MR. BROWN'S LETTER TO THE MARSHALLS.

Mr. Brown soon became acquainted with a number of leading Mormon Elders who in formed him more concerning the history of the peculiar people, among whom he was a visitor. The sights in and around the city were viewed by him, and he had time to inspect the most important buildings and places of interest. According to promise, he wrote a letter to the Marshalls giving some of his impressions of the country and the people, and his epistle is here reproduced in full:

DEAR FRIENDS:

"I am at length in the land of the Mormons in the city of the Saints by the dead sea of America. I have been well received, and am pleased beyond measure with what I have seen and heard.

"It is a wonderful West. Our country as a whole surpasses the inexperienced conception of Europeans, and places their cramped-up districts, and tiny, although beautiful nations, in the position of play-things when compared with the vastness of America—rustic, rough, and rude as even its oldest places appear. Then what shall we say of the wide West—until recently an unknown region—with its variety of natural wonders, its wild mountains, appalling peaks and lonely valleys, industries, mines of wealth, gorges, streams, plains! It is grand, notwithstanding its development is yet in its infancy. Its possibilities for future greatness are inconceivable even to the hardy pioneer.

"We came over the Chicago Rock Island and Pacific Railway from Kansas City, via Denver. The State of Kansas, with its beautiful eastern cities, and its wonderful plains and new and thriving settlements in the western part, was presented to our view from the comfortable palace coaches of this well-equipped road.

"From Denver, where one sees the Rocky Mountains, cloven with fantastic ravines, and horrible chasms, dressed with rough and shaggy woods, and capped with everlasting ice and snow, we proceeded to Pueblo, and thence over the Denver & Rio Grande Railway, to Grand Junction, Colorado. It is no exaggeration to say that the mountain scenery along this route is the most magnificent in the world; while the mid-continent region, which this road traverses, is doubtless the most picturesque portion of our country. Very appropriately, this road, with its western connection—the Rio Grande Western—has been named, 'The Scenic Line.'

"Having passed Grand Junction, we soon enter Utah, and find ourselves in a country of bluffs, cliffs, wonderful formations, and deserts, which become wearisome in spite of the novelty of the scene. Nothing, however, could be more romantic than the worn battlements and rocky tablets, between which, for miles and miles, the road winds its way. Nearing Castle Valley, we attained a higher level, where the cliffs came nearer and were more precipitous, with the spaces between more green.

"We are climbing towards the heights of the Wasatch—the western bulwark of the Rockies just passed. Ahead is the Castle Gate, 'the most inspiring as a single object, of all the marvelous scenes between the plains and the Salt Sea.' We soon entered fairly into the Spanish Fork Canyon, the sides of which are neither rough nor cliff-bound, but, rather, are steep and rounded, covered with soft walls of greenery, and groves of aspen and oak. Nearing the valley, we beheld Mt. Nebo, over-topping other pyramids of the Wasatch range. Westward lies the volcanic mountain ranges and the arid deserts of Utah and Nevada; but at our feet, stretches forth a lovely valley, with the fresh, clear waters of the Utah Lake in the center.

"We passed on through miles of fertile farmland, and between us and the pretty lake were fine meadows, upon which sleek herds were grazing. A semi-circle of Mormon settlements lie at the feet of the encompassing hills, except upon the western side, where no water is found. Provo is the largest of the cities in this valley. A short ride, and we crossed the summit of a low mountain range, separating the valley, we had just passed over, from the the Great Basin. The train followed along the Jordan river which empties the waters of the Utah Lake into the Great Salt Lake. Salt Lake Valley lies before us, with the city of the Saints, and the wonderful saline sea to the north, the peaks of the Wasatch, to the north and the east; and about us, on every side, the marks of industry, thrift and prosperity, set in a framework of surprisingly beautiful scenery.

"The valley is extremely pretty when seen at the best season of the year. In autumn, when Nature, by the early frosts, has delicately tinted the leaves with brilliant hues, the mountains and the hillsides are very attractive; the contrast between the vegetation of the hills and the colors of the valley, is an interesting feature in the panorama spread before the delighted observer.

