DEPARTURE FROM BANG-KOK FOR SINGAPORE—SINGAPORE—COMMERCE—BUGIS—MARITIME LAWS—DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE—STRAITS OF GASPAR—ISLAND OF JAVA—POPULATION OF JAVA—CLOTHING—DYING—STAMPING—FRUITS—BIRDS. Having brought my mission to a close in a very satisfactory manner, I was, on the evening of the third of April, invited to wait upon the praklang. The principal object of the visit was to reiterate his assurances, that every facility should be granted to American commerce, both in selling their cargoes, and in collecting their debts. And, furthermore, to state, that the presents the king and himself desired, should be returned with the ratified treaty. The following list was then given of the presents desired by the king and the praklang:— For the king: Five pairs of stone statues of men and women; some of the natural and some of the larger size, clothed in various costumes of the United States. Ten pair of vase lamps, of the largest size, plain glass. One pair of swords, with gold hilt and scabbards; the latter of gold, not gilt—shape of blade, a little curved. For the praklang: One mirror, (or pair of mirrors,) three cubits long by two broad, fixed in a stand, so as to form a screen; frame, carved and gilt; back, painted green. Soft, hairy carpeting, of certain dimensions; and some flower and fruit trees, planted, or in seed, with flower-pots. I then took leave, after many demonstrations of good-will. Some presents of the productions of the country, were sent to me, of very mean quality, and of inconsiderable value. On the fourth, the same boats being in readiness, which brought us to the city, in the evening we embarked, reached the ship in the morning, and the day following, made sail down the gulf. Our passage to Singapore (a distance of less than a thousand miles) occupied us till the first of May; the winds being very light and adverse, and constantly shifting between the south and southeast points. On the nineteenth, we made the group of islands, called the “Great Redangs.” On the twenty-second, when Pulo Brala was in sight, we spoke a Portuguese brig from Singapore, having on board an assistant Roman Catholic bishop for Siam, and a new consul, to take the place of Mr. Silviera; two days subsequently, we fell in with two small Cochin-Chinese junks, from the province of Nhiatrang, for Singapore, who sent a boat alongside, and asked most beseechingly for water, having been, as they said, destitute of any for the last six days, as they had brought only an earthen pot or two, for the supply of two vessels; being apparently wretchedly poor, a full cask was given them, after they had drunk to satiety. We successively fell in with Pulo Timoan and Pulo Aor. The vicinity of these islands is remarkable, as well as the southeastern point of the Malay peninsula, for piratical vessels, which are constantly cruising about in search of small trading vessels. On the thirtieth, we were swept by the violence of the current on the Romania bank, where we anchored in nine and three quarters fathoms of water; the following day we anchored about two miles from Singapore, near to our old friend, Captain Lambert, of his Britannic majesty’s frigate, Alligator. SINGAPORE. We called upon governor Ibbetson, who presides over this island, Malacca, and Pulo Penang, and were received by him and the Honourable Mr. Bonham with much hospitality and kindness; and subsequently, by the Honourable Sir Benjamin H. Malhin, the recorder, and lady. The situation of the governor’s house is upon a hill, which overlooks the town and the numerous islands in the straits. It is a most delightful situation; the approach to it, from the base of the hill, is lined on the right side, by nutmeg and other spice trees, &c., being the garden belonging to the government; but owing to some cause, they do not succeed well—the fruit does not arrive at maturity. The country in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, excepting in the direction of the new harbour, and a few other spots, is still in a state of nature, the soil giving an ungrateful return for the labour of the husbandman. Fruit succeeds well, even the delicate mangusteen; but wheat, coffee, and pepper have repeatedly failed, or the crops have About three leagues south of the settlement is an extensive chain of islands, very thinly inhabited by a race of savages. This open space of water is a continuation of the straits of Malacca, and is called the strait of Singapore; it is the high road of commerce between the eastern and western parts of Asia. The town of Singapore was founded by the British in 1819, and was then only the resort of fishermen and pirates; and was carefully avoided by the regular traders. The year following its occupation, it was visited by nearly