NO. 2. AMERICAN ICE-CREAM (VERY PLAIN)

• 1 quart of milk.
• 1 cupful of sugar.
• 3 whole eggs,
• 1 tablespoonful of vanilla.

Scald the milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together; stir the scalded milk into them slowly; replace on the fire in a double boiler and stir constantly until the custard coats the spoon; do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Beat it for a little while after taking it off the fire. When it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze it as directed at head of chapter.

Cream will improve this mixture, even if it be only a few spoonfuls. More eggs, also, will give a richer ice-cream. When the cream is frozen remove the dasher, press the cream down with a potato-masher to smooth the top and make it compact, and leave it in the freezer until time to serve. A few raisins, thin slices of citron, or a little fresh or preserved fruit may be mixed in when the dasher is removed, and will much improve the cream.

NO. 3. FRENCH ICE-CREAM

• 1 pint of milk.
• 1 pint of cream.
• 1 cupful of sugar.
• 6 egg-yolks.
• 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract or of powder, or 1 vanilla bean.

Scald the pint of milk in a double boiler. (It is scalded when the water in the outside kettle boils). Beat the yolks and sugar together until light and smooth. Stir the scalded milk slowly into the beaten eggs and sugar. Put this into a double boiler and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens enough to coat the spoon. Do not let it boil or cook too long, or it will curdle. If a vanilla bean is used it should be cut in two lengthwise and infused with the scalded milk. Remove the custard from the fire; add the cream and the flavoring and stir until it is partly cooled. When cold freeze it as directed at head of chapter.

Note 1.—This makes a solid, fine-grained cream. It can be made with one quart of cream instead of half milk, and eight to ten eggs may be used instead of six. The richness depends upon the amount of cream, and the solidity upon the number of yolks used.

Note 2.—With the whites of the eggs make an angel cake, or keep them until next day, and make an angel cream (page 497), or an angel parfait (page 505).

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM

Use either of the receipts given for vanilla creams, according to the richness and quality of cream desired; add to the custard while it is hot four ounces of melted chocolate. To melt the chocolate break it into small pieces; place it in a small saucepan on the side of the range where the heat is not great. When it is melted add a very little milk or custard to dilute and smooth it before adding it to the ice-cream mixture. Freeze and pack as directed at head of chapter.

CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 1

• 1 pint of milk.
• 1 pint of cream.
• 3 whole eggs.
• 1½ tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate.
• Caramel.

Scald the milk; add it slowly to the beaten eggs; add the chocolate, and cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until the custard coats the spoon; then add the hot caramel. When the mixture is perfectly cold add the cream, whipped, and freeze. See general directions.

To make the caramel, put a cupful of sugar with a half cupful of water into a saucepan; stir until the sugar is dissolved; then, without touching, let it cook until a golden color—not longer, or it will blacken. This is the caramel stage, and registers on the thermometer 345° (see page 512).

CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 2

Add the hot caramel to any of the mixtures given for vanilla creams, omitting the sugar and vanilla. The caramel supplies both sweetening and flavoring. It must be mixed with the custards while hot, as it quickly hardens, and will not then dissolve.

COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 1

To any of the receipts given for vanilla cream add a half cupful of black coffee, and omit the vanilla.

COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 2

• 1 quart of milk.
• 1 quart of cream.
• ½ cupful of very black coffee.
• 1½ cupfuls of sugar.
• ½ ounce of isinglass soaked for half an hour in a little of the cold milk.

Scald the milk; add the coffee and isinglass and sugar. When it is cold add the cream, whipped, and freeze.

WHITE OR ANGEL ICE-CREAM

• Whites of 6 eggs.
• 1 cupful of powdered sugar.
• 1 pint of cream.
• Italian meringue made of the whites of 2 eggs and 1 tablespoonful of hot syrup.
• 2 tablespoonfuls of noyau or of orange-flower water.

Break the whites of the eggs, but do not beat them to a froth; stir into them the cupful of powdered sugar, and then add the cream. Place it in a double boiler, and stir until it is scalded, but do not let it boil; remove from the fire and stir until it is cold, to make it light. When it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze. When it is frozen remove the dasher, stir in the Italian meringue, turn it into a mold, and pack in ice and salt for two or three hours. This cream requires a little longer to freeze than the other creams.

