We remained in Mocha roads only two days, and then sailed, on the evening of the first of September, for Muscat. Owing to light winds, we did not pass the “Lesser Bab,” or the narrow straits of Babel Mandel, till three o’clock in the morning of the third, having drifted through them by the help of the current, in a night resplendently beautiful, and “in silence” passed we “through the Gate of Tears.”

Small fish being very abundant about the ship, the fishermen came in great numbers to throw their nets. They are of a circular form, and probably fifteen feet in diameter, loaded with small weights at the extremities, having a line fastened to the centre to draw it up; when thrown in it sinks gradually, the weights being light; when it has sunk to the depth of eight or ten feet, two divers jump overboard to drive the fish within the net; when they wish to draw it up, the weights close the bottom, and so secure all that are within its meshes.

Several divers were employed to find a sword which by an accident was lost overboard in eight fathoms, where the ship was anchored; two of them went down several times, and the greatest length of time either remained under water, was two minutes and five seconds. The ship’s bottom being very foul, two large gangs of divers were employed to cleanse it, which was thoroughly effected with scrapers and rubbers in the course of four hours, taking off oysters of the size nearly of the palm of the hand, and barnacles also of a very large size; this was done at an expense of twenty-five dollars. It had a very ludicrous effect to see so many venerable long beards, white, grizzled and black, thus employed, and constantly popping their bare heads and dripping beards out of the water.

We were many times in the day amused to see two very large fin-back whales fishing alongside, and under the bows and stern of the ship. The male has been a daily visiter in this harbour for upward of twenty years, and goes by the name of “Muscat Tom.” Formerly the cove was much infested with sharks, so that no person would venture into the water; but after he took possession, it was freed entirely of these pests, these sea-manduleens, (mandarins,) as the Chinese fishermen call them, in derision of the all-grasping land mandarins. A few years since he was missing for many days; the sharks ascertained by some means that he was “not at home” to pay particular attention to his visiters and invite them in; they therefore intruded upon his quarters, and not only banqueted upon his larder, which was filled with a great variety of fine fish, but actually invited and sore pressed some of the land bipeds to follow them; as they are equally as well pleased with flesh as with fish, the consequence was, the natives refused to join any other jamb or crush of the usurpers, and took a great dislike to aquatic parties. Happily at length, bold Tom returned, and every thing was restored to its proper order; for he had been like “Celebs in search of a wife;” and if he did not bring her home under his arm, he brought her under his fin, and “she was a helpmeet unto him;” and together they made a clear sweep of all the pests and incumbrances of their household, to the great joy of the land-animals, who again paid them frequent visits.

They have never been known wilfully to injure them; but occasionally when they were in full chase after a school of small fry who were playing truant within their submarine garden, they would unluckily upset the water carriage of their neighbours; however, as no offence was intended, an apology was deemed wholly unnecessary, and the natives acted a very wise part by not showing a useless resentment to their benefactors. Hourly the happy pair may be seen moving along very lovingly together “cheek by jowl,” occasionally sinking to the bottom, but not in search, as some may foolishly imagine, for——

but after something more useful; they are now seen rising with great swiftness perpendicularly half their length out of water, and with wide expanded jaws, catching all that comes within the vortex, filling the enormous sacks under their throats full to overflowing; and “thereby suck they in no small advantage.” Whenever the water is too shallow to rise in this manner, they dash forward with the rapidity of lightning, making a great breach; their ponderous body being thrown frequently entirely out of water. Many fishermen follow them to catch the fish they kill, but do not swallow; and by these means obtain during the day a great number. Muscat Tom and his wife are never known to sleep in the harbour, having sufficient sagacity to know, that they might be cast on shore by the current, and so caught napping. I observed that the same silly custom prevails here with the fishermen, as in many parts of the United States and elsewhere, by spitting on their bait to insure good luck. During our stay about two thousand Bedwin (Bedouin) Arabs arrived by order of the sultan; they were to be embarked on board the ships-of-war at the commencement of the northeast monsoon for Mombas, and other parts in Africa; they are a little darker coloured than the Arabs of Mocha, slender built, of good open countenances, and with fine sparkling eyes: the hair dressed in small-sized spiral curls, and profusely oiled, wearing a bandage around the head to confine it. They had no covering to the head, were naked excepting the waist, and were generally armed with spears.

There are a great number of small villages within a small distance of Muscat, wherever a tolerably level spot can be found between the precipitous rocks. The principal one of six, lying around the shore of Muttrah harbour, is the walled town of Muttrah, which is said to contain about eight thousand inhabitants, including a colony of Belooches, or Scindians, from the banks of the renowned Indus. They occupy a walled town within the walls of Muttrah, having sentries constantly posted at their only gate, which fronts the beach. The principal business transacted at Muttrah, is building and repairing of vessels. The poorer inhabitants of all these towns are very filthy and nearly naked, and not abundantly supplied with food, even of the meanest kind. They are very civil in their demeanour; but by no means deficient in curiosity. It is about two miles from Muscat to Muttrah. The passes between the rocks being very narrow, and exceedingly difficult, and the heat overpowering, the communication is kept up by means of canoes, neatly painted, having a temporary date-leaf roof, and a mat to sit on. Large droves of camels and dromedaries, from the interior, arrive daily, laden with wheat, dates, grapes, &c.