seventy thousand tons of shipping, and of this amount, about one fifth were native vessels, belonging principally to the various islands in the Indian Archipelago. The establishment of this as a free port, most seriously affects the commerce of Batavia; it has drawn from it a most valuable native trade. The town is formed upon a regular plan, the streets intersecting each other at right angles; the streets and roads are in excellent order, the former having sidewalks. There is a great number of well-built houses of brick, which are stuccoed, and have tile roofs. Many of the houses have galleries or porticoes, and the grounds are prettily laid out with trees and shrubbery. On the less valuable streets, the houses and shops are built of wood, and covered with tile. On the outskirts, the houses are thatched, and more particularly those inhabited by the Bugis and Balinese, and the poorest class of Chinese. A good wooden bridge connects the peninsula or western part with the eastern. On this creek, or arm of the sea, into which empties a rivulet, are situated the principal warehouses; and here small vessels discharge their cargoes into very convenient and well arranged buildings. The quays are built of stone, with very convenient slips, and good cranes for landing goods. The island being situate within a degree and a half of the equator, no material change takes place—a perpetual summer reigns—flowers never cease blowing, and fruits are ever in blos I visited (in company with Captain Lambert, and the commander of the Peacock) the person who is styled the sultan of Johore, who ceded this and other islands to the British, for the sum of sixty thousand dollars, and an annuity of twenty-four thousand per year. He was formerly chief judge to Sultan Mahomet, of Johore. At his decease, he seized upon this part of his possessions. The sultan’s residence is surrounded by a high brick wall, having strong gates, guarded by soldiers. Within it is a new mosque; a hall of audience, neatly built; with many other houses of brick and thatch. We were conducted into the hall, which is used as a banqueting place also; and shortly after, we heard the loud breathing of a person who seemed in deep distress, endeavouring to ascend the staircase; finally the sultan made his appearance, and with great difficulty reached the centre of the room. I verily thought he would have died within the first ten minutes, of suffocation. He was most grossly, or rather beastly fat, and reminded us of the Anthropophagi, or men whose heads do grow beneath their shoulders; for neck, he had none. His eyes were enormously large, and they had the terrific appearance of having started from their sockets. He was truly a most disgusting and frightful object. After he was able to breathe a little freely, the usual compliments passed, and inquiries made, a feast was brought in, consisting of a great variety of articles, which were neatly The population, on the first of January, 1833, was ascertained to amount to twenty thousand nine hundred and seventy-eight persons. Of these, fifteen thousand one hundred and eighty-one were males, and only five thousand nine hundred and ninety-seven females. This motley group are made up of—one hundred and nineteen Europeans; ninety Indo British; three hundred native Christians; thirty-five Armenians; two Jews; ninety-six Arabs; seven thousand one hundred and thirty-one Malays; eight thousand five hundred and seventeen Chinese; one thousand eight hundred and nineteen natives of Coromandel; five hundred and five Hindoos; six hundred and forty-five Javanese; one thousand nine hundred and twenty-six Bugis, Balanese, &c.; thirty-seven Caffrees; two Parsees. The country and plantations contain seven thousand three hundred and sixty-two; the islands, which form a dependancy, of which there are about fifty, contain one thousand and seventy-two; total, eight thousand four hundred and thirty-four: which leave for the town of Singapore, twelve thousand five hundred and forty-four, exclusive of the military and convicts, which amount to about one thousand. Singapore is merely a mart for the exchange of merchandise for the products of Europe, India, and China, the Indian Archipelago, and of the neighbouring states—the imports from one part forming the exports to another. The total value of imports, for the years 1831 and 1832, was seventeen millions, eight hundred and nine thousand nine hundred and forty-eight sicca rupees; and the exports, fifteen millions, fifty-one thousand five hundred and seventy-three. Of this amount, nearly one eighth, or about nine hundred thousand dollars in value, was conducted by native vessels. The fixed exchange of sicca rupees, is two hundred and ten and a half for one hundred Spanish dollars. The currency