Sampan—Description of junk—Preserved eggs—Reception from the English—H. M. S. Blonde—Mrs. Noble—Leave Chusan—Narrow escape—H. M. S. Samarang—Leave Macao—Arrive at Spithead.

On getting outside the gate, we found an immense crowd assembled; they did not molest us in the least, but we passed on very quietly. We were taken through a different quarter of the town to any I had been in before, but the streets were built and ornamented in the same manner; they were lined, on both sides, with such a number of people, that where they could all have come from I could not imagine. We went on thus till we came to the gates of the city, where the mandarins were assembled to see us pass out. The walls were about eighteen feet thick, and twenty-five feet high; but the materials (stones and bricks) seemed so loosely put together, that a swivel might very soon have made a breach in them.

We were now in the suburbs, and close to the river, to which we were taken; and each sedan being placed in a separate boat, we were soon ferried across. The river here was divided into two branches, across one of which we had just been carried; and we went down the left bank of the other; it was about the breadth of the Thames at Westminster. As they conveyed me over, I got out of the sedan, and looked back at the place of my imprisonment. It seemed a large town, walled all round; but in some places the walls were in a very ruinous condition. On the ramparts and plain, outside the city, were thousands and thousands of people.

We were carried down by the water-side, still in our sedans; and as it was a cold day, and there was a good stiff breeze right in our faces, I got out of the sedan, and walked between the poles. I observed that I was not the only one, for I saw that all the white men were walking also; the Lascars, having their legs still chained, were unable to walk. The people in the villages turned out everywhere in great numbers, to stare at us.

The crops were in some places beginning to make their appearance, and almost every inch of ground was cultivated; all that appeared bad unprofitable land was covered with tombs, and particularly the sides of the hills; in summer, the white tombs peeping out from the high grass and shrubs would have a very picturesque effect. The coffins were placed on the ground, and some were covered over with bamboo and matting; a very slight defence, which in many instances had given way, and left parts of the coffins exposed; other graves had square tombs over them, built of brick, and covered with a slab of red stone; but in some of these the bricks had given way, and the slab falling in on the coffin, had burst it open: others being, I suppose, for the superior class, were built entirely of stone, curiously and rather tastefully ornamented. The coffins being made of slight materials, the smell on passing the burial places was very unpleasant.

We continued our journey, sometimes walking, sometimes in the sedan, the officers scarcely ever allowing the bearers to rest, and indeed beating them severely with sticks, and their heavy sheathed swords, if they stopped for even a moment without leave. The old jailer was with us, in a sedan, and seeing us walking, he spoke to the officer commanding the party, who came and made signs for us to get into the sedans; but it was far too cold for an open carriage, and besides, after so long a confinement, the walk was agreeable. About dusk we came to the gate of another city, walled round in the same manner as Ningpo. We passed through several streets till we came to a large joshouse, before which a number of people were assembled. We went into the outer court, and perceived, by the sedans, that many mandarins and other officers were within. Passing through a building in which were four colossal figures, about twenty feet high, and painted in Chinese style, we came to another yard, out of which Mrs. Noble and Mr. Witts were taken in sedans just as we entered. I heard them speaking, but they went past so quickly, that by the time I had jumped out of my sedan, they were gone. I saw Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther, who told me that we were all to be released immediately, and that Mrs. Noble and Mr. Witts had already started for Chusan, whither we were to follow as soon as possible.

The interpreter then made his appearance, and desired me to follow him; this I did, and soon found myself in the grand hall of the temple, in the presence of a number of mandarins and other officers. The other prisoners were here; and another interpreter, whom I had never seen before, came round and asked our names and country; he could also speak Bengalee, and therefore interpreted for the Lascars. They then took the irons off the Lascars' legs, and after the mandarins had looked at us for a short time, they took their departure, leaving us, with a few officers, in the temple. I now had time to look about, and found I was in a large hall, in the centre of which were three colossal figures, gilded all over, very much resembling in appearance the Hindostanee idols; under them was a smaller figure of a woman, painted in gaudy colours, and on each side of her a small model of a temple. Round the hall were other images, placed in niches, and amongst them I particularly noticed one of a woman, with a glory round her head, and holding a child in her arms, bearing altogether, a strong resemblance to the virgin and child; two others sat side by side, of rather singular appearance, one having a black face and hands, with a white dress, and the other a white face and hands, and a black dress.

