Between the collecting of the specimens and their final disposition in a well-arranged cabinet, a good deal of mechanical work is necessary, involving a skill and dexterity which can be thoroughly acquired only by practice.First Preservation of living Specimens.—LarvÆ, pupÆ, or imagoes, intended for rearing purposes, must be kept alive, and are best placed, after capture, in tin boxes of various sizes, according to the number of specimens to be put in each and according to the size or nature of the food plant, etc., on or in which the specimens are found, and of which a quantity must always be taken home. For larger tin boxes those known as “Seidlitz powder boxes,” described and figured below, which can be made to order at any tinner's shop, are well adapted, and smaller tin boxes of a convenient round form can be obtained of the watchmaker. The collector will find it advisable to take with him on his longer jaunts a larger tin collecting box as well as the smaller boxes, and for this purpose nothing is better than a good botanist's collecting can or vasculum. All tin boxes used for entomological purposes should be tight, and the cover should so fit that it neither drops off too readily nor closes too tightly. LarvÆ of Lepidoptera and TenthredinidÆ should be placed in a box with a quantity of the leaves of the plant on which they were found. LarvÆ, especially of Coleoptera, found in the earth or in decayed wood, should be placed in a box filled with such earth or wood, so as to prevent shaking or rattling about. LarvÆ found in roots or stems of living plants can generally be reared to maturity only if the whole plant with a quantity of the surrounding soil is taken home, and for this purpose the large collecting box, just mentioned, is very useful. Most Coleopterous or other larvÆ found under bark or in solid wood can be reared only if large sections of the wood are obtained and the larvÆ are full grown or nearly so. This holds true, also, of species breeding in seeds and with most leaf-mining species. The greatest difficulty is experienced with carnivorous Coleopterous larvÆ, and care should be taken with such not to inclose two or more specimens in one box. Most larvÆ die quickly if placed in an empty box, and this is especially true of predaceous species; so that it is always advisable to pack the box with moist soil, decaying wood, leaves or other similar substance. Aquatic larvÆ should be carried in tin boxes filled with wet moss or some water plant, for, if placed in corked vials with water, they die quickly.Killing Specimens.—Specimens not intended for rearing should be killed immediately after capture unless for each specimen a separate vial or box can be provided. If a number of miscellaneous insects are put in the same vial the stronger specimens will, in a short time, crush or otherwise injure the more delicate ones or the predaceous species will devour any others they can master. But even where the specimens are killed immediately the following rule should be observed: Do not put large and small specimens in the same vial, but provide a larger bottle for the larger specimens, and one, or still better, several, smaller vials for the medium-sized and very small specimens. The importance of this rule is recognized by all experienced collectors.
There are several methods of killing insects, each having its own peculiar advantages and drawbacks.
Alcohol.—The use of alcohol will, on the whole, prove the most satisfactory method of killing Coleoptera, many Hemiptera, some Neuroptera, and larvÆ of all sorts. Only the best quality of alcohol should be used, but it should be diluted with from 30 to 40 per cent of pure water, the greatest care being taken to keep the alcohol as clean as possible. During the collecting a mass of dÉbris and dirt is apt to be thrown into the bottle, and when this is the case the alcohol should be changed even during short excursions. At any rate, upon the return from the excursion, the specimens should be at once taken from the bottle and washed in pure alcohol in a shallow vessel. The larvÆ and other material intended for permanent preservation in alcohol should be transferred to suitable vials and the material to be mounted cleansed with chloroform or acetic ether and then prepared for the cabinet. If it is inconvenient or impossible to mount the Coleoptera, etc., soon after the return from the excursion they should be washed, dried, and placed in pill boxes between layers of soft paper, or they may be replaced in a vial with pure alcohol. On longer collecting trips, lasting several days or weeks, specimens will keep thus very well, provided they are not shaken up, and this can be prevented by filling the empty space in the vial with cotton or soft paper. If the bottle is a large one and contains many large specimens the alcohol should be renewed three or four times at intervals of eight or ten days; otherwise the specimens are liable to decompose. Small and delicate specimens, if they are to be kept in alcohol, should be treated with still greater care. Upon the return from the excursion they should also be cleaned in pure alcohol and placed in small vials into which a very few drops of alcohol, just sufficient to keep the contents moist, are poured. The vial should be corked as tightly as possible and the specimens will keep pretty well for an indefinite time.
The drawbacks to the use of alcohol are: 1st, that all hairy specimens are liable to spoil; 2ndly, that all Coleoptera with soft integuments spread the wing-cases apart if kept too long in it. The advantage of the alcohol is that it is the simplest and least troublesome fluid for naturalists traveling in distant countries who are not specialists in entomology. Specimens killed in alcohol are also less liable to be attacked by verdigris when pinned than those killed by some other method. Rum, whisky, or similar strong alcoholic liquors may be used as substitutes where no pure alcohol can be obtained, but are not especially to be recommended.
see caption
Fig. 89.—Chloroform bottle
with brush.
