The Cathedrals of Northern Spain / Their History and Their Architecture; Together with Much of Interest Concerning the Bishops, Rulers and Other Personages Identified with Them

Copyright, 1905
By L. C. Page & Company
(INCORPORATED)
——
All rights reserved

Published October, 1905

COLONIAL PRESS
Electrotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co.
Boston, U. S. A.

TO ALL TRUE
LOVERS OF SPAIN,
OTHERWISE CALLED
HISPANÓFILOS

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PREFACE

It is À la mode to write prefaces. Some of us write good ones, others bad, and most of us write neither good nor bad ones.

The chapter entitled "General Remarks" is the real introduction to the book, so in these lines I shall pen a few words of self-introduction to such readers as belong to the class to whom I have dedicated this volume.

My love for Spain is unbounded. As great as is my love for the people, so great also is my depreciation for those who have wronged her, being her sons. Who are they? They know that best themselves.

Spain's architecture is both agreeable and disagreeable, but it is all of it peculiarly Spanish. A foreigner, dropping as by accident across the Pyrenees from France, can do nothing better than criticize all architectural monuments he meets with in a five days' journey across Spain with a Cook's ticket in his pocketbook. It is natural he should do so. Everything is so totally different from{4} the pure (sic) styles he has learned to admire in France!

But we who have lived years in Spain grow to like and admire just such complex compositions as the cathedrals of Toledo, of Santiago, and La Seo in Saragosse; we lose our narrow-mindedness, and fail to see why a pure Gothic or an Italian Renaissance should be better than an Iberian cathedral. As long as harmony exists between the different parts, all is well. The moment this harmony does not exist, our sense of the artistically beautiful is shocked—and the building is a bad one.

Personality is consequently ever uppermost in all art criticism or admiration. But it should not be influenced by the words pure, flawless, etc. Were such to be the case, there would be but one good cathedral in Spain, namely, that of Leon, a French temple built by foreigners on Spanish soil. Yet nothing is less Spanish than the cathedral of Leon.

Under the circumstances, it is necessary, upon visiting Spain, to discard foreignisms and turn a Spaniard, if but for a few days. Otherwise the tourist will not understand the country's art monuments, and will be inclined{5} to leave the peninsula as he entered it, not a whit the wiser for having come.

To help the traveller to understand the whys and wherefores of Spanish architecture, I have written the "Introductory Studies." I hope they will enable him to become a Spaniard, or, at least, to join the enthusiastic army of HispanÓfilos.

C. Rudy.

Madrid, July, 1905

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CONTENTS

CHAPTER   PAGE
  Part I. Introductory Studies  
I. General Remarks 13
II. Historical Arabesques 18
III. Architectural Arabesques 35
IV. Conclusion 66
 
Part II. Galicia
 
I. Santiago de Campostela 75
II. Corunna 89
III. MondoÑedo 95
IV. Lugo 102
V. Orense 110
VI. Tuy 120
VII. Bayona and Vigo 131
 
Part III. The North
 
I. Oviedo 137
II. Covadonga 145
III. Leon 150
IV. Astorga 167
V. Burgos 174
VI. Santander 188
VII. Vitoria 192{8}
VIII. Upper Rioja 196
IX. Soria 209
 
Part IV. Western Castile
 
I. Palencia 219
II. Zamora 230
III. Toro 244
IV. Salamanca 251
V. Ciudad Rodrigo 269
VI. Coria 278
VII. Plasencia 284
 
Part V. Eastern Castile
 
I. Valladolid 293
II. Avila 302
III. Segovia 312
IV. Madrid-AlcalÁ 321
V. SigÜenza 335
VI. Cuenca 342
VII. Toledo 349
  Appendices 369
  Bibliography 385
  Index 387

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Leon Cathedral (See page 154) Frontispiece
Cloister Stalls in a Monastic Church at Leon 48
Typical Retablo (Palencia) 50
Mudejar Architecture (Sahagun) 64
Santiago and Its Cathedral 82
Church of Santiago, Corunna 92
General View of MondoÑedo 96
MondoÑedo Cathedral 98
Northern Portal of Orense Cathedral 116
Tuy Cathedral 128
Oviedo Cathedral 140
Cloister of Oviedo Cathedral 144
Apse of San Isidoro, Leon 164
Burgos Cathedral 180
Crypt of Santander Cathedral 190
Cloister of NÁjera Cathedral 202
Santa Maria la Redonda, LogroÑo 204
Western Front of Calahorra Cathedral 207
Cloister of Soria Cathedral 212
Palencia Cathedral 226
Zamora Cathedral 238
Toro Cathedral 248
Old Salamanca Cathedral 260{10}
New Salamanca Cathedral 266
Cuidad Rodrigo Cathedral 272
FaÇade of Plasencia Cathedral 288
Western Front of Valladolid Cathedral 300
Tower of Avila Cathedral 310
Segovia Cathedral 316
San Isidro, Madrid 326
AlcalÁ de Henares Cathedral 332
Toledo Cathedral 360

PART I

Introductory Studies

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