Several torches were placed in different parts of the wall, and the flickering light from these, glancing over the gilded images and the rich dresses of the officers, contrasted with our miserable appearance, produced rather a singular scene. We did not remain here long, for we soon had to return to our sedans, and were carried to the head mandarin's house, to wait till a junk was ready for us. On the way to his residence, I came to an open space, and before me could see a number of small lights dancing about. I imagined this to be the river, and the lights to be in boats, particularly as there was a curious noise exactly like an immense number of ducks feeding; but, on approaching nearer, I found myself in a camp, pitched on a large plain. I was carried between two long rows of small tents, and before every other tent was a sentinel, with a piece of bamboo in one hand, and a stick in the other, with which he incessantly struck the bamboo, and thereby caused the clacking noise which had deceived me. Before every tenth tent another sentinel was stationed with a gong, which he struck at intervals; they were keeping the first watch of the night, which was about eight o'clock of our time. Having passed through the camp, we came to the mandarin's house, and were conducted into a court, where we found Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther. A piazza ran round this court, and under it we sat, having the pleasure of seeing the mandarins' supper taken in, but none was brought for us, and we had had nothing to eat since the morning.

Through Lieut. Douglas's remonstrances, a few cakes and some hard-boiled eggs were at length presented to us; and Lieut. Douglas, going to one of his boxes, brought out two bottles of rum, which were very acceptable, and helped to pass away the time till twelve o'clock, at which hour we left the house.

Lieut. Douglas here told me that several plans had been arranged for our escape from Ningpo, but, from the known treachery of the Chinese, they had been dropped. Others also for the escape of Mrs. Noble and the officers had been concerted, and Mrs. Noble's jailer had even been bribed to connive at the plan; but they most generously refused to go, and leave us to the mercy of the Chinese. He also told me he had many times tried to come to us again, but that the mandarins would never allow him; they assured him, however, that our condition was materially improved, that we had three or four hours' liberty every day, better food, and a more comfortable apartment, all of which was false. The unfortunate captive compradore the mandarins refused to give up at this time, but said they would send him down to Canton, to be given up there.

The mandarin (whom I understood to be commissioner E.) having by this time finished his supper, came to have a look at us. He desired the interpreter to tell us "that he was very good to us, and was sending us away before the time; that he himself was going to leave the island, and another mandarin, the emperor's cousin, was coming in his place; that if he arrived before our departure, he would most probably keep us, and not let us go at all: at the same time he desired Lieut. Douglas to tell the commanding officer at Chusan, to withdraw his men and ships as soon as we were given up to them; also that a great many soldiers would march into Chusan as soon as our fleet left." We then walked out, about midnight, to go to the junk; on our way down, we passed through two long files of soldiers, drawn up on each side of the road, most unmilitary looking warriors; their only uniform was a loose jacket, with some Chinese characters inscribed on the back and front; the rest of their dress seemed left to their own taste, and a motley group they were. They appeared to be divided into three bands, one bearing long unwieldy spears, another bows and arrows, and the third having a sword in each hand; these, the interpreter told us, were to embark the next day for Chusan. At the end of each file of soldiers a huge gun was placed, of immense thickness, but small calibre, not carrying, I should think, more than a twenty-four pound shot, if so much.

When we arrived at the water's edge, we found a sampan, or small boat, waiting; the Lascars and most of the Europeans having preceded us, Lieut. Douglas, Captain Anstruther, myself, and the others, got into the sampan, and were soon sculled alongside a junk, which the interpreter, who was with us, told us was only waiting for high water (which would be about three o'clock A. M.) to get under weigh. Mrs. Noble, and Mr. Witts, our chief mate, who had preceded us, were in one junk; the Lascars, who had also reached the water before us, were in another; and our party, Lieut. Douglas, Captain Anstruther, and the Europeans, got aboard of the third. Here we found our rugs, and after partaking of some slight refreshment, in the shape of hot water and sweet cakes, we lay down to sleep. About three o'clock the junk was got under weigh, and when I got up in the morning I found that we were out of the river, and sailing between some islands, and the interpreter told us we should soon be at Chusan.

