the main street, it was comparatively exempt from the ordinary street noises, and conducted in a quiet manner, disturbed only by the arrival and departure of the stage coaches. Mr. Marsh, its old proprietor, was a man of retiring disposition, gentle manners, and feeble health. He visited Washington when Mr. Buchanan was inaugurated President, and was one of the unfortunates who were poisoned on that occasion at the National Hotel of that place. He returned home, but never fully recovered from the effects of the poison, and died in Uniontown. Among others who kept the National were George Evans and Col. Samuel Elder. The latter is still living, a hale octogenarian, at Ligonier Westmoreland county, Pa.

The Clinton House, which stood on a lot adjoining the old Court House, was a popular house throughout its whole career. It was demolished in 1890 by condemnation proceedings, and the lot on which it stood taken by the county for the use of the new Court House. It was erected in 1835 by the late Hon. Andrew Stewart, who occupied it as a private residence and kept his law office in it for a number of years. It was first kept as a tavern by Andrew Byers, and after him, from time to time, until its demolition, by Stephen W. Snyder, whose wife was a Risler, Zadoc Cracraft, Isaac Kerr, Jesse B. Gardner, John Bierer, Calvin Springer, Springer & Renshaw, Bernard Winslow, William Springer, Joseph Wright, J. R. Thornton, and James I. Feather. General Taylor stopped over night at the Clinton House in 1849, en route to Washington to assume the office of President of the United States. It was kept at that time by Andrew Byers.

COL. SAMUEL ELDER.

The Moran House is the old Fulton House, opposite the Court House, on Elbow or Main street. Like the old Seaton House, the Fulton was built in sections, some of them by Seth Howell and others by his predecessors. Seth Howell kept this house a long time. He was called “Flinger,” because he had a habit of flinging disorderly persons out of the house, as he termed the process of ejecting. Howell was succeeded by Calvin Springer, and he by William Thorndell, who became the owner of the property. David Mahaney came in after Thorndell, Michael Carter after Mahaney, and it next passed to the hands of James Moran, its present occupant and owner, who gave it the name of the Moran House. This old tavern was always well patronized, and continues to be under its present proprietor, who has added many improvements, and the house is in better shape now than at any time heretofore.

The name Mahaney has long been identified with the National Road. The Mahaney House was built and is conducted by Lloyd Mahaney, a son of David, elsewhere mentioned. It is the newest hotel in Uniontown, and the finest in architectural display. It is a hotel, having come into existence after the old inns and taverns had been relegated to the dead past. It is located on a lot formerly owned and occupied by George Ebbert, adjoining the present National Bank of Fayette County on the east, and is on the south side of Main street. It is well managed and does a large business, and is likewise one of the best of the many recent improvements in Uniontown, and reflects credit on its proprietor.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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