The coast of China being similarly situated to that of the United States, having a vast continent stretching from the south and northwest to the northeast, possesses a climate nearly of the same character and temperature. From the gulf of Tung-hing to the vicinity of Canton, it may well be compared to the coast stretching from the Mississippi to North Carolina, and the coast extending from Canton to that of Tartary, to the states from North Carolina to Maine.

The climate of Peking is salubrious, and like that of the middle and northern states of the union. The water is frozen from December until March. Violent storms occur in the spring; the heat in summer is great, and the autumnal months of September, October and November are the most pleasant part of the year. But my principal object is to delineate the climate of Canton and Macao, which lie between the latitudes of twenty-two and twenty-three north; the statement is copied from the Canton Register. I have added thereto several tables of meteorological averages. Canton is regarded by the Chinese, as one of the most unhealthy portions of their country, yet it is a more healthy climate than that of most other places, situated in the same degree of latitude.

The weather during the month of January, is dry, cold, and bracing, differing but little, if at all, from the two preceding months, November and December. The wind blows generally from the north, occasionally inclining to northeast or northwest. Any change to the south, causes considerable variation in the temperature of the atmosphere.

During the month of February the thermometer continues low; but the dry, bracing cold of the three preceding months is changed for a damp and chilly atmosphere: the number of fine days is much diminished, and cloudy or foggy weather of more frequent recurrence in February and March than in any other months. At Macao, the fog is often so dense as to render objects invisible at a few yards’ distance.

The weather in the month of March, as stated above, is damp and foggy; but the temperature of the atmosphere becomes considerably warmer. To preserve articles from damp, it is requisite to continue the use of fires and closed rooms, which the heat of the atmosphere renders very unpleasant. From this month the thermometer rises until July and August, when the heat is at its maximum.

The thick fogs which begin to disappear towards the close of March, are, in April, seldom if ever seen. The atmosphere, however, continues damp, and rainy days are not unfrequent; the thermometer at the same time, gradually rises, and the nearer approach of the sun, renders its heat more perceptible. In this, and the following summer months, southeasterly winds generally prevail.

In the month of May, summer is fully set in, and the heat, particularly in Canton, is often oppressive; the more so from the closeness of the atmosphere, the winds being usually light and variable. This is the most rainy month in the year, averaging fifteen days and a half of heavy rain; cloudy days, without rain, are, however, of unfrequent occurrence; and one half of the month averages fine sunny weather.

June is also a very wet month, yet, taking the aggregate, the number of rainy days is less than in the other summer months. The thermometer in this month rises several degrees higher than in May, and falls but little at night. It is this latter circumstance chiefly, which occasions the exhaustion often felt in this country from the heat of summer.

The month of July is the hottest in the year, the thermometer reaching eighty-eight in the shade, at noon, both at Canton and Macao. This month is also subject to frequent heavy showers of rain, and, like the month of August, to storms of thunder and lightning. The winds blow almost unintermittingly from southeast or south.

In the month of August the heat is generally as oppressive as in July, and often more so, although the thermometer usually stands lower. Towards the close of the month, the summer begins to break up, the wind occasionally veering from southeast, to north and northwest. Typhoons seldom occur earlier than this month or later than the end of September.

In September the monsoon is generally broken up, and northerly winds begin to blow, but with little alleviation of heat. This is the period most exposed to the description of hurricanes called typhoons, the range of which extends southward, over about one half of the Chinese sea, but not far northward; they are most severe in the gulf of Tonquin.

Northerly winds prevail throughout the month of October, occasionally veering to northeast or northwest; but the temperature of the atmosphere is neither so cold nor dry as in the following months, nor does the northerly wind blow so constantly, a few days of southerly wind frequently intervening. The winter usually sets in with three or four days of light drizzling rain.

November, and the following months, are the most pleasant in the year, at least to the feelings of persons from more northern climes. Though the thermometer is not often below forty, and seldom so low as thirty, the cold of the Chinese winter is often very severe. Ice often forms about one eighth of an inch thick; but this is usually in December or January.