The vessel was covered over with tilts, made of split bamboo, leaving only the forecastle and poop exposed; under the forecastle-deck was the tank, and on deck was a sampan, which could be launched at will. The poop was a very small place, there being only room enough to work the tiller; and when the wind was adverse, the long tiller was unshipped, and a short one used instead, and the vessel propelled by means of a large sweep, which five or six men handled, sculling in the same manner as we do. The sails were made of cotton, with an immense number of bowlines, and the tilts were sufficiently strong to allow the men to walk upon them, and stow or set the mainsail.

Under the covering were three divisions, or holds, in the foremost of which the soldiers, our guard, and the crew were; in the middle one a number of boxes (the cargo, I presume) were stowed, and in the third we ten Europeans were. Abaft this was the cabin, which Captain Anstruther, Lieut. Douglas, the interpreter, a mandarin, and the captain of the vessel, occupied.

Breakfast was set before us about eight o'clock, consisting of rice, very white, and well boiled, pig's cheek in small pieces, eggs, preserved, I think, in lard, as they were very greasy, pickled fish, and various other things; had I not been able to distinguish the mark of division between the yolk and white of the eggs, I should not have discovered what they were, as they certainly had neither the taste nor appearance of eggs, being of a deep chocolate colour; however, they, and all the other things, were very good, and we made an excellent breakfast.

The Chinese now pointed out whereabouts Chusan lay, and we saw, over a point of land, the masts of some English vessels. About ten o'clock we rounded the point, and got into the bay, where several men-of-war and transports were lying; we soon were abreast of them, and a boat from one of the men-of-war came alongside, and finding that we were on board, made a signal to their vessel, when the lower rigging was manned, and they gave us three cheers; on seeing this, the other men-of-war and transports did the same, and the bands on board the transports struck up "Rule Brittania." What my feelings were at the moment may more easily be imagined than described; after five months' imprisonment I was once more free, and in the hands of my own countrymen. I was pennyless, and I might also say naked, for I knew that the clothes I had on would have to be thrown away; but I was going amongst Englishmen, and at that time no anxiety for the future troubled me.

We Europeans were taken on board of H. M. S. Blonde, captain Bourchier, where we were rejoiced to meet Mrs. Noble again, and congratulate each other on our liberation. Mrs. Noble the same day left us, and went on board a transport: I went to see her again at Macao, where she remained. Lieut. Douglas and Mr. Witts remained on board the Blonde, Captain Anstruther went to a transport, and joined his regiment, and the Lascars were sent on board another transport.

The next day we left Chusan, and arrived in a few days at the entrance of the Canton river, where H. M. S. Columbine informed us that hostilities had again commenced, and that the forts at the Bogue had been taken a week before.

A short time afterwards we heard that, two days after our release from Ningpo, an order had arrived there from the emperor of China, that all the prisoners were to be sent to Pekin, to be publicly exhibited, and then put to death, by being cut into a thousand pieces.

Report also said that Commissioner E., who had rather hurried our departure, had been sent in irons to the capital for having released us.

The Blonde proceeded up to Whampoa, and I was on board of her altogether a month, when, at our request, we were sent down to Macao in the Hebe tender, where we saw Captain Elliot, the Plenipotentiary, and Lieut. Douglas. They procured a passage for Twizell, Webb, Wombwell, and myself to England, in H. M. S. Samarang, Captain Scott; but afterwards, Twizell having gone ashore to buy some clothes for us, the ship got under weigh, and he was left behind.

We left Macao on the 29th March, 1841, and having touched at the Mauritius, St. Helena, and Ascension, anchored at Spithead on Monday, the 10th August. On Wednesday we left the ship, and proceeded to London.

To Lieut. Douglas and Captain Anstruther I shall ever feel most grateful for their kindness towards us, and their unceasing endeavours to ameliorate the miserable condition of their fellow-prisoners at Ningpo.