ITALIAN MERINGUE

Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; beat into them slowly some boiling syrup cooked to the ball. This cooks the eggs enough to prevent their separating. The syrup is made by boiling sugar and water until, when a little is dropped into cold water, it will form a ball when rolled between the fingers.

RICE ICE-CREAM

Cook a cupful of rice until very soft. Have the juice of a lemon in the water in which the rice is boiled. When the rice is steamed dry, cover it with a thick sugar syrup and let it stand for an hour or more. Drain off the syrup, add a half pint of cream, whipped (this may be omitted if preferred); stir this into vanilla cream No. 1 or 3, or with angel ice-cream after it is well frozen. Mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours.

PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM

Blanch two ounces of pistachio nuts; this is done by pouring over them boiling water: after a few minutes the skins can be easily removed. Pound the nuts in a mortar to a smooth paste, using a little cream to prevent their oiling. Add this quantity of nuts to one quart of vanilla cream mixture No. 3; color it green, the shade of green peas; flavor with a little orange-flower water, then freeze. When nuts are not obtainable, the flavor of pistachio can be produced with orange-flower water and a very little bitter almond.

NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM

This cream is molded in brick form in three layers of different flavors and colors. Make a cream after the receipt for vanilla cream No. 3, using eight or ten yolks, as it should be solid and of fine grain; omit the vanilla flavoring. Have a pail packed in ice; when the cream is frozen, remove one third of it to the pail and stir in quickly a little vanilla, using the vanilla powder if convenient; put this into the brick-shaped mold, also packed in ice, and smooth it down to an even layer. Take from the freezer one half of the cream remaining in it and put it into the pail; stir into it one ounce of melted chocolate diluted and made smooth with a little cream or milk. Place the chocolate cream in an even layer on the layer of vanilla cream. To the cream remaining in the freezer add an ounce of pistachio nuts, prepared as directed in receipt for pistachio cream; color it green and add it to the mold for the third layer. Seal the joints of the mold with butter to make it very tight, as directed for molding, page 491. Pack in ice and salt for several hours. The molding of this cream must be done quickly, but with care to have the layers even. Strawberry ice is often used for one of the layers instead of chocolate cream.

NESSELRODE PUDDING

• 1 cupful of French chestnuts.
• 1 cupful of granulated sugar.
• Yolks of 3 eggs.
• ½ pint of cream.
• ¼ pound of mixed candied fruits.
• 1 cupful of almonds.
• ½ can of pineapple (drained).
• 1½ tablespoonfuls of maraschino, or 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
• ½ teaspoonful of vanilla sugar, or ¼ teaspoonful of vanilla extract.

1. Remove the shells from the chestnuts; put them in boiling water for three minutes, then into cold water, and take off the skins. Boil the blanched chestnuts until tender. Take one half of them and press them through a sieve. They will go through more easily while hot.

2. Blanch the almonds; chop them fine and pound them.

3. Cut the candied fruits and the chestnuts into dice; pour over them the maraschino and let them stand until ready to use.

4. Put into a saucepan on the fire a cupful of granulated sugar and one quarter cupful of boiling water; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly for five minutes, making a sugar syrup.5. Beat the yolks of three eggs until light. Pour onto them slowly, stirring all the time, the sugar syrup; place them on the fire and stir constantly until the mixture is enough thickened to coat the spoon and has the consistency of thick cream. Remove it from the fire, turn it into a bowl, and beat it until it is cold. When it is cold add a half pint of cream, the mashed chestnuts, the pounded almonds, and the vanilla flavoring, and freeze it. When it is frozen remove the lid of the freezer, add the fruits, replace the lid, and turn the freezer for another five minutes. Put the cream into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt until ready to use. Serve with it whipped cream, or the sauce given below for plum pudding glacÉ flavored with maraschino. This makes a quart of cream, and, being very rich, is enough to serve to ten persons.