is the Spanish dollar divided into cents. The common weight is the pecul, of one hundred and thirty-three and a third pounds, avoirdupois, divided into one hundred catties. The English gross hundred is also used, as well as the neat hundred. Salt, rice, and coarse, or unpearled sago, by the koyan, of about forty peculs. In the harbour, there may be frequently seen vessels from England, France, Holland, and other parts of Europe; from the Brazils, Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, New South Wales; from Arabia, and various parts of British and Portuguese India; from Siam, the Malay peninsula, Camboja, and various ports in Cochin-China, from the gulf of Siam to the gulf of Tonquin, (Tung-king;) from Macao, and various parts of the provinces of Canton and Tokien, the former being called the “Red-headed Junks,” and the latter the “Green-headed,” owing to their being distinguished in this manner by being painted with these colours; from Manila, Dutch and native craft from Java, Banca, and Bulembang; and by Malay craft only, from the river Campar, and other eastern ports in Sumatra. But the most important branch of the trade with the Indian islanders, is that conducted by the Bugis of Wajo, a state of the Celebes. The Bugis write and speak a different language from either of the other tribes of the Celebes, either of Macassar, Mandar, or Kaili. They have a code of civil and criminal law, referring to a state of government and society, of a patriarchal character; and they have also a code of maritime laws, dated in the year 1087, of the Hejera, (Hegira,) from which I have made some extracts. Wajo is situated nearly in the centre of the Celebes, and the Bugis live on the northern banks of an extensive lake, about twenty-four miles in breadth. The outlet of the lake is a river, which falls into the bay of Boni, and is navigable for boats of twenty tons. This people are the sole native carriers of the Archipelago, possessing an industry and enterprise far beyond the generality of the Malayan tribes. They carry on an extensive trade with all the ports in the Celebes; to Bonivati; to the eastern and western coasts of Borneo; to the islands of Lombok, Bali, Sumbawa, Flores, Sandal Wood, Ceram, Timor, the Arrows, New Guinea, &c. These bring gold-dust, bird’s-nests, tortoise-shell, camphor, paddy, bichos do mar, rattans, pepper, shark’s-fins, fish-maws, agar-agar, (sea-weed,) garro-wood, mats, pamore, iron, striped and Tartan cotton cloths, oil, tallow, mother-of-pearl, shells, &c., &c. Their cargoes are valuable, and vary from ten to forty thousand dollars. They take, in return, opium, British and Indian piece-goods, fire-arms, powder, Siamese iron-pans, &c.; Chinese coarse earthenware, &c., &c. MARITIME LAWS. Maritime laws were established (as stated in a pamphlet published The sixth treats on the freight of money. If the amount is one hundred and ten real, or less, it pays no freight; but if it exceeds that sum, it pays one half the charge on goods to the same place. The people of the prow (prahu) are not allowed to land if the master does not receive the full freight; and further, they must assist in bailing the water out and fastening the boat: nor are they to be freed from their charge till she is laid up for the season. The seventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth sections, treat on a mode of shares in trade and shipping, viz.:—Seventh: if the owner of the prahu send a man in charge of her, or if he let her to any one in the season, and furnish the turobatu and turomudi, together with crew, and arms and stores sufficient, and the boat should be damaged or lost, through the neglect of the crew, &c., in that case they must make good the damages, or loss of the boat: the shares of the turobatu and turomudi, and the expenses of the prahu, being first paid. Eighth: if the person who sails the prahu, also furnish the turomudi, turobatu, the crew and arms, then the owner and the captain go equal shares, after the turomudi, turobatu, and the expenses of the outfit, are adjusted. Ninth: if the owner of the prahu gives her in charge to a captain and the latter provide turomudi, turobatu and the crew, then the profit is divided into three equal shares; two are taken by the owner of the prahu, and one by the captain or person who charters her for the trip; but previous to the division of the profits, the shares of turomudi, turobatu and expenses of the prahu are always paid. Tenth: if the owner of the prahu furnish the turomudi, and the captain provide the turobatu, and both go equal shares in the ex The eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth sections regulating the amount of passage money, have, no doubt been framed principally, if not exclusively, in consideration of