On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o’clock in the evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the eighth day after our departure from the bay.

At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours’ search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where, owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs only were found on the eastern side of the latter island, one hundred and fifty feet from the shore, boiling furiously up, through many fathoms of water. Early on the succeeding morning, Capt. Geissinger, Lieutenant Fowler of the marines, and myself, left the ship, on a visit to Forsaken island: we flattered ourselves, as we approached the island, that the grateful sound of many a murmuring rill, trickling down its steep and woody sides, was heard by us—but we also were doomed to disappointment; for, on landing, the sound was found to proceed from the singing of locusts, which had obtained undisturbed possession of the island, and were making sad ravages among the tender herbage. “No human footsteps marked the trackless sand.”

In reconnoitring between Forsaken and Crokatoa islands, we were struck with admiration at the great variety, both in form and colour, of an extensive and highly beautiful submarine garden, over which the boat was smoothly and slowly gliding. Corals of every shape and hue were there—some resembling sunflowers and mushrooms; others, cabbages from an inch to three feet in diameter: while a third bore a striking likeness to the rose.

The water was clear as crystal; not the slightest breeze ruffled its glassy surface: the morning sun, having just freed the noble peak of Crokatoa from its misty covering, shone forth with unusual splendour; the sides of the hills, to their lofty summits, were clothed with all the variety of fruit, forest, and flowering trees common to intertropical climates: large flocks of parrots, shaking the dew of night from their downy pinions, were seen wending their way towards the palm-trees, in search of daily food; and monkeys in great variety were commencing their lively gambols amid the wild-mango and orange groves:—again, gazing in delighted wonder beneath us, we viewed the superb scene of plants and flowers of every description, glowing in vivid teints of purple, red, blue, brown, and green—equalling, in richness and variety, the gayest parterre. A variety of small fish, spotted, striped, and ringed, possessing every colour and shade, were sporting in these regions of unsurpassed brilliancy and beauty. It was, apparently, a great gala day; for they were revelling in great ease and luxury, playing all sorts of gambols in their bright sea-homes, unconscious of danger, and taking a full measure of enjoyment, in their unrivalled retreats. That nothing might be wanting to complete this gay scene of Nature’s own choosing, shells of great variety and shelves of coral, possessing every variety in colour, studded the bottom; the superb Harpa, with its ribbed sides and straw-coloured dress, slightly tinged with red and black; the Cyprea or Cowry of almost every variety, covered with an epidermis or thin membrane to protect its highly-polished surface; and many others, which might rival the most delicate porcelain in whiteness and smoothness: there lay the warlike Chiton, encased in his black coat-of-mail, ready for battle, or adhering to the shell of a large Triton—the latter having closed the entrance to his castle by a thick marble valve, which Nature had provided as a protection against an enemy, or a barrier against the rough beatings of a boisterous sea. Above, beneath, around us—all was in harmony.

A solemn stillness—broken only occasionally by the diving of a huge turtle, the harsh note of the wild seabird, the singing of locusts, or the shrill cry of the tiger-cat—reigned every where in the narrow strait which separates the two islands. Disappointed in receiving the so-much-needed supply of water and provisions, we weighed anchor the same evening for Angier, in Java, and before daybreak, came to in its roadstead. On our passage across, about midnight, we observed a large ship bearing down for us. Immediately all hands were piped to quarters—the battle-lanterns lit, fore and aft—the gun-deck cleared of hammocks—the two-and-thirties loaded with round and grape shot, and run out—the slow matches lighted and placed in their tubs—the marines ranged along the quarter-deck, and the powder boys stationed from the magazine to the gun-deck—the surgeons in the cockpit were displaying a fearful array of bandages; and in five minutes the ship was ready for action. As the vessel neared us, we found her to be no enemy, but his Britannic majesty’s ship Magicienne, from Batavia, bound to Bengal. So we parted as we met—friends. May we never meet as enemies!

Day had scarcely made its appearance, ere the ship was surrounded with Javanese canoes of all sizes, having outriggers to prevent their oversetting, bringing fruits and vegetables, fowls, eggs, goats, musk-deer, civet-cats, coloured and green doves; monkeys in great variety; parrots, Java sparrows, having slate-coloured plumage and pink bills, hats, shells, &c., for sale. Their strange mode of speaking the English language, afforded much amusement to the whole crew: “Capetan, you buy me fowl? Ib gotty fivety ten fowl, Capetan, he be great biggy one; you buy Japa sparrow? Ib got uby, uby, yam, yam, plenty, plenty, bery good; egg fowl, Capetan; fowl egg, Capetan, he be largy one, biggy, biggy, all same as dat larangy, (pointing to a basket of oranges,) I gib you Capetan, one hundred, five, ten, egg, (meaning one hundred and fifteen,) sposey Capetan you gib me one dollar and one quart;” (one dollar and a quarter.)

