CHAPTER X.

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Curiosities of Oregon.

It is difficult to tell, in making out a history of a country, what would be a curiosity and what would not, to readers that are familiar with descriptions of country scenery. I have selected a few that are considered by some as curiosities, as follows.

Mount Hood and its glacial sisters.

Bear Lake of Bear River.

Soda Springs.

Hot Springs.

Cascade Falls.

Mount Hood is one of the glacial peaks of the Cascade range of mountains. It is situated about 50 miles a little south of east from Oregon city, from whose vicinity it can be seen, and about 30 miles south of the Columbia river. Its height above tide water is about 11,721 feet. Rain seldom falls upon this mountain. Whenever it is enveloped by clouds, their contents are generally deposited in the form of snow. And in the summer season, the spectator from a neighboring mountain may frequently see it glistening with a brilliant white covering of snow, when only a few minutes before it had presented a mottled appearance of naked precipitous rocks, glacial prominences, huge caverns and deep ravines, so rapid is the passage of the clouds across the summit of this mountain. Alternately, during the summer season, the top of this mountain is coverd with clouds and then illuminated with a brilliant sun through a transparent sky. During the short season of repose from storms, the sun pours down its intense rays upon those snows and prominent glaciers, reducing them to water, which on its passage downward, especially in the hottest of the summer season, frequently deluges the whole base of the mountain, overturning and submerging to a considerable depth beneath rocks and sand bars, many of the most lofty and gigantic trees growing at the base and along the valley below.

On ascending this mountain, as the traveler arrives at the line of perpetual frost, he sees no verdure of any kind. Animals can only live to skirt across some of its lowest glaciers to other mountains more friendly to contribute to their support. Still advancing upward, the glaciers become more steep, till they with the walls of precipitous rocks, bid entire defiance to an ascension to the top of this interesting mountain.

In some of the lowest glaciers of Mount Hood are glacial caverns, several hundred feet deep, coverd from sight with sometimes only a thin covering of ice, with scarcely sufficient strength to sustain the weight of a man.

Mount Hood is a sample of the immense disintegrating power of glacio-aqueous agency. It cannot be expected that otherwise than great disintegrating power should exist where there are constant alternations of frost and water upon rock, as is the case upon Mount Hood. From this mountain flow several important streams of water, all of which, I believe, are constantly filled with a thick sediment of disintegrated rock.

Mount Hood on the east furnishes a considerable arm of Deshutes river. On the west, a large stream calld Sandy creek, and a part of Clackamas. Sandy, after a few miles of westerly course, runs north and falls into the Columbia river, a little below the Cascade falls. Another important stream calld Dog river, flows to the north and empties into the Columbia river above the Cascade falls. In fine, Mount Hood sits as queen of mountains within its vicinity, and being located centrally within that vast range of mountains, and elevated so much above all others as it is, must necessarily distribute its waters on all sides, breaking their way and bursting their barriers through other mountains of inferior size, till they are finally discharged into the ocean.

Mount Jefferson, another glacial peak, is situated centrally in the Cascade range of mountains, about 50 miles nearly south of Mount Hood, and about 40 miles east of the Willamet river. This glacier, as well as Mount Hood, contributes to the waters of Deshutes on the east, and the Willamet on the west. Its character is similar in most respects to Mount Hood, though somewhat inferior in size.

Mount St. Helen, on the north side of the Columbia river and about forty miles from it, is another high towring glacier of the Cascade range. This mountain, as seen from Oregon city, pierces the welkin high above the horizon around. Citizens of this country say that there are occasional emissions of smoke from its summit, though no lava of late has been seen flowing down its declivities. No successful attempt has been made to climb this mountain, to ascertain the size and appearance of its crater. It is the only one in this region that appears at present to show signs of volcanic activity.

Mount Rainier and Mt. Baker, still farther north along the Cascade range, are similar in character, less in size, and not very well known.

* * * * * * * *

Bear lake and the Mineral springs are next to receive attention as curiosities.

Twelve or thirteen miles west of Thomas’ fork of Bear river, is an extensive bottom of Bear river, where is a lake of unknown depth, and about three miles in width. Across this lake is a bar of earth, extending entirely from one bank to its opposite, rising about three feet above the waters of the lake, and wide enough for wagons to pass. This lake is a short distance above the confluence of its waters with Bear river. Its waters come from the mountains south of the lake, and are dischargd by percolation through this bar into the lake below it. From what I have seen of beaver dams in West Oregon, I am inclind to think this bar was made by those animals.

* * * * * * * *

The Soda springs at Bear river, sixty-five miles east of Fort Hall, are considerd by some persons a curiosity. The bottoms of Bear river, at the springs and for several miles in extent along the emigrant route, appear to be cavernous. In the vicinity of the springs where most of them are located, emissions of gasses are observd from the surface of the land, and oftentimes with a considerable explosion. The springs likewise are constantly emitting gasses from them, as noticd by the bubbling of the water. The river at this place appears like a boiling pot.

The water of these springs is quite sedimentary. Numerous cones of silent springs are seen all around, occasiond by constant accumulations from the sediment of the waters. Some of the springs form craters or basin-shapd tops of several feet in diameter. These springs, after having been active a great number of years, choke up their orifices, and become silent. One which I saw on the bank of the river, calld by some the Steamboat spring, had nearly ceasd to flow. Its dying groans reminded me of a dying butcherd animal. Many of the springs are intermittent of a few seconds alternately. So soon as the gasses are sufficiently accumulated beneath, they are dischargd, often throwing the water to several feet.

Some of these springs are too alkaline to be pleasant to the taste, or even healthy. Others again, have a sufficient amount of acid in combination to render them tolerably pleasant. I believe, however, that none of them are as pleasant as the artificial soda of our shops.

* * * * * * * *

About fifty miles east of Fort Boyce, along the south side of Snake river and near to it, are hot springs issuing from the plains. At their sources, they are scalding hot. Not far distant from these, on the north side of Snake river, are other similar springs. Fifteen or sixteen miles west of Fort Boyce, at the crossing of Malheur on the emigrant road, are other springs, some of which are so hot that a man cannot bear his hand in them two seconds. All of the hot springs are sulphurous.

From the volcanic character of a great portion of the country lying west of the dividing ridge of the American continent, it may probably be inferd that the water of these springs is heated by internal fires, not very deep-seated.

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The Cascade falls are noticd by some travelers as worthy of attention. Some remarks relative to them may not be altogether uninteresting, as well also to correct some errors of former writers.

Mr. Eby, a late visitor of the falls, informd me that the country above the cascade is so nearly on a level with the country below, that were the rocks that choke up the river at the cascade removd, the water of the river would flow as smoothly and with as little apparent fall, as it does for miles above or below that place.

Immediately above the falls is an apparent subsidence of many acres of timberd land, so that the trees are standing in very deep water. But few of them at present remain. Visitors of the present day are of the opinion that the apparent subsidence is not one in reality, and that the place now submerged was once a bottom land, coverd with a dense growth of fir, and as the rocks precipitated from their stupendous columns into the river at that place, the waters were gradually damd up, so as to overflow the bottom of the river above.

The timber there submergd has become of a siliceous petrefaction, showing the grains of the timber as perfectly as if no such petrefaction had taken place.

After closing my remarks relative to the natural scenery of Oregon, I am led to suggest some ideas concerning the poor, degraded, primitive man of the country.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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