Journal of Travels From St. Josephs to Oregon / With Observations of That Country, Together With Some Description of California, Its Agricultural Interests, and a Full Description of Its Gold Mines.

CHAPTER VII.

The Divisions are separately considerd—The Climate—Rivers and Agricultural Resources—Mineral and Geological Character.

The first or eastern division of Oregon can at present be considerd worth little else than to hold the world together. It, however, furnishes a tolerably good conveyance towards the ocean for some of the waters of Oregon, that take their rise in the Rocky mountains and elsewhere along the western declivity of the continent near to the dividing ridge.

The surface of this division is undulating. Some of its rivers traverse the country along their beds, from five hundred to more than one thousand feet below the common surface. Although along the emigrant route this division measures about seven hundred miles in width, yet its true width may not much exceed six hundred,—and little else is seen but a country destitute of soil and vegetation, excepting wild sage, and except also along the rivers and some of the valleys, where detachd portions of grass are seen. The valley along the emigrant route, through which the Powder river waters pass, is a level plain, and it would be a delightsome Eden, had it soil, and were it coverd with luxuriant grasses.

I am here led to remark, that the analysis of the soil here, made by Col. Fremont on his way through this valley, to foreign readers might produce much misunderstanding relative to the soil of the country generally. Although the analysis here producd may be such as indicates good soil, yet with a little exaggeration it may be said that another shovelful of earth would have taken nearly all the soil of the whole valley.

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Across the middle division of Oregon by way of the emigrant route, from Grand Round valley to Barlow’s gate, at the east side of the Cascade range of mountains, is about 212 miles, though probably in a direct course it would be some less than 200. The Blue mountains traversing this division, give rise to some rivers that checker its visage, but they are of minor importance, and nearly dried up in the summer, from the long absence of rains in those parts. This division compares very well with the eastern, in point of barrenness and disadvantages generally for the promotion of settlement and improvements of any kind.

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I come now to consider the western division of Oregon—the only one on which settlements of any considerable extent have been effected, although Dr. Whitman succeeded in maintaining a small position on the Walla Walla river, till the fall of 1847, at which time himself and wife were killd by the Indians of his own fostering, growing out of a dissatisfaction relative to his treatment with them. And although it is thought by many that the doctor acted in all good conscience towards them, yet through blind zeal and probably a sectarian influence from other denominations of religionists, they were led to believe that the doctor was taking measures to undermine their liberties, and ultimately to overthrow and destroy them.

From the east side of the Cascade range of mountains westwardly to the Pacific ocean the western division ranges from 150 to 200 miles in width, and extending from north to south through the whole length of the Oregon territory.

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In remarking upon the several distinct subjects that come to hand relative to Oregon, I am first led to notice its climate.—The climate of Oregon may be considerd a healthy one, though it is subject to considerable changes from year to year. The summer seasons are generally dry, with warm days and cool nights, from the first of July to the first of October, though the rainy season, as it is calld, does not commence much before November, at which time, and for three or four months after, the land becomes so saturated with water, and the streams so swollen, that little passing is done by the citizens from one place to another.

Soon after the rainy season commences in the valleys, the mountainous portions begin to be coverd with snow, and it continues to accumulate upon them at every successive storm, till in many places the snow becomes nearly thirty feet deep, which lasts until quite the latter part of the succeeding summer, before it entirely disappears.

The winter seasons are very variable. During some of the winters, the grasses of the valleys remain green, garden vegetables are verdant, and but little frost is seen. Others again, for three months, the earth is bound up with frost, and the rivers are frozen over of sufficient thickness to bear passages of considerable burden.

So far as the health of this country is concernd, it is true that some sickness prevails, but it may be in a great measure owing to the physical change in the physiology of the human system, in passing from the States to a country so different in climate. After emigrants become acclimated here, the blood becomes of a bright scarlet red, being much more aerated or oxygenized than exists in the system in any of the southern States of America, and consequently better health may be inferd. At some seasons of the year, along some of the rivers, ague and fever exists, but it is generally of a very mild character, and medicine takes a speedy and salutary effect upon the human system.

The description of the climate here given of Oregon, being applicable to the western division does not in all respects apply to the two eastern divisions. The whole of Oregon lying east, of the Cascade range of mountains, is much drier, having less rains at any time, than the portion lying west of them.

It is often quite cold in winter, and being very dry in summer, renders it truly a desert country.

The rivers of Oregon of any considerable notice, are well known to most readers. Although Columbia river is much the largest in the territory, and produces the greatest drainage of any one, yet it does not by a considerable amount drain all of the waters of Oregon that find their way to the Pacific ocean. Green river, commencing at Fremont’s peak, in the Wind river mountains, is the principal source of the great Rio Colerado of Calafornia. The great Sacramento of upper Calafornia, has its principal source in Oregon. Other rivers though less in size, yet nevertheless, rivers that are likely to become rivers of considerable, importance, indent the western coast, and furnish their own drainage to the Pacific ocean. Those rivers which fall most immediately under the notice of actual settlers of the present day, are comprisd within the western division of Oregon. They are Willamet, the Umpqua and the Klamet, with their several tributaries. These rivers and their tributaries form valleys of moderate extent, and furnish many tolerable good farms to those who love a romantic life among the hills and vales of an undulating country. Wheat, oats, neat cattle and horses, are the principal sources of wealth which is derivd from the soil at present. Indian corn is not much cultivated in Oregon, its summers being too dry for corn to thrive well. The swine of the country look well fattend upon wheat, but the ox is mostly usd here for food.