Chloroform and Ether.—Killing with the fumes of chloroform or ether (sulphuric or acetic) or benzine, or some other etheric oil, is often practiced and advocated by those who, for any reason, dislike the use of alcohol or object, on account of its poisonous nature, to the use of cyanide of potassium, and they are of especial value in the case of butterflies and moths, Hymenoptera and Diptera. “A small and stout bottle of chloroform or ether, with a brush securely inserted into the cork (Fig.89), will be found very serviceable. A slight moistening through the air net will stupefy most insects caught in it, and facilitate their removal to the cyanide bottle; while a touch or two with the wet brush under the head and thorax, will kill the more delicate specimens outright, without in the least injuring them. Another way of using chloroform is by means of a small, hollow tube passed through the cork, what is called jeweler's hollow wire answering the purpose. The liquid evaporates more readily in such a bottle, and I altogether prefer the first mentioned. Some large insects, and especially female moths, whose size prevents the use of the ordinary cyanide bottles, are difficult to kill. With these, fluttering may be prevented by the use of chloroform, or they may be killed by puncturing the thorax or piercing the body longitudinally, with a needle dipped in liquid cyanide, or oxalic acid. A long bottle with a needle thrust into the cork may be kept for this purpose; but the needle must be of ivory or bone, as those of metal are corroded and eaten by the liquids. * * *
“For killing small and delicate moths which have been bred, I find nothing more handy than chloroform. They may be caught in turned wooden boxes which are kept by every druggist; and a touch of the chloroform on the outside of the box immediately stupefies them. It has a tendency to stiffen them, however, and they are best set immediately after death.”
see caption
Fig. 90.—Bottle with
liquid cyanide.
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Fig. 91.—The Cyanide bottle
with paper strips to give support
to the insects.
A piece of heavy blotting paper or heavy cloth soaked with chloroform or ether or benzine and placed at the bottom of a jar or bottle makes an excellent killing bottle for large-sized insects. For smaller specimens the collecting vial should be half filled loosely with narrow strips of soft paper, upon which a few drops of the liquid are poured, not so much, however, as to wet the paper. While collecting, the vial must be kept closed as much as possible. Some collectors prefer chloroform, others ether. If this method of killing is practiced with the necessary care, there is no objection whatever to it; the specimens are not wetted as they are in alcohol, and remain cleaner than those killed by any other method. The drawback is that the substances mentioned evaporate very rapidly and have to be renewed even on short excursions. On account of this great volatility, one can never be certain that all the specimens in the collecting bottle are dead after a given time and there is always some danger that one or the other of the hardier insects may regain activity. What mischief such revived specimens are capable of doing, many collectors have experienced to their sorrow. Another disadvantage of these volatile substances is that if used in too large quantities they will, in delicate specimens, especially beetles, cause an extension of the soft ligaments between the head and prothorax or between the latter and the mesothorax, and thus bring the specimen into an unnatural position, or cause the head, or head and thorax to drop off.
Cyanide of Potassium.—The method of killing which, of late years, has found most favor with collectors, is the use of cyanide of potassium. For killing large sized specimens they are simply put in what is now universally known as the “cyanide bottle.” This may be constructed as follows:
see caption
Fig. 92.—Pocket
cyanide bottle.
Take a 2-ounce quinine bottle, or still better a shorter bottle with a wide mouth; break up a quantity of cyanide of potassium into pieces of convenient size (about a cubic centimeter); put these pieces in the bottle so that they form an even layer at the bottom; mix in a convenient vessel a quantity of plaster of Paris with water just sufficient to make the mixture semifluid and then pour it over the cyanide so as to cover this last to a depth of about 5 millimeters. The bottle is then left open for an hour or two until the plaster is thoroughly dry. The walls of the bottle are then cleansed from particles of the plaster which may have splashed on them, and the bottle is ready for use. If not used too frequently, especially in warm weather, it will last for an entire year or longer. Bottles or vials of different sizes can be prepared in the same way, and a very small cyanide vial which can be carried in the vest pocket will be found most convenient for use on all occasions. Fig.92 represents a medium-sized chemist's test tube, converted into a very convenient cyanide bottle, in which, however, a cotton wad has been used to keep the poison in place. When the collected specimens have been removed from the bottle the latter should be carefully wiped clean with a piece of cloth or paper. The surface of the plaster soon becomes dirty and, on account of the hygroscopic property of the cyanide, more or less moist, especially during warm weather. The cyanide bottle is, therefore, not well adapted for the killing and temporary preservation of small and delicate specimens. This difficulty can be altogether obviated by placing a circular piece of blotting paper, cut to neatly fit the interior of the bottle, on the surface of the plaster. This can be renewed once a week or so, or oftener if it becomes necessary. It will frequently be advisable, also, especially in the collection of Diptera, Hymenoptera, and other delicate insects, to put a strip of blotting paper partially round the inner side of the bottle. This will absorb any moisture which may gather on the inside of the bottle and which would otherwise wet and injure the specimens. The accompanying figure (Fig.93) illustrates a bottle arranged as described above. A similar result is attained by some collectors by partially filling the bottle with narrow strips of bibulous paper to support and separate the insects as shown at Fig.91.
see caption
Fig. 93.—The cyanide bottle
with blotting-paper lining (original).
