[1] See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix.

[2] The post league has already been stated to contain 3 English miles, and 807 yards.

[3] Town-hall.

[4] Lobster-hunting—such is the name for Locust in Spanish.

[5] Or Genua urbanorum.—Pliny.

[6] Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. LXI.

[7] In an abundant house supper is soon cooked.

[8] Red pepper.

[9] Cabbage.

[10] A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna.

[11] Bacon.—Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, which may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, chesnuts, and Indian corn.

[12] No vain boast—the fact being established on the testimony of Rocca.

[13] Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c.

[14] Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus—not the Ilipa of Strabo and Pliny, situated on the river Boetis, and in the county of Seville.

[15] The orchard.

[16] Evil doer.

[17] Alleys.

[18] The dead body.

[19] Roguish.

[20] La MartiniÈre fell into a strange error in describing this river and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the bay of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso’s victory some fifty miles from Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors.

[21] Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the Turduli, within the county of Cordoba.

[22] A ruined town, no longer inhabited.

[23] By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 Stadia.

[24] Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called Besippo, thus, “BÆsaro Tauilla dicte BÆsippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, BÆsippo, &c.;” but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first “Belippo.”

[25] There is no Epidemic here.

[26] There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but they are not always passable in winter.

[27] Toll-house.

[28] Strabo.

[29] This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade of Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our government.

[30] Shops where ice is sold.

[31] I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an economical way to render it serviceable.

[32] Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the Isla de Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god.

[33] 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this place.

[34] The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more impracticable bar.

[35] 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the vineyards of Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000.

[36] Camomile.

[37] Mother.

[38] So called from the town of Montilla, whence the grape, that originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, was brought to Xeres.

[39] Carthusian convent.

[40] Strabo and Pliny.

[41] A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, however, is not the case here.

[42] Water-courses, which are dry in summer.

[43] Written Vrgia by Pliny—Vcia by Ptolemy.

[44] Itin. Anton.

[45] EspaÑa Sagrada.

[46] This supposes the earth’s circumference to have been reckoned 240,000 stadia, giving 83? miles to a degree of the meridian. By the calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the earth was 252,000 stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87½ miles to a degree.

[47] Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation of this place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, on the banks of the Guadalete. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but nearly three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the Guadalquivir.

[48] The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is larger, but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, properly speaking, the Episcopal church.

[49] A long time since.

[50] In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation that is suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such writers as Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not once more become a popular place of resort.

[51] Farce; but, literally, goÛt, highly seasoned dish.

[52] Low and disorderly people.

[53] Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c.

[54] Old Seville.

[55] De Bell. Civ.

[56] Hollond—intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, since the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank of the GuadalquivÍr; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river.

[57] The gallant and talented author of the “History of the Peninsular War” has fallen into some slight topographical errors (caused, probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) in describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon his position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville and Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the Spanish army), along “a road by Moron, shorter” than that leading to the same place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron being “shorter,” it is yet more circuitous than the chaussÉe; and, moreover, by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad and hilly.

He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back from Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, taking Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out of the direct road. A French account (La PÈne, Campagne de 1810) says, the Spanish army fell back from Carmona “par le chemin le plus direct, Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres,"—an error equally glaring, for the chaussÉe is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;—in fact, it is as direct as a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on the left! We may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant accounts, that the main body of the duke’s army retreated from Utrera to Xeres by the chaussÉe; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right flank during the march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the troops withdrawn from Seville, as being the most direct route from that city to Xeres.

[58] Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining that, in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct roads were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence it was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the SerranÍa de Ronda to Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by UlÍa. Florez, however, disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, and that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but merely as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. But why, if such were the case, a road should have been made that increased the distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, he does not explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don Maldonado Saavedra’s supposition is the more probable. The distances, however, between the modern places which he has named as corresponding with those mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he also, in laying down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it unnecessarily circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer much better with those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line connecting them is one of the most practicable through the SerranÍa.

Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic.

[59] Olbera, according to Saavedra.

[60] This disagreement with the heading is in the original.

[61] Cura de los Palacios.

[62] The diminutive of Venta.

[63] Are they English?

[64] Literally—on which foot the business was lame.

[65]

[66] Name and surname.

[67] Beneficed clergyman.

[68] Glance—from ojo, eye.

[69] Good for study.

[70] The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine that Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like Christianos Viejos, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman—far removed from a low station in life, however—who was perfectly horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a Jew. Her exclamation of “Jesus!” was in a key which seemed to express wonder that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad success which has attended the Cristina arms is attributed by the lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the Jewish blood flowing in the veins of SeÑor Mendizabel.

[71] Mapping the town.

[72] A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an arm-chair, placed sideways on a horse’s back, with a board to rest the feet upon.

[73] Female attendant.

[74] Managing person.

[75] Ages ago.

[76] Many Roman Emperors.

[77] As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and other very distinguished persons.

[78] Palacios, posadas, y todo—i.e., palaces, inns, and every thing.

[79] Throughout Spain.

[80] For every thing it has a cure—look you, &c.

[81] Youngster.

[82] The poor old Tio could not have acted under “proper directions,” as I am informed that he died the year following my last visit to the Hedionda.

[83] I drink no other—never any other—I cook and every thing with it.

[84] Even to its bad smell.

[85] Little walk.

[86] A game that bears some resemblance to Boston.

[87] The Invalid.

[88] The water—nothing but the water—there is nothing in the world more salutary.

[89] They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are so many in England.

[90] Heaps of gold.

[91] To me it appears.

[92] The Spaniards considered tea a medicine.

[93] A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed.

