Town of Chagres—Its inhabitants—Trip to New Orleans—Thence up the Mississippi to St. Louis—Arrival home.

Chagres is a town of some over 150 houses, situated on the South American side, at the mouth of the Chagres river. The houses are like those of Gorgona and Cruses, many of which appear to be of considerably ancient date. The ground upon which the town stands, is of but little elevation above the waters of the river, and it seems that it must inevitably become inundated, should a strong wind continue to blow a considerable time from off the Caribbean sea. This town, as also Gorgona, Cruses and Panama, belongs to the republic of New Grenada. Bogota is the capital of this republic, and is situated interior, several hundred miles to the south of Chagres. An entrance to the mouth of the Chagres river, by sail ships, is often attended with the danger of being wreckd on the beach. Hence, a steamer is kept at the harbor for the conveyance of passengers from them, at a distance of 2 miles, where they are obligd to anchor.

At the entrance of the river and contiguous to the town, upon a projecting eminence, is an old, dilapidated fort, with a large number of brass cannon scatterd about upon the walls. There appear to be a few soldiers strolling about the fort, but with a total indifference to the attention which a fort requires for its requisite abilities, in an emergency.

The inhabitants of Chagres have more of negroes and negro blood in them than the citizens of Panama, Cruses or Gorgona, but they are of similar stamp with their neighbors in that part of America, and speak the same language. The females dress much in lawns and other light clothing, as is most suitable for the climate. The religion here, and mostly throughout this part of the country, is Roman Catholic.

The bells of the churches are generally hung in the windows, or outside, near the ground, at their entrances. The cross-bar on which they are hung, often contains two bells, so that the ringing of them is frequently done by two persons, in quite a ludicrous manner. The mode of ringing is performd by each person’s taking a small hammer or stick, and striking upon the outside of the bells, keeping time with each other, similar to the beating of two drummers.

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Saturday, Dec. 8th.—Embarkd on board brig Major Eastland, bound to New Orleans, and arrivd there, Thursday, December 20th. Our trip was a tolerably short and pleasant one, for the season of the year. We experiencd no storm upon the Caribbean sea, nor any through the Gulf of Mexico. Nothing of importance was experiencd on the way, to change the monotony.

On the 21st, I left New Orleans by steamboat, for St Louis, a distance of 1200 miles by water, though probably not much exceeding 600 direct. The old towns of Natchez and Vicksburg are in a decayd condition. Memphis appears to be the most thriving town between New Orleans and St. Louis.

Monday, Dec. 31st, I found myself at the St. Louis levee, after struggling with floating ice for a day or two, the latter part of the distance. I left St. Louis, Jan. 2d, 1850, and arrivd at Knox co., Ill., Jan. 8th, having been gone from home, one year, nine months and five days.

On my arrival at home, I found my friends in a state of health, though many deaths in town had occurd during my absence, and the place had exceedingly improvd.

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A few remarks appendant to the foregoing, in relation to traveling expenses, may be of use to those desirous to go to California, by the way of the oceans and the isthmus. At present, the arrangement for running steamers between San Francisco and Panama, is, to leave each place for the other, but twice each month, which is on the 1st and 20th. Sail ships are also running between the two places with frequency. Prices of passage, the fall of 1849, between the two places, were $300 cabin, $150 steerage. On board sail ships, $150 cabin, and $75 steerage. An arrangement from Chagres to New York, by the way of New Orleans and Havana, is made by the U. S. Mail Ship Company, for carrying passengers, so that passengers can leave Chagres on the 28th of each month, at $150 cabin, $125 forward, and $80 steerage. This state of things will not last long, before there will be a sufficient amount of competition for the speedy accommodation of all who wish to go to California.