For delicate specimens, also, the collecting bottle may consist of a test-tube of about the size of Fig.92. This is half filled with loose, thin strips of soft white paper. A piece of cyanide about the size of a pea is then wrapped carefully in paper and so placed in the middle of the strips that it can not come in contact with the sides of the glass. Some prefer to pin the paper containing the cyanide to the lower surface of the cork. The latter should be rather short and tapering toward its lower end. It is longitudinally perforated through its center by a round hole just large enough to insert a goose-quill, which is cut straight at the lower end and obliquely at its upper end. By means of this goose-quill the specimens may be introduced into the bottle without taking off the cork. This form of cyanide bottle lasts for only one day's collecting, except in cold weather, and in very warm weather it is advisable to take two prepared bottles along, so that the first used can be stowed away as soon as the cyanide begins to moisten the paper strips. Most insects are quickly killed in such a bottle, but some Coleoptera must be left in for five or six hours, while others resist death for a still longer time. This is especially true of the Coleopterous families CurculionidÆ, TrogositidÆ, and TenebrionidÆ.
Submersion in alcohol will prove a satisfactory method of killing these or other beetles with similar vitality.
Other Agents.—Prof. E. W. Claypole has found the use of benzine or gasoline very cheap and satisfactory for killing Lepidoptera, as the largest are at once killed thereby without injury to their scales. (Can. Ent., xix, p. 136.) He squirts it onto the specimen within the net or in the open air by means of a druggist's dropping tube. Hot water kills rapidly and leaves the specimens in good flexible condition for mounting. The heads of large insects may be held for a few moments in the water, while smaller specimens should first be thrown into a corked bottle and the bottle submitted to heat. Where the laurel grows its bruised leaves may be used in place of cyanide; they kill less quickly. The leaves of the Laurel-cherry (Prunus laurocerasus), a plant commonly grown in England for screens and hedges, are also used for this purpose.
Some collectors, with indifferent olfactory sense, moisten the cork of their boxes with creosote. Its killing power lasts for several days. A few whiffs from a cigar, when nothing else is at hand, will also kill many of the more tender insects.Special directions for different orders.—A few brief directions for the special treatment of different orders may be given. Certain Coleoptera, notably those of the Curculionid genus Lixus, are covered with a yellowish pruinosity resembling pollen, which is of an evanescent nature, so that if the specimens are collected and killed by the ordinary methods, the pruinosity is completely lost. To preserve the natural beauty of such species it is necessary to put each specimen alive in a small vial and to kill it at once by means of a lighted match held under the vial for a few seconds. In pinning or otherwise mounting the specimen it should not be handled between the fingers.
Many Hymenoptera and Lepidoptera, especially species with yellow markings, if kept for any length of time in a cyanide bottle, will become discolored, the yellow changing to reddish, and hence such insects should not be left longer than necessary in the bottle. If care is exercised in this respect, no danger of discoloration need ordinarily be feared. The chloroform collecting bottle may be used with these insects if discoloration is anticipated. All the more delicate insects, including Hymenoptera, Diptera, the smaller Lepidoptera, and the Neuroptera, require special care in killing. Large numbers should not be thrown into a killing bottle together, and plenty of bibulous paper should be kept in the bottle to prevent moisture from accumulating and wetting and ruining the specimens. It is frequently advisable to pin Diptera, especially the hairy forms (as the Bee-flies), in the net and transfer them at once to a cigar box containing a sponge moistened with chloroform. When the collecting shears are used, the insects are always thus pinned at once, which is, in fact, the only method of securing them. This is also necessary in the case of many Lepidoptera. Delicate Neuroptera may be killed by the use of the cyanide bottle, or, preferably, placed at once in a vial of alcohol, as these insects, in many instances, cannot be kept securely if pinned or mounted. Large Lepidoptera, as the Bombycids, may be killed by pouring benzine, naphtha, or chloroform over the thorax and abdomen. These substances evaporate rapidly and do not appreciably injure the vestiture of the insects. Some collectors, in the case of butterflies, seize them dexterously between the thumb and finger, and give a sharp pinch on the sides of the thorax. This will prevent the fluttering of the insect when transferred to the cyanide bottle, and, if carefully done, the scales need not be rubbed off. It is objectionable, however, because the thorax is distorted and subsequent anatomical study interfered with, and, in the case of moths, should never be practiced, as the thorax affords important characters used in classification. Orthoptera may be killed by the use of the cyanide bottle but should be transferred at once to the vials of alcohol. If placed in a cyanide bottle, especially in the case of Locusts (AcrididÆ), they are apt to exude colored juices from the mouth, so that the specimens become soiled. Hence the use of vials of alcohol is preferable, and these insects should never be thrown into vials containing delicate insects of other orders. Plant-lice, together with the plant which they infest, should be placed at once in vials of alcohol, and specimens of the Aphides, representing all the forms present, should be mounted on slides for microscopic examination. The fixed forms of Coccids, comprising the majority of the species, require no special treatment, and the leaves, twigs, or bark on which they occur may be pinned at once and placed in the collection. The free forms are treated as in the case of plant-lice.