the practice of carrying slaves to distant parts for sale, since women are included, who otherwise never travel by water. The fourteenth and last section, lays down the principle of a court of native admiralty law, but the latter part is vague, as well as arbitrary; it is as follows: the captain is king while at sea, and his will is absolute law, from which there is no appeal; but if the turomudi, turobatu and the whole crew unite without one dissentient voice, they can overrule the will of the captain. The turomudi and turobatu hold the rank of prime ministers while on board the prahu. If any matter of difference arise between the crew, the captain, and turomudi, and turobatu, shall sit in council, and give judgment in the case; and if they should pass the sentence of death it must be executed; nor can any judgment given at sea be disannulled after the prahu is returned to port. If an affray or murder should take place among the crew, and the king’s son be involved, or if a freeman should kill a king’s son, in either case the captain is not held responsible on his arrival into port, by virtue of the power delegated to him by the king. We sailed from Singapore at midnight, on the eleventh of May, intending to pass through the straits of Rhio, and to touch at the Dutch port of that name in the island of Bintang. This port is the resort of American vessels; being excluded from Singapore, they are obliged to carry on their trade by means of coasting craft, ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA. On the evening we anchored in the straits, we discovered twenty-one piratical proas off the north end of Pulo Leat, and fourteen off the southern point; rockets were thrown up by vessels stationed midway between the squadrons, during the night. The ship being in readiness for action, it is probable they discovered lights from the battle-lanterns on the gun-deck, during the night, for in the morning only a few scattered vessels were to be seen. We were at length released from this unpleasant strait, which has shipwrecked so many lives, either by being drowned, or else murdered by the savages which infest them, by a fine leading breeze, passed safely into the Java sea, through the great group called the “Thousand Islands,” and anchored on the fifth of June in the unhealthy roadstead of Batavia, where at length we found the United States’ schooner Boxer, Lieut. Comdt. Shields, at anchor awaiting our arrival. Having received a very hospitable invitation from Mr. Forrestice, an American merchant, of the first respectability, to reside with him at “Fancy Farm,” his beautiful country-seat, three miles from the city, I accepted his kind offer and remained there for nearly two months. According to history, the Portuguese first visited Java in 1511, an ambassador having been sent there from Malacca. The Dutch arrived in 1596, settling first at Bantam, but The origin of its name remains still in great uncertainty. The northern coast is low, and generally swampy and unhealthy. The southern coast, on the contrary, consists of a series of perpendicular rocks, but, generally speaking, it is low and swampy; in some places suddenly rising into hills, as about Angier. The largest mountains have an elevation of from five to twelve thousand feet—they plainly show their volcanic origin. The western part is called the Sunda country; and the eastern the Javan, or the country of the true Javanese. They occupy nearly equal parts; different languages are spoken in the two districts, mixed a good deal with Malay, which is almost wholly spoken on the seacoast. Java, like most mountainous countries, is extremely well watered; but the size of the island precludes the possibility of there being any large rivers. The rain commences with the westerly winds, in October, is at its height in December and January, gradually subsides in March or April, and is succeeded by easterly winds and fair weather. During the rainy season, the whole of the extensive swamp, on which Batavia stands, is completely submerged, and the roads to the city are then nearly impassable; this is the season when reptiles abound, and moschetoes and insects bear sovereign sway. This is not the most unhealthy part of the year; but when the rains are subsiding, and expose an immense surface covered with vegetable matter, in a state of putridity, fevers, dysenteries, &c., &c., are then uplifted by every breeze, and borne on every wind. The principal harbour of the island is Surabaya, which is formed by the approaching extremities of the eastern part of Java, and the The population of Java and Madura, in 1815, amounted to four millions, six hundred and fifteen thousand, two hundred and seventy, of which ninety-four thousand four hundred and forty-one were Chinese; and the island of Madura contained two hundred and eighteen thousand, six hundred and seventy-nine. The population of the principal capitals was estimated as follows:—Batavia and its extensive suburbs have a circumference of about twenty-four miles, and contain about three hundred and fifteen thousand souls; Semarang, is calculated at twenty thousand; and Surabaya, at twenty-five thousand. TABLES OF EXPORTS. I herewith present a comparative statement of exports from Java, during ten years, according to the report of the customs:—