I ought here to remark that the wheat of this country is of a superior quality. It is free from all those attending evils very common at the east, such as smut, rust and wheat sickness.—The weevil is not known here at present. The wheat of this country grows with a very stiff stalk, which enables it to stand erect for a great length of time. This furnishes the farmer during the dry season of the year an opportunity to secure his abundant crop.

The mineral resources of Oregon hitherto, have receivd but little attention. Gold has been discoverd only sparingly.—Copper is said to exist on the Cowlits, a small tributary to the Columbia river, on the north of it, having its source in the direction of Puget’s sound.

Lead has of late been seen upon the Santyam. It is thought by some persons that it may be obtaind there in considerable quantities, but as the minds of the Oregon people are at present directed to the gold mines of California, little attention will be paid to mining operations at home. Iron exists in large quantities in the Cascade mountains. Along the emigrant route, I have seen iron probably as rich as 80 per cent.

The soil of the whole division west of the Cascade range is tingd of a reddish color by the red oxide of iron. This oxide in some places is so abundant as to injure the soil. In other places the soil is not materially injurd by it. In some places along the rocky bluffs of some of the rivers, iron ore is quite rich. I observd one of those places in the bluffs east of the Willamet falls, at the south end of Oregon city, where the road, leading to the top of the highest bluff is excavated. From my own observations in traveling over the western division, I am confident that there is no lack of iron ore in almost every part, and so soon as the inhabitants are ready to turn their attention to it, their necessary supplies will be furnishd from their own country.

The next subject relative to the Oregon country is its geological character. In remarking upon the geology of this country several departments of the science are presented to view. First, there are three ranges of mountains running nearly parallel with each other from north to south.

The eastern range which bounds the eastern side of Oregon, is along the dividing ridge of the American continent. If the question be asked, why this dividing ridge? the geologist alone attempts an answer. From the accumulation of facts hitherto adducd of the liquidity of the earth’s interior, and the discharge for ages of its internal liquid matter upon the already formd crust, it is evident that its nucleus must become less than at first, and thereby produce a rigid and furrowd appearance of the crust, by its conforming through the power of gravitation to a lesser surface than that on which it was at first formd. Altho’ isolated peaks of mountain ranges may be formd by accumulation of lava, and considerable districts may be raisd by the pressure of gasses from beneath, yet so considerable an elevation as the dividing ridge of the American continent can never be formd in such a way.

Oregon is truly an uneven and mountainous country. It is true that in passing from the dividing ridge westward, there are a few situations where the traveler views the country around him as apparently level, but this appearance continues on advancing along, but a short distance, till he is plunged into almost inextricable gulfs and deep ravines. The Blue mountains or intermediate range between the dividing ridge and the Cascade range, are of minor importance. They traverse no considerable extent of country, nor are they very wide. They have a volcanic appearance, and are strewd over with vescicular lava.

The Cascade range of mountains are more extensive, traversing by different names the whole of Oregon and California, at a distance of from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific ocean. Some of its peaks are high and coverd with perpetual glaciers. This range, like the dividing ridge, seems to have been elevated by compression.

Between the Willamet valley and the ocean, is a range of high hills calld the Coast range. These are too rugged to admit of cultivation.

The western shore of Oregon is rocky, and in many places precipitous. If the theory that ocean beds are formd by undulations in the earth’s crust be true, the query might arise, Why are ocean limits of precipitous rocks of the firmest material, as is the case with many of the ocean shores, and not a gradual slope from the land downward to the bed of the ocean? If it be admitted that rivers are formd by the expansive force of gasses acting beneath the earth’s crust, it may be supposd that a fissure by similar means may be formd parallel and near to the shore of an ocean, so that its waters by their weight may produce a subsidence of that portion lying under them, whilst that part opposite the fissure remaind stationary.

Oregon may be regarded as a primary country. Few fossiliferous rocks are seen in any part of it. I noticd on the west bank of Big Sandy creek, about thirty miles west of South pass, a few fossiliferous shale rocks. I have not noticd any in other places, though they may exist sparingly. From the American falls on Snake river, for several hundred miles westward the country is overlaid with a stratum of basaltic lava. This seems to be the true basalt, and although the rocks of the Willamet river at Oregon city have been considerd by some as basalt, from their extreme hardness, yet I have noticd that the surface of those rocks, after having been exposd to the weather, become a mere sand rock, by the loss of the iron with which they are impregnated. It is well known to mineralogists, that iron becomes soluble by the action of the atmosphere upon it, by which means water carries it from its parent bed to lower levels, where it is deposited, under the name of bog ore. The rocks at Oregon city consist of about three varieties of rock, differing not essentially in their properties, though some of them appear to have been subjected to so high a degree of heat as to render them somewhat crystaline or vitreous. The rocks at Oregon city are so fully impregnated with iron, that the magnetic needle, at some points along these rocks, is drawn aside from its polar position.