GouffÉ gives the receipt for this pudding, which he says he obtained from the chef of Count Nesselrode. He omits the grated almonds, and uses stoned raisins and currants instead of candied fruits. When the cream is half frozen he adds a half pint of whipped cream. The raisins and currants are boiled until plump and added after the cream is frozen, but before it is packed.

PLUM PUDDING GLACÉ

Make a chocolate ice-cream as directed on page 496, using the French ice-cream mixture. Have a scant three quarters of a pound of mixed fruit, composed of seeded raisins and currants boiled until plump, thin slices of citron, a few candied cherries and apricots if convenient. Pour over them a little sherry and let them stand long enough to be a little softened. When the cream is frozen, drain the fruit and mix it into the cream, turning the dasher for a few minutes to get it well mixed and again hardened. Place it in a melon mold and pack in ice and salt. This will make about two quarts of cream. Serve with a sauce placed around it on the same dish. The sauce may be whipped cream flavored with a little kirsch or brandy, or a sauce made as follows.

SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING GLACÉ OR FOR NESSELRODE PUDDING

Beat the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to a cream. Stir it over the fire in a double boiler until the egg is a little thickened, but not hard. Continue to beat the egg until it is cold. It will then be light and creamy; add a tablespoonful of brandy, or of kirsch, or of rum, or of maraschino; and then mix in lightly a half pint of cream whipped to a dry, stiff froth.

TUTTI-FRUTTI

Make a French vanilla ice-cream, page 495. Cut into small dice four ounces each of candied cherries, apricots, and plums; and other fruits may be used if desired. Let them soak until a little softened in maraschino, or kirsch, or sherry. When the cream is frozen, stir in the salpicon of fruit, drained; replace the lid of the freezer and turn it for five minutes. Turn it into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt until ready to use. The angel ice-cream, page 497, may be used instead of the vanilla No. 3 if preferred. Serve with the Tutti-Frutti a sauce of whipped cream flavored with kirsch, maraschino, or sherry.

FRUIT ICE-CREAMS

No. 1. Berries, or any kind of larger fruit cut into small pieces, may be added to any of the vanilla creams after they are frozen. Remove the paddle of the freezer, mix the fruit in well, then mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours. The fruit will become too solid if packed for a long time.

No. 2. Crush any fruit or berries to a pulp. Sweeten it to taste with a thick sugar syrup (32° on the syrup gauge). Freeze the same as any ice cream, and pack in ice and salt if molded. This makes a delicious ice. Sugar may be used instead of syrup for sweetening, but the latter gives a better result.

No. 3. Using canned fruit. Strain the liquor from the fruit; sweeten it if necessary with sugar or with syrup. Mix it with an equal quantity of cream, and freeze. When it is frozen add the drained fruit. Mix it well together. Mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours. The fruit will become hard if it is packed too long. Preserved strawberries are a particularly good fruit to use for ice-cream.

Note.—Strawberries, raspberries, cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, pineapple, bananas, and oranges are the fruits generally used for ices and creams.

FRUIT PUDDINGS

No. 4. Line a mold one or one and a half inches thick with vanilla ice-cream; fill the center with fresh strawberries, raspberries, whortleberries, peaches, bananas, or any fruit. Cover the top with cream. Pack in ice and salt for two hours. The fruit may be mixed with whipped cream, if convenient, when it is put in the center of the mold. Whipped cream may also be served as a sauce with this cream.

NUT ICE-CREAMS

Vanilla ice cream No. 3, also angel ice-cream, is good with chopped nuts mixed with it after it is frozen and before it is packed. Boiled chestnuts cut into small pieces, chopped English walnuts, filberts, pecan nuts, or almonds may be used. Almonds should be blanched, chopped, and browned; and a caramel or an almond flavoring is better than vanilla for the cream when almonds are used.

PARFAITS

This class of ice-creams is very easily made, as they are not stirred while freezing. The yolks of eggs are cooked with sugar syrup to a thick smooth cream, then flavored and beaten until cold and light, and mixed with drained whipped cream. They are then simply put into a mold and packed in ice and salt for three or four hours, according to size of mold. They are not solid like the custard ice-creams, but have a sponge-like texture. They should not be frozen too hard. It is because they have no water in them to crystallize that they do not require to be stirred while freezing.