Java exports, besides the articles named, camphire from Sumatra and the Celebes. Edible bird’s-nests, beeswax, gold dust, precious stones, saltpetre, teak and other timber, and cabinet woods, tobacco, stic-lac, brass, European, India and China goods; tin, from Banka, &c.; benzoin, bichos do mar, rattans, die-woods from Borneo and Sumatra, sandal and other fine woods, pungent oils, horses, Bali clothes, elephants’ teeth, Japan, copper, leather, areca-nuts, cubebs, boots, shoes, &c.
Passing the straits of Sunda, not touching at Angier, there arrived at Batavia, in one year, ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine American vessels, containing eleven thousand one hundred and thirty-eight tons; and touched at Angier, eighty-two JAVA. To show the importance, in part, of American commerce, trading to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, I herewith subjoin the following statement of arrivals at two ports in Java. It appears, by the custom-house returns, that there arrived at Batavia, in one year, ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine American vessels, amounting to eleven thousand one hundred and thirty-eight tons; and that eighty-two American vessels, having a tonnage of twenty-seven thousand seven hundred and thirty-nine tons, touched at Angier during one year, ending the first of June of the same year. This latter statement does not show all the vessels that passed through the straits of Sunda, and from the China and Java seas. If to this statement is added, the great and valuable conveyance to Sumatra, the bay of Bengal, &c., who will say it does not deserve the fostering and protecting hand of the government of the United States? With the exception of two vessels, sent out on a special mission, the Peacock and Boxer, to Asia, &c., the visit of the Potomac to Qualah Battu, to punish an act of piracy and murder; with the hurried return of one or two vessels from the western coast of South America, which barely touch at Manila or Java for refreshments, this most valuable part of our commerce has been extremely neglected. EMBASSY TO THE EAST. We have also a valuable whale-fishery on the coast of Japan; and accounts often reach us of American vessels being cast on shore, on the islands and reefs in the vast Indian Archipelago, the crew being either murdered or made slaves, until a ransom is paid for them, unless they are relieved by some humane merchantman or foreign man-of-war: there is not a single armed vessel of the United States to relieve or protect them. Our vast commerce to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, most assuredly, should not be so overlooked, and left unprotected; at least, it deserves an occasional visit from our vessels of war, to Madagascar and the Comoro islands; the ports in east Africa, as far as Zanzibar and Mombos; to Mocha, in the Red sea, and the western coasts of India. They should also visit, once in two or three months, the native trading ports in Sumatra, and proceed as far as the western The totally unprotected state of our commerce, from the cape of Good Hope to Japan, deserves the immediate and constant protection and attention of the American government. The silkworm has never succeeded well, owing to the want of common information or gross negligence; therefore the chief material of Javan clothing is cotton. The favourite cloth made in the country is called batik, of which they make their sarongs, or loose clothes, which extend from the waist nearly to the ankles. If it is intended to ornament the cloth with one or more patterns, it is first steeped in cunjee, or rice-water, to prevent the colours from running; it is then dried and calendered; hot wax is then distributed over it, from a vessel, running through a small tube; the pattern is then formed by being traced, or etched over with a pointed stick. Every part which is intended to be white, is left covered with wax. It is then dipped once or more in the die, or else the die is placed on with a pencil. If two or more colours are intended, every part of the ground, excepting the new figure, is covered with wax, and so on till the whole figure is finished: the wax is then melted off in hot water. The figures have a velvet appearance, the