All this was spoken with great rapidity and amid forcible gesticulations. They were not at all abashed in asking a double price for their articles, and stale eggs; the latter, they always endeavoured to impose on us as new and fresh. The greatest curiosity I have yet met with, is the musk-deer; it is in height nine and a half inches, and twenty inches in length, from the top of the nose to the tail; has large protruding round eyes, moderate-sized ears and a sleek, grayish, dun-coloured coat, with beautiful slender legs and small hoofs. In its shape it is a perfect deer, but has no horns. I have, at times, seen this animal possessed of two scythe-shaped teeth, projecting from the upper jaw and placed near the extremity of the mouth, pointing recurvated backward. When irritated it would cut deeply with them and strike with great rapidity.

No covering beyond that of a waistcloth, was worn by the Javanese boatmen, and but an additional breastcloth, by the females. An odd-looking hat, which is in general use throughout the eastern seas, is worn by both sexes; it is made of bamboo or palm-leaf, is impervious to water, and may be likened to an old-fashioned painted dishcover, divested of its brim. Both sexes chewed the areca-root to excess, and were much disappointed that we could not supply them with opium, though the penalty inflicted on them for its purchase, is slavery for life. We paid a visit to Mr. Vogel, the commander of the Dutch fort, and met with a very hospitable reception.

The Camprongoe village of Angier contains about fourteen hundred inhabitants, composed almost entirely of Javanese and Malays; it is built on low ground, verging on a swamp, in the midst of palm-trees. The houses, excepting perhaps a dozen, are of bamboo, roofed with palm-leaf, and enclosed by a slight paling of wood. A bamboo bridge, thrown across a ditch, conducted us to a very neat fortification; the parade-ground on each side being shaded by rows of trees and having a very pretty garden tastefully laid out and full of flowers, in front of the commandant’s house. During the two days which we remained, a marriage-festival was in progress; when the seven days of public rejoicing were finished the parties were to be united. These festivals only take place among the children of the rajahs, or very rich men. Every person who chooses to join the procession, is feasted at a house provided for that purpose, during the festival. Were it not for the presents of rice, bullocks, &c., sent by the friends of the betrothed, the expense would be too burdensome; as many hundreds attend, even from the neighbouring villages.

The procession consisted of ladies and gentlemen, seated in separate carts, persons on horseback and on foot, dressed in the gayest habiliments which they could procure, carrying a great number of flags of various colours and devices; and children dressed in yellow satin trousers, their faces painted yellow, with large curved eyebrows and fantastical caps. Great numbers of noisy instruments accompanied the motley group, and the whole village was in an uproar, which ended only with the setting sun. As we were passing the house of feasting, a servant was sent out to solicit the honour of our company; we entered the premises through two bands of musicians, who played on about thirty instruments, which being struck by small hammers, made a tinkling sound.

The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,) were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we were gratified with the whole entertainment, and partaking of a cup of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching.

Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water.

Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in abundance, but neither flour or bread could be obtained. Several monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy. Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard, from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time, she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself, having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail, during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,) she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed away in her pouch.

On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner solicited permission to enter; it stood shivering in the doorway, dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,) and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation.

We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca. After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor, in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on which the islands seem to sleep in bliss—islands, in which the spice and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or encountering one of those tremendous typhoons for which the northern coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of the monsoons, is so notorious.

Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted by a strong current, until two o’clock in the morning of the thirtieth of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the mist, discovered to us mount and point CalavitÉ, on the northwestern extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the island of Luconia or Luzon.

Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our “dead reckoning;” notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhoea prevailed among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams for bread.

Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer, despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer’s boat was rowed by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels, small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers.

Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita, (visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable American house of Russell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river.

The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference and nearly free from dangers; the scenery is of a varied character: mountains and hills are discernible in the distance, from Marivales, sweeping in a circle around the bay, till the most lofty form the eastern boundary of the island, the shores of which are washed, on one side, by the ocean, and on the other, by the waters of Lago de Bria; from the lake flows that rapid steam, the Pasig, (pronounced Parseek,) into the bay, at the distance of twelve miles, watering a rich extent of low land.