SUGAR SYRUP

Put two cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly without touching it for about ten minutes, or until it is a clear syrup. The syrup can be made in larger quantities and kept in preserve jars ready for use. To keep well it should be boiled to a rather thick consistency, or should register 32° on the syrup gauge. For parfaits it should be thinner or register 20°. For water ices it should register 32° (see boiling sugar, page 513).

In using syrups by measure, articles may be too much sweetened if the right degree is not designated; but if one has not a syrup gauge the sweetening must be determined by taste. All classes of ice-creams are better sweetened with syrup than with sugar. It seems to give them more smoothness and delicacy.

VANILLA PARFAIT

Beat the yolks of eight eggs until light; add one cupful of syrup. Place the mixture on a slow fire and stir constantly until the eggs have thickened enough to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl and beat it with a whip until it is cold; it will then be very light. If a vanilla bean is used for flavoring, infuse it with the syrup; if the extract is used add a teaspoonful of it to the custard when it is taken from the fire. When the custard is cold add a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. (If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in.) Stir these lightly together; turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints. Pack in ice and salt for four hours. Make the joints of the mold very tight as directed for molding at head of chapter.

This cream can be varied by using different flavorings in place of the vanilla: a tablespoonful of curaÇao or of noyau, two ounces of chocolate melted and smoothed with a little cream, etc., etc.

MAPLE PARFAIT

This is made the same as the vanilla parfait, using maple syrup in place of the sugar syrup, and omitting the vanilla flavoring. Maple syrup may be made by adding water to maple sugar and cooking it to the right consistency.

PARFAIT AU CAFÉ AND CAFÉ PRALINÉ

Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them light; add three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup and four tablespoonfuls of strong black coffee. Stir the mixture over a slow fire until it is enough thickened to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl and beat it until it is cold and light. If making coffee pralinÉ, add three tablespoonfuls of praline powder (see below). Mix in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in. Turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints and pack in ice and salt for four hours.

CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AND CHOCOLATE PRALINÉ

Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them until light; add three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl; add two ounces of melted unsweetened chocolate and beat until it is cold and light. If making chocolate pralinÉ, add three tablespoonfuls of praline powder; stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in. Pack in ice and salt for four hours. This makes three pints of cream.

PRALINE POWDER

Put one and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire; stir until the sugar is well dissolved; then add a cupful of shelled almonds and a cupful of shelled filberts without removing the skins. Let it cook, without touching, until it attains a golden color, the caramel stage. Turn it onto a slab or oiled dish. When it is cold pound it in a mortar to a coarse powder. Keep the praline powder in a close preserve jar ready for use.

ANGEL PARFAIT

Whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth. Put a half cupful of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly, without touching, to the ball, or until a little dropped into cold water will form a ball when rolled between the fingers. Pour three tablespoonfuls of the boiling-hot syrup slowly onto the whipped whites, beating constantly. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or of maraschino, or of sherry, or of noyau, or any other flavoring. When the Italian meringue is cold, add a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Do not let any liquid that has drained from the cream go into the mixture. Mold and pack in ice and salt for four hours.

IMPERATRICE OF RICE PUDDING GLACÉ

Boil a scant half cupful of rice in milk and water as directed for boiling rice, page 222, so each grain will be separate; but it must be quite soft, so boil it half an hour. This will make a cupful of rice when boiled. Whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth; mix into it four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of noyau or any flavoring desired; mix the rice lightly with the whipped cream. Turn it into a mold, and as quickly as possible pack it; leave it in the ice and salt for three hours.

This gives about a quart of cream.

PARFAITS OF CHESTNUTS, CANDIES, FRUITS, FRESH FRUITS, OR BERRIES

Make a vanilla parfait as directed, page 503. When the mixture is ready to go in the mold add a cupful of boiled chestnuts, or marrons glacÉ, or of mixed candied fruits cut into dice. Roll them in powdered sugar so each piece will be dry and separate and not sink to the bottom. Stir them in quickly and pack the mold as quickly as possible after the fruit is mixed in. When fresh fruits or berries are used crush the fruit; strain off the juice; add enough powdered sugar to the pulp to make it of the same consistency as the whipped cream. Pack in ice and salt for three hours.