edges of the different colours lessening in brightness. The only permanent colours are blue and scarlet, or red. They stamp palempores, or coverlids, with carved wooden blocks. The English imitation cottons, readily fading, have been brought into disrepute. The kris, or kreese, is universally worn; and the value and beauty of the weapon, are a test of the rank or wealth of the wearer. In full dress, two are frequently worn, and sometimes even four: it seems to be an indispensable part of their dress. It is an instrument more suitable for assassination than for war. Neither the nutmeg, clove, nor cinnamon, is indigenous; those which have been cultivated, are found to have thriven very well. But it does not comport with the views of the government to extend the cultivation of spices in Java: it is even in contemplation to destroy the rice plantations on Sumatra, in the neighbourhood of FRUITS OF JAVA. No region of the earth, says Marsden, can boast an equal abundance and variety of indigenous fruits as Java; but the Mangusteen bears the pre-eminence among Indian fruits, and, in the opinion of most foreigners, is superior to the cherrapayer of Lima, or any other known fruit; it suits the greatest diversity of tastes: is mildly acid, of a most delicate flavour, by no means luscious or cloying to the appetite; the shape is globular, the rind about a fourth of an inch in thickness, and it is as large as a good-sized apple; the shell is of a deep crimson or rather purple and quite brittle; disrobing it of its purple coat, there is displayed to view a snow-white pulp, distributed in three or four cloves; they are soft, very juicy, and occasionally touched with imperial purple, a colour once thought worthy of royalty only, and had it been known in ancient days, it would have been called the royal fruit; within this truly delicate pulp lies the seed. But in the opinion of the natives and many foreigners who have long resided in the East, the durian has the highest rank: the odour is peculiarly offensive to most foreigners, savouring of roasted onions: it has the appearance of bread-fruit, but the spires of the husk are larger: it is of a spherical shape, generally, and the size of a man’s head, some being larger; when ripe they are yellow, and crack like a ripe melon, at the stalk end: they are generally split into quarters, each one having several small cells, that enclose the fruit, which is covered with a pellicle or skin, and encloses a stone covered also with a skin; these are roasted and eaten, and partake of the flavour of chestnuts; the fruit is the size of a small egg, white as milk but sometimes tinged with yellow, and as soft as cream; it can only be eaten when at maturity; it grows on the body or greater branches of the tree, is the product only of the Indian islands, and does not grow in Siam or Cochin-China; it is always more expensive than any other fruit. I do not deem it necessary to name any other fruits, excepting the Of esculent vegetables which contribute to the food and sustenance of man, rice is the most important, of which it is said there are upward of a hundred varieties. Maize or Indian corn ranks next. They cultivate also wheat, the sweet and the American or European potato, the yam or ubi, and pulse in a great variety; the bread-fruit also, and most of the vegetables of colder climates, the seed being imported continually from the cape of Good Hope. Neither milk, nor any preparation from it, is prized by the natives; salted eggs are an important article of food: they are covered with equal parts of salt and ashes, or salt and brick-dust, made into a thick paste: it preserves them for many months. The chewing of areca-nut, as well as siri or betel-leaf, tobacco and gambir, is common to all classes. Every person who is able owns a siri-box, more or less valuable; opium is exceedingly coveted by them, and is both chewed and smoked; added to these is the disgusting practice of holding tobacco between the lips, and at one corner of the mouth, the saliva from it staining the lips, and running over the chin; they use, also, arrack, and an intoxicating liquor made from the gomuti palm. There are no metals or precious stones, but there are many minerals. They possess a fine breed of horses, strong, fleet, and well made, of about thirteen hands high—also the ox, buffalo, goats, some sheep, and the hog. Of wild beasts, there are several species of tiger, cat, the jackall, wild dog, rhinoceros or wild Javan ox, the wild hog and the stag, the rib-faced and axis deer, the weasel, squirrel, and a variety of monkeys. The turkey, goose, duck, fowls; also, two kinds of parrots: the peacock, falcon, carrion-crow, and the owl. The number of birds of distinct species are said not much to exceed two hundred. |