All religions, within the sultan’s dominions, are not merely tolerated, but they are protected by his highness; and there is no obstacle whatever to prevent the Christian, the Jew, or the Gentile, from preaching their peculiar doctrines, or erecting temples. The principal part of his subjects are of the sect of the Mahometans, called the Bee-asis: they profess to abstain from the use of tobacco, spirits, and all fermented liquors, and from every description of pomp and magnificence, in their dress, their houses, or their mosques. (The latter are very ordinary buildings, being destitute of all ornaments, and without minarets.) They do not grant pre-eminence to the descendants of Mahomet, but maintain that all who are Mussulmans by birth, are eligible for any employment in church or state. I was of the opinion, until I became better acquainted with these people, that they were more strict than the other sects, both in precept and practice; but their religious prejudices are broken down, the form only is left; and away from Muscat, or those who are not in the immediate employ of the sultan, and are therefore not in daily attendance upon his person, they use tobacco, as well as all intoxicating liquors, freely. This is frankly acknowledged by the sultan’s own officers. Several small craft arrived from the Bahrein islands, bringing a deputation from the principal ruler, requesting assistance and protection against the Wahabees or Joassames, who had again collected a large army, and threatened to take possession of their islands. It was said, they were in arrears for three or four years’ tribute-money, which they were first commanded to pay. A compromise was attempted by the deputies; but it was not settled when we left there. The vessels wore a striped flag, either of red and green or red and white.

The sultan possesses a very fine stud of Arab horses. I saw, at different times, about two hundred. He is the owner, as I was informed by the colonel, or commander of the Bedwin cavalry, of all the horses in Muscat, or the neighbouring towns. He was very desirous of sending to the President of the United States, two stallions and two mares of the best blood; but it was declined, because the ship was not of sufficient size to carry them, comfortably and safely, through the tempestuous weather usually encountered from the entrance of the Mozambique channel to the cape of Good Hope. The sultan’s horses are fed upon lucerne and dates; and it is said that most of the cattle, sheep, and goats, are fed upon dates and fish. The coarsest kind of grass, and rushes even, are difficult to be obtained at any price, and all the lucerne belongs to the sultan.

We found the mutton here very excellent, the sheep costing two dollars, and goats at various prices: fowls from one dollar to two and a half per dozen: bullocks, very fat and very palatable, at ten dollars each. But there were no hogs, turkeys, geese, or ducks. Fish was very abundant and cheap, and generally good flavoured. Both white and purple grapes were supplied us daily, and in profusion, by the sultan. The pomegranates were much superior to any I have ever seen. There were but few mangoes, the season for them having passed. The oranges were insipid, and tasted like the sweet lemon. Limes were very plentiful. The muskmelons gave out a fine perfume, but they were very tasteless. The dates, when not too ripe, had the flavour of a very sweet green chestnut. Pistachios, almonds, raisins, and kismisses, (or seedless raisins,) were plenty. Of vegetables, there were the long purple egg-plant, potatoes, onions, okra, and parsley. The date molasses was very good; wheat sold for one dollar and a quarter for one hundred English pounds; and a French brig was lading with it and jacks, for the Mauritius. The water, which supplies the shipping and the principal part of the inhabitants, is drawn from a very deep well outside the walls of Muscat, by a buffalo, up an inclined plane, and then brought in skins, on men’s backs, to the landing.

The sole object of our visit to Muscat, was to effect a commercial treaty with his highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, and to obtain a reduction of the duties and port-charges, heretofore paid on our commerce, so as to place it upon a footing with the most favoured nations. The sultan appointed an audience in the afternoon of the day subsequent to our arrival. I landed, in company with Captain Geisinger and Lieutenant-Commandant Shields, of the Boxer. We found the sultan, with his eldest son the governor of Burha, and ten gentlemen, composing his divan or council, sitting in the veranda, facing the harbour. The governor and the counsellors were sitting on chairs facing each other, and the sultan was seated about ten or twelve feet from them in a corner. He immediately arose, on our entrance, and walked to the edge of the raised floor, between the courtiers, and received us very graciously, shaking us by the hand. Here was to be seen no abasing crawling, and couching, and “knocking head,” like a parcel of slaves; but all was manly, and every one stood on his feet. The usual congratulatory compliments and inquiries were made; and coffee and sherbet were introduced. I was seated near to, and on the right hand of his highness; and we entered into a private conversation, through the interpreter, Captain Calfaun, relative to the object of the mission, (after having presented my credentials.) The sultan at once acceded to my wishes, by admitting our commerce into his ports upon the same terms of his most favoured friends, the British, to wit: by paying a duty of five per cent. on the cargo landed, and free from every other charge whatever, either on imports or exports, or even the charge of pilotage. When the fifth article of the proposed treaty was read, which related to shipwrecked seamen, he at once objected to that part of it relating to a remuneration for expenses, which would be necessarily incurred in supporting and forwarding them to the United States, and said, the article he wished so altered as to make it incumbent upon him to protect, maintain, and return them to their own country, free of every charge. He remarked, that it would be contrary to the usage of Arabs, and to the rights of hospitality, which have ever been practised among them; and this clause was also inserted, at his request. The sultan is of a mild and peaceable demeanour, of unquestionable bravery, as was evinced during the Wahabee war, where he was severely wounded in endeavouring to save an English artilleryman. He is a strict lover of justice, possessing a humane disposition, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He possesses just and liberal views in regard to commerce, not only throwing no obstacles in the way to impede its advancement, but encouraging foreigners as well as his own subjects.