The city of Manila lies on the south side of the river, and is enclosed by dark stone-walls, having a broad and deep ditch; so high are the city-walls, that only the red tiled-houses, and the towers and domes of churches, can be seen in the distance above them. On entering the city, you are struck with the stillness and gloomy appearance of the streets, interrupted only occasionally by the march of soldiers going to relieve guard in this garrisoned town, the rumbling of a solitary carriage, the tinkling of a bell, announcing the approach of the host on its way to administer the last religious rites to a dying sinner, or a distant convent-bell summoning the religious to prayers. The streets, although narrow, are kept clean, and have good “trottoirs;” the great square in the centre of the city contains a fine bronze statue of Charles the Fourth of Spain, erected by his dutiful and affectionate son, Ferdinand the beloved, so says the inscription on the pedestal; three sides of the square are occupied by the cathedral or church of the “Immaculate Conception,” the consistorial palace, and the palace of the governor-general. Manila contains about ten thousand souls, and is garrisoned by two regiments of soldiers; at Binonda, St. Cruz, and the villages in the vicinity, three more are stationed, besides three thousand placed in different parts of the island. Of these, twelve hundred only are Europeans, the remainder being Indians; they are well clothed, fed, lodged, drilled, and paid. The houses are built in a quadrangular form and are very massive, having covered balconies, from the second story, projecting over the street; they are generally spacious, well-furnished, and neat; the ground-floor, called the “bodega,” or “godown,” is occupied as a magazine for goods, as a stable, and for other purposes. Instead of lattice-work or glass, the mya shell is used, set in frames about four inches square; it affords a very agreeable light, equal to that passing through ground-glass; the windows thus formed extend round the house, can be slid at pleasure, and render the dwellings light and airy; the second story is of thin brick, or light framework, and plastered; the roof is covered with tile, the framework being so constructed that it will readily yield to the shock of an earthquake, (which is of very frequent occurrence,) without being easily thrown down. A very large proportion of the buildings, in the towns and villages, are in the native style, being for the most part, owing to the low swampy ground, erected on piles from three to six feet high, and are constructed with the bamboo or palm-leaf; the interior is much exposed to view, as the windows made with palm-leaf or bamboo lattice, occupy three fourths of their fronts and are let down at daylight.

Within them may be seen, in the evening, the Holy Virgin, surrounded by lights and placed in a glass-case, dressed in a gay attire, holding in her arms the infant Saviour; around her are seen the whole family, at prayers, before retiring to rest, thanking her for the blessing bestowed during the day and imploring her guardianship from all enemies during the night; at other times, the inmates are chewing buyo or areca nut, &c., smoking cigars, (of which they are immoderately fond,) combing and oiling their long thick hair, or thrumming on the guitar and singing. Sewing is but little attended to, as their dresses are simple and their children are permitted to run about naked. They cook twice daily on the outside of their houses; their fare consisting principally of rice and some fruit, with an addition perhaps of a fowl, some fish or locusts. All their washing is done at the river, where they bathe daily. Every man among the Indians owns a game-cock, and he frequently loses all he has, even to his waistcloth, in that barbarous species of gambling, cock-fighting; the birds are armed with scythe-shaped spurs, and one or both expire, generally, during the first few rounds. The immense number of licensed cock-pits which are found in every town and village, serves to show the prevalence of the passion for this amusement.

Manila is connected with the towns on the right bank of the river, by means of a single bridge, built very neatly of stone, the arch of which was thrown down a few years since by an earthquake, and is rebuilt of wood. The commerce of the city is carried on at the right side of the river, at Binondo, St. Cruz, &c.; that side having the advantage of numerous natural canals or branches, from the main river, on which are situated extensive warehouses, so that the cascoes, which are large boats, having moveable or sliding roofs, in sections of about six feet in length, can land their goods immediately at the wharf without exposure to the weather.

The city of Manila, within the walls, was computed by a census taken in 1818, to contain a population of six thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, exclusive of the military. Buildings which rent from five to fourteen hundred dollars per annum, in Binondo, contiguous to the river and its branches, will not in Manila, rent for more than one fourth of that sum, owing to its want of water communication, yet the government have very inconveniently placed the new and extensive custom-house close to the city-walls. There are about seven thousand Chinese settled here; all the Europeans, including the military, do not exceed twenty-five hundred; the rest are Indians, who, were they aware of their strength, might easily wipe from the face of existence, the handful of Europeans and other foreigners, who hold them and their lands in subjection.

Provisions are so low in value, that it is said four dollars will furnish a labourer, in rice, &c., sufficient for his yearly consumption. Labour is exceedingly low; the wages for a servant-man, being from one to one and a half dollars per month. Rice has been sold here for three quarters of a dollar the caban of one hundred and thirty pounds: at this time it is double that price, in consequence of vast quantities having been shipped to Canton. A person possessing the immense sum of twenty-five dollars is considered, among the Indians, as “passing rich,” and immediately quits labour to keep shop in the street, with a moveable stall, or in front of his bamboo-hut; the goods usually consist of burgo, alias areca nut, and betel-leaf, well prepared with liquid chunam for immediate mastication, cocoa-nut oil, a little coarse pottery, wooden shoes, palm-leaf hats, and perhaps a few mats. A great number of the shops contain only the first-named article, and the stock in trade may possibly amount to the sum of two rials, (twenty-five cents;) here they sit cross-legged, during the whole day, or, desiring a change, sideways, on a gridiron bamboo-seat. I have frequently feared the whole stock in trade, would be ejected into the street by their insatiable masticatory powers, but occasionally seeing the havoc they are making, and fearful of becoming bankrupts, they thrust a corner of one of the handspike cigars (which are in common use) into their mouths and finish off the evening with it.