"Utah contains a population of about 200,000; it has an area of 85,000 square miles, much of which is mountains. The Great Salt Lake is about forty by ninety miles in size, and contains several islands. Fish abound in the numberless small streams that flow from and through the picturesque canyons of the Wasatch.

"The sterility of the country was removed by a system of irrigation from the mountain streams which fertilized the earth, causing it to yield in abundance, and to 'blossom as the rose.'

"When you remember the population and the area, it will readily appear that there is great room for more inhabitants, and yet it must be remembered that only a small portion of the ground is fit for cultivation, the greater part being wild hills or sandy desert. The numerous valleys are like fruitful oases in a wilderness of rugged mountains, which latter serve as reservoirs for the snows of winter, that supply the summer rills with water.

"The valley, sometimes called the Great Basin, has an elevation of from four to five thousand feet, being surrounded and intersected by mountain ranges, which rise from five to seven thousand feet above the level of the basin. The Wasatch range extends along the east side of the valley; at its western base is a narrow strip of land, the most fruitful in the Territory. In many other parts the soil is alkaline and sterile. In other districts there are fertile basins, with soil of good quality, yielding in places from fifty to ninety bushels of grain to the acre. There are immense deposits of coal, iron, and other valuable minerals, among them being gold, silver, copper, zinc, lead, sulphur, alum and borax. Salt works have been established in different places along the shores of the great lake, the water of which contains about 16 per cent, solid matter, 97 per cent, of which is common salt. In the chasms and ravines of the mountain streams are found cedar, pine, quaking asp, oak and maple, but timber is difficult of access. This, however, is compensated for by the immense deposits of coal in the neighborhood, and in the Territory itself, and by the railroad facilities the Territory now enjoys for shipping timber from Oregon and California.

"The hardships of early times, which are now well-known in history, have given way to prosperity, and the hidden resources of the hills and dales are appearing to bless the children of the Mormon pioneer. Thriving towns and cities extend from north to south, from east to west, over the whole territory, and Mormon colonies are planted along the Rocky Mountains, from Mexico in the south, to Canada in the north. Their industry is proverbial; they view the building of cities, hamlets and villages as a divine call, taking hold of the often perilous labor with the invincible determination born of religious zeal and duty.

"Salt Lake City has a population of about fifty thousand, but it must not be understood that all these are Mormons. The tide of prosperity that has come to this people, has brought with it thousands of citizens from all parts of the United States, until the population is as mixed, in a religious sense, as that of any of the states of the Union; churches of all the Christian denominations, the halls of the agnostic, the synagogue of the Jew, and the gathering place of the infidel, are alike represented.

"Among the buildings of interest, in Salt Lake City, is the tabernacle, a remarkable edifice, and the great center of attraction. It was completed in 1870, is an oval-shaped building, with a major diameter of 233 feet, and a heighth of 70 feet, having a huge dome-shaped roof resting on pillars of sand stone. It seats about nine thousand people, and contains one of the largest organs in the world. Here services are held every Sabbath, when the Elders of the Church, leaders of the people, instruct the gathered thousands in the religion which, to my mind, is the only scriptural on now preached, and certainly the only one among them all having practical life and vitality. It contains the germs of power that will leaven the whole religious world, scoff and deride as they may.

"The famous temple, erected at a cost of several millions, begun in 1853, now nearly completed, is built of gray granite, with walls more than six feet in thickness; It has a length of 200 and a width of 100 feet; the main walls rise to a height of 100 feet; there are three towers and numerous minarets, on each end of the building, the center east tower being surmounted by a figure representing an angel blowing a trumpet, proclaiming the restoration of the gospel in the latter days. The cap-stone was placed on this tower, amid great rejoicing, in April, 1892, when it was decided to finish the building, and dedicate it in April, 1893, the occasion of the annual conference of the Church, which is also the anniversary of its organization (April 6th, 1830) in New York State, with six members. This great building is of elegant design, grand proportions and unique pattern, a marvel of beauty, strength and solidity. Temples, of which there are several in the Territory—one in Logan, one in Manti, one in St. George—are designed for use in performing holy ordinances for the living, and vicarious work by the living for the dead, as you understand the faith of the Saints, and as Elder Durant has often referred to and explained in his conversations with you.