From what information I have obtaind in addition to my own observation respecting the rocks of Oregon, I am satisfied that few rocks except those of a silicious formation, exist here. Along the Columbia river, near its mouth, are a few lime rocks of inferior quality. At the Cascade falls, are whole trees of silicious petrefaction, showing distinctly the grains of the timber, and to what kind they belongd.

As the Willamet river has hitherto attracted the attention of actual settlers more than any other tributary of the Columbia river, I have concluded to give a more particular description of it than any other one belonging to the Western division of Oregon. From its confluence with the Columbia to the high country of its sources, the Willamet traverses a distance of about two hundred miles in extent. Its union with the Columbia is not much short of one hundred miles from the ocean. At the mouth of the Willamet, is a delta fifteen or twenty miles in length, calld Souvie’s island, running nearly parallel with the Columbia. This island was formerly the residence of immense numbers of Indians. The Hudson Bay Company at present occupy it for farming purposes. At the eastern or upper mouth of the Willamet, are one or two other small deltas, though of no importance.

About fifteen miles from the Columbia, on the west bank of the Willamet, is a small town calld Portland. Ships of considerable burden visit this place for their lading.

Five miles farther up, on the east side, is a town newly laid out by Mr. Lot Whitcomb, calld Milwaukie. Vessels of considerable size can sail as far up as this place.

Seven or eight miles farther up, on the east side, is a tributary calld Clacamas. Its waters flow from the Cascade mountains. At the mouth of this tributary are rapids, which prevent ships from sailing up to Oregon city.

One mile farther up, is Oregon city on the east side, and Lynn city on the west side of the Willamet river. Between these two places is a bay, the waters of which are between three and four hundred feet deep. The width of the bay is about thirty rods, near the upper end at the crossing, and gradually widens downward to the Clackamas rapids.

Oregon city at present is built entirely upon the first terrace above the waters of the bay, and being so narrow that there is but one street that passes through the town lengthwise, excepting a Water street along the shore of the bay. East of the present town and contiguous to it, is a precipitous range of rocks, one hundred feet high from Main street, and so near to it that there is but just room enough for the accommodation of buildings with some very small gardens. On the top of this bluff, which is a second terrace from the waters of the river, the surveys for the town are extended, but no buildings have yet been erected there. Still back of this at a short distance, is a third terrace, elevated in hight equal to the surrounding country.

Oregon city is a new town, containing about 150 buildings, two saw mills, one of which is a double mill, and two grist mills. At each of these mills, water enough is wasted to carry four other mills. I think I may justly say, that there is water power enough at Oregon city to carry five hundred grist mills. It seems, on taking a view of the natural dam at the upper end of Oregon city, that when the fissure now constituting the river was formd, the paroxysmal effort from beneath causd a lateral dismemberment of some of the rocks along the sides of the fissure, and upon sliding down chokd up the chasm from one side to the other. Below the falls, the terrace on which the town stands seems to have taken a similar slide, but being filld in part with rubbish beneath, prevented an entire union of the rocks, leaving the chasm now constituting the bay.

The waters of the falls are precipitated over the cragged rocks at several different places, foaming and tumbling with tremendous roar, to the depth of thirty feet into the waters of the bay below.

About one mile and a half above the falls, on the west side of the river, is the small tributary calld Twality, issuing from the coast range.

Two or three miles farther up, is another slide of rocks, which chokes up the entire stream, with the exception of a small chasm or two, too narrow to admit boats of any considerable size to pass.

About twelve miles above Oregon city, on the east side of the river, Molala and Pudding river waters unite with the Willamet. These two tributaries have good supplies of water for mills. After having collected their waters from the hilly country east, they meander about over the land, and finally empty into the Willamet at one place.

About thirty miles above Oregon city, Yam creek unites with the Willamet, on its west side, watering the country from the coast range in two separate branches, till within about ten miles of the Willamet, where they unite and form one.

Salem, a small town on the east side of the Willamet, about forty-five miles above Oregon city, is the site of the missionary, Mr. Lee, of the Methodist order, now no more. At this place, is a classical school of considerable merit, the only one of importance in Oregon territory.

Rickreyall and Luckamute, on the west side of Willamet, contribute to its waters, but little above Salem.

Still farther up, and not more than eight or ten miles above Salem or the Institute as some call it, on the east side of the Willamet, is the Santyam, a stream of considerable importance, the principal branch of which flows from Mount Jefferson, one of the glacial peaks of the Cascade range. The course of this river from Mount Jefferson to its union with the Willamet, is not more than about forty miles.

Other tributaries of some importance still farther up, flow into the Willamet, on both sides of it, till arriving at the high country of their sources, where they ramify in all directions.

Leaving the subject of the Willamet river, I pass on to a description of the forests and animals of Oregon.

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