BISCUITS GLACÉ

Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of water. Beat the yolks of four eggs; add to them three quarters of a cupful of syrup and a half cupful of cream or milk. Place the mixture on the fire and cook, stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl; place it on the ice, and beat it until it is cold and quite stiff and light; then fold in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in. For flavoring infuse a vanilla bean with the syrup, or add a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or of maraschino, or any flavoring desired, to the custard when it is taken from the fire. Put the mixture into paper boxes; sprinkle over the top some chopped browned almonds or some macaroons rolled to crumbs, and pack. Tin boxes containing a framework of shelves are made for holding individual ices while freezing, but a tin lard-pail can be used if necessary, placing a sheet of paper between each layer of boxes. Securely seal with butter the lid of the pail and pack in ice and salt for four or five hours.

MOUSSES

Whip a pint of cream very stiff; turn it onto a sieve to drain for a few minutes so it will be entirely dry. Return it to the bowl and whip into it lightly four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of curaÇao, of noyau, of kirsch, or of very black coffee, or a teaspoonful of any flavoring extract, or an ounce of chocolate, melted, and diluted with a little milk or cream, and flavor with a few drops of vanilla. When a liqueur is used for flavoring less sugar is needed than with coffee, chocolate, or essences. Turn the cream into a mold and pack it in ice and salt for four hours. Garnish the dish with small iced cakes.

FRUIT MOUSSES

Whip a pint of cream very stiff and drain as directed above. Mix with it a cupful of any fruit-pulp, the juice drained off and the pulp mixed with enough powdered sugar to make it of the same consistency as the whipped cream; a little cochineal added to strawberry or to peach mousse gives it a better color. A little vanilla improves the flavor. Mold and pack in ice and salt for three hours.

GOLDEN MOUSSE (Made without Cream)

• 3 eggs.
• 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
• ½ tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
• 1 tablespoonful of syrup with the yolks.
• 2 tablespoonfuls of syrup with the whites.

Beat the yolks smooth; add a tablespoonful of syrup, and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture makes a thick coating on the spoon. Remove from the fire, add the sherry and lemon-juice, and beat it until it is light and cold; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; pour into them slowly two tablespoonfuls of boiling syrup cooked to the ball (see Italian meringue, page 498); add the Italian meringue to the mixture of yolks, put it into a mold, and pack in ice and salt for four hours. This mousse can be flavored with a tablespoonful of kirsch, rum, or brandy instead of sherry. A few white grapes or candied cherries laid in the bottom of the mold before the mixture is put in, makes the dish more ornamental.

WATER-ICES

Water-ices are made of fruit-juice sweetened with sugar syrup. Sugar may be used, but the result is better with syrup. The liquid mixture should register 20° on the syrup gauge, but if one is not at hand, it can be sweetened to taste.

A good way of preparing it is to make a syrup of 32° and add enough fruit juice to dilute it to 20°. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and pack in salt and ice. The ices will not get so hard as creams. The following method may also be used:

ORANGE-ICE

Boil a quart of water and two and one half cupfuls of sugar for ten minutes; strain and add the juice of six oranges and one lemon. When cold, freeze.

LEMON-ICE

Add to the amount of sugar and water given above the juice of four lemons and one orange.

STRAWBERRY-ICE

To a quart of syrup made as given above, add a cupful and a half of strawberry-juice.

Ices may be made of any fruit used in the same proportions.

PUNCHES AND SHERBETS

COFFEE PUNCH

Mix together a quart of black coffee, a cupful of cream, three quarters cupful of sugar; freeze, and then mix in a half cupful of brandy or rum, and a half pint of cream, whipped, and let it stand half an hour. Stir it well before serving.

CAFÉ FRAPPÉ

Mix a quart of black coffee with a quart of cream and a cupful of sugar, or, better, sweeten with syrup. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and serve in glasses. A little brandy may be mixed in just before serving, if desired.

LALLA ROOKH

Make a vanilla cream No. 3. When it is frozen add a cupful of Jamaica rum. Turn the dasher until it is well mixed.

Allow a cupful of rum to each quart of cream. Serve in glasses the same as punch.

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