CONTENTS

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ChapterI Tangier—Country People—The Pilgrimage to Mecca—Moorish Prisons—We Ride to Cape Spartel—Decide to Leave Tangier and Push Inland 1
ChapterII Camp Outfit—A Night at a Caravanserai—Tetuan—The British Vice-Consul—Moorish Shops—We Visit a Moorish House and Family 27
ChapterIII Difficulties of "Lodgings" in Morocco—A Spanish Fonda—A Moorish Tea Party—Poison in the Cup—Slaves in Morocco—El Doollah—Moorish Cemetery—Ride to Semsar—Shopping in Tetuan—Provisions in the City 63
ChapterIV The Fast of RÁmadhan—Mohammed—His Life and Influence—The Flood at Saffi—A Walk Outside Tetuan—The French Consul's Garden-House—Jews in Morocco—European Protection 97
ChapterV Plans for Christmas at Gibraltar—A Rough Night—The Steamer which would not Wait—An Ignominious Return to Tetuan—A Rascally Jew—The Aborigines and the Present Occupants of Morocco—The Sultan, Court, Government, and Moorish Army 121
ChapterVI We Look Over a Moorish Courtyard House with a View to Taking It—We Rent Jinan Dolero in Spite of Opposition—An Englishman Murdered—Our Garden-House—The Idiosyncrasies of Moorish Servants—A Native Guard—The Riff Country 153
ChapterVII Country People Fording the River—We Call on Ci Hamed Ghralmia—An Expedition across the River in Search of the Blue Pool—Moorish Belief in Ginns—The Basha—Powder Play—Tetuan Prison 181
ChapterVIII Missionaries at Tetuan—Poisoning in Morocco—Fatima's Reception—Divorce—An Expedition into the Anjeras—An Emerald Oasis 217
ChapterIX We Leave Tetuan—A Wet Night under the Stars—S`lam Deserts Us—We Sail for Mogador—The Palm-Tree House—Sus and Wadnoon Countries—The Sahara—The Atlas Mountains 249
ChapterX On the March Once More—Buying Mules—A Bad Road—First Camp—Argan-Trees—Coos-Coosoo—A Terrible Night—Doctoring the Khaylifa—Roughing it Under Canvas 281
ChapterXI A Parting Mona—Fording Sheshaoua River—Jars of Food—First Sight of Marrakesh—A Perilous Crossing—Ride into Marrakesh—The Slave Market 311
ChapterXII The Thursday Market—We Might have gone to Glaouia—Leave Marrakesh and set out on Our Last March for the Coast—Flowers in Morocco—On the Wrong Trail—Arab Tents—Good-Bye to El Moghreb 339


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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