[94] Yes, sir; that is true.

[95] Pastures.

[96] There are many robbers hereabouts—last year (accursed be these rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in this confounded narrow pass, &c.

[97] These beggarly Spaniards, &c.

[98] Young lady of the house.

[99] Very well combed, literally—her hair well dressed.

[100] Unequalled.

[101] A young girl I am bringing up for (i. e. to be) a countess.

[102] Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load—these cowardly Spaniards always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we shall be all netted, like so many little birds.—We are all well armed with double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to fear—but ...! prudence is necessary.

[103] In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to be met with; that sort of canaille know too well who Louis de Castro is.

[104] A gazpacho, eaten hot.

[105] Literally, beds—spots frequented by the deer.

[106] Wolf.

[107] The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the cama, as well as the haunt of the game.

[108] A day of foxes—an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, signifying an unlucky day.

[109] Literally, light—here used as “fire!”

[110] A wild boar! zounds!

[111] Yes, it is a sow.

[112] To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning.

[113] The war-cry of the Spaniards.

[114] I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest possible time all will be ready.

[115] Very dear friend of mine; aprec’ion, abbreviation of apreciacion; esteem.

[116] Go you with God ... and without a horse.

[117] An ounce; i. e. a doubloon.

[118] Get down directly.

[119] Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it not true, good father?

[120] “It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not true, Don Diego, that that rocky path beyond AlcalÀ is called the road to the infernal regions?” “Yes, yes—as true as holy writ.”

[121] Rock of Sancho.

[122] The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near Tarifa, is called El Salado, par excellence, in consequence of the great victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly speaking, it is El Salado de Tarifa.

[123] Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7.

[124] Ibid. cap. 8.

[125] Dion—Lib. 48.

[126] Dion and Hirtius.

[127] Cap. 27.

[128] Singilia Hegua, corrected by Hardouin to Singili Ategua.—The ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) to the north of Antequera.

[129] It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the French entered the town and levied a contribution.

[130] Scanty vecinos—a vecino, used as a statistical term, implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The Spanish computation of population is always made by vecinos.

[131] He does not understand.

[132] Have no anxiety.

[133] Mapping the country.

[134] Town.

[135] Fair and softly.

[136] Nonsense.

[137] Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her opinion on this point will have undergone a material change—like that of most Spaniards.

[138] With polite mien and deportment.

[139] What a rare people are these English!

[140] Mentioned by Hirtius—Bell. Hisp. Cap. XXVII.

[141] The salutary waters of the divine Genil.—Don Quijote.

[142] Dion and Hirtius.

[143] Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old editions of Pliny.

[144] Foreign gentlemen.

[145] The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a mill, and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground.

[146] These Salvo conductos were by no means uncommon in those days. A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the protection of the celebrated JosÉ Maria.

[147] Forward, forward, heartless deceiver!

[148] There is no wedding without its morrow’s festival.

[149]

[150] Holy face.

[151] Uninhabited place.

[152] Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia.

[153] Distant fourteen miles from the GuadalquivÍr.

[154] Illiturgi quod Forum Julium.—Pliny.

[155] Titus Livius, lib. 28.

[156] Pliny.

[157] To the parlour! to the parlour!

[158] Be not afraid.

[159] Stew.

[160] Literally, that he could no more.

[161] I, the king.

[162] With us, I am sorry to say, “the honour of knighthood” has, in too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many years’ good salary received, than of any meritorious service performed.

[163] A very small copper coin.

[164] And this is a teapot!

[165] A pillow!

[166] What voluptuous people!

[167] A stone—a flint.

[168] How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, save steam!

[169] The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of Wellington, as a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services rendered by him to the Spanish nation.

[170] Santa FÉ, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of Granada, and dignified by them with the title of city, is a wretched little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants; and, excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic kings contained in the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice.

[171] Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we conversed with.

[172] Itinerary of Antoninus.

Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, one branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by the latter 186.

[173] Pliny.

[174] Published in 1765.

[175] “Two leagues” are his words—meaning Spanish measure, or eight miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles.

[176] Otherwise called Horgarganta.

[177] Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have stood, i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to the westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter.

[178] Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel.

[179] Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it.

[180] This may appear at variance with what I have said in computing the distance from Malaca to Calpe CarteÍa in Roman miles—viz., only eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of the meridian: but, besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is at least three English miles greater than to CarteÍa, the measurement I here give is along a winding pathway, that makes the distance considerably more than it would have been by a properly made road, even though it had followed all the irregularities of the coast.

[181] Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix.

[182] Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga.

[183] Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be seen about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long before that work was compiled.

[184] Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq.

[185] Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in enumerating the strength of contending armies in those early times, since even in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is so extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo offers a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts agree as to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I have read—a French one, of course—swells the force under the Duke of Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!!

[186] The inscription is given at length in Florez EspaÑa Sagrada.

[187] The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the river.

[188] Certainly not Mr. Carter’s, than which I never saw a more complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon it, and the towns are scattered about where chance directed.

[189] Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii.

[190] Ibid. xli.

[191] An account of which place has already been given in Chapter I. of this volume.

[192] “Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of Castile, Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, Toledo, Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, Corsica, Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great Ocean; archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count of Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and Molina, &c."—The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this “&c.” is admirable.

[193] Clean blood.

[194] At any price.

[195] These love affairs are much to my taste.

[196] Attractions—literally, hooking qualities.

[197] In fine—as it was captain for captain.

[198] Not a bit.

[199] Would to God!

[200] Eating her life.

[201] A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 yards.

[202] To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles.

[203] This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable for a carriage.