The sultan of Muscat is a very powerful prince; he possesses a more efficient naval force than all the native princes combined from the cape of Good Hope to Japan. His resources are more than adequate to his wants: they are derived from commerce, owning himself a great number of merchant vessels: from duties on foreign merchandise, and from tribute-money, and presents received from various princes, all of which produce a large sum: a small tithe also is taken on wheat and dates, but more on houses or lands.

His possessions in Africa, stretch from cape Delgado to cape Guardafui: and from cape Aden in Arabia, to Ras el Haud, and from Ras el Haud they extend along the northern coast of Arabia, (or the coast Aman) to the entrance of the Persian gulf: and he claims also all the seacoast and islands within the Persian gulf, including the Bahrein islands, and pearl-fishery contiguous to them, with the northern part of the gulf as low down as Seindy. It is true that only a small part of this immense territory is garrisoned by his troops, but all is tributary to him.

In Africa, he owns the ports of Monghow, or Mongallow, Lyndy, Quiloa, (Keelwah,) Melinda, Lamo, Patta, Brava, Magadosha, (alias Magadshe,) and the valuable islands of Monfeea or Mafeea, Zanzibar, Pemba, Socotra, alias Socotera, &c., &c.

From Africa are exported, gum-copal, aloes, gum-arabic, columbo-root, and a great variety of other drugs. Ivory, tortoise-shell, rhinoceros horns, hides, beeswax, cocoa-nut oil, rice, millett, ghee, &c.

The exports from Muscat are wheat, dates, horses, raisins, salt, dried fish, and a great variety of drugs, &c., &c. Muscat, being the key to the Persian gulf is a place of great resort in the winter months, for vessels from the Persian gulf and the western parts of India.

The productions of Africa, of the Red sea, the coast of Arabia, and the countries bordering on the Persian gulf, may be had there.

Their vessels trade not only to the countries named, but also to Guzzerat, Surat, Demaun, Bombay, Bay of Bengal, Ceylon, Sumatra, Java, the Mauritius, the Comoro islands, to Madagascar, and the Portuguese possessions in East Africa; bringing Indian, African, and European articles.

The number of vessels employed on these voyages I was unable to ascertain with any degree of exactness: but no number named was less than two thousand; of this a very large proportion are small craft, having but a few ships and brigs. The naval force of the sultan is very respectable in point of numbers, and they are daily becoming better ship sailors.

The officers practise the lunar observations, and possess excellent chronometers. His force is sufficient to give him entire control over all the ports in East Africa, the Red sea, the coast of Abyssinia, and the Persian gulf. He has an abundance of sailors and although he has but a small number of regular troops, yet he can command any number of Bedouin (Bedwin) Arabs he may want, by furnishing them with provisions and clothing. This force consists of between seventy and eighty sail of vessels, carrying from four to seventy-four guns. I have added a statement which shows the names of his largest vessels, with the names of some of the smaller classes: the rate of each: where built, and where stationed in the month of October last, as given by Capt. Seydlin Calfaun, the sultan’s English interpreter and translator, and a naval commander.

Previous to the conclusion of the treaty, American vessels paid generally seven and a half per cent. upon imports, and seven and a half per cent. upon exports, with anchorage money and presents. The governor of the out ports claimed the right of pre-emption in both cases, and they resorted to the most nefarious practices to accumulate wealth.

The commerce of the United States, under the treaty, is entirely freed from all inconvenient restrictions, and pays but one charge, namely five per cent. on all merchandise landed, and it is freed from the charge of pilotage, as every port has pilots which are kept in pay by the sultan.

The currency of Muscat differs materially from that of the Persian gulf, or Africa; it is as follows, viz.: twenty gass-rauz-auz or rauhzee, make one mamoody; one hundred and forty-two pise or pesos, make one Spanish dollar; but it varies from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty;[†] three and a quarter Persian rupees make one Spanish dollar at present; two and a quarter Bombay rupees, (less five pise,) one Spanish dollar; two and a quarter Surat rupees, (less five pise,) one Spanish dollar.

The Spanish doublon is worth from fourteen to sixteen dollars according to weight, but more than fifteen dollars is readily obtained.

The weights of Muscat are as follows, viz.: twenty-four rials make one maund; the custom-house maund is eight and three fourths pounds; the bazar-maund is eight, eight and a fourth, and eight and a half pounds.