"A Stake is a division of the Church, presided over by a council of three High Priests, and in Utah generally corresponds geographically to the division of counties, while in other states and territories, it often embraces larger districts. The stakes are divided into wards, in each of which a bishop and his two counselors exercise supervision. These again are subdivided into districts where presiding Elders or teachers look after the interests of the Church members. There are thirty-three stakes of Zion, with something over three hundred wards. Each stake has a general assembly building, while each ward, besides, has a structure for religious worship. The Assembly Hall, erected at a cost of $90,000, dedicated January 9th, 1882, erected near the temple, is the meeting place for the Salt Lake Stake of Zion. Much like a church in appearance, it is 120 by 68 feet in size, seating three thousand people, and is one of the most conspicuous buildings in the city. The walls are built of rough-hewn granite taken from the same quarrie that has supplied material for the temple.

"There are many other fine buildings in the city, besides natural attractions, as, for instance, Garfield Beach, where bathing is the pleasantest in America, the Hot Springs, the Warm Sulphur Springs, the gas wells, etc. There are seventy miles of electric street railway, and a hundred miles of streets. These avenues are 132 feet in width, having in many places rows of shade trees on either side. Salt Lake City covers as large an area as many other cities with five times its population, and, excepting the business part, is largely composed of villas.

"Other principal cities are Ogden, Logan and Provo. Ogden, thirty-seven miles north of Salt Lake, is the railroad city of the territory, and shows the results of the thrift and industry of its inhabitants on every side. Many beautiful natural attractions surround it—its warm springs and rugged canyons being admired by all who see them.

"But I have not space in this already long letter to describe the mines, the manufacturing, industrial and commercial establishments which abound in this city and in the territory. Neither can I take time to more than merely refer to the schools, public and private, and to the educational facilities of the people. It has often been asserted that the Mormons are opposed to education, but the schools in every hamlet and city bear witness to the falsity of the assertion. No territory or state of the Union, of equal age with Utah, has finer school buildings, or is more advanced in matters of education, and to the Mormons may be ascribed the honor of having built and heartily supported the system that has made this possible.

"I see on every side among the Mormons, people who are honest in their convictions, who have a living faith and put their faith and teachings into practice, who are industrious and thrifty, kind to the poor, sober, virtuous. There are no signs of abject poverty anywhere in this city, and much less among the hundreds of country settlements; idleness is discountenanced by the Mormons, until among them as a people there are no beggars, tramps or drones.

"A few more words, and I will not tire you with more this time. While, of course, I do not agree with all the doctrines of the Church, I consider the people as a whole are fair minded, and broad in their views. I have met the chief men of the Mormon Church, and have had a number of pleasant interviews with them. I find them men of grave and reverend demeanor, very religions in thought and deed, but not given to cant. They have not the sanctimonious airs that are so frequently noticed in religious ministers. Wilford Woodruff is the present head of the Church, the fourth man who has occupied that position—his predecessors having been: Joseph Smith, Brigham Young and John Taylor.

"Mr. Woodruff is several years beyond four score, but is hale and hearty, very affable in manner and interesting in conversation. He is a man of sturdy build, with a kindly, honest, intelligent face, and a manner especially winning and agreeable. You know that I have contended that the leaders of this movement were insincere, but when I met them and talked with them, when I marked the unwavering faith of that good, venerable old man, I changed my mind. In some things, he may be mistaken, but he is an honest worshipper of God.

"I must not close without remembering Mr. Durant to you. He was overjoyed to find his family all well upon his arrival. During my stay in this territory, I have remained at his home a part of the time, and have been very kindly treated.

"With love to all, I am your friend,

"WALTER T. BROWN."