The months of December and January are remarkably free from rain; the average fall, in each month, being under one inch; and the average number of rainy days being only three and a half. On the whole, the climate of Canton, but more especially of Macao, may be considered superior to that of most other places situated between the tropics.

Tables of observations on the thermometer and barometer for the year 1831. The averages at Canton are taken from the Canton Register. The averages at Macao, from a private diary, kept by Mr. Blettersnan.

The average of rain is the mean of its fall at Macao, during sixteen years, furnished by Mr. Beale. The number of rainy days and continuance of winds, are the mean of four years at Canton, taken from the Canton Register.

After remaining nearly two months at Canton, I took passage in a fine cutter, under English colours, for Macao, via Linting, and anchored in about twenty-four hours, within half a mile of the landing, at Pria Grande. Immediately on our nearing the harbour, a race took place among the amphibious damsels that inhabit the numerous sampans, tanka or egg-boats, which always lie within a short distance of the shore. Whole families inhabit them, and they are extremely encumbered with children, and the various articles used by the family. Their length is from twelve to eighteen feet, and the breadth is about one half the length. They have oval, sliding roofs, made of bamboo or mats, in two or three sections, which are extended occasionally the whole length of the boat. The occupants are extremely poor and miserable; they wear slight dresses, consisting of a long frock and trousers, of tan-coloured cotton. Except when heavy gales prevail, they rarely sleep on shore.

The town of Macao presents a pretty appearance from the roadstead. A spacious semi-circular bay is encompassed with hills, crowned with forts, convents, churches, and private buildings: the houses being kept well whitewashed, it gives the town quite a neat appearance. The streets are generally narrow, but they are exceedingly so through the Chinese bazar, &c., not exceeding, perhaps, six or eight feet. Most of the houses are built in the Portuguese style; but the Chinese houses are, with very few exceptions, dark, filthy, and uncomfortable. Macao is the summer residence of the foreign merchants of Canton; and it is reputed to be one of the most immoral places in the world. It is a rocky peninsula, about eight English miles in circumference; its greatest length is about three, and its breadth less than one mile. It forms part of the island of Heong-shan-nne, and was renowned, long before the Portuguese were settled there, for its safe and commodious inner harbour, and a temple consecrated to Ama. This settlement was formerly called Amangas, that is, the port of Ama; and first took the name of A-macao; but, in time, the first letter was suppressed, and the place has ever since been called Macao by the Portuguese, and Moon by the Chinese. The Portuguese had temporary abodes at this place, for about twenty years, by giving bribes to the authorities to erect huts, under the false pretext of drying damaged goods, until they were expelled by mal-conduct, in 1558, from Ningpa and Chinchew, when they induced the local officers of Macao, by their old system of bribery, to erect permanent dwellings.

The population from that time, rapidly increased; a temporary government was established, and a great influx of priests followed. In the year 1573, the wall across the isthmus was erected by the Chinese government, to prevent the kidnapping of children, as well as the sale of them by their wretched parents to over-zealous missionaries, who adopted every means, however infamous, to make converts to their religion, and to prevent the ingress of the Chinese; but it has been long disregarded by the latter. The wall is now in a ruinous state near the bay, being partly broken down by the encroachment of the sea; but still no foreigners are allowed to cross it; and all provisions must come to the gate, where a market is still held at daybreak.

It was supposed by the world, that Portugal exercised sovereign authority over Macao, till 1802, when a British military detachment arrived and offered to defend it, in conjunction with the Portuguese, against an apprehended attack from the French; knowing if they obtained possession of it, the British commerce with Canton would be destroyed: the Portuguese governor could not accept of their assistance, because the Chinese authorities would not permit it. In 1808, although a British force obtained possession of three forts, by the connivance of the Macao government, the Chinese authorities ordered them to quit their territories, or they would put a stop to the British trade at Canton, and drive the Portuguese from Macao, for suffering foreign troops to land there, without first obtaining permission of the emperor. Macao, therefore, is still part of the Chinese empire. This is acknowledged by the Portuguese, who still pay an annual ground-rent, which has varied at different times, but is now limited to five hundred taels. The Portuguese and Chinese are both governed by their respective laws and officers; but in case of collision between two persons of the different nations, the Chinese always dictate to the former in what way the affair must be settled. For fifty or sixty years, the Portuguese enjoyed the exclusive trade to China and Japan. In 1717, and again in 1732, the Chinese government offered to make Macao the emporium for all foreign trade, and to receive all duties on imports; but, by a strange infatuation, the Portuguese government refused, and its decline is dated from that period. In 1686, when all vessels of the Chinese empire were prohibited from navigating the southern sea, their shipping and commerce declined rapidly, till, in 1704, only two ships remained, which could neither be manned nor fitted out. This prohibition was, some time after, annulled. The vessels that belonged to the port in 1832, consisted of only fifteen, (being ten less than is allowed by the Chinese government;) their united tonnage being four thousand five hundred and sixty-nine tons. In 1833, the number had diminished to twelve. These vessels are principally chartered for foreign ports by Chinese adventurers, the owners generally being destitute of means to load them. The whole income from the customs, in 1830, was only sixty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-eight taels; and of this sum, thirty thousand one hundred and thirty-two taels were paid on one thousand eight hundred and thirty-three and a half chests of opium. The disbursements were: to the military, twenty-nine thousand six hundred and twenty-two; civil servants, twenty-four thousand four hundred and seventy; and to the church establishment, eight thousand seven hundred and thirty. The extraordinary expenses were forty-six thousand six hundred and twenty-nine, making a deficiency of about forty thousand eight hundred taels, which must be supplied from Goa. The population of Macao was estimated, in 1830, at four thousand six hundred and twenty-eight, viz.: one thousand two hundred and two white men; two thousand one hundred and forty-nine white women; three hundred and fifty male slaves; seven hundred and seventy-nine female slaves; and thirty-nine men, and one hundred and eighteen women, of different castes, who are all Roman Catholics. The Chinese population is estimated at thirty thousand. The European Portuguese consist of only sixty-two persons.

Macao is walled on one side, and has six forts; twelve churches, including the church and college of St. Joseph; five small chapels, and one Budhist temple: without the walls are three additional temples. There is one school, where children are taught to read and write correct Portuguese, (for this language, as spoken at Macao, is exceedingly corrupt;) and another, where the Portuguese and Latin grammar are taught. These are supported by royal bounty. There are an English opthalmic hospital, and a small museum.

I visited a Budhist temple, facing the inner harbour, situated in the midst of a number of large rocks, trees being seen growing out of their crevices. It was really composed of a number of small temples, seated on terraces, communicating with each other by means of steps cut out of the rock. All the buildings, wall, and steps, leading to it, are of hewn granite, very neatly wrought, and having ornamental work, finished in a masterly manner. This temple is a place of great resort for mariners; and near the landing, are various offerings of anchors, ropes, and spars. The devotees were constantly passing in and out from the temple to the priests’ houses, seated in a court. There were several priests in attendance, and others were lounging about the altars, with some old women, who appeared to be attached to the premises. This temple is called “Neang-ma-ho,” a temple of the “Queen of heaven.” The origin of it is said to be this: A number of Fokein fishermen were about sailing from that province, when a lady made her appearance, and told them they would all be lost in a storm, unless they deferred it for some days. They paid no heed to her advice, (excepting the crew of one boat,) and they were all lost in a “ta-fung-pao,” or “great tempest.” The lady embarked on board the remaining boat, when the storm had subsided, and safely landed near to the spot where the temple now is; from that moment she was never seen again. She is esteemed as holy, and is invoked as the protectress of all Chinese mariners.

Mr. John R. Morrison, son of the Rev. Dr. Morrison, here joined me, for the purpose of acting in the capacity of Chinese translator, interpreter, and private secretary, on the mission to Cochin-China and Siam